The cruise that Britt and Mia take on the MV Aphrodite mirrors one that I went on a

few years ago. I chose it because the ship visited a number of destinations that I hadn’t

been to before and which sounded very interesting. I specially wanted to do the Panama

Canal transit as I love locks and canals. I used to work in a building on the banks of

Grand Canal in Dublin. Obviously a very different type of canal but the mechanics are

the same and I always enjoyed watching the barges passing through the locks.

At the time of the cruise I wasn’t specifically thinking about a novel set on board, but as

they days passed by and I indulged my favourite habit of people watching (as well as

island hopping) I knew that it could make an engaging setting for a book. And although

I’m Irish and my main characters are always Irish, I enjoy bringing them to different

parts of the world too.

There were two distinct parts to the cruise - before the canal transit and afterwards. The

first part, in the Caribbean, was relaxing and fun; the second, visiting Central America,

was active and interesting. Unlike Britt and Mia who travel for St Valentine’s Day, I

went over Christmas. This meant that I spent Christmas Day at sea, stuffing myself, but

the following day being very energetic and walking through a rain-forest!

The lovely thing about the islands in the Caribbean are that they are all unique. When

you see holiday pictures of white beaches and blue seas you automatically think that each

island is just a caricature of the same thing. But they are all very different, with their own

distinct cultures and traditions and I love every one of them.

Having visited Panama, Costa Rica and Guatemala, I’m very keen to return one day and

spend more time exploring the region. Each country has a unique history and culture

and my trip fired up my interest in those countries. (In fact Panama has a cameo

appearance in my next novel, Stand By Me.) I’ve been to Mexico before but it’s a place I

definitely want to return to, even if Acapulco isn’t on my list.

I hope you’ve enjoyed the trip with Britt and Mia and that the following extracts from

their diaries add to your experience!

You can check out pictures from my cruise in the gallery on my website:

www.sheilaoflanagan.com

OK, so I’m finally here. With Mia. Who’s totally into the whole thing and wanting to

get completely involved in all the cruise activities which I’ll definitely be avoiding.

Asking Mia seemed like a good idea at the time but I did it in a panic and now I’m

beginning to wonder if it’ll turn out to be a disaster. She wants to have a great holiday

but this isn’t a holiday. It’s work. I’m not sure she appreciates that yet.

Mind you, I do have to keep reminding myself that it’s work too because it hasn’t felt

like it so far. The flight over was wonderful - I could get used to business class travel, I

really could. There’s something very soothing about turning left when you board the

plane. (Listen to me! It’s so far from turning left I was brought up! When we were small

it was camping holidays to Cork or Waterford. And then when we were a bit older and

our parents splashed out on the holiday abroad it was a cheap-o package trip to

Benidorm. Great at the time though.)

I was a bit miffed when Mia took out her copy of The Perfect Man on the plane. I’d love

to know how the personalised copy that I sent her ended up in a swimming pool before

she got around to reading it. Even though the whole publication thing came about

accidentally I feel very proprietorial towards it now and the idea that she couldn’t be

bothered to read it straight away actually hurt me. I had to tell myself that what’s

important to me isn’t necessarily important to her. And she does have different

priorities, of course she does. But still….I think she liked it. I saw her sniff near the end.

There again Mia’s always been the emotional one in our family so it would’ve been a

disaster if she didn’t!

It’s a pity there wasn’t a bit of time to explore Barbados. I’ve never been here before and

it was just wonderful to step off the plane and feel the warm, tropical breeze after the

cool London air. Bliss, actually. Made me think we should’ve come a day or two sooner

and lie out on one of the long, white beaches.

I would’ve liked to explore Bridgetown too, the capital of Barbados and the port where

we boarded the Aphrodite. I read a bit about the island before we left - it seems that the

Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive here and they gave it its name (which

means The Bearded Ones). The name doesn’t refer to the indigenous people, the

Arawaks and Caribs, but to the fig trees on the islands which apparently look like they

have beards. I didn’t get to see any fig trees on the way from the airport to the cruise

ship but I wasn’t really looking for them. I was in a bit of a daze actually, worrying about

my workshops. I’ve never done this before and it’s all very well for other people to say

that everything will be fine but what do they know?

