Demystifying Skin Care for

Massage Therapists

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©Bellanina, LLC. All rights reserved. 03/2014

BELLANINA INSTITUTE for Skin and Body Rejuvenationwww.bellaninainstitute.com 1 800 235 2844

How the course is structured* Six chapters

* Test at the end of each chapter* Once you have successfully submitted a chapter test, you will be sent a link to the next chapter.* When you have successfully completed all six chapters you will receive a certificate for your 4 CEUs.

Demystifying Skin Care

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Our Industry Values Focus People (Work-life

balance) Environment Awareness More Product

Options

Changing World Changing Market

Beauty & Wellness Industry is

Changing

Our industries are challenging each other to

claim ‘rights’ to modalities in

health, wellness and beauty

Crossovers……

DETOXIFICATION SERVICES

BODY EXFOLIATION

BODY POLISHING

MUD WRAPS

CELLULITE REDUCTION

SCALP MASSAGE

HAND & FOOT TREATMENTS

FACELIFT MASSAGE

The New Normal Crossover - Body

Treatments

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New opportunities for business growth by expanding your knowledge Your value can be greater as a healing professional with awareness of greater health choices!

Your Shifting Business

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I. Understanding Skin, The Body’s Largest Organ

II. Skin Concerns & Conditions – Body III. Skin Concerns & Conditions – Face IV. Skin’s needs for health & maintenance

Skin types, 6 step homecare program V. Natural vs. synthetic vs. organic VI. Examining the ingredient ‘myths’ and

‘realities’ The good, bad & ugly of ingredients

VII. General References

Demystifying Skin Care

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THE STRUCTURE OF SKIN & HOW IT WORKS

CAUSES OF AGING

P I. Understanding Skin

The Structure of Your Skin

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The epidermis layer where the natural processof exfoliation occurs. This is the protective layer for the body. The dermis layer is the “living skin”. This layer is contains the collagen and elastin that gives our skin it’s plumpness and elasticity.

The muscular structure gives your face the fullness and shape as it wraps around the skeletal

structure.

Structure of your Skin

EpidermisS

tratum Corneum – the outer most layer of the epidermis

Keratinocytes - the bulk of the cells within the epidermis

Keratin – Protective protein that forms the chemical basis of epidermal tissues

Melanocytes - An epidermal cell that produces melanin, a black to brown skin pigment

Melanin - The primary purpose of melanin is to absorb UV rays.

Langerhans Cells - specialized cells of the immune system that respond to foreign substances coming into contact with the skin.

Merkel Cells - assist in the transfer of mechanical signals from the skin to sensory nerves to the brain.

Epidermal Skin Cells

Life Cycle

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Unspecialized stem cells in the deepest part of the epidermis divide by mitosis. They start to migrate upward toward the skin’s surface.

Along the way they manufacture a tough, resilient protein called keratin.

As the cells migrate upward, they gradually flatten.

Once they are too distant from any blood supply they die.

They remain bonded together by a waterproof adhesive until they are lost as some of the millions of skin flakes that fall from our bodies daily.

INTERESTING FACT:

Humans shed and re-grow outer skin cells approximately every 27 days.

Structure of Skin

DermisC

ollagen - the main structural protein of the all connective tissuesE

lastin - is a protein in connective tissue that is elasticF

ibroblast - a cell that produces and secretes collagenS

ebaceous Glands - secrete an oily/waxy matter, called sebum, to lubricate and waterproof the skin and hair

Sebum - a fatty substance made by the sebaceous glands that help move toxins through the dermis and out to the epidermis, where they can be shed.

Capillaries - the body’s smallest type of blood vessels, deliver nutrients to the skin

Hemoglobin - is the iron-containing protein fpind in red blood cells that transports oxygen

sweat glands, hair follicles, hair-raising arrector pili muscles

Skin Cell Turnover Rate. Is higher in facial skin. Dryness and decreased environmental exposure result in a slower skin cell turnover rate in body skin. The result is less natural exfoliation resulting in often thicker, scalier skin. 

Sebaceousness (Oiliness). Body skin is less oily than facial skin because it has far fewer sebaceous glands. Dryness may be more problematic.

