portfolio

marla marchant

Industrial designer, PUCV.Master of arquitecture and design, nautical and maritime, PUCV.Fashion designer, Espacio Buenos Aires.

Volume

By studying Attire/Garment Design one of the things that I got to understand is the conception of the shapes and volume from the plane, rather than the treatment of the material to reach a preconceived shape. To appropriate and develop this vision I have made it my starting point.

Technical Data Date: 03/2009

Materials: synthetic leather, sheepskin lining and rubber sole. Some padding was incorporated

to achieve layering and their different heights.

Applying some constructive costume elements to obtain volume with a texture of organic lines.

Textures


Materials: Metallized leather upper, painted sheepskin lining, silver

rubber.

Several rotations are given to the pattern expanding the scope of the mold, these are folded at the time of the assembly.

Textures

Textures

Model produced in a series of 18 pairs.


Materials: napa leather upper, painted sheepskin lining,

natural sole and rubber heel.

Patterns and volume

COLOR PALETTE

Experimenting with shapes and textures, achieving a sharper or more defined pleat.

Textures

This allows working with patterns and figures, adding pleats and ruffles, but in a seamless way.

Similarly, the pleat begins to have curved shapes that adhere better to the form which allows for an oblique configuration.


Materials: napa upper, natural sheepskin lining, natural sole

and rubber heel.

The dresses are part of the final collection developed during my studies on attire. The texture achieved resulted from a sublimated fabric base covered by a transparent screen, sublimated as well, with tucks.

Textures and Contrasts

Applying the pattern expanding in the

heel to obtain the texture in both pieces wich fix together to create another shape.


Materials: napa leather upper, painted sheepskin lining,

natural sole and wooden heel.

Development began using mockup models in denim, on which the folds were simplified to project my first series design. A wooden heel was specially made with straight lines and a thinner base.

Model produced in a series of 20 pairs.


Materials: kid leather upper, painted sheepskin

lining, natural sole and wooden heel wrapped in

leather.

Custom-made

This model started out as a commission, the requirements were a pointed toe cap and fine high heels. The original sketches were made into a mockup; the models with tucks and pleating were the only ones developed.


Materials: kid leather upper, lining.

COLOR PALETTE

Moreover, the texture with the application of a

contrasting color increases the sense of volume or overlapping layers in the cut.

Textures and Contrasts

Upon the idea of a high-contrast two-tone combination a geometrical form is incorporated based on the graphic interpretation of the interference between waves.

The parallel strokes and bracelet in the frontal sketch

are transposed to the heel in the next drawing.


Materials: napa leather, natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in

leather.

Formal sketch of the outline opposite the arch curvature of the foot.

Projection of the correlation between rings and the

foots arch, phasing out the double curvature of the silhouette.

Technical Data Date: 02/05/2011

Materials: kid leather sole, natural, wooden heel wrapped

in leather.


Materials: kid leather sole, natural, wooden heel wrapped

in leather.


Materials: kid leather, garment napa trimmings, natural sole,

wooden heel wrapped in leather.

This model was produced in 3 heel heights in a series of approximately 35 pairs.


Materials: the upper made from goat leather used for clothing, plain and

printed suede, and thin napa leather layers.

COLOR PALETTE

Enveloping

Volume


Materials: napa leather upper, sheepskin lining,

natural sole and covered wooden heel.

Following on the earlier premise, the use of pleads on the boot shaft is considered, and eventually the natural folds of leather are maintained.

Short boots

While some pairs were constructed, the series of 25 pairs was produced on March the following year.


Materials: leather upper, natural sole and wooden

heel.

The classic silhouette of the form is intervened by a continuous asymmetric line, which closes in on itself. The heels are built for the form in wood, using a more stylish classic design.

Enveloping Volume


Materials: Napa leather upper and kid leather

trimmings, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in

leather.

The tendency to encapsulate itself into curved shapes due to the surface tension and the ascending spiral waves of smoke.

The proposed piece wraps on itself by being pieced together as a whole, the fabrics alternating their sides to become visible.

COLOR PALETTE

PAGINA 7PRIMERA VERTICAL


Materials: Napa leather upper, kid leather lining,

natural sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.

Technical Data Date: 04/2010 Materials: Napa leather upper, kid leather lining, natural sole, rubber heel wrapped in natural sole.

