VOTED BESTMAGAZINE SUPPLEMENT

in side

c o nt

r i b ut

o rs

L et ’s be friends: facebook.com/bdwanted

8 O C TO B E R 2013 WA N T E D

ARC OF TIMEThe slice of Switzerlandat the epicentre of theglobal watch industry

See page 19

TEX

T M

ATT

MO

RLEY

UPFRONT

U l t rav i o l e trestaurant inShanghai. LouisR o e d e re rCristal Rosé

ULT

RA

VIO

LET

PHO

TOG

RA

PHY

SC

OTT

WRI

GH

T O

F LI

MEL

IGH

T ST

UD

IO

London.Ve n i c e

Malcolm Dare started out as aphotographic assistant in 1984 and openedhis own studio in 1990, having worked onmajor ad campaigns. His speciality isworking with light, on jewellery, fashion orfood shoots.The watch you’re wearing at themoment? A Tempo, given to me by aclient that I have worked with over thepast 23 years. Most memorablemoment on a shoot? Being given onlyone chance to capture models in aroller coaster as it sped past andmanaging to get the shot. The firstcamera you ever owned? A Yashica.

Matt Morley has beenwriting for us for the past sixyears and, from his Europeanhome, makes frequent foraysinto the Swiss mountains toindulge his horological passionand eat cheese.The first watch you ever

owned? My very first watch ever was a very simpleTimex given to me by my grandmother, white dial,black synthetic strap. It meant the world to me as asmall boy. The first automatic watch, however,came to me on my 21st birthday as a gift from myfather — a Rolex Datejust in stainless steel with ananthracite grey dial. It is something of a familytradition now. A person from history you’d love tolunch with? One of the great 18th century Swisswatch inventors such as Abraham-Louis Breguet.Perhaps he could help me understand how theywere able to make so many incredibly complexmicro-mechanical movements in a time beforeelectricity or basic sanitation. A watch brand tokeep an eye on? I first met Michel Parmigiani ofParmigiani Fleurier watches back in 2006 andsince then his brand has grown in leaps andbounds, largely thanks to a massive injection ofcapital. Now he is everywhere and producingsome of the finest timepieces on the market.

Jim Shi is a New York-basedjournalist whose writing spansmultiple disciplines, from styleand automotive to design andwatches and jewellery. Hishobbies include tennis, fastcars, watch collecting andanything Thom Browne.

What was your first paying job? Working for IMGFashion as the editor of its trade publication, Th eDa i l y. In my capacity, I also worked with the IMGModels team as well as the production team thatstages Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week. One luxuryitem that you covet, regardless of price? Anincredibly fast and equally luxurious sports car.The new Rolls-Royce Wraith comes to mindimmediately. What watch are you currentlywearing? I am currently switching between anIWC rose gold Portuguese and a vintage LouisCartier Tank with navy blue croc strap.

Co-President, Chopard

Caroline Scheufele is co-presidentof the prestigious watch andjewellery house of Chopard, a roleshe shares with her older brother Karl-Friedrich.

A veritable powerhouse on the global luxuryscene, she has been with the family firm all of herprofessional life, inventing one of the most iconicwatches of recent times, the Chopard HappyDiamonds, as well as instigating the partnershipbetween Chopard and the celebrity-studded

Cannes Film Festival.She spends much of her year travelling,

meeting her customers, visiting hernetwork of retail stores and looking forcreative inspiration for her next collection.

Where is your most inspiring holidaydestination? Cruising on a yacht. Who isthe most interesting person you’ve meton your travels? It’s very difficult to say;I am lucky to meet many amazingpeople, with fascinatingpersonalities. What is the one gadgetyou would never travel without? My

two “l u ckytokens”: twosoft toys — arabbit and amonkey. I

always travel with them. What is your favouriterestaurant abroad? One of my favouriterestaurants, where I have been recently, is theUltraviolet in Shanghai (u v b y p p. cc ). An insider tipfor coping with a long-haul flight? A good glassof red wine and comfortable clothes — a cooljogging suit and a jumper always works well forme. Where is your next destination? Venice forthe Mostra del Cinema di Venezia, the VeniceFilm Festival. What is your favourite city? Paris isone of my favourite cities, but I love London too.What is your worst travel experience?Unfortunately, also on a boat. What is the firstthing you do when you check into a hotel room? Iopen the window to take a look at the view.Which three items will you always find in yoursuitcase? A pashmina, my iPad, and my HappySport watch. What is your favourite music trackat the moment? Get Lucky by Daft Punk. What isyour definition of luxurious travel? P r iva cy,refinement and no mobile phones. Which do youprefer: beach, city or bush vacations? A mix: torelax, to discover, and to experience new places.What is your favourite Champagne? LouisRoederer Cristal Rosé.

trave

logu

e CAR

OLI

NE S

CHEU

FELE

TEX

T M

ATT

MO

RLEY

pow

erdr

esse

r JEA

N-FR

EDER

IC D

UFO

UR

CEO of Z

enith

Watches

UPFRONT

in sideTIME TO PLAY

The season’s hottesthorlogerie and jewels

See page 4010 O C TO B E R 2013 WA N T E D

Jean-Frederic Dufour is the dynamic CEO of Zenith watches, theman credited with having turned the company around after it “lostits way” under a previous leader, updating the entire collectionand taking it successfully back to its roots.