Skin thickness. The facial epidermis is about 0.10mm thick, while body skin is thicker, around 0.60 mm. This environment can lead to a build up of dead skin cells.

Differences between Face and Body Skin

Environment – Extrinsic AgingHeredity – Intrinsic Aging

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Causes of Aging

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EXTRINSIC AGING

Environmental Sun, Wind Harsh, cold climate Ingestion (food, alcohol,

drugs) Gravity, etc

INTRINSIC AGING

Heredity see Fitzpatrick Scale – the

fairer your skin the quicker you age!

Loss of collagen & elastin Loss of facial fat Dry skin Thin and transparent skin

Heredity – “Natural” Aging

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Loss of collagen and elastin

Structural attachment between the dermis and epidermis weakens

Skin sags and thins

Skin renewal process slows

New Theories in Science on Aging

The Wear and Tear TheoryBody and cells decline with use and abuse from stress, overuse, diet, toxins, bacteria, etc.

The Free Radical TheoryJust by breathing and breaking down food, our body creates free radicals, or molecules with unpaired electrons.These unstable molecules make their way through the body, scavenging our cells, trying to snatch up that missing part.

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New Theories in Science on Aging

The Telomerase Theory of AgingFindings that Telomeres, which are sequences of nucleic acids extending from the ends of chromosomes become shortened, frayed and contribute to degeneration of cells.

The Mitochondrial Decline Theory of AgingThe Mitochondria (organelles) found in every cell creates ATP which the body uses for fuel. It becomes less efficient, fewer in number and ATP(Adenosine Triphosphate) production declines.

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New Theories in Science on Aging

The DNA & Genetic TheoryAccumulation of unrepaired DNA damage.

The Acidification TheoryAcid Waste Buildup in system which can be flushed out by an alkaline food and water.

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S.A.D – Standard American Diet

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Chapter 1 Test

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II. Skin Concerns & Conditions - BODY

SKIN CONDITIONS Melanoma (Cancer) Squamous Cell Carcinoma Actinic Keratosis or solar

elastosis Pityraisis Rosea Systemic Lupus (butterfly

rash)

Solar Lentigo (liver spot) Dermatitis Solar Urticaria (Sun Hives) Sunburn

Back Acne

Inflammed hair follicles

Varicose veins

Herpes Simplex

Ringworm

Skin rashes i.e. poison ivy

Adiposis Edematosa (cellulite)

HPV (Human Papiloma Virus)

Warts, Skin Tags, Scabies

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Pityriasis Rosea – Annular Lesions

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Skin Conditons

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Skin Cancer

Know the warning

signs for skin cancer

Be ready to refer to dermatologist

More information at www.skincancer.org

“ABCs” to watch for: A - Asymmetry - not symmetrically

round if you draw a line through it B - Border is irregular C - Color varies, even within the lesion;

may be brown, tan, black, red, white D - Diameter is usually larger than 6

mm, or a pencil eraser E - Evolving, changing in size, shape,

color or crustiness25

Skin Conditions

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Which one of these is NOT cancerous?

Skin Conditions

Refer to chart a,b,c in back of booklet to discuss contagious skin conditions

then BREAK

Fine Lines & Wrinkles

Acne/Blemishes/Rosacea

Hyperpigmentation

Dark or Puffy Eyes

Redundant Skin

Couperose 28

III. Skin Concerns - FACE

Fine Lines and Wrinkles

Epidermal cells become thinner and less sticky

Decreases in moisture causes dryness.

Collagen production decreases and elastin fibers gradually begin to wear out.

Fat cells get smaller and no longer provide even support beneath the tissue.

Muscles loose their tone.

Changes is hormones contribute to decreased estrogen production. This causes a 2% decrease in collagen per year.

Habitual facial expressions (ex grimacing) causes skin to form wrinkles.

The effect of gravity over time causes the skin to loosen and sag (a primary cause of jowls and drooping eye lids).

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Hyperpigmentation

Common, mostly harmless, condition causing areas of skin to become darker than surrounding tissue.

