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Volume 1. 2009 JournalJournalPRACTITIONERSAESTHETICS

The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)

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APJ 6

wonderful articles and information that we are

presenting in this journal that will help you

identify how you can benefit by being part of the

exciting new industry organisation.

If you are in business we have some great articles

written by specialists in their fields. The

Psychology of Positive Human Contact —

Developing skills that build Client Loyalty by Rod

Jones is an excellent article that present some

interesting information on powerful comunication

elements to help you grow your business,

especially during difficult financial times.

Financial Matters – The Value of Simplification by

Sean Macnamara will reveal how financial

structures can benefit you by helping you save

money from fees and charges that you may not be

aware of. Caroline Nelson in her usual no-

nonsense style tackles the subject Salon Retail

Strategies — Show me the Money with some great

tips on how to keep your cash flow rolling.

If you would like to ensure that your salon is

indeed a safe haven when it comes to toxicity

please read How to minimise toxicity and control

infections in the workplace for some great

recommendations. We have a great article

on TGA Compliance by Dr Derrek Beech

that you should all read. News is presented in two Change of season is always an exciting time for me, areas — Scientific News that presents research because somehow it brings a fresh energy of information on anti-ageing issues and the Aesthetic excitement and renewal, and so as we approach the end Industry Bulletin that will cover aesthetic specific of winter we can look forward to the blooms of spring news, Training Dates and Test Your Knowledge where in the not so distant future. we give you the opportunity to see how much you have

No doubt many of you will be attending the Sydney retained from the information you have read. Why not

International Spa and Beauty Expo with the give it a go and find out? There are numerous excellent

expectation of finding out more about new launches articles on technologies that reveal how to get the best

and celebrating the joy of being part of this dynamic results from your treatments, and there is also some

industry. And talking of exiting new launches I trust though-provoking information on educational issues

you will enjoy our inaugural issue of the and the value of networking with healthcare

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL – the professionals.

new publication that promises to bring a new level of Don’t forget to check out the special deal we have support to our industry, but more importantly to you. negotiated for our readers to attend the AustralAsian At this point I would like to announce that I have Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference, resigned from my position as the Editor of the which will be held in Melbourne on the 3-4 October. Australian Aesthetic Journal. This journal — the And this offer is only the beginning. There will be AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL is many more to come.the official journal of the AESTHETICS

PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK By receiving this journal I trust we can help make your

(APAN) and both this journal and APAN are in no day even better Happy reading and enjoy your journal.

way linked to the APAA. Kind regards

Every new offer has value, but you need to take the

time to investigate and determine what’s in it for you.

So I encourage you to Tina Vineytake a few minutes to Editor/CEOread some of the

Editor’s Letter

EditorTina Viney Phone (07) 5593 0360Fax: 07 5593 0367Email: info@apanetwork.comWeb: www.apanetwork.com

Typesetting & GraphicsMark Viney

Advertising and MarketingTina Viney Phone: 07 5593 0360Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd8 Parkdale Court Robina Qld 4218 Fax: 07 5593 0367Mobile: 0412 177 423Email: info@kharis.com

Publishers

Pty Ltd

Design, Production andArtworkKharis Enterprises Pty Ltd8 Parkdale Court Robina Q 4226Phone: 07 5593 0360Fax: 07 5593 0367Mobile: 0412 177 423Email: info@kharis.com

Produced forAesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty LtdACN 136 987 169ABN 25 136 987 169

Print Post Approved.Circulation 5000

Accounts PayableAPAN Pty LtdPO Box 5448Q Super Centre Qld 4218Australia

Journal Advisory BoardTerry EverittWendy NeelyDr Doug GrosseCaroline Nelson

Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network

This publication is not associated in any way with the Association of Professional Aestheticians of Australia (APAA).The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business practices and industry advancements.

All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of Aesthetics Practioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.

Cover: Jane Iredale

MargiFox Distributors

Tel: 1300 850 008email: enquiries@margifox.com.au

ceo’s report

APJ 8

Dear Colleagues and Friends

It gives me great pleasure that I welcome you to the first issue of the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal and I trust that we will stay in touch for many years to come. This is an exciting time for us as we plan to deliver new and vital information that will help you grow your confidence and increase your awareness of where the aesthetic industry is moving to and the new frontiers in wellness that are opening up great possibilities for our industry.

In this issue we cover a great deal about the launch of APAN – AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK to help you understand the purpose of the organisation and how it plans to support the industry in new and more contemporary ways through a spirit of excellence.

As the official publication of APAN, the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal will play a key role in helping shape your future, if of course you allow it to do so. By engaging in the pages of each issue we hope to take you through an interesting journey that will broaden your scope of options and take you to a new place in your knowledge. Each issue will have a key underlying theme.

As you will see, this first issue covers several conceptional topics about attitudes towards yourself in determining where you want to go, as well as attitudes towards knowledge and learning. We have deliberately focused on these issues as we plan to establish a foundation for things to come. This is because some of the information we will be presenting in future issues will challenge your thinking and encourage you to look beyond the standard ways of viewing the skin and the body as well as the way you do business. In our next issue of APJ we will be focusing on various technologies, ingredients and products and how they impact the skin and body.

As we investigate the emerging shifts and developments that are affecting our industry and those that are still in their formative stages, we recognise the importance of helping you prepare to face the future by growing your awareness and knowledge in these areas. As a journal, this publication will in some instances cover information to a greater depth than you would expect of a magazine. The aim for this will be to help you grasp new concepts and become more grounded with research or scientific findings on how the body is impacted by factors that prematurely age it. It will also look at how these factors may govern the outcome of your skin therapy results in terms of their longevity.

The purpose of APAN as an organisation and its publication is to deliver to you tools and information that can make a real difference in your professional life. Some information may stretch you beyond your comfort zone, but it will ultimately give you the confidence to consider new options for upgrading your services to meet the changing future needs.

We trust you will allow us to continue to support you in this way by joining as a member of the organisation. Please review pages 48-50 for further details.

Let’s continue to make our work not only beneficial to our clients, but also rewarding and enjoyable to us.

Kind regards

Tina VineyCEO

Excellence is not a skill. It is an attitude.

Ralph Marston

Expanding your Horizons

product performersproduct performersAPAN, INDUSTRY REPORTS AND NEWS

SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH/ANTI-AGEING/INGREDIENTS

BUSINESS & PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT

EDUCATION/TECHNOLOGY

BUSINESS AND PROFESSIONAL PROFILE

STANDARDS AND REGULATIONS

PRODUCTS

8 CEO’s Report10-13 APAN – The birth of a new organisation48-50 The value and Benefits of APAN Membership84 APAN Networking Centre92-95 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin92 Test your knowledge93, 95 International Aesthetic & Spa Show Calendar 2009

54-55 The nutritional benefits of Magnesium for Skin and Body

56-57 Vitamin D – the Cinderella of Vitamins64-67 Investing in your Professional Development –

rd 3 Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference

90-91 Scientific News96-97 Perfluorodicalin – a new advancement in skin

oxygenation

14-16 Your vision – your destiny22-24 How to win the Corporate Client36-37 Making changes that will strengthen your position46-47 The Psychology of Positive Human Contact –

Developing the skills that build client loyalty72-73 Salon Retail Strategies – Show me the Money86-87 The Beauty of PR88-89 Financial Matters – the Value of Simplification

18-20 Revisiting the way you evaluate the skin21 Guidelines to staying compliant with regulations when using new technology32-34 The Anatomy of Learning44 LED Light for Skin Therapy52 Advancing your skills – Increasing your income58-59 The Value of an Aesthetician attending a medical

conference60-62 Extending your treatment possibilities in rejuvenation

of the ageing face and skin with Phototherapy Technologies

71 Dixon Technique 82-83 Bring colour back to Women’s lives

26-27 Traditional formulations in a Modern Era38-41 A Pioneer of Progress68-70 Gaining the winning formula

28-30 How to minimise toxicity and control infection in the workplace42-43 The Regulation of Aesthetic Products in Australia

74-81 Product releases

APJ 9

apan business

APJ 10

APJ 11

Many of us would agree that pressures could either break us or bring This may appear a little superficial, but another report also confirmed out the best in us. Adversity can sometimes be the catalyst of that consumers are now looking for ways to minimise their stress levels ingenuity. It challenges us to grow stronger in order to survive and to and purchase items that make them feel good. It is therefore not wise to seek new and better ways of reaching our goals and objectives. discuss gloom and doom topics with your clients, but rather how a visit

to you will lift their spirits and make them feel and look so much better I am an avid follower of global events, because I want to compare what than when they came in. This will ensure they always consider a visit is happening on the home front with the rest of the world. Indeed, to you as a positive experience. global economic indicators confirm that times are tough and we can expect this to continue for some time. Nevertheless, economic experts are stressing that there are some excellent opportunities and those who First you must ensure that your services and products are the very best take advantage of them will position themselves to boom in future to ensure that your clients still consider you as a “priority” or important years when the economy recovers, which is estimated to start by 2011. enough to continue to visit you. Then you need to look at ways to

continue to grow your client base. This is where networking comes in because it is an important strategy.

So where does the aesthetic industry fit into the scheme of things? Indications confirm that several small businesses without a strong plan Not only is networking an essential life skill, it is also the most basic for growth are choosing to leave the industry or to move to a home- business building tool in today’s competitive market. Did you know based business where their overheads are more manageable. On the that in Australia networking accounts for more than 87 per cent of all other hand, several medium to larger establishments have worked hard business?to protect their investments and utilise strategies that continue to secure the loyalty of their clients and even grow their business. Creating information evenings at your salon is one way of growing

your clientele, as are newsletters, establishing your own website, etc. In a recent report conducted by the Australian Government on the However, there are numerous other highly successful strategies that employment outlook for personal and other services (part of the Skills can help you extend your level of influence and personal development. Info project), some interesting information was presented on Some of these involve your contact and interaction with other business employment prospects. The report stated that the Department of and professional networks.

Education, Employment and Workplace Relations (DEEWRT) has The purpose of networking events is to help you advance

projected employment increases for the all of the Personal and Other professionally and make important links. These are both social events,

Services sectors. Of the 20 employing occupations in this sector while at the same time professional ones, and may come in the form of

Beauty Therapist rated fifth highest, with hairdressing taking the Conference Events or Business Networking functions. It is therefore

highest position. The report also confirmed that in the five years to important that you don’t arrive at a network event without a plan.

February 2008, employment for female workers has risen strongly, with the majority of this growth attributed to an increase of female full-time workers, and this is expected to steadily continue.

The Australian Bureau of Statistics has confirmed that consumer Read all the literature on the speakers and on the topic you will be spending on personal services still remains high, while other industry attending and come prepared to expand your knowledge.surveys indicate that consumers are now more inclined to carefully Identify any questions you would like answered on the lectures you examine what they spend their money on, making sure that they are will be attending and document these questions to ask the speakers, getting the best value for their money. if they do not cover this information in their lecture.

Look for interesting people, such as other colleagues that you can make friends with. Approach them and introduce yourself.

The above statistics indicate that it is not unrealistic to maintain an Exchange business cards and invite them for a future meeting, or optimistic position for the aesthetic industry. However, certain for a coffee to become more acquainted and to exchange ideas.measures must be taken to accommodate the changing needs of the Ask questions, learn from others. Come prepared to be challenged consumers. If our products and services are to continue to be in and grow and to be stimulated and inspired.demand we need to revisit our whole approach to them. Here are some Always bring a writing pad, pen and of course your business cards, areas we should be reviewing: which you should be liberally giving out. If you are not a business

owner but a practitioner, you should still have a business card to Do your products and services offer the best value for money for give out to interesting people that you would like to catch up with at your clients or can you improve on them? a later date.Do you need to step-up and update your knowledge and your communication to ensure that your clients become fully aware that you are the “Expert”? Do you need to formalise your consultation Always dress appropriately at a business network. Chose an outfit process so that the client appreciates that you are offering them you would wear for a job interview. Your attire should say “I’m professional advice that is “personalised” to meet their exact needs professional”, not “I’m a party girl/ boy”.and expectations? This is the only way you can be assured they Expect this to be an enriching experience where you will learn will remain with you. something new and relate to other business and professional Do your products and services make your clients feel good? people.

The issue of Networking

Australian Employment Predictions for our industry

Here are a few suggestions that will ensure they are successful:

CONFERENCES:

Revisiting the way you do business

BUSINESS MEETINGS:

APAN - the birth of a New OrganisationHelping you grow and extending your circle of influence

by Tina Viney

APJ 12

APAN aims at introducing numerous networking strategies that will assist the aesthetic industry to become more skilful in the art of networking through the use of ongoing education and new tools to help them grow and prosper.

APAN will be focusing on 15 KEY AREAS of strategic support and ongoing information:

MENTORING –

BUSINESS STRUCTURES –

REGULATIONS –

TAXATION –

CLIENTS –

BUSINESS OPERATIONS –

HUMAN RESOURCES –

SERVICES –

LIFE SKILLS –

Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network ONGOING EDUCATION –

EFFECTIVE NETWORKING –

BUSINESS BENEFITS –

LEGAL ISSUES –

FINANCIAL MATTERS AND INVESTMENTS –

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK PTY LTD (APAN)

a new and contemporary organisational model.

If you believe that you can benefit from the services indicated above please download an application from the APAN website www.apanetwork.com or email info@apanetwork.com. Alternatively, you can phone 07 5593 0360 for further details. Further details also available on pages 48-50.

communication and networking that will effectively assist the industry to grow and prosper.

Through industry research it has become apparent that many businesses and practitioners are seeking a personalised approach to consultation and mentoring from experts when they encounter problems. They need help and support in identifying solutions for their work and business in order to move forward. APAN has been set up to help businesses and individuals gain the support they need quickly and efficiently through a comprehensive Mentoring/Consultation service available to its members.

Furthermore, in this current economic climate businesses need to explore new ways of growing their client base.

Go prepared to introduce yourself and to make connections. Focus on the quality not quantity of your connections at networking events. You’ll get better results by making a few good connections

The organisation has a huge vision that than by handing out dozens of business cards indiscriminately. will bring a new level of support to both practitioners and business First impressions matter, so mind your manners.owners through a cost-effective membership service.Always stay focused on the person you are talking to and maintain

eye contact. Don’t scan the room trying to decide whom you will talk to next.

Show interest in the people you meet. You can make a great Comprehensive consultation sessions with impression by asking a few thoughtful questions, and above all, be

membersgenuine and sincere.Options on how to set up your

business If you are attending a business network it is important that you present Government and Health regulationswhat you do as being relevant to their needs. Skin and aesthetic

Accounting issues made easyservices should be presented appropriately to a corporate client so that

How to get, keep and grow your client basethey can relate to them. Promise them services that are designed to address stress reduction, improved energy and concentration and a Policies and Proceduresfresher, more youthful look. (See page 22-24 for suggestions) Staff Policies, wages, employment

contractsExtending your scope of contacts is very important to your business. Products, Equipment and External Contractors Being well connected connotes success and influence – the kind of (what to look for)cachet every serious professional seeks to achieve. Personal development, managing stress,

balanced living

Staff and business owners need to The beauty industry in Australia has several Associations that support constantly update their knowledge and educationthe industry, but has lacked the services of an Advisory Network. As a

Exploring the most cost-result, a new organisation has now been launched to address this need.

effective methodsThe AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK

Getting the most from your tax (APAN) is the first professional advisory network organisation

deductionsdedicated exclusively to the service and growth of the professional

Contractsaesthetics industry.

Getting the best return for your money

is not an Association, but a network organisation APAN does not aim to duplicate other structures in place within the with an extensive vision to service the Aesthetics industry. The chief industry, but to complement and fill the gap in areas that are currently aim of APAN is to provide a strong support structure to practitioners deficient. The organisation’s objective is to better serve the industry in and businesses through areas where individuals need greater support to move forward and APAN will be using modern tools and methods with a focus on achieve their goals with greater ease. improving communications between stakeholders for business growth

and a sustainable future.

APAN is supported by a National Advisory Council consisting of highly skilled industry experts and business leaders. The Council will closely study industry changes and needs and identify areas that require improvement through a more modern approach to

AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK

Download an application from www.apanetwork.com Phone 07 5593 0360 Fax: 07 5593 0367 Email: info@apanetwork.com

PO Box 5448 Q Super Centre Queensland 4218

APAN MEMBERSHIPHelping you grow TODAY

- Connecting you to the FUTURE

Helping you grow TODAY - Connecting you to

the FUTURE

GAIN THE SUPPORT YOU NEED THROUGH:

MentoringNetworking strategiesRegular NewsletterQuarterly JournalDiscounted ServicesInsurance Merchant bankingBusiness innovative toolsProfessional Development programsBooks and Merchandising products

As a member, APAN offers you a new level of personalised service to help you more quickly achieve your goals and reach your full potential.

Join by 10 September and be in the draw to WIN 100 personalised Vogue Nail files (with your logo or contact details) valued at $154 donated by 4CP Promotional Products & Graphic Design.

Join today!

“Developing dynamic alliances for the Aesthetics Industry”

RAPC

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personal development

APJ 14

We live in a logic-driven society where success is often linked to So discover what it is that you can get excited about. If you are performance without any consideration for inspiration. We are told that frightened by the prospect of going into your deepest heart to find out – in order to achieve anything worthwhile, whether on a personal or a don’t be, for the heart is the place where you will discover what you are professional level, we need to set goals that will charter our direction really longing for. Living life to the full isn’t a selfish pursuit – it’s and help us reach our targets. But how many times have you set goals about becoming all that you were meant to be, being fulfilled in that and struggled to stick to them, and why is this so? Was it that you regard and bringing that gift to the world.lacked discipline, or was there a deeper reason? Perhaps the reason was a missing link, and this link may be a lack of inspiration, purpose and We live in a world that favours the mundane, the ordinary, the “just be above all — vision. like everybody else”. Having said that, there will be a cost to going

after “life to the full”, but it is the only way to fulfil your purpose in Vision can be defined as the ability to see something into the future that exactly the way you were meant to be. Expect that it won’t all be will break new ground – something that you have never achieved smooth sailing — you will experience setbacks and challenges even if before. It not only illuminates your mind’s eye, but it also ignites you are on the right track. But have faith that within you, you have passion in your heart. God-given gifts to help you succeed, and these gifts will find a way —

they always do if you believe in them.Our brain has two hemispheres – the right brain allows us to see pictures and be inspired by our imagination, while the left brain allows us to critically analyse and systematically and logically organise our On a personal level I have found that certain circumstances brought me activities. To stay on course with your goals both logic and opportunities to make quality decisions. There were defining imagination must be ignited and work together. But perhaps there is an moments that marked these decisions that would help me pursue my even more important issue that will help keep you on course and that is destiny. that you believe your activities reflect your core values and lead you to your destiny. Defining moments are points in time when our choices have greater

and more powerful consequences that will shape our life. These are The real question is this: On what are you spending your life, for it will times of discovery when the light of revelation comes and events surely be spent on something, whether consciously chosen or not. If change the course of our lives for ever. One such time was when I came you must spend it, why not then spend it on something that is important to the realisation that I needed to move forward and establish APAN. and meaningful to you. To spend it on your own comfort or glory is the Yes, I saw a need within the industry to establish a new structure that height of egocentricity. To spend it on trying to keep your heart “safe” would service the aesthetic industry in a new and better way, but more is wholly insane. As Helen Keller so rightly pointed out, “Life is either importantly, I had that inner conviction that this was something I had to a daring adventure or nothing. Security does not exist in nature nor step out and do because it was my destiny.does mankind as a whole experience it as a given. Totally avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than exposure”. In your own life, times of definition will present themselves in your

work, business, relationships, financial decisions and plans for the

Defining moments

your vision – your destinyby Tina Viney

APJ 15

future. These defining moments may require that you break the rules At all times you will need to keep the vision and burst through barriers that may have become quite familiar and before you and be excited at what you plan to achieve. Motivate even cosy because of the illusion of safety they convey. But once you yourself that you can and will reach your goals and fulfil your have the conviction that you must take up the challenge for change then vision. Lock in an attitude of determination that is fuelled with you need to conquer any reservations. Don’t let fear of the unfamiliar enthusiasm, and this will carry you through any challenges you hold you back, step out and embrace what your heart and head are may encounter.telling you. Justice Oliver Wendall Holmes once said, “Too many

Identify when you may need to amend or adapt to people die with their music still in them”. Let loose your own special change. New information or opportunities that offer a greater song and dance in the special way that God made you to dance – a way return may arise that were not part of the original plan. Evaluate that no-one else has ever seen or could ever do.them against your end goals and determine if you need to make some changes that will better serve the end purpose. To succeed you will not need to stay rigid to the original elements within your Once you know where you want to go this is the time to set goals and plan. Be flexible in identifying when something more establish an action plan for how you are going to reach your vision. appropriate comes along.Here you may need the assistance of an industry consultant, financial

adviser or business coach to help you formulate the best possible procedures, strategies and determine the steps you need to put in place

It’s not enough to get prepared and then become stagnant. You must to “flesh out” your vision and make it a reality. Appointing the services stay prepared. We’re told that knowledge is doubling every five years. of experts will help minimise and even eliminate any potential pitfalls So if you don’t keep growing, you’ll end up with coping skills that no that could cause you financial loss, not to mention heartache and longer match the challenges you face in the world you live in. It is a sorrow. These services will bring to you a level of professional concern that many therapists within our industry do not find the time to objectivity and expertise that will help you grow and reach your goals invest in their own education and to stay up-to-date with progress. faster, so don’t look at these costs as an expense, but as an investment in Never before do you need to make sure you remain the “expert” that your success.others turn to for the correct professional advice and services. In tough economic times consumers are reviewing what they are spending their Remember, without an action-plan you cannot move forward, but money on to make sure that it is still worth their investment. Make sure without inner conviction and a vision you will only be going through your services remain a priority for your clientele because you are the the motions that may ultimately lead to self-sabotage and failure. Your best person they can turn to for the advice and services you are offering heart and your mind are your inner team players – keep them both alive them.and talking to one another.

Preparation doesn’t begin with what you do; it begins with what you Don’t work with your mind without periodically consulting your heart. believe. If you believe that success tomorrow depends on what you do Women in particular are very intuitive and from time to time you may today, you will treat today differently. A wise sailor studies the weather feel a check about something not being quite right. Goals are there as before he goes to sea, because he knows that avoiding a storm is easier landmarks, however, as circumstances change you may need to re-than getting out of one. Howard Coonely of the National Standards evaluate them and amend them to accommodate any change to the Institute stated, “The leader of the future will be rated by his ability to landscape of where you are heading. Whatever you do don’t kill your anticipate problems rather than to meet them as they come”.vision with semantics – stay focused on the bigger picture.

Preparation is not merely an event; it’s a perspective. Abraham Lincoln said, “If I had eight hours to chop down a tree, I’d spend six Throughout your journey you will need to cultivate certain attributes sharpening my axe”. As a young man Lincoln split rails with an axe, so that will help minimise stress and help you enjoy the process. These he knew the value of a sharp one. Wisdom always prompted him to attributes include:prepare – whether he was getting ready to cut wood, study law or lead

Don’t expect everything to fall into place instantly. his country.Evaluate a realistic time-frame that your efforts will need to give you the return you are seeking. King Solomon said, “There is a In the book, , authors Dan Sullivan and time to sow and there is a time to reap”. Success comes to those Catherine Nomura explain, “Continual learning is essential for who exercise patience.

Determination –

Flexibility –

A time for establishing your foundation

Stay fresh and open to learning

Cultivating a winning mindset

Patience –

The Laws of Lifetime Growth

lifetime growth. You can have a great deal of experience and be no smarter for all the things you’ve done, seen or heard. Experience alone is no guarantee of lifetime growth. But if you regularly transform your experiences into new lessons, you’ll make each day of your life a source of growth. The smartest people are those who can transform even the smallest event or situation into breakthroughs in thinking and action. Look at all of life as a school and every experience as a lesson, and your learning will always be greater than your experience.”

Recently I saw an old Peanuts cartoon in which Charlie Schulz sees Charlie Brown at the beach building a magnificent sandcastle. “It’s a work of art,” Charlie Brown gasps. As he stands back to admire it, suddenly it’s destroyed by a big wave, as he was too close to the water’s edge. “There must be a lesson here, but for the life of me I don’t know what it is,” he says. That’s how many of us feel after a potentially valuable experience. We go through it but don’t grow. We read articles and attend seminars designed to help us learn, then do nothing with the information we have gained. Don’t get excited about a learning event – get excited about learning. Take ownership of information and allow it to transform you so that you return a changed person with a new way of looking at things and with new tools you are prepared to put to good use, for you haven’t really learnt until you own the knowledge and apply it.

As an APAN member we will be offering you numerous learning opportunities. So please check the membership details in this journal and join our professional community and you will never look back.

Find your passion in life and build your success around it and life will truly be an adventure.

APJ 16

Australia’s Largest Range Of European Laser & IPL Equipment

APJ 18

As I travel to conduct equipment training within salons I have identified that the majority of mishaps that occur are often not associated to the therapist not operating the device correctly. Regardless of the equipment they may be using, these being IPL, microdermabrasion, or any other equipment for that matter, in most cases an incident or failure to reach the expected results is due to not identifying what was really happening in the skin at the time of the treatment. The days when everything you do has been delivered as a step-by-step

training by others is fast becoming a thing of the past. The This may not mean that the therapist has been negligent in any way. contemporary therapist is now required to think for themselves, review However, it may be an indication that the new equipment she is now information they have learnt and develop their own methodologies using necessitates that she has a more scientific understanding of the and protocols for their own signature treatments that will be unique to cellular structure of the skin and how the cells will interact with the their establishment.currents that will impact them during the treatments.

As recently as just eight years ago the “natural” facial (without the use In recent times Service Skills Australia has engaged in broad and in- of equipment) was very much in vogue. Equipment was dismissed depth consultation with industry stakeholders to determine new with a greater emphasis on the totally hands-on manual facial. This developments within the beauty industry. The objective was to identify methodology ensured less risks, but also less impressive results. what new units needed to be included in the Beauty Training Package to better service the industry. Advanced devices and technologies As appearance enhancement is now a global phenomenon, skin entering the industry have resulted in rapid changes within the domain rejuvenation and anti-ageing techniques are what consumers are of treatment options. These changes now necessitate that the Training looking for, in other words they want to not only feel good, but also Package is reviewed regularly to ensure that the training and skills look younger – this is now the norm and the standard expectation. delivered meet with industry requirements. But what about therapists Salons that do not want to embrace this change risk being replaced by who are already qualified, what do they need to do to ensure that they their more forward-thinking competitors who are now able to offer real can confidently deliver the level of results that will now be required of result in anti-ageing and skin rejuvenation. This is a fact that we must them? all face.

I believe that to achieve true professional results one of the most What are the recent changes in our industry and what expectations are important skills we need to revisit is how we analyse the skin. It is now they placing on the salons and their staff? We are all aware that new necessary to not only look at the surface of the skin and recognise scientific developments have introduced more advanced and manifestations, types and conditions, but also identify underlying sophisticated equipment as well as products with greater concentration conditions before determining the best method of treating it. But why of anti-oxidants and more efficient delivery systems. This means that is this so important now?therapists now need to also update their ingredient chemistry so that they can identify new and better ways of achieving greater results In previous years skin analysis was only essential on a very basic level. through the appropriate combination of treatments and technologies This was because most of the treatments we delivered did not penetrate working in synergy. the skin and primarily worked towards softening the skin and

Even though you can expect credible training from reputable suppliers, you will not necessarily be taught how to combine them to maximise your results. This is where your knowledge of skin science and physics will allow you to critically review the new procedures you will be putting together to bring your results to the next level.

Why do we need to revisit the way we view the skin?

Revisiting the way you evaluate the skin – the Scientific ApproachRevisiting the way you evaluate the skin – the Scientific Approach

by Gay Wardle

skin science

conditioning it. However, now we are able to break some of those If you recognise that this training can also benefit you please consider penetration barriers, both through equipment and through skincare undertaking the Advanced Skin Analysis Training. technology. This is why skin evaluation has now come under greater scrutiny to deliver accurate evaluation of what is truly happening to the skin so that the correct course of action can be determined when treating it. To achieve this we need to undertake a more scientific approach to the way we evaluate the skin. Gaining these skills is now paramount to our professional reputation as they empower us to more accurately determine what choices will best benefit our clients’ skin and determine the effectiveness of their treatments.

If you are not sure if you will benefit from advanced training consider the following questions:

In recent years the importance of using the Fitzpatrick Scale to determine skin classifications has become a critical part of accurately assessing the skin’s tolerance to procedures such as skin peels, pigmentation treatments, microdermabrasion, laser and IPL treatments. However, you cannot learn how to correctly use this tool just by reading a book. In

we teach you not just to look at the colour of the skin, but also how to examine the cross-racial background of the client as this will point to underlying considerations that may change your reading of the skin. Additionally, we also train you to use this scale not as a “fixed position”, but to look how factors within your client’s activities may vary this scale reading from visit to visit.

Can you identify the three major cell groups of the skin and understand how they behave and how this knowledge can help you determine what needs the skin will have at the time of treatment?

Is the skin lacking in essential fatty acids and is the cell membrane impaired? If yes, do you know how to fix it?

Is the skin vitamin deficient? What roles does the various vitamins – Vitamins A, C, E and B play on the skin? Do you know how to identify these deficiencies and rectify them? Will you need to recommend supplementation to counteract these deficiencies?

What happens to the skin when the rete pegs are collapsed or flattened? What nutrients can you recommend to assist in their repair?

What role do peptides play on the skin? Do you know the different types of peptides and how they affect the skin?

Do you know the different ways that skin ages? What role does the red gene factor play on ageing and how does this manifest at the epidermal junction?

We know that the Spynosum layer is the largest layer in the epidermis. Do you know what happens in that lay and the role it plays in the skin’s vitality?

The (Pastiche TMMethod ) is a scientifically credible method that is

recognised globally, with over 5000 graduates who are successfully using this method to confidently determine how to achieve excellent skin-treatment results.

Training is available in every State. For further information email: info@ozabart.info or phone 0420 332 343.

Gay Wardle is respected and recognised in the aesthetic industry as a leading trainer in advanced technologies and techniques as well as for her commitment to excellence. She owns two multi-award-winning salons in Queensland that allow her to constantly trial and test treatment outcomes using her

What you should gain from your training expertise in Advanced Skin Analysis. She travels extensively throughout Australia training other salons on how to achieve the kind of success that she is

Fitzpatrick Scale – experiencing. She is known for her gracious and generous manner and for her enormous wealth of knowledge, which she liberally shares with all whom she trains. Gay Wardle can be

our Advanced Skin Analysis contacted on 0418 708 455.Training

Skin Cell Groups –

Impaired Cell Membrane –

Vitamin Deficiencies –

Collapsed rete pegs –

The role of Peptides –

Gene factors –

The Spynosum Layer –

Advanced Skin Analysis Course

APJ 19

®Training in the internationally acclaimed Pastiche Method of skin analysis will soon be available to all Australian beauty therapists and skin treatment practitioners following the acquisition of an exclusive Australian license from International Dermal Science expert and skin guru, Florence Barrett-Hill.

Queensland industry icon Gay Wardle has been chosen as the Australian licensee/facilitator and will begin training the groundbreaking skin analysis method from early 2009. Gay, who is a well-respected award-winning therapist and educator, has formed a new company Education in Advanced Aesthetics to facilitate the training. “We hope to be able to offer training across the country on a regular basis, and reach as many therapists who want to up-skill as possible” said

®Gay. Originally trained in the Pastiche Method of skin analysis five years ago, Gay has undertaken all of the post graduate training offered by Pastiche over the past five years. With this advanced knowledge she fully understands the importance of getting the initial analysis of the skin correct, as this is the basis of any successful treatment program and many skin conditions respond differently to treatments dependant on cause.

®The course Gay will be teaching will be The Pastiche Method for the skin treatment professional, (Level one) and is unique in the respect that the technically advanced protocol is non-product aligned. It was developed by internationally recognised dermal science expert, Florence Barrett-Hill, and has been taught and practised

internationally since 1994 with over five thousand graduates worldwide to date. In 2004, the core of the acclaimed course became a best selling book; with thousands of therapists, aestheticians, and skin care technicians in 16 countries and three languages taking their knowledge to the next level and spawning a new breed of skin care professionals. It is the core content of the book that will be presented in a three-day presentation consisting of theory and practical exercises.

Many leading icons in professional skin care recognise Florence (and the training programs she has developed) as one of the few people uniquely capable to take professional skin treatment therapy and non-invasive aesthetic medicine in to the realms of scientific skin care, with her expertise and educational services sought by organisations internationally.

Florence Barrett-Hill has known Gay personally for many years and is pleased that she will be presenting the training program to Australian therapists. “Gay and I share the common goal of raising the level of awareness and knowledge of the professional therapist that will allow them to become more valuable, successful and contented in their careers” said Florence. “As we develop new partnerships with talented and skilled educators such as Gay around the world, we will be able to offer more high quality training and influence the beauty industry to develop and grow to new levels of technical competence”

Long time ASLMS and APAA member Gay is well experienced and skilled to offer the Pastiche course, with over 25 years of industry experience including clinic ownership, product

distribution and the last four in technical education. With over a dozen industry related awards and a passion to help others grow, the sky is the limit for this enthusiastic, passionate skin care educator and practitioner.

“For the modern therapist and skin treatment practitioner to be taken seriously and compete with the cosmetic medicine clinics, we have to offer more accurate and credible services. This means our diagnosis of conditions and consequent choice of appropriate solutions must be of greater accuracy and skill”

For more information: EDUCATION IN ADVANCED AESTHETICS

0420 332 343 or Email: info@ozabart.info Www.advancedaesthetics.com.au www.pastiche.net.nz

Gay will be teaching the level one version of the course which is the core of the

2004 book of the same name

Gay Wardle

Australian Educator offers Advanced Skin Analysis course

APJ 20

APJ 21

Having been involved with the beauty and tanning industry in WA since 1992 Chris Comans was constantly hungry for more knowledge. A strong advocate that professionalism and training go hand-in-hand, she pursued to grow her knowledge on issues that related to standards within the beauty industry.

In 2003 she was given the opportunity to purchase DenVega – a business that provided equipment for the industry. With a commitment to high standards of training as an issue of priority, Chris travelled to the US to pursue further training. There she met Joyce Osborn, the president and CEO of BEK Incorporated, an amazing woman who was the inventor and educator of the

and a founding member of the Council of Cosmetic Teeth Whitening in the USA. Chris was so impressed with the system, the high manufacturing standards and the extensive backup and legal resources associated with the use of this device that she decided to introduce this technology to Australian salons.