After the Portuguese, the Spanish turned up but having infected the local population

with various diseases they then headed off to explore other islands. There were an

amazing amount of Spanish explorers in the 15th and 16th centuries including Cortez,

Balboa, Magellan and, of course Columbus. I once read that Cortez’s major

accomplishment was conquering the Aztec Empire….Not exactly an accomplishment in

my view! These days I guess he’d be hauled before a War Crimes Tribunal.

In 1695 the English arrived. They began to colonise the island, enslaved the population

and introduced sugar cane and tobacco as crops. Thankfully slavery was abolished in

1834. Barbados gained full independence from Britain in 1966, although it remains part

of the Commonwealth.

These days the Portuguese, Spanish and English ‘invaders’ are tourists. According to

some statistics I looked at before I came, over 550,000 tourists visit every year and the

same amount of cruise ship passengers visit annually too. I’d love to come back and see

more of the island some day but….with Mia or on my own? Maybe I’ll know after a

fortnight!

Dinner was a bit strained tonight - we were bounced into sharing our table with another

passenger, a man named Leo something-or-other. He’s very reserved. A bit odd to see a

single man on a Valentine’s Cruise. I wonder what he’s looking for. I wonder will he find

it….

Oh my God this is just so amazing! When I got up this morning and went out onto our

private balcony (private balcony - awesome!) I couldn’t get over how gorgeous

everything was. The sea is so blue and the island so green! Absolutely wonderful!

Of course I’m gutted that Allie isn’t here with me. Obviously she wouldn’t appreciate

the cruise and she’d drive Britt nuts but it’s like a part of me has been ripped away. I’ve

never been away from her before so maybe that’s making it twice as difficult. Maybe I

wouldn’t feel so bad if I was being Britt’s PA in the frozen wastelands of Siberia or

something but I feel doubly guilty because everything here is so very perfect. I choked up

when I was talking to her on the phone but she sounds really happy with James and

Sarah. I hope so. I miss her loads.

Britt is being pig-headed about the whole work thing. So pig-headed that she’s insisted

on staying on board the ship while I take a trip around the island. At least she didn’t

object to me going - at first I thought I might have to keep her company but thankfully

she was happy to be on her own working on her talk or lecture or whatever. I had to

meet to the Cruise Director for her before I could leave the ship. She’s doing her

control-freak stuff about having everything exactly how she wants it etc. etc. Fortunately

Steve, the director, seems to be a very easy-going guy and he has Britt’s demands well

under control. Actually he seems to think she’s being quite reasonable. Maybe she is. I

wouldn’t know what it’s like to be some kind of diva person. I’ve never been the one to

make demands. Usually it’s the other way round - people are demanding things of me!

Anyway, I eventually finished up with Steve (he’s quite cute actually) and had the rest of

the day free. I thought about trying to hire a moped and do my own exploring but I only

like doing that when I’m not tied to time. So the organised tour seemed a better bet

although I had a quick re-think of that when I got on the bus which was hot and steamy.

Leo, the guy from dinner last night, was sitting beside me. I though he was nice yesterday

but he was in a foul mood today so no fun to talk to. Reminded me a bit of Britt the way

he kept himself to himself.

I enjoyed the trip, even though it was a bit long. According to the driver, Grenada is one

of the Windward Islands and it’s just 100 miles north of the Venezuelan coast. It’s one

of the smallest independent countries in the western hemisphere and most of the centre

of it is taken up with forest and foliage.

It’s also known as the Spice Island because of its fragrant spice trees. We were brought to

a nutmeg factory and I bought some ground nutmeg but apparently I could just as easily

have bought cinnamon, ginger, mace or cloves because the island produces all of these.

We went off to see an old spice plantation afterwards. Or maybe it was a rum plantation.

I’ve forgotten. I think they were offering free shots of rum there so maybe that’s what it

was. I was distracted by meeting the oh-so-glamourous model, Pippin, and her family

who’d got it into their heads that Leo and I were an item. As if!

Apparently Grenada was another one of Christopher Columbus’s discoveries. He

named it Concepcion but later Spanish sailors were reminded of Andalusia, in Spain,

and decided to change the name to Grenada. Naturally, hearing that made me think of

Alejo and wonder what he was doing in Granada, Spain, at that very moment. One day

I’ll think of Alejo and I won’t want to cry. But I can’t imagine when that day will

come…..