Sometimes referred to as “brown” or“age” or “liver spots”

Caused by over-exposure to the sun and UV rays

Develops on areas frequently exposed to the sun.

Melasma are similar in appearance but are much larger areas of skin. These are the result of hormonal changes in the body.

Dark or Puffy Eyes

Common causes for Dark Eyes include:

Allergies, Eczema Hereditary Lifestyle factors; physical,

emotional stress, smoking, chronic alcohol consumption

Liver Congestion Pigmentation Irregularities Rubbing the eyes Sun exposure (over

production of melanin) Puffy Eyes

(Fluid Retention or Fat Deposits)Common Causes for “bags” include

StressAllergies

Hormone Changes/CryingSleeping or Lack of Sleep

Salty Foods

Redundant Skin

This commonly develops as we age, partially because of the effects of gravity on the skin.

Other causes: Collagen Elastin Loss (thinning skin) Decrease in Hyaluronic Acid (holds

skins outer cells together) Decreased Cell Production Lack of Nutrients (such as Vitamin C) Obesity and Weight Loss UV Damage Facial Muscle Tone

Surgery is the most common treatment Neck exercises involving the tongue can

help tighten the skin naturally and tighten loose skin but with minimal results

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Couperous “Broken Capillaries”

Couperous skin(also called Telangectasias)can be caused by environmental elements (cold, wind, alcohol and tobacco use) as well as thinning skin and Rosacea

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Acne & Blemishes

Acne occurs when the oil glands of the skin become plugged.

It is more common in people with oily skin.

Acne occurs in adolescents and young adults.

In acne there are blackheads (the plugs found in blocked-off oil glands), whiteheads (pimples), or red bumps on the face, neck, and shoulders.

Blemishes caused by hormones, cellular debris, possibly diet.

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IV. Skin’s needs for health and maintenance

Repairing skin is a combination of factors:Feeding the skin with NUTRITION through

INGESTION (supplements, food and water!)

TOPICALLY (treatments and homecare products and massage)

Exposure to the for at least 15 minutes a day for Vitamin DCreating CIRCULATION via massage or exercise

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ALSO TIME ANDCOMMITMENT!

Healthy Skin - Diet

The food we eat has a major impact on the look and appearance of our skin

Vitamins and minerals will help to keep your skin looking smoother

and younger

Beneficial ingredients include

Selenium

Omega 3’ fatty acids

B vitamins

Antioxidants found in

Vitamin C (fruits)

THE LIST GOES ON AND ON…..

In short….eat healthy for good skin!

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Healthy Skin - Exercise

Exercise is not only good for your heart and muscles, it is great for

keeping your skin looking younger, longer

Increased circulation helps to clear toxins from the body and increase the delivery of essential nutrients to the skin cells

Provides optimal conditions for collagen production which will help reduce the formation of wrinkles

Can reduce the pockets of cellulite of “cottage cheese” that develop on fatty areas of the body such as the thighs and butt

Exercises such as yoga can help increase blood flow to the face (supplying the skin with more nutrients) and provide a“facelift” benefit from backwards poses by exercising the facial muscles 37

Healthy Skin - Treatments

Receiving a Facial Treatment such as a deep pore cleaning, occasional deep exfoliation or Bellanina Facelift Massage keeps the skin stimulated and healthy!

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Potent Anti-Aging Ingredients

DNA Repair Stem Cell Serum DNA Repair Creme

(Telomere repair)Anti-oxidants

Vitamin C Serum 12% Alpha Lipoic Acid

Peptides Copper Peptide Luminous Peptide

Serum

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Healthy Skin - Homecare

CIRCULATION & ENERGY FLOWMassaging your face in an upward fashion each day when you wash your face keeps it healthy!

Pressing acupressure points stimulate energy flow and tissue cleansing. 40

Determining Skin Type

Symptom Y NDull Color

Acne

Shiny or Greasy

Enlarged pores

Symptom Y NBlotchy

Flushed

Broken Veins

Reactive to products

Symptom Y NFlaking

Fine Lines

Dehydrated

Itching

Symptom Y NSmooth

Even tone

Small pores

Little to no blemishes

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Normal Dry Oily/Blemished Sensitive Combination

Oil

yS

en

sit

ive

Dr

y

No

rma

l

Skin Types

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DRY skin is often a temporary problem but can

be irritating. Re-hydrating the skin is important to resolve this

condition.