Through further investigation Chris also identified two other technologies that were also manufactured by BEK Incorporated. These were:

a device utilising microcurrent that offered excellent results for skin toning and improving the appearance of age spots and pigmentation; and

for effectively improving the appearance of unsightly vascular blemishes, skin tags and acne.

Both these technologies are scientifically proven and credible and allow aesthetic practitioners to extend their treatment service. Since their launch on to the Australian market they have been highly popular as they allow therapists to provide visible and lasting results for skin improvement in appearance, as well as an additional income stream.

On researching the industry Chris recognised the importance for devices used by aesthetic practitioners to be scientifically sound, and to offer a unique point of difference through the treatments they deliver. “There are several devices that offer results,” Chris stated, “that are invasive, however, all three of our devices - the BriteWhite, VascuLite and MicroLite offer excellent results and are non-invasive.”

Chris also clarified that the is considered to be a cosmetic procedure under TGA regulations. In terms of potential income, if BriteWhite Teeth Whitening Systems is used to service just one client per day for a six-day week this would amount to $1194 per week and annually it would bring the salon a revenue of $62,000.

There has been some controversy about the territorial rights of performing teeth-whitening treatments. At this stage there is no law that prohibits this service to be provided to clients within a salon. However, for this to remain as such it is important that therapists strictly adhere to the training and guidelines as determined by their supplier. All clients should carefully read and sign a Consent Form prior to a treatment. All consumables in use should only be purchased through the recommended supplier in order that the correct results can be guaranteed. If the industry retains its professional integrity by not modifying or straying from the procedural protocols, but remains true to the principles of operation and adhere to all regulations, then technology will Assist their advancement, enhancing their reputation and contribute to their financial progress, even in difficult economic times.

BriteWhite Teeth ®Whitening System

MicroLite –

VascuLite –

®BriteWhite Teeth Whitening System

The issue of compliance

For further information on DenVega equipment and training phone Chris Comans on 1300 826 633.

GUIDELINES TO STAYING COMPLIANT WITH REGULATIONS WHEN USING NEW TECHNOLOGIES

servicing clients

APJ 22

In a world when even fashion houses have moved away from haute couture to mass production. When the genuine items are replaced by But let’s take a closer look at what makes treatment packages the faux look-a-likes. When progressively we rarely encounter the successful. For them to work they need the following three elements:exclusive or the unique and genuine in almost anything, it is not A synergy of treatments and services that best meet the needs of surprising that we are seeing a shift and renewed interest in anything the consumer and offer more enhanced resultsthat is “customised”. A cost-effective advantage in purchasing the package over

individual treatments In terms of our industry the spa revolution introduced customised A name that is inviting and enticing, while helping the client packages that went with a theme in an effort to lure clients to indulge in identify positively with the results that are promised.the “experience” through a combination of services that offered better value for their money. This trend was also necessitated because of the In our industry we see many package deals on offer, from slimming to huge overheads of running a spa and in particular a destination spa, skin-management treatment.where time was precious and serious revenue was needed to maintain the upkeep of such establishments. Rather than just offer individual The aim is to deliver a service that meets with consumer interest and services, clients were encouraged to consider taking a “package” for an demands, providing a solution to their needs. Not only should they incredible experience and an excellent saving. offer incredible value to the client, but they should also be able to be

delivered at a lesser cost to the salon. And so this trend has spilt over to the aesthetic clinics and salons in a bid to offer not only greater results to the clients, but also more secure Imagine how much time you would need to greet, prepare and deliver revenue to the salon or clinic. an eyelash and an eyebrow tint service to a client? Now imagine

offering them a facial where the tinting could be delivered while the

PACKAGES TO A TARGET MARKET

How to Win the Corporate Client – Part I

by Tina Viney

APJ 23

client was resting under a mask – no extra linen and no extra time or expense on salaries. Packages are therefore of great value not only to To achieve this you should include in a facial treatment a total de-the client, but also to the business. stressing massage that should incorporate the face, with extra emphasis

on the jaw, eyes, forehead and temples as well as the whole head, ears, neck, decolletage and shoulders. Additionally you can include a full

As I mentioned previously, packages work when they appropriately back massage as your first step, working on the spine and the nervous provide a selection of treatments to meet the needs of a target market. system. Here you can incorporate therapeutic techniques such as However, there is one area that has never been fully tapped into and that manual lymphatic drainage, motor point and pressure-point massage is customising a carefully assessed treatment package to address the and other modalities that you may be trained in. This part of the needs of the business, profession or corporate client. treatment should also include therapeutic-grade essential oils to help

fortify the relaxation process, (we will cover that in greater detail in the This is one of the first initiatives that APAN will guide the industry to next issue of this journal). The de-stressing massage should be develop. So where do we begin? thorough and should take no less than 15 or 20 minutes.

What considerations will determine how to put such a package (Please note that, as this article is the first part of many series, we will together? First, let us define and analyse this sector of the community. only be covering an overview of the various elements of consideration

when customising a treatment package for the corporate client. In A corporate, business or professional person usually lives a life of high subsequent issues we will address in greater details specific protocols expectations, has to deal with mental pressures and quite frequently and techniques that can be used to offer something truly incredible for has to endure a demanding workplace where competitiveness, your corporate clients.)jealousies and office politics thrive and rule. Their job may demand that they be required to pursue large accounts, securing lucrative contracts and having to achieve demanding financial targets. They To address correct skin concerns you must commence with a very often have to attend early board meetings, business breakfasts or thorough skin analysis where you identify the skin type and condition, cocktail parties to establish networks and meet the necessary people look for deficiencies such as dehydration, sebaceous activity and that will help them reach their objectives and meet their goals. circulation, as well as all the considerations that are part of a thorough,

advanced skin analysis. If the client suffers from tension they could As a profile they are often highly ambitious individuals. They place exhibit overactive sweat glands that can make the skin appear oily, but high expectations on themselves and are constantly on the go to better on closer investigation it could be perspiration. These clients will themselves. They have to think clearly, speak articulately and in a often suffer from dehydration and an overactive nervous system.timely manner, look professional and stand out in a fiercely competitive business world as the person others can trust, respect and When we are under stress the sympathetic nervous system is be prepared to do business with. They are often highly driven, self- stimulated, putting our body into a fight and flight mode. What this motivated and work long hours without a second thought. means is that valuable blood is drawn from the largest organ in the

body — the skin and directed towards the muscles. Blood delivers As a rule, most of the work they do is indoors with very little fresh air oxygen and nutrients to the skin and therefore a highly stressed and lots of airconditioning. Alternatively, they may have to rush in individual could benefit from treatments that take into account these traffic to meet clients or to negotiate business in clients’ premises. To facts.get extra mileage they are often addicted to their own adrenalin, eat on the run and live off nervous energy. On a positive side they usually As a minimum you should include a thorough exfoliation procedure enjoy the challenge of their work and most likely get paid extremely using such products as enzyme peels, AHA peels or well. microdermabrasion.

The skin should then be supported with an appropriate vitamin or anti-oxidant in serum form that can be infused through galvanic currents,

Now that we have taken a look at this individual, do we have something LED light or electroporation to assist in the deeper penetration ofto offer them and how can we tailor something specifically for them? these nutrients. More importantly, how can we convince them to take us up on the offer that what we will provide them is not just a pleasant experience, but As thinking people often take longer to truly unwind you will probably important and of real value to them. find that they do best if they are allowed to experience a treatment that

is 75 minutes to 90 minutes in duration. This will allow them to move In reviewing the corporate client we must understand that they are high into a time of total relaxation.achievers, and high achievers are selective on how they spend their time and with whom they will spend it. Time is very valuable to them Your facial should then incorporate other techniques and treatment and they will only engage in activities that they consider positive and of protocols that would best suit your client’s needs.value to them and their purpose.

Your first consideration to address is the issue of stress and how this As this client must always look their very best, they need to be impacts them. So how can stress negatively affect them? Here are four reviewed on their grooming needs. Areas to review are:key considerations:

Their ability to think clearly and strategically Any facial hair removal

The impact that stress will have on their health Eyebrow shaping – this must be performed precisely (there are some great courses you can take to perfect the designer eyebrow The impact that stress will have on their appearancetechnique).The impact stress may have on their performance Eyebrow tinting and eyelash tinting

Therefore what you include in the Corporate/Business person’s Lash extensionsPackage should address these four areas. It should therefore include: Lash perming

DE-STRESSING

THE PROFILE AND NEEDS OF THE CORPORATE CLIENT

SKIN IMPROVEMENT

ELEMENTS TO CONSIDER IN PLANNING YOUR PACKAGE

GROOMING

For a more permanent or longer-lasting procedure cosmetic tattoo can Men can choose between a back or foot massage, or even a nail trim also be of great benefit to these clients. It can offer more balanced and buff.eyebrows that can be also given some length or lift if the need warrants it, eyeliner to keep the eyes always looking their best and lipliner with If you have spa facilities you can include spa therapies. Alternatively, blend to improve the shape and colour of the lips, even if their lipstick you could include a pedicure or a manicure, using essential oils such has faded. as peppermint, eucalyptus, tea tree oil or even lavender, which are all

great antiseptic and relaxing oils. Additionally you could include As you teach your client on the virtues of professional-strength magnesium salts or mineral salt for extra health benefits.skincare it is also advisable that you introduce them to a quality brand of mineral makeup and ensure that they have adequate sun protection. However, they must be taught on correct application methods and Now that you have worked everything out, image going to a quantities of use of both mineral makeup and sunscreens. businesswomen’s breakfast and you are mingling with a group of

women who exchange business cards and introduce themselves and share their professional orientation. There is a bank manager, a real

When addressing a corporate client it is important that you present a estate agent, a legal secretary and a finance broker. Then your turn package that is specifically designed and named for them. You could comes. What do you say and what can you offer these ladies?call it:

This is what you can say after you introduce your name. “I am an aesthetic practitioner. I specialise in skin therapy and use anti-ageing A treatment package designed to melt away stress, improve clarity and treatment and protocols to help people feel and look better. In fact we concentration, revive the skin to a more youthful appearance and have something designed just for you ladies – It is called sharpen your grooming so that you look immaculate and ready for

It’s a treatment business.package that is specifically designed to relieve stress, improve your concentration and help you look younger and perform better at your For the male client you will need to create a menu just for him:work. We even have Wednesday night as a Special Night open just for you. Would anyone like my business card?

A treatment package carefully designed to reduce stress levels, Do you think this would get their attention better than saying we offer improve concentration and clarity of thought, lift your moods and a skin improvement and pampering package? I think so.sharpen your looks, leaving you ready for action.

In the next issue of this journal we will address aspects of the The menu should be built to a time frame – 1hr 30mins, two hours or treatment menu in greater detail. In the meantime, consider ways that three hours. you can put your own personal touches to winning the corporate client.You could allow a certain level of flexibility for the client to choose

what they want. For example, for the women they could choose a foot They have the disposable income. They also need you to reach their massage instead of a back massage, a hand massage instead of facial peak performance. Who knows, you may even help them win that hair removal if they do not need it etc.contract they have been aiming for with greater ease.

MARKETING YOUR PACKAGE

THE NAME

The Professional/Businesswoman’s Secret Weapon Package

The Professional/Business Woman’s Secret Weapon.

The Professional/Businessman’s Top Achiever’s Package

APJ 24

ayurvedic skincare

APJ 26

Based on Ayurvedic principles, OmVeda products were the first of its kind to be launched in Australia. We trace their history and origin of their unique formulation through an interview we There are many medicinal herbs used in conducted with their formulator, Yasmin Sadiko. this Ayurvedic product. Far too many to include

here, but here is a small list: The skin benefits of Vetiver can be

attributed to its many properties, including anti- With a passion for the skin I wanted to inflammatory, antiseptic, nervine, sedative,

introduce these unique formulations to Australia tonic and vulnerary. Known in India as “Khus” and so in 1997 I launched the OmVeda Skincare or “Khus-Khus”, it is extensively used in the brand in Australia. The product was extensively perfume, food and beverages industries. The researched and trialled over a 10-year period botanical name of Vetiver is Vetiveria prior to its launch. Our team of experts included Zizanoides or Andropogon Muricatus. This Ayurvedic doctors, ethno-botanists and grass has a very pleasant and mild, earthy, musky Ayurvedic beauty specialists who helped to make smell, which has a cooling effect on the body and OmVeda skin, hair and body products. The brand the mind. currently enjoys an incredible reputation that A decongestant, anti-bacterial and stands for excellence across all levels. Its anti-inflammatory herb, Turmeric is known as authenticity and uniqueness provides excellent Haldi in India. Turmeric is also a very effective results and this is the very basis of its growth. tonic and a blood purifier. OmVeda comprises treatments and retail products available from Commonly known in Indai as Kesar. Since time immemorial leading spas and salons, both nationally and internationally. saffron has occupied a special place in the culture and tradition of

Indian people. This exotic herb is famous for its bright yellow colour and flavour and used in cooking. Saffron is valued globally for not only

OmVeda uses organically grown ingredients sourced from its culinary, but also its medical properties. Topically it is applied to various parts of India. Selection is based on optimal growth conditions improve the appearance of skin texture and conditions such as acne and for each plant, ensuring purity and potency. OmVeda supports and problematic skin. encourages several small organic farmers who till the soil, grow and An analysis of the Bael fruit shows it is harvest their crops according to tradition. The quality of their soil is far rich in minerals and vitamins, especially vitamin C. The ripe fruit is richer in minerals, vitamins and trace elements than that of most aromatic and astringent, which helps protect the skin against modern organic farms. Plants are handpicked at peak time and in the impurities. The bael tree is one of the most useful medicinal plants of right season to maximise the strength and healing properties of the India. All the parts of this tree, including stem, bark, root, leaves and ingredients. fruit at all stages of maturity, have medicinal properties and have been

used as traditional medicine for thousands of years. The fresh raw ingredients, that make up the Omveda line include commonly known as Manjishta is known as the concentrated extracts of herbs, flowers, leaves, roots, resins, wood, best blood-purifying herb in Ayurveda by aiding in the removal of bark, nuts and seeds, and freshly pressed oils such as almond, sesame toxins. It is astringent, diuretic, haemostatic and lithotriptic in action. and sunflower. The manufacture and preparation of ingredients follow Reddish pink in colour, its properties on the skin are tonic, antiseptic, strict Ayurvedic principles. All products are specifically formulated astringent, cooling and anti-bacterial.and tested for use with every skin condition.

With beauty care as its ultimate goal, OmVeda has created a range of luxurious and healing Signature Facials for outstanding results. We offer the therapist an enormous choice in treatments for

Absolutely, both can work together comfortably. The face, body and hair. Formulations are either prepared or mixed from OmVeda range can be used as an adjunct or to expand the existing specifically combined herbal powders. The formulations can be customer base, helping a cosmeceutical-based menu. OmVeda blended into fresh masks and intensified through the addition of products have several ingredients that assist with detoxifying and ingredients like yoghurt, milk, honey, water, eggs, vegetables or purifying the skin so that it will respond better to further treatments. seasonal fruits. The methods of treatment combine ancient Indian

rituals and techniques to provide a totally relaxing and rejuvenating experience for every client to discover. Treatments provide the full benefits of key ingredients.

The OmVeda massage oils are made to traditional Ayurvedic formulations to maximise the health benefits of the herbs used. Freshly ground herbs are infused through a special process and left overnight. for dry, dulling and/or mature skins.The oil is then thoroughly drained to remove any powdered particles, for hot and inflamed skin that needs and this process is then repeated for up to 21 days depending on the oil. cooling and hydration.To maximise the effectiveness of these healing oils in treatments, they is excellent for sagging should be warmed and applied generously to the skin and massaged in. skin, sun damage, dry and dull skin and to minimise the appearance of This has a twofold benefit – first, it helps to lighten the consistency of lines and wrinkles. the oil, and second, it enhances absorption of the oil and the specific A unique combination of herbal herbs. Each OmVeda massage oil has a retail accompaniment. It is powders blended with fresh yoghurt to detoxify and balance the very beneficial to encourage clients to use the oil regularly daily at condition of the skin. Suitable for all skin types.home for maximum benefit.

APJ 5: Name some of the key ingredients in the OmVeda range and state their benefits to the skin?Yasmin:

APJ 1. Who established OmVeda and when Vetivert: was in introduced to Australia? Yasmin:

Turmeric:

Saffron:

APJ 2: Where are your ingredients sourced? Yasmin:

Aegle Marmelos - Bael Fruit:

Rubia Cordifolia -

APJ 6: What are your specialised treatments?APJ 3: If a salon has an existing cosmeceutical range that they are Yasmin: happy with can they introduce OmVeda as a complementary range? Yasmin:

APJ 4: Your massage oils are very concentrated. How do they differ from other oils on the market and how should they be used? Yasmin:

Signature Facials include:24 Carat Gold Facial,The Omveda Pure Silver Facial

OmVeda Mango Thermo-Herbal Treatment

OmVeda Herbal Body Detox -

Traditional Formulations in a Modern Era

APJ 27

APJ 7: Why do your formulations not contain water? Yasmin:

APJ 8: What kind of preservatives do you use in the OmVeda formulations and what is their shelf life? Yasmin:

APJ 9: You have a very unique Rose Toner, tell us about the Rose extract you use? Yasmin:

APJ 10: Your products are very pure, how well are they positioned in today's price-conscious market?Yasmin:

APJ 11: What are some of the common questions you are asked by therapists about OmVeda?Product consistency and colour:

Do products contain preservatives?

What results can I expect?

Can they be used on men?

Can machinery be used with Omveda treatments?

Is OmVeda Australian manufactured?

For further information phone OmVeda on: 1300 662 383.

None of the OmVeda lotions or creams contain water. This means they are concentrates and can be massaged into the skin with wet hands or in conjunction with the OmVeda Saffron Oil. Being a traditional brand and using Ayurvedic methodology the base of creams and lotions is beeswax and pure cold pressed oils. Herbs are infused into the oil over a period of weeks to make the formulation more potent. This is then made into a cream or lotion.

As with herbal medicine the shelf life for OmVeda products are three years from date of manufacture. We use herbal powders in a base of oil and many of the Ayurvedic herbs such as neem, bael fruit, lemon and sandalwood have antibacterial properties so they do not need to use of additional preservatives. We recommend that the products be used within one year of purchase. This does not mean that the product renders itself useless, but rather that the ingredients progressively deteriorate over time and become less effective.

We use Rose water and powder from Rosa Centofolia – 100-leafed cabbage rose, which is a wonderful deep red and very fragrant rose. People often comment that the scent reminds them of their grandmother. This is because we use the traditional method of cultivation for this rose (not the hybrid methods). In this way we retain all its nutritive properties, while its wonderful aromatic properties are also enhanced.

Our products are extremely well priced. OmVeda sits mid-range in price, and the cost per treatment is very low. This is largely because we encourage salon and spa therapist to combine the products with fresh ingredients eg. one teaspoon of the OmVeda Skin Rejuvenator is made into a paste with one and half teaspoons of yoghurt. This means that the one teaspoon will double in volume. Any therapist conscious of their bottom line should truly not look further than OmVeda. Many of our facials are an average $10 per treatment, which is very hard to beat!

A plus or minus 5 per cent variance in consistency and colour can be expected from batch to batch. All colours within the product range are totally natural. The benefits of organic cultivation are reflected in the vibrant colour and aroma of our ingredients.

OmVeda products contain no mineral oils, petrochemicals, parabens, synthetic additives, preservatives or SLFs that interfere with the body’s own mechanisms for repair. There are no fillers in any product. Each and every ingredient is there for its medicinal properties in line with Ayurvedic philosophies.

Treatments and products are prescriptive, suitable for every skin type and for the holistic treatment of a wide range of conditions for outstanding results.

All treatments and products are suitable for both men and women of all ages. OmVeda is not gender discriminatory. Every aspect of skin, body and hair is covered in both retail and professional.

The use of machinery is not necessary in our facial and body treatments, however, their efficacy is not affected by the use of standard salon equipment, e.g. vapourzone, galvanic and high-frequency treatments. The OmVeda Gels (Silver and Gold) can be greatly enhanced when infused by using galvanic current.

No, as it is a traditional Ayurvedic range and Ayurveda is indigenous to India. The knowledge and quality of herbs to maintain efficacy and efficiency is best sourced from its place of origin. Soil and climatic conditions play an important role. However, OmVeda is 100% Australian owned and guarantees freshness of product and immediate supply.

health issues

APJ 28

Creating a salon ambience that is welcoming and will leave a positive instructions and dilute according to the manufacturer’s lasting impression on your clients is paramount to every salon’s recommendations.success. But as part of this objective, maintaining a healthy environment is also very important, not only for your clients’ benefit, but also for your staff’s health and productivity. However, most salons Our hands can be one of the worst offenders when it comes to bacteria focus on achieving a warm and nurturing atmosphere to “cocoon” their and viral transmissions. Within the Government Health Regulations in client in, and this does not always make it easy to ensure good every State there are clear guidelines on how to clean and sanitise your ventilation. hands effectively. Sadly, it is a well-established fact that many

therapists perform this activity hastily and inadequately. And if you A recent study published in the American Journal of Nursing thought you were the only one, a recent study indicated that over 70% confirmed that atmospheric bacterial contamination present in many of doctors do not wash their hands regularly. Using a nailbrush is also clinics has been assured and scientifically established. The level of important as bacteria can be harboured under the nails. This routine airborne pollution generated during many routine activities has should be performed before and after every treatment, as well as after confirmed that extra care must be taken to minimise this risk both for such activities such as handling money and other chores within the clients/patients as well as staff. salon.

In Australia each year, more than 8000 people develop lung cancer. According to international figures, among men only 10% of lung A further safeguard to transmitting bacteria is the importance of using cancers occur in non-smokers, compared with as much as 30% for gloves wherever possible. Gloves should be used during waxing women. Doctors are still probing this deadly gender gap, “but (particularly underarm and bikini waxing) as well as during pedicures hormones may play a role”, says Dr James Stevenson of the Cancer and any procedure such as extractions of impurities, cosmetic Institute of New Jersey. “There is some evidence that oestrogen is tattooing, electrolysis or other procedures where you may come in involved in the development of lung cancer in both smoking and non- contact with blood. A reputable supplier of cleaning and infection smoking women.” However, interestingly enough air pollution and control products is , manufacturers and workplace toxins were also identified as contributing risk factors. suppliers of a comprehensive range of cleaning products, gloves and

other ancillary items of use for a safer and healthier work environment. So what precautionary measures should be taken to ensure our working They can be con tac ted on 1300 557 557 or v i s i t environment is safe? Here are some recommendations: www.livingstone.com.au.

Maintain regular cleaning protocols by promptly emptying bins, Clients entering your salon will often unaware bring with them disinfecting bench tops, beds and floors should be routine. However, potential viruses, bacteria and infections. As most salons cannot be cleaning products and especially certain anti-bacterial products are ventilated through open windows there are other means of disinfecting highly toxic. Therefore as much as possible look out for the non-toxic airborne bacteria and viruses One of these is through the use of and eco-friendly options in cleaning products and ensure that you medical-grade essential oils. These can be burnt in your oil burner or dilute them to the recommended levels. Using anti-bacterial solutions diffused. offer a wonderful slimline device at high strengths can contribute to health hazards, so follow the that also incorporates negatively charged ionisation. It is an Air

HAND CLEANING

THE USE OF GLOVES

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How to minimise toxicity and control infections in the workplace

Purifier, Ioniser, Humidifier, Aroma Diffuser and Mini Night Lamp and operates for eight hours, after which time it switches off itself. You can contact the distributors, Essentials in-a-box, on 0433 536 669.

Research confirms that negatively charged ions effectively reduce microbial air pollution and even destroy infections, such as staphylococcus aureus. Negative ions purify the air by magnetically attracting to pollutants until these newly formed larger particles become too heavy to remain in the air you breathe. The negative ioniser continually produces negative ions, so even if one of these fallen particles is kicked up into the air, it is quickly removed again. These fallen particles are typically collected by your normal cleaning activities. The most important thing, though, is that they are taken out of the air, preventing you from inhaling them into your lungs, which is how they cause problems.

In situations where dust may carry micro-organisms, negative air ionisation can be economical to use to reduce infections. There are several studies that confirm this. One study confirmed that negative ions were economically and successfully used to reduce the incidence of Newcastle Disease Virus in poultry houses (Mitchell 1994). Poultry houses can be notoriously dusty.

salon/clinic rooms and bedrooms, or for relief in sick rooms. High-quality essential oils with proven anti-viral and anti-bacterial Respiratory Blend has a pleasant fresh aroma and can be diffused, used properties as mentioned above are an excellent investment to either in a vaporiser, oil burner or even used as a spray mist (check page 81 for burn in your salon or diffuse. An example of oils that contain high details). Used with a Diffuser it can offer dual benefits.therapeutic constituents are:

Eucalyptus Polybrachia, Eucalyptus Radiata, Tea Tree oil, Thyme One of the most effective ways of creating mood and ambience in a Rouge, Lemon, Peppermint, Pine, Clove, Origanum and Niaouli. If salon is through the use of candles. They are so atmospheric and the you are looking for a synergistic formula try gentle flicker of light can be so comforting and inviting. However, it is This synergistic blend was formulated by a important that you also become aware that burning candles can emit medical doctor who specialises in aromatherapy. It consists of the toxic and even carcinogenic fumes. For this reason we are seeing the highest-grade essential oils and offers excellent anti-viral and anti-introduction of soy candles as the healthier alternative. If you were not bacterial properties that can be used for preventative purposes in aware of how they differ here is a comparison:

ESSENTIAL OILS

CANDLES

Aromanexus Respiratory Blend.

APJ 29

PARAFFIN-BLEND CANDLES 100% SOY CANDLES

Exquisite Ambience

Paraffin wax is derived from petroleum Soy candles are totally vegetable-based

Burning paraffin wax emits harmful vapours They are 100% non-toxic

Burning paraffin wax emits black soot Soy Candles burn cleaner and are cooler

When spilt paraffin wax is extremely difficult to remove If spilt soy candles can clean easily with soap and water

Burning paraffin burns quickly and may produce carcinogens Last 70-80% longer and are healthier

Paraffin candles do not burn completely Soy candles burn completely

Paraffin wax must be blended with harmful chemicals to be able to Can utilise natural and essential oil fragrances and release them release fragrance faster and longer.

is a boutique company that uses only 100% pure For AromaNexus Essential Oils and Exquisite Ambience pure soy organic soy available in a selection of incredible aromas. The candles candles phone 07 55 930 360 or email info@kharis.com.are sold only through salons and spas and they can be private labelled so you can on-sell them as a retail item to your clients. They also produce eight-hour tea lights for burning within your essential oil burner for a totally healthier choice.

The best place to burn your soy candles is in the reception area or in the client resting room (if you are offering spa treatments) where their gentle aromas can be enjoyed, while your client is sipping a refreshing drink or herb tea.

With a few additional considerations you can ensure that your salon is not only pleasurable, but also offer a healthy, clean and eco-friendly environment, giving you, your staff and clients piece of mind.

APJ 30

Your New Industry Tool for PROFESSIONAL NETWORKING

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education & training

APJ 32

The process of Lifelong Learning

Terry Everitt is perhaps one of the most qualified experts in Australia to discuss the value and means of investing in your ongoing education. In this thought-provoking article he brings a collection of thoughts and a perspective on the factors that necessitates your continued learning and your educational developments, and the value of engaging in lifelong learning for the purpose of your survival and wider recognition.

Going beyond Product Training

professional development? Perhaps the simplistic answer to this is to first determine what is of real interest to you. What is it that really gets you excited or that which you wish you could do? This is the starting point on your quest for ongoing knowledge. The inclination and interest to explore a new thought culture will stimulate not only an adventurous spirit in you, but also lead you to a process that will expand your learning possibilities.

While I base the following in respect to the aesthetician or skincare practitioner, the concepts and thoughts of lifelong learning apply to every profession. As the ‘demarcation lines’ between aesthetics and allied health professions continue to blur, so you will find the need to extend your knowledge to the wider health and wellness fields that may be outside of your previous study or present expertise. However, extending your knowledge in this direction will broaden your scope of possibilities, and most definitely will be the natural progression and the direction you will need to take to accommodate the changes of progress.

So where do you begin? Start exploring from the point of knowledge you currently have, and expand your understanding of perhaps business strategies, or even retail application. Dive deeper into the sciences, learn more about biology, anatomy and physiology or nutrition – all these will provide you with a greater understanding of what you do to the skin and what adjustments you can make to improve your results. It may even help give you greater insight as to how your procedures actually affect the body. A greater understanding of the effects of your applications will provide you with a much more meaningful experience each time you touch the skin.

Knowing how the interconnection of what you are doing topically is having an effect within the skin layers and structures – how

your procedures affect the hormones or perhaps the nervous system, or the body as a whole, can give you a new perspective to how you deliver your treatments. Perhaps investigate different massage modalities and how these could be integrated into your practice, not only to provide additional value to your clients’ treatments, but also to improve your results and meet the demands of your clients’ increasing higher expectations. Maybe more information gained regarding psychology to better inform your dealings with clients or understanding of environmental issues, as the ‘greening’ of the industry has begun. Do The constant change in which we live and work in is not going to slow you know the carbon footprint of your business or even your individual down, if anything, it will only continue to increase in pace. It is also treatments? true that learning is a daily process, and this process is usually informal

and consists of a combination of seemingly random pieces of information that comes to us from various sources. This information helps us make sense of difficult situations and our reaction to them and Use education not only to add to the knowledge bank you possess, but possibly help us better understand them. also to integrate thinking into practice, while reinforcing forgotten or

unused knowledge. While manufacturers and supplies of the equipment you use have provided you with training on the use of the You cannot begin to try and know everything, so how do you identify equipment, this training is generally restricted to the correct use of the what is worth knowing in order to keep pace with your own needs for

The Anatomy of LearningThe Anatomy of Learningby Terry Everitt

APJ 33

Recognition of Prior Learning is the process where learning, no matter how gained, can be formally recognised. The beauty industry has the initial industry graduate training outlined in the nationally endorsed WRB04 Beauty Training Package. This provides seven qualifications at different levels, with the highest being a Diploma, consisting of 33 individual units of competency. This means that you could apply to a college that holds the status of a Registered Training Organisation (RTO) with the qualifications on their scope of registration. They can advise you on the application process to have what you already know mapped to the knowledge and skill requirements within the qualification. If you meet these requirements then you can be awarded the qualification via the recognition of the learning you have

gained; most of which may have been outside of a classroom situation. machine and the mechanical application of procedures through The qualification gained is nationally recognised and transportable prescribed steps. It will, however, be your responsibility to also seek throughout Australia. The benefit of this is that you can upgrade your, objective education on the type and nature of technology so that you perhaps, outdated qualifications to a new level of formally recognised can fully understand the physics that govern these applications. This qualification. This is particularly useful if you are an employee as education will allow you to be better equipped to devise treatments many Wage Awards in various States are now mapped against these based on sound scientific principles on how this technology will qualifications, which could translate to you receiving a pay increase. interact with the skin. Increasing your knowledge of the technology

you will be using will allow you to be able to critically analyse their Additionally, if you wish to pursue further education through a wider application through parameters that remain within safe and university, being able to present an updated formal qualification may effective practice protocols. be the necessary stepping stone to allow you entry to further education.

In response to the changing industry needs, the beauty training package The needs of the world we live in are increasingly more sophisticated is undergoing a continuous improvement process itself and a new with complex needs resulting from consumers wanting responsive, version will soon be published, and at time of writing the code for this individualised and accessible treatments in a creative and flexible training package will be SIB09 (replacing the present WRB04). This is service environment. The consumers’ appetite for higher-level results only one training package I have referred to; there are many others that is stimulated by the media, Internet and magazines that flag the virtues are aligned to what you do – perhaps consider the Health, Community of the various means of looking better and younger as now being the Services, Retail or Business, to name a few. mainstream norm.

To be (and to remain competitive) in this changing milieu, the There is also what is known as accredited courses that are also development of what has been termed a ‘Knowledge Economy’ must government recognised and sit outside of industry training packages; become the personal responsibility of each practitioner, where the some relevant examples are in IPL for Hair Reduction and in Skin individual must be a repository of knowledge (and skills) beyond what Rejuvenation, Courses in Safety and Clinical Applications using is required just for daily survival. While observable behaviour (as Intense Pulsed Light. Two examples of Advanced Diploma skill, aptitude and attitude) is important, more important is the qualifications available are the Advanced Diploma of Spa development of the knowledge to base reasoning behind the behaviour. (Management) and the Advanced Diploma of Health Science In other words, know the reasons why you do what you do.(Aesthetics).

Whatever you do must be constantly reviewed to accommodate the If university level is where your interest may lie, there are courses changes of progress. Your knowledge can no longer remain in a static available within the wider aesthetic fields. Maybe gaining the position. You must be more productive in an increasingly competitive Graduate Certificate in Management (Spa Operations) or perhaps the environment. This can be achieved in a number of ways, and perhaps Associate Degree in Dermal Therapies could be your next move. There the quickest is to be well-versed in multi-skilled learning. This is based is a Bachelor of Health Science (Dermal Therapies) and even a Master on the combination of the knowledge and skills of the individual that of Wellness (which includes a Graduate Certificate and Diploma empowers them to engage cognitive thought in how these multi levels qualification) degree levels available.of information and skills can come together for a more efficient

application and end result. In other words, learning as much as you can It may be that your work and life experience do not totally map to all the on different subjects and then using this collective knowledge to form a competencies required of the qualification; then a blend of recognition new direction of that which is now possible. is undertaken and some ‘gap’ training may be required where you attend class (or undertake the study by distance) to meet all requirements. As each individual case is different, you will need to gain It is one thing to be skilled, but it is another to have qualifications. The advice as to which qualification(s) is more appropriate, and the Australian Government has a broad initiative of Skills Recognition, Registered Training Organisation or university providing the course which acknowledges that people do have skills and knowledge that can can guide you with this. be mapped against formal learning outcomes and people should be

recognised for this ‘informal’ learning that has taken place.

The changing needs of the consumer

Undertaking further studies through Accredited Courses

Why should your skills be recognised with formal qualifications?

