ender 3 pro and duet maestro guide part 1: wiringender 3 pro and duet maestro guide part 3:...

Duet3D

Ender 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Part 1:Wiring

Converting the stock Creality Ender 3 Pro to use the Duet Maestro. Part 1 - Mounting and Wiringthe board.

Written By: Jason Znack

Ender 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Par… Draft: 2020-02-06Guide ID: 37 -

This document was generated on 2020-02-09 07:35:08 AM (MST).

© 2020 duet3d.dozuki.com/ of 19

INTRODUCTION

The Creality Ender 3 has become a very popular low cost printer option. It's not without itsdownsides, however. Loud motors, drivers, and fans can be maddening, and the lack of a dynamicweb interface and network connection makes interacting with it more painful than it needs to be. Thisis not to mention the lack of thermal runaway protection in the Creality build of Marlin.

However, the small build volume, smaller motors, and single extruder design is a perfect fit for therecently released Duet Maestro electronics board, which brings the power and flexibility ofRepRapFirmware into a smaller, lower cost package, while still maintaining powerful and quietTrinamic drivers.

The combination of low cost but well built printer frame and suitable mechanics with the power andflexibility of the Duet Maestro and RepRapFirmware work together to create a very affordable andcapable machine.

This series of guides will go through the process of upgrading a stock Ender 3 Pro with a DuetMaestro, from wiring, to firmware configuration, and basic tuning steps. Later guides will go intomore advanced feature upgrades like installing alternate fans, LED lighting, and Z probes like theBLTouch.

Even though these guides will show an Ender 3, the procedures shown can be applied to otherCartesian printers.

Other guides in this series:

Ender 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Part 1: WiringEnder 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Part 2: ConfigurationEnder 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Part 3: CommissioningEnder 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Part 4: CalibrationEnder 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Part 5: Upgrades

Steps found in this guide:

PreparationDisassemblyModifying Front PanelMounting the MaestroCrimping and ConnectionsReassembly




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+2:+Configuration/38

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+3:+Commissioning/39

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+4:+Calibration/40

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+5:+Upgrades/54

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+1:+Wiring/37#s109






TOOLS:The bag of tools that came with the printer (1)Allen hex keys (M2 M3 M4) (1)Flat blade screw driver (1)Phillips #1 screw driver (1)Flush cutters (1)Crimping tools (1)Pliers (1)Wire strippers and cutters (1)Rotary tool with cutting disk (Optional) (1)Hand drill and bits (Optional) (1)Hand files (Optional) (1)

PARTS:Ender 3 Pro (1)Duet 2 Maestro (1)Additional 10-way ribbon cable for the

LCD. (Optional) (1)3D Printed Mounting Bracket for the

Maestro (1)




Step 1 — Preparation

Once you have your Ender 3 pro upand running, you’ll want to plan outyour upgrade path before taking itapart. At the very least you’ll needan adapter to mount the DuetMaestro board in the Ender 3electronics enclosure.

Download link:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:361268...

You also have the option ofreplacing the enclosure entirely withsomething of your choosing. Thereare a few printable enclosureoptions on Thingiverse. Though ifyou go this route, you may need toextend some of the wiring.

Download link:https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=end...

Next, go through the LCD menu andrecord certain details about thefirmware settings, mainly axislength, steps per mm, acceleration,max speed, and jerk settings. Thiswill be required when we use theRepRapFirmware Web Configuratorto prepare our starting configurationfiles.




https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3612685

https://www.thingiverse.com/search?q=ender+3+maestro&dwh=65cd0aef5c800a

See here for a more detailedbreakdown of what information isrequired and how to obtain it:Adapting an existing printer toDuet

Most of this information can also befound in the Marlin Configuration.hfile. Your SD card from Creality maycontain the Marlin files, and it can bedownloaded from the Crealitywebsite or GitHub repository.

Download link:https://www.creality3d.cn/download/sourc...

Step 2 — Disassembly

First, we need to take the old Creality board out. Disconnect and remove the display from theframe. Then disconnect the Z end stop wire from the end stop. This will make the next stepseasier. Now remove the screws holding the electronics enclosure together. Two on the front, twoon top, and 3 underneath.

Once the electronics enclosure is loose, you can take the base off and expose the board. Removethe 4 screws holding down the board to the plate. Set all the screws aside where you won’t losethem.




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Going_from_Marlin_on_Arduino_to_RepRapFirmware_on_Duet

https://www.creality3d.cn/download/source-code_c0001

Step 3 — Disconnecting the Old Electronics

Creality has secured the plugs with a blob of hot glue as strain relief, which is nice, but kind of apain in our case. Carefully use a small flat blade screw driver to pry the glue blob off the connector.In my case the glue wasn’t very strong and the connector came loose with a little prying.