His CV takes in stints at Chopard, Ulysse Nardin and Hublot,covering sales, marketing, product development andmanagement, all of which makes him a real watch man — anindustry insider capable of talking tourbillons as fluently astimesheets.

Dufour also cuts a dapper shape at the annual watch fairs inSwitzerland and exudes a certain Gallic charm at all times. He firstwon over Wa n t e d by putting us “on hold” during a face-to-faceinterview to take a call from his wife — the sign of a man whoknows where his priorities lie.

Having dedicated his life to the watch industry, a timepiece isnothing short of a reflection on the identity of its wearer. Accordingto Dufour: “Those who choose a Zenith watch are authentic,daring and modern people with timeless values; people who havefaith in traditional watchmaking and craftsmanship.”

His own personal favourite from Zenith’s history is the ElPrimero of 1969, “with its three colours of light grey, blue andanthracite that have become so iconic”, while his contemporaryfavourite is the brand new El Primero Lightweight, “the watchwords there are lightness, performance and originality”.

DUFOUR WEARSSuit by Zegna, shirt by Loro Piana, tie by Louis Vuitton This is adark blue wool and cashmere suit from Zegna (www.zeg na.com). Myshirt is a white Loro Piana (w w w. l o r o p i a n a. co m ) and my tie is a blueLouis Vuitton. (w w w. l o u i s v u i t t o n . co m ) Watch by Zenith This is aPilot Montre d’Aéronef Type 20 Annual Calendar. We launchedthis model for BaselWorld 2013. The Pilot collection (trademarkbelonging to Zenith), is one of the strongest legacies in the wholeindustry as we have been producing pilots watches in Le Loclesince planes have been in the air. (w w w. z e n i t h - w a t c h e s. co m ) Shoesby Alden I do not remember where I bought this specific pair but Ican tell you that my first pair was bought in New York. Alden has along story and its shoes carry forward a tradition of qualityshoemaking. (w w w. a l d e n s h o e. co m ) Accessories by Zenith I amwearing some Zenith cufflinks and my wedding ring. Usually mybelts are from Bulgari. (w w w. b u l ga r i. co m )

DUFOUR RECOMMENDSStyle tip? To always be comfortable. For me, clothes must beelegant and comfortable. Favourite restaurant? Chetzeron inCrans Montana, Switzerland (w w w. c h e t z e r o n . c h ). Ultimate luxury?To be with my loved ones and in good health. Favourite fragrance?Aqva Pour Homme by Bvlgari. Favourite travel destination? Th ecanton of Wallis in the Swiss Alps. Style icon? Jack Nicholson.

JETSET J83954-838 MYKONOSMovement: quartz

Features: water resistant to 30mStrap: braceletPrice: R1 599

Distributor: JP Time, 011 883 849 3,w w w. j p t i m e. co. z a

SWATCH PAR-LONCase: plastic

Strap: siliconePrice: R730

Distributor: Swatch Group SA,011 911 1200, www.swatch.com

SWATCH BLANCACase: plastic

Features: glows in the dark, waterresistant to 200m

Strap: siliconePrice: R870

Distributor: Swatch Group

LEGO Darth Vader desk lamp,R 4 9 9. 9 0

See page 30

12 OCTOBER 2013 WA N T E D

FEMALE FLAIRWATCHMAKERS ADD A FEMININE TOUCH TO THEIR COLLECTIONS

TEXT MATT MORLEY

HORLOGERIE

THIS YEAR HAS BEEN ALL ABOUT THE LADIES, INmechanical watch terms at least. The top brands in thebusiness have released a bevy of new models and collectionsto the female market.

“Women are starting to buy watches themselves, andmost importantly for themselves — a very newd e ve l o p m e n t ,” says Jean-Marc Jacot, CEO of ParmigianiFleurier. “Until recently it was men who did most of thebuying, which is completely different.”

Fashion brands such as Dior, Chanel and Louis Vuittonhave also been investing in their watchmaking capacities likenever before and jewellery brands Chopard, Cartier andGraff have all been upping the ante with their crossoverwatch collections, half jewel/half timepiece.

All of this has helped to introduce vast swathes of wealthyfemale buyers to mechanical watches for the first time, and

now the pure-play watch brands want a bigger slice ofthe action.

U-Boat’s founder and creative director ItaloFontana has focused on creating “something reallyluxurious for ladies, often embellished withdiamonds and rubies, in a size that may be big butis also perfect for their wrists”, as he puts it.

In an attempt to address a practical issue hisfemale customers raised, Fontana even went so faras to introduce a special push button watch crown

that reduces the risk of breaking a well-manicured

nail in the process of changing the time or date.In his view, “watches are no more just a boy’s toy. Ladies

are becoming more and more interested and they aredefinitely gaining space in the market overall.”

The U-Boat Classico Lady Diamond collection, new thisyear, features four different models all with a 40mm stainlesssteel case and diamond-set dial. The Classico 40 SS has whiteor black diamonds set on the watch’s shoulders (betweenstrap and dial) as well as the 4, 8 and 12 o’c l o ck markers. AClassico 40 SS pavé black diamond version has a full whitediamond-covered dial with black diamond indexes at 4, 8and 12 o’clock. The top of the range Classico 40 SS fulldiamonds version incorporates an additional 380 diamondsaround the bezel, as well as the 481 already on the dial.