Ongoing lifelong learning constantly provides the linkage between what is known and what is not, by bringing knowledge from education distilled from various sources outside of the narrow confines of one sector of thought that can be adapted and formulated into new thought of how things can be accomplished.

Knowledge allows conceptual thinking in bringing thought to application through possible new ways of viewing what you are doing so that results can be improved upon.

With information changing so rapidly, any qualification is only as good as the currency of the knowledge gained on the date it was received. As information grows so the need for constant ongoing learning to better what you do and who you are for your clients, your industry, but more importantly for yourself.

You never know what tomorrow will bring – perhaps another day like today, yet what if something does change? What skills and knowledge do you have that are easily recognised that can support you in a new environment where perhaps you are unknown, that you could find yourself in, often through no fault of your own.

As you become aware of the benefit of this publication and the Advisory Network that it is attached to, use the Network to gain further knowledge and skills beyond what you may think of in isolation of what you do.

Elsewhere in this journal is news of the A5M conference, which is a wonderful way of gaining solid information from leaders in the field of wellness medicine. Although these are, in the main, medical professionals and while some of the information may go over your head, there will be more than enough that is understandable and can easily be used to build on your present knowledge. If total body wellness is an interest then this is a fantastic opportunity. If wellness is not your thing, then find something that is and research to identify and define what information may be gained that is of interest to you.

While manufacturer and supplier-based information is useful and important, realise the information is used selectively aligned to their own purpose, which may not be the whole truth and nothing but the truth. As much as possible go for generic, scientific-based information to supplement the information gained from other sources. Be very careful about information gained from the web. Useful as much of it is, there is a lot of misinformation propagated via this medium.

It matters not what your motivation is – perhaps it is to be a leader in your profession here in Australia, or indeed the actual world itself. Your motivation may be to better understand how your treatments affect the body, or how to increase your business knowledge for a greater market share or job security. Furthermore, perhaps the motivation is to be a better you. The important thing is to stay motivated in improving what you presently know.

I think the greatest gift to yourself is the knowledge that you need to know more than what you presently know, and then of course to do something about it. The pursuit of knowledge will lead you securely into your future, while adding greater energy and enjoyment to the journey of understanding.

Ensure your information comes from credible sources

Terry Everitt is known as a Master Aesthetician in Advanced Clinician Aesthetics both in Australia and internationally, while also being a leading educationalist in the development of quality assured learning. Terry is also a consultant in legislative compliance requirements within the vocational education and training environment.

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salon business

APJ 36

I was recently chatting to one of my suppliers and in an attempt to keep extensive training and re-skilling. Display certificates and include the them on their toes, I suggested that a change of product every couple of information in your newsletters and literature. years was a good thing for salons. It gives staff a whole array of new information, skills and a renewed retail interest. It also gets clients excited about something new to try both in salon treatments and at Continually offering new equipment in your salon shows your clients home. Now I am the first to admit that swapping brands isn’t really as that you are staying current and offering them the very latest in easy as all that, but it got me thinking that there is actually a lot of truth treatment options. Many of our clients are excited about the prospect of in what I said. The change can bring about renewed interest and something new to try. Launch new equipment with special offers and excitement that should result in additional sales activity. (The best part information events. And it’s not just equipment. New products can be was that the supplier actually offered me a better deal to stay loyal to just as exciting. Especially now that we have access to some fabulous them!) cosmeceutical brands that deliver results in the anti-ageing and anti-

oxidant fields. I believe that every salon needs to include a So I started to think about the sorts of changes that need to be cosmeceutical somewhere in their branding mix, especially when these considered by successful salon owners that will help maintain the brands are the ones getting all of the publicity. interest of both staff and clients while keeping the turnover high.

Basically, what we are doing is continually trying to raise the bar in terms of results to meet our clients’ expectations. It doesn’t take very

The first and most obvious is the continual upgrading of skills required long simply doing the same old treatments month after month before a by staff in successful salons. Today’s patron is more aware about what client gets bored with both the treatment and the result and may look is available in the world of beauty than ever before. There are television elsewhere for something more exciting. By introducing new elements shows, radio programs, numerous magazines and countless news into their treatment regime, both in salon treatments and home care, articles all devoted to the latest in beauty treatments, equipment and you maintain their enthusiasm in your salon and reinforce your role as ingredients. This means that all staff need to be continually training in their sole skincare solution provider. new products, equipment and techniques to stay ahead of the inquiries that consumers are demanding when they walk into our businesses. For Other changes can include undertaking additional postgraduate example, it was only a few years ago that there was a debate about courses that relate to the aesthetic industry. There are an extraordinary whether we should force staff to do Brazilian waxing. Now it is a core- number of courses available for therapists to extend their knowledge waxing element. Not so long ago, many salons didn’t utilise specific base to meet with the challenges and demands of industry salon software. Now I wouldn’t open a salon without it. A few years advancements and client expectations. These include: back microdermabrasion was the newest equipment on the market, Advanced skin analysis trainingnow nearly every salon has at least one machine along with an IPL and Qualifications in light-based therapiesLED light therapy. So if staff are upgrading their skills or qualifications Marketing Qualificationsit is important that you publish that your staff are undergoing such

Updating your services

Let it be known

Making Changes that will strengthen your Positionby Paul Carbis

APJ 67

Paul Carbis is considered one of the world’s most experienced and successful business coaches specialising in beauty salons and spas. He is a popular trainer at expos and conferences around the globe, a successful salon owner and Australia’s best-known consultant. Paul regularly tours the country visiting salons throughout Australia and offering easy to implement advice. If you would like to have Paul visit your business or purchase any of his business building CDs simply call on 0418 983 145 or email paulcarbis@bigpond.com

Manual Lymphatic Drainage

Bookkeeping

There are a number of university diplomas, degrees and also Masters Degree courses all in relevant spa and beauty fields available as face to face or distance learning. Even attending the various expos here in Australia or overseas and participating in their education programs will mean you return to your salon with newfound skills. A change to the way you sell retail or conduct a skin analysis, refined massage technique or product knowledge can result in a much better response by your clients. Consequently re-bookings, retail sales and up-selling all improve, putting dollars to the salon’s bottom line. Staff members gain new confidence and interest, which in turn should redeem better sales results. On the other hand your clients will also benefit from the newly acquired knowledge, better treatment selection and homecare products, which will equate to better loyalty and increased sales.

As I visit salons around the country I am amazed at how many salon owners are reluctant to undertake additional training themselves despite having qualified over 10 years ago. At the very least you should be looking to upgrade to the current diploma that will be available later this year. But what is worse is when salon owners don’t insist that their staff should be continuously learning new skills. Whether it is training within staff meetings and staff training sessions in the salon, training provided by representatives of suppliers in your salon, product knowledge training or postgraduate courses, every therapist in this country should be exposed to several courses every year.

In the UK therapists need to acquire a number of points from accredited training suppliers each year in order to maintain their registration. We are in one of the fastest changing and evolving industries on the planet and so many therapists are being left behind the advances in the industry by simply doing what they have always done. In a tough economic environment these salons are not going to attract new clients and will struggle to maintain their customer base as the public searches for the newest and the latest, as they are enticed by the results-driven publicity that they have been bombarded with by the media. Therefore keeping up with change makes good business sense.

It is not necessary to introduce a new brand, nor is it necessary to buy expensive equipment, however, successful salons are constantly committed to keeping their clients excited and interested with new and improved results-driven changes. Let your clients know of impending changes with the view that it will create excitement and anticipation. Let them know how well trained you are, or what advanced skills you have gained for their benefit. The aim is to make sure they know that your salon is up-to-date with new advances, constantly improving and offering the latest in order for them to experience better results. They feel more confident in a salon where staff are well trained, new and exciting things are continually happening and they are being offered the very best to assist them in looking years younger and achieving beautiful skin.

In today’s world, to stagnate and not change can be death to your business. Consider some business- improving changes for yourself, your staff and the benefit of your clients.

supplier profile

Achievement doesn’t happen without commitment, passion and In Australia I worked with Vogue Image Group since 1988 and finally dedication and these are the exact qualities that characterise Luca purchased the business in 2000. Since then we have seen many Mora, principal of Vogue Image Group, a supply company for the advances in the industry and having worked closely with many clinics aesthetic industry based in Marvern, Victoria, and the distributor of and salons I have witnessed some incredible results in what can be Skeyndor skincare and Sorisa high-tech equipment. achieved when quality skin products and equipment technology work

correctly together.Luca has a reputation second to none for working with some of the most advanced skincare and equipment technologies available on the global market. Her training can only be described as phenomenal as she teaches salons and clinics scientific protocols and procedures that deliver some of the highest levels of results this profession can boast It is critical that the therapist takes the necessary time to about. Always forward thinking, Luca regularly travels overseas conduct a thorough professional analysis of the skin and come to her seeking the most advanced and progressive technologies to introduce own conclusions. By all means we must ask the clients for their to Australia, ensuring that salons and clinics meet with international feedback as to what are their concerns, however, it is the therapist’s standards and can deliver to their clients the very best the world has to responsibility to determine what is happening on and in the skin. The offer. A quiet achiever, who is more satisfied with the success of others issue of the overall health and function of the skin must be considered than the recognition of her own contribution, Luca is a sincere, with particular emphasis on determining the dehydration levels of the gracious and incredibly generous individual who is helping lift the skin as the first and foremost consideration that must be addressed, as standards of this industry through the sharing of her knowledge and unless the skin is correctly hydrated, the treatments that follow may be her expectation of excellence. compromised. The Skeyndor Aquatherm range offers excellent

products that are mineral-rich and able to rebalance and optimise the We interviewed Luca to share with you both her roots and concepts on skin’s hydration levels. Once this issue is addressed we can focus on what is needed for this industry to continue to grow in reputation and other concerns such as wrinkles, texture and tone. recognition with consumers, while retaining its market share even through difficult economic times.

I originally trained in Hungary as an aesthetician, where the expectations from students who wanted to study in this profession were In recent years the availability of high-grade antioxidants that very high. The study requirements were rigorous and demanding and are formulated to include more efficient delivery systems means that there was a great deal of science units in the curriculum. This was we can now perform treatments that can offer our clients immediate because aestheticians in Hungary work closely with the medical and long-lasting results. New advancements in formulations now profession, and especially with dermatologists in the area of skin means that we have access to micronised and nano-technologies that treatments. allow better penetration of active ingredients into the skin and

therefore give a much better result than previously possible.

APJ 2. When analysing the skin, what is the most important consideration that needs to be addressed in order to achieve the best possible results in a facial treatment?LUCA:

APJ 3. Luca, you are respected in the industry for your depth of knowledge and your commitment to training and education. What

APJ 1. Luca, how did you start in this industry and what is your new developments have you experienced in the past five years that company's business focus? can help an aesthetician to achieve further breakthroughs in terms LUCA: of progressively higher levels of treatment results?

LUCA:

A PIONEER OF PROGRESS

APJ 38

20 to 100 per cent. Duty cycles less than 100 per cent are usually Nano-liposomes from plant stem cells are another exciting termed pulsed ultrasound, while a 100% duty cycle is referred to as breakthrough. SKEYNDOR’s ETERNAL line was the first to bring continuous ultrasound. For skincare, most machines are created at this technology to Australia. Swiss studies have identified the 1MHz with continuous and pulsed frequencies. In aesthetic care incredible regenerative capabilities of stem cells extracted from a ultrasonic sound waves stimulate body cells. The tiny massage it unique variety of apple known as the Uttwiler Spatlauber. The internal produces expands the space in which the cells exist, causing movement fluid of these plant cells contains components that help to protect and of cytoplasm, the rotation of mitochondria, and the vibration of the cell maintain the function of the human skin cells. It is believed that the nucleus stimulates and expands the cell membrane. This improves stem cells of this species of apple contain metabolites that are local blood and lymph circulation, and enhances product penetration responsible for the longevity of the fruit. These metabolites are now and skin tone. harnessed to also ensure longevity of the skin cells and defend them

against chronological ageing. The Skeyndor’s Eternal Line offers not Ultrasound units used in aesthetics improve cell metabolism and only retail products, but also a clinical-strength salon treatment range regeneration. SORISA manufactures a device call DERMASONIC with the recommendation of a course of four treatments delivered over using ultrasound and vacuum suction to address cellulite conditions. In a four-week period.this case the ultrasound can break down the fibrosis associated with cellulite, by fluidifying interstitial fluid that has become dense, which needs to be eliminated as this gel-like substance is full of toxins. Fibrosis occurs when this sticky fluid promotes the build-up of fat cells More and more we are seeing numerous studies that support under the skin. The mechanical action of the ultrasound targets the the credibility of light-based technologies and as a result we will cellulite nodules breaking them down and assisting in the elimination continue to see them dominating the market. As much as laser and IPL of toxins of the trapped interstitial fluids through the lymphatic system offer great results, they are quite invasive and require extensive and blood circulation. This treatment requires follow-up homecare training to ensure their safe application. On the other hand, the virtues products to support the results. of LED (Light Emitting Diodes) have come to the forefront, with

scientific research confirming their positive benefits in terms of cell To successfully treat cellulite stimulation and renewal. LED offers for long-term results we also light-based therapy that is non-ablative r e c o m m e n d t h e u s e o f and easier to use with less risk. SORISA’s PRESSOR03. This device LED technology offers pre-programmed addresses lymphatic drainage in treatments through an advanced head that a more comprehensive way for allows you to change light colours long-term results. These and automatically, for their different benefits, other protocols are used within without having to replace the heads for our training to deliver tangible each colour. Additionally, they have an and long-lasting results. excellent clear conductor mask to be

applied to the face under the LED light to One of the most phenomenal further enhance treatment results. breakthroughs in equipment technology that we have just During the past five years we have seen introduced into the Australian other technologies such as Electroporation m a r k e t i s t h e S O R I S A being introduced into the aesthetic SKINLIGHT — a multi-domain. Electroporation was first f u n c t i o n a l d e v i c e t h a t introduced in the 70s when a group of i n c o r p o r a t e s s e v e r a l dermatologists in the US discovered it by technologies, including a applying an intense electrical impulse for d i a m o n d t i p p e d a short time at an adequate wavelength. MICRODERMABRASION The consequence of this action was a using various size heads for change in polarisation of the cellular different applications, LED membrane that could be used to promote a l i g h t a n d E L E C T R O -kind of cellular “pulsation”. In fact, after PORATION. The LED light is the initial shock, the polarity it conveyed is enhanced by a special mask and immediate reversed and production of this procedure can be combined electrolysis is avoided. What this means is with Electroporation so that the that changes to the cells are temporary, just two technologies can work enough to allow treatment-strength

simultaneously together for further product penetration. This enables products to be introduced transdermally without the normal skin the skin to benefit from this synergistic combination of currents. The resistance, with the cells returning to their normal structure. In Skinlight also offers a LYMPHATIC DRAINAGE application for medicine, the advantage of the temporary activity is that it opens improved skin detoxification, as well as CRYOTHERAPY. intercellular channels through which substances can pass into the skin. Cryotherapy offers facial firming and lifting benefits and its This method was successfully used in the transdermal treatment of contracting action also further assists in pushing products into the melanomas. Having this technology available to us now in the deeper layers of the skin.aesthetic domain means that we can more effectively introduce

substances transepidermally into the skin. Combined in the Skinlight is also a unique feature, which is the SKIN TESTER. This enables the therapist to objectively measure the results Ultrasound is another proven technology. Ultrasound has been used for that have been achieved at the end of the treatment. These results can cosmetic purposes since the early 1980s. Ultrasonic sound waves are be documented by the therapist and also presented to the client to view at a frequency of more than 20,000HZ and are not heard by the human for themselves – all this through the one unit. How incredible is that? ear. Clinical ultrasound units being manufactured typically deliver

ultrasound frequencies of 1 and 3 Mhz, with duty cycles ranging from

APJ 4. What new equipment technologies have come into the market and what results do they promise? LUCA:

APJ 39

APJ 5. Can you explain to us and give us examples of how LUCA:products, technologies and techniques can work together to provide better and longer-lasting results? LUCA:

APJ 7. From your i n t e r a c t i o n w i t h numerous salons, what

APJ 6. Most therapists can provide some excellent results with skin areas of education do improvement, but what about firming of the features and muscle you believe are the toning? What technologies can offer benefits in strengthening weakest that needs to muscle tone and how important is this in minimising lines and be upgraded?wrinkles and in creating a more LUCA:youthful appearance?

Advances in equipment technology give aestheticians many options when it comes to tightening, toning and lifting slackened facial muscles. One of the latest is the Skeyndor Mesoscience Lift

As aestheticians we work very much with the physiology of Procedure (which is the no-needle Mesotherapy). This breakthrough the skin and body. We attempt to excite and stimulate cells both in the treatment also uses Electroporation and Cryotherapy delivering skin and in the muscles. If you are really looking for the kind of results microscopic quantities of potent and concentrated actives at a cellular that consumers now expect you cannot achieve this through a single- level, achieving significant and cumulative results that are visible from pronged approach. You must effectively determine what products to the first session.combine with what equipment. You then need to go one step further to consider how various equipment can offer you a variety of functions Another proven tool is the Sorisa Lifting C Automatic Face Lifting, that can further enhance the skin’s response to these treatments to which utilises microcurrents for skin and muscle stimulation, and the achieve a more youthful appearance. Belex 08. The Belex 08 also offers two extra functions – a gentle

passive contraction of muscles or a more intensive muscle contraction, Our products and equipment represent a new phase in protocols that much like a workout for the face. can be adapted to the baby boomers and beyond.

With the popularity of body firming (toning), one of the most effective machines is the Sorisa BODYTER. This device is highly popular in Japan where it is widely used for muscle toning. Men are taking advantage of this treatment since they work around the clock and do not have time to exercise. It offers excellent results in strengthening muscles without spending hours in the gym. This device incorporates seven different currents, including bi-polar interferential

currents , Russian Kotz , lipolitic currents and infra-

red currents etc. Sorisa Bodyter is TGA included as a therapeutic device.

There is a need for aestheticians to upgrade their knowledge of the skin so that they can take the correc t course of action following diagnosis. Wi th technology moving at such a rapid pace and an a b u n d a n c e o f

b r e a k t h r o u g h formulations available, a facial is no longer just a

Merging cutting edge technologies in both devices and topical products means that we can more efficiently address the multiple issues of serious skin and body care through a synergistic approach. Partnering the advances in technology from SORISA (equipment) with SKEYNDOR (skincare) means that we can offer very effective non-invasive treatments to dramatically improve the appearance of the skin. This collaborative approach of skincare and equipment means that clients can experience a number of technologies in a single session for results that are immediate and significant. As mentioned above, these include Plant Stem Cells, using active components of apple stem cells to help protect and maintain the function of human stem cells, and the new LED photomodulation therapy that uses multiple wavelengths to rejuvenate. Furthermore, Mesoscience where a hand-held device is used to deliver concentrated ingredients at a deeper level. All this can be achieved now in just one treatment.

APJ 40

matter of a soothing, relaxing treatment for ‘a blossom in the cheeks’. Aestheticians need to be able to investigate at a more scientific level and become familiar and comfortable to incorporate the latest in equipment and scientific products to achieve the new expected levels of results for their clients.

Here are some areas you should examine and focus on, to ensure you continue to survive and prosper:

Treasure your clients and give the gold standard service on a consistent basis. During difficult economic times they have to perceive you as progressing and growing in your knowledge so that you are offering a constantly improved level of results. This is not the time to stagnate in your knowledge as they will easily tire and your service will be the first to go.

Make your client feel as though she is the only person in the world, during each and every visit — no excuses.

Be the expert in your field. The more you know about new developments the easier it will be to deliver the best. To maintain excellence in what you do keep up with advancements in the industry and make the most of further training, workshops and seminars. This translates to delivering the best possible treatment to the client.

To ensure your clients stay with you, put yourself in their shoes. You can set your business apart from the competition by asking yourself ‘what are my expectations?’ A happy client means more happy clients.

The appearance of your business says a lot about you and your staff, so be scrupulous – treatment areas, towels, robes, stations, windows, retail shelves, floors,etc.

Always be ready to try something new. Market services that not only help clients look good and feel good, but that also help target stress.

Educate your clients on the value their treatments by maintaining their skin between visits through clinical-strength products you will recommend to them. At the same time discuss other issues that reflect in the skin such lifestyle, diet, fitness etc.

Target multiple generations from teens to baby boomers to seniors.

An economy that is in downturn does not mean that your clients will forgo their treatments, but it may be that they will look for more cost-effective options. Offer them added value by packaging a series of treatments as more cost-effective solutions.

Keep up the sampling of new products and reward clients who refer.

APJ 8. To survive in this economic climate what changes do you believe must happen for salons to maintain their credibility and to grow their client base?LUCA:

Luca Mora can be contacted at Vogue Image Group Ph: 03 9821 0033 or email: info@vogueimage.com.au

for further information on SKEYNDOR skincare or SORISA Equipment.

APJ 41

Luca Mora

APJ 42

Is it Cosmetic or Medical?

Aesthetic Medical Technologies

Medical Device Regulations

At the outset, it is important to understand the distinction between c o s m e t i c p r o c e d u r e s a n d therapeutic/medical procedures. Essentially, cosmetic procedures cover up or change the appearance without actually doing anything to the body/skin, whereas therapeutic/ medical procedures actually do something to the body. So, for example, changing the appearance of wrinkles by covering them up or filling the spaces between them is cosmetic, but actually doing something to change the wrinkles is medical. Anything that causes a change to body t issues such as pigmentat ion lightening, fat or wrinkle removal etc is a medical product and must have regulatory approval from the Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA). The TGA is Australia’s regulatory body for medical products in the same way that the FDA is for the USA. Other countries such as Canada, EU and Japan also have regulatory controls on medical products.

Technologies that are promoted for aesthetic improvement have only relatively recently been available for use in facilities that are not under the direct control of a medically qualified person. For example, there are a variety of light-energy modalities for ablative and non-ablative treatment of the skin surface (e.g., removal of pigmented lesions, acne, psoriasis, wrinkles, tattoos, hair). They include technologies such as fluorescent light generators, pulsed UVB light generators, intense pulsed light, long-pulsed Nd:YAG lasers, and Q-switched Nd:YAG lasers, together with dedicated applicators (hand-pieces) that are used to apply the different energies to the surface of the skin. Also there are systems that result in skin tightening by subdermal radiofrequency heating and new technologies are continually being introduced.

Anyone who imports into, or manufactures, medical devices for supply in Australia must seek approval to do so from the TGA (see w w w. t g a . g o v. a u ) . T h e T G A implements the Therapeutic Goods Act (1989) and its associated regulations. This legislation has provisions to prevent supply, recall products and pursue penalties for non-compliance.

Part of your obligation as a practitioner or supplier is to abide by regulatory

requirements when using or importing products into Australia. It is important

to understand that every country is different in terms of what is and what is not

permitted to be said about a product, be it skincare or equipment. Australia,

on the other hand, differs extensively from other countries in its requirements,

and so it is important to ensure that you comply with Australian regulatory

standards and not those set out by other countries.

Dr Derrick Beech is considered as Australia’s foremost authority in this area,

having created and directed medical device regulations at the Therapeutic

Goods Administration for over 10 years and for a period of time was also in

charge of the entire TGA. His article clarifies some important issues with

regards to what regulations govern Australia.

The Regulation of Aesthetic Products in Australia

The Regulation of Aesthetic Products in AustraliaThe Regulation of Aesthetic Products in Australiaby Dr Derrick R. Beech MSc, PhD, CChem, CSci, FRSC

regulations

APJ 43

The regulatory system radically changed in Oct 2002 into one that is harmonised with that of the EU and Canada. Before then, medical devices were subject to two levels of regulation – listed (straightforward process for most devices) and registered (a high level of regulation for a few high-risk devices). Now there is only one category of ‘included’ device and all must have been subjected to ‘conformity assessment’. What this means in practice is that for imported products, conformity to the regulations can be established by the provision of a CE mark from an EU Notified Body (organisations approved by the EU to provide regulatory approval (CE mark) for the EU). If the device does not have CE marking or is manufactured in Australia then the conformity assessment must be undertaken by TGA.

For an imported CE marked device there is an application process, which takes a few weeks and involves submission of the CE certificate to TGA with associated information and a relatively modest fee. Conformity assessment, on the other hand, can take many months and involve submission of substantial information and payment of substantial fees.

If you import or manufacture a medical device for supply in Australia then you must have your product on the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods (ARTG) via the TGA. The items on this Register can be found via the Internet at https://www.tgasime.health.gov.au/SIME/ARTG/ARTGPublicWeb.nsf?OpenDatabase.

Cosmetic skin products cannot make claims to, for example, calm irritation, fade pigmented areas, treat acne, stimulate collagen growth. Furthermore, products claiming to be primarily sunscreens must have TGA approval. There is no similar requirement overseas therefore it is virtually impossible to meet TGA’s requirements for

the patient may result in injury, as they may not have been properly imported sunscreens.checked to ensure that they operate safely.

Overseas, such as in the USA or EU, it is common for manufacturers of Importation of skin creams with banned ingredients or non-compliant skin creams to make wide-ranging therapeutic claims. In Australia, labelling/brochures may result in prosecution and/or a ban on such claims are much more vigorously and effectively policed by the importation.TGA and by the National Industrial Chemicals Notification and

Assessment Scheme (NICNAS).

If you are using or supplying products that actually do, or claim to do, NICNAS (see www.NICNAS.gov.au) is the regulator for cosmetics, something to change the anatomy or physiology of a person then it is a but TGA becomes involved if therapeutic claims are made.medical product and requires approval by the TGA.

It is also important to ensure that ingredients are not in the Standard If you would like to find out more about your particular product or have Uniform Schedule of Drugs and Poisons (SUSDP). For example, yours included in the Australian Register of Therapeutic Goods please hydroquinone and its derivatives are prescription only for dermal use, contact the author of this article on 02 9552 2229 or so this means that Arbutin, sometimes referred to a Bear Berry extract, dbeech@medicaltechnology.com.au.is not permitted in retail skin creams as it is a derivative of

hydroquinone. Arbutin is widely available overseas.

Dr Derrick R. Beech, MSc, PhD, CChem, CSci, FRSC, If you do not comply with the regulatory requirements for medical has been a consultant in products, you run a significant business and personal risk. The medical product regulatory primary reason for the TGA’s regulatory system is to ensure that affairs for over 10 years. He medical products supplied in Australia are safe and efficacious. Not created and directed medical only are you at risk of financial loss and legal penalties, but if any harm device regulation at the is caused to the patient then your insurance may be void if you are T h e r a p e u t i c G o o d s supplying the product illegally.Administration for over 10 years prior to becoming a If you purchase treatment equipment from a company within Australia consultant and was, for a it is important that you seek confirmation that it is included on the period of time, in charge of the ARTG by asking to see the ARTG inclusion certificate. If you import entire TGA. Please see directly from overseas or manufacture in Australia, the responsibility www.medicaltechnology.com.for regulatory approval with TGA lies with you.au for further details.

The regulations are in place to protect the consumer. The use of unapproved medical devices that are applying high-energy radiation to

Skin Creams

Summary

Risks

IPL Glasses now in stock

APJ 44

One 20-minute session on the Bio-Synthesis™ is equivalent to the three 20-minute sessions that many other similar equipment require to deliver effective results. Determining the effectiveness of a particular LED light therapy system is simple – but only if you know the right questions to ask. This is where your research starts and for this you now need some technical information. The effectiveness of a system is determined by the following factors and will dictate the treatment time and the number of treatments required per week:1. Number of LEDs in the treatment head (the greater the number the better)2. Total size of the treatment area covered at the same time in either mm or cm² (the greater the better)3. Whether or not the head rotates backwards and forwards or remains in a static position (if the head is not static then the LED light source is not constant, therefore increasing the amount of time it takes to achieve the critical 126j/cm²)4. Output intensity of the system in mW/cm² (the higher the output

Conditions within the Aesthetic Industry have never been more intensity the more powerful the system)

dynamic and the industry has seen tremendous change in the last five 5. Pulsing? Is the system able to pulse the light and utilise the latest

years or so. However, dynamics apart, the bottom line has not changed treatment protocols for maximum results?

as clients demand results. And, while they may be prepared to stick with a product, treatment or treatment regimen for a period of time to

A good equipment supplier will have answers to all of these questions. achieve results, they do so with the expectancy that you (the therapist)

The N.A.S.A. studies also show that the skin more readily absorbs and have fully researched the products and equipment that you are using,

utilises an LED light source if the light is sent in packets of photons (in promoting and recommending.

layman’s terms, ‘pulsed’ on and off) at specific intervals. In other words, the skin cell is much like the brain – it absorbs, utilises and

Your clients are relying on (and paying for) your expertise, experience retains things in ‘bite-ize chunks’. Studies also showed that only four

and knowledge, and they expect you to keep abreast of the times. It colours of the spectrum (red, yellow, green and blue) had any real,

would be no different if you were, say, a car mechanic or dentist. Like measurable beneficial effect on the human skin.

both these industries the aesthetics industry is continually bombarded with new technology, products and techniques, and it’s your job to do the research. So, where do you get your information? A good starting point would be a reputable supplier who is interested in educating you

offers a more complete coverage for a longer in the use of the products or equipment that they offer and not just

period of time. Treatment head sizes are around 218cm² interested in taking your money. Then, go to trade publications and

(dependent of course on the system) whereas, typically, the magazines, trade shows and seminars and industry associations.

treatment head size of a laser/IPL is around 2cm². stimulates the cell for a longer period of time –

Let’s be a bit more specific. As a major supplier of equipment to both typically anywhere from 10 minutes upwards depending on the

the overseas and Australian aesthetics and cosmetic industries, Body output intensity of the system — whereas with laser/IPL the cell is

Clinic (Australia) is heavily committed to supplying equipment and only stimulated for a fraction of a second.

proven technology that has been fully researched (ie. it actually works, offers completely hands-free operation,

does what it says it does and delivers results). In that way they can whereas laser/IPL rejuvenation treatments are highly labour

provide you, the therapist, with enough education and training to utilise intensive.

the technology to its full capabilities. You must demand the same from works to rebuild the skin, whereas laser/IPL

your suppliers as your client demands from you. After all you are the works through the principles of destroying to rebuild.

frontline.is non-thermal, non-ablative, non-invasive.

No infra-red or ultraviolet light is used and, unlike lasers/IPL, In our current portfolio of equipment the Bio-Synthesis™ Light

offers immediate results with virtually zero ‘post-treatment System best conveys and defines the appearance and attitude of today’s

problems’.beauty consumer — the therapist/aesthetician. Light therapy (using

light therapy systems staff can be fully trained and LED – Light Emitting Diodes) has been around for about four years in

operational in four hours. Whereas with laser/IPL training is far this industry. However, it is only since 2005 that the results of studies

more intensive and over a longer period of time, thus the system is conducted by N.A.S.A. have been published. These studies were in

not fully operational immediately (unless, of course, such training respect of light therapy and the effect on plants (in order to provide a

had been previously undertaken prior to delivery).sustainable source of food).. The study also looked at the acceleration of the healing process (where prolonged exposure to macro-gravity

And finally, no licence is required to use LED light therapy equipment, may otherwise retard healing in Space Stations).

neither does a laser safety officer need to be on the premises – because it’s not a laser! So, having read this you have already begun your

Bio-Therapeutic (manufacturers of the Bio-Synthesis™) have used the research into one aspect of modern aesthetic equipment – LED light

N.A.S.A. study results to produce a LED light therapy system that rejuvenation. The rest is up to you!

utilises state-of-the art technology and treatment protocols. The Bio-Synthesis™ takes 6.5 minutes to achieve the critical 126j/cm² per colour, per treatment required for LED light therapy to be effective.

So how does LED light therapy rejuvenation differ from that of IPL or Laser? Here is a brief comparison:

LED light therapy

LED light therapy

LED light therapy

LED light therapy

LED light therapy

With most LED

Article submitted by Paula Frewin of Body Clinic Australia. For further information phone 07 3822 6606.

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APJ 46

How often have we been in a social environment with friends and Clients are the number one requirement for any business to become family and heard someone complain about their dealings with a certain successful; as such, they are a resource to be looked after. Most business. They will go to lengths to point out what went wrong in the businesses will die or grow, depending on how well they manage this transaction, yet in almost all occasions they were not prepared to one issue. Most will spend time, effort and money to attract clients to discuss their complaint or air their frustration with the business their doors, but spend little time or effort in making sure that when they proprietor, therefore not allowing them to rectify the situation or have secured a client they also work on making them loyal to them.change for the better.

People do not buy on price alone and the products and services you My hope for you is to enable your client to become your ambassador have can be obtained from other sources, therefore it is vital that your and not your nemesis. clients perceive that they are looked after and that they are receiving

The Psychology of Positive Human ContactDeveloping the skills that build client loyalty

by Rod Jones

The Psychology of Positive Human ContactDeveloping the skills that build client loyalty

by Rod Jones

salon business

APJ 47

the best value for their money. We all know that it is far cheaper to keep inadequate answers. Never quickly judge a person. If you do not a client than to secure a new one, particularly in difficult times. understand where your customer is coming from, just ask more

questions.So what can we do to ensure that our clients will be prepared to not only continually use our business, but also most importantly, act as your greatest form of advertising and recommend us to other people? The People love to talk about their favourite subject THEMSELVES. So short answer to this question is to create an atmosphere that makes your when communicating with your client ask questions about what they client feel at peace in their dealings with you. have been doing since you last met. If in the past they have told you

about a certain event they were attending, show interest and ask them Think back on an enjoyable moment in your life. Can you remember how it went. Get you customer to speak to you about themselves as this all the finer points? Most likely you will not. However, you will will give you insight as to what they appreciate and what is important to remember how you and it is those emotions that will allow you to them. The more they reveal about their life to you the more they will relive that moment, regardless of the time that has expired since. In the trust you and consider your recommendations as well.same way a song can bring back memories and feelings of past moments in our lives and will allow us to relive the feelings of that Another area to consider is your body language when listening to them. experience and time. Your clients will reveal more to you if you guide them with simple

things such as nodding your head, smiling and maintaining where To create the atmosphere that can stimulate feelings and make a possible eye contact. This will indicate to them that you are involved customer feel good about their interaction with you requires a number with them and allow them to feel safe in communicating with you. of different elements to come together. Here are some steps to consider:

If a person reveals to you a high point about their life ask them how did they feel? As they share this with you it will allow them to relive the

Being prepared for the day doesn’t just mean our grooming, but also emotion of that event or moment. This will bring back the same our attitude. We have heard the saying “Attitude creates Altitude”. feelings they experienced at the time, and sharing these feelings with Never has this been more relevant than in the service industry. Clients you will lead your client to enjoying their experience with you.pick up attitudes, especially when you are working closely with them as you do as an aesthetician. These will either draw them closer to you Most of us in this modern world are time poor, and as a result we all get through trust or drive them away. annoyed when waiting for someone who is running late. We start to get

frustrated. So how do you deal with the issue if you are late with taking Being human, we all deal with people and issues on a daily basis that a client on time for their appointment? Resist the need to apologise. It could provoke us to experience negative feelings. These will cause us is better to thank your client for their patience and waiting rather than to either deal with them in a (where we let it be, and hope it say you’re sorry for the delay. In most instances the reason for the delay will sort itself) or (where we get angry and attack and is not your fault and by apologising the client sees the reason for the cause more problems to deal with). delay as

I have found that if we deal with our personal issues in an assertive When we apologise it makes the customer feel as if they have been manner, by explaining how we feel about what is happening and deprived, and as a result they will start to experience negative thoughts communicating what we would like to see happen, we can resolve and doubt your ability to meet their needs. Once a negative feeling is issues and stop worrying. Alternatively, if matters are left unresolved planted, even if our service has been good they may still be persuaded they could lead us to becoming self-absorbed and easily distracted. As to seek elsewhere for a more positive experience. a result, clients could register and interpret our attitudes as cold and indifferent to them. When you thank your client it is a form of praise, and as such, that

person starts to feel good about themselves. They believe that you see If we are consistent in pursuing a positive mood, the attitude we have them as a person of substance and as such their experience with you will help create the right atmosphere for our client to trust and have will be enhanced. All people want to be accepted and praise is the confidence in us. highest form of acceptance.