Anyway, the French then changed the name to La Grenade and the British changed it

again, to Grenada. The Brits and the French struggled for possession of of it for a

number of years (just as they did with other Caribbean islands, like St Lucia) but

eventually the Brits were the ones who came out on top. It was ceded to them 1783 and

still remains part of the Commonwealth.

I’m too young to remember, but in 1983 US President Ronald Regan authorised an

assault on the island. There had been a coup previously in which a Marxist regime with

links to Cuba had seized power. Regan said there was a perceived threat to American

medical students on the island and gave the go-ahead for US forces to go in. Even

though I don’t remember the coup I did quite enjoy the Clint Eastwood movie,

Heartbreak Ridge, which was based on the invasion and was partly filmed on the island

itself. I watched it on DVD with Alejo in Guatemala one night….Dammit, I have to stop

thinking about him. I really do.

OK, so after the tropical bliss of Espada Island we’ve ended up in Curacao which is

almost like being back in Europe. One of the guys from my old legal firm worked here

for a few years as an advisor to an international bank so I knew quite a bit about it

already because George used to tell us a lot about his time there.

It’s located in the Netherlands Antilles, just 12 degrees north of the Equator and was

another pit-stop for the exploring Spaniards and Portuguese. (Alonso de Ojeda, a

lieutenant of Christopher Columbus, arrived there in 1499. There is a general belief

that the name was originally Corazon - the Spanish for heart - but that the Portuguese

adapted it.) The island was taken from the Spanish by the Dutch in 1634 and for a long

time afterwards the French, Dutch and British fought over it. But eventually the Dutch

regained control and their influence can be seen all over the island.

Walking into Willemstad, the capital, reminded me of visiting my Dutch publisher in

Amsterdam. The buildings are all designed in the same was as Amsterdam’s but the big

difference is that they are painted in bright tropical colours which makes it look so

pretty. Apparently it’s a UNESCO world heritage site. It’s certainly one of the quaintest

places I’ve ever been. It’s divided into two sections (Pundda and Otrobanda) and

connected by the Queen Emma pontoon bridge which is also known as the Swinging

Old Lady becuase it swings apart to allow ships access the port. It was a bit wobbly but

fun to cross and it’s lit up at night.

There’s lots of good shopping on the island with some excellent designer boutiques but

that was a bit wasted on me because I’m a hopeless shopper. I can’t prowl around for

hours looking for the perfect dress or blouse or whatever. I’m more of a grab something

and run person. However I decided to buy Mia a decent watch because the prices are

great and because her own isn’t working properly. I know she was a bit surprised and I

had to dress it all up as saying that it was overtime for all the work she was going to be

doing for me because for a minute I thought she wasn’t going to take it. She’s very proud

and independent but I know that she doesn’t have much money - how could she, raising

Allegra all on her own without a cent in help from that bastard Alejo. She won’t talk

about him (well, I understand that, I don’t like talking about my failed marriage!) but I

really do think that she should track him down and make him support Allegra. It’s just

not right that men can walk away from their responsibilities leaving women to pick up

the pieces. And although she’s doing a great job it must be a terrible strain sometimes.

Then again, Mia loves Allegra to bits and seems to quite like being a mum. I don’t know

if I’d have the patience let alone the ability to raise after a toddler by myself but maybe

it’s different when she’s your own child. Mia has been buying t-shirts from all the

different ports which is a nice thing to do. I know she misses her but I hope she’ll think

that the trip was worth it in the end.

It began to cloud over quite a bit while we were having a drink at one of the pavement

cafes there so we decided to make tracks back to the ship. Instead of crossing the bridge

we got a ferry back to the other side of the town. There were a few people on board

chatting together in the local language which is called Papiamentu (it’s a Creole dialect

also spoken on Bonaire and Aruba, other Netherlands Antilles islands). You could be

greeted with ‘bom bini’ when you arrive in Curacao - it means ‘welcome’.