Vacheron Constantin may not have the razzle and dazzleof Fontana’s contemporary collections but, with over acentury of experience in the ladies’ watch sector to its name,it has plenty going for it. It made a clear statement of intentthis year by dedicating its entire collection at the annualwatch fair in Geneva to women.

The two Patrimony Lady models exemplify the discretionand elegance Vacheron does best. The Traditionnelle versionhas an 18ct white gold case just 33mm in diameter with amanual wind, mechanical movement developed entirelyin-house and a diamond-set bezel containing 54 roundcut diamonds.

In a second version, the Patrimony Contemporaine, it

Pa r m i g i a n iF l e u r i e r To n d a1950 Setcollection

U-BoatClassico 40 SS

pavé blackdiamonds.

Classico 40 SSfull diamonds

13 OCTOBER 2013 WA N T E D

Ultimately, all our watches, both for men and women, share the same identity,the same concept and come from one pencil — Italo Fontana

HORLOGERIE

appears with a rose gold case and rose gold bracelet for amore glamorous look.

Parmigiani launched its first ladies’ collection in 2006and simultaneously began a sponsorship project named“Women of Exception” as a way to strengthen its ties to thefemale market. Recognising women of achievement fromdifferent countries and fields, from sport to medicine,business and the arts, the award is a perfect example ofhow a purist watch brand has had to proactively court thefemale market.

Pa r m i g i a n i ’s annual ladies’ watch releases go a stepfurther than most. “What we don’t do is take a men’s watchand simply ’reduce’ it into a ladies’ wa t ch ,” says Jacot. “Ourlady watches are an interpretation of their own. We keep theb ra n d ’s DNA and seek feminine volumes, shapes, dialcolours and setting patterns.”

This year saw the introduction of the Parmigiani Tonda1950 Set, a new take on the Tonda 1950 model now ’set’ witha diamond bezel. Measuring just 8mm in width and 39mm indiameter, this is an unobtrusively thin timepiece with adelicate graphite or white Tahitian mother of pearl dial and84 brilliant cut diamonds on the bezel. Other styling optionsinclude a rose or white gold case and four different Hermèsleather straps.

Zenith introduced the first feminine model to its Pilotcollection in 2013, the Pilot Aéronef Type 20 “40mm Lady”.Available in four different versions, the choice is betweendiamonds on the bezel only or on the dial as well. The formeroption comes with a brown alligator strap, the latter with asatin strap.

Despite the obvious appeal of these models though, thebig question clearly is: are these classic watch brands doingenough to differentiate themselves from the fashion andjewellery brand watches? Are the ladies’ versions merelymen’s watches in disguise or do they genuinely bringsomething to the party?

“Ultimately, all our watches, both for men and women,share the same identity, the same concept and come fromone pencil,” says Fontana. He’s certainly on the right track,but will the increasingly informed female watch buyer thinkthe same?

Va ch e ro nConstantinPatrimony LadyC o n t e m p o ra i n e .Pa t r i m o nyTra d i t i o n n e l l e

Zenith PilotAéronef Type20 “40mmL a dy ”collection

U-Boat Classico Lady DiamondMovement: automatic, modifiedca l i b r eCase: stainless steel, crown at 9o'clockFeatures: diamond-set numerals/dial/ bezelStrap: black alligator leatherPrice: upon requestDistributor: Luks Group,011 262 0396,www.luksg roup.co.za

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda 1950Se tMovement: PF 701, automaticCase: 39mm rose or white goldFeatures: 42-hour power reserve,individually numberedStrap: Hermès alligator leatherPrice: upon requestDistributor: Picot & Moss,011 669 0500,w w w. p i co t a n d m o s s. co. z a

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony LadyMovement: automatic(Contemporaine), manual-wind( Traditionelle)Case: 36mm, 18ct pink gold (C) orwhite gold (T)Features: 40-hour power reserveStrap: 18ct pink gold (C) or alligatorleather (T)Price: upon requestDistributor: Vendôme Distributors,0800 600 035, www.vacheron-co n s t a n t i n . co m

Zenith Pilot Aéronef Type 20 “40mmL ady”Movement: Elite 681, automaticCase: 40mm rose gold or white goldFeatures: gem-set dial and/or bezel,50-hour power reserveStrap: satin with pin buckle or blackleatherPrice: upon requestDistributor: Picot & Moss

16 OCTOBER 2013 WA N T E D

S HOWME YOURSECRET S

TELLING THE TIME COMES SECONDTO THE SHINE OF THESE PIECES

TEXT MATT MORLEY

These watches are not really there to tell the time, lets be clear about that.They are wonderful pieces of jewellery first and foremost

Graff, Piaget and Cartier leading the charge in this trend; itplays to their strengths and gives them a competitiveadvantage over the classic watch brands.

Graff has released a magnificent new piece with thepower to turn a wrist into a scene stealer, no matter howglamorous the party. A 133 emerald beaded bracelet sets thetone with its five strings of finely threaded stones making abright and colourful statement. This is connected to a refined,diamond-set case that has a hinged single emerald coverweighing 26.71ct protecting the dial underneath. Flip it up toreveal a petite, white mother of pearl, trapezium-shaped dialdisplaying the time.

