www.TransformerCycles.com Email: enquiries@transformercycles.com (Technical Support)

Phone: 0121 288 6098 (Sales) Fax: 0121 270 2341

Bicycle Engine Kit Manual 1. Donor Bike Requirements Page: 2 2. General Tips Page: 3 3. Installation Page: 4 4. Starting Procedure Page: 10 5. Maintenance Page: 11 6. Troubleshooting Page: 13 7. Detailed Installation Manual Online Page: 15

8. Procedure for Attaching Cable to Carburettor Throttle Slide Page: 16 9. Procedure for Servicing the Carburettor Page: 17 10. Reducing Noise from the Engine Page: 18 11. Diagrams Page: 19 12. 90 Days Factory Warranty Details Page: 22 13. 12 Month Extended Warranty Details Page: 23

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Donor Bike Requirements Here are the measurements you will need for a perfect fit. It’s impossible to predict whether the kit will fit every type of frame but if you follow the guidelines below you should be fine. It’s also true that one can usually adapt a mount to fit an odd size frame with a bit of creativity but that will depend entirely on your ability to do this part. Take our advice, don't spend that much money on a bicycle that you are going to fit an engine kit onto. In our experience the best bikes are the cheap heavy ones for bicycle engine kits. This doesn't necessarily mean that you have to buy something completely crap but don't spend more than £200 on a bike. You can pick up some fantastic decent quality bikes for that price. Front suspension is fine but the donor bike cannot have rear disc brakes or rear suspension for the kit to fit correctly. It also must have 36 spoked rear wheels for the sprocket to clamp on correctly. Look for a clearance of 14 inches from the crank to the top tube, 20 inch frame size or above is usually okay. Remember with mountain bikes some customization may be required depending on the frame. The kits come with a frame adapter and some bikes require that a hole be drilled into the frame. This is another reason why I urge people not to spend too much on a donor bike you don't want to ruin such a nice bike by putting a hole in the frame. Alternatively if you can get the bike with a beach cruiser frame it will fit on perfectly with no drilling required. These engines were designed primarily to be fitted on to beach cruiser type frames and that is what they fit best on.

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General Tips

One of the things we get asked allot is "what is the correct way to mix fuel for my bicycle engine". So here it is: ------------------------------------------------------------------- The recommended ratio is 18 to 1 for a new engine, after breakin period you can switch to 25 to 1, so lets say you have 5 litres of petrol (a typical canister size) that would be calculated like this: 1000ml in a litre 5 litres of fuel = 5000ml so you do 5000 divided by 18 which = 277 Therefore you would add 277ml of oil to 5 litres of unleaded. If your mixing ratio is 25:1 you just divide the 5000 by 25 etc. ------------------------------------------------------------ For your petrol to flow freely from the tank to carburettor the switch on the tank should be in the open position, example below:

And on the 48cc Gen2 carburettor the position of the switch will need to be as in the example below for fuel to flow freely:

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Always mix petrol and oil in a canister and shake it well before pouring in to the tank. Trying to mix directly in the tank is not the way to do it. It’s better to use the thick greasy stuff like standard 2 stroke oil to break your engine in and then switch to synthetic 2 stroke oil later. Here's another piece of essential advice: For the first 2 full tanks of fuel don't go over 15mph and don't ride for more than half an hour at a time. This is essential for the proper break in of the engine and to avoid over heating. After this time power will increase, run smoother and then you can ride like normal. I know its tempting but whatever you do don't blast it while it's breaking in. Also make sure all nuts and bolts on the engine are tight before your first ride. PLEASE NOTE: FUEL FILTERS ARE NOT INCLUDED WITH OUR KITS BUT CAN BE PICKED UP AT YOUR LOCAL MOTORCYCLE AUTOMOTIVE STORE FOR AROUND £1.50p, CUT YOUR FUEL LINE IN HALF AND INSTALL IN BETWEEN TO STOP DEBRIS FROM THE TANK GETTING INTO YOUR CARBURETTOR, THEREBY CAUSING FUEL OVERFLOW.

Installation Note: Mechanical aptitude and ability is required to perform this installation. Many “do it yourself” backyard mechanics will find this project rewarding. A love of bicycles and small engines is the only required catalyst for this project. However, installation is sometimes best done by a professional auto or motorcycle mechanic. Older style bikes with 1 inch dia. to 30mm dia. steel 70 degree included angle frames require fewer modifications to install the engine than do the later Taiwan bikes with large dia. down tube frames. We do not recommend what bike to use, but Cruiser type bikes work well. It is best to take your engine to the bike shop and compare fitting before buying a new bike. A rewarding joy and challenge is found in designing a custom installation of your own. Remember, a quality installation is paramount to safe usage and long term satisfaction. Have fun and good luck on your motorized bike project.

