V A Š B R E Z P L A Č N I I Z V O D - Y O U R P E R S O N A L C O P Y

Andrej TrampužMadrid

MariborMariborske kavarne • Cafés of MariborMariborska arhitekta Fritz Friedriger in Max Czeike • Maribor Architects Fritz Friedriger & Max CzeikeMariborsko Pohorje • The Maribor Pohorje

Jadralno letalstvo • GlidingCiril KrižnarMed izolskimi ribiči • Fishermen of IzolaIdrska planinaJaponska • Japan

PilotsPiloti

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine3 )

Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine3 )junij, julij - June, July 2009junij, julij - June, July 2009

Adria Airways In-Flight MagazineRevija Adria Airways In-Flight Magazine

je namenjena potnikom na poletih z Adrio Airways.Adria In-flight Magazine is complimentary

on Adria Airways flights.

Izdajatelj/Published:Adria Airways, Slovenski letalski prevoznik, d.d.

Adria Airways The Airline of SloveniaKuzmičeva 7, 1000 Ljubljana

Uredništvo / Editorial: Barbara Mihevc BukovecTel / Phone + 386 1 369 1290

E- mail: barbara.bukovec@adria.siUrednica / Edited by: Meta Krese

Oglaševanje / Advertising: Alenka DvoršakTel / Phone + 386 1 369 1259

E- mail: alenka.dvorsak@adria.siOblikovanje in AD / Design and AD: LUKS Studio

Prevod / Translated by: AmidasLektorica/ Language editing: Vera Samohod

Fotoliti / Lithography: Schwarz d.o.o.Tisk / Printed by: Schwarz d.o.o.

ISSN 1318-0789

Mnenja, izražena v tej publikaciji, so zgolj mnenja avtorjev ali intervjuvancev in ne odsevajo nujno stališč Adrie

Airways. Razmnoževanje brez pisnega dovoljenjaje prepovedano. Izdajatelj ne prevzema nikakršne

odgovornosti za nenaročeno gradivo.The opinions expressed in this publication are those of the authors or persons interviewed only and do not necessarily

reflect the views of Adria Airways. Reproduction without written permission is prohibited. The pub lish er accepts no

responsibility for unsolicit ed material.

Brezplačen izvod / Your personal copy

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Vsebina/ContentsAdrijin potnik / Adria PassengerAndrej TrampužAndrej TrampužGregor Bulc

MadridMoja ljubezenska zgodbaMy Love StoryIrene Sánchez

mariborV Mariboru kavarne nikoli ne samevajoThe Many Cafés of MariborDavid Šalamun

Zamolčana in pozabljena mariborska arhitekta Fritz Friedriger in Max CzeikeTwo Forgotten Maribor Architects: Fritz Friedriger & Max CzeikeJanez Lombergar

Mariborsko Pohorje/The Maribor PohorjeNajbližje letenjuClosest Thing to FlyingDuša Podbevšek–Bedrač

Jadralno letalstvo/GlidingUsode legendarnega Cirila KrižnarjaThe Destinies of the Legendary Ciril KrižnarNiko Slana

Divjecesarska doživetjaWild Emperor AdventuresNiko Slana

Med izolskimi ribiči/Fishermen of IzolaSveža riba je še vedno najboljšaFresh Fish is Still the BestAndrej Crček

FondaPortoroški ribogojni rezervatPortorož Fish-farming ReserveAndrej Crček

Med pomorskimi piloti/Maritime PilotsZgodovina pilotov in mornarjev je enako dolgaAs Long as There Have Been Mariners, There Have Been PilotsAndrej Crček

Dan na primorski planiniA Day on the Mountain Mastures of PrimorskaMarjan Žiberna

Japonska/JapanZabavna ulična moda vnukov in vnukinjThe Bizarre Street Fashion of Japan's GrandchildrenIztok Bončina

Janez Pukšič

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Besedilo: Marija Haralovič Ilustracije: Maja Babič Košir

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Potovatiže, samo s kom?

Dandanes je postalo potovanje z letali dostopno najširšemu krogu ljudi. Število potnikov raste iz leta v leto, prav tako tudi ponudnikov letalskih storitev. Na splošno bi lahko rekli, da ločujemo med rednimi oz. tako imenovanimi

tradicionalnimi letalskimi prevozniki in ponudniki nizkocenonovnih letov. Pri odločitvi, s katerim od prevoznikov bomo leteli, je lahko cena le-talske vozovnice odločujoč dejavnik. Vendar pa velja biti pri tem previden in pri primerjavi upoštevati tudi niz dejavnikov, ki na prvi pogled morda niso vidni, na koncu pa pripomorejo k precej drugačni končni ceni vozov-nice, kot je bilo videti na prvi pogled.

Pa pojdimo lepo po vrsti in si oglejmo nekaj teh razlik.Tradicionalni prevozniki večinoma letijo na glavna letališča posame-

znih mest, kjer so dobre prometne povezave, nizkocenovni pa največkrat na obrobna letališča, kjer je javni prevoz praviloma slabo organiziran. Mor-da je cena letalske vozovnice pri nizkocenovnem prevozniku nižja, vendar lahko ostali stroški ter poraba časa zaradi manj primernega voznega reda in oddaljenosti letališča osnovno ceno povišajo, da se ta približa tisti, ki bi jo plačali, če bi se odločili za tradicionalnega prevoznika.

Nizkocenovni prevozniki ponujajo storitev prevoza na direktnem letu. Če želimo potovati na zaporednih letih, moramo kupiti več vozovnic in vsaka šteje za ločeno pogodbo. Kadar poteka letenje po voznem redu, je vse lepo in prav. Težave nastopijo, če izgubimo zvezo z naslednjim letom. Nizkocenovni prevozniki praviloma ne poskrbijo za potnike v primeru od-povedi letov ali zamud. Potniki so prepuščen svoji iznajdljivosti. Povsem drugače poteka potovanje s tradicionalnimi prevozniki, ki nudijo storitev zaporednih prevozov z eno samo vozovnico. V primeru odpovedi in zasto-jev poskrbijo, da potnik prispe do namembnega kraja z drugim letom ali drugim prevoznim sredstvom. Potniki s tem nimajo nobenih dodatnih stroškov, v določenih primerih so upravičeni tudi do ustreznega denarne-

ga nadomestila. Ti letalski prevozniki se tudi povezujejo v združenja, ki jim omogočajo ponudbo storitve prevozov na zaporednih letih v kombi-naciji s partnersko letalsko družbo.

Tradicionalni prevozniki razlikujejo med ponudbo cen za poslovne in turistične namene. Višina cene je odvisna od načrtovane dolžine bivanja v kraju, kamor potujemo, in od časa nakupa vozovnice. Najdražje so vozov-nice za odhod in povratek v istem dnevu ali z eno nočitvijo, ki omogočajo tudi spremembe datumov potovanja brez doplačila. Cenejše so vozovnice z dvema ali tremi nočitvami ali vozovnice, ki so kupljene v predprodaji; le-te omogočajo spremembe datumov potovanja z doplačilom.

Za potnike prvega in poslovnega razreda imajo na letališču posebna okenca za prijavo na let, salon za čakanje na let, večjo količino brezplačne prtljage, raznoliko hrano in pijačo, bolj udobne sedeže in večjo medsede-žno razdaljo.

Poslovni potniki praviloma najbolj cenijo čas, zato je zanje zelo po-membna pogostnost letenja na progi, točnost poletov in dostopnost do sedežev ter možnost kombinacije prevozov z drugimi prevozniki. Načrt potovanja pogosto spreminjajo tik pred zdajci, zato je pomembno, da je možno brez doplačila spreminjati datume potovanja. Ugodnosti članstva v programih zvestobe so tudi ene izmed dejavnikov, zakaj potniki izberejo lete določenega prevoznika oziroma združenja.