One of the things that sold doing this trip for me (or at least made me feel that I might

be able to bear it!) was the idea of transiting the Panama Canal. Mia laughs at me

because of my interest in mechanical things but I find them fascinating. James, our

brother, had a Meccano set when he was small but I was the one who enjoyed playing

with it the most. I built two working cranes with little motors and I was really proud of

myself. Mia broke them one day. I never quite forgave her!

Anyway I woke up early on the morning of the transit because I knew the ship would be

at the first lock before breakfast. The immediate thoughts that flooded into my head

weren’t about the canal though, they were about the argument I’d had with the

passenger, Leo. He’s the most opinionated, insufferable man I’ve ever met! He was rude

and dismissive about my book too. OK, I understand that romantic fiction isn’t

everyone’s cup of tea. It’s not always mine either, I admit that. But he didn’t have to be

so damn contemptuous. Then he started ranting on about how hard done by men are

because women treat them badly. Um, hello! It’s mostly women who file for divorce, I

know that. And they’re driven to it. Given half a chance the majority of them would stay

with their husbands because they really want their marriages to work. But there’s a point

where you have to realise you’re just grinding yourself down in a marriage. Leo doesn’t

seem to appreciate that. At least….he didn’t. He apologised to me when we were at a

lecture about the construction of the canal and there was something about him then

that made me feel differently about him. I’d been so angry with him but then…..Forget

it, I don’t want to think about him and the sudden way he made me feel. It’s silly.

The talk about the canal was really interesting. (Far more interesting than insubstantial

feelings about people I hardly know!) The people of Panama talk about the sides to their

country - you’re either on the Atlantic side or the Pacific side (‘this’ side or the ‘other’

side). The concept of constructing some kind of canal to link both sides and join the

Pacific and Atlantic oceans dates back to the early 16th century when Vasco Nunez de

Balboa realised that only a narrow strip of land that separated the two. Although the

idea was tempting leaders of the time decided that it was physically impossible to

accomplish the task.

The first serious attempt at constructing a canal was undertaken by the French in 1882.

It was led by Ferdinand de Lesseps who had been involved in the building of the Suez

canal and who was confident that this could be repeated in Panama. Unfortunately the

project was plagued with problems from the start. Failing to raise the kind of finance

needed led to significant delays and the workers contracted tropical diseases like malaria

and yellow fever which killed a shocking number - up to 20,000 of them according to

Miguel who was giving the talk. So by 1889 the construction company was put into

liquidation and the idea put on hold.

It wasn’t until 1904 that the US began the process again, first trying to clear the

construction zone of the mosquitoes that had transmitted the diseases which had

tragically killed so many before moving on to the actual construction work. The canal

was finally completed in 1914 and the first public ship to go through was the Ancon -

that was an answer to one of the treasure hunt questions so glad I remembered it! We’re

not doing badly on the treasure hunt but we’ve missed one or two things and I know

that there are probably people who’ve got everything. I feel bad about it because Mia

would so love to win the ring.

There’s no doubt that the Panama Canal is an absolute marvel of engineering and

construction. The transit was slow but fascinating. I thought it would be like travelling

along a European canal but once you go through the locks you end up sailing through

wide man-made lakes. Seeing the crocs basking in the sun as we passed by was brilliant.

We were just staring at them talking about their viability as handbags when Leo Tyler

showed up and Mia asked him to join us for dinner. I know I’ve made my peace with

him but, honestly, what was she thinking? We’re not here to get friendly with people.

We’re here to do a job. No matter how often I say that to her, she doesn’t seem to see it.

Anyway, what’s most amazing about the canal is the sheer volume of traffic passing

through it. Most of it is commercial shipping and I couldn’t help wondering if any of the

huge containers we saw held something that I’d buy in Dublin when I got home. (I’m

thinking about a new washing machine. My old one is making some funny noises.)

I was really looking forward to stopping at Costa Rica. I meant to visit it for a couple of

weeks when I was living in Guatemala but then I met Alejo and the truth was I didn’t

want to go anywhere without him. It’s funny how meeting someone can change your

whole perception of things. Until then I wouldn’t have put the idea of hanging around

with a man ahead of travelling to new places but once I’d met Alejo I didn’t want to let

him out of my sight.

So this was my chance to see one of the most biologically diverse countries in the world.