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ID plate on left:

Brand decal on right

STEP 1 Mounting Engine to your Bicycle: 1. The engine mounts in the bike frame “Vee” above the peddle wheel sprocket. (see figure 1) 2. Consider using Masking or Duct Tape on the front down-tube & seat tube of your bicycle to protect the paint finish while test fitting the engine to your donor bike. If the distance between the two bars exceeds the engine mounting span then additional spacers or welded brackets are required. Mount the engine to the seat tube first and then fit to the front tube. Figure 1

Bikes with large front frame tube: Use ¼” thick 1-1/8” x 2-1/2” steel plate with one hole in the center for a bolt to go through a drilled hole in tube frame and two holes for cap screws to go into engine block. Additional spacers maybe required depending on the donor bike. (see figure 2)

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Figure 2. This adapter plate is included in kit.

3. If the rear frame tube from the seat down to the pedal sprocket is too small to fit the rear engine mount, a rubber shim can be made from an old bicycle rubber inner tube. This also helps reduce engine vibration. 4. After the desired engine location is determined mount the engine to frame. Lock nuts and or use of Loctite is recommended to avoid loosening due to vibration. Note: All threads are metric.

STEP 2 Chain Wheel Sprocket Installation: The Drive Chain Sprocket has a 36.9 mm dia. center hole and mounts on axel hub on the left side of the rear wheel against the spokes dish side in. The sprocket must fit over the hub in a perpendicular plane with the axle. This insures that your rear chain sprocket spins true with the rear bike wheel. *NOTE: On some older bike axle hubs like on coaster brake models it may be required to slightly enlarge the sprocket center hole to obtain a flush, and concentric fit next to the spokes. This is best done on a engine lathe by a professional machinist.. . It is also recommended that the rear wheel be re-spooked to 12 ga. spoke wires to insure long life. Most Bike shops can do this operation for you. Applying thread adhesive and equal tightening of the sprocket bolts. This keeps the chain sprocket true with axle and free from wobble while spinning. With the bike is upside down spin the wheel and check sprocket for wobble. The chain can jump off the sprocket if the sprocket installation is done incorrectly. ( Note: For the professional installation our special HD axel kit for 26” wheel with hub flange for quick direct sprocket chain wheel mounting is available. See: below for details: ) Standard Kit Sprocket installation: Locate sprocket on axel hub with curved side next to spokes, shinny side in. Install rubber isolator to fit INSIDE the spokes and around axle. Install the split steel retainer plates next to the rubber isolator and insert 9 bolts 1. Secure with 9 bolts compressing the chain sprocket to the spokes. Note: Rubber isolators may be needed on both sides of sprocket for chain alignment on some non-coaster brake bikes.

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2. The Chain Sprocket on the Wheel must align within 1/2 cm to the Chain Sprocket on the Engine. 3. The wheel chain sprocket is mounted with teeth-out and dish-in next to spokes (bright chrome facing inwards). As in the example below:

Note: If the chain touches the bottom bike frame tube to the left of the chain sprocket you may turn it bright chrome facing outwards but make sure the chain does not rub against your tires.

STEP 3 Fitting the drive chain The drive chain can be easily shortened to the correct length. Special tools are required to remove and replace the master link when shortening the chain by removing links. Ideally, both your pedal drive chain and your engine drive chain should have the same tension. A. Remove left rear cover plate from engine. This is the plate next to and under the clutch swing arm. B. Select chain: The engine has the standard drive sprocket already installed for narrow standard bike chain. If the 415 heavy duty chain is desired, remove the narrow drive sprocket from the engine and install wide tooth primary drive sprocket to match the 415 chain. ( Note: wide tires may rub on the wide 415HD chain: ) C. Use supplied spark-plug wrench to turn engine crankshaft sprocket to feed chain around it. Do not pry sprocket with a screwdriver or similar object. D. Fit chain, measure and remove excess links to assure proper length. Be sure master link connection rides on the inboard side of the primary drive sprocket or interference of link and sprocket can occur. Proper chain length is when top chain has ¼ inch to ½” deflection with the bottom side of the chain loop tight. E. Chain tension adjustments can be made by pulling rear wheel back if frame has straight slot wheel drop out. If both chains can be adjusted equally then installing chain idler on the wheel strut may not be necessary. At installer’s discretion the chain idler can be installed on either the pedal chain or engine drive chain.