Most people are normally shy and conservative, so by initiating It takes lots of practice for a person to freely operate in the skills communication with your client two things will happen - you will find mentioned above. One way that I recommend to staff to become out information and you will develop a relationship. competent in these skills is to exercise some of these approaches daily

with their social circle, family and friends. Once you have these people The classic mistake when dealing with our customers is to skills, not only will it become easier to maintain client loyalty, but also what they need - this is the biggest mistake as no two persons are the your own life will become enriched and more meaningful.same. The way we get to know our client is to ask them questions. Questions can be personal, professional, open or closed.

Asking questions does not come easy and for most of us it takes a change of attitude. This is because often since we were a child the ability to ask questions have been beaten out of us, by either peer pressure, ridicule or time restraints. As a child all we did was ask questions and as a result we discovered our world.

So why ask questions and what do we want to achieve by this? The aim should be to discover who our client really is and what are their perceived needs. In other words what is important to them.

I have told my staff in the past that there are no dumb questions, only

Create positive feelings

felt

Self-Preparation

passive wayaggressively

being your fault.

Engaging the Client In Summary

assume

Rodney Jones has extensive experience in the banking and finance sector as well as a presenter in investment property seminars. He is a fully licensed real estate agent and also a partner in an interior lining business. Rodney has extensive experience in staff development and training, specialising in customer service and sales success. He has formulated successful training methods and delivered this training to a staff workforce of over 40 to achieve targets and build client loyalty.

APJ 48

means it starts from 1 July 2009 to 30 June 2010. If you have joined prior to this date the extra period will be given to you for free.

With APAN you determine what level of membership you join, depending on the level of support you believe will benefit you. Our research has confirmed that many within the industry are l o o k i n g f o r a m o r e comprehensive level of support and so we have introduced MENTORING se rv ices w i th in your membership, which are unique to our organisation. The number of sessions that your receive as part of your membership will vary from level to level and you decide the level that will best suit you.

To get the best out of your MENTORING this is what you are required to do:

Write your concerns on a pad. You may have one concern that you are seeking answers for, or you may have several. Write them all down prior to your mentoring session.

Phone or email APAN to book a time with a mentor that will suit both you and them. If you are sending an email and feel comfortable to itemise your questions in the email please do so. This will allow the mentor to come prepared with the answers you are looking for.

As an aesthetic practitioner, business owner or product supplier you Your MENTORING session will give you access to an expert on a can benefit from the support and expert advice of an industry advisory one-on-one basis for up to 30 minutes, so come prepared with pen and body when a difficult situation arises or when you are at a crossroad of pad to take notes and record the information you are seeking. how to address a concern. APAN is committed to providing a new level of personalised and diverse services to support your progress and The number of Mentoring sessions you are entitled to will development at every level. We are offering services that are vital to be identified in the various levels of membership. They are included as your success and unique to our organisation. part of your membership, so there are no extra costs. If the phone call

cost is a concern, we are happy to call you back on your land-line, so Membership is open all sectors of the aesthetic industry and you can you will not incur any phone charges.choose to join at the level of service that will best suit your needs. The annual joining fees start from $110 to $350 so it can meet every need The purpose of these Mentoring sessions is to give you the opportunity and budget, and membership is calculated on the financial year, which to discuss your needs and concerns with an industry representative for

HOW DOES MENTORING WORK?

1. IDENTIFY YOUR CONCERN –

2 . B O O K Y O U R APPOINTMENT –

3. COME PREPARED –

4. COSTS –

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APANACN 136 987 169 ABN 25 136 987 169

APJ 49

an objective expert opinion. We are here to help you identify options and solutions. However, for any financial or legal matters we recommend that you seek the advice of your accountant, solicitor or registered financial advisers prior to making any final decisions.

If you are not sure what areas we can assist you with please review this list below and see if any of these areas can be of benefit to you. The list below is only a brief outline of major categories:

Wages and employment agreements

Identifying quality suppliers of skincare and equipment

Staffing agreements and concerns

Client disputes

Professional and business ethics

Health Regulations

Educational direction and training options

Suppliers of marketing and stationery items

Services providers – insurance, merchant banking

APAN is currently negotiating strategic alliances with other organisations that will benefit its members. We want to bring new innovations to the industry that will support and strengthen the industry to continually advance in education and business strategies. Membership will also entitle you to very generous discounts for all conferences staged exclusively by APAN, as well as all products developed by APAN.

As a goodwill gesture to the industry we are pleased to announce that we have negotiated special rates for all who receive this launch issue

at special member prices, lots of marketing products, postcards and gift of the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS JOURNAL to attend the vouchers of the highest quality to help your business grow. AustralAsian Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference. This

event will be held in Melbourne on the 3-4 October 2009. A5M have generously accepted to offer a 10% discount to all our readers who have received this publication by quoting the special Code No. (see As an organisation APAN will negotiate pages 67 for further details). Discount Corporate Rates with various institutions on behalf of its

members. They will also carefully examine that the products and services they negotiate will offer the best quality at the lowest possible rates. We have negotiated some extremely good rates for our As of August 2009 we will be launching our E-Newsletter, which will

members with the Commonwealth Bank for Credit Card facilities and be emailed to our members on a regular basis. This newsletter will not Merchant Banking.only include news and information, but also a great deal of educational

tips that will allow you to polish up on your professional We have also approached several insurance communication with your clients. The objective is to constantly bring

companies to identify the best broad cover insurance facility at a to your attention information that will motivate you, refine your members’ discount price for our members and delivered with the best knowledge and build your professional confidence.possible service. All this information will be included in your membership kit when you join.

As a member you will also be able to access several resources on our As an APAN member you are not limited to website www.apanetwork.com. We plan to introduce live interviews of

only accessing support through mentoring sessions. You can phone an educational nature, and a members-only Chat Room where you can within working hours as often as you wish for a quick enquiry or a discuss different topics with other colleagues around Australia. A phone number. Our aim is to be known for excellence in service. Even moderator will strictly monitor this site to ensure that only quality if we do not have an answer to your concerns, we will make every effort information is presented. Only members will be allowed to leave to provide you with the information you requested as quickly as messages. possible.

APAN will also be developing a comprehensive range of As a member, we value your opinion, so please forward your merchandising items to provide you with quality products at members’ suggestions to us by email. These will help us to determine what the discount prices. We will also be including such things as Business industry needs so that we can help in a real and tangible way.Starter Packs (Letterheads, Compliment Slips and Appointment pads)

TOPICS WE CAN ASSIST YOU WITH

APAN CONFERENCES

OTHER MEMBERSHIP BENEFITSMERCHANT BANKING -

E-NEWSLETTER

INSURANCE –

WEBSITE

ON-GOING SUPPORT –

MERCHANDISINGRECOMMENDATIONS

The Value Benefits of APAN Membership &

ORGANISATIONAL STRUCTURE AND GOVERNANCE

PLATINUM MEMBERSHIPStructurally, APAN Will Be Governed As Follows:MANAGEMENT BOARD –

NATIONAL ADVISORY COUNCIL –

,

STATE ADVISORY REPRESENTATIVES – SILVER MEMBERSHIP

NETWORKING OPPORTUNITIES

BRONZE MEMBERSHIP

APAN MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONS

APAN GOLD MEMBERSHIP – FULL MEMBERSTUDENT MEMBERSHIP

To enjoy the benefits and support of APAN you are invited to join as a member. Visit www.apanetwork.com and download a MEMBERSHIP APPLICATION FORM or for further information phone 07 5593 0360 or email: info@apanetwork.com.

APAN will invest a great deal of time and resources to researching changes and needs within the industry. It will negotiate with Government and regulatory bodies and filter valuable information back to the industry. When necessary APAN will lobby for industry needs forming strong and credible alliances that will benefit the industry. As an organisation, APAN will demonstrate the value of networking by example, and show you ways of engaging others to support your growth and success.

This category is not purchased. If you are a Gold Member you are This board will determine operational invited to submit your qualifications for assessment and apply for an

procedures of the organisation and set goals and establish the upgrade to PLATINUM MEMBERSHIP for a once only development of initiatives for the benefit of the members. administration fee of $55.

This council will consist of This classification is limited to highly qualified practitioners. credible, highly skilled and qualified individuals from diverse areas of Diploma and above qualifications in aesthetics as well as specialised expertise who are leaders in their field. Their task will be to review the practitioners such as Cosmetic Tattooist, Laser and IPL Practitioners needs of the industry and put forward proposals, working models and and paramedical and medical aestheticians.recommendations to the Management Board for their consideration and implementation. Currently, we have some highly qualified people For this category (Platinum Members) you must have your from the educational sector, international business sector and qualifications reviewed and verified. Once approved you will be government who have accepted to be on this council. A full profile of required to abide by a Code of Ethics. This will allow us (with your the National Advisory Council members will be presented to you in our approval) to promote you to the public. You will also qualify for all next journal and in our newsletter in early August. the benefits of Gold Membership.

Each State will have a local APAN Representative who will be responsible for forwarding Entitles you to: valuable information about their State to Head Office. They will also Two mentoring sessions of up to 30 minutes per sessionbe responsible to make recommendations for valuable networking General enquiries unlimited e.g. requesting a phone number etc.opportunities to assist business and professional development in their

12 Months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS State. We are currently reviewing applicants for these positions. If

JOURNALyou would like to be considered for this position please contact us with

Registration to Members’ Only Website Network Centreyour intentions of interest so that we can send you a copy of our

E-NewsletterStatement Representative Agreement for your review and

Access to web-based business and professional development consideration.programs

10% discount on all merchandising

20% discount on all Conferences staged by APANOver the next few months APAN will explore new initiatives with the Membership fee: $198 per year.view of introducing networking opportunities to help members grow

their circle of influence and reach new markets. One such initiative is to help you gain strategies on how to attract and gain profession and

Entitles you to: business people as your clients ( see article “How to Win the Corporate 12 months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS Client” on pages 22-24). JOURNAL

To determine what membership classification will best suit you here Registration to Members’ Only are the different membership levels and what they offer: Access to web-based business and professional development

programs

10% discount on all merchandisingMembership fee $110 per year.

This membership entitles you to:Entitles you to:

Four mentoring sessions of up to 30 minutes per session12 months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS

General enquiries unlimited e.g. requesting a phone number etc. JOURNAL12 Months subscription to the AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS Registration to Members’ Only JOURNAL

Access to web-based business and professional development Registration to Members’ Only programsE-Newsletter with regular important information 10% discount on all merchandisingAccess to web-based business and professional development Membership fee $55 per year. programs Evidence that you are an active student must be provided.10% discount on all merchandising

50% discount on all Conferences staged by APAN

Access to Members Only Exclusive SpecialsMembership fee: $295 per year.

Website Network Centre

Website Network Centre

Website Network Centre

As an organisation APAN will demonstrate the value of networking by example, and show you ways of engaging others to support your growth and success.

APJ 50

APJ 52

For any business to survive during difficult times there needs to be a finetuning and tightening of expenses, staff Cosmetic Tattooing offers incredible job satisfaction to efficiency and a review that overhead costs are justifiable. the practitioner and of course excellent revenue-making However, cost-cutting measures should not be the only opportunities, while helping to improve your client’s issue for consideration. More importantly, introducing appearance and secure their loyalty. If you are a salon procedures that will increase the revenue to the business is owner and would like to introduce this service, but do not the more positive approach. wish to train yourself, you can pay for a staff member to

do so and secure a contract with them that necessitates Reviewing the availability of services provided to the that they deliver a minimum number of treatments to the consumer and determining the options of adding new business. Should they leave prior to this then they will ones that could possibly bring in new clients, or extend the need to reimburse you for their training. We can assist you service menu offered to existing clients, should be a key with this as well if you would like our recommendations consideration. One such option is providing the services on how to set this up.of Cosmetic Tattooing.

In recent years we have seen a boom in consumer demand Cosmetic tattooing also offers excellent opportunity for for cosmetic tattooing as a means of enhancing their upselling this service to your clients. If they have had a lip appearance. Here are some of the benefits of these treatment, but you identify that they could also benefit procedures and how they can provide solutions for your from their eyebrows being tattooed you could clients: recommend this to them as a further service. The

As we age we will experience drooping possibilities are endless for upselling. of the muscles. However, this does not usually happen symmetrically. For example, the left upper lip may drop more than the right lip due to muscle ptosis. If you perform one procedure a week in cosmetic This can make the lips look thinner and crooked. With tattooing you can expect to gain between $30,000 to cosmetic tattooing we can correct this through a $42,000 per year in income with a modest investment. carefully designed lipline procedure that can bring Imagine how much work and financial outlay is required balance back to the lips making them look more to gain this level of income, for instance through product youthful. sales? By adding this one service to your salon menu you

The virtues of needling to stimulate could significantly increase your revenue and make this collagen density and minimising the appearance of year an even more successful one. wrinkles, are now validated. A lipline and a blend performed through cosmetic tattooing will not only improve the appearance of the lips through the outline As the principal of the Australian Institute of Permanent and colour enhancement, but can also assist in Makeup I am both passionate about training standards and strengthening collagen integrity through the about excellence in the procedure. With over 20 years application process of needling. For even fuller lip experience in cosmetic tattooing I am constantly updating enhancement, a full lip colour can offer even better my own education and developing new techniques that results. are characteristic of my own signature training style,

A well-shaped eyebrow can take years off which I freely pass on to my students. ones appearance. This is why we are seeing Designer Eyebrows as a technique enjoying such great popularity. Once again, eyebrows can lose their symmetry, leading to one being higher than the other. Therefore the Also, hair density diminishes with age, as does colour training we offer at AIPM is one-on-one to ensure that of hair, which can fade. With the new hairline students master the technique to competency levels and technique we can dramatically improve the eyebrows more importantly, can continue to deliver the service with through density, length and arching to create a more confidence. When you train with AIPM you can be youthful appearance with a “lifting” effect to the eyes assured that I will personally deliver your full training.and features. Furthermore, with the hairstroke technique this can now be achieved and still look We have numerous testimonials from past and current totally natural. students that vouch for the level of excellence they have

With the progression of age so eyesight gained from their training and the ongoing support that we may also diminish, not to mention that the skin around offer to each and every graduate. Here is just one example:the eyes becomes looser. All these factors can make it more difficult to apply eyeliner with the level of “I chose to train in Cosmetic Tattooing with Faye Rielly precision that was previously possible. This can make because I felt she was well rounded as a trainer and a the face look tired and the eyes lifeless. Cosmetic person. She loves her profession with passion and holds tattoo can solve this problem through the eyeliner nothing back when teaching you both the artistry and technique. You can tattoo the top liner or the bottom protocols of this modality. Her incredible personality and liner, or both if your client wishes. This procedure is enthusiasm wore off on me. She is a true mentor who always received with great enthusiasm as it can gives everything to her students, ensuring they gain the greatly enhance one’s appearance, not to mention that very best from their training and become true experts in they can wake up and not feel totally bland-looking their profession. The one-on-one training allowed the without a touch of colour. New Cosmetic Tattooing learning to be paced correctly and tailored to my techniques for eyeliner application can allow you to individual needs and level of comprehension. I really create some incredible finishes using a variety of don’t believe that this modality can be taught in any other colours that can be subtle, but create an amazing way. It is such a specialised and detailed procedure and it finish. truly requires the undivided attention of your trainer at all

times to ensure that you gain the maximum from your Apart from the standards makeup procedures there are training.” numerous other more advanced para-medical procedures such as nipple areola repigmentation for clients who have undergone mastectomy, scar attenuation for burns victims as well as needling for softening of lines.

A new career

Upselling

Symmetry –

Potential income

Lip fullness –

Personalised Training

Eyebrows – Cosmetic tattooing relies very much on mastering artistry and precision in its techniques and I am a strong believer that this can not be taught in a group environment, as every person’s capabilities are different.

Eyeliner –

KATE SELLWOOD, Advanced Body Image, Darwin, NT.

Advancing your Skills – Increasing your Incomeby Faye Rielly

If you believe we can help you in training as a Cosmetic Tattooists or to update your skills please phone: AIPM on 07 5530 5411or email abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com.

Lipline Before

Lipline After

Eyebrow Before

Eyebrow After

Eyeliner Before

Eyeliner After

Certificate courses in

One-On-One Training

Faye Rielly — Principal

Phone: (07) 5530 5411 Fax: (07) 5530 7411Email: abeautyconcepts@bigpond.com Web: www.farren.com.au

P.O. Box 1606 Mudgeeraba 4213

(For Outstanding Graduates)

LEADING THE WAY IN COSMETIC TATTOO EDUCATIONLEADING THE WAY IN COSMETIC TATTOO EDUCATION

Eyebrows

Eyeliner Extension

Upper & Lower Eyeliners

Eyelash Enhancement

Full Lip

Lip-line & Lip-blend

Beauty spot & Blush

Advanced Paramedical

Scar camouflage

Vitiligo Re-pigmentation

Nipple Areola Creation

Nipple Areola Re-pigmentation

Correction colouration

Electronic colour removal

Feature reconstruction

Hair imitation

Scar relaxation

Multitrepannic collagen actuation

Non-Laser Tattoo Removal (Face & Body)

Training Mapped to WRB31A and above

Sole Authorised Australasian Mei-cha Educator & DistributorMEI-CHA: A WORLD PIONEER IN COSMETIC TATTOO INNOVATIONS & SAFETY

APJ 54

The virtues of magnesium for health and wellness are well known. However, what can this mineral offer the skin and what is its role in

molecules that stimulate every chemical reaction in the body. anti-ageing? In this article we present some recent findings.Magnesium is required to make hundreds of these enzymes work. Of the 325 magnesium-dependent enzymes, the most important reaction involves the creation of energy by activating adenosine triphosphate Magnesium is the fourth most abundant mineral in the body and is (ATP), the fundamental energy storage molecule of the body. Thus essential for life. It is the single most important mineral for fatigue is often reduced with magnesium supplementation for the maintaining proper electrical balance, facilitating smooth cell many enzyme systems that require magnesium to help restore normal metabolism and stabilising membranes. Only 1 per cent of magnesium energy levels. There is therefore an increased interest in the role of is found in blood, but the body works very hard to keep blood levels of magnesium in preventing and managing disorders such as magnesium constant.hypertension, cardiovascular disease and diabetes. In terms of absorption, dietary magnesium is absorbed in the small intestines and According to Dr Carloyn Dean, author of The Miracle of Magnesium, is excreted through the kidneys.magnesium is very important in health and medicine. It is extremely important specifically for the metabolism of calcium, potassium,

phosphorus, zinc, copper, iron, sodium, lead, cadmium, hydrochloric New investigations have identified that magnesium applied topically acid (HCl), acetylcholine and nitric oxide (NO). It is also important for can also benefit the skin, and so we will increasingly see it becoming a the metabolism of many enzymes, for the intracellular homeostasis and popular ingredient in skincare. According to Dr Zein Obagi, for activation of thiamine and therefore, for a very wide gamut of formulator of ZO Skin Health, magnesium it is also essential in critical body functions.slowing down the ageing process in the skin and is present in hundreds of key biochemical processes in the human body. It also improves Magnesium is a particularly crucial element for mediating the vital blood circulation and stimulates the skin to ensure that healthy functions of the nervous and endocrine systems: It helps maintain elasticity is maintained and moisture levels remain normal. normal muscle and nerve functions, keeps heart rhythm steady,

supports a healthy immune system and keeps bones strong. Magnesium also helps regulate blood sugar levels, promotes normal blood pressure, and it is also known to be involved in energy

Magnesium salts, the prevalent minerals in Dead Sea water, are known metabolism and protein synthesis. If magnesium levels are low the to benefit inflammatory skin diseases. A study conducted by the nerves loose control over muscle activity, respiration and mental Department of Dermatology, University of Kiel, in Germany, processes. Nervous fatigue, tics and twitches, tremors, irritability, examined the efficacy of bathing atopic subjects in a salt rich in hypersensitivity, muscle spasms, restlessness, anxiety, confusion, magnesium chloride from deep layers of the Dead Sea. disorientation and irregular heartbeat all respond to increased

magnesium intake.Volunteers with atopic dry skin submerged one forearm for 15 minutes in a bath solution containing 5 per cent Dead Sea salt. The second arm In the nucleus, more than half the magnesium is closely associated with was submerged in tap water as control. Before the study and at weeks nucleic acids and mononucleotides. It is also necessary for the physical 1-6, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin hydration, skin integrity of the double helix of DNA, which carries genetic roughness and skin redness were determined. The study found one information and the code for specific proteins. Enzymes are protein

What is Magnesium and why is it so important?

Magnesium and the Skin

Test results confirm skin benefits of bathing in a magnesium-rich Dead Sea salt solution

The Nutritional Benefits of Magnesium for the Skin and Bodyby Tina Viney

nutrition

APJ 55

subgroup with a normal and one subgroup with an elevated TEWL before the study. Bathing in the Dead Sea salt solution significantly improved skin barrier function compared with the tap water-treated Although much debate continues about the virtues and vices of the control forearm in the subgroup with elevated basal TEWL. Skin recent government initiative to add fluoride to water, evidence points to hydration was enhanced on the forearm treated with the Dead Sea salt the fact that it will interfere with the effectiveness of certain minerals, in each group, which confirmed that the treatment moisturised the skin. one of these being magnesium. Skin roughness and redness, as markers for inflammation, were significantly reduced after bathing in the salt solution. This Fluoride ions clearly interfere with the biological activity of demonstrates that bathing in the salt solution was well tolerated, magnesium ions. In general, fluoride-magnesium interactions decrease improved skin barrier function, enhanced stratum corneum hydration, enzymatic activity. Medical science has discovered how sensitive the and reduced skin roughness and inflammation. The study confirmed insulin receptor sites are to chemical poisoning. Metals such as that the beneficial effects of bathing in the Dead Sea salt solution were cadmium, mercury, arsenic, lead, fluoride and possibly aluminium related to the high magnesium content. Magnesium salts are known to may play a role in the actual destruction of beta cells through bind water, influence epidermal proliferation and differentiation, and stimulating an auto-immune reaction to them after they have bonded to enhance permeability barrier repair. these cells in the pancreas.

Magnesium is an antagonist to fluoride. If magnesium is in short Eating a variety of whole grains, legumes and vegetables (especially supply, the fluoride will bind with the small amount of magnesium dark-green, leafy vegetables) every day will help provide there is and cause it to be excreted in the urine. The fluoride will then recommended intakes of magnesium and maintain normal storage occupy sites in the bones that the magnesium should be occupying. It is levels of this mineral. Increasing dietary intake of magnesium can therefore vital to make sure your body has ample supply of magnesium often restore mildly depleted magnesium levels. However, increasing to counteract the toxic effects of fluoride and other toxins that may dietary intake of magnesium may not be enough to restore very low inadvertently be ingested from food, water or pharmaceuticals. Dr Paul magnesium levels to normal. Connett Professor of Chemistry at St Lawrence University in Canton,

New York, USA has conducted extensive research on the hazards of When blood levels of magnesium are very low, intravenous (i.e. by IV) fluoride in water and advises drinking filtered water and beverages magnesium replacement is usually recommended. Magnesium tablets without fluoride (www.fluoridealert.org). Fluoride inhibits enzyme also may be prescribed, although some forms can cause diarrhoea. It is activity, whereas magnesium supports enzyme activity. important to have the cause, severity, and consequences of low blood levels of magnesium evaluated by a physician, who can recommend the best way to restore magnesium levels to normal. Because people Elektra Magnesium mineral bath salt (magnesium chloride with kidney disease may not be able to excrete excess amounts of hexahydrate mgCl2.6h20) has a neutral pH of 7.0 in solution and will magnesium, they should not take magnesium supplements unless counteract acidity. They are now available for salon/spas and clinics prescribed by a physician. for profession use and for retail sales. Elektra Magnesium is naturally

harvested by evaporation from seawater, which comes from an isolated lake 3,200m above sea level in the Tibetan Plateau. Independent

New research suggests that one of the best ways for the body to benefit laboratory testing has found no mercury and no lead.from magnesium is to receive it transdermally. Magnesium supplementation transdermally (through the skin) is gentle and The flakes can be dissolved in water to make Magnesium Oil (between effective. It doesn't irritate the bowel as may be possible with oral 35% to 70% solution). Just mix 35 to 70 grams of flakes with 100ml ingestion. Magnesium is consumed by the body daily – in higher water. Strength depends on skin sensitivity. Very sensitive skins may quantities when you are under stress (emotional or physical), so need more dilution. Magnesium oil is not a true oil, but has an 'oily' or improving absorption through transdermal means is one effective way slippery texture when magnesium chloride flakes are dissolved in of supplementing deficiencies. water in high concentration. dissolve in water to make:

Bath (suggested about 1 cup per average bath)According to Dr Mark Sircus, author of Transdermal Magnesium Foot Soak (suggested heaped tablespoon per bucket)Therapy, magnesium chloride is one of the most potent minerals that Body Spray (suggested heaped teaspoon per 350ml)exists and is incredibly fast acting and safe. This form of magnesium is Mouthwash (suggested heaped teaspoon per 350ml)readily recognised and assimilated by the human metabolic system, as Compress for Sprains and Swelling it is the same form contained in seawater.

Dr Daniel Reid author of The Tao of Detox also supports the claim that Dissolve 75g magnesium chloride hexahydrate flakes in 100ml pure magnesium chloride used transdermally is a quick and easy way to water and gradually pour into 400g natural moisturiser body butter correct chronic degenerative conditions caused by magnesium (with no artificial chemical additives) while beating/stirring until fully deficiency. Reid further states that the problem with oral magnesium is blended. Elektra Magnesium recommends that you use pure water to that all magnesium compounds are potentially laxative. There is good dissolve Elektra Magnesium for mouthwash, body spray, moisturiser evidence that magnesium absorption depends upon the mineral and compress. If your bath water is fluoridated and unfiltered then add remaining in the intestine at least 12 hours. a little extra magnesium salts. For therapeutic use, higher

concentrations may be required. Please refer to your health Transdermal magnesium application delivers high levels of practitioner. See page 74 for details on Elektra Magnesium.magnesium directly through the skin to the cellular level, bypassing processing by the liver as well as common intestinal and kidney Reference: ATSDR (1993). Toxicological Profile for Fluorides, Hydrogen

Fluoride, and Fluorine (F). U.S. Department of Health and Human Service. symptoms. With the transdermal approach the body will not ‘overdose’ ATSDR/TP-91/17.itself. When it has enough in a magnesium bath it simply stops The Official Anti-Ageing Revolution, Klatz and Goldmanabsorbing more. All other methods of supplementation involve Elektra Life Pty Ltdeducated guesses.Dr. Carloyn Dean, The Miracle of MagnesiumDr Mark Sircus, Transdermal Magnesium Therapy

The toxic effect of fluoride ions plays a key role in acute magnesium deficiency

What is the best way to get extra magnesium?

Electra Magnesium Mineral Salt

Transdermal Magnesium Chloride absorption

Moisturiser Blend

APJ 56

without apparent in-depth consideration of the possible negative consequences of limiting sun exposure to the degree that was suggested. The numbers of melanomas and other skin cancers are ironically still rising today, in spite of an anti-tan culture and very widespread use of predominantly UVB-absorbing sunscreens. Most of these sunscreens carry the now well-known SPF ratings and people proudly use these while they go out to enjoy sunny weather. The campaigns to reduce the incidence of skin cancer have not been successful and the really troubling part is that no one seems to be able or willing to explain why they have failed. The anti-tan culture has been a positive development, but the use of ill-conceived sunscreens has not.

Perhaps looking at some basic available facts will help shed light on where the current approaches have failed and this is exactly where the role of vitamins come in.

It is a known fact that Vitamin A induces transcription of protective proteins in a cancer suppressing gene called p53. The name of this gene is not important here, but we know that vitamin D may well have a similar action over and above other specific effects that inhibit the growth of a variety of cancers. Vitamin D helps to cause the programmed death of cancer cells directly and this includes the cells of non-melanoma skin cancers. Suppressor genes prevent so called oncogenes or cancer-causing genes from becoming active and promoting cancer formation. Both these vitamins stimulate healthy cells

to specialise to their best potential, which is the exact opposite Vitamin D as we know is a close cousin of vitamin A. It is also fat-behaviour found in cells undergoing cancerous changes. Vitamin D soluble, has receptors on the cell nucleus and even shares one of the bolsters the immune system against infections like influenza and vitamin A receptors, but somehow in the past couple of decades pneumonia and has many other direct and indirect positive functions in everyone seems to have forgotten about this vital molecule. We have the human immune system. probably done actual damage through very well meaning, but A little simple logic then suggests that if people lack sufficient excessive preventative sun-exposure measures to curb skin ageing quantities of vitamins A and D, the risk of oncogenes becoming active and damage. and causing cancer will increase. Additionally, the fact that UVA light is not sufficiently screened out by most commercially available A lot of good research is now suggesting that just like vitamin A, protective lotions (even those with high SPF rating), and it becomes vitamin D is a vital link in the body's innate ability to prevent cancers obvious that the damage caused by excess free radicals and UVA light from starting up. It is actually a little frightening to realise that lack of will lead to an increase in skin cancers. vitamin D may have a hand in the higher incidences of all kinds of cancer like breast cancer, pancreatic cancer, bowel cancer and even To make matters worse, the SPF rating on sunscreens refers to skin cancer. Many people know that vitamin D is important for bones ultraviolet B screening only. Ultraviolet B is the very light spectrum and teeth and may cause severe deformities in children suffering from a required to make activated vitamin D3. In another ironic twist of the condition called rickets, but few seem to realise that it is such an situation, burning of the skin is the only real warning we get when we important molecule in the general health of people. have had too much sun exposure. The high SPF UVB screens thus leaving us without an important warning sign of over-exposure.The important question of course is why this new and potentially catastrophic situation has come about? The answer is that in our strong Adding the positive and negative factors mentioned above together drive to promote skin health, health care professionals and beauty makes it clear that there should be an urgent need to reconsider the therapists alike have turned into "Sun Nazis". Over the past 20 years or approach the world has developed to deal sensibly with sun exposure.so there has been a concerted effort internationally to curb the incidence of skin cancers and in particular malignant melanoma

SUPPRESSING CANCER-CAUSING GENES

ingredients

Vitamin DVitamin DDr. Ernst Richard Eiselen Dr. Ernst Richard Eiselen

– the Cinderella of Vitamins– the Cinderella of Vitamins

APJ 57

MAINTAINING A BALANCE

A SENSIBLE SOLUTION

Dr Ernst Richard Eiselen, MBChB, is the Medical Adviser to Environ® Skin Care since 2003 and the Medical Director of the revolutionary wound care device -

®Cerdak . During his 22 years in active medical practice, Dr Eiselen has gained a general perspective on clinical medicine both First and Third World. He has developed special skills and novel approaches to medicine, in particular Restorative Dermatology, Skin Cancer, Revolutionary New Wound Care, Preventative Medicine and Clinical P h o t o g r a p h y i n P r a c t i c e f o r Dermatological Diagnoses.

Dr Eiselen is highly regarded for his keen interest and involvement in restorative dermatology through enhanced tissue differentiation by retinoid and antioxidant topical applications. Key to these theories is his philosophy that even tissue traditionally regarded as permanent tissue may be revived into repair by differentiation, not referring only to stem cell related techniques, but use of optimising techniques to reactivate existing DNA repair systems. He is also the developer of a cutting edge micro-porous ceramic wound treatment device called Cerdak®, developed through a process of optimisation of a perfectly evolved healing process also known as the wound-healing cascade. This device has recently been launched in South Africa and is now being launched internationally.

The answer in solving this riddle probably lies in the simple concept of the maintenance of balance. A health-promoting balance can be usually achieved if we let common sense prevail and if extreme approaches to anything are avoided. In the modern-day Western thinking, medicine depends on so-called Evidence Based Research to design effective preventative and treatment strategies. It should be no different for aestheticians. However, it takes a great deal of time and even more money to accumulate the sort of evidence required to prove the difference between effective and excessive sun exposure. Fortunately, we do not need to wait for big trials and lots of specific evidence to act now and do the right thing. We have all of the tools to do the right thing right at hand now.

People need 15 minutes of direct sun exposure to face, neck and arms in near-midday sun on most days in summer to produce sufficient quantities of vitamin D. After the exposure they need to cover up with comfortable protective clothing and appropriate sunscreening lotions. At night, vitamin A and antioxidants should be applied to restore the vitamin A storehouse in the skin and to mop up any excessive free radicals accumulated during the day. These three steps form a solid unit that helps to ensure the critical production and preservation of vitamins A and D, while protecting and promoting the delicate cell health of the skin. It is always important to think of the balances required in almost everything we do in life. Equally, we can predict that when practising any excesses that they will ultimately lead to problems. Vitamin D appears to have become the Cinderella of the vitamins because of incomplete thinking or a critical lack of facts about the essential preventative factors involved in cancer formation. As aestheticians it is vital to understand the importance of all of the vitamins human skin has evolved with. Clients need level-headed advice on sensible and moderate habits to follow, especially when it comes to vitamin D. Perhaps the real key to solving this conundrum is to start maintenance of skin cells before they have suffered any damage. So let us not forget vitamin D. Make sure everyone has enough of it and together with vitamin A, procure the best quality skin to reduce the ever-present ogre of skin and other cancers.