Peter and Frank, my college friends who are big into the whole eco lifestyle, once told

me that there are more than half a million difference species in Costa Rica and 26% of

the country has been designated as protected areas. This diversity has made Costa Rica a

popular eco-tourism destination as well as a cruise-ship stop-off point. Peter and Frank

are now involved in a programme that the Costa Rican government is running to help

Costa Rica become the world’s first carbon neutral country. They’re hoping to achieve

this by 2021. In the meantime, Costa Rica ranks as the worlds ‘greenest’ country in the

Happy Planet Index. (The Index measures the ecological efficiency with which human

well-being is delivered. You can check it out at www.happyplanetindex.org)

Like lots of Latin America, Costa Rica has a chequered history. (That’s why my parents

were a bit freaky about me coming to Guatemala a few years ago. Mind you, they had a

generally mixed picture of Central America, South America, drugs cartels and despotic

dictators; a picture unfairly shared by lots of Europeans.) Christopher Columbus (yet

again) was the first European to arrive way back when, but it was Gil Gonzalez Davila

who named the country Rich Coast because of the gold bands worn by the local

inhabitants. Although Spain colonised the country, it was difficult place to profit from

because its resources couldn’t be exploited very easily. Eventually, after Mexico had

rebelled against Spain, much of Central America, including Costa Rica followed. There

was a brief flirtation with being part of Mexico - which started a civil war - but

eventually Costa Rica became an independent state. The Ticos (as they are known) like

to make the point that their country is peaceful and stable and, as I reminded my

mother before we came on the cruise, is not dominated by military dictatorships. In fact

the army was disbanded in 1948 and they’ve managed to get along without one since.

I was really excited about the idea of the rain-forest walk although I could see that Britt

was having her doubts. She is a bit of a moving feast for mozzies but she kept spraying

herself with so much repellent that she was repelling people too with the whiff! Even

with her managing to stink out the ecosphere the rain-forest trip was everything I hoped

for. I loved walking across the rope bridges and scrambling along the narrow trails. It was

an amazing experience and definitely the highlight of the trip so far. (I think Britt would

say that the Panama Canal was but I disagree.) There’s a certain atmosphere in the forest

that simply can’t be replicated anywhere else - a stillness but with an underlying sense of

unseen activity.

Of course there was some seen activity too because our very own multi-coloured bird,

Pippin the eco-warrior model, honed in on the single available man, Leo. Personally I

think there’s a certain chemistry between Britt and Leo but I’m not sure if its the sort

that can bring two people together or end up as an explosive cocktail. But Pippin

brought her very own brand of chemistry to things by more or less throwing herself at

him. She admitted to Britt and me that she’d googled him in the cyber cafe which

surprised us both; after all she’d been wittering on before about being a working woman

and having her own career and all that sort of stuff so I wouldn’t have thought she’d be

interested in googling available men. But there you are, she did, although it was fruitless

because she didn’t turn up anything on him. Anyway what happened was that Leo had

turned his attention to Britt who astonishingly managed to get a mozzie bite (it must

have been very determined to get through all that spray) when Pippin launched herself

off the end of one of the rope bridges and fell right in front of Leo. He immediately

abandoned Britt for Pippin though he didn’t have much option because she held her

had out and ordered him to help her up.

It was very funny and Leo seems to be the only person on the trip not to realise that the

Venus Fly Trap had closed in on him…..

I was both dreading and feverishly anticipating the stop-off at Guatemala. I couldn’t

quite believe that I was coming here again and that I’d actually walk the same streets as I

walked with Alejo, that I could sit on the same benches in the square or drink coffee in

the same cafes. It was surreal, almost too much to take. I kept thinking about what I’d

do and how I might feel, trying to play down the whole experience. But when I woke up

this morning my heart was hammering away in my chest and I was actually afraid I’d

collapse before I even got off the ship.

For the first time ever Britt was in an exploration mood. She was gutted to discover that

the Mayan ruins trip was booked out and so she decided she wanted to come to Antigua

Guatemala with me even though it’s a long, long bus drive. I really wanted to be alone

but I couldn’t put her off. Would have felt bad about doing that anyway. So I used some

of our driving time to give her the potted history of the country as we wound our way

along the twisting roads.