Potnikom v ekonomskem razredu so na voljo različne tarife, ki se razlikujejo po višini in pogojih. Pri tradicionalnih prevoznikih vključuje cena praviloma 20 kg brezplačne prtljage, možnost vnaprejšnje rezervacije sedeža, brezplačno pijačo, hrano in časopise na letalu. Pri nizkocenovnih prevoznikih pa vse to večinoma ni všteto v ceno, ampak se plača posebej.

Začeli smo, pa še zaključimo z Jonatanom Livingstonom Galebom: »Le-tenje je veliko več kot samo to, da pofrfotavaš s kraja na kraj.«

»Najdalje vidi galeb, ki leti najvišje.«(Richard Bach: Jonatan Livingston Galeb)

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Travel, Yes,But With Whom?

“The gull sees farthest who flies highest.”(Richard Bach: Jonathan Livingston Seagull)

Text: Marija Haralovič Illustrations: Maja Babič Košir

Today, air travel has become accessible to a very large circle of people. The number of air passengers is growing from year to year, as is the number of carriers. In general terms we can say that we distinguish between “traditional”

airlines and “low-cost” airlines. When deciding what airline to fly with, the price of the ticket can be a deciding factor. But it is worth being cau-tious here and taking into account a series of other factors that, though they may not be visible at first glance, can end up contributing to a final price that is quite a lot higher than we originally thought.

But let’s start at the beginning and look at some of these differences:Traditional carriers for the most part fly to principal airports with

good transport connections, whereas low-cost carriers mainly fly to secondary airports where public transport tends to be poorly organised. The low-cost carrier may offer lower ticket prices, but other costs and the loss of time due to a less convenient timetable and the distance of the airport from the city have the effect of increasing the basic price, so that it approaches the price we would have paid if we had chosen a tradi-tional airline.

Low-cost carriers offer direct flights with the emphasis on point-to-point service. If your journey involves consecutive flights, you have to buy a ticket for each leg of the journey and each ticket is treated as a separate contract. This is no problem as long as flights are on time. The difficulties arise when you miss a connection. Low-cost carriers do not as a rule make any provision for passengers in the case of flight cancella-tions and delays. Passengers are left to their own devices. The situation changes entirely when you travel with traditional airlines, who offer consecutive flights on a single ticket. In the case of cancellations and delays, they ensure that passengers are put on another flight to their destination or offered an alternative means of transport. Passengers in-cur no extra costs and in some cases they are entitled to an appropriate amount of compensation. Airlines of this type also join together to form alliances which enable them to offer services and connections in combi-nation with a partner airline.

Traditional airlines differentiate between business and tourist travel. Prices depend on the planned length of stay at the destination and on when the ticket is purchased. Same-day or following-day return tickets that allow you to change the dates of travel without charge are the most expensive. Tickets involving a stay of two or three nights and tickets booked in advance are cheaper. These allow you to change your dates of travel but you will be charged for this.

Passengers in first class and business class have special check-in desks at the airport, the use of an airport lounge, a larger free baggage allowance, a choice of food and beverages, more comfortable seats and more space between seats.

In the case of business travellers, time is usually the most important factor, and therefore the frequency of flights on a given route, punctual-ity, seat availability and the possibility of combining flights with other carriers are of the utmost importance. Travel plans often change at the last minute, and therefore the ability to change tickets without paying a fee is also important. The advantages of loyalty programme member-ship are another of the reasons why passengers choose a particular air-line or alliance.

Economy class passengers can choose from a range of different tariffs with different conditions. In the case of traditional airlines, the price generally includes a 20 kg free baggage allowance, the possibility of booking a seat in advance, and a free drink, food and newspapers aboard the aircraft. In the case of low-cost carriers, these services are not as a rule included in the price but are charged separately.

Let us end as we began, with Jonathan Livingston Seagull: There’s so much more to flying than just flapping around from place to place! A

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Maribor

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{ Maribor }

V Mariborukavarne nikoline samevajoBesedilo: David Šalamun Fotografije: Borut Krajnc

Po dolgih urah, ki jih prebijem v stanovanju, se vedno veselim obiska v kavarni. Res je, da se moram včasih prav prisiliti, da se odpravim v kavarno – samo zato, da se ne zaprem v svoj

kotiček –, potem pa uživam ob kavi in gledam, kaj se dogaja okrog mene. Zmeraj, kjerkoli že sem, se mi zdi kavarna dobra točka za opa-zovanje. Tam prepoznam utrip predela mesta, v katerem sem: in v Mariboru vsekakor prepoznaš razliko, če sediš v Centru, Melju, Mag-daleni ali pa na Teznu.

Povezava Maribora z Dunajem je bila od nekdaj prisotna.In tudi vlaki, ki so na poti iz Trsta na Dunaj v Mariboru pol-nili svoje kotle z vodo, so v tem mestu pustili sled. Priča tega časa je na primer železničarska kolonija, stanovanjsko

naselje, zgrajeno v šestdesetih letih 19. stoletja za delavce železniških delavnic. Trst in Dunaj, dve prestolnici kave, pa sta vplivala na ma-riborsko gostilniško kulturo. Tako se je v mestu ustalila kavarniška kultura.

V dvajsetih letih prejšnjega stoletja so bile kavarne odprte do petih ali šestih zjutraj. Bile so v dunajskem stilu. Imeli so časopise v različ-nih jezikih in tam se je odvijala živahna socialna komunikacija. To je bilo mesto, kjer so si izmenjavali informacije. Tako, kot je še danes.

Od nekdanjih znamenitih kavarn se je, recimo, obdržala Astoria, čeprav se je njen obraz v teh letih popolnoma spremenil. Ne samo

'dunajske', v mestu so se ustalile tudi 'primorske' kavarne, ki so vabile goste z imeni, kot je Jadran. V njih so stregli dalmatinska vina in v mesto so prinesle mediteransko vzdušje. Danes je svet večji in tudi vplivi so različnejši. Nekatere kavarne, kot Macchiato, imajo še vedno mediteransko zveneče ime. Ko pa sediš v Čajeku, lahko mimogrede pozabiš, da si v Mariboru. Lahko bi bil tudi v kakšni angleški čajnici. V plesni šoli z bifejem ti natakar postreže s turško ali arabsko kavo, takšno, kot si jo spoznal na orientu.

Ozkim ulicah starega dela mesta dajejo življenje prav kavarne. Niko-li niso prazne. Na Slovenski ulici, Poštni ulici ali pa ob Lentu se vrstijo ena poleg druge. V času festivalov so tako polne, da komajda najdeš prazen prostor. Če imaš srečo, potem uživaš ob sladici, prebiranju ča-sopisja in literature. In seveda ob klepetu. Ob svojem ali pa ob tistem, ki ga slišiš pri sosednji mizi.

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The ManyCafés of MariborText: David Šalamun Photography: Borut Krajnc

After spending hours cooped up in my flat, I am always

happy to go out to a café. It’s true: sometimes I have to

force myself to get up and go out, just so as not to stay shut

up in my own little den, but once I’m in the café I enjoy

sitting over a coffee and watching what is going on around

me. Wherever I am, a café has always seemed to me a good

observation point. It is there that I recognise the pulse of

whatever part of the city I find myself in: and in Maribor

you immediately notice the difference between the Center,

Melje, Magdalena and Tezno districts.

The connection between Maribor and Vienna goes back a long way. The trains that used to stop in Maribor to refill their boilers en route from Trieste to Maribor have also left their mark on the city. One remnant of that age is

the railwaymen’s colony, a residential district built in the 1860s for the workers from the railway workshops. Trieste and Vienna, both European capitals of coffee, also had an influence on Maribor’s social customs. The result was that a café culture established itself in the city.

In the 1920s cafés stayed open until five or six o’clock in the morn-ing. They were in the Viennese style. They had newspapers in several languages and hummed with lively social communication. The café was a place where information was exchanged. Just as it is today.