SENSITIVE skin is highly reactive to certain products.

This causes irritation and redness.

OILY skin can be caused by several factors. Frequent acne and enlarged pores are

common occurrences.

NORMAL skin will have occasional dryness or

blemishes but is usually smooth, clear and hydrated.

Combination

Most people have a combination skin type that will be a mixture of two or more

common types.

For example, a person with “combination” skin may have

dry hands but oily face problems.

INTERESTING FACT:The skin is the largest organ in the body and accounts for 12-15% of total body weight.

Creating Your 6 Step Skin Care Plan

1: CleanseRemove dirt & cellular debris

2 X Daily

2: ExfoliateRemove dead

skin cells2 X Weekly

3: ToneBalance pH and remove

hard minerals from water2 X Daily

4: CorrectRepair,

replenish and promote anti-

aging2 X Daily

5: MoisturizeHydrate2 X Daily

6: ProtectFrom sunburn

and free radical

damageEvery 3 hours when in sun

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Organic – Refers to how a plant is grown.

Natural – A product derived from a plant (botanical) combined with naturally occuring carrier agents, preservatives, surfactants, humectants, and emulsifiers.

Synthetic – Science of creating, in a lab, which molecularly match those from nature in every way, i.e. nature-identical.

Organic personal care products is now a 7 Billion dollar industry (2012)

V. Natural vs. Synthetic vs. Organic

Ingredients & Products

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Hypoallergenic and natural can mean anything and nothing, really – market words

The FDA has no authority to require companies to test cosmetics for safety

People are affected by ingredients by breathing in sprays and powders, swallowing chemicals via lips and hands, or absorbing them through the skin

The average woman uses 12 personal care products daily; men use 6, exposing themselves (women) to more than 80 unique ingredients (teens more)

The only ‘safe’ sunscreen ingredients are zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (maybe)

NOT A FACT: Americans are getting dumber; Average IQ below average intelligence, thought to be caused by toxic affects to brain chemistry!

V. Product Ingredients Facts

Healthy Sunscreens….Oxymoron?

As the saying goes……

The sun is dangerous

Stay out of the sun

The sun is the primary cause of skin cancer

Sunscreen will protect your

skin from damaging rays

Possible truths:Sunscreens can be toxic to skinSunscreens can cause skin cancerNearly all conventional sunscreen products contain toxic and cancer causing chemicalsSunscreen blocks over 70% vitamin D production which your skin needsSunscreens are valuable under certain conditions (10/4 rule)Natural ingredients (botanicals) can help to block the damaging rays

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Product Ingredients

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Emulsifers (thickeners)

Hydrators (moisture)

Surfactants (cleansers)

Preservatives (preservers)

Solvents (carrier/penetrate)

Sunscreens (protect)

Toxic Ten

1. Urea2. Parabens3. Phthalates4. Mineral Oil5. Propylene Glycol (PEG)6. Sodium Laurel Sulfate

(SLS)7. DEA/TEA Dienthanolamine

& Triethanolamine8. Formaldehyde9. Synthetic Fragrances10.Synthetic Coloring FD&C

Yellow/Red

1.Urea

2.Parabens

3.Phthalates

4.Triclosan

5.Propylene Glycol (PEG)

6.Sodium Laurel Sulfate (SLS)

7.DEA/TEA Dienthanolamine & Triethanolamine

8. Formaldehyde

9.Synthetic Fragrances

10.Synthetic Coloring FD&C Yellow/Red

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BAD:Environmental Work Group GOOD: Chemist/ScientistFDA/Corporations

Cosmetic Safety

In 30 year history, the FDA industry panel has declared only 11 ingredients or chemical groups to be unsafe in America

The European Union has banned more than 1,000 ingredients from use in cosmetics that the FDA allows

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Evaluations and Gratitude