Guatemala was part of the Mayan empire which was in decline by the time the Spanish

(who else) arrived in 1542. Yet again the diseases they brought, along with the

mistreatment of the indigenous people, led to a dramatic decline in the local population.

It wasn’t until nearly 300 years later that independence from Spain was achieved,

although the country remained politically unstable and was wrecked by civil war and

divisions.

Guatemala’s name wasn’t bequeathed by the conquering Spaniards for a change, but is

from two similar words meaning ‘place of abundant flowers’ and ‘place of trees’. Antigua

Guatemala is now a UNESCO world heritage site (another one this trip!) and is one of

the most stunning places I’ve ever been to. It’s vibrant and colourful and has a unique

atmosphere where the past and the present seem to merge. Because it’s very popular as a

centre to study Spanish, there’s a young population which gives it an energetic feel, even

though it’s also got a traditionally laid-back atmosphere. I loved living here, I really did.

I managed to get Britt to head off on a touristy-thing so that I could visit the Cathedral

on my own. I remember thinking how imposing it looked when I first saw it, even

though it’s been partially destroyed by earthquakes over the years, and I thought exactly

the same when I saw it again. Of course all the memories came flooding back, seeing

Alejo for the first time, talking to him, realising that I’d fallen in love with him -

everything.

I couldn’t help crying. I try not to these days because I don’t want Allegra to see me

upset but being in the Cathedral again made it all so real. And then Britt turns up all

bossy and annoyed which upset me even more.

She was shocked when I told her the full story about Alejo and me. Her lawyer’s brain

engaged gear furiously and she was full of opinions about what I should do. Talked

about his responsibilities - hell, I know what they are but I have my own reasons for not

wanting to get him involved. And yet today I wondered about it all over again. I

wondered if what I was doing was right for Allegra. If it was right for me. I need to think

it through a bit more. I need to do what’s right. Because if I make the wrong choices it

could be just like one of Guatemala’s 30 volcanoes erupting. And that’s something we

could all do without.

I can’t believe that we’re at the end of the cruise. It seems to have gone by in a whirl and

so many things have happened that I’m having trouble putting them into context. The

most important thing, from a professional viewpoint, is that all the talks seem to have

gone really well which is a major relief. I was so nervous about it before we started that I

felt sick for days but once I got going it wasn’t so bad and to be honest, by the end I was

nearly enjoying it. The interview with Steve was great, he’s such a lovely man I can’t

believe Mia doesn’t see it!

Me and Mia is another thing. We started off being spiky with each other but right now I

feel that we’ve grown so much closer. I understand her life even though her choices

wouldn’t necessarily have been my choices. But I know my choices wouldn’t be hers

either. The thing is we’re both happy to accept each other’s point of view which I’m not

sure we ever did before. I really hope she makes the choice to get that shit Alejo to face

up to his responsibilities and help her with Allegra. Maybe one day I can make her see

how important it is. But I’m not going to interfere. Her life, her decision.

The other amazing thing that happened was Leo and Pippin getting engaged. Obviously

I think he’s off his head because I can’t see that she’s right for him but maybe I’m wrong.

Thing is, I only ever get to see relationships when they’ve gone pear-shaped so every time

I see people together I look for the fault lines. There are plenty with Leo and Pippin but

perhaps they don’t matter. Perhaps they can fill in the cracks and live happily ever after.

I hope so. Leo deserves happiness. (Funny how I’m thinking he does but I haven’t

thought the same about her! I’m a shallow, fickle person, really I am. They both deserve

happiness and I hope they make each other happy. There. Now I feel like a better

person!)

I was disappointed in Acapulco. It looked stunning from the ship, especially by night

when the lights on the city hillsides are like diamonds on black velvet. The scenery and

views from the city during the day were marvellous too, but I couldn’t help feeling (and

Mia agreed with me) that Acapulco itself is faded and trading on past glories.

It captured world attention in the 1950s when Hollywood stars and European royalty

flocked to its many beaches, but it has now become a resort town swamped by hotels and

inexpensive restaurants. (Not that I mind the nachos and tortillas, I like Mexican food,

but the whole area along the beach is a bit of a strip which takes away from the natural

beauty of the bay.) Some of the passengers took a tour of the city but all it entailed was

being driven past a bunch of ever more luxurious hotels and then being brought to a

jewellery shop at the end! They were pretty mad about it afterwards.