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F. Install supplied chain safety guard by attaching to engine and wheel axle struts. STEP 4 CDI Ignition installation: A) Mount CD ignition coil on bike frame, close enough to attach coil wire to spark plug. Mount as far away from exhaust pipe as possible to avoid heat damage to semiconductors in CDI module. B) Attach CD ignition coil wires to same identical colour coded wires coming from engine. C) Route all wires away from engine exhaust heat. Secure wires with a plastic tie straps.

STEP 5 Gen II Clutch cable installation and adjustment: A) Install clutch lever to left side of handlebar and attach cable end to lever. B) Squirt oil down the cable sleeve: Route clutch cable through the ball-mount on motor with the big spring around the cable jacket and ahead of the ball mount. The big spring serves as a cable heat shield. C) Insert cable wire through small spring and route through clutch arm and attach brass cable-end and screw. Adjust cable tension to allow very slight play in arm. Handlebar clutch lever or twist clutch must be in the released or outward position to complete this operation D) Activate lever a few times, and check clutch arm for slight free play: About 1/16” free play is OK. Re-adjust if needed. Basics of clutch operation: The clutch lever pulls the cable that moves the clutch arm. In turn the clutch arm pushes a rod through the motor that pushes the clutch plate (similar to a car clutch.) Releasing the clutch lever engages the engine torque to the drive chain. The clutch allows engine to start, and engage or disengage engine torque to the drive chain. When the bike is in the pedal mode the handle bar clutch lever is locked inward in the catch notch. The bike then operates in default as it would without any engine. Periodic clutch adjustment is necessary to maintain efficient operation *NOTE: Cut off excess cable from clutch arm, before operation, to avoid possible interference with pedals, chain, your legs, etc. See Figure 4. Figure 4

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STEP 6 Throttle and kill switch installation:

NOTE: White wire may be used for kill switch or for small 6V head light. If white wire is used for head light insert kill switch black wire in blue wire connection as shown. If head light used be sure to use off / on swt. to grd. Off position when starting engine. If you dont use the white wire just connect blue to blue and black to black. Then just connect the kill switch black wire to the blue wire and the red kill switch wire to bike frame to make it grounded. WARNING !! Operation of engine without stop or kill switch installed could result in personal injury if an emergency stop is required! The only alternate non recommended way of killing the engine is by releasing the clutch lever with bike brakes on and engine at slowest idle and wheel brakes on.

STEP 7 Fuel Tank installation:

A) Attach fuel petcock to tank. Use Teflon tape to seal threads. Careful not to strip threads. B) Mount tank on bike top crossover frame with two supplied brackets and nuts. C) Attach fuel line from tank to carburettor. Best to use USA made fuel line like GoodYear SAE 30-7 4.8mm obtained from local automotive stores like AutoZone. Factory supplied clear plastic line gets hard over a period of time. *NOTE: Filters are contained in the petcock and in the carburettor inlet. If engine runs poorly clean the valve filter as residue from the tank may have clogged it. It is highly recommend that a tank liner coating be applied inside the tank before installation. This product is available from motorcycle dealers by the trade name of “KREEM” and is made in Somas, CA. USA.