Some of the famous old cafés still survive. The Astoria, for exam-ple, although its appearance has changed completely in recent years. It was not only “Viennese” cafés that established themselves in the city. There were also cafés of the “Mediterranean” type, attracting their clientele with names like Jadran (“Adriatic”). These establish-ments served wines from Dalmatia and brought a Mediterranean atmosphere to the city. Today the world is bigger and influences are more varied. Some cafés, such as the Macchiato, still have Mediter-ranean-sounding names. But when you take a seat in the Čajek, you can easily forget that you are in Maribor. You could be in an English tearoom. Or there is the café attached to a dance school, where the waiter serves you the same Turkish or Arabic coffee you have drunk in the Middle East.

The cafés bring life to the narrow streets of the Old Town. They are never empty. On Slovenska Ulica, Poštna Ulica and the Lent embank-ment, the cafés stand one next to the other. During the festival sea-son they are so full that it is hard to find a seat. But if you are lucky, you can enjoy a pastry and an idle browse through newspapers or a book. And of course a chat. Your own or the one taking place at the next table.

Park kavarna na razglednici približno leta 1930 (arhitekt Max Czeike 1922),

po vojni pregrajena v Akvarij (Jože Požauko, približno leta 1950), arhiv Primoža Premzla/

Park Coffeehouse on a postcard from circa 1930 (designed by Max Czeike in 1922).

Converted into the Aquarium after the war (Jože Požauko, circa 1950), Primož Premzl archive

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Čajek

Simona Kopinšek»Ko sem pred desetimi leti prišla v Maribor s

podeželske in idilične Donačke Gore, se mi je razprl svet. Tam pod triglavo goro sem sanjala o mestu, kjer živijo in

se srečujejo pesniki in slikarji. Prva kavarna, kjer sem ob kavi in čaju srkala prve verze v mestu in o njem, je bila Čajek, tu pri Astoriji. Danes v zgornjem prostoru čajnice ni več pianina, na katerega je včasih igral boemski Matej. A v mojih pesmih in sanjavih vračanjih v podoživljanje se pianino še sliši in vidi. Najgloblja sanja, ki jo imam, pa je prav ta, da obstaja kavarna, pred katero pesniki mimoidoče pozdravljamo v verzih. In to je čajnica. V nedeljo zvečer ali v ponedeljek zjutraj ob devetih, ko se sonce toplo plazi čez streho mariborskega gradu in srkne z mano kavo ali čaj. Rada posedim za to mizo v kotu, vajeno pesmi, smeha golobom in vrabcem, ki pobirajo sveže drobtine hrustljavih rogljičev. Tudi zato je Maribor najlepše mesto na svetu. Je moj mali Pariz, kjer se lahko kadarkoli skrijem ali najdem, kar želim. Pesem ob jutranji kavi in klepetanje z življenjem vsak dan znova. Kajti Čajek je tudi odlična postaja za čakanje na klepet z mimoidočim nekom.«

“When I came to Maribor ten years ago from rural and idyllic Donačka Gora, the world opened up before me. There, beneath the triple summit of the mountain,

I had dreamed about the city where poets and painters live and meet. The first café in the city where I drank coffee and tea, and drank in verses about the city, was Čajek, here by the Astoria. Today the upright piano – that bohemian Matej would sometimes play – is gone from the upstairs room. But in my poems and daydreams of the past, I can still hear and see that piano. My secret dream is of a café in front of which we poets greet passers-by in verse. And that is what this tea house is. On Sunday evenings, or at nine o’clock on Monday mornings, when the warm sun creeps across the roof of Maribor Castle and sips coffee or tea with me. I like to sit at this table in the corner, used to poetry and laughter, with the pigeons and sparrows pecking at the fresh crumbs of crumbly, flaky croissants. That is another reason why Maribor is the most beautiful city in the world. It is my little Paris, where I can hide whenever I want to, or find whatever I wish. A poem over a morning cup of coffee and a chat with life, every day afresh. Because the Čajek is also a very good place to wait for a chat with someone passing by.”

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{ Maribor }

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Čajek

Andrej Brvar,pesnik/poet

Andrej Brvar pravi, da so dnevi, ko prideš popolnoma uni-čen v službo. »Sesut si ves čas, dokler ne prideš do svoje kave.« Pri njem je to okrog enajstih. Takrat ponavadi zaide v čajnico

in kavarno Čajek ali pa tudi v Astorio. Začneš piti kavo. Njena toplota se širi proti tvojemu obrazu; poslušaš, kaj vse se okrog tebe pogovarjajo. »Takrat začutiš, kako ti odpada maska, kako se lušči s tvojega obraza. Lica se ti preprosto razširijo v nasmeh tudi zato, ker vidiš, da tvoji pro-blemi niso samo tvoji, ampak so nekaj popolnoma normalnega.« In premaguješ jih tudi s kavo, je prepričan pesnik Brvar.

Andrej Brvar says that there are days when one gets to work utterly destroyed. “You are a mess until you have your coffee,” he says. In his case this is at around eleven o'clock.

He usually makes his way to the Čajek tea and coffee house or Astoria. You start to drink your coffee. Its warmth spreads towards your face; you listen to what the people around you are saying. “You feel your mask falling off, you feel it peeling from your face. Your cheeks can't help widening into a smile, because you see that you are not the only one with problems and that your problems are something perfectly normal.” And coffee is one way to beat them, believes Brvar.

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Macchiato

Zmago Jeraj,slikar/painter

Zmago Jeraj uporablja atelje striktno za delovni prostor, zato nima tam ničesar, s čimer bi lahko postregel obiskovalcem. »Če se zagovorimo, je še najboljše, da jih povabim kar v bližnjo

kavarnico Macchiato,« je prepričan. Kavarna je nova, neobičajna in je del večjega stanovanjskega kompleksa Forum. Vendar je stara zgradba, ki se je morala Forumu umakniti, ostala obeležena na Jerajevi sliki. Njena navzočnost je podana skozi njeno odsotnost in je pravzaprav zrisava njenega profila, ostanka na sosednji zgradbi, ki se je je včasih držala.

Zmago Jeraj uses his studio strictly as a place to work, so he keeps nothing there to offer visitors. “If we get talking, the best thing is for me to invite them to my local café, the Macchi-

ato,” he explains. The café is new and unusual, and part of the Forum residential complex. But a record of the old building that had to make way for the Forum is preserved in one of Jeraj’s paintings. Its presence is suggested by its absence, and its profile can actually still be seen on the building next door that once stood next to it.

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Zahir

Melita Forstnerič Hajnšek,novinarka Večera/Večer journalist

»Nekaj hiš stran od moje časopisne hiše, kjer se proti Dravi spusti Svetozarevska, tista ulica, ki so jo hoteli pred leti preimenovati v Večerovo, so lani odprli kavarnico z

vabljivim orientalskim imenom Zahir. V arabščini pomeni nekaj, česar ni mogoče spregledati, kar po prvem srečanju zleze pod kožo. Res je okus Zahirjeve kave zapeljiv in zvoki bližnje orientalske šole zazibljejo v daljne ritme. Je bila moja zadnja kava tam turška? Pomnim le okus po ingverju in mandljih. Ko od Drave zapihlja navzgor na Zahirjev vrt, se spomnim Zlate Vokač in njenih Marpurgov in očetovih verzov in prve prave turške kave iz džezvice na Baščaršiji s tremi kockicami sladkorja in ratlukom. Vse se pomeša v meni in zato ta pogled na Dravo nenehno ponavljam. In Zahir je krasno pribežališče. Res ga ni več mogoče spregledati. Pa sploh nisem kavarniška generacija. Nam so jih ukinjali drugo za drugo, le še v daljnem spominu so ostajali livrirani natakarji iz nekdanje Astorije. Iz časov, ko še niso dajali hrane na študentske bone. Stojala za časopise in velik črn klavir so še bili del inventarja. Ampak to je že neka čisto druga zgodba.«