Intricate, infinitely feminine and a masterpiece ofcraftsmanship, it is, as Pitteloud suggests, a jewellery itemfirst and foremost, but the hidden delight of the Quartzpowered clock gives the watch a pleasing sense of purpose.

Piaget can always be relied upon to produce a secretwatch or two in its collections. Indeed, it is arguably one of itssignature pieces, with the first such watch originallylaunched by the house as far back as 1942. Feminine andelegant, these watches are simultaneously a discreettimepiece and a piece of jewellery. Piaget prefers not to call itone or the other but a subtle combination of both.

One of the standouts from the current collection is thesecret watch with white gold and diamond flower motif on awhite satin strap. Picking up on a naturally recurring patternand incorporating a sliding central flower-shaped cover, thispiece has 14.7ct of diamonds set on its delicate case and dial.A 1.8ct yellow sapphire represents the flower bud andprovides a focal point when the dial is covered. When thetiny diamond-studded dial is exposed it inevitably attractsthe eye’s attention, even if reading the time can be somethingof a struggle.

Cartier’s current collection dwarfs that of Piaget’s in sizeand only looks set to grow further over coming years. ItsMontre Tortue secret watch also deploys a feminine whitestrap, this time in calfskin, matched with a white gold turtle-shaped case layered with brilliant cut diamonds and twosapphires for the turtle’s eyes. A lacquered and silvered dialhouses a brilliant cut diamond hour marker and petite,

rhodium-plated steel hands. The turtle’s shell is representedby a rose pink morganite gemstone.

Louis Vuitton may be the new kid on the block in bothjewellery and watches camps, but that hasn’t stopped theFrench powerhouse from rapidly establishing itself as a forceto be reckoned with. This secret watch forms part of the 2013Les Ardentes collection and is quintessential LV in every way.

The designers in Paris have not only managed to integratethe LV flower monogram into the shape of the diamond-setdial cover, they have also opted for a flower-shaped cut tothe diamonds in use on the same watch. Whereas a standard

brilliant cut diamond has 58 facets, this design has 65,meaning it picks up more light and gives off more shine.Handmade by a master enameller in Geneva, the enameldial underneath has four separate diamond studs as hourmarkers that expertly frame the central minute and hourhands. Pure magic.

Graff carved emerald secret watchMovement: QuartzCase: diamond setFeatures: single emerald dial cover (26ct)Strap: set with 133 emerald beads (108ct)Price: upon requestDistributor: Graff SA, 021 885 8160, www.delaire.co.za

Piaget Limelight flower motif secret watchCase: diamond set white goldMovement: QuartzStrap: white satinFeatures: secret case, diamond pave dialPrice: upon requestDistributor: Vendôme Distributors, 0800 600 0 35,w w w. p i a g e t. co m

Cartier Montre Tortue secrète de CartierMovement: QuartzCase: white goldFeatures: morganite gemstone dial coverStrap: white calfskinPrice: upon requestDistributor: Vendôme Distributors, w w w. ca r t i e r. co m

Louis Vuitton Les Ardentes secret watchMovement: QuartzCase: white goldFeatures: monogram-shaped diamond cutStrap: diamond setPrice: upon requestDistributor: Louis Vuitton SA, 011 784 9854,w w w. l o u i s v u i t t o n . co m

Graff carvedemerald secretwatch. CartierMontre Tortue

secrète deCartier

Louis VuittonLes Ardentessecret watch

PiagetLimelight

flower motifsecret watch

HORLOGERIE

WHEN IS A WATCH NOT A WATCH?Judging by this year’s ladies collections, theanswer is pretty clear for most brands. Thesecret watch has made a resoundingcomeback this year with a plethora of newofferings on the table, each one a fantasy of

precious stones and metals.The elephant in the room though is the

issue of practicality, or the lack thereof in anywatch that deliberately covers its dial to hide the

time from the onlooker. A secret watch demands alittle attention before displaying the time and even

then, if it happens to be a particularly small dial, as many ofthem are, actually telling the time becomes a challenge.

“These watches are not really there to tell the time, letsbe clear about that. They are wonderful pieces of jewelleryfirst and foremost,” says , CEO of Graff Luxury WatchesMichel Pitteloud.

“I would be amazed if a lady actually opens the cover tolook at the time on a regular basis; she is more likely to showit off to an admirer.”

As a result, it is no surprise to see jewellery brands such as

L O CAT I O N

19 O C TO B E R 2013 WA N T E D

A glimpse of aworkroom in the PatekPhilippe watch factory

in Geneva, Switzerland

TEXT MATT MORLEY

ARC OFTIME

THE SLICE OF SWITZERLAND AT THEEPICENTRE OF THE WORLD’SLUXURY WATCH I N D U S T RY

CO

VER

PH

OTO

GR

APH

Y A

UTH

ENTI

CA

TED

NEW

S/A

RCH

IVE

PHO

TOS

/ GET

TY IM

AG

ES/ G

ALL

O IM

AG

ES

L O CAT I O N

20 O C TO B E R 2013 WA N T E D

Jura region. Watch Museumin Le Locle. A watchshowroom in LaChaux-de-Fonds. AudemarsPiguet manufactureworkshop circa 1923

G e n eva

Le Sentier

Arc Jurassien

Le Locle

La Chaux-de-FondsBienne

SWITZERLAND

Lausanne

Fleurier

Lake Geneva

Vallée de Joux

L O CAT I O N

THE SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY EARNS AROUNDR200bn in revenue for the country each year, with 700-oddbrands producing in the region of 70-million timepiecesannually. Not only is it Switzerland’s third largest industry —for many, the global watch industry is the Swiss watchindustry, such is the dominance of this small, centralEuropean country.