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Starting Procedure Gas and Oil Mixture for Fuel ratio: The engine is a 2 cycle design, therefore, a gasoline/oil mixture is necessary. During the break-in period (1st gallon of fuel), the ratio is 18 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. After the break-in period, the ratio can increased to 25 parts gasoline to 1 part oil. Synthetic oil specially made for 2 cycle engines can also be used. Break In; An engine cylinder with piston steel sleeve liner requires break-in time: A rich oil mixture ensures rings will seat and bearings wear -in: Note: As`wear–in or break-in occurs power will increase. Seized pistons due to improper oil mix are not consider warranty: Consult your dealer for his recommendations on oil/gas mix and best oil available in your country. WARNING! Remember safety first: Wipe up any spilled fuel. NEVER fuel a hot engine or smoke while fueling. This could result in sudden fire, personal injury. Always move your motorized bike at least 10 feet from any fueling area before attempting to start it. Never leave the tank fuel cap off after fueling as rain water will contaminate the fuel and cause engine failure. Starting procedure for Lever Clutch Models: 1. Open the fuel valve. Small lever pointed down with fuel line is in the open position. 2. Depress the small round cap plunger, (Tickle button ), to prime carburettor. Located on left side of the carburettor next to the idle adjust-screw. One or two times is enough. 3. Lift choke lever to the upward position. This is the small lever on the right side of the carburettor. All the way up the choke is on. All the way down the choke is off. Move progressively downward to off position during engine warm up period. 4. Pull the handlebar clutch lever inward, to disengage the engine from the rear wheel. 5. Pedal; (down-hill if possible for first start) A mid frame bike wheel stand is helpful to start the engine in place. 6. Let out the clutch lever all the way out and continuing to pedal. The result is a direct engine hook up with the rear wheel via chain and sprocket and the engine will now start spinning, Pedal until motor starts. Accelerate slowly at first.. 7. Twist throttle to increase speed, reverse twist throttle to decrease speed. To stop, disengage clutch and apply brakes. To accelerate, pedal and release clutch while opening throttle. 8. Adjust choke to the smoothest engine running position. 9. After warm up push choke lever all the way down. If engine races too fast, or too slow, pull clutch lever and lock in the notched catch, stop and adjust engine rpm. 10. If the rpm needs adjusting, turn the idle adjust screw (left side of carburettor) in or out slowly to obtain the proper idle speed of about 1400 rpm +/- 100 rpm To correctly break the engine in, Do not

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exceed 15 mph or 30 min. continual running for the first 50 miles during engine brake in. Engine will develop more power after break in. 11. To stop the engine, push Kill switch and turn off gas valve at tank. Turning off the gas will prevent fuel from being siphoned from tank. Warning Note: Never leave the tank gas valve in “open” position” when engine is not running or the bike is in storage. 12. After or before each ride check all mounting fasteners, including hd. bolts, axle and brakes. 13. Warning Note: Engine lock up or piston seizure due to improper gas / oil mixture will not be covered by factory warranty. It is the responsibility of the owner / operator to make sure the gas and oil is mixed correctly.

Maintenance

*Clutch Adjust Nut

1. How to Adjust Clutch if signs of slipping or squealing are encountered :

A) Disengage clutch by pulling handle bar clutch lever inward and lock into catch lock.

B) Remove right side engine clutch cover and remove small locking screw on center *Clutch Adjust Nut.

C) Pull clutch arm on left rear engine inward. Back off *Clutch Adjust Nut ¼ turn counterclockwise.

D) Release clutch lever and check for slight clutch arm 1/16” free-play on opposite side of engine. Readjust *Clutch Adjust Nut as required to get required 1/6” clutch arm free play.

E) Tighten *Clutch Adjust Nut on clutch plate clockwise until just snug.

F) Then re-install small locking screw in outer edge of *Clutch Adjust Nut.

G) Good idea to place a small gob of grease at gear mesh area. Use grease sparingly! Then replace cover.

H) Squirt light grade oil down clutch cable sheathing to reduce friction and make for easy lever pull. 2. Carburetor

After every 5 hours of operation check the adjustment of the mixture screw by rotating screw clockwise until seated and then rotate screw 4½ turns back counterclockwise. Depending on dusty riding conditions, clean air filter every 5 to 20 hours of operation by removing the filter cover to access the screen and

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element. Wash element with a degreasing agent such as Simple Green™ or Purple Stuff™. Be sure element is completely dry before re-assembly.

IMPORTANT: If engine runs poorly clean tank shut off value filter.

3. Spark Plug

Remove spark plug and inspect for excess carbon build up. Clean, re-gap to .028- .034 of an inch if necessary. Check plug after every 20 hours of operation. New spark plugs are available from your selling dealer. Be careful using aftermarket spark plugs as heat range and threads differ greatly. Extra plug is included with kit.

4. Exhaust system

After 50 hours of operation check exhaust pipe for excessive oil and carbon build-up. Be sure to use supplied support strap to secure exhaust muffler to a solid anchor point on bike frame or engine.

Note: An engine that runs poorly can be due to a clogged up muffler.

A) Remove exhaust pipe cap by loosening the retaining screw.

B) Pull cap and baffle out of pipe.

C) Clean with degreaser, rinse and dry.

D) Re-assemble *NOTE: Excessive periods of low speed operation, idling or leaving fuel petcock in the “on” position during shut down periods may cause the pipe to become clogged with unburned fuel.

5. Chain

A) Every time bike is ridden check the tension of the drive chain by:

B) Rolling to bicycle forward to remove slack from the bottom of the chain.

C) Find the centre and push downward on the top of chain while measuring the deflection.