“A few buildings away from the offices of my newspaper, where Svetozarevska, the street that years ago they wanted to rename Večerova (‘Večer Street’), descends towards the

river Drava, a café with the enticing oriental name of ‘Zahir’ opened last year. In Arabic zahir means something impossible to overlook, something which gets under your skin after the first encounter. And it is true that the flavour of the Zahir’s coffee is seductive, and that the sounds from the nearby oriental dance studio lull you with their rhythms from far away. Was my last coffee there Turkish? I only remem-ber a flavour of ginger and almonds. When the breeze blows gently up from the Drava into the Zahir’s garden, I remember Zlata Vokač and her novel The Marpurgs, and my father’s poems, and my first real Turkish coffee from a dzhezva or ibrik in Sarajevo’s Baščaršija quarter, with three lumps of sugar and Turkish Delight. All of this is mixed up in me, and that is why I keep returning to this view of the Drava. And the Zahir is a great refuge. And something that, for me at least, is ‘impossible to over-look’. I am not really part of the coffeehouse generation at all. The old coffeehouses have closed down, one by one, and the liveried waiters at the old Astoria are merely a distant memory. From the days before they started serving food in exchange for student meal coupons. Racks for newspapers and a big black piano were still part of the furniture. But that is another story entirely.” A

{ Maribor }

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{ Maribor }

Huda kava

»Odkar v Mariboru ni več legendarne Gicove čajnice in kavarne, najraje zahajam k ’Hudi kavi’, majhni kavar-nici na Poštni ulici. Pa ne le zato, ker se tam zbira dosti

mladih in me to posledično naredi mlajšega. Tja grem predvsem zaradi navihane natakarice Lele, ki me s svojimi dovtipi, neposrednostjo in kleno prekmurščino zmeraj spravi v dobro voljo. Mislim, da je ona pravi zaščitni znak te kavarne in da tja veliko gostov hodi ravno zaradi nje. Pa še dobro kavo zna skuhati! Zraven pa obvezna cigareta; če ni marlbo-ra, Lela potoži, da imajo samo galojzes žűte (rumeni gaulouises).«

“Since Maribor lost the legendary GIC tearoom and café, my favourite café has become Huda Kava, a small café on Poštna Ulica. And not only because it is usually full of young

people, which makes me feel younger. The main reason I go there is because of the barmaid Lela, whose jokes, directness and pithy Prek-murian dialect always put me in a good mood. For me, she is the café’s trademark, and I think a lot of customers go there just because of her. She also makes good coffee! Which of course has to be accompanied by a cigarette: and if they haven’t got Marlboro, Lela complains in dialect that they’ve only got ‘Galojzes žűte’ (Gauloises in the yellow packet).”

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Vladimir Rukavina,direktor Narodnega doma Maribor/General Manager of Narodni dom Maribor

KiBar

Peter Tomaž DobrilaKiBar, kibernetična kavarna Multimedijskega centra KIBLA,

je 'unicum' med prostori, saj mi 'pro bono' nudi okolje, ki ga po-trebujem tako za komunikacijo kot tudi za delo: velikost in viši-

no, brezžični in žični dostop do medmrežja, razne umetniške programe, razstave, tudi v prostoru za umetnost KiBela, in udobje ter širok izbor tiskanih medijev, tako časnikov in revij kot drugih publikacij, predvsem seveda knjig s področja družboslovja in humanistike, umetnosti in zna-nosti, in tudi tujo literaturo, ki jo zaobjema knjigarna Za:misel.

Nedvomno je to najbolj zaseben javni prostor, kjer lahko srečate tuje in domače umetnice in umetnike vseh generacij in z vseh področij ustvarja-nja in z njimi poklepetate ali pa zgolj meditirate, lahko pa pripeljete tudi svoje otroke in jih prepustite njihovi kreativnosti, medtem ko sestanku-jete. Njegov dnevni mir vas skrije pred večerom, ko se ob dogodkih razži-vi in vas brez težav povabi na zabavo z glavo in seveda tudi na ples.

KiBar, the cybercafé of the KIBLA Multimedia Centre, isa one-off, since it offers me the environment I need both for com-munication and for work: size and height, wireless and cable Inter-

net access, a variety of art programmes and exhibitions, some in the KiBela art space, comfort, and a wide choice of print media – newspapers and maga-zines and other publications, and above all of course the social sciences, humanities, art and science books, not to mention foreign literature, offered by the Za:misel bookshop.

This is without a doubt the most private public space, a place where you can meet foreign and domestic artists of all generations and from all fields and chat with them or merely meditate. You can also bring your children and leave them to be creative while you are busy having meetings. Its day-time peace hides you from the evening, when things liven up and you can easily find yourself drawn into intellectual entertainments or even to dance.

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Besedilo in fotografije: Duša Podbevšek–Bedrač

( 62 )

{ Mariborsko Pohorje / The Maribor Pohorje }

Vse je naenkrat čisto – telo in duh. V neokrnjenem naravnem

rezervatu na skrajnem vzhodu Alp – na Pohorju. Mogočni

gozdovi, potoki, slapovi in jezera tvorijo čudovit svet narave,

ki ponuja številne možnosti za sprostitev in imenitno počutje. Največji

strnjeni gozdni kompleks daleč naokoli proizvaja velikanske količine

kisika; pohorski gozdovi ga dajejo toliko, kolikor bi ga bilo potrebno za

dvojno slovensko prebivalstvo skupaj z izseljenci.

Med pogledom na zelenega orjaka, ki se dviga do tisoč metrov

nadmorske višine nad štajersko metropolo Mariborom, marsikatere-

mu popotniku zastane dih. Zato že od nekdaj to področje, ki je nekoč

slovelo po oglarjih in v katerem so se skrivali škratje in babe črbabe,

vabi v svoje okrilje tako avanturiste kot romantike, željne pohodništva,

jahanja in gorskega kolesarjenja. Z višinskim poligonom privablja tiste,

ki si želijo doseči vrtoglave podvige s premagovanjem lastnega strahu

in hitrimi akcijami ter početi pač vse, kar povzroča intenzivno izločanje

adrenalina.

Najbližje letenju

Start na 1050 metrih in cilj na 325

metrih nadmorske višine, dolžina 4000

metrov! To je najdaljša downhill proga v

Sloveniji. Namenjena je vsem tistim, ki

se jim po žilah pretaka adrenalin in želijo

vedeti, kako dobro »obvladajo« svoje

kolo. Na tem delu se tudi odvija svetovni

pokal v gorskem kolesarjenju.

Start at 1050 metres and finish at

325 metres above sea level, length of

trail 4000 metres! This is the longest

downhill route in Slovenia. It is designed

for anyone with adrenaline pumping in

their veins who wants to know just how

well they can “control” their bike. This

section is also the venue for the World

Mountain Biking Championship.

Dan lahko začnemo s sproščeno ali pravo nordijsko hojo tudi do čudovitega slapa

Šumnik v Pohorskem pragozdu, nedotaknjenem vse do današnjega časa. Ali do

Črnega jezera, imenovanega tudi »črni biser«, obdanega z nizkimi borovci in mo-

gočnimi smrekami.

The day can begin with relaxed or proper Nordic walking, right up to the wonderful

Šumnik waterfall in the Pohorje virgin forest, which has remained untouched to

the present day. Or you can hike to Črno jezero, also known as the “black pearl”,

which is decked with pines and mighty spruces.

Text and photography: Duša Podbevšek–Bedrač

Everything is suddenly clear – body and mind. In the unspoilt na-

ture reserve on the eastern margin of the Alps – on the Pohorje.