When it comes to premium and luxury timepieces, thefocus zooms in even further to one thin slice of westernSwitzerland that feeds the world’s appetite for high-endwatches, year in, year out. This largely French-speaking areaknown as the Arc Jurassien for its arc shape encompassingthe Jura mountain range, is the watch world’s Silicon Valley— if it goes down in luxury watches, it goes down here.

Ringed by the French border to the west, Geneva to thesouth, a string of lakes to the east and Schaffhausen to thenorth, this is a highly localised, insular industry where adistance of a few kilometres can mean the differencebetween one sense of identity and another, whether it be acommunity or a business.

A leisurely drive north-east from Geneva will take youpast endless rolling hills, an unfathomable number of dairycows and not just one or two of the luxury watch brandheadquarters but every single one of them, almost withoutexception. And that’s before the museums, antique storesand boutiques devoted to timepieces of all shapes and sizes.

As François Courvoisier, dean of the Institute of WatchMarketing in Switzerland puts it: “Geneva began as thecradle of Swiss watchmaking and still houses PatekPhilippe and Vacheron Constantin; then there is a townnamed La Chaux-de-Fonds with Corum and TAG Heuer;Le Locle is home to Zenith and Tissot; Bienne has Rolex andOmega; Audemars Piguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre are up in themountain area of Vallée de Joux and Parmigiani is innearby Fleurier.”

How do we explain this massive clustering of businessesin such a small area? According to Susanne Hurni, marketingdirector of Ulysse Nardin, “the story dates back 200 years towhen the first Swiss watchmakers began to build watches intheir farm houses during the long, cold winters”.

The congregation of suppliers such as case makers, dialmakers, tool makers, and others related to this nascentcottage industry evolved from there. “Back then transportand communication weren’t as easy as they are today so itmade sense for everyone to live and work close by.”

Jean-Marc Pontroué, CEO of Roger Dubuis believes thismakes his sector truly unique. “Watches are the only luxuryproduct to be made in such a small part of one country, noother sector I know of has that.”

This direct link between production and geography iswritten into the DNA of the watch industry. “Making amechanical watch requires a large number of different craftsso easy, direct access to those artisans has always beenimportant, just as being based here today is important; westill have to be close to the rest of the industry,” he says.

An hour north of Geneva lies the lakeside city ofLausanne, the last sign of big city life for a while on the arc’sgentle trajectory into the nearby countryside, an enchantingcollage of pastures, mountains and lakes. In winter a heavylayer of snow descends on much of the landscape but for therest of the year it is an idyllic scene ripe for exploration. It’s asif the Swiss Family Robinson might appear, leaping over thenearest hill at any minute.

Small towns such as Le Sentier, home of Jaeger-LeCoultre,have a manufacturing base so leisure tourists are scarce savefor the occasional enthusiast visiting the Wa t ch m a k e r sFoundation and Museum. It’s the kind of place that leavesyou in wonder at how such intricate and elaborate clocks,often made for the European aristocracy with apparentlyunlimited budgets, could have been produced more than200 years ago, even before the advent of electricity.

21 O C TO B E R 2013 WA N T E D

Le Locle town centre.Audemars Piguetheadquarters.Workshop, circa1907

Making a mechanical watch requires a large number of different crafts so easy,direct access to those artisans has always been important — Jean-Marc Pontroué

Le Sentier is a community that lives for watchmaking. It’sunashamedly a one-horse town and has always been so. Itwas the LeCoultre family, later of Jaeger-LeCoultre watches,who originally helped found the town. Antoine LeCoultre,the 10th generation heir, created a workshop here in 1833that would eventually become the very first factory to bringall the watchmaking trades under one roof, known to this dayas a “manufacture”.

Here we hit upon the key contradiction of the watchindustry and implicitly this region of Switzerland — itsendless innovations married with a seamless continuity withthe past.

Panerai is opening a new, eco-friendly and high-tech10 000m! manufacture building later this year above LakeNeuchâtel, deep in the heart of the Arc Jurassien. Whereasthe company’s production is currently split between multiplesites, the new building will unify everything in a singlelocation to increase its capacity, independence and qualitycontrol. The scale may be far larger than Antoine LeCoultre’s19th century initiative but the concept is just the same, nearly150 years later.

Hermès’s own watch division formally launched in 1978and, despite being a fiercely French brand both inside andout, it “started the workshops in Bienne, one of the hearts ofthe watch industry and the home of our main productionpartner”, says CEO Luc Perramond. For him at least, it is anever-ending cycle as “craftsmen pass on their skills from

generation to generation and the industry basically remainsin the same location”.