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about the different types of equipment and what they offer. For example how different lasers target different levels of the skin. If I am to offer treatments on skin that h a s h a d s u c h procedures, I need to understand how the skin has been affected by these treatments and determine the best possible way that my treatments can interface w i t h a m e d i c a l procedure effectively for the best possible outcome.

On the 6 to 9 May the Australasian College of Cosmetic Surgery th(ACCS) celebrated its 10 anniversary and conducted its annual

Conference held at the Sydney Convention and Exhibition Centre, The most exciting developments I observed were the Darling Harbour. The 2009 Conference included a three-day academic introduction of new methods and techniques used when administering program with plenary sessions, workshops and an industry exhibition. injectibles that offer a more natural finish not only on the face, but also There were a number of high-profile local and international speakers for breast enhancement. It is quite evident that consumers prefer to from the cosmetic, plastic, facial and dermatology fields who undertake plastic surgery as a last resort, so progressively we are seeing presented the latest developments and procedures. new innovations in fillers, injectibles and Fractional Lasers that can

offer great results. Understanding the life-span of the various The conference attracted both medical and aesthetic therapists. It is injectibles and what ingredients I should be using in the salon to help now becoming a common phenomenon for medical cosmetic and anti- prolong the life of that procedure was very valuable to me, as once ageing conferences to welcome para-medical and aesthetic therapists again, this will help me better interface my procedures to the medical who are keen to increase their knowledge of new developments and ones my client may have had.gain a greater understanding of how their treatments can better interface with aesthetic medical procedures. But as an aesthetic therapist how should you approach such a conference and what can you expect to gain from it? To help you gain this information we By understanding the results that these procedures can offer will interviewed Gay Wardle who attended the recent ACCS Conference in Sydney:

As therapists we want to offer the very best for our clients. As we train and undertake more advanced procedures that offer anti-ageing results, so we will also attract the clients who have a higher expectat ion of their appearance. Progressively, we are seeing an increase in clients who have undergone cosmetic enhancement procedures such as Botox or various injectible fillers. But do you know how to continue offering your services to such clients without moving these fillers or doing damage? The ACCS Conference allowed me to gain a greater understanding of the different procedures and the new techniques that are now being used to improve one’s appearance. I also learnt

APJ 2. What new developments did you learn that you would like to share with us?Gay:

APJ 3. How can the information that you have gained help you with your salon clients?Gay:

APJ 1. Gay, why did you attend the ACCS Conference and what can an aesthetician expect to gain from such a conference?Gay:

The value of an Aesthetician attending a medical conference – What to expect and how you can benefit

industry eventindustry event

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now allow me to know what I can recommend to my clients. For example, if my client has deep wrinkles that I know I cannot reverse, I need to not only determine to what level my treatments can benefit the client, but also inform them of what medical procedures are available that can give them the full result they are looking for. Persisting in giving them promises you cannot deliver will only make you lose their trust. As a professional you need to know and be truthful with your client as to the level of result they can expect from you. It is your p ro fess iona l and e th ica l obligation to be honest with the results your treatments can achieve, and then recommend

both at the top end of medical procedures as well as within our own what other options they should consider if they want to reach a new aesthetics domain. I believe we will continue to see a surge of new level that you cannot achieve for them. In that way I know I can gain my innovations that will promise quicker, easier and more natural results. clients’ trust and respect and they will keep coming back to me. The more you know and understand of what both the medical and the aesthetics disciplines are offering, the better off you will be to determine what qualifications you will need to interface your procedures and work successfully with these advances. For example, understanding the composition of the different fillers will allow you to You only feel intimidated because you have a lack of knowledge. support their longevity. If for instance your client has had fillers that Once you increase your knowledge you will gain confidence not only are based on hyaluronic acid these will be short lived if the skin is in your work, but also you will become more comfortable to work with dehydrated; understanding this will help you support the skin with doctors as you will be able to speak the same language. It is naive to ingredients that boost the skin’s hydration levels and prolong the life of keep your head buried in the sand. If you are serious about your work the fillers. Furthermore, you would avoid the use of equipment or you should also be learning from peer groups, such as medical massage procedures that utilise suction movements, as these will move conferences. This will broaden your scope of knowledge and the fillers. understanding. It will assist you to undertake new procedures with

greater confidence of the full spectrum of possibilities, both through Knowing the different types of laser will also make a different to the your services and beyond. way you need to treat the skin. Co2 lasers remove all of the epidermis, whereas Fractional Co2 lasers leave 80 per cent of the epidermis intact. The best advice I could give an aesthetician attending a medical After such treatments the skin will need the support of powerful conference is to come prepared to take lots of notes. There may be antioxidants to enhance optimal rejuvenation.information presented that you may not understand. However, be

patient because you will find links that will expand your thinking and When considering anti-ageing you need to remember that age grasp new concepts that can prove to be valuable to you either now or prevention is also going to be a growing market. We are now seeing down the track of your educational development. Remember that from individuals as young as in their 20s who are having Botox because they an academic environment the information presented may be more are becoming very conscious of maintaining a flawless complexion. “conceptual” especially if the lecturer is presenting research findings. Think about this age group as a potential market – age prevention is no Don’t make the mistake to expect it to be given “training skills” and longer about the mature woman any more, and also don’t forget the “how to”procedures. men.

The anti-ageing revolution will also require that you continue growing your knowledge also on the internal factors that may contribute to : Gaining information that is more advanced than your immediate compromising one’s appearance. Changing hormonal levels, muscle scope of practice is extremely valuable. First, because it will help you and bone degeneration will also contribute to the appearance of ageing. gain understanding of the full spectrum of treatment options and this Gaining knowledge on how to support the body in these areas will open will allow you to better appreciate where your services fit in. Second, up new possibilities for you as well. If we choose to grow our you will gain information that you can build on that may become the knowledge and education then the gap between the aesthetic stepping stone for you to take the leap and pursue higher educational practitioner and the medical practitioner will close down, offering qualifications. I also would encourage you to ask yourself why you are greater possibilities of successful collaborative working relationships.in this industry? If you want to be considered as an expert practitioner

you will need to continue learning and researching as a way of life.You cannot remain successful unless you are constantly investing in your knowledge and education. This will not only continue to make your work exciting, but will also safeguard your future survival in your profession.

There are numerous new developments entering the industry,

APJ 4. Many qualified beauty therapists may feel intimidated attending a medical conference. What advice would you give them as to why they should attend?Gay:

APJ 5. What is the benefit of attending a conference that may be pitched outside of the scope of your training and education?Gay

APJ 6. What changes do you see in appearance enhancement in the future and do you see any of these procedures being delivered in an aesthetic clinic? How can an aesthetician best prepare to move into this realm of work?Gay:

laser phototheraphy

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When it comes to laser photo-medicine, dermal and soft tissue repair Tina Czech is considered an international leader in her field and a highly regarded laser and health science educator and clinician. In her THE LESSONS OF HISTORY IN earlier years she experienced the LASER TECHNOLOGYdevastating effects of an accident that caused her incredible skin damage and trauma to underlying tissues, which led to her interest in identifying therapeutic modalities that could modify scar tissue at both an dermal and subcutaneous level. Tina has achieved extensive qualifications to undertake dermal and tissue repair at a remedial level utilising phototherapy and is heavily involved in medical research. She is a regular speaker at many national and international laser, health and medical conferences, where she presents the latest findings in the area of laser photo-medicine, dermal and tissue repair.

In this article Tina Czech addresses the key factors relating to sun-induced and chronological ageing of the skin.

THE MANIFESTATIONS OF AGEING

COMBINATION PHOTO- REJUVENATION USING THERMAL AND NON-THERMAL LASER

extent from person to person, therefore a multifaceted approach to treatment must be employed for each individual.

The principle of selective photo-thermal activation using lasers with power outputs above 1 watt was introduced in 1981 and was a turning point in dermatological treatment and surgery. The lessons of history teach us that the best and safest clinical outcome is obtained by a systematic approach, especially when it comes to laser technology and the laser ‘burn and learn era’ is now considered over. The selective absorption of laser light delivered at very fast speeds leads to photo-thermal activation, involving light-absorbing molecules (chromophores) such as blood, melanin, porphyrins, amino acids and water, which play an active role in the absorption of specific wavelengths of laser light within the skin. This enables a more controlled method of removing damaged capillaries, benign age- related neoplasms such as seborrheic keratoses, cherry angiomas, lentigo, and senile hyperplasias without the risk of hypop igmen ta t ion a s soc ia t ed wi th conventional medical cauterisation or

The outward s igns of age ing a re cryotherapy. predominantly seen in the visible changes to the skin due to intrinsic and extrinsic factors Laser bio-modulation using lasers with output and as life expectancy increases so does the powers in the milliwatt range do not produce search for intervening modalities that will p h o t o - t h e r m a l a c t i v a t i o n , i n s t e a d sustain health, as well as improve the photochemical responses are instigated to individual’s appearance by reversing the enhance physiological and biological activity. visible signs of ageing of the skin and body Therapeutic lasers for implementing bio-tissues. modulation were introduced in the late 1970s

and are widely used in areas of health care to An average decline of 1-2% per year in dermal relieve pain, accelerate healing of all types of collagen content following menopause has tissue and improve circulation and lymph been reported and may reflect a hormonal drainage. etiology, although the effect of oestrogen appears to be dependent on the baseline collagen content at the onset of the treatment and exerts a preventative role in collagen loss in those women with lower initial collagen levels. Interfibril proteoglycans decrease and

Routine skin rejuvenation to reduce wrinkles collagen becomes more insoluble, and

using high-intensity photo-thermal laser or biochemical studies have revealed that in

intense pulsed light operating with output photo-aged skin levels of type 1 and 111

powers above 1 watt should ideally be collagen precursors and cross-links are

reinforced with low-intensity non-thermal reduced, whereas elastin levels are increased,

therapeutic laser operating in the milliwatt and that this is more evident in men. Individual

range of power. Application of therapeutic susceptibility dictates that the visible signs of

laser once to twice a week between routine photo-ageing of the skin differ in severity and

Extending your treatment possibilities in rejuvenation of the ageing face and skin with

PHOTOTHERAPY TECHNOLOGIES Tina H.E. Czech Principal: Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy

immediately after non-thermal therapeutic laser all performed

in one treatment session

immediately after thermal laser

Before photo-rejuvenation with thermal laser

photo-thermal skin-rejuvenation treatments signalling and the synthesis of transcription will maintain optimum energy levels and factors, and nuclear proteins that bind the cellular metabolism in collagen producing DNA to enhance or repress gene transcription. fibroblast cells as well as rejuvenate the It has been identified that sun-exposed underlying muscles and connective tissue of epidermis shows signs of dysplasia and is the the face, neck and chest, which is currently not forerunner of neoplastic changes. This begins being addressed with photo-thermal with minor irregularities in cell and nuclear procedures alone. size, shape and staining, as well as an increase

in irregular melanin deposits accompanied by the physical signs of erythema and telangiectasia, which may be associated to the decrease in the lack of support for the dermal The cutaneous fat and muscles with their vasculature.aponeuroses ( super f ic ia l muscu lo-

aponeurotic system, SMAS) exert an Large tangled masses of degraded elastic enormous impact on apparent age and can be tissue replaces strong binding collagen fibres, successfully manipulated by aesthetic plastic resulting in a collapsed and heavily wrinkled surgeons. The volume and contour changes appearance and is the most prominent are just as important as the skin surface histological feature of photo-damage. This characteristics when perceiving a person’s solar elastotic degeneration in the dermal age. Follow-up treatment with therapeutic connective tissue occurs in sun-exposed skin laser after aesthetic surgery will assist in and is completely preventable by avoiding maintaining firm facial contours and optimum extensive direct sun exposure and overuse of skin regeneration.solariums and using sunblock that screens not only UVB, but UVA solar wavelengths as Skin-resurfacing procedures that involve the well.removal of the sun-damaged epidermis by

cosmetic dermatologists and aesthetic Cumulated photo-damage from the sun and surgeons using CO2 or Erbium laser should other climatic stimuli result not only in visible ideally incorporate therapeutic laser daily changes at an epidermal level, but also affect within the first two weeks after the epidermis the dermis and in some individuals attributes has been ablated, to facilitate faster renewal of up to 90% of the aged appearance. the epidermis and rapidly reduce swelling and

associated pain as well as inflammation, to Chronological ageing is associated with the avoid the risk of post-inflammatory skin continuous formation of reactive oxygen hyperpigmentation. species (ROS) generated during oxidative cellular metabolism to produce cellular Although skin ageing comprises only a energy, and this occurs in every cell in every portion of the entire ageing process, data from type of tissue. ROS damages cell membranes, the National Ambulatory Medical Care survey RNA, enzymes and DNA, including DNA – in the USA, show that during the years of 1996 protein and protein – protein interactions. Not – 1997, 4.6% of total physician visits were only ROS accelerate the ageing process, but so related to dermatological problems and this does the shortening of telomeres, which are percentage is anticipated to be even higher as repetitive DNA sequences that cap the ends of the proportion of elderly in the population chromosomes of eukaryotic cells, and these increases. A worldwide trend towards shorten with each cell division. Even in reversing the visible signs of ageing has relatively quiescent skin fibroblast cells more indicated that the importance of skin and its than 30% of the telomere length is lost during appearance has been the result of increased adulthood. awareness created by the advertising media.

As a result, a substantial increase in the Critically short telomeres signal cell cycle number of visits to skin-therapy centres and arrest depending on the cell type, which laser clinics is anticipated. To effectively contributes to cellular depletion with ageing. manage and offer the proper intervention Administering therapeutic laser directly to the modalities to reverse cutaneous ageing, it is skin surface, at specific dosages and important to be familiar with the clinical and frequencies, has been proven to instigate histological changes that take place in the skin electron transfer within the respiratory chain to assist in not only selecting the right of the cell mitochondria, resulting in increases treatments for clients, but in preventing and in cellular energy and consequently cell slowing down the negative effects of ageing regeneration within all types of tissue and with adequate sun protection, cosmeceutical skin. The oxidative effects of this increased skin products and nutrition therapy. cell respiration is consequently offset by increased amounts of the intracellular enzyme superoxide dismutase, which assists in neutralising ROS.

Sun-induced photo-ageing of the skin results from activation of cell surface receptors,

Anti-ageing medicine encompasses more than which leads to propagation of intracellular

just skin photo-rejuvenation using photo-

FACIAL AGEING IS THREE-DIMENSIONAL

CRITICAL FACTORS IN THE AGEING PROCESS

APJ 61

Upper and lower blepharoplasty and Erbium skin resurfacing

7 days after daily treatment with therapeutic laser

6 weeks after erbium laser skin resurfacing

7 days after daily treatment with therapeutic laser

APJ 62

thermal laser or IPL. It involves a holistic approach to the effects of ageing at a cellular level and tissue/organ level. The implementation of non-thermal therapeutic laser instigates the resuscitation of the mitochondria where cellular ageing begins. It then continues its effects on an extracellular level to reduce inflammation and enhance micro-circulation, lymphatic drainage and immune response. It does that to defend the entire organism against accelerated ageing and should also be considered an integral part of any anti-ageing treatment and form part of the aftercare following aesthetic surgery of the face and body.

The Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy is internationally renowned training organisation in the field of cosmetic and therapeutic laser and accredited post-graduate education in laser and IPL. Telephone 1300 887 344 for further information.

1. Marks, R. Sun-Damaged Skin. Pub. Martin Dunitz Ltd. 1992 2. Karu, T. ‘Photobiological fundamentals of low-power laser therapy’.

thAbstract of European Quantum Electronics Conference and 10 National Quantum Electronics Conference, 27-30 Aug. 1991, Edinburgh, Technical Digest, p.208.3. Lam , T., Abergal, P., Meeker, C. et al 1986 Low Energy Lasers selectively enhanced collagen synthesis. Lasers in Life Sciences 1: 61-77. 4. Dyson, M., Young, S. Effects of Laser Therapy on Wound Contraction and Cellularity in Mice. In Lasers in Medical Science Vol 1: 125 1996. 5. Leivens, P., Mohebbian, M. The effect of IR-laser irradiation on the regeneration of muscle fibres. In Laser Therapy in Dentistry and Medicine. Prima Books in Sweden AB Eds Jan Tuner and Lars Hode . 1996, p. 164-179.

rd6. Czech, T. H. E. 3 World Congress for Laser Therapy, 10-13 May 2000 Athens, Greece.7. Brincat M., Kabalan S., Studd J W. , et al (1994) A study of the decrease of skin collagen content, skin thickness and bone mass in post-menopausal women. Obstet.Gynecol 70:840-845. 8. Allsopp R C, Vaziri H, Patterson C, Goldstein S, Younglai E V, Futcher A B, Greider C W., Harley C B. (1992) telomere length predicts replicative capacity of human fibroblasts. 9. Yaar, M., Gilchrest B A, (2003) Ageing of skin. In Freeberg I M., Eisen A Z., Wolf K., Austen K F., Goldsmith LA., Katz S I., (eds) Fitzpatricks dermatology in general medicine, vol. McGraw-Hill, New York, pp 1386- 1398. 10. Passarella, S., Ostuni, A., Atlante, A. and Quagliariello, E. (1988b) Increase in the ADP/ATP exchange in the rat liver mitochondria irradiated in vitro by He-Ne laser. Biochem. Biophys. Res. Commun., 156, 978-986.

Tina Czech is the principal of the Australian Institute Of Laser Therapy and holds a university degree in health science, graduate diploma in clinical nutrition, i n t e r n a t i o n a l d i p l o m a i n aesthetics and electrotherapy and numerous accredited post-graduate qualifications in laser. She is currently undertaking her PhD in the field of laser b i o m o d u l a t i o n . T i n a i s internationally renowned as a leading educator in her field, s p e c i a l i s i n g i n l a s e r photomedicine, dermal and tissue repair, with over 15 years of clinical experience in laser, and is a member of the honorary board of directors for the World Academy of Laser Applications and laser technical adviser to the Royal District Nursing Service LILT Research Reference Group, Standards Australia Medical Laser Committee, and APAA Australian Medical and Clinical Laser Professionals and President of the Australian Society Of Dermal Clinicians.

REFERENCES

Have you considered introducing Laser or Pulsed Light Therapy

to your clinic?

Do you need to upgrade your qualifications?

Laser Science and Safe Use of Laser and Intense Pulsed Light

DATES

Graduate Certificate in Clinical Laser Therapy and Intense Pulsed Light for Dermatology and Scar Repair

DATES

Graduate Certificate in Clinical Laser Therapy for Musculoskeletal Conditions, Pain and Wound Healing

DATES

or

The Australian Institute of Laser Therapy offers training and qualifications as follows:

Laser Safety Certificate 1 day course

(21711VIC)

st21 July 2009th11 August 2009th28 September 2009

1 year Graduate Certificate- distance and classroom learning

(21712VIC)

21-23 July 2009 11-13 August 2009

(21713VIC)

28-30 September 2009

For more information please visit our website www.ailt.com.au Or phone 1300 887 344

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profession development

APJ 64

As Anti-ageing medicine as a profession is gaining the recognition and respect of its peers it is important that the aesthetic industry becomes familiar with what it represents and what it has to offer in the area of disease prevention and even reversal. This information will allow you to better understand how this stream of medicine can significantly enhancing one’s health, quality of life as well as anti-ageing results with or without surgery or aesthetic procedures. Below we presented A5M board members with a few questions on the principles of anti-ageing medicine and what one can expect from this conference:

We live in a society that values youth above all else. While non-invasive and surgical aesthetic enhancement procedures will help us look younger, they won’t stop us from ageing inside. Although the field of Anti-Ageing Medicine is a fairly new discipline, there is a growing awareness among people wanting to maintain good

We are delighted to announce the upcoming health and vitality. Millions of people, celebrities and captains of industry, of all ages, worldwide are embracing Anti-Ageing Medicine

hosted by the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing as a wellness model of choice.Medicine (A5M) on the 3-4 October, 2009 in Melbourne. As an organisation, APAN is strongly supporting this event and encourages Anti-Ageing Medicine signifies the evolution of wellness and aesthetic therapists to attend and benefit from this conference as a medicine from an ‘illness’ (reactive) model to a ‘wellness’ serious investment in their professional development. The conference (preventative) model. By identifying internal imbalances and will feature leading international and local speakers of the highest deficiencies that compromise health, we can often significantly reverse calibre who are authorities in their area of expertise. The topics are factors that contribute to pre-mature ageing and disease. In that way, numerous and varied and represent the latest scientific information on we are not only working to enhance the external appearance of the both internal and external anti-ageing research findings, protocols and individual, but also supporting their inner health by addressing the techniques. This is an event that will undoubtedly change the way you specific areas of concern. view the human body as well as the way your address your own treatments and practices. According to Dr Bob Goldman, co-Founder and Chairman of the

Board of the American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine (A4M) and By quoting the reference number mentioned on the ad promoting this President of the World Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine, anti-ageing event on page 67 you can also benefit from a Special APAN delegates’ is much more than skin deep. You can’t achieve anti-ageing through a rate available to all Aesthetics Practitioner Journal readers. skin cream, a piece of fitness equipment, or even a vitamin pill (not yet,

at least). Anti-ageing medical care involves a regimen incorporating

Q 1. Dr Michael Zacharia is t h e P r e s i d e n t o f t h e AustralAsian Academy of A n t i - A g e i n g M e d i c i n e (A5M). We asked him as a cosmetic and plastic surgeon and an anti-ageing physician how important is internal health to the results that can be expected from anti-ageing procedures? Answer:

rd3 Annual Anti-Ageing& Aesthetic Medicine Conference – Changing Paradigms in Medicine

Investing in your Professional Developmentrd3 Annual Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference

APJ 65

multiple elements of scientifically based age-reversal medical key role in how we age. The “flight-or-fight” response increases interventions administered under the guidance of a trained anti- production of the stress-hormone cortisol, which has been ageing physician or health professional. These include modalities identified as an age accelerator. Not only does it impact on that cover Cosmetic Medicine (aesthetic preservation and hormones and skin ageing, but it also makes us gain body fat, lose enhancement) as well as Internal Age Management. muscle mass and memory. Additional facts such as sugary and fried

foods, alcohol and smoking, which we often turn to when stressed, Anti-Ageing Medicine is based on a preventative approach to cause cortisol and insulin levels to rise, accelerating the ageing patient care – the early detection, prevention and treatment of age- process. related disease. It is a philosophy borne out of the principles of When the body’s ability to detoxify itself is Sports Medicine that uses a pro-active approach to creating a impaired by external and internal toxins, it can’t find equilibrium, healthy mind and body. According to Dr Goldman, Anti-Ageing which is important for maintaining good health. This leads to Medicine is among the fastest growing medical specialties fatigue and trouble with cognitive function, which eventually may throughout the world. He says, Anti-Ageing Medicine is: lead to diseases such as cancer. Toxins affect the skin when foods

There is scientific evidence to support anti-ageing high in fat, sugar, and other chemicals in the diet cause a hormonal, diagnostic and treatment practices. nutritional and cellular change that impairs the body’s ability to

detoxify itself. They manifest in acne, dry patches, sallowing of the Effective treatment is assigned, based on a skin, dark circles, wrinkles and more. A detox program begins with process for acquiring data in order to formulate a scientific and what you eat. A healthy diet, free from sugar and with ample water objective assessment.intake is essential in order to clear out toxins. Special Anti-Ageing The National Eating Programs recommend specific food combinations and Library of Medicine hosts more than 3,000 peer-reviewed quantities for healthy eating. articles on Anti-Ageing Medicine.

The whole basis of Anti-Ageing Medicine is not just about surgery and taking hormones. It’s all about lifestyle change to help reduce the diseases that typically occur in the body once a person hits their

Until recently, the general perception of Anti-Ageing 40s and beyond.Medicine was the external aesthetic rejuvenation of a patient, using technologies, dermal injections, cosmeceuticals and surgery to effect change. The word Anti-Ageing has been widely adopted by cosmetic companies in marketing campaigns and thus associated The following five anti-ageing theories can assist in with Aesthetic services only. However, there is much more that can increasing your longevity:be done if you are seeking real anti-ageing benefits. At this Although conference you will broaden your scope of understanding as to what inflammation is blamed for many chronic diseases, and ageing, we anti-ageing medicine is all about. You will benefit from information don’t always know what causes it. There are blood tests that on factors that cause internal ageing, new discoveries and research measure pro-inflammatory cells, called cytokines that give us some findings. You will learn about procedures, nutritional issues, diet idea of the presence of inflammation in your body. A poor diet, and treatment protocols that will give you a more comprehensive insufficient sleep and exposure to the sun, all these can create understanding of what factors contribute to the ageing process. You inflammation at a cellular level, with no visible external signs. This will benefit from information on the new medical approach and kind of inflammation can be responsible for many age-related tools that can not only enhance one’s appearance, but also support diseases, such as Alzheimers, cancer, and heart disease. Eating a their health, wellness and quality of life. Your new-found whole foods diet, and exercise, is a great start to minimising knowledge gained from this conference will not only benefit how inflammation. By doing so, you can curtail disease, extend life, and you address your profession, but also benefit you as the look younger.therapist/practitioner. In addition, by attending specific workshops Levels of key hormones such as oestrogen, that are run in conjunction with the conference, you will be able to progesterone, testosterone, dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), learn how to build and run a profitable business – from stock, staff, thyroid, and human growth hormone (HGH) all decrease as we start business management, marketing and more.to age. Increasing one or more of these essential biochemicals may

improve health, and hinder the ageing process. However, doing so requires the careful supervision of a specialist Anti-Ageing Physician. As you modify one hormone you affect the others.

There will be numerous world-renowned speakers of the According to Anti-Ageing Physician, Dr Ronald Klatz, hormonal highest calibre, but we are particularly delighted to present: replacement therapy (HRT) adjusts each hormone so you can

achieve a more youthful state of the major hormones across the board. Similarly, certain foods, combinations and quantities can be

Member of the A4M Board of Scientific Advisors and pioneer in used to help restore hormonal balance.Anti-Aging Medicine /Interventional Endocrinology. Dr Antioxidants and vitamins A, C and E Rothenberg will be speaking on protect the body’s cells and help to prevent free radical damage.

Prevention of free radical damage, caused by ageing, stress, sun and He will also be speaking on pollution, in the body and the skin can avert and forestall the ageing

process. Good quality multivitamins or a topical application that contains the antioxidant vitamins and minerals is essential to help combat free radical activity. Zinc, iron and other essential minerals

Manon Pilon is a world-renowned Medispa expert and author of also play a key role in supporting overall wellness.Anti-Aging the Cure: Based on your Body Type. Pilon will be Our lifestyle, which is what we eat, drink and conducting a medispa workshop on expose ourselves to, can influence how quickly or slowly we age.

where she will present the secrets of how to earn up Stress increases the production of the hormone cortisol, and this can to $500,000 per Medispa room. This was a sellout workshop in directly affect how we age. From an early age we have the ability to Dubai recently and it looks set to be the MediSpa event of the year in make decisions and be in control of our lifestyle, which will Australia, (see Aesthetic Industry Bulletin page 93 for details).determine how fast we age. Stress and how we deal with it plays a

Detox theory:

Scientific –

Evidence-based –

Well-documented by peer-reviewed journals –

Q 3. How can an Anti-Ageing Medical Conference benefit an aesthetics practitioner or a spa therapist? Answer:

Q 2. Can you explain the theories on which Anti-Ageing Medicine is based? Answer:

Inflammation theory, the silent killer:

Hormonal theory:

Q 4. What are some of the expected highlights of this conference that a delegate can look forward to? Answer:

Dr Ron Rothenberg

Antioxidant theory:“Treating adult hormone

deficiency using bio-identical hormone replacement therapy – a practical application”. “Growth Hormone: Fountain of Youth or Fallacy?”

Manon Pilon

Lifestyle theory:“Medispa: Increasing Your

Bottom Line”,

Robert Goldman, MD, PhD, DO, FAASP

“The brain as a muscle – how to achieve optimal brain performance”. “Stem Cells in Anti-Ageing Medicine”.

Dr Gregory W. Petersburg

popular Living Younger Preventive-Aging Medicine & Business System

“Starting your own successful Preventative-Ageing Practice”

The A5M Conference - “Changing Paradigms in Medicine” is an unparalleled local opportunity to network with leaders in the field and hear world expert speakers on internal, external and complementary Anti-Ageing Medicine. For further information and to book your attendance visit www.a5m.net or call 03 9813 0439. The Conference will be held 3-4 October at the Sofitel on Collins, Melbourne.

Chairman, World Anti-Aging Academy of Medicine (WAAAM), Chairman, American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine (A4M), Advisory Board Member, AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M), Olympic Sports, Fitness and Aging

Dr Goldman will be speaking on

He will also be speaking on He is the driving

force behind the Anti-Ageing Medicine movement since 1997. He is the Co-founder and Chairman of the American Academy of Anti-Aging Medicine (A4M) and the International Medical Commission overseeing sports medicine committees in over 176 nations. He has served as a Special Advisor to the President's Council on Physical Fitness and Sports, and travels extensively around the world each year to raise awareness of Anti-Ageing Medicine and sports medicine programs. He is a black belt in karate, Chinese weapons expert, and world champion athlete with over 20 world strength records with a listing in the Guinness Book of World Records. Based in Chicago, Illinois, Dr Goldman is author of more than a dozen books, including ‘The Anti-Ageing Revolution’, ‘Stopping the Clock’, and ‘Brain Fitness’. You can order Dr Goldman’s books from the A5M Bookstore (www.a5m.net).

Gregory Petersburg D.O is a popular international speaker and educator for physicians and the public about preventive-ageing medicine, also appearing on radio, television, and in various publications. He specialises exclusively in preventive-ageing medicine. Dr. Petersburg is the author and owner of the

and physician training programs. Widely used by preventive-ageing practitioners across the U.S. and internationally, the Living Younger system provides the most comprehensive set of tools available for both the business and clinical practice of preventive-ageing medicine. Additionally, Dr. Petersburg offers intensive hands-on training programs for preventive-ageing practitioners, and he is sought out as a ‘Designed Experience’ consultant to healthcare businesses seeking to design and create captivating patient and employee experiences.

Dr Gregory Petersburg, D.O will run a full day workshop on

at the Conference. Transitioning to a profitable Preventive-Ageing business can be difficult. But with the right system and support it can be extremely rewarding. Dr Petersburg will show you how.

APJ 66

CONFERENCE TOPICS AND SPEAKERS(subject to change without notice)As the Conference Program is still a work-in-progress you will need to visit the A5M website on www.a5m.net) for a full update on the topics and speakers as they will be finalised approximately by the end of July. Meanwhile, below we present a sample of some of the topics and speakers that will feature this year.

An Introduction to Anti-Ageing Medicine – Dr Bob Goldman (USA)

Hormone Myths – Dr Ron Rothenberg (USA)

Genomics providing insights into anti-ageing – Prof Brian Morris (Aust)

The brain as a muscle and how to achieve optimal brain performance – Dr Bob Goldman (USA)

Stress, Telomeres and Botanical Medicine – Dr Daniel Weber (Aust)

Introduction to treating adult hormone deficiency – Dr Ron Rothenberg (USA)

Compounding Pharmaceuticals in Anti-Ageing and Skincare – Mr Daryll Knowles (Aust)

IV Vitamins in Anti-ageing Medicine – Dr Ian Dettman (Aust)

Oestrogen, testosterone, growth hormone, IGF-1, stem cells and cancer. How this complex dance governs ageing – Dr Michael Elstein (Aust)

Genomics of the Skin and Hair – New Frontiers in Cosmetic Medicine – Dr Fernando Cortizo (Aust)

The Hormonal Control of the Metabolic Syndrome – Dr Peter Tunbridge (Aust)

Stem Cells and Plasma Rich Protein for Skin Rejuvenation – Dr Michael Zacharia (Aust)

Chronic Fatigue and Fibromyalgia – Dr Tania Ash (Aust)

Your gut and your life; Make Them Work for You – Dr Daniel Weber (Aust)

Cortisol and thyroid hormone-why they are pivotal to the anti-ageing saga – Dr Michael Elstein (Aust)

The combination of internal nutritional supplementation and external galvanics for optimum skin tightening – Dr Marilyn Golden (Aust)

Sleep Basics – Mr Henry Oscieki (Aust)

The Wiley Protocol – T.S Wiley (USA)

Inflammation, insulin and hormone function – how these intersect to determine the journey that defines ageing – Dr Michael Elstein (Aust)

Women, Beauty and Sleep – Mr Henry Oscieki (Aust)

Stem Cells in Anti-ageing Medicine – Dr Bob Goldman (USA)TMBioplasty : A natural approach of cosmetic medicine – Dr Simo Fassi-Fihri (Aust)

Demystifying weight loss – Dr Janethy Balakrishnan (Malaysia)

TSH in anti-ageing – Dr Tessa Jones (NZ)

Stem Cells in Skin Rejuvenation – Dr Janethy Balakrishnan (Malaysia)

Ageing and Sleep – Mr Henry Oscieki (Aust)

Environmental Toxins – How To Detoxify Yourself – Dr Selvam Rengasamy (Indonesia)

Current use of threads for face lifting – Dr Michael Zacharia (Aust)

The Limbic Diet – Dr Peter Bablis (Aust)

Inflammation & Essential Fatty Acids – Quenching the Neuronal Fire with Oils –Dr Stephen Eddy (Aust)

Health Reform — How Anti-Aeging medicine MUST change the current medical system – Dr Paul Bergamo (Aust)

Difference between biodentical and synthetic hormones – Mr Daryll Knowles (Aust)

Food Allergies vs Sensitivities – Mr Bill Anton (Aust)

Adrenal Fatigue – Dr Tania Ash (Aust)

Neurotransmitters relevant to mood disorders – Ms Jenny Smith (Aust)

Inflammation assessment and treatment options – Prof Bob Allan (Aust)

Chelation Therapy and Heavy Metals – Prof Bob Allen (Aust)

CHANGING PARADIGMS IN MEDICINEJoin the world’s leading experts in Anti-Ageing

& Aesthetic Medicine.