Mighty forests, streams, waterfalls and lakes create a wonderful

world of nature, offering countless possibilities for relaxation and a

( 63 )

Closest Thing to Flying

Po dva kilometra dolgem drznem spu-

stu po ostrih zavojih v nepredvidljiva

brezna in po hitrem delu, ki ima do

67-odstoten naklon, se človeku pri hi-

trosti do 40 kilometrov na uro nehote

zasolzijo oči. Že pogled na progo Pohor

JET s starta od Trikotne jase do cilja v

Snežnem stadionu zagotavlja občutek

– najbližje letenju.

The two-kilometre audacious descent

through sharp turns into a hidden

abyss, and the fast flat section at

speeds up to 40 kilometres and then

the 67 percent incline tend to make

your eyes water. Just a glance at the

course of the Pohor JET, from the start

at the Triangular Glade to the finish

at the Snow Stadium, brings out that

feeling – the closest thing to flying.

Na Trikotni jasi na nadmorski višini 580

metrov obiskovalci na višinskem poligo-

nu – adrenalinskem parku – dosegajo

vrtoglave podvige na orjaški gugalnici,

stebru poguma, plezalni steni … Najbolj

drzni adrenalinci se preizkušajo kar 14

metrov nad tlemi s hojo po mreži.

At the Triangular Glade 580 metres

above sea level, visitors to the altitude

recreation area – or adrenaline park –

can perform head-spinning exploits on

the giant swing, the pillar of courage and

climbing wall. The boldest thrill-seekers

can test themselves 14 metres above

the ground by walking on the net.

Pohorske kolesarske poti so speljane skozi gozdove, ki skriva-

jo ostanke nekdanjih glažut, arheološka nahajališča, samotne

cerkvice in jezerca v skupni dolžini 200 kilometrov. Najbolj

priljubljene so proge, ki imajo izhodišče na vrhu Mariborskega

Pohorja s kolesarsko info točko in Garmin Test Centrom pri

zgornji postaji Pohorske vzpenjače. Pravi raj za zahtevne ko-

lesarje je proga, dolga kar 500 kilometrov, med Mariborskim

Pohorjem, Roglo, Ribniškim Pohorjem in Kopami.

The Pohorje cycle paths run through forests concealing the

remains of early glassworks, archaeological sites, isolated

churches and little lakes, covering a total length of 200 kilo-

metres. The most popular trails are those that start at the

top of the Maribor Pohorje, with its cycling information point

and Garmin Test Centre at the upper station of the Pohorje

funicular system. An absolute dream for demanding cyclists is

the trail that runs a full 500 kilometres between the Maribor

Pohorje, Rogla, Ribniško Pohorje and Kope.

wonderful sense of wellbeing. The biggest contiguous forest complex

for miles around produces vast quantities of oxygen. The Pohorje for-

ests produce enough oxygen for double the Slovenian population plus

all those who have emigrated.

Gazing at the green giant, which rises to a thousand metres above

sea level and looks down on the metropolis of Maribor, many travellers

stop to catch their breath. For this reason, from the earliest times this

area, which was once famous for its charcoal makers and which har-

boured goblins and witches, lures both adventurers and romantics ea-

ger to hike, horse-ride or take out their mountain bikes. Its high altitude

recreation areas also lure those seeking to perform vertiginous exploits

by overcoming their own fear and reacting quickly, and in fact by doing

everything that produces an intense adrenaline rush. A

( 64 )

Besedilo: Niko Slana

Zakaj smo med množico jadralcev, ki so poklicno leteli ali še

vedno letijo v Adrii Airways, izbrali prav Cirila Križnarja

in mu nadeli avreolo legende? V slovenski letalski družbi

so bili prav tako karizmatični jadralci Franček Mordej, Vine Žakelj,

Franc Štrukelj, tudi Marjan Bizjan je začel med njimi, še nedavno sta

letela Janez Pintar in Miha Thaler, še zmeraj pa uspešno tekmujejo

Aleš Maraž, Igor Kolarič, Željko Roškar in Sebastjan Ramšak. A

Ciko, kot so mu pravili prijatelji, je imel še posebej zanimivo letalsko

otroštvo, njegova letalska pot je bila vzpenjajoča, resda kratka, a

razburkana. V življenju je izbiral svoje poti.

Usode legendarnegaCirila Križnarja(1934–1968)

Jadralno letalstvo

foto: Ivan Sajevic

( 65 )

{ Jadralno letalstvo }

Morda bi jo moral popisati pisatelj Danilo Kiš v Enciklopediji mrtvih; njegovo življenje je bilo kot pri-poved v Mojstru in Margareti, zdi se, da je imel pri Ciku prste vmes Woland, ki v Mojstru in Margareti pooseblja

hudiča. Morda mu je usoda želela to povedati že takrat, ko so ga kratko-hlačnika starši peljali na predstavo opere Carmen. Tudi Bizetova ciganka je imela, kot zatrjujejo poznavalci libreta, enega samega gospodarja – usodo.

Mulčka iz Guncelj je zanimalo smučanje, predvsem pa smučarski sko-ki, saj je imel skakalnico skoraj na domačem dvorišču. A privlačnost je zaslutil v šentviškem letalskem modelarskem krožku, še posebno, ko so prek zime uspešno obnovili podarjenega vrabca. Radodarni mestni ja-dralni konkurenti pa so se premislili in fantom letalo, še preden so ga ti preizkusili, na tihem ukradli. Ciko se je razjezil, šel je na letališče v Polju, se vpisal v aeroklub in začel leteti, pa čeprav je bil uradno še premlad. O svoji starosti se je zlagal. Takrat mu je usoda prvič požugala. Z vrabcem je krepko udaril ob tla, nekaj dni preživel v bolnici in v zdravilišču na Rakitni. Čim se je pozdravil, je z letenjem nadaljeval, a se je kasneje bal strogih zdravniških pregledov, mladostni udarec ob tla pa mu je očitno pustil nekaj posledic na sluhu.

Njegovi letalski mentorji v Ljubljani so ugotovili, da je iz pravega testa, kmalu so ga postavili na odgovorno mesto – na sedež motorne-ga vitla – in kmalu je deloval kot učitelj jadralnega letenja. V svojem kratkem klubskem obdobju je preskakoval po tri stopnice in mnogi, precej starejši fantje so se samo čudili. Tudi za akrobacije je imel pravo roko, naučil se jih je v skupini vrstnikov pod mentorsko taktirko Jožeta Dolinarja in Branka Žigerja, ki sta jih hkrati učila akrobatskega letenja na jadralni mački in motornem bikerju. Še danes se spominjajo njegovih akrobatskih avantur – z mačko je, denimo, na mitingih letel na hrbtu, kakšen meter nad tlemi, nato pa potegnil čez hangar in naslednji trenu-tek pristal.

Oče obrtnik, ki je bil umetniško navdahnjen – vse sinove in hčere je ovekovečil z oljem na platno, doma so igrali na klavir, med vojno je za Savo starejše potomce naučil plavati –, je moral kmalu po vojni za ve-dno zapustiti veliko družino. Za Križnarjeve se je začel boj za preživetje in tako kot vsi mladi člani družine je moral tudi on nabirati borovnice in gobe. Zaslužiti je bilo treba nekaj cvenka za šolske knjige. Tudi tu se skriva ključ za razumevanje njegovih kasnejših ravnanj, denimo, tvegane službe v Jemnu.

Opravil je srednjo poklicno strojno šolo, kaj hitro se je zaposlil v Lito-stroju, kmalu je postal upravnik aerokluba v Murski Soboti, mimogrede še inšpektor za motorno letenje pri slovenski letalski zvezi (ZLOS), spo-toma se je vpisal na fakulteto za strojništvo. Ko je profesor na fakulteti ugotovil, da prijateljuje z njegovo hčerjo, mu je dal vedeti, da to zanj ne bo dobro, a Ciko si za študij tako ali tako ni vzel časa. Vemo, da je zbiral denar za vespo, da bi ugajal dekletu in staršem, a ko so mu odprli vrata v Adrii Airways, je pozabil na profesorja in njegove kotle. Opravil je izpit za kopilota na DC-6.