A walking tour of Bienne will take in the old city centrewhere the signs of the early 19th century watch workshopsare still visible on the top floors of some historic buildings. It’sa city where one in five inhabitants still work in the watchindustry, either directly for one of the major brands orindirectly for one of their suppliers. It’s hard to escape theinfluence of time in a place like this.

Similarly, being close to the companies with which itcollaborates most meant obvious efficiencies for Hermès,

L O CAT I O N

drawing it in like a magnet to follow a well trodden pathmade by countless other watch brands before it.

Is that all there is to it, though? Might not CEOs beattracted to the same things a tourist comes here for: the freshmountain air, outdoors lifestyle, unspoiled towns burstingwith tradition... cheese fondue?

For most of the company heads we spoke to, it is thepeople that really make this area special. Louis Vuittonlaunched its own watch workshop in the UNESCO-protectedJura mountain town of La Chaux-de-Fonds in 2002 because“the best craftsmen are all there”, according to Hamdi Chatti,the company’s director of watches and jewellery. “I believe itis of significant importance that we are located there too. Itassures our clients get only the best quality when purchasinga Louis Vuitton timepiece.”

The International Museum of Horology in La Chaux-de-Fonds may not be the most unbiased of sources perhaps butits focus on the role of key people in the development of theindustry and the local communities of workers thatsupported them along the way is telling, serving to reinforceChatti’s belief.

So what is it about the small-town inhabitants of this areathat makes such a difference? “About 50% of the industry’sworkers are from here and the mentality is generally hardworking, they are extremely dedicated with very few strikesor strong unions,” says Michel Pitteloud, CEO of Graff LuxuryWatches. “You simply couldn’t do what we do in the Far East;they just don’t have the skills.”

Those skills have to be honed and developed over time, atask carried out with typical Swiss efficiency by thenumerous engineering schools and training facilities close bythat offer up a steady stream of trainee craftsmen andapprentice artisans.

And almost without noticing it, here we are staring downthe barrel of “brand Switzerland”. Standing for quality,tradition and craftsmanship, the “Swiss Made” b ra n dfrequently ranks top in nation branding studies, largelythanks to the pool of skilled artisans that dominate itswo r k f o rc e .

“Our customers know that all the skills and expertise arefound in Switzerland so they expect us to be 100% SwissM a d e ,” says Pe r ra m o n d .

“The law allows for 60% of added value in a watch to be’Swiss Made’ but we decided to go for 100%. It is about acommitment to our clients.”

Hermès has one of the most powerful names in thebusiness so it can afford to lean on the trust customers put init, but some smaller brands are no longer satisfied with a “onesize fits all” approach that ignores whether a watch is 60% or100% Swiss made.

“Luxury brands generally use specific, historic locationsto market their products,” s ay s Courvoisier. “So some watchbrands have now created new labels to try to differentiatet h e m s e l ve s .”

One such newcomer on the scene is the Geneva Seal andthe Roger Dubuis brand, recently launched in SA byVendôme Distributors SA, is one of its key proponents. ForPontroué it’s a case of building on the city’s illustriouswatchmaking heritage to give customers a guarantee of the

Lake Neuchâtel.Bienne townc e n t re

Impression ofPa n e ra i ’s new office

and workshop. RogerDubuis headquarters

L O CAT I O N

23 O C TO B E R 2013 WA N T E D

LaC h a u x - d e - Fo n d s .Pa m i g i a n iheadquarters

InternationalMuseum of

Horology in LaC h a u x - d e - Fo n d s

highest standards possible, especially as he does not have200 years of company history behind him like some of hiscompetitors.

“Geneva is the capital city of fine watchmaking, just asParis is for fashion. Our brand was created in 1995. We are ahighly innovative company in terms of design, yet we alsoproduce exceptional mechanical movements. Having theGeneva Seal on all our watches was the best way to showt h a t .” Consequently, “Swiss Made” still appears on the watchbut hidden inside, whereas the “Made in Geneva” label takespride of place.

Watch fans looking to learn more about the city’shorological heritage could do far worse than heading for thefamous (and famously popular) Patek Philippe Museumwhere a large selection of historic timepieces are on display.For an overview of contemporary watches on the other hand,there is simply no better place to see so many watchboutiques in one place than the Rue du Rhone in the citycentre. If you can’t find the watch you want here, the chancesare it is no longer in production, and even then it’s still worthasking around.

“So why Geneva? You find all the suppliers there so it isvery practical. You don’t have to run from country to countryto find things. I can just jump from one factory to another in asingle day to look at a case, dial, movement, buckle or strap,"says Pitteloud, proving the city has as much to offer industryinsiders as visiting enthusiasts.

Michel Parmigiani of Parmigiani watches, now availablein SA via Picot & Moss, is a classically trained watchmakerfrom a small town near Fleurier, right up in the mountains ofthe Arc Jurassien. It’s a sleepy kind of place that reveals littleto the outside observer — apart from a fine local restaurant ortwo it prefers to reserve its secrets for those beavering awayinside the town’s watch factories, offices and headquarters.

Parmigiani made the transition from watch restorer towatchmaker and has gone on to create his own qualityguarantee to improve upon “Swiss Made” and possibly eventhe Geneva Seal. Known as the Fleurier Quality Foundation,in distinction from the Geneva Seal which requires a watch tobe 100% made and assembled specifically in Geneva, “thelabel has nothing to do with location. In essence it is a labelguaranteeing a certain quality of watchmaking for thec u s t o m e r,” explains Parmigiani CEO Jean-Marc Jacot.