3RD ANNUAL AUSTRALASIAN ANTI-AGEING & AESTHETIC MEDICINE CONFERENCE 2009 October 3-4 Sofi tel Melbourne on Collins Reserve your place now on www.a5m.net or call +61 3 9813 0439

“So many want to tap into this amazinglylucrative cash business, but how can it be done without losing your shirt? With the right training you can be earning up to $500,000 a year per Spa treatment room.”

Manon PilonWorld MediSpa expert and author of “Anti-Aging The Cure: Based on your Body Type”.

Internationally recognised MediSpa expert, Manon Pilon will impart the secrets of her success and show you how to earn up to $500,000 per treatment room.

The ‘MediSpa: Increasing Your Bottom Line’ Workshop, will give you the practical knowledge to establish and revitalise your MediSpa and increase your business profi ts.

With more than 20 years of MediSpa expertise, Manon founded some of the world’s most successful MediSpas. She is a Medical Spa consultant, recognised educator, researcher, medical aesthetician, International Director of Education for “Derme.ca” and renowned author of the book entitled ‘Anti-Aging The Cure: Based on your Body Type’.

This workshop is one of many highlights of the 3rd Annual Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medicine Conference hosted by the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M).

TOPICS INCLUDE:

• The Right Spa Equipment: Choosing the right equipment without over-capitalising

• The Most Profi table Spa Services & Treatments: Where to focus your business attention for best returns

• The Right Service Mix: Combining Anti-Ageing Medicine with MediSpa services to broaden your practice

• Tips On The Most Profi table Spa Products: Choosing the products which serve you and your clients

• Getting & Keeping The Right Team: Staffi ng for service and profi tability

• Marketing & Client Satisfaction: Attracting clients and keeping them coming back more often

• Business Management Systems: How to keep it all running smoothly

MEDISPA WORKSHOP: EARN UP TO $500,000 PER MEDISPA ROOM! WITH MANON PILON

MANON’S DUBAI WORKSHOP SOLD OUT BOOK EARLY!

SUNDAY OCTOBER 4 - 9.00AM – 5.00PM

COST: $400 INCL GST

SPECIAL OFFER -ONLINE REGISTRATONFOR APAN SUBSCRIBERSTO QUALIFY FOR A 10% DISCOUNT ON CONFERENCE REGISTRATION,QUOTE APAN10/09 WHEN REGISTERING ONLINE.This discount is not available with any other offers. Online Registrations only. Conditions apply.

APJ 68

“The more I want to get something done, the less I call it work.” Richard Bach

months her turnover increased by 540% as she developed and implemented an extensive treatment menu delivered through excellent protocols and procedures.

Staying focused on your objectives is often a matter of the heart, and In 2002 Katrina’s Beauty Works entered the APAA’s Awards of

this is where inspiration can give you the motivation to stay on course Excellence and won SALON OF THE YEAR. The following year she

on your road to success, whatever you perceive that to be. So for our launched a second salon and once again entered the awards. This time

first issue of the Aesthetics Practitioners Journal we trace the steps of her new salon won BEST NEW ESTABLISHMENT.

an incredible lady and her achievements and trust that her story will fuel you with enthusiasm for what you are currently pursuing.

When questioned on how she achieved such quick success Katrina did not hesitate. “I always took good advice, however, I also did not

As a young girl Katrina Gilligan suffered from acne and was on a quest hesitate to break with tradition in the way I conducted my marketing

to find answers, researching for the best solutions, and from there a and my business. I tried different ways of doing things that I was told

spark of interest grew in solving skin problems. After completing Year wouldn’t work – but they did work. Having said that, I can honestly say

12 in Melbourne she enrolled at Melbourne University to do a teaching that my business did not grow on savvy marketing, but grew on treating

degree, but after 12 months deffered her studies to move to each client as if they were the most important person in the world. The

Queensland. However, her interest in skin therapy continued to draw reason I put a lot of energy into my work is because I love this industry

her attention and she finally enrolled and completed a Diploma in with a passion. I work very, very hard, but for me this is an enjoyable

Beauty Therapy in 1994 and started working in the industry. process. Our customer care is based on two principles – professionalism and genuine client care.”

It was not until December 2000 that Katrina decided to take the plunge and buy her own salon business. Having accepted a role reversal with

So how far has Katrina’s passion taken her? She currently owns 11 her husband who was to undertake the care of their children, she would

salons with a 12th opening in early July. She is the principal of two now become the sole breadwinner - a challenge for any couple, let

Government Approved training colleges that deliver training in hair, alone someone who was undertaking a new business, and a small one at

nails and beauty and she is also the owner of Salon Pacific Beauty that.

Supplies – a product distribution company that services the professional beauty industry.

The location was Burpengary, situated north of Brisbane on the outskirts of Caboolture, which is the closest main town. Burpengary

The growth into the other areas of work was a result of necessity and mainly consists of small to medium family properties and is considered

opportunity. In 2005 the lease on her first salon expired and the owner a fairly low socioeconomic region.

had other plans to develop the area. She therefore had to make a quick decision as to where to relocate. The premises she found were perfect,

Katrina did not want to take any risks so she purchased a medium-sized but too large for just a salon. As she always had an interest in teaching

salon with six working rooms. The salon was operated by a sole-and sharing her knowledge she saw the opportunity to introduce a

practitioner with obviously very modest business activity bringing in training facility with the rest of the space. The college set out to deliver

takings from $800-$1200 a week and therefore on sale for an high standards of training at qualification levels and soon grew in

affordable price. Challenges followed and Katrina decided to consult a reputation and in student numbers. It was not long after that the space

business coach to help her with some business strategies. Within 12

Gaining the Winning FormulaGaining the Winning Formula

salon success

was no longer sufficient to accommodate the needs of the college and so she purchased new premises and custom-fitted it to accommodate a college with a six-cubicle student salon.

As the college and the salon prospered so did the opportunity to open up further salons. With a strong belief in diversification and synergy Katrina identified her new move to undertake a product distribution company. With two colleges and 11 salons there was a need for quality control and accessibility of products and equipment that delivered consistent, high results. Currently Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies offers the industry a comprehensive range of salon accessory items and quality salon equipment and furniture. It also distributes BDazzled Constantly gaining knowledge, Katrina is quick to also indicate that Teeth Whitening, Graft-a-Lash Lash Extensions, quality Lish waxes, she does not believe in concrete plans. “We are told that information great Body Wraps, a comprehensive range of nail polishes, spray now doubles every five years. It is therefore not realistic to stick to tanning, Young Nails Gel and Acrylic products and they have just been rigid plans. I believe in setting goals and aiming for targets, however, I appointed the Australian distributor of Bio Pacific Skincare – a quality am also open and flexible to review every opportunity that comes my skincare that offers salons excellent results. way.” Katrina pauses, then continues, “Being very much a visionary, I

love to tackle new challenges. I love to sow new seeds in the garden of life. Then I appoint others to grow the garden and look for new

Katrina did not hesitate to also acknowledge her success was due to the opportunities.” Reviewing her business journey, she continues, “I get incredible support she gained from a professional and business calls all the time about salons for sale, and if it feels right, I investigate women’s network – a group she had joined to network and learn from and decide what to do. I go very much with my intuition and how I other business and professional women. Through this group she evaluate the situation at the time. Sometimes we can think too much formed some valuable relationships with women from a diverse range and look at all the obstacles, and in so doing miss the opportunities. I of industries with whom she became friends and who championed her encourage others not to spend too much time working on the plan, but with encouragement and ideas on how to achieve her success. “I rather concentrate on making it happen,” she adds with conviction.admire how these women helped and supported me, and did not hesitate to share their knowledge with me,” Katrina said. “It was great When questioned about what advice would she give colleagues who getting the wisdom of other businesswomen’s perspective. This is so are struggling with difficult economic times she covered several important if we are to achieve in business.” interesting points:

Operational strategies

The value of networking

APJ 69

APJ 70

Excellence in client service –

The three key considerations –

Constantly do self-checks –

Diversify –

Keep tabs on your financial position –

Mistakes –

Persevere –

Experience the strategies you develop –

Value your staff –

The future

For further information visit www.katrinas.com.au or www.salonpacific.com.au

As your top priority, make sure that your clients get the very best of care each and every time they come to you. You should not only meet with their expectations, but also exceed them.

Make sure you constantly improve and refine these three areas: a. The quality of the treatments you deliverb. The courteous and professional way in which you deliver

your servicesc. The professional and warm ambience you will welcome

your client into

On a regular basis ask yourself the following question, “If I was the client what would I really appreciate from my therapist?” I am always asking myself this, both for the salon and the colleges that I run. Constantly look at what you can improve on and how you can do things better.

Look for ways that you can diversify what you are doing and how you can grow your income stream. Don’t feel you must only stick to the one thing you do. If an opportunity arises consider its benefits, and if finances permit step out and take it on. This is how we grew – by responding to opportunities. Stepping out to establish our second salon was the hardest. Once we did that the others came easier.

As much as opportunities will present themselves, don’t go the other way and take on anything that comes. Don’t get into too much debt. Expand as you can afford it.

So you have made a mistake or a bad decision. Don’t camp around your disappointment and dwell on the negatives. It’s OK, learn the lesson and move on.

When things get tough don’t be quick to give up. Re-evaluate the situation and persevere. I have seen so many people miss opportunities because they gave up too quickly.

As much as possible trial, test and perform things you want to implement to determine how sound they are. You should not expect the staff to do something that you are not prepared to do.

No business can succeed without great staff. Select your staff carefully, train them well and value their contribution. With opportunity, promote them to higher positions.

So what is in store for Katrina? Her answer to this question was that only time would tell. With the support of her husband who undertakes the financial side of the business and her children who are there to help as well, Katrina’s future seems bright. Taking one step at a time she is slowly building the life she loves and always wanted. “Despite our growth, now I can finally take Saturdays off to enjoy and be with my family.” In closing, Katrina was adamant to state that success did not come easy. There were many setbacks and challenges that she and her family had to work through. But lessons were learnt, while she gained wisdom from the experience that has allowed her to develop into the astute and highly successful businesswoman that she is today.

Salon Pacific Beauty Supplies

Other items in our catalogue include:

Why Choose Bio Pacific Skincare?

Bio Pacific Skincare.

SALON PACIFIC BEAUTY SUPPLIES

is excited to announce the introduction of a skincare range to its already extensive range of products, as well as being the exclusive Australian distributor of both Bio Pacific Skincare and Lish Products. They are also distributors of the Young Nails Acrylic & Gel system.

Wax & Wax AccessoriesEquipmentLinenBody Products & BrushesPolishes & PrepsDisposables salon itemsTeeth WhiteningLash Extensions & Perming

If you are looking for a skincare range that works, as well as a company that provides you with great training and support, then look no further than

Bio Pacific is a professional skincare line that delivers “seriously great results” for

your clients. Bio Pacific began in 1980 and is distributed in m a n y c o u n t r i e s globally. The skincare range offer s solutions for all skin types and conditions, including Acne, Pigmentation, Scarring, Eczema, Psoriasis and Aged Skin.

Bio Pacific Skincare is only available in Australia through professional beauty salons or specialist skin centres and is not sold through department stores or pharmacies.

Phone: 1300 651 439

Email: info@salonpacific.com.au Visit www.salonpacific.com.au to view our product selection.

Mention this ad and when you place an order you will receive one of our wonderful Natural Body Brushes absolutely

FREE.

Providers of winning products

APJ 71

If you are performing cosmetic tattooing there is now a new and The Technique inserts colour into the skin at a consistent angle better way of performing your procedures. The Dixon and depth, which leaves more pigment in the skin. This is Technique with sloped needles offers you the freedom to achieved by using both a special needle and a custom- designed perform your Cosmetic Tattooing procedures with greater ease tip. The needles slide through the Stratum Corneum of the and precision. Now you can use one specifically designed epidermis to the top layer of the dermis and deposits pigment in sloped needle for lining, shading, graduated hair strokes, a layer, like a velvet blanket of colour.pointillism, marking, as a single needle and “power tapping” as a hand tool. What makes this needle and technique so incredible is that you

can use the needle not one or two ways, but eight different ways. Imagine working on the Cupid’s bow with a needle stroke that looks like a windshield wiper pattern, yet you can use the same The Dixon Technique is a revolutionary new method founded needle to make a graduated hair stroke. When performing by the President of the American Academy of Micro areola re-pigmentation, colours are delivered smoothly, while Pigmentation, Dr. Linda Dixon, which allows Cosmetic Tattoo your needle will, at the same time, soften scars. Lips are now practitioners to:even coloured with a velvet shimmer-look finish. The Dixon Implant more colour into the skin faster, reducing Technique is an amazingly fast method of depositing pigment discomfort and pain.into the skin.Maintain uniformity by implanting colour into the skin at

the same level, producing a consistent and smooth blanket of colour.Work more easily and achieve better results than standard techniques with curved surfaces.

All this is achievable by using one very clever little 5-slope two-inch needle

The Dixon Technique is an invention that undoubtedly should be considered by all Cosmetic Tattooist practitioners. The Technique is nothing like you’ve ever seen before, and will change the way you view and perform Cosmetic Tattooing into the future.

The Technique offers a more effective way of placing colour into the curves of the skin, taking less time to complete your procedure and resulting in truer colours, and ultimately, happier clients. Additionally, you can achieve beautiful lips, brows, thick, smudgy or smoky eyeliner and nipple areola with less discomfort and trauma to the skin, resulting in less swelling.

What is the Dixon Technique?

Seeing is believing

DIXON TECHNIQUE – Nine Steps to Success for a more beautiful

Cosmetic Tattoo

DIXON TECHNIQUE – Nine Steps to Success for a more beautiful

Cosmetic Tattoo

DIXON TECHNIQUE WORKSHOP

For your Newsletter and information on upcoming Workshop Bookings on the Dixon Technique within Australia contact:

Lyn Quade — Principal AUSTRALIAN INSTITUTE OF INTRADERMAL

MICROPIGMENTATION MEDICAL & COSMETIC TATTOO

Dr. Craig Layt’s Clinic (Plastic Surgeon)Suite 1, AHC House 14 Carrara Street Benowa Q

For further enquiries phone 07 5597 4100 or 0466 111 488

Email info@permanentmakeupaustralia.com.auwww.dixontechnique.com

Invest in your professional development with confidence.

salon business

APJ 72

During the well-known 1996 movie Jerry Maguire actor Tom Cruise uttered the now famous words “Show me the money”. And at present We all know that consumers buy and use skincare. The trouble is that during what are shaping up to be a couple of very tough years for all not a very large amount is purchased through our professional salons business owners, we need to develop new strategies that will have and spas. In fact, recent independent focus group findings conducted more customers showing us their money. As an industry-specific by Covertrue Pty Ltd for a (Indio) leading Australian professional business coach I am currently working with numerous salons and spas skincare company, came up with some not too surprising findings. advising them on ways for their businesses to not only survive, but to “The majority of (Australian) women are still buying skincare from the thrive during these tough times. And so to help you, in this article I sales staff on the department store counters” the report stated. These would like to discuss ways to maximise each customer’s spend. finding make sense when you consider that department store ‘prime

real estate’ is main entry ground floor occupied by cosmetics and skin One of the biggest concerns at present is the fact that in bad economic care. times many of our customers cut back on their number of salon visits. Therefore if we are getting fewer customers through the door we have to make the most out of the ones we do get. Increasing retail sales is one 10% of women were buying from the shopping channelway your salon or spa will be able to weather the financial storm. This 10 % of women were buying from pharmacies or grocery storesmay well mean you need to develop new or additional operational 20% of women were buying over the Internetstrategies and establish an action plan to maximise sales. This would 20% of women were buying from their aesthetician/therapist in need to be supported by specific staff retail and customer service the salontraining. But as previously mentioned the majority are buying from the

sales staff of the department stores

What is your current share of Skincare Retail Sales?

In fact the report statics showed:

Salon Retail Strategies - Show me the Moneyby Caroline Nelson

Salon Retail Strategies - Show me the Moneyby Caroline Nelson

APJ 73

It was reported that many customers go back to the same salesperson Now that you have established that retailing is part of the overall each time – because the salesperson gave excellent customer service business plan you must support your team in all ways possible to reach and had taken the time to develop a relationship. They knew the both the salon and their individual retail targets. This requires salesperson was not a professional aesthetician. However, as they developing your team’s communication and selling skills. While not were seen to be well groomed and informative with their information, everyone on your team will be born sales people, with guidance all can customers were happy to return to them as they felt they were getting learn the fundamentals that will vastly improve their selling abilities. value for money. In addition, they particularly appreciated the gift with purchase available with many of the department store skincare. The key to encouraging your team to retail is to help them build their

confidence and the way to do that is through education – product knowledge, analysing skills and communication and people skills. Product knowledge goes hand in hand with personal experience. Like the department store salespeople all your employees must be using and

1. They give importance to their merchandise by attractively enjoying the benefits of the products they hope to sell. If they know and positioning in the prime location love the products they will be excited to share this information with

2. They employ well-groomed salespeople, whom they then highly their clients and customers. But it goes even further. If you truly want train in the products they will be selling. These salespeople are to build a powerful retailing team you will need to invest in additional then happy to impart this knowledge to customers education and advanced diagnostic tools and methods. Your team not

3. They also train these salespeople in customer service, the art of only needs the underpinning education of skin structure, skin types and good communication and the ways to successful develop an on- conditions, but they need a thorough understanding of skincare product going relationship with their customers ingredients, their benefits and the results the customer can expect.

4. The products stocked are very effectively marketed to the general Knowledge is a very powerful selling tool, and the more knowledge public by way of media release and consumer advertising the better equipped they will be to make the sale.

5. They still very successfully employ the old, but tried and true “gift with purchase” If you have any “I’m an aesthetician not a salesperson” on your team

now is the time to correct this attitude. You simply cannot afford to The free gift bags GWP contain numerous trial-size items of products employ such people in this economy. Your employees must realise that customers are likely to use and benefit by. The department stores from being good at performing treatments is not enough during these tough vast experience have learnt that this is one of the surest ways to times. They must be made aware of how critically important introduce new products to the customer. If the customer likes the “Retailing” is to the success and viability of the business and even their results they will most likely purchase the retail size once the trial size is ongoing employment. used up. So if your skincare supplier offers sample or trial- sizes make good use of them because they do lead to ongoing sales.

Connecting with the customer and offering excellent customer service Department stores are Power Retailers who pay experts to advise them is another key to increasing sales. Any salon that wants to increase of customer buying trends. So if you want to increase your retail sales retail sales must invest in training programs that teach good copy their ideas and transfer them into your business. Start by visiting a communication skills – the reason is that not everyone possesses such department store cosmetic counter and listen and learn. The one thing I skills. But they can be acquired. Listening and understanding the can guarantee is that you will be amazed at just how knowledgeable the customer and then having the ability and expertise to educate him/her salesperson will be about the products they sell. They will know all the about the products is essential to retail sales. The value-added that the incredible benefits of the “super ingredients” each product contains. customer receives is the analysing of their skin and the expert This information will always be delivered in a very enthusiastic almost prescribing skills, which is just not available from over-the-counter zealous manner. And I can tell you from experience that even I with department store skincare products. over 38 years in the aesthetic industry will almost be convinced to buy these wonder creams. Encouraging your aestheticians to upsell related skincare products that

will improve the skin solution outcome not only increases the sale, but The reason is department store salespeople live and breathe their more importantly, services the customers’ needs and also value-adds. products. They are very well groomed because they religiously use the To be sold any skincare the customer must be persuaded of the benefits products they recommend and sell. The department stores realise that if the products will offer, which makes it essential that all staff have a you provide your salespeople with ample products then they will use thorough and complete understanding of the ingredients of each them and will soon become zealous retail ambassadors. In addition, product. observe how product displays are positioned, posters are displayed and even how traffic is directed through the store to funnel customers past Your business can weather the current economic downturn, but it will new product offerings. Make sure you take the best advantage of need the combined effort of your business and leadership skills, the full available retailing salon space, remembering it must be well lit and like commitment of every employee and the complete support of your the department store placed to capture customer attention. skincare suppliers.

For salon staff to successfully retail skincare products they must have a strong belief in the products they recommend. They must be excited by the results the products offer and enthusiastic about the opportunity of improving their customer’s skin 24/7 and not just during salon visits. For this to happen they need to know the products ‘in-side out’ and ‘back-to-front’. No excuses. The first step is to make retail sales part of the job description of each employee – no ifs, buts or maybes. It must be part of the job description that every team member must retail. Ideally before you hire staff this requirement should be clear – for existing staff it must now become the way of the future and one of the ways to beat the recession.

These findings reinforce what I have been saying for years that our largest competitor is the department store and the reasons are:

Training our aestheticians to Communicate in a Meaningful Way

Your Salon Staff must become Skincare Ambassadors Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry specific business coach specialising in helping salon and spa owners to get the very best performance from their teams. Her easy to implement marketing and promotional methods have helped build profitable businesses for hundreds of business owners throughout Australia and New Zealand. She also conducts the renowned Beauty Business Management Masterclasses in capital cities. For further information on how Caroline’s expertise can help grow your bus iness p lease contac t her on 0410 600 440 or www.nelsonbeautybusinessmanagement.com

product releases

APJ 74

Zesty Cellular Repair Serum

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The Zesty Cellular Serum from the Clinical Skincare with A Natural Difference range is the perfect accompaniment to any exfoliation procedure. It is also recommended for home use for your clients as it helps build on treatment results. This repair serum contains wheat and soy protein to protect cells from photo-damage, while boosting collagen to reduce the visible signs of ageing. It soothes and reduces irritation to sensitive skin, and works as an antioxidant to help prevent free radical damage.

Multi-Purpose

Rejuvenating Gel

For enquiries phone Irene 0403 834 400 MisMo Body Care.

MisMo Rejuvenating Gel is an ultra-concentrated bio-peptide serum developed to improve skin tone and elasticity at a cellular level. It contains a high percentage of hyaluronic acid for its super-hydrating properties, MSM to aid in product penetration and Aloe Vera to soothe the skin of any irritations. MisMo Rejuvenating Gel is an excellent conducting gel for micro-currents or photo-rejuvenation treatments, and when combined with MisMo Moistur iser or MisMo Nourishing Cream it offers long-lasting results in skin renewal, enhancing the tone of the skin, while minimising the appearance of lines and wrinkles. MisMo products have been successfully used in medical aesthetic clinics after invasive procedures as well as through skin therapy salons. These quality Australian products rival many products in terms of results, yet are often less than half their cost. MisMo skin-treatment products are affordable and effective and suit all skin types and conditions.

Getting your brand name out there

Additional information and other budget ideas please click on

‘waynes picks’ at www.4cp.com.au or for a free sample email

wayne@4cp.com.au or phone 07 5442 3341

Vogue Plastic Emery Board in clear pouch featuring both fine and coarse sides and features a protective clear tape personalised with your unique branding (name and contact details). This year’s best value promotional gift idea is the $1 pink nail file with personalised print. Fantastic practical gift for your clients, perfect for keeping in their purse or for a marketing campaign to gain new customers. Beauty specialist promo supplier, 4CP, will clearly print your details on 250 or more.

The effects of stress and ‘burn out’ cause skin problems, premature ageing, hormone imbalance, low metabolism and even serious diseases. Nervous exhaustion arises in all cases of magnesium deficiency. As the body consumes more magnesium under stress and our food supply is now magnesium deficient, it’s nearly impossible to get enough with diet alone. Magnesium chloride is the most bio-available form of magnesium and is safely absorbed transdermally. Dissolved Elektra Magnesium Mineral Bath Flakes are ideal for a detox foot soak, body spray/rub, mouthwash and

compress. 500g jar $30.80. For information and orders contact Elektra Life Phone 07 55331088 or visit www.elektralife.com

Magnesium Chloride – the Body’s Power Point

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Violet Glaze is the colour-championing cartoon heroine of Operation Colour, a new collection from China Glaze. Entering the world from her Pink Underground, Violet (code name Agent Lavender) plans to launch a Revolution, one bottle of polish at a time against hue-hating villains – The Removers. They want to wipe away shades while

Violet struggles to set things bright. She sees a Golden Opportunity when a Secret

Peri-Winkle is passed to her letting her know The Removers, the wicked lacquer attackers, are on the move. Code Orange! Time for Violet to get busy with Revolution, Code Orange, Golden Opportunity, Pink Underground, Secret Peri-Winkle and Agent Lavender. China Glaze offers excitement in colours presented in a formula that is Free of DBP, Toluene and added Formaldehyde and containing China Clay as a nail hardener. All China Glaze lacquers are designed for maximum performance, great coverage, while the

220-strand brush gives ease of application. Call Hawley on (02) 8667 1700 or visit www.hawley.net.au.

Natural Compatibles’ makeup compact casing is the ultimate environmentally friendly packaging system for keeping your favourite shadows neat and tidy and all together. You can easily clip in all your NC eye shadows, shadow liners, blush, brow powder, bronzers and even your brushes into one nice easy palette. Natural Compatibles is a versatile range of quality makeup suitable for every woman and every occasion. Their makeup philosophy is based on principles of art in enhancing one’s appearance, so colours don’t change from season to season, although accent colours are introduced. The Natural Compatibles’ technique is called Feature Focussing™ and highlights and defines the two main communicating features of the face - eyes and lips. Natural Compatibles is a trusted quality Australian brand that has been established since 1992. It boasts many makeup awards, due not only to the skills of makeup artists, but also the incredible finishes that truly enhances one’s appearance through the quality of the product that delivers perfection each and every time. Natural Compatibles is a truly professional brand that is only sold through

salons, clinics and spas. Phone 03 9764 0966 or visit Stand 2918, Sydney International Beauty Expo

A world first spray tan from

NAKED TANAll Natural – No Alcohol – No Parabens – No Odours

Phone Naked Tan on

1300 365 683 or visit Stand 3107 at the Sydney

International Beauty Expo.www.nakedtan.com.au

The creator of the world’s first 2-hr wash-n-wear spray tan, Naked Tan spray tanning solution is botanically based with a vanilla coconut aroma. Your clients’ skin will develop a bronzed natural tan that can be washed in two hours, allowing them that extra time to fit in with their busy lifestyle. By providing this service you can build a loyal clientele

with a leading product that is second to none.

New product – launched from

NATURAL COMPATIBLES

2B Bio Serum 02for improved skin oxygenation

Contact Patricia Mangano, Patou Aesthetics Australia Ph: 07 4057 8365.

We all know the importance of oxygen for cell renewal and metabolism as well as for detoxification, and the skin as the largest organ in the body greatly benefits from optimum oxygenation. 2B Bio Serum 02 incorporates Perfluorodecalin – a molecule that raises the level of oxygen in the skin to enhance cellular metabolism and support the integrity of collagen. The results are smoother, firmer-looking skin with a restored, youthful glow.

CHINA GLAZE Operation ColourLet the Revolution Begin

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Zesty Key Lime Masque

CSHE Australia 1800 628 999.

Are you looking for a powerful tool that will give zest to an ageing skin, while also detoxifying and assisting in the cellular renewal process? Look no further than the Zesty Orange De-ageing Range from A Natural Difference. This range offers incredible benefits in cleansing and detoxifying the skin, leaving it looking radiant. The Key Lime Masque also supplies the skin with essential nutrients, and because it hydrates and revitalises the epidermis, signs of ageing are visibly reduced. The Zesty Orange De-ageing Range is available for in-salon use and

homecare from

HAWLEY’S New Instructional DVDsBuild your professional foundation, perfect your technique or upgrade your current skills with the new H a w l e y I n t e r n a t i o n a l advanced tutorial DVDs for Illume Acrylic Enhancement and Hawley UV Gel Systems. Each DVD is a comprehensive step-by-step guide to precise and easy application, under the expert instruction of Paula S h o n e - A d a m s , N a t i o n a l Educator. The DVDs include the correct use of products and product consistency and provide a clear and thorough training guide with tips and advice. The DVDs came about as a result of the need for a tool to further enhance and update skills already learnt from Hawley

training and educational seminars led by Paula Shone-Adams. Hawley will be adding other useful information and tutorials to complement this first edition that can be utilised by nail technicians at all levels and will help further their skills and knowledge in manicure/pedicure. The DVDs are part of the exclusive Professional Illume Kit package or

can be purchased separately. For more information please call Hawley International (02) 8667 1700, email info@hawley.net.au or

visit www.hawley.net.au.

illume Step-by-step

guide for a

professional

finish for

every nail

service

illume Enhancement Manual

To find out more contact Hawley on (02) 8667 1700, email info@hawley.net.au or visit www.hawley.net.au.

Delivering a star treatment to clients means choosing the correct professional products and making sure you know how to get the most from them. Hawley has cleverly put together their new

to ensure all nail professionals

and their staff deliver an exceptional service, every time. Complimentary with the purchase of any of the Illume Enhancement Kits (Professional, Application and Starter Kits), this comprehensive manual is a must-have to help maximise the salon’s bottom line and client satisfaction, while maintaining an overall consistency of protocol and a high level of performance. The manual includes precise explanations and clear visuals that will take you through each step to streamline the service, answer any

questions, while also including professional handcare products.

Introducing Alpha-H’s NEW

Age Delay Intensive Eye & Lip

Treatment Cream Natural Flower Acids extracted from pure crushed Hibiscus Petals gently refine and resurface the eyes and lip contours, minimising the appearance o f c r o w ’s f e e t a n d h y p e r -pigmentation, while promoting cell renewal to give the skin a more lustrous, youthful appearance. It has been proven that Flower Acids increase cell turnover as they contain a unique mixture of organic acids and are substantially more moisturising than Lactic Acid. Age Delay Intensive Eye & Lip Treatment Cream is ideal for skin showing the signs of stress, dehydration or ageing around the eyes and lips. RRP: $69.95 Size: 20ml.

For further information contact

Alpha-H on 1800 659 777 or visit

www.alpha-h.com.

jane iredale launches Cool Beauty

Visit jane iredale at Stand 2508 and 2607 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo, or Stand 5 at the Australian Anti-Ageing & Aesthetic Medicine Conference. Phone 1300 850 008.

Inspired by crystal waters, Cool Beauty’s aqua shades are right on trend with international runway makeup, as seen on the catwalk for Gucci SS09. Azure-hued eye shadows and uplifting colours are complemented by delicate pink and nude lips for a soft complexion reminiscent of summer beach days and balmy breezes. With jane iredale’s Cool Beauty colour collection there’s no need to compromise health for beauty. Containing natural ingredients, including a highly sophisticated blend of minerals and pigments that deliver on beauty, while promoting gorgeous, glowing skin. Eyeshadows are enriched with algae extracts to soothe and hydrate delicate skin, while rice starch ensures skin is shine-free all day. The collection also includes Limited Edition Mini-Matte Finish Powder and Azure PurePressed Triple Eye Shadow. Aquamarine 24-Karat Gold Dust – a delicate shimmer powder using mica to make eyes sparkle. Pinot Noir Liquid EyeLiner with dense, bright pigments. Finish off with either Erin & Julia PureMoist LipColour - fortified with jojoba and grape seed extracts to

soothe and condition the lips, and edible zinc for SPF protection.

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SPICE up your spa menu

with GERMAINE de

CAPUCCINI

Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300 432 100 or visit

www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au

If you are looking to spice up your spa menu then look no further than Germaine de Capuccini. Offering exotic treatments that will transport your clients to a place of pure bliss. These include Exotic Ceylon Shell Massage, Mysterious Turkish Massage with silk foulard, or Majestic Golden Body Treatment with Thai Pinda massage that will leave your clients totally relaxed at a very deep level. The Exotic Ceylon Shell Massage delivers a therapeutic heat, which is slowly released through heated shells for a completely new body experience. Carried out with a cinnamon delight massage oil, and a combination of massage shells, this multi-sensory therapy works on energy points to escort the body into a deep state of relaxation. Mysterious Turkish Massage with a Silk Foulard alleviates stress, eases aching muscles and revives the senses with this exclusive body treatment. The treatment starts with a mist of teak in the air and a relaxing starting ritual with saffron massage oil. The therapist then moves from head to toe stretching each muscle with a three-metre silk sheet before delivering an enjoyable deep massage with a unique massage stick on the back, neck and shoulders. These and other unique treatments from Germaine de Capuccini will make your treatments the talk of the town.

CALMITUDE – the answer to sensitive

and irritated skin

Call ABSOLUTE SPA on 03 9464 4466 for Calmitude and other h i g h l y e f f e c t i v e product formulations from Bioelements.

Did you know that when sensitive skin becomes irritated, often in the deeper layers of the skin, invisible inflammation can set in, encouraging the production of free radicals that cause wrinkles and skin-ageing? That is why sensitive and inflamed skin conditions often age more rapidly. It is also a statistical fact that over 60 per cent of adults claim they have sensitive skin. This is often due to genetics, lifestyle or diet as well as the use of over-aggressive exfoliators that can trigger sensitivity. Bioelements has introduced a highly effective sensitive skin line – Calmitude that includes a Sensitive Skin Moisturiser and Hydrating Solution, to complement their ever-popular Sensitive Skin Cleanser. Both are formulated with a biologically advanced blend of desensitising extracts, including anti-inflammatory herbs and antioxidants. The Calmitude Hydrating Solution contains ultra-calming white tea and liquorice root extract and will instantly relieve dehydration, soothe and calm the skin and protect against environmental irritations. The formula also contains Olive Oil, which is loaded with polyphenols – natural antioxidants that can help heal and soothe the skin, even after too much sun exposure. Calmitude Sensitive Skin Moisturiser will further support the skin, increase hydration and calm irritations, reducing redness and sensitivity, while strengthening the skin’s

protective barrier.

Perfect Toenails

The Salons Group 1800 655 814.

Feet can sometimes be ugly, but now with DESIGNER TOENAILS you can enhance the appearance not only of your client’s face, but also of their feet and toenails. With Designer Toenails they will be impressed at how wonderful their feet can look. Designer Toenails are so easy to use, and, are entirely natural looking. Your clients will love this thin, comfortable product. Professional-strength nails that last up to two weeks and come in a wide range of styles, from beautiful, glossy colours to glitter, pink, white and floral, geometric and star designs. The are so beautiful and just look like natural nails. Designer

Toenails are available through Designs can also be viewed

and purchased on line at www.salonsgroup.com Distributor and Retailer enquiries are welcomed.