D) Tighten chain if deflection is more than ½ inch.

6. Head Bolts

Tighten all fasteners after each five hours of operation. Most important to check Cylinder head bolts: Tighten in an X pattern to 8 to 9 ft/lb. using a torque wrench. A two piece cylinder and head design engine requires head bolts be kept tight. Important: Check head bolts before each and every long ride, vibration can cause them to loosen and blow a head gasket.

Caution: Do not over torque or head bolts may break off. (Twisted or broken head bolts due to over tightening are not covered by warranty.)

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7. Right side gears Remove cover plate and keep small amount of heavy grease on gear train. Do not over grease as leaks will occur and also may adversely affect clutch operation. Regular greasing will help reduce gear wear and keep gear train quiet.

8. Left side drive

Routinely pack grease in the shaft hole behind 10T sprocket and also in cover bushing hole. This will also help reduce noise.

ENGINE WARRANTY POLICY: Proper use and maintenance is important for the continued enjoyment of your Bike Engine. This product has been manufactured to strict quality control standards. For customer assurance there is a 90 day Warranty starting from the date of original purchase from an authorized dealer: Warranty approval is subject to factory inspection and only the defective part or parts will be replaced, not the complete kit.

TROUBLE SHOOTING Common reasons why an engine will not start first time … To find the needle unscrew the round cap where throttle cable enters the head of the carburetor …. Inside the black cylinder there is a little gold needle on the end of the throttle cable which has 5 notches on it with a black clip attached, make sure the clip is on the 3rd notch from the bottom, and then put it back together for all GEN2 engines. For 69.7cc GT4 and 58cc GEN2A the black clip should be on the 2nd notch from the bottom and there are only three notches on the needle. It’s important to note these are only guidelines; you can play about with the clip on different notches to see which gives you the best performance.

The tickle button is a feature of the 69.7cc GT4 and 58cc GEN2A engines press it 2 times to get fuel into the carburetor before your first start of the engine, on the 48cc Gen2 there is no tickle button they are not needed on this model as it uses a different type of carburetor.

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Another common reason why a new engine will not start is … Sometimes a new clutch needs a little adjustment just in case its slipping, Open the gear cover (big cover on the right side) here you will find a tiny screw called the clutch locking screw. Make sure the handlebar clutch lever is pressed and locked inward and then take this screw out completely and turn the outer screw Clockwise by two notches to start with, then put the tiny screw back in its place. I have attached a picture below to help you. Now put the cover back on and try to start as usual. It should start, if it doesn’t turn the outer screw by a further 2 notches and try again.

Another reason why it may not start is if the wires are touching each other: Could you check the wiring as well please? CDI BLACK WIRE TO ENGINE BLACK WIRE CDI BLUE OR GREEN WIRE TO ENGINE BLUE OR GREEN WIRE BLACK WIRE FROM KILL SWITCH TO ENGINE BLUE WIRE RED WIRE FROM KILL SWITCH TO BIKE FRAME (GROUNDED) Do not use the white wire for anything and all wires should be sealed with black tape or the heat shrink provided, if they touch each other the engine will not start or behave erratically. Also unscrew the CDI wire from the boot and the base and cut 5mm from each end. Now re-screw each end back into the plug cap and the CDI base, to give better current flow and a stronger spark. Make sure the choke lever which is on the right side of the engine is all the way up when starting and gradually moved to the completely downward position as soon as the engine is started.

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If there is fuel coming out the overflow pipe of the carb 48cc Gen2, it means a little dirt may have gotten in. To rectify this keep the white petrol switch on the carb in the horizontal position (off position) and start the engine, let the engine run until there is no more fuel left in the carb and the engine dies. Now put the switch back to the ON (VERTICAL) position and start and ride as normal it should be o.k.

When completed, close the chain using the master link and remember to have the closed end of the clip facing the direction the chain is being pulled in by the engine otherwise it will come apart.

Another thing which I can’t recommend enough is you need to seal the magneto cover with some sealant or gasket maker paste to stop any rain water getting onto the magneto. If water gets onto the magneto it will short the wiring and fail. Once you seal the magneto cover you can ride in the rain with no problems.