Before unplugging the connectors, make sure they are properly labeled and maybe take a pictureto help identify where everything goes again for reassembly or if you ever wanted to revert back tothe stock setup.




Step 4 — Modifying the Case Front Panel

Because the front plate of the enclosure doesn’t have the necessary cutouts for the Maestro, we’llhave to make some alterations. First test fit the Maestro board and mark the inside of the frontplate for where you need to cut.

You’ll need access to the Ethernet port, the SD card slot, the micro USB connector, and the resetbutton. You may also want to have some holes to see the status LEDs.

I’ll leave it up to you how you modify the plate. In my case I used a drill and a rotary tool with areinforced cutting wheel to make a rough cut, and then used a file to clean up the edges.




Step 5 — Maestro Mounting Adapter

Attach the adapter mount to the plate using the 4 original screws. Then attach the Maestro to themount using 4 6mm M3 screws. Use the clear plastic washers that came with the Maestro in thebag of connectors.

Download link for the adapter bracket: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:361268...




https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3612685

Step 6 — Re-Crimping the Connectors

Next, we will re-terminate the wires using the provided crimp connectors. How you connect thewires to the board is up to you, but in this case, we will be snipping off the existing connector,stripping the ends, and re-crimping a new connector that fits the Maestro specifically.

The only exception is the motor plugs, which we will modify slightly so they can plug into theMaestro as is. Pay close attention to the orientation of the Creality plugs and the markings on theCreality board in order to preserve polarity of the connectors.

Take out and sort the connector ends that came with the Maestro. You’ll need a crimping tool.

Crimping Tool Thread 1

Crimping Tool Thread 2

How to Crimp Video

It can also be helpful to use the wiring diagram found here to help guide you.

Duet 2 Maestro Wiring Diagram




https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/9852/crimping-tool

https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/6127/recommendation-for-insul-crimp-terminals-crimping-tool

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nvPESov0HbY

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_2_Maestro_Wiring_Diagram

Step 7 — Fan Connections

The Duet 2 Maestro has three controlled fan connectors FAN0, FAN1 and FAN2 plus one always-on fan connector. Make note of which fan is which from the Ender 3 board.

The fan voltage is jumper-selectable in 2 blocks. Ensure that the jumpers next to the fanconnectors are set to the correct position. These jumpers select the voltage that will go to the fanpins. In our case, the Ender 3 uses 24v and the stock fans are also 24v, so we will leave thejumper bridging the VFAN pin with VIN.

In my case, the part cooling fan has the yellow (+) and blue (-) wires, and the hot end heatsink fanhas unterminated bare red (+) and black (-) wires, and the case fan has a terminated red (+) andblack (-) wires.

The part cooling fan will plug into Fan0, the hot end fan into Fan1, and the case fan into Fan2.

The always on fan connector can be used for another fan, or even LED lighting.

Further information on connecting fans can be found here on the wiki.

Connecting and configuring fans




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans

Step 8 — Power Supply and Bed Heater Connections

The power supply leads and the bed heater will use the blue spade terminals. You will need asuitable crimper tool for these as well.

Note the polarity. Black (-) and red (+). Check for silkscreen markings on the PCB near theconnectors. Or Check the wiring diagram.

You will need to bend the spade terminals up a bit to fit into the case as we will see duringreassembly.

Further information on power supplies and bed heaters can be found here on the wiki.

Choosing and connecting a bed heater

Choosing the power supply

Power Wiring

Duet 2 Maestro Wiring Diagram




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_a_bed_heater#Section_Low_voltage_12V_or_24V_DC_bed_heater

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_the_power_supply

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Power_Wiring

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Duet_2_Maestro_Wiring_Diagram

Step 9 — Hot End Heater Connection

The hot end heater should ideally use the included bootlace ferrules. (White plastic with roundtube) but due to the tight quarters of the Ender 3 Pro case, we will use the bare wires directly in thescrew down terminal block.

Ensure that the wires are twisted tightly together, insert the wire end completely into the E0 heaterterminal, and screw it down firmly.

You may need to trim the length of the bare wire so that it fits entirely within the connector with novisible wire strands.

If you do wish to use the ferrules with the stock enclosure, you will likely need to make a smallcutout for clearance, or use a different enclosure all together.

Further information on hot end heaters can be found in the wiki.