Po krizi v Adrii Airways se je skupina pilotov skupaj z letali DC-6 pre-selila v jemensko letalsko družbo Basco Airline. Križnarja in Sajevica, ki sta se skupini pridružila zadnja, so angažirali za letenje na DC-3 in za

prevoze, ki so bili tudi vojaško obarvani. Vemo, da so njuno letalo pred pristankom v Ataku sestrelili nasprotniki režima, za katerega sta delala, a kaj bolj natančnega o njuni usodi ne vemo.

Avgusta lani je minilo 40 let, odkar se je za njima izgubila sled. V Sloveniji ni bilo nikogar, ki bi se spomnil na njegovo bivanje in športne uspehe. Brez lažnega poveličevanja lahko rečemo, da je bil eden izmed jadralskih genijev, in še danes krožijo po letalskih spletnih straneh o njem zanimive pripovedi. Peto mesto na svetovnem prvenstvu v jadral-nem letenju s kovinskim meteorjem leta 1965 v South Cerneyu v Veliki Britaniji je tretji največji dosežek slovenskih jadralcev na svetovnih prvenstvih. Križnar je v odprtem razredu zmagal četrti tekmovalni dan, v prostem preletu je opravil 210 milj dolg let. Organizatorji so mu podelili priznanje za dosežek prvenstva. Ohranil se je utrinek: Ciko je reprezen-tančne prijatelje rešil zadrege, ko so organizatorji povabili jugoslovansko ekipo na vljudnostni obisk k potomcem slavnega Charlesa Dickensa. Se-del je za klavir in zapel. Zadrege ni bilo več. Med njegove športne uspehe uvrščamo tudi nastop na evropskem aerorallyju (Split, Atene, Dunaj, München), ko sta s slovenskim KB-11 letela z Marjanom Bizjanom v vlogi navigatorja in jima je gorelo nad koleni; vse do cilja se nista pustila pre-strašiti in sta pristala na četrtem mestu.

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( 67 )

Leta 1965 je Letalska zveza Jugoslavije proglasila Križnarja za najboljše-ga športnika v družini letalskih športov – prejel je »zlatega orla«, simbol Mednarodne letalske zveze. Še istega leta je v Sloveniji prejel Bloudkovo plaketo, priznanje za športne dosežke, ki so jih takrat podeljevali prvič. Tudi to govori o Križnarjevi športni nadarjenosti in priljubljenosti. V

Cikovih časih je imelo letalstvo v očeh mladih posebno mesto, delež k takemu ozračju pa je prispeval tudi Ciril Križnar–Ciko (1934–1968), ki je v svojem kratkem življenju preživel v jadralnih letalih približno 800 ur.

{ Gliding }

( 68 )

{ Gliding }

The Destiniesof the Legendary Ciril Križnar(1934-1968)Text: Niko Slana

Why of the multitude of glider pilots who have flown or still do professionally for Adria Airways, did we choose Ciril Križnar and invest him with an aura of legend? In Slovenian flying circles the glider pilots

Franček Mordej, Vine Žakelj and Franc Štrukelj were equally charismatic, and even Marjan Bizjan started off amongst them, while just recently Janez Pintar and Miha Thaler were flying, and Aleš Maraž, Igor Kolarič, Željko Roškar and Sebastjan Ramšak are still competing successfully. But Ciko, as his friends called him, had an especially interesting child-hood in aviation, and his albeit brief time as an aviator charted a rapid but mercurial ascent. In his life he sought out his own path.

Perhaps it should have been recorded by the writer Danilo Kiš in his Encyclopaedia of the Dead, and his life is like some narrative out of The Master and Margarita; indeed it seems as if in Ciko there was something of Woland, who personifies the devil in The Master and Margarita. Per-haps destiny sought to tell him this early on, when his parents took their little stripling along to a performance of the opera Carmen. As those of you who know the libretto will confirm, Bizet’s gypsy also had one sole master – destiny.

The young lad from Gunclje was interested in skiing, but most of all in ski jumping, since there was a jump almost right in his back yard. Yet he also sensed the attraction of the Šentvid aviation modelling circle, especially when they spent the winter successfully restoring a donated Vrabec plane. However, the generous local gliding competitors had a change of heart, and before the lads could try it out, they stole back the glider. Ciko was furious, so he went to the airfield in Polje, enrolled in the flying club and started to fly, even though he was officially too young. He lied about his age. It was then that fate first wagged a finger at him. He brought the Vrabec down hard onto the ground, and spent several days in hospital and at the sanatorium at Rakitna. As soon as he was better, he got back to flying, but later he feared the strict medical exams, the crash in his youth having clearly left some impairment to his hearing.

His aviation mentors in Ljubljana reckoned he was made of the right stuff, and soon he was put in a position of responsibility – at the seat of the winch – and not long after that he was teaching people how to glide. In his short time at the club, he advanced in leaps and bounds,

and many much older boys just watched in amazement. He also had the right feel for aerobatics, learning his skills in the group guided by Jože Dolinar and Branko Žiger, who taught them at the same time aero-batics in a Mačka glider and powered Biker. Today people still recall his acrobatic stunts, for instance when he would fly his Mačka at competi-tions about a metre above the ground, upside down, then haul it over the hangar and the next instant land it.

Soon after the war, his artisan father, who was artistically inspired – he immortalised all his sons and daughters in oil on canvas, at home they played the piano, and during the war he taught his older off-spring to swim in the Sava – departed the large family for ever. For the Križnars the struggle for survival began, and like all the young mem-bers of the family he too had to collect blueberries and mushrooms. He had to earn some cash for school books. Here, too, lies the key to under-standing his later actions, for instance his risky job in Yemen.

He completed secondary vocational engineering school, got a job fairly quickly at Litostroj, and soon became administrator of the flying club at Murska Sobota, while also becoming an inspector for motorised aviation at the Slovenian Aviation Association and enrolling at the me-chanical engineering faculty. When the professor at the faculty found out that he was fraternising with his daughter, he let Ciril know that this would not be good for him, but in one way or another he neglected his studies. We know he got the money together for a Vespa, to please the girl and her parents, but when the door to Adria Airways opened, he forgot about the professor and his boilers. He took the exam to co-pilot a DC-6.

Following the crisis at Adria Airways, a group of pilots, together with DC-6 aircraft, moved to the Yemeni operator BASCO Airline. Križnar and Sajevic, who were the last to join the group, were hired to fly DC-3s and to perform transports that also had a military angle. We know that on its approach to landing at Atak, their aircraft was shot down by op-ponents of the regime for which they were working, but we know noth-ing more precise about their fate.

August last year marked 40 years since we lost all trace of them. In Slovenia there was no one who might remember his life here and sporting triumphs. It would be no false glorification to say that he was a genius of gliding, and fascinating tales about him are still doing the rounds on aviation websites. At the 1965 world gliding championship at South Cerney in Britain, he won fifth place in a metal Meteor, and this was the third highest achievement of any Slovenian glider at the world championships. In the open class Križnar won the fourth competition day, and in free flying he performed a flight 210 miles long. The organis-ers presented him with an award for his achievements at the champi-onship. An anecdote remains of when Ciko saved his team-mates from an awkward situation when the organisers invited the Yugoslav team on a courtesy visit to the descendants of the famous Charles Dickens. He sat at the piano and sang. The awkwardness was over. His success in sport also includes a performance in the European Aerorally (Split, Athens, Vienna, Munich), when he flew a Slovenian KB-11 with Marjan Bizjan as navigator, and he was burned above the knees, but remained focused until the finish and landed in fourth place.