Detailed Installation Manual Online

A more concise and step by step installation manual can be found on our website page below. We keep it on the server so it is always up to date, you must read the online installation manual before proceeding with installation (remember the online manual is the best installation manual available, it is different from the one with your kit), although not all parts will apply to your specific build depending on the bike frame you use. Type the address below into your browser: www.transformercycles.com/protected/detailed.htm You will be asked for a username and password: Username: detailed Password: instructions

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Procedure for Attaching Cable to Carburettor Throttle Slide

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Procedure for Servicing the Carburettor Here’s some steps to take if you think the float level inside the carburetor is too high leading to fuel overflow:

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Reducing Noise from The Engine

Below we have listed the most common noisy areas on a new engine; they normally require a little automotive grease which sorts them out.

These engines perform best after around 500kms, as the engine wears in it will become smoother, quieter and more powerful, lubrication helps to quieten down and speed up the process.

You don't want to put oil between the cogs, it's too light for this application and yes it could get onto the clutch causing it to slip. Get yourself some thick automotive grease like the one below: £3.50p for a big fat can:

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Diagrams (A)

(B)

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(C)

(D)

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(E)

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90 Days Manufacturer's Warranty

Q. How does it work? All Transformer Cycles kits are manufactured to the highest possible standards, but we do understand that sometimes things can go wrong, and so we have tried to make the process of getting you back on the road as simple as possible. There are two ways that we do this:

1. If any of your kit should fail under normal operation within 90 days of the date of purchase, all you have to do is send

the damaged parts/part to the address below with your engine serial number. We will inspect the parts and send out

your replacements immediately. The replacement parts will be covered by your warranty but you will have to pay

the weight of the postage cost of sending the items to you. We will request this payment before we send your

replacement parts out. Please note we do not make anything on the postage cost you pay exactly what it costs.

2. For those of you who are not confident enough to do the repair work yourselves you should send in only the engine

with carburettor and throttle cable. Do not send in the front or rear motor mounts and the motor mounting studs.

We will notify you as soon as we receive your engine and our technicians will inspect. Depending on the damage or

the fault, we will either repair or replace the whole unit for you. Again all the expenses will be covered by warranty

but we will ask you to pay the postage cost of sending the repair or replacement back to you. Once this has been

received it will be sent out immediately.

3. Address to send to:

Warranty Dept.

Transformer House

24 Theresa Road

Spark brook

Birmingham

B11 1HB

In both cases you should contact us beforehand to receive authorization for your warranty. You must include your engine serial number with anything you send to be repaired or replaced and the return address that you would like the repair or replacement sent back to as well. Our stated turnaround time on paper is 30 days but we usually get this done within a week or so. So just bear with us, we will have you back on the road. What is not covered by warranty?

1. Breaking head bolts or stripping studs due to over tightening.

2. Piston seizure due to not following the correct fuel ratio.

3. Scratches or dents from your bicycle falling over on its side.

4. Items which are considered consumables e.g. throttle cables, clutch cables, clutch pads etc.

And that's about all there is to it really.

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12 Months Extended Warranty

Extended Warranty GENERAL TERMS & CONDITIONS 1. Warranty is not transferable to second owners. 2. All Warranty items must be returned to Transformer Cycles (TC) for inspection. TC is responsible for warranty determination and will inspect all returned parts to validate and confirm if truly a factory defect. TC will service the warranty if considered justified. 3. All warranty claims to be submitted on a TC ‘Electronic Warranty claim Form’ (available on request via email). Warranty Claim must clearly describe the defect in detail. The defective part defects are required to be posted to TC along with copy of end users purchase receipt showing name and address of end user and date of sale and engine serial number. 4. All claims must go to TC for approval. 5. Operation of products in ways contrary to their intended use is considered abuse and is not covered by warranty. 6. It is the end user/customer responsibility to return the product for warranty service to TC. 7. Starfire Engine Kit Extended Warranty: 12 months from date of sale to the end user from TC. Consumable items are not covered by warranty i.e.; tank, chain, sprockets, guard, controls, cables, idler, service parts or accessories, etc. Only the defective part will be replaced or credited, not the complete engine, unless our technicians deem it damaged beyond economical repair! 8. This warranty covers the complete replacement of the engine kit in cases where the kit is beyond economical repair in the opinion of TC’s Technicians. WHAT IS NOT COVERED BY THE WARRANTY 1. Breaking head bolts or stripping studs due to over tightening. 2. Piston seizure due to not following the correct fuel ratio. 3. Scratches or dents from your bicycle falling over on its side. 4. Items which are considered consumables e.g. throttle cables, clutch cables, clutch pads etc Address to send to all warranty parts: Transformer Cycles Ltd Transformer House Warranty Dept. 24 Theresa Road Birmingham B11 1HB enquiries@TransformerCycles.com On behalf of the Transformer Cycles team Customer services.