Connecting extruder heaters




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_extruder_heaters

Step 10 — Stepper Motor Connections

The stepper motor connectors technically do not need to be re-crimped, however the ridges on themotor plugs that ensure they can only be plugged in one way to the Creality board need to beclipped off. A pair of side cutters works well.

This has the advantage of saving a lot of time crimping as well as keeping all the wires in thecorrect order. However, it does have the disadvantage of no longer being keyed, so you mustensure they are plugged into the board the right way around.

The side of the plug that you snipped the guides off will go towards the white pillar of the boardconnector. It may help to mark this side of the motor plug with a dot to help you keep track.

If the motor connections are plugged in the wrong way round, no damage to the electronics willoccur, but the motors will run backwards. You'll either need to flip the plug or change the motordirection in software.

Further information on connecting motors can be found here on the wiki.

Choosing and connecting stepper motors




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Choosing_and_connecting_stepper_motors

Step 11 — Thermistor Connections

The thermistors do not have a polarity, but you must connect them to the right place.

The hotend thermistor connects to E0 TEMP

The bed thermistor connects to BED TEMP.

Re-crimping them with the proper locking connector will help ensure they are not easily pulled free.

Further information on thermistors can be found here on the wiki.

Connecting thermistors or PT1000 temperature sensors

Connecting thermocouples

Connecting PT100 temperature sensors




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_thermistors_or_PT1000_temperature_sensors

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_thermocouples

https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_PT100_temperature_sensors

Step 12 — End Stop Switch Connections

The end stop connectors will need tobe redone. The Creality end stopswitches have only two wires forsignal and ground, but the Maestroend stop connectors have 3 wires:signal, ground and 3.3v power.

We will use the 3 wide connectorand place the wires in the outer twospots, leaving the centerunpopulated. The order of the twowires does not matter, so long asthey are connected to the outsidepins only.

Further information on connectingend stops can be found here on thewiki.

Connecting endstop switches




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_endstop_switches

Step 13 — 12864 LCD Panel Connections

Lastly, we will need to connect the 12864 LCD board using the included ribbon cable as well as ouradditional ribbon cable. We will be using the EXP1 and EXP2 pin blocks on the Maestro board toconnect to EXP1 and EXP2 connector ports on the back of the Ender 3 12864 display PCB.

If you are using two 10-way ribbon cables you will have to reverse the plastic shell of EXP1 andEXP2 on the LCD by pulling them off gently but firmly with a pair of pliers, rotating 180 degreesand then reinserting them on the pins. This will keep the pins aligned properly as the ribbon cableconnectors are keyed.

Alternatively, you can use the ribbon cable that came with the Ender 3 for EXP2 and use jumperwires with Dupont connectors to connect directly to the needed pins. See this forum thread formore information on this method. https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/7609/conf...




https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/7609/configuring-12864-lcd-on-maestro/24

Step 14 — LCD Wired up

Once the connectors are flipped, plug in the two 10-way ribbon cables.

And finally, reattach the LCD. It may help to label the ends of the 10-way cables so you knowwhich is EXP1 and which is EXP2.

Part 2 of this guide will cover the configuration needed to get the LCD working. For now, moving onto finish up the wiring.




Step 15 — Reassembly - Onto Frame

Once you’ve got everything wired up you can reinstall the case onto the frame.

You may find it easier to disconnect some wires temporarily and reconnect them once it’s installed.It’s a tight fit, but it will all fit. I suggest leaving the 2 screws on the front loose and align and tightenthe screw directly under the bed first.

Note that the VIN power, Bed wires, and hot end wires stick out from the edges of the board andwill press up against the side of the case slightly. For the VIN and bed wires you will need to bendthe spade connector upwards to fit back onto the frame.

Once you’ve got all your wires reconnected, you can use some zip ties, etc., to provide some strainrelief for the bundle leaving the case.




Step 16 — Reassembly - Closing up the Case

Now reinstall the bottom plate with the case fan attached. It will take a little bit of wiggling to get thetab past the edge of the board. Once all the small screws are secured, you can finally tighten totwo large screws on the front.

The case fan is installed in the same orientation as it was originally which pulls air out of the case,which should be ideal as it will draw in fresh air through the grills right next to the driver chips. Forthe currents and loads being used on the stock Ender 3 Pro this should be adequate cooling.

Step 17 — Configuration

This concludes the wiring guide. The next guide will go through using the RepRapFirmware Webconfigurator to generate a config file set.

Ender 3 Pro and Duet Maestro Guide Part 2: Configuration




https://duet3d.dozuki.com/Guide/Ender+3+Pro+and+Duet+Maestro+Guide+Part+2:+Configuration/38

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