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HRBTNI LET je višja stopnja akrobatskega letenja: za pilota se upravljanje

letala v tem položaju otežuje, saj mora razmišljati in delovati zrcalno. Visoko

nad zemljo to niti ni problem, malo pa je pilotov, ki bi si drznili leteti z jadral-

nim letalom, obrnjenim na hrbet, tik nad zemljo. Ciko je bil eden redkih, ki si je

privoščil tudi to.

JOŽE DOLINAR je bil jadralni in motorni pilot. Ni imel sicer svoje šole, ampak

je bil samo mentor (učitelj) mladim jadralcem. Dolinar je kasneje uspešno letel

kot prometni pilot in učitelj letenja v Nemčiji. Branko Žiger, ki je pozneje študi-

ral operno petje na Reki, je istočasno to skupino učil akrobatskega letenja na

motornem letalu Biker, ki so si ga sposodili v Zagrebu. Z njim so vlekli v zrak

mačko, spotoma pa se je eden od jadralcev – vsi so bili tudi motorni piloti –

učil še akrobacij z motornim letalom.

EVROPSKI AERORALLY se je začel v Splitu, nadaljeval do Aten, pristali so

na Dunaju in nadaljevali pot do Münchna, kjer je bil cilj. Težko je na kratko

napisati, kaj vse se je dogajalo. V letalu KB-11 jima je pred Dunajem zagorela

električna napeljava, Bizjan, kasneje dolga leta šef pilotov v Adrii, je bil navi-

gator, na tem letu pa se je ukvarjal s požarom. Pred dnevi sem z njim govoril

in povedal je, kako je potrgal vso električno napeljavo; edina zadeva, ki je še

delovala, so bila zakrilca, akumulator pa sta hranila za pristanek in spuščanje

teh zakrilc. Brez toka so bili vsi inštrumenti, kolesa sta spuščala s pomožno

hidravlično črpalko. Vseeno sta med več kot stotimi posadkami osvojila 4.

mesto.

210 MILJ DOLG LET NA SVETOVNEM PRVENSTVU – takrat so leteli v zelo

težavnih razmerah, pretežno po oblakih. Danes si nihče več ne predstavlja

takšnega letenja po oblakih in je za jadralce tudi prepovedano. Meteor je bil

dokaj zahtevno letalo, Križnar pa je dokazal, da ga dobro obvlada. Narejena

sta bila samo dva primerka meteorja.

FLYING UPSIDE DOWN – this is an advanced aerobatic skill, since control of

the aircraft in this position is made harder by the pilot having to think and act

in reverse. High above the ground this is no problem, but there are few pilots

who would dare fly a glider upside down just above the ground. Ciko was on of

the few who felt able to do this.

JOŽE DOLINAR – was a glider and powered aircraft pilot. Of course he did not

have a school to speak of, but was simply a mentor (teacher) for young gliders.

Dolinar later flew successfully as a commercial pilot and flying teacher in Ger-

many. Branko Žiger, who later studied opera singing in Rijeka, was at the same

time teaching the group aerobatics in a powered Biker aircraft, which he was

lent in Zagreb. They would use it to pull the Mačka glider into the air, and then

one of the pilots – they were all also able to fly powered aircraft – would learn

aerobatics in the powered plane.

EUROPEAN AERORALLY – the Rally started in Split, continued to Athens,

landed in Vienna and then continued to the finish in Munich. It is hard to de-

scribe briefly what happened. Before reaching Vienna the electrical circuitry

caught fire in the KB-11 aircraft, and Bizjan, who was later chief pilot at Adria

for many years, was on board as navigator, but on this flight he had to deal

with the fire. A few days ago I spoke to him, and he told me how he pulled out

all the electrics; the only thing left working was the flaps, and they saved the

battery for lowering the flaps and landing. There was no power to any of the in-

struments, and the wheels were lowered using a hydraulic pump. Even so, out

of more than 100 crews they won fourth place.

210 MILE FLIGHT AT THE WORLD CHAMPIONSHIP – here they were flying in

very difficult conditions, mostly in clouds. Nowadays no one would dream of

flying like that in clouds, and it is even prohibited for gliders. The Meteor was

quite hard to fly, but Križnar showed he could handle it well. Only two models

of the Meteor were produced.

In 1965 the Yugoslav Aviation Association declared Križnar the best sports person in the field of aviation sports, and he received the “gold-en eagle”, symbol of the International Aviation Federation. In the same year in Slovenia he received a Bloudek plaque, one of the first to be awarded, in recognition of his sports achievements. This, too, speaks

of Križnar’s talent in sports and of his popularity. In Ciko’s time, flying had a special place in the eyes of young people, and part of that atmos-phere was indeed created by Ciril Križnar – Ciko (1934-1968), who in his short life as a glider notched up around 800 hours. A

foto

: Zdr

avko

Mar

kovš

ek

Meteor

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Jadralno letenje je ljubiteljski in tekmovalni šport. Nekje na sredini med obema je letenje za dosežke. Jadralci se z njimi predstavljajo

na mednarodni spletni strani in se med seboj primerjajo v dokaj širokem okviru neke regije, denimo, alpskih dežel. Spet drugi se potegujejo za mednarodna priznanja, nekateri jadralci pa so se odpovedali vsakršnemu dokazovanju. Letijo zgolj za svojo zabavo. Ampak povedati je treba kar takoj, da je zabava slab izraz, bolj bi ustrezalo zadovoljstvo. Kajti jadralno letenje nima nikakršnega pridiha romantike ali česa podobnega. Jadralci skupine, za katero so pomembni dosežki, se s svojimi letali gibljejo na meji možnega. Ja, morda je prav to tisti mik, ki neprestano vleče? Kdo bi to razumel?!

Divjecesarska doživetja

Jadralno letalstvo

Besedilo: Niko Slana

Ko smo Andreja Kolarja iz Lesc, enega najuspešnejših slovenskih alpskih jadralcev, vprašali, kako bi nekomu, ki ni jadralec, razložil, za kakšen dosežek gre, denimo, pri FAI trikotniku 750 km, je dejal: »Potnik, ki v velikem letalu po-

tuje z Brnika proti zahodu, naj pogleda na uro in potem skozi lino. Tako daleč, kot prileti airbus v pol ure, letimo tudi jadralci. Spodaj so alpski vrhovi, ledeniki, divje alpske doline. Seveda pa moramo še domov, na izhodišče.«

Jadralec, ki se loti velikega 750 km obsežnega trikotnika z izhodiščem v Lescah, mora leteti na sever čez avstrijske Alpe in vse do zadnjih hribov v Nemčiji, ki se še držijo Alp. Tam je hribovska mrcina z imenom Wilder Kaiser in zato so temu trikotniku nadeli prijateljsko ime Divjecesarski. Od tam morajo še malo naprej, pa ne zaradi razgleda na bavarsko ravan. Tam je pač točka, do katere je treba prileteti, da bi na koncu sestavili tistih vražjih 750 km. Za hrbtom imajo nešteto alpskih grebenov, pred seboj pa griče, ki se spuščajo v bavarsko pokrajino.

Mogočni Wilder Kaiser je znamenje, da bo treba zaviti proti jugozaho-du. Zapeljati se morajo v dolino Engadina, prek spodnje je treba splezati do zgornje. Najbrž ni treba razlagati, da so tu hribi visoki preko 3000 m, tako da so tudi pašniki pod krili neznansko visoko. Ampak vrnitve ni več, zdaj je treba samo še naprej. Smer jugovzhod najbrž ne pove veliko, opis je bolj slikovit, če povemo, da druga stranica velikega trikotnika vodi v Švico, prav do St. Moritza. Tu se znova obrnejo proti domu, na vzhod. Navadno je takrat že pozna ura in začenja se boj s časom. Zadnjih 300 km poti proti domu je najbolj občutljiv del poleta. Sonce že izgublja moč, vzgonska dviganja slabijo ali izginjajo v dolinskih sencah. Če so jadralci dopoldne slutili vremenski preobrat, jih bo ta po še-stih ali sedmih urah letenja zagotovo dosegel. In še marsikaj jih lahko zavre na dolgi poti.