Whether this is just the beginning and we will see a floodof such quality seals cropping up in future, each promisingsomething more than the next, remains to be seen. Could itrevolutionise the industry and spell the end of the “SwissMade” label in watches? Unlikely. If the past 200 years areanything to go by, this is just the latest sign of an industryreinventing itself to maintain the status quo. How very Swiss.

I believe it is of significant importance that we are located there too. It assures our clientsget only the best quality when purchasing a Louis Vuitton timepiece — Hamdi Chatti

26 OCTOBER 2013 WA N T E D

HORLOGERIE

PANERAI LUMINOR 1950 3 DAYSCHRONO FLYBACKPanerai CEO Angelo Bonati is a passionatesailor, owner of the 76-year-old Bermudaketch Eilean and the catalyst behind hisc o m p a ny ’s various regattasponsorships, including the PaneraiClassic Yachts Challenge.

This particular interpretation ofthe ever-popular Luminor modelmakes use of a newly developedmechanical movement powering aregatta countdown functioninvolving a push button at 4 o’c l o ckthat moves the orange chronographminute hand back on the orange start zonebetween 11 and 12 o’clock on the dial. Thisallows the wearer to set the desiredcountdown duration before the start of eachrace, before recording elapsed race time.

In a final flourish, the dial’s flange is enhanced with atachymeter scale expressed in knots that, with a littlepatience, enables the wearer to calculate a racing yacht’sspeed when measured over a fixed distance.

Thanks to the practical, waterproof rubber strap andlightweight titanium casing, this is a watch aimed squarely atactive sailors who don’t mind getting wet.

Features: regatta countdown, flyback chronograph, knot scaleCase: 47mm, brushed titaniumMovement: P9100 calibre automaticStrap: black rubberPrice: R169 000Distributor: Vendôme Distributors, 0800 600 0 35,w w w. pa n e ra i. co m

LOUIS VUITTON TAMBOUR TWIN CHRONOLouis Vuitton had a 25-year association with the America’sCup Challengers series until 2007 when it withdrew fromsponsorship. This year it rekindled its partnership with theevent once more. No surprises then that LV was also one of thefirst to set a course for dominance in the luxury regatta watchn i ch e .

The America’s Cup is a match race with two equal boatsgoing head to head; in this LV timepiece a new “bi-ch r o n o g ra p h ” movement, four years in the making, allows fortwo distinct times to be measured simultaneously with thedifference between them also displayed on the same dial.

The white gold case, alligator leather strap and handmadeenamel dial all put this timepiece firmly in the support boatcamp, spectating from a safe distance. Limited edition to 30pieces.

Features: bi-chronograph, enamel dialCase: 18ct white gold, 45.5mmMovement: automatic Manufacture movement LV175Strap: black alligatorPrice: R700 000Distributor: Louis Vuitton SA, 011 784 9854,w w w. l o u i s v u i t t o n . co m

CORUM ADMIRAL’S CUP AC-ONE 45 REGATTACorum has developed its associations with sailing viasponsorships of sailors such as Frenchman Loick Peyron andBritish superstar Ben Ainslie, as well as numerous regattasaround the world such as the Bol d’Or Mirabaud inSwitzerland. Only this year though did it launch its first watchequipped with a regatta function developed entirely in-housein La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland.

The timer in question is a jumping countdown located at3 o’clock on the dial that is adjustable from 0-10 minutesdepending on the race rules. After every 60 seconds thenumerical aperture display ‘jumps’ to display one minute lessbefore the start of the race. From 0, the chronograph continuesrunning for up to 12 hours via a central seconds hand, a 30-minute counter at 12 o’clock and an hour counter at 6 o’c l o ck .

Pa n e ra iLuminor 19503 Days ChronoF ly b a ck

Tag HeuerA q u a ra c e rC o u n t d ow nC h ro n o g ra p h

Corum Admiral’sCup Ac-one 45Regatta

Features: chronograph, regatta countdownCase: 45mm titanium with black PVD bezelMovement: CO 040 calibre automaticStrap: titaniumPrice: R149 500Distributor: Bellagio Jewellers, 011 883 2 2 1 5,b e l l a g i o j e w e l l e rs. co. z a

ALPINA SAILING YACHTTIMER COUNTDOWNAlpina’s CEO Dr Peter Stas is another sailing fanatic and isoften found cruising Croatia’s Dalmatian coast with family insummer. His brand’s 44mm diameter stainless steel sportswatch, launched this year, has a countdown timer from 10minutes to one minute that gives way to a fluorescent startindicator when the regatta begins.

A sensible black rubber strap that repels sweat and seawater, combined with a prominent orange chronographseconds hand and the black dial all give the YachttimerCountdown a practical, no-nonsense look.

Alpina is known for its “accessible luxury” price pointsmaking it ideal for thrashing around in training and badweather conditions without having to take out a newinsurance policy for your wrist. Limited to 8 888 pieceswo r l dw i d e .