®PurePressed Base

Contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008

www.janeiredale.com

Pioneering mineral makeup brand jane iredale has launched a new environmentally friendly compact for their award-winning PurePressed Base mineral foundation. With almost 540,000 units sold in the US alone each year, the move to a ‘green’ compact will see the makeup brand marry its passion for natural skin nurturing

mineral cosmetics with an ongoing commitment to eco-friendly production practices. After

experimenting with different materials, jane iredale are converting to anodised aluminium. Anodised aluminium has been called the ‘green’, or environmentally friendly finish, as the anodising process

releases few toxins into the environment, uses almost no heavy metals, and uses

chemicals and metals that are recycled easily and non-toxic. Additionally, the compact

clamshells will be bar coded with all product detail printed on the outer

surface, further eliminating the need for additional print materials.

APJ 78

™Dot the i

Contact Margifox Distributors Phone 1300 850 008.

We’ve all been there. Maybe it was a late night at the office, or partying until the wee hours of the morning, or getting caught in the rain. In any case, panda eyes are not a good look! With jane iredale’s newest beauty breakthrough, you can quickly remove unsightly smudges. Dot the i is a

handy pack of pre-measured, one-time-use eye makeup remover swabs containing a gentle botanical formula that is alcohol-free

and safe for contact lens wearers and sensitive eyes. Containing lavender, flower water, algae extracts, aloe

leaf extract, oat kernel extract, radish root extract and amino acids, Dot the i is ideal for home,

travel or to throw in your purse – no spills and no mess.

Ionzyme C-Quence gains Swiss Vitamin Certification

Environ Skin Care has been leading the way in advanced vitamin skin therapy for almost two decades and now has the official tick of approval, receiving an endorsement from the Swiss Vitamin Institute. The most luxurious of the range, the Ionzyme C-Quence Gels now carry the Swiss Vitamin Institute logo and is the first skincare range in its native country of South Africa to do so. Founded in 1931, the Lausanne-based Institute was established to research the ‘normal’ vitamin content requirements in order to maintain healthy levels in the body, whether it be skin, body functioning, food or skincare. The Ionzyme C-Quence Gels were tested to verify that they contain the vitamin strength and therefore guarantee the active efficacy specified by Environ Skin Care. The Environ C-Quence range includes Gels (in varying strengths),

Crème, Toner and Eye Gel. Contact Margifox Distributors Phone 1300 850 008.

APJ 79

SYNERGYAGE Treatment products to support

photo-rejuvenation treatments

Contact Germaine de Capuccini on 1300

432 100 or visit www.germaine-de-capuccini.com.au

Germaine de Capuccini, a pioneer in photo-rejuvenat ing t reatments , combines the most modern technology of photo-rejuvenating equipment with an exclusive line of skincare treatments called SYNERGYAGE. Synergyage products consist of a line of advanced formulations development to work synergistically with photo-rejuvenating techniques to achieve maximum results. Synergyage will work to optimise and accelerate the results obtained with a skin-rejuvenating process, helping the skin to recover more rapidly after the treatment. Synergyage products not only will provide nourishment and essential ingredients for the skin, but will also help to soothe, hydrate, protect and

regenerate it after the treatment. The line contains lupeol, tetrapeptides, hyaluronic acid and essential vitamins in a multilamellar ceramide complex. They erase the appearance of wrinkles, provide firmness and generally improve the look and

quality of the skin.

Why spoil the wonderful ambience you have created in your salon or spa through the use of candles that emit toxic fumes? Now with Exquisite Ambience Candles you can be assured of 100 per cent pure soy candles that last twice as long as standard candles and are available in beautiful natural aromas for a lingering nostalgia. Not only are they great for your salon or spa, but they also make a wonderful retail item that clients can take home to recapture your signature experience. Available in a variety of aromas, the latest to be included in the collection is Zesty Lime – a fresh lime aroma that is uplifting. These candles are available in several sizes and shapes including tea lights. Other aromas include Bulgarian

Rose, Crème Brulee, Vanilla, Honeysuckle, Frangipani, Mango and Melon, Mocha and Chocolate. Exquisite Ambience Candles are manufactured exclusively for salon and spas and for a small cost you can include your own label and contact details, making them another excellent marketing tool with a retail margin of 80-100 per cent.

Phone 07 5593 0360 for further details.

FASHION NAILS – the easy

way to increase your profits

The Salons Group 1800 655 814.

Not everyone wants to incur the long-time commitment of acrylic or gel nails. But everyone has a moment or a special event when they need to look their very best. This is where FASHION NAILS offer a fashionable, fuss-free nail enhancement as a perfect complement without consuming too much time. Fashion Nails are a desirable accessory for Bridal parties, Birthdays, Debutantes balls – in fact, any special occasions. To add dollars to your bottom line you need to be offering popular services that can be completed quickly and can complement other services such as facial treatments, Make-up and

Hairdressing. FASHION NAILS are odour free and require no filing and are considered the most profitable nail enhancement system on the market. The cost for a complete set of nails is approximately $3 fitted, or, retail the packs for a healthy profit margin. FASHION NAILS offer a wide selection of pink and white, and floral airbrushed designs in economical 120pc pack sizes. A perfect, temporary, full coverage nails

system. Fashion Nails are available through Designs can be viewed

and purchased online at www.salonsgroup.com Distributor and Retailer enquiries are welcomed.

Maintaining a

clean

environment

For further information contact 07 5593 0360.

Respiratory Blend is a special essential oil blend formulated by AromaNexus exclusively for salon and spas. It contains a unique blend of several Eucalyptus oils, Peppermint Mitchum, Tea Tree, Organic French Lavender and Geranium oils that offer protection against

bacteria and viruses when vaporised, diffused or added to your essential oil burner. Respiratory Blend is a very pleasant-smelling oil and can be used as a full-body massage to further support the immune system. It can also offer relief for sinus congestion or for individuals who are allergy-prone. Respiratory Blend can also be inhaled prior to a treatment, included in a sauna or a Far infrared detox box to assist with respiratory ease, and is also a wonderful travel companion for those who fly regularly to protect them from the effects of environmental pollution.

Enjoy the purity

and ambience of

100% Soy Candles

APJ 80

Belmacil - Luscious lash tints with a marvellous marginBelmacil will launch its new look and colours this year at the Sydney International Beauty Expo. Now with 11 rich, luxurious colours in the range to choose from – Black, Blue Black, Dark Brown, Light Brown, Honey Brown, Graphite, Blue, Violet, Blonde and two NEW exciting colours – Red and Green. Red is great for clients that have auburn, burgundy or any other shades of red-brown hair. You can tint the eyebrows with Belmacil Red to achieve the perfect look for your client, or mix with a little brown if desired, to customise to your client’s individual needs. Green is an exciting new colour that they have had many requests for. This colour looks great on blondes, and people with blue, green or brown eyes. You can always mix in a little Belmacil black to add more definition with a green shimmer for your clients with darker hair. You may notice that there are some changes to the way Belmacil looks when it is mixed and processed, however, you can still expect the same excellent results that Belmacil has always delivered. Belmacil is a superior tint for professional use only. Its unique Swiss formula gives you more colour depth and longer-lasting results, while the new larger tubes with an incredible 180 applications per tube are

now more profitable than ever. Ex-Import Niche Products Ph: 07 5576 6388 or email: info@belmacil.com web: www.belmacil.com

For fast application, odour-free, strong and long-lasting GO30 Prescription Nails offers a full professional alternative to acrylic, gel or wraps. Prescription Nails are the ultimate in nail enhancements and are supplied exclusively to salons and technicians who have joined the GO30

t r a i n i n g p r o g r a m . For more i n f o r m a t i o n a b o u t t h i s specialised product, visit www.go30nails.com to view the FREE LOOK DVD or phone The Salons Group 1800 6 5 5 8 1 4 . D i s t r i b u t i o n restrictions apply.

The Ultrasonic Anion Aroma Diffuser is the ultimate environmentally friendly item to include in your treatment rooms, as well as retail it to your clients. It offers five incredible functions including: Aroma Diffuser – Advanced ultrasonic waves diffuse water with essential oils into tiny molecules and produce a very fine, delicate mist releasing the essential oils in their purest form to enhance their aromatherapy properties. As a Purifier/Ioniser it improves air quality through the release of Anions, which can remove harmful substances that contribute to allergies. Humidifier – through ultrasonic waves it enhances necessary air moisture levels to combat the drying effects on the skin from airconditioning. Switch the lights off in your treatment room and allow the Aroma Diffuser to create a soothing and relaxing Night Lamp effect to further enhance your client’s treatment experience. Aroma Diffuser is capable of servicing up to 50 square metres and also comes with a cut-off safety feature when it runs out of water. Boutique essentials oils to be used with it are also

available. For further information contact Athena Zolis at Essentials in-a-box, the

sole agents for Ultrasonic Anion Aroma Diffuser, mobile: 0433 536 669 Ph: 03 9639 1999 or visit www.in-a-box.com.au. Visit stand No. 3604 at the Sydney International Beauty Expo to view these products.

AVST™ - the

advanced

antioxidant

and Vitamin A

formulation

For more information contact Margifox Distributors 1300 850 008 or visit

www.margifox.com.au

The Environ AVST™ range utilises advanced technology to bring you the cosmetic of the future. Adopting a scientific approach, the AVST™ formula recognises the normal physiology of skin as the gateway for encouraging normal skin-cell behaviour. The combination of Vitamin A, powerful antioxidants and flavonoids helps to restore skin cells for a more youthful-looking complexion with a smoother texture and a radiant, healthy glow. “Environ AVST (Advanced Vitamin Skin Therapy) has without doubt become the gold standard for scientific skincare in the new millennium, because it addresses the critical factors in skin-cell communication, repair, rejuvenation and damage prevention,” confirms Ernst Eiselen, Medical Advisor, Environ Skin Care. Environ AVST™ comes in a 50ml airless pump dispenser. Recommended retail prices start at

$75.

Ultrasonic Anion Aroma Diffuser5-in-1 Fuctions

Ultrasonic Anion Aroma Diffuser5-in-1 Fuctions

GO 30 – the ultimate

Prescription Nails

Improve oxygen levels in the skin for a

more youthful appearance - guaranteed

Contact Patricia Mangano, Patou A e s t h e t i c s Australia Ph: 07 4057 8365.

As the winter months are upon us skin can exhibit signs of dullness, with a lack of vitality and looks pale, tired and lifeless. One process that can increase the skin’s vitality is oxygenation. New skincare technology has discovered three active ingredients that offer a breakthrough to improve skin oxygenation levels. 2B Bio Oxygel is a wonderful gel that contains Sepicalm – a soothing lipoamino complex enriched with magnesium and potassium to defend the skin from environmental damage. Perfluorodecalin is one of the first cosmeceutical molecules to be used in cosmetic formulations. It is not

a drug, but a physical carrier of gases, notably oxygen and carbon dioxide. It copies the natural respiration of our cells and mimics the function of haemoglobin and brings oxygen into the cells. Once the cells have been oxygenated cellular metabolism is stimulated, collagen production is supported and hydration levels in the skin are optimised. The result is smoother and firmer skin. This gentle hydrating gel can be used to energise the skin and restore its youthful appearance. Several companies boast of oxygen-enhancing ingredients, but 2B Bio Oxygel has the science to prove it.

APJ 81

With sweeping necklines continuing to be in vogue there has never been a more important time to address your clients’ neck and decolletage for any anti-ageing concerns. The delicate skin of this area needs extra care. Bioelements recognises these special needs and have formulated V-Neck Smoothing Crème to help offer the skin extra support. With daily use of V-Neck Smoothing Crème you will visibly reduce the appearance of neck wrinkles, fade the look of unsightly freckles caused by the sun and tone and improve skin texture. Normal ageing, sun exposure and other environmental assaults can cause severe dehydration, pigmentation and vascular conditions such as couperose on the neck and decolletage areas. Start repairing these visible problems now with V-Neck Smoothing Creme, a totally non-greasy formula fuelled with potent anti-wrinkle peptides, moisturising hyaluronic acid and a powerful natural

pigmentation lightener. Call ABSOLUTE SPA on 03 9464 4466 for further details and to learn more how Bioelements can offer you the results you are looking form.

Livingstone’s Disposable Latex,

Vinyl & Nitrile Gloves

For a personalised quote

contact Livingstone International on 1300 557

557, email beauty@livingstone.com.au or visit

www.livingstone.com.au.

Livingstone International is a manufacturer and distributor of high-quality, cost-affordable disposable gloves with more than 24 years of experience. Latex gloves are made of natural rubber, extremely lightweight and have excellent tactile sensitivity. Vinyl gloves are made from non-latex material and are skin friendly. Nitrile gloves are four times stronger than latex and vinyl and are skin friendly. All gloves are available as Powder

Free and Low Powdered.

MisMo is an Australian niche brand known as the special is ts of niche quality skincare products, developed to offer the very best results in skin treatments. One example is the MisMo A-C-E Vitamin Serum that fortifies the skin with high l e v e l s o f e s s e n t i a l antioxidants for improved skin texture and tone, as well as to support the integrity of collagen. Available only to salons and aesthetic medical clinics, the MisMo A-C-E Vitamin Serum has been successfully used as a treatment serum. Great results have also been achieved when just one pump is added to a facial treatment mask for additional vitamin and anti-oxidant benefits. Containing high-quality Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate (vitamin C), Retinyl Palmitate (vitamin A) and Vitamin E, MisMo A-C-E Serum is a powerful antioxidant serum, which works to reverse the appearance of ageing skin as well as protect against further sun damage. This particular type of Vitamin C has excellent penetration capabilities so results are evident very quickly. The formulation is a light oil serum, which is stable for 12-18 months. Being Australian made it is highly affordable – incredible value at

$39.00 for 55mls.

Vitamin

For enquiries phone Irene 0403 834 400 MisMo Body Care.

Antioxidant A-C-E

Vitamin Serum

V-Neck Smoothing Crème for the perfect decolletage

APJ 82

with their life. But while the cancer may Breast cancer affects women of all ages have been treated, these women will go and some may lose one or both breasts to home to face their life and their the disease. While doctors perform confronting mirrors. This is where we excellent surgery and can give back a can offer more to make the breast look regular shape to the breast by way of more natural.prosthesis or reconstruction, there is still

something missing – an areola and Some doctors offer a new look nipple nipple. To help with the full recovery and areola through skin reconstruction from breast cancer cosmetic tattooing taken from other areas of the body. This offers some incredible solutions if generally gives a better appearance, but skilfully performed. does take more time in surgery, and the skin itself is not coloured. Clients and I have been in the beauty industry as both their families, naturally, have many owner of a registered college and a salon questions about cosmetic tattooing of an owner and have been teaching cosmetic areola and nipple. Some I will answer tattoo for ten years. My specialty is now here.working with doctors, nurses and

therapists in Australia and New Zealand, teaching them the art of creating the

It is performed generally 12 weeks after natural-looking breast. There are many surgery in two sittings, each taking cases we come across of women affected approximately one hour and performed by breast cancer and how we can offer a four weeks apart.happy ending to their story when they

finally see themselves in the mirror. But can just colour and three-dimensional art

A pigment is applied with small needles change a woman’s life for the better? The to implant colour 1.5 millimetres under answer to this question is a definite YES, the skin into the dermis. The pigments and because of this I feel this is the most are very safe, if they have been sourced rewarding work I could ever do. from a reputable supplier. Check with APAN or your Association for We recognise that doctors do great work recommendations and guidelines.with breast reconstruction, but after this

they generally leave the patient to get on

How is the procedure achieved?

How is the colour put in the skin?

Bring Colour back to Women’s livesby Donna Moody-Martin

cosmetic tattoo

Before

After

APJ 83

If you are performing this procedure it is also recommended that you show your client ‘before and after’ photos of your work. I use pigments that I import from USA and also sell to many therapists in Australia and New Zealand. They have been used for many years in hospitals in Australia for marking the skin for radiotherapy patients.

After the first treatment, the colour will appear darker than the required colour. This will fade within one to four weeks. Often the therapist will work only on the areola before starting the nipple area.

The therapist can mix a wide variety of colours, although there are areola premix colours available. If only one breast is being treated the colour will be matched as close as possible to the existing good breast. For clients who have more information presented to them before their mastectomy, a photo can be taken before surgery showing both the colour and shape of their existing areola and nipple so that the Some doctors perform this treatment under therapist can replicate it exactly to how it Medicare. Therapists’ charges usually range from was pre-surgery. This is a great option. $400 to $600. Unfortunately, when women are faced with making major medical decisions and facing As many patients who have been afflicted from the ‘life or death’ prospect of cancer it is a breast cancer surgery will testify, cosmetic tattoo decision that can be overlooked. This is has helped to restore their dignity to an otherwise where networking and interfacing with a deforming experience. surgeon is beneficial as you can offer your services and request a photo pre-surgery so that you can re-create the illusion of a nipple and areola that is as close as possible to the patient’s original condition.

After all the painful surgery the last thing a client wants is more pain. For most patients there are no nerve endings left in the new breast so there is no feeling at all. For the few that have some feeling left, a topical anaesthetic is used to numb the area.

Generally, these pigments, when used on the body (unlike the face), will stay permanently.

Immediately after the procedure the therapist is required to cover the area with a post-tattoo cream and a light gauze covering. Clients are given home-care guidelines, which require that the cream is lightly placed over the tattooed area for up to three times a day. The gauze is kept on for three days and changed daily after showering. The cream can then be used for a further four days to allow for good healing and colour retention.

How will it look between ‘touch-up’ visits?

How does the therapist know what colour to use?

How much will this procedure cost?

Donna Moody-Martin as the principal of a government approved Beauty Therapy college introduced cosmetic tattoo as an accredited course to the Diploma of Beauty Therapy curriculum. This was in the late 1990s. Later

Will it hurt? she sold the college, choosing to concentrate on Cosmetic Tattoo training. She continued her own training in Advanced Cosmetic Tattoo procedures in the USA from 1995 to 1998. She is currently working with doctors and their patients and also delivers training for those who wish to qualify as Cosmetic Tattooists. She continually updates her training in America

How long will the colour last? each year working in paramedical (cancer patients, burns victims, scar re-colouring). She is a member of the American Society of Permanent Cosmetic Professionals, and President of the Australasian Association of

How do I look after my tattooed breasts? Cosmetic Tattoo/Micro-pigmentat ion Therapists. Donna Moody-Martin runs regular training in this field, and offers

mastectomy clients the option of a free treatment in a class situation or having her work on them as a private patient. For further information and course dates, contact 1800 007 191.

After

Before

apan facilities

APJ 84

Perhaps you are a salon owner and would like recommendations on how to reward In this section you can discuss anything your staff or motivate them to perform regarding client care and concerns. better. Why not ask if other managers have successful strategies that they would be happy to share with you? You are looking for business growth ideas and

Wouldn’t you like to be able to share your strategies and would like feedback from thoughts and concerns with other like-minded others. Why not use this post to communicate individuals or experts who could share with You are interested in education and would like your wishes? It includes the following boards:you how they succeeded in areas you are still to let APAN know of topics you would like struggling with or working through? Well, them to consider when planning a seminar. now you can. Why not put forward your recommendations

on this page? Don’t forget to state the State In this day and age technology had decreased you are from. If you would like for someone distances and we have become a virtual global to call you, leave them a message. This section can involve the use of equipment community not only to gain recreational or accessing feedback from others for a information, but also to extend our device you wish to purchase. It includes the knowledge. This is why APAN has following boards:introduced the APAN NETWORK CENTRE The APAN Network Centre is made up of available through the APAN website Categories, boards within each category, and www.apanetwork.com. topics posted by individuals on each board. As

the APAN Network Centre grows more of The objective of the APAN NETWORK each of the above will be added. CENTRE is to allow members who would like to get feedback on specific topics to do so. We therefore encourage all our members to explore this facility and present or post questions, information and topics that you On the APAN NETWORK FORUM the would like others to share with you their following categories are available for you to knowledge and experiences. Our intention is access and post messages on:to promote this forum and encourage the You are looking for a reputable supplier of a industry to interact and use it for their full particular product, but can’t find it. Why not advantage, thus making it a valuable resource In this section you can inform the ask for this information here?for gaining information or feedback from organisation of areas you would like to see others. developed and your recommendations. It

includes the following sub sections or This is the area for students to get together and “boards”: discuss anything of interest

The APAN NETWORK CENTRE is open You may have an opinion on something and for all to view but only APAN members can would like to see what others think? This post on it. When you post you either start a could involve a treatment or a product. It may new topic under the appropriate category and be on a piece of equipment. What about board or else reply to someone else's topic.treating a particular skin condition that you Feel free to talk about anything and would like others to comment on and share everything in this board that is not covered with you any successes they have had with a elsewhere. After you join APAN you will be sent an email similar situation. with your username and password and a link

to the APAN Network Centre that you will This is where you discuss and ask general need to click on to confirm. Simply click on

You may not want to ask a question, but to put questions regarding staffing issues and the link and go to the APAN NETWORK forward a statement of something new you concerns. It includes the following CENTRE, put your password in and you are wish to develop and would like to attract boards: ready to post. If you can access the Internet others who may be interested in getting from you mobile phone then you can use it to involved. post and read on the forum.

You are looking for staff and want a particular kind of person. Why not place this information on the APAN Network Forum Looking for a new staff member? Why not let and see who will respond? us know what kind of person you are looking

for.

CLIENT ISSUES

BUSINESS ISSUES

4. Seminars/Suggestions to APAN

General QuestionsNetworking IdeasGovernment Regulations

PRACTITIONER TECHNICAL ISSUES

STRUCTURE OF THE APAN NETWORK CENTRE

General IssuesSkin Care IngredientsSkin NutritionLaser Devices

If you want a Slimming Methodologiesspecific category or board added please Anti-Ageing External Issuesemail us. Anti-Ageing Internal Issues

Skin Rejuvenation IssuesWHAT IS CURRENTLY AVAILABLE Cosmetic Tattoo Issues

IPL Issues

SUPPLIER INFORMATION

APAN DEVELOPMENT IDEAS

STUDENT AREA

Here are some suggestions of what you could do on the APAN Network Centre: New APAN Development Announcements

Members' Support Ideas WHO CAN USE IT1. Ask a question General Ideas

Seminar Topics

GENERAL ISSUES (not covered elsewhere)

HOW TO ACCESS THE SITE

STAFFING ISSUES2. Put forward a statement

General QuestionsStaff AgreementsStaff Motivation and Rewards

3. Find Staff Staff Training

EMPLOYMENT OPPORTUNITIESAPAN are looking for individuals to administrate the different boards, so if you are keen, let us know and we can give you more information about what is involved.

Blue Skies have arrivedgaining valuable information through the national

APAN NETWORK CENTRE

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The BEAUTY of PRby Wendy Neeley

public relations

APJ 86

Public Relations is a valuable tool that can enhance a business, By this I mean:however the dynamics that govern how it works are often misunderstood. Wendy Neely is one of the most experienced Public Relations professionals specialising in the very competitive business of beauty for over 20 years. She has excellent relationships with most of the beauty editors in both consumer magazines as well as trade publications and knows how to get the best results. In this article she presents valuable information as to how PR works and how to get the best from this service.

In return for your efforts:

You have paid attention and watched the marketplace

You are continually growing your business and are passionate about it

You have gotten out of your safety zone (your premises, office or desk) and met with potential new clients to offer them solutions

You are known in the industry. Others respect you, your company and your products.

It is also important that you know who your competitors are and you I’d say the closest thing that any company (and here I am speaking to make a point to visit their salons to see what they are doing. suppliers) can get to strong, personal-type referrals and enhanced credibility is press coverage – print or on-line. Why? Because readers place their trust in the publication they are reading, or the site they are You have secured new accounts (salons, spas, clinics, etc) where viewing. They have respect for the editor or the journalist and they your products and services are availabletake what she is saying as her personal recommendation. Imagine if You roll up your sleeves and get into it your company could receive this type of coverage in magazines,

You conduct workshops and seminars to extend your network and newspapers, online and trade journals.

leverage yourself as an expert in your field

You are continually bringing new issues to the beauty table such as A very important strategic weapon, public relations (PR) can generate

cutting edge technology and advanced formulations awareness for your services and products that can make clients or

And, no doubt you have advertised many of your products or consumers choose you over your competitor. services in trade journals, your local newspaper or possibly mainstream media (magazines). PR is a cost-effective and highly visible tool, which can help lay a

foundation for companies and build on future sales. But the truth is So now that you have gone this far, why stop? You have contributed so unfortunately, it is more often than not a misunderstood and a total much and put in a lot of effort to get where you are today. PR can help unknown process to many who fail to recognise its benefits. PR plays you continue to increase and move further, through an increase in a key role and underpins marketing, creating greater consumer consumer awareness of your brand. This will ultimately lead to greater visibility and awareness for your brand and your company. PR is based consumer demand of your products and the growth of your business. on product knowledge, honesty, consistency, patience and persistence.

Here are a few thoughts and realistic approaches to keep in mind when If you have been thinking about the positives of PR then you have, or making decisions, so you can successfully embark on the PR process, probably are taking, bite-sized steps and have already kick-started the because the fact is, you have everything to gain, so allow someone else process yourself without being aware. with expertise in this area to steer you.

ADVERTISING VS PR

WEBSITE

THE VALUE AND WORTH OF PR

BE REALISTIC IN YOUR EXPECTATIONS

SALONS/CLINICS/SPAS

YOUR PR PERSON/PUBLICIST

PLACEMENT POSSIBILITIES

HOW YOU CAN ASSIST THE PROCESS

Wendy Neely is the Managing Director of NonStopPR. She has over 20 years’ experience as a TIME IS OF THE ESSENCEPublic Relations professional and specialises in the beauty industry. She has excellent connections with over 30 magazine editors, newspapers and journalists. Nonstoppr is based in Sydney, however, Wendy offers her services in any State. If you would like to speak to Wendy about your PR needs you can contact her on Ph: 02 9684 6729 or 0438 911 017. Email: nonstoppr@hotkey.net.au.

can make all the difference as to whether your story or products are accepted. Remember that when an editor is on deadline there are no Advertising and PR traditionally go hand-in-hand, as you can’t have a excuses. She is under pressure and you cannot afford to let her down.publication without advertising support. To break it down, advertising

is about selling, while PR is about telling. However, as I’ve already mentioned, whenever your products or services are featured in an

In today’s market a website will play a critical role in allowing the article this has the benefit of letting your readers know that the editor or media to gather information about you. Do you have one? Can journalist as an independent yet trusted person, has given their sincere potential clients and consumers find you easily on the net? Is it recommendation.updated regularly? Can they contact you through your website? Do you have solid information about your products and your services?

In putting PR into real value terms, here is an example. Your product or In addition, there is a whole host of social media available such as services receive a quarter page exposure in a national consumer blogs, tweets, etc. The Internet has opened up a brand new world for magazine the equivalent of which, in dollar value, is approximately business owners. $15,000. However, your quarter-page is actually worth three times

this value in editorial terms, because the editor has personally endorsed PR can benefit all companies (suppliers) in raising their profile, and it it. This is something money cannot buy. An ad cannot buy this type of is even more important than ever in these slower economic times. An endorsement for you, your product or your company.article on your service (treatment) or a mention of your products in the media can get the phone ringing and create a lot of business. This flows on to your individual clients – your salons, spas or clinics – in terms of A one-off PR feature does not work, even if you believe it is something up-sell and increased product purchases and bookings for services. very relevant and so special and/or for a specific time of year, for

example, your involvement with, say, Breast Cancer month. Now you are ready to increase your visibility and awareness and further build an image for your company, it’s time to talk to a PR Be patient. PR takes time to work. It is never complete, but it is always consultant or an agency and let them handle it and contribute their evolving. It’s a long-term game. It takes multiple hits and not always expertise. Whichever way you choose to move ahead (agency or on the same subject. Do not expect to see results overnight, next week individual) it is an exciting, fun and rewarding experience to be or next month. It is an on-going process, just like a constantly dripping involved in driving the PR effort. tap that eventually fills the bucket one drop at a time. A single press

release does not do the job (granted it would be fabulous, but it is extremely rare).

So you are a salon owner or a spa. How can you benefit from PR services? A PR person can help you put a laser-beam focus on your business and implement a plan for greater consumer visibility, like When choosing your PR person it is not all about flashy offices and brainstorming some new headlines. You are allowed to be quirky and latest equipment. It is the person who has the connections and has the a little bold when thinking about ways to out-rival your competitors. best possible relationship and influence with the media that will get the Get involved locally or become community-spirited. Have you got a job done. Publicity deals with the media, which is a fiercely special story to tell that your PR person can promote on your behalf to competitive arena and it often takes many years to develop a strong the media? Are you ahead of the rest with the latest and greatest bond with the key decision-makers. It is, therefore, the person who technology? How do you reward clients? Do you have a loyalty talks with Australia’s top beauty editors and continually pushes hard on scheme happening? Positioning your business as offering unique your behalf who will be the best person for you. She will keep services and extra special or small indulgences is an advantage. How knocking at the door until someone answers.well do you know your clients? Are you giving them what they want? Remember that consumers will spend with the right salon, spa or clinic if they believe they are getting the very best.While your PR person is consistently talking to beauty editors and

writers, pitching and suggesting angles for your products and services, A priority should be retaining clients. Once you have loyal clients you updating them on new breakthroughs and story possibilities then don’t want to lose them. Make sure they have a positive experience following up consistently and with determination, the final decision is today and you can be sure they will remember you tomorrow. out of the PR person’s hands. Therefore it is totally unrealistic to expect Encourage them to refer others to you and reward them for doing it. a 100 per cent pickup rate.

There are many communication tools on offer, such as regular newsletters, your website, email and SMS alerts to clients. From a PR The best way you can assist your PR person is to present your perspective, an expert can prepare your press releases and get you information and products in a professional manner, ensuring you are together with the local media. On your part you should be running giving them the necessary tools. These include products (never sample regular promotions and built-in added value for services. sizes), high resolution images, bags, product brochures and folders.

Consider in a week that at least 250 products cross a beauty editor’s desk. She is inundated with companies attempting to grab her attention. How will your products stand out from the crowd? Presentation, therefore, is everything.

Be ready to respond to any requests and make sure you deliver what is needed on time. In the media world, things can change in the blink of an eye due to many factors. Often features are brought forward at the last minute, product shoots are rescheduled without much notice or a story takes a different slant. Be prepared and ready to act on these changes immediately. Have a contact available in your office that can fulfil all PR requests in a timely manner. A few hours or a day’s delay

APJ 87

finances

APJ 88

therefore with cash flows and eventually the bottom line of their As a self-employed small businessperson your needs are more varied

business. You don’t have to be a financial genius (there are plenty of and greater than those of an employee. You might not consider it so,

those out there), you just need to ask around and get some opinion, but it is the case. Being a small business owner/operator you are

preferably from friends and family, but ultimately, you need to seek constantly focused on outward factors, such as how you can bring more

professional help in many layers.business to your door through product and treatment sales. However,

have you thought about alternatives in financing and finance

methodology that can add to your bottom line? Problems can often simply creep up on you. Such as not getting your

tax return completed on time. This can result in not allowing you to

borrow properly or have the proper credit requirements in place when

needed.Many self-employed people are simply too busy to take the time to

Not having the proper personal or business understand the basics, and rather less the details of

insurances can often lead to problems in finance, and understandably so, as they are too

your business. Let’s say you had a busy with the job at hand – running their

medical problem and need 3-6 months off business. They don’t see the overall

work, how do the bills get paid if you don’t picture or relationship from a micro level

have proper income protection insurance? of money, credit and finances.

Too many different debts with interest rates Often business people don’t ask

can cause cash-flow problems and also rob themselves – what is credit and

you of the ability to use credit properly and money? What are the sources of

when you require it. At worst, it could credit and money? How can I

cause catastrophic credit problems and best use credit and money? Who

even bankruptcy. One of the biggest killers can I talk to about these things?

in business cycles is the burden of the How does one affect the other?

additional interest from facilities that you This can often lead to there being

should really have in reserve. That burden can many and varied problems with

be thousands of dollars, if not tens of thousands of finances or access to it in times of need, and

Review your financial structure

FINANCIAL MATTERS – the Value of Simplificationby Sean Macnamara B.B.Comm

APJ 89

dollars. We have outlined to clients also on fees that they pay to their

bank to have 6-8 different facilities. The fees on a business loan,

overdraft, credit cards (the banks really want you to have one of these

or two or three) can be as high as $2700-2800 per annum – now isn’t

that better in your pocket than in their profits to shareholders?

Too many business people don’t want to take on layers of professional

advice – it’s too time consuming, it’s too expensive, or we know what

we are doing! The bankruptcy court numbers simply don’t agree with

those statements. It is a fact that most small business failures occur in

the first two years of operation. Simply put, that is because of a lack of

capital or access to it. The balance usually occurs in year three, which is

because of a lack of levels of professional advice.

When a businessperson goes to their bank and the bank says “no” they

take this as being the end of it. We counsel people to ask why, or if

they have an alternative? There is an old saying ‘If you don’t ask you

don’t get’, furthermore the first “no” doesn’t mean no, it probably

means we either don’t want to help you or we don’t understand what it

is you want, or we are just too busy on other things. Ask why, and then

ask yourself are these people really suitable for my needs?

One of the biggest problems with business people is that they don’t

have or take the time to plan or budget and they don’t apply a simple

SWOT analysis. That does not mean you have to undertake a 10-year

plan, locking yourself away for days doing cash-flow projections.

SWOT simply means Strengths, Weaknesses, Opportunities and

Threats. Analyse three of each and write them down. These problems

are not unusual in a business, but they present an opportunity to look at

solutions.

Solutions can be many, but more often than not they produce

themselves out of a need. Often the solution to no tax return can be a

Low doc loan, but there is a need for caution and need to cancel out all

other debt. The problem could be deeper and require many and varied

solutions, sometimes in combination.

The solution could be to use or include a Line Of Credit (LOC) so that

business expenses could be kept in one account when using loan splits.

Include a chequebook and deposit book attached to an LOC times, while at the same time achieve dramatic debt reduction, is really eliminating fees and be at a lower rate of interest. Solutions don’t worth achieving. With more cash flow and less problems to solve you always jump out at you, but to us they are the things we do and look at could get on with the better aspects of life such as travel, or building every day. Having found the solution(s) you need to implement the personal assets. You could start a financial plan and build a varied solution(s) to achieve the required result.portfolio. The possibilities are endless.