Mia and I went to see the cliff divers of La Quebrada which was also a bit of a tourist

trap thing although the moment when they hurl themselves from the cliffs is fairly

amazing. Afterwards we agreed that its best not to go on an actual trip to see this

because you are brought into a restaurant which is tacky beyond belief. You can see it

just as well from the street! The divers then come looking for tips which (if you haven’t

been scammed into paying for the trip) is fair enough - they have just risked their lives

after all!

Acapulco always sounded slightly exotic and luxurious to me but it wasn’t a patch on

any other city on the voyage all of which were far more magical. In fact the whole voyage

was in a way I didn’t quite expect.

But now it’s back to reality. And I’m not sure what that’s going to bring….

Obviously the city of Granada isn’t part of the cruise, but since it’s Alejo’s home town

and one of the most beautiful cities in the world it deserves a mention. Besides, it’s

linked through its tenuous name connection with Grenada, the island. I was blown away

by it when I first visited a few years ago. Old and new sit side by side with each other as

do Muslim and Christian cultures. It truly is steeped in history - as well as boasting the

shop where I bought the most expensive shoes I ever owned!

The history of Andalucia, southern Spain, is very much the history of the Moors and the

Christians. (The name comes from the Arabic, Al-Andalus.) Granada is one of it’s major

cities. The Moors took control of Granada in 711 which reached the height of its

dominance under the Nazrid dynasty of the early 13th century. It was over this time

that the famous Alhambra Palace and the Generalife were constructed, along with

further expansion of the old city (known as Albacin).

Ibn el-Ahmar, who was the then Nazari king, entered into an agreement with the

Spanish king Ferdinand, an agreement which kept Granada in Nazari hands while the

Spaniards took control of other major strongholds throughout Spain. However

Ferdinand and Isabella eventually conquered Granada in 1492, routing the last ruler,

Boabdil. It’s said that he cried when he looked back at his defeated city and that his

mother told him ‘weep like a woman for what you could not defend as a man’. The place

from which he looked back at the city is known as The Moor’s Last Sigh. All this

occurred in the same year as Columbus set off on his voyage to discover America, but it

is possible that he was in Andalucia when the city surrendered as he writes in his diary

about seeing the banners of the King and Queen flying from the palace.

Initially the customs of the Moors were respected after the Spaniards took control, but

eventually they were suppressed and although they rebelled they were conquered again

and expelled from the city. Reflecting the disputes over the Caribbean islands between

the French and Spaniards, the French had a cut at annexing Granada when Napoleon

invaded Spain in 1810 but their presence was short lived. The city continued to go

through turbulent times but is now a university city and a must for anyone visiting

Andalucia.

Most people naturally go to visit the stunning Alhambra palace which was built as a

fortress, palace and city all in one. The name, from the Arabic Al Qal’a al-Hamra, means

‘the red fort’ and the entire building and its walls appear a dusky red when first seen.

The symmetry of the building work, the elegance of the carvings and the mosaics, and

the beauty of the gardens is absolutely unforgettable. Each Muslim ruler added his own

building or palace within the overall structure. One of the major features within the

palace is the running water which was supplied by diverting the river Darro, nearly 8km

away. The water is both cooling and restful, particularly if you’re visiting during the

summer when temperatures can top 40 degrees.

Catherine of Aragon (daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella) spent her childhood here

before going to England to marry Arthur, brother of the man who would be King Henry

VIII and Catherine’s second husband. It must have been a great shock for her to leave

the warm elegance of the Alhambra for the cold, dark palaces of England.

The Generalife is where the gardens were tended and was a place of rest for the rulers. It

had many vegetable and fruit gardens as well as water features, and has a far more rural

feel than the Alhambra palace itself. The name is unusual and there are a variety of

theories about it but the most popular is that it is from the Jardines del Alarife, which

means the Builder’s Gardens.

Granada isn’t only about its palaces, of course. It’s a living, breathing university city and

lovely to walk around. One of my favourite haunts is a traditional ice-cream shop near

the Ayuntamiento (town hall). The ice-cream is made on the premises and is absolutely

delicious!