COLOR PALETTE

Cutouts Textures and Contrasts


Materials: Napa leather upper, natural sole,

rubber heel wrapped in leather.

The enveloping voluminous strokes were simplified into curved lines through cuts and flaps.

Outline displacement

The high heel stylizes the contour lines; to achieve a low shoe a new sequence of sketches

was made displaying the modified outlines.




Enveloping Asymmetry


Materials: Napa leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole

and rubber heel.

VERTICAL 2

The collection has the fluids as its subject; the garments are born inspired on one of the observations, the ability to adapt to the space that contains them and the fragmented way of covering the surfaces getting back together while maintaining continuity. Which leads me to think about each shoe as an enveloping object that breaks the silhouette with its asymmetric cuts.


Materials: napa leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural sole

and rubber heel.


Materials: patent leather upper, napa leather trimming,

sheepskin lining, natural sole and rubber heel.


Materials: napa leather upper and trimmings, sheepskin

lining, natural sole and rubber heel.

The concept is also developed by means of applications on basic shapes.

COLO

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and wooden heel.

COLO

R PA

LETT

E



and wooden heel.

Working with color by means of cutouts and overlapping parts that assemble as a package would, such as envelopes or boxes.

COLO

R PA

LETT

E

win

ter

sum

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Overlapping layers

COLOR PALETTE

The first sketches are presented as an

interpolation of the shapes from the heel to the upper, in the same way that the repetition of contained shapes obtained by changing magnitude does.

In the case of uppers these are intended

as planes that contain and displace themselves leaving small spaces between them to create volume.


Materials: Leather upper, natural sole, wooden heel

wrapped in leather.

To achieve changes in the pieces thickness as well, filler material is added to the lining on the heel.

Pattern and volume

Initially the pattern was thought-out with cut and pasted pieces with a 2 mm spacing in a background with a contrasting color.



wrapped in leather.

Given the difficulty of the process, I decided to work seams into the patter and fabric and to achieve volume using filler material.

Pattern and volume


Materials: Leather upper, sheepskin lining, natural

sole and rubber heel.

The development of weaving patterns starts out as a proposal for costume garments, which is subsequently applied to the shoe.

COLOR PALETTE

Parallel and intertwined patterns

Garments designed taking its starting point on the Com des Garces 2008 collection, which uses petticoats as a source of inspiration.

Incorporating the outlines of barbs and ties from the

corsets opens up the work to parallel and intertwined lines that cling to the foot’s shape.

COLOR PALETTE


Materials: Kid leather, natural sole, rubber heel

wrapped in leather.



wrapped in leather.

Straight lines plus simple and defined strokes are used, contributing to the overall tidiness of the garment.

COLOR PALETTE

Sketches of the main features and development process.



wrapped in leather.


Materials: Laser cut napa leather upper, natural

sole, wooden heel wrapped in leather.

Patterns and transparency

Mock draft

Cutting shapes and patterns


Materials: Laser cut napa leather upper, natural

sole, rubber heel.

The inability to resist strain by dividing itself into

small fragments, like the rain that rejoins the water´s surface with small sparks and becomes visible, is another of the premises that inspires the work with patterns and transparencies.

The pattern incorporates the shapes of branches of

winter trees in abstract form.

branches of tree picture.

Wooden heels



wrapped in natural sole.

COLOR PALETTE

To open up possibilities for the manufacture of wooden heels, left pending some time ago.

A simple but real manufacturing concept is presented, to cut the heel longitudinally and horizontally, from it we extract and modify the position and size of the pieces like a

jigsaw puzzle.

It is intended for the heel to become the main feature, achieved by using a reduced classic cut in bright colors in contrast to its natural finish.



wrapped in natural sole.



wrapped in leather.

COLOR PALETTE

To create continuity in the shape a bracelet that extends to cover the whole heel is incorporated.



wrapped in leather.

COLOR PALETTE

Returning to the corset´s interlacing concept to incorporate it into the continuity of the heel.



wrapped in leather.

COLOR PALETTE

portfolio

Documents

natural sheepskin lining

napa leather upper

natural sole

rubber heel

wooden heel

painted sheepskin lining

texturestechnical data

kid leather upper