Features: 10-minute countdownCase: 44mm stainless steelMovement: calibre AL-880 automaticStrap: black rubberPrice: upon requestDistributor: Picot & Moss, 011 669 0500,w w w. p i co t a n d m o s s. co. z a

TAG HEUER AQUARACER COUNTDOWNCHRONOGRAPHAs sponsors of the America’s Cup Oracle Team USA, TAGHeuer has built a strong association with the sailing world,something it hopes to capitalise on with the relaunch of itsAquaracer collection this year. The star of the show is thisCountdown Chronograph model, as worn by the Oracleracing team.

A five-windowed countdown timer at 12 o’c l o ckincorporates a clever three colour system allowing the samecounters to be used for five, 10 or 15-minute countdowns priorto a race start.

The generous 500m water resistance guarantee and heliumrelease valve will presumably only be useful for divers ratherthan sailors, unless things go drastically wrong during a race,but it is a sign of how seriously TAG Heuer has taken thisnautical association. A fine all-rounder of a watch ideal foractive sports fans.

Features: countdown function, helium valveCase: 43mm stainless steel with black ceramic bezelMovement: Calibre 72Strap: stainless steel or black rubberPrice: upon requestDistributor: Picot & Moss

Alpina SailingYa ch t t i m e rC o u n t d ow n

REGAT TASON THE WRIST

WATCH BRANDS CONTINUE TO BE INSPIRED BY, ANDSPONSOR, THE PRESTIGIOUS SPORT OF SAILING

TEXT MATT MORLEY

Louis VuittonTambour Twin

C h ro n o

44 OCTOBER 2013 WA N T E D

JEWELLED COIFFUREGraff DiamondsTEXT MATTHEW MCCLURE

What better way to commemorate your successthan to reinvent a legacy? Marking 60 years in thefine jewellery industry, Graff Diamonds hasrelaunched the iconic 1970s image Hair andJe w e l s — a masterpiece of design that highlightssome of the world’s most valuable and pricelessgems and jewellery pieces.

Photographer David Slijper and hair stylistEamonn Hughes teamed up to give a modernshine to this revolutionary image, which brokethe conventional boundaries of jewellery displayby emphasising that even younger women canaspire to the luxury of owning diamonds.

Twenty two pieces are incorporated intomodel Dalia Gunther’s exquisitely styledcoiffure, including a 10.47ct fancy vivid blueinternally flawless briolette diamond pendant.

Graff Diamonds, www.graffdiamonds.com

Paolo Marai is president and CEO of Timex Group’s LuxuryDivision, responsible for producing watches under licence forItalian fashion brands Versace and Ferragamo.

How did you start your career in watches? I was in consumerelectronics for almost 10 years, then I moved into the fashionindustry where I began to come into contact with luxury brands ona regular basis. In 2004, when Timex entered the luxury market, Iwas the guy with knowledge of the licensing business, someknowledge about watches and experience with luxury brands. Afriend of mine was also CEO of Versace Watches, so I guess youcan say there was an element of good luck in there too. What wasthe process behind the launch of the Versace and Ferragamowatch collections? For Ferragamo we had to go right back tounderstand the DNA of the brand, its history and heritage, thenexplain to our designers how to faithfully recreate that style in theform of a watch. There is a complicated approval process for allthese designs as well of course as the Ferragamo team has toprotect its brand but we all work well together.

For Versace on the other hand, it already had some experiencein the watch industry. The problem was that there was a lack ofcreativity within the company and we really had to rethink theentire product development process from the ground up. So thatbecame more of a restructuring of the business followed by arelaunch, whereas Ferragamo was essentially a startup. Do youthink consumers care whether a watch has been made in-houseby a brand instead of under licence by a large company likeTimex? It’s very simple. What you describe are just differentapproaches to making a watch. Whether you work with a smallcompany or a big one the most important thing is that they arededicated to your brand in every way.

Timex is a mass volume brand. For our Timex Luxury watcheswe are totally separate in terms of manufacturing. Our price pointsare completely different. We do, however, have access to thecredibility of the 150-year old Timex brand that helps us whennegotiating with suppliers, for example. Some brands havedecided to set up their own watch division without using anoutside company like yours at all. What is your opinion on thats t ra t e gy ? There are some cases of that working and others where ithas failed. The key point is the capacity to create a dedicated teamwho understands your product, that team can be internal orexternal; there isn’t much difference really. If you do it internally,you have complete control but your investment is very high. Wh a tare your plans for the future with the Timex Group? We arelooking to bring on another watch license. I can’t tell you who itwill be yet... I don’t know who it will be. Certain brands came to usand we’re still negotiating with them. We’ll have more news foryou soon.

I N T E RV I E W Paolo Marai, presidentof Timex Group Luxury DivisionTEXT MATT MORLEY

TW Steel and RAGE (Rhino ActionGroup Effort) have collaborated toproduce a four-model watchcollection incorporating theRAGE logo in an effort to raisefunds for the battle against rhinopoaching. Fifty percent of allproceeds from the sale of theRhinorage collection willcontribute directly towards thefight against rhino poaching in SA,with RAGE assisting in ensuringthat the funds are used where they areneeded most.w w w. t w s t e e l r h i n o ra g e. co. z a

See behind the scenes as the team put this shot together ata t l a r g e w i t h w a n t e d. t u m b l r. co m

S a l va t o reFe r ra g a m oMinuetto.Versace DVOne Skeleton