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{ Gliding }

Vračanje proti domu je poker. Jadralec za upanje zastavi drago letalo, svoje znanje in živce … Grebeni, prek katerih je treba skočiti iz Švice do Dolomitov, so še zmeraj neznansko visoki. Tam nekje pri Corvari ali Brunicu se močneje prižge iskra upanja na srečno vrnitev. Če narava ugasne svoje tople zračne gejzire, je prikladna možnost za pristanek na letališču v Toblachu. In ko jadralec v daljavi zasluti mogočni Dobrač, si z zanimanjem ogleduje, če je ostalo še kaj od njegove oblačne kape. Ta je ključ za zadnjo visoko oviro – Karavanke. Če ni že prej preskočil na grebe-ne Karnijskih Alp, mora zdaj prek njih v vznožje slovenskih Julijcev in v Zgornjesavsko dolino. Ta pozna ura za jadralce ni posebno prijazna, a ne preostane jim nič drugega, kot da ji skušajo vzeti še zadnje atome moči, ki jih je sonce čez dan naložilo v pobočja, obrnjena v zahodno sonce. Ko se po devetih, desetih ali še več urah letenja znova dotaknejo domačega letališča, morda začutijo zadovoljstvo. Saj ste razumeli, da letijo brez

motorja, izkoriščajoč dvigajoče zračne tokove, in da jim nešteti zavoji, ki jih pritiskajo na sedež letala, poberejo veliko moči in volje.

Prvi od Slovencev je opravil opisani trikotnik Miha Thaler, Boris Žorž ga je raztegnil že čez 800 km, Andrej Kolar je pravi poznavalec, zmogel ga je že nekajkrat, Luka Žnidaršič in Karel Čeč sta si ga prav tako vpisala v svojo le-talsko knjižico, Tone Čerin, Tomaž Štupnik, Aleš Šuster so pristali tik pred ciljem. Aleš Maraž dosega podobne daljave z izhodišča v Ajdovščini.

Ampak – saj niso samo veliki trikotniki, še veliko drugih izzivov se lo-tevajo slovenski jadralci. Boštjan Pristavec (pa ne samo on) je z ultralah-kim letalom Apis postavil nekaj svetovnih rekordov, v Namibiji pa je v zadnjih petih letih opravil že več kot petdeset letov preko 1000 km, veči-no v trikotniku; njegov največji trikotnik znaša 1250 km. Vse to so bili leti od zgodnjega dopoldneva do zadnjega sončnega žarka nad Kalaharijem.

Namibija/Namibia,foto: Boštjan Pristavec

{ Gliding }

Wild Emperor AdventuresText: Niko Slana

Gliding is both a recreational activity and a competitive sport. Somewhere halfway between the two is something that could be described as "achievement gliding". Glider pilots post their feats on an international

website and compare each other's achievements within the fairly broad context of a given region, for example Alpine countries. Others try for international titles and recognition, but some pilots have turned their backs on competition of every kind. They fly merely for their own amusement. It should be said, however, that amusement is probably the wrong expression. Satisfaction would be nearer the mark. Because there is nothing romantic or anything like that about gliding. Glider pilots who belong to the group where achievements are important take their gliders to the very edges of the possible. Is that perhaps the attrac-tion that draws them perpetually onwards? Who knows?

When we asked Andrej Kolar of Lesce, one of Slovenia's most successful Alpine glider pilots, how he would explain to someone who is not a glider pilot what kind of a feat it is to complete, say, a 750 km FAI triangle, he gave us the following answer: "A passenger on an airliner trav-elling from Ljubljana Airport towards the west should look at his watch and then out of the window. The distance that an Airbus can cover in half an hour – that's how far we glider pilots fly. Below us are Alpine peaks, glaciers, wild Alpine val-leys. And then of course we still have to get back to where we started from."

Pilots who tackle the big 750-kilometre triangle starting in Lesce must fly north across the Austrian Alps and all the way to the last hills in Ger-many that still touch the Alps. There they find a monster of a hill that goes by the name of Wilder Kaiser, so naturally they have nicknamed this triangle the "Wild Emperor Triangle". From there, they must fly on a little further, but not for the sake of a view of the Bavarian plain. This is in fact the point that they have to reach in order to ensure that the total number of kilometres flown adds up to 750 at the end. Behind their backs are the countless ridges of the Alps, and in front of them the hills descending into the Bavarian countryside.

The mighty Wilder Kaiser is the sign that it will soon be time to turn towards the south-west. Now they have to head for the Engadin Valley, climbing through the Lower Engadin to the Upper Engadin. There is prob-ably no need to point out that the mountains here are over 3,000 metres

high, and that even the pastures beneath the glider's wings are incredibly high up. But there is no turning back: now all they have to do is keep go-ing. "A south-east direction" does not convey very much, so a more vivid description would be to say that the second side of the great triangle leads into Switzerland, to St Moritz in fact. Here the pilots turn towards home, to the east. Usually it is already getting late and the battle with time is beginning. The last 300 kilometres in the homeward direction are the most sensitive part of the flight. The sun is already losing its power and the sources of lift are weakening or disappearing in the shadows of the valleys. If the pilots sensed a change in the weather in the morning, it will certainly have reached them after six or seven hours' flying. And there are still many things that can slow them down on their long journey.

The return home is like a game of poker. The pilot gambles his expen-sive aircraft, his skill and his nerves… The mountain ridges over which he needs to pass on his way from Switzerland to the Dolomites are still enor-mously high. Somewhere near Corvara or Brunico, the spark of hope of a safe return starts to burn brighter. If nature switches off its thermals, the ascending columns of warm air that allow the glider to climb, there is the possibility of a landing at the airfield in Toblach. And when the pilot sens-es mighty Dobrač in the distance, he peers eagerly ahead to see whether any of its cloud cover remains. This is the key to the last high obstacle – the Karavanke range. If he has not yet reached the crests of the Carnic Alps, he must now go across them and into the foothills of Slovenia's

Julian Alps and the Upper Sava Valley. At this late hour this is not particularly pleasant for glider pilots, but there is nothing for it but to try and draw from it the last atoms of energy that the sun has poured into its westward-facing slopes during the day. When they touch down at their home airfield after nine or ten hours' flying – sometimes even more – perhaps they feel satisfaction. Because of course it is understood that they fly without an engine, taking ad-vantage of rising air currents, and that

the countless circling turns that press them into the aircraft's seat use up a great deal of strength and willpower.

The first Slovenian to complete the triangle was Miha Thaler. Boris Žorž has already stretched it out to over 800 kilometres. Andrej Kolar knows it very well, having flown it several times. Luka Žnidaršič and Karel Čeč have likewise entered it into their flying logs. Tone Čerin, Tomaž Štupnik and Aleš Šuster were forced to land just before the finish. Aleš Maraž achieves similar distances from his base in Ajdovščina.

But it is not only about big triangles. Slovenian glider pilots also tackle many other challenges. Boštjan Pristavec (and he is not the only one) has set a number of world records with an Apis ultralight, while over the last five years he has made more than fifty flights of over 1,000 kilometres in Namibia, most of them triangles. His biggest triangle measures 1,250 kilo-metres. All of these were flights lasting from the early morning until the last ray of sun over the Kalahari. A

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foto

: Boš

tjan

Pri

stav

ec

Boris Žorž

Andrej Kolar

Luka Žnidaršič

Miha Thaler

Aleš Šuster

Tomaž Štupnik

Boštjan Pristavec

Aleš Maraž

Dolomiti,foto: Boštjan Pristavec

foto

: Luk

a Žn

idar

šič

foto

: Nik

o S

lana

foto

: Nik

o S

lana

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