Results are something we all want but often don’t get. Usually that is Don’t fall into the increasing cases of “I will do what they did!” They because we fear change or simply forget to implement the solutions. being the important word – they are not you! Each situation and case is Often the result of fear and not implementing solutions can be a failure. different. This is by far the hardest task in getting finances correct, but an astute

businessperson looks at these solutions and takes action, which in most Through APAN we plan to conduct a series of information seminars in cases causes the result we desire and can be better than expected.regional and capital cities over a two-hour period during the next year.

These seminars are invaluable and close contact with only 8-10 small The benefits that can be achieved can be many and varied. They could businesspersons in each seminar would be ideal. We would be pleased include things such as buying your own commercial premises, to then attend to individual needs. Alternatively you can phone us on increasing stock at a lesser cost for quantity, having the ability to 1300 668 670 or Email: info@mortgage-corp.com.au and we would be implement systems linked to business computers that can achieve pleased to refer you to one of our offices. economies of scale not previously achieved. This can cut costs and

build better profits. Having your own premises can leave you with

greater control of your destiny and also build an asset base for the

future.

Let’s face facts, paying less in interest and fees is something we all

want to achieve, while having no fear of failure because we have access

to credit for any and all those matters that can or could arise is also an

advantage. But moreover being able to increase profits by up to 2-3

Considering your options

Conducting a SWOT analysis

Sean Macnamara holds a degree in Business Commerce and a Cert 4

in Train the Trainer and has 25 years’ experience in Finance.

Mortgage Corporation Network is a Mortgage Manager and a full

member of the MFAA. Their Managing Director is Margaret

Macnamara who is a certified Associate Mortgage Consultant. They

have offices in Queensland, New South Wales, Victoria and

Tasmania.

This two-hour seminar program is tailor-made to assist small to

medium businesses to learn how they can gain:

Better financial control

Increase their bottom line

Minimise unnecessary fees and charges

Implement better business financial solutions

BETTER BUSINESS FINANCE seminars

will be run in every State.Fees: $22

Time: Two hours

If you would like to attend these seminars please phone Mortgage Corporation Network on 1300 668 670

Or Email: info@mortgage-corp.com.au

BETTER BUSINESS FINANCE Do you want to know how you can make

your money work for you?

APJ 90

very weak correlation between the cholesterol) as well as basil. Reducing bio-marker and obesity as measured chronic inflammation is no small thing, as it is by body mass index, despite other increasingly associated with leading to heart data suggest ing that caloric attacks and sits at the root of auto-immune restriction slows ageing. The data disorders, including diabetes, lupus,

suggest the possibility that reduced exercise rheumatoid arthritis and multiple sclerosis Simple blood test may actually be worse with regard to among others. One promising discovery is molecular age than a higher BMI," says Dr. oregano and E-BCP could well work to can help determine Sharpless, who expressed surprise about the prevent the immune system for overacting findings. and attacking itself, which is at the core of a person's auto-immune disorders."Although we don't know whether this test is a Molecular age good reflection of cellular age in all types of And there’s more. The Swiss scientists human tissues, we believe it is a first step reported that lab findings suggest that towards a better understanding of issues like oregano could well hold off the bone the suitability of organs for transplantation, degeneration associated with osteoporosis. how well patients are likely to recover after While not part of this study, the researchers surgery or the future toxicity of chemotherapy speculated that E-BCP could address for cancer patients," he adds. Study findings inflammation of the bowel associated with are being published in the journal Aging Cell. Crohn’s disease.For more information on Test detects molecular marker of ageing in humans visit The new research doesn’t surprise those of us www.eurealert.org who have discovered oil of oregano,

especially as a cold and flu remedy. Natural-health-conscious individuals say five drops in Oregano Stops a bit of water, then gargle with it, stops a sore throat in its tracks. Inflammation

Five years ago, a critical discovery in the Health practitioners who work with essential understanding of cellular ageing was made by oils will point to the three-fold potency of oil researchers from the University of North of oregano, identifying it as antibacterial, Carolina (UNC) at Chapel Hill Lineberger antiviral and antifungal. European herbal Comprehensive Cancer Center. Through their research consistently shows oregano as one of research, they learnt that expression of a key the most potent for immune-boosting tumour suppressor protein - p16INK4a - properties. dramatically increases in most mammalian

organs with the ageing of cells and tissue.The oil of oregano products are important to keep in mind because what might be labeled Now, a new study conducted by the same “oregano” in a dried herb products can team of researchers has shown that p16INK4a actually be Spanish marjoram, which is is also present in human blood and is strongly clearly not oregano. You want to look for associated with ageing and such behaviours sourcing information to identify the herb as as tobacco use and physical inactivity, both of wild oregano, which is typically grown in the which are known to accelerate the ageing Mediterranean region. Essential oil, of Over the past couple of years turmeric has process. Moreover, the researchers have been course, distilled the plant down to a become a darling of nutrition researchers. able to develop a simple blood test capable of concentrated and therapeutic form. Be savvy One particularly important study showed the detecting p16INK4a, which is present in T-about where and how you get your oregano spice reduces inflammation in mice. Curry all lymphocytes. Their research was based upon and health rewards await. And probably even around was the conclusion, since there is no two key factors: blood taken from 170 healthy better-tasting pizza sauce. toxic dose associated with turmeric. Asian human volunteers and a questionnaire that the

cuisine basked in the healthy glow of the pa r t i c ipan t s comple ted , p rov id ing Ref: Alternative Health Journal, Bob Condor research.information about past and current health

status and behaviours. As the scientists Not to be outdone, the herb oregano is giving discovered, the expression of p16INK4a Oral antioxidant a similar boost to Italian foods and pizza increased exponentially with age, and that sauce. A 2008 study completed by Swiss those increased levels were independently supplement shown to researchers shows that oregano is an ultimate associated with tobacco use, physical inflammation fighter. The active ingredient, inactivity and with bio-markers of human protect skin from the betacaryophyllin, helped seven out of every frailty.10 mice to recover from inflamed paws. effects of sunburn

"This is a major step towards a practical tool The study was published in Proceedings of to clinically determine a person's actual

As reports in scientific literature increasingly National Academy of Sciences in the US molecular age, as opposed to just their

confirm that antioxidant supplements can marking a significant mainstream mile for the chronological age," emphasises UNC

impede photo-ageing, cosmeceutical herb—and for betacaryophyllin, abbreviated Lineberger member Norman Sharpless,

developers are leaving no fruit un-thumped in as E-BCP, which is also plentiful in black M.D., the senior author of the study and

their quest to satisfy the public's hunger for pepper, rosemary and cinnamon (also found associate professor of medicine and genetics

formulations that protect the skin from the in research literature to be a regulator of bad at UNC's School of Medicine. "We found a

This section will present news and research information relating to skin and anti-ageing discoveries.

SCIENTIFIC NEWS

APJ 91

We've also seen anecdotal evidence that oral This new research suggests that DHEA may lycopene supplementation in the 5mg to moderate the production of new brain cells as 10mg daily dose range may reduce the risk of we age. When taken collectively with sunburn in very sensitive, fair-skinned previous broad research suggesting the role of individuals. The apparent protection of DHEA in enhancing the brain and memory, an Langerhans cells is also potentially important potential role of DHEA in cognitive significant," he notes, adding: "Oral dysfunctions such as senile dementia, supplements such as this mixture of lycopene including Alzheimer's Disease, is revealed.and related carotenoids need further studies like this one to expand our understanding of Menopausehow oral antioxidants impact our skin - both Daily DHEA supplementation has also for health and beauty." recently been shown to remedy some of the

side-effects of menopause. During a year-Ref: Longevity and Age Management, Skin- long study in Italy, 20 menopausal women Hair, Aesthetic Medicine. May 2009. took 25 milligrams of DHEA. Estrogen,

t e s t o s t e r o n e , a n d d ihydro tes tos te rone Clinical Update on increased by between

Benefits of DHEA three and four times, Dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA) while progesterone rose along with its form as a sulfate ester nearly two-fold. Lead

environment. One recent study, which (DHEA-S) that serves as a reservoir for r e s e a r c h e r D r . examined the effect of an oral lycopene DHEA itself, are weak androgens Alessandro Genazzani formulation in comparison to a placebo, produced primarily by the adrenal from the University of showed that oral antioxidant supplements can gland. Combined, DHEA and DHEA-S Modena (Italy) suggests protect against sunburn. are the most abundant adrenal that one day, DHEA may

hormones found in human plasma. r e p l a c e h o r m o n e Lyc-O-Mato an anti-oxidant that contains 5

replacement therapy mg of pure lycopene, along with a The peak plasma levels of DHEA and ( H R T ) , a s t h i s combination of such tomato-derived DHEA-S occur at approximately age 25 experiment resulted with phytonutrients as phytoene, phytofluene, years , decrease p rogress ive ly all women reporting beta-carotene, tocopherols and phytosterols thereafter, and diminish by 95 per cent i m p r o v e m e n t s i n was recently tested for its effects on around the age of 85 years. menopausal symptoms protecting the skin from sunburn.

such as hot flashes, The decline of DHEA’s concentrations without any side-effects

LycoRed Ltd. conducted a small pilot study to with ageing has led to the suggestion of any kind.examine the effect of its oral lycopene that DHEAs could play a role in itself formulation, Lyc-O-Mato, to protect the skin and be implicated in longevity as the Age-related heart diseasefrom sunburn. The study included 10 adult following findings confirm:

DHEA recently has also been found to reduce men and women, half of whom consumed Epidemiological evidence has shown that risk factors associated with age-related heart 85mg of Lyc-O-Mato 6 per cent capsules adult men with high plasma DHEA levels are disease. DHEA improves blood vessels by twice daily, and the other half, a placebo twice less likely to die of cardiovascular disease.stimulating the linings of arteries to produce daily. At the end of 10 weeks, the subjects DHEA has also been shown to increase nitric oxide, a substance that relaxes arterial were exposed to two minimal erythemal the body's ability to transform food into tension. In a Japanese study of 24 men, doses of UV radiation from a solar simulator. energy and burn off excess fat. average age 54, with elevated cholesterol, Their skin cells were biopsied and assessed 24

Recently, researchers discovered Kumamoto University School of Medicine hours later.important anti-inflammatory properties of researchers found that 25 mg of DHEA daily DHEA. It was known that DHEA could lower benefited endothelial function (flexibility of According to Zohar Nir, Ph.D., Weizmann the levels of interleukin-6 (IL-6) and tumour arteries), insulin sensitivity, and fibrinolytic Institute of Science in Rohovot, Israel, and necrosis factor alpha (TNF-alpha). Since activity, with changes taking place as early as vice president of new product development chronic inflammation contributes to the within four weeks of supplementation.for LycoRed, those participants receiving the development of the killer diseases of ageing

Lyc-O-Mato supplement experienced a such as heart disease, Alzheimer's disease and DHEA for men and women, in youth or in sunburn cell count six times lower than that of certain types of cancer, supplementation with older age, can be considered as a safe, multi-the placebo group. There was also evidence of DHEA, combined with conventional modal anti-ageing supplement promoting reduced depletion of Langerhans cells in the treatment, has been suggested to be quality of life and increasing the odds of Lyc-O-Mato group, which, Dr. Nir says is potentially therapeutic for improving the living longer lives.important because "depletion of Langerhans quality of life across a wide range of illnesses.

cells negatively affects the important immune References:function of the skin."

Strengthening the Nervous "'Anti-ageing' hormone found to boost brain cell growth," NutraIngredients.com, Feb. 19, The mechanism behind Lyc-O-Mato is System2004.simple, says Dr. Nir. "The interaction of In February 2004, a team of scientists from "DHEA, another HRT alternative?," radiation with the skin creates reactive the University of Wisconsin (Madison) Nutraingredients.com, Jan. 23, 2004.oxygen species (ROS), and lycopene is the exposed human neural stem cells to DHEA "DHEA could protect against onset of heart most effective quencher of the ROS free and yielded some of the world's first direct disease," Nutraingredients.com, July 28, radicals responsible for oxidative stress and evidence of the biological effects of DHEA on 2003.hence, damage of the skin." the human nervous system. DHEA Leowattana, W. "DHEA: The fountain of significantly increased cellular division in the youth." J-Med-Assoc-Thai. 2001 Oct; 84 The study sample may be small, but according cells contained in the lab dish, and increased Suppl 2: S605-12 0125-2208to David McDaniel, M.D., director of the the number of neurons produced by the stem

Institute of Anti-Aging Research in Virginia cells by up to 29%. The researchers observed Information courtesy AustralAsian Beach, its results are still impressive. "Our that, of all the steroids to which the lab stem Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine A5M research program has seen significant cells were exposed, DHEA was the only one (www.a5m.net) Tel 03 9813 0439.protection from UV damage from other to have such a direct effect on stem cell

topically applied super-potent antioxidants. growth and new neuron formation.

AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN

APJ 92

The anti-bacterial benefits of Ozone confirmedAs an aesthetic practitioner you regularly use your vapozone in your salon during your skin treatments.

By switching on your ozone button you are now able to emit an anti-bacterial mist on to the skin. Now research is finding another valuable use for it in protecting our food from contamination. Ozone is a colourless gas that is produced commercially by passing electricity through oxygen. Without heat or other

chemicals, it kills bacteria, viruses and moulds on foods such as fresh produce, poultry and meats.

“Ozone works very effectively,” says Dr Mark Tamplin, Professor in food microbiology at the University of Tasmania. “It’s used here in aquaculture for the rearing of seafood such as lobsters. It keeps the water quality high and helps kill parasites that attach to the skin of fish.” After 20-30 minutes ozone decomposes into oxygen without leaving any residue.

Fresh Flowers improve our

moodDid you know that having a cheerful bunch of fresh flowers in your reception could have a positive effect on your staff and the clients that visit you? Harvard psychologist Dr Nancy Etcoff sent 54 people either a mixed bouquet or a candle in a hurricane glass. Flower recipients reported they felt more compassion and kindness towards others than the recipients of the candles said they did. So go ahead and place freshly cut blooms where you’ll see them first thing in the morning. That’s when moods tend to be the lowest, but a fresh bunch of flowers can turn this around even without any further effort from you, even more so if they are aromatic.

This section will present the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information including International Expo

Calendar and Test Your Knowledge section.

TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGEHow well have you retained the information you have gained from this Journal? We are giving you to opportunity to test your knowledge. Why not give these questions a go? You will find the exact answers within the articles in this journal. Once you have completed your answers go to page 95 for the correct answers.

Q 1. What percentage of the epidermis remains intact after a skin treatment using Fractional laser?

Q 2. What is the average size of an LED head compared to an IPL head?

Q 3. Name APAN’S 15 key areas of strategic support to its members?

Q 4. What skin conditions benefit from the Vasculite device?

Q 5. Name the six technologies that are within the Skinlight unit?

Q 6. When was electroporation first discovered and how was it used in dermatology?

Q 7. For cosmetic application what levels of ultrasonic frequencies are used?

Q 8. Plant stem cells from a unique species called Uttwiler Spaitlauber were found to contain metabolites that are responsible for the longevity of a particular fruit. What fruit was it?

Q 9. It is known that Vitamin A induces a transcription of proteins in a cancer-suppressing gene. What is this gene called?

Q 10. What is considered to be the best method of calcium absorption into the human body?

Q 11. If an imported device has the provision of a CE mark or an EU mark and can present certification to this affect to the TGA for inclusion does it still have to undergo a Conformity Assessment ?

Q. 12. What does TGA stand for?

Q 13. Currently the Government Approved Beauty Training Package is WRB04. This is being replaced with which code?

Q 14. Name three therapeutic properties of Turmeric.

Q 15. Who is the regulator for cosmetics in Australia? (Think before you answer this one.)

Q16. Non-thermal therapeutic laser assists in resuscitation of the mitochondria where cellular ageing begins. However, what effects do non-thermal therapeutic lasers have on an extracellular level?

APJ 93

a e s t h e t i c i a n , a n d International Director of Education for Nelly De Vuyst skincare. Ms Pilon has c o n d u c t e d s e m i n a r s t h r o u g h o u t t h e w o r l d e d u c a t i n g m e d i c a l specialists, aestheticians, spa owners, dermatologists, as well as plastic surgeons and other professionals.

Manon Pilon will speak at the Australasian Academy of Ant i -Ageing Aes the t ic Medicine Conference on

thSunday 4 October 2009 at the Sofitel on Collins St in Melbourne. To book your a t t e n d a n c e v i s i t www.a5m.net or call 03 9813 0439.

WORLD MEDISPA EXPERT TO VISIT AUSTRALIA

The AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing Medicine (A5M) is pleased to announce the attendance of world-renowned MediSpa expert, Manon Pilon, who will hold a one day workshop dedicated to achieving success in a medispa business.

Manon Pilon’s workshop Boost your bottom line Medispa – Earn up to $500,000 per Medispa Room was a sellout in Dubai and looks set to be the MediSpa event of the year in Australia.

A5M will dedicate much of its 2009 Conference to business aspects of Anti-Ageing Medicine including how to establish an Anti-Ageing Medicine practice or medispa. Medical spas offer a range of therapies under the supervision of trained medical personnel but in the surroundings of a relaxing spa environment. Anti-Ageing Medicine services may include a thorough patient assessment to look at health risk factors, comprehensive pathological tests Natural Compatibles and a prescription of a total wellbeing program. Treatment protocols will vary, but launches new Websitewill usually span diet and nutrition, lifestyle

Natural Compatibles is excited to announce and exercise, supplementation and

the launch of their new FRESH look website, prescription medications. “Combining

which will be live by August, 2009. This new internal Anti-Ageing Medicine and external

and updated site will feature a FREE step-by-wellness treatments makes sense for clients

step makeup demonstration, using the Natural and is good business decision for health

Compa t ib l e s Fea tu re Focuss ing™ professionals,” said Mr Bill Anton -

Techniques that will also be launched at their Chairman of the A5M and Scientific Advisor

stand No.2918 at the International Beauty and to the American Academy of Anti-Aging

Spa Expo Sydney. To find out more visitMedicine.

them at the expo or visit www.naturalcompatibles.com.au

Manon Pilon is a Medical Spa consultant, recognised educator, researcher, medical

International Aesthetic & Spa Show Calendar 2009

Produced by Terry Everitt Aesthetic Educators

July 11-13 Face & Body Spa & Healthy Aging Conference and ExpoMcEnery Convention Center San Jose, CaliforniaT: + 1 630-653-2155 F: + 1 630-653-2192Email: FaceandBody@allured.com

July 19-21 Cosmopro North AmericaMandalay Bay Convention CenterLas Vegas, Nevada, USAT: + 39 051 282848 F: + 39 051 282895Email: fairsystem@fairsystem.it

Aug 8-9 Sydney Int. Beauty ExpoExhibition & Convention CentreDarling Harbour, Sydney T: 02 9422 2535 F: 02 9422 2917enquiries@internationalbeautyexpo.com.au

Sept 2-4 Natural Health AJC Convention CentreRandwick, SydneyT: 02 9660 2113 F: 02 9660 9786 info@naturalhealthexpo.com.au

Sept 9-14 58th CIDESCO WORLD CONGRESS

Grand Prince Hotel Kyoto Takaragaike, Sakyo-ku, Kyoto-shi, KyotoT: +41 44 448 22 00 F: +41 44 448 22 01 Email: info@cidesco.com

Sept 12-14 International Congress of Esthetics & SpaLong Beach Convention Center Long Beach, CaliforniaT: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664Email: registration@lneonline.com

Sept 12-14 16th International Hair Styling, Perfume, Cosmetics, Aesthetics and Beauty Fair.La Rural Trade CenterBuenos Aires, Argentina T: +54 11 4514 1400F: +54 11 4514 1404Email: beauty@indexport.com.ar

Sept 15-16 Spa & Resort/Medical Aesthetics Conference & ExpoJacob K. Javits Convention Center New York, NY, USA T: +1 203 840-5652 F: +1 203-840-9831Email: sporpiglia@reedexpo.com

Sept 20-21 Esthetique Spa InternationalPalais des congrès de MontréalMontreal (Quebec), CanadaT: + 450 434-4738 F: + 450 435-2027Email: info@spa-show.com

Oct 4-6 International Trade Fair for Perfumery, Toiletries and CosmeticsBombay Exhibition CentreMumbai, IndiaT: +91 - 22- 22021377 F: +91 - 22-22027243millie.contractor@india.messefrankfurt.com

Oct 5-8 ISPA Conference & ExpoAustin Convention CenterAustin, Texas. USA T: +1.859.226.4326 F: +1.859.226.4445 Email: ispa@ispastaff.com

Jackson, experience pneumonia and cardiac “It’s extra money just for doing your job manifestations and anaemia. Extreme fatigue correctly,” adds Leanne.and joint pain are common with Lupus. Although it seemed odd years ago, Michael This rewards program coincides with the

healers wearing a mask was wise. He came into introduction of heritage new look contact with millions of people, each one a branding to salon owners, and according to risk to his health when living with Lupus.Leanne Lovatt, the response has been

fabulous.There is no cure for Vitiligo, nor is there a cure “We are only 12 years young !”, says Leanne, for Lupus. Treatments for Vitiligo includes a “but we now offer so much more. It really topical steroid cream (mild topical was time to re-define and modernise our look. corticosteroid cream). Corticosteroids are a Most importantly for me was for the new Bio Sculpture Gel group of drugs similar to hormones such as brand to clearly reflect the core ‘wellness’ cortisone and are often used to treat Lupus message of our products and treatments. And welcomes pa t i en t s . U l t r av io l e t t he rapy and the new look is just the start of our brand photochemotherapy may be used to help review” adds Leanne, “so despite all the International Nail darken the patches, although this may ‘doom and gloom’, 2009 is shaping up to be a

healers increase skin cancer risk, burning or very big year for our heritage family!”Expert to Australiablistering. Vitiligo patients with over 50 per Vanessa Venter, Head Bio Sculpture Gel cent of their body affected may opt for F o r f u r t h e r i n f o r m a t i o n c o n t a c t International Educator, will visit Australia in

healers depigmentation, to match the already heritage on Freecall 1 800 68 50 50 or July to lead a series of training workshops on depigmented areas. A few famous names you visit www.heritagehealers.combehalf of Bio Sculpture Gel Australia as part

of a Bio Sculpture Gel world training tour. Venter, the international spokesperson for Bio Sculpture Gel – pioneers of the healthy approach to nail care with gels – will discuss new nails trends, the latest nail products and how to achieve “The Perfect Score Manicure”.

Bio Sculpture Gel training workshops will be held in Melbourne and Sydney for current technicians. The workshops will discuss the new trends in nails, products straight from the European runways and application techniques including how to achieve “The Perfect Score Manicure”. Technicians will also be able to speak directly with Venter. Venter recently spoke at the Bio Sculpture Gel International Conference in South Africa in May. She will be in Australia from 10-25July. To attend a training workshop call 1300 246 435.

may recognise:In 1986 Michael Jackson was diagnosed with Heritage Healers Vitiligo and Lupus. Vitiligo is a pigmentation Graham Norton has white patches in his disorder in which melanocytes (the cells that hair as a result of vitiligo.Rewarding salons make pigment) in the skin are destroyed. Seal — Musician, A childhood battle with Lupus is an auto-immune and inflammatory Discoid Lupus left him with facial scars for their work disease that attacks healthy cells, tissues and and hair loss.

Would you like some extra money? In an organs and can be fatal. In the 1993 Oprah Michael Wayne — The son of legendary industry first, heritagehealers unique Winfrey interview with Jackson he finally actor John Wayne, Michael Wayne died therapist reward program puts cash back into admitted to having this illness to debunk the of Lupus complications in 2003your pocket! “As a salon owner and therapist, “skin bleaching” rumours. Louisa May Alcott — author of classics I know that a little motivation goes a long way

such as Little Women is believed to have – and in these tough times what better Vitiligo is associated with auto-immune and had Lupus.motivation than some extra spending money? inflammatory diseases like Lupus and says Leanne, heritagehealers founding Addison’s. Lupus can cause inflammation of director. the heart, lungs, joints and many, like

APJ 94

Michael Jackson was a sufferer

of Lupus and Vitiligo

Vitiligo and Lupus can seriously affect a TRAININGperson’s self esteem. Being in the spotlight Naked Tan Head Office is relocating to a with only one of these would be very larger headquarters that will now be able to difficult, but for Jackson, having both an host National Training Workshops and internal and external disease and being such Events for our salon stockists and suppliers. high profile, while entertaining the world is Please refer to this section for scheduled miraculous. dates and details that will be published in the

upcoming issues. For more information on Vitiligo or Lupus Naked Tan Phone 1300 365 683visit: American Academy of Dermatology: www.aad.org, the Mayo Clinic:Http://www.mayoclinic.com/health/vitiligo/DS00586, T h e S L E L u p u s F o u n d a t i o n : www.lupusny.org and Cure 4 Lupus: www.cure4lupus.org

Vanessa Venter - Head Educator

for Bio Sculpture Gel International

Education Program

Australia JULY 2009

Tuesday, 21st July

Bio Sculpture Gel Training in Leichhardt, Sydney

Wednesday, 22nd July

Bio Sculpture Gel Training in Leichhardt, Sydney

Thursday, 23rd JulyONGOING TRAINING Bio Sculpture Gel Training in Leichhardt, Sydney

& EDUCATIONSydney Evening Training session with clients

*Please note that this program is subject to

change without notice.

Phone 1300 246 435 for further details.

OMVEDA Ayurvedic Beauty Workshop

Creating a unique and distinctive ambience that embraces genuine, traditional and ancient Ayurvedic therapies for your spa, OmVeda products are formulated from the basis of the vedic scriptures and traditional health and beauty recipes. OmVeda Signature treatments are based on traditional rejuvenating techniques. OmVeda conducts regular 1-3 day workshops, which include:

Overview of the Ayurvedic philosophy

Identifying Vikruti (constitutional state of the person)

Introduction to Herbology

Signature Skin and Body treatments and techniques for face, body and scalp

Call OmVeda on 1 300 662 383 to book your spot. Find out more about OmVeda by visiting www.omveda.com

NAKED TAN

APJ 95

Oct 11-12 Professional Beauty Manchester CentralPetersfield, Manchester, UKT: +44 20 77285000Email: marilyn.foyle@emap.com

Oct 18-19 Esthetique Spa International Calgary Stampede Park Roundup Center - Hall D, Calgary, CanadaT: + 450 434-4738F: + 450 435-2027Email: info@spa-show.com

Oct 18-19 Premiere BirminghamBirmingham Jeffereson Convention CenterBirmingham, Alabama, USAT: +1 407 2653131 F: +1 407 2653134Email: info@premiershows.com

Oct 25-26 International Congress of Esthetics & SpaPennsylvania Convention Center Philadelphia, PAT: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664Email: registration@lneonline.com

Oct 26-28 Beautyworld, Japan West INTEX, Osaka Nanko Cosmo Square,Osaka, Japan T: +81 6 6612-1234beautyworld@messefrankfurst.com

Nov 1-2 Esthetique Spa International Downtown Metro Toronto Convention Centre(North Building - Hall C) Toronto (Ontario) CanadaT: + 450 434-4738 F: + 450 435-2027Email: info@spa-show.com

Nov 11-13 Cosmoprof AsiaHong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, 1 Harbour Road Wanchai, Hong KongTel : +39 02 796 420 Fax : +39 02 795 036

E-mail : sogecos@cosmoprof.com

A1. 80%. A 8. Apple.A 9. p63.

A2. LED 218cm and Laser is 2cm2 2

A 10. Transdermally. A3 Mentoring, Business Structures, A 11. No.Regulations, Taxation, Client Growth,

Business Operations, Human Resources, A12. Therapeutic Goods Administration.Services, Life Skills, Ongoing Education,

Networking, Business Benefits, Legal A13. SIB09 is the new Beauty Training issues, Financial Matters and Investments.Package.

A 4. Improves the appearance of unsightly A14. Decongestant, anti-bacterial and anti-vascular blemishes, skin tags and acne.inflammatory.

A5. Microdermabrasion, Lymphatic A15. NICNAS – National Industrial D r a i n a g e , L E D , E l e c t r o p o r a t i o n , Chemical Notification and Assessment Cryotherapy, Skin Tester.Scheme. TGA becomes involved if therapeutic claims are involved.A6. For the transdermal treatment of

melanomas.A16. Reduces inflammation, enhances micro-circulation, lymphatic drainage and A 7. 1 – 3 MHZ.immune response.

ANSWERS TO TEST YOUR KNOWLEDGE

ingredient research

APJ 96

One of the mechanisms of improving skin vitality is by enhancing the activity. Oxygen enhances collagen formation in fibroblasts among oxygen levels of the skin. We know that oxygen is carried through the many other actions within humans. blood by erythrocytes that carry haemoglobin. Having adequate levels of haemoglobin in the blood is vital not only to the health of the body, Perfluorodecalin, a perfluorocarbon, is one of the first cosmeceutical but also to the skin, as blood also transports valuable nutrients that ingredients to be approved by the FDA in the US for use in cosmetic internally nourish it and give it a healthy glow. products. This can be explained, as perfluorodecalin is not a drug but a

synthetic molecule able to store gases such as oxygen and carbon Additionally, skin needs oxygen to assist in the production of collagen, dioxide. In other words, this molecule acts as a replica of our body’s elastin and other elements necessary for a healthy skin condition. As cellular breathing process. As such this unique substance may be we age the circulation in our capillaries deteriorates, thus decreasing described as a cosmeceutical, in that its function can be classified as the level of oxygen and nutrients reaching our skin cells. This further being between a cosmetic and a pharmaceutical. leads to dehydration of the skin.

We know that skin normally renews itself approximately every 28 Perfluorodecalin is a totally inert, steady, colourless and odourless days. However, if oxygen and nutrients are diminished, the cell substance. Among its less known properties it is both hydrophobic and reproduction process is slowed down, and the new skin cells are not as lipophobic, and as a consequence it is soluble only in materials with healthy, resulting in premature ageing and the manifestation of fine some fluor content. Liquid perfluorocarbons react in the same way as lines, wrinkles and a dull or sallow complexion. solid perfluor polymers such as PTFE.

In aesthetics, procedures such as massage, which stimulate heat in the skin assist in improving circulation and drawing nutritious blood to the Perfluorodecalin is used as a wound-healing material in hyberbaric skin that may be hindered due to stress and other factors. On the other oxygen therapy. (ref. Roth and Weiss, Elsevier Science Inc., 1994). In hand, gas phases in emulsions have generally been a nuisance for hyberbaric oxygen therapy (HBOT) oxygen is administered in an cosmetic formulators, in terms of accelerated destabilisation of environment where the ambient pressure has been increased. The micelles in creams. However, for many years, oxygen uptake in the ensuring hyperoxia and elevated pressure have a number of beneficial skin has been an attractive cosmetic property. Increasing oxygen in the clinical effects, including the promotion of wound-healing. As an Stratum Corneum becomes equivalent to the search for the Holy Grail example in 1989 HBOT was approved for use in severely burnt with its myth of Eternal Youth. Indeed, oxygen promotes metabolic patients. Much experimental and clinical data supporting the use of processes within the dermis and viable cells to produce a higher state of HBOT already has more than 10 years of information. With the use of

GENERAL CHARACTERISTICS

WOUND HEALING MATERIAL

Perfluorodecalin – a new advancement in skin oxygenationPerfluorodecalin – a new advancement in skin oxygenation

APJ 97

HBOT oedema can be decreased, also marginally viable tissue can be The increase in skin moisture within the application period follows the preserved. HBOT promotes wound closure and enhances host same pattern as the increase in the oxygen partial pressure measured in defences. Based on the wound healing studies it can be concluded that the previous study. In contrast to known moisturisers, the effect with Perfluorodecalin acne skin and seborrheic scalp can be treated and remains at a higher level for several days. positive results expected.

Another test examined the time element of the skin moisture levels of 30 women, aged 35-40 years. The increase in moisture within the application period followed the same pattern as the increase in the The mechanism of natural gas carriers can be identified with the oxygen partial pressure, which was measured in previous studies. mechanism of erythrocytes, or red blood cells. They are very small Again, in contrast to known moisturises, the effect remains at a high cells, 33-10 microns, with generally no nucleus or internal membrane. level for several days. Erythrocytes are mainly filled with the oxygen binding protein

haemoglobin as mentioned earlier. The main functions of erythrocytes are to transport oxygen and carbon dioxide. They constitute 45 per cent of the volume of the 5-6 litres of blood that we carry. The oxygen Perfluorodecalin has specific surface characteristics. As mentioned molecules are bound by haemoglobin in a co-operative way. previously, it is not hydrophilic or lipophilic, but homophilic, repelling

other ingredients in the formulation and acting as a co-emulsifier. It The gas-carrying mechanism of perfluorocharbons is fully comparable creates instantly a third phase and stabilises the emulsion, increasing to the function of respiratory gases in our body. The diffusion of considerably the size of the micelle walls by up to 20 microns. The respiratory gases, oxygen and carbon dioxide is directly related to the emulsion, before Perfluorocarbons addition and after Perfluorodecalin partial pressures of these gases. addition was studied by microscope. The addition of Perfluorocarbons

changed the emulsion structure, reducing the amount of air bubbles.

The surface change of Perfluorocarbons was very negative, minus 7-100 mV at pH 5.5-7 and hence Perfluorocarbons is a very easy material Perfluorodecalin as a hydrophobic and lipophobic fluid is easily to formulate with. It can be mixed into the final formulation at the end identifiable in emulsions as an interface micelle formation from oil or of the processing, like the fragrance. No special preparation is needed, water networks. Such fluorinated materials depict traditionally third-except when it is used as a gas carrier. The gas-loaded product has to be phase elements in emulsions. The characteristics of carrying gas at a incorporated at room temperature into the emulsions to avoid gas controlled level of volume allow the creation of a fourth active gaseous diffusion, which is accelerated by high temperatures. No phase in emulsions. incompatibility with any cosmetic ingredient is known, and as a very inert material, Perfluorocarbons are not sensitive to any chemical reactions.

Perfluorocarbons allow the skin to breathe to optimum levels and to self regulate better in polluted environments. It is an ideal detoxification agent, as it cleans the skin of carbon dioxide and The issue of oxygen and the skin has received a great deal of media enriches the oxygen levels of the skin. Perfluorodecalin does not attention. It was demonstrated by Stanzl et al that the decrease in the interfere with the normal functions of the skin, like perspiration or the oxygen partial pressure of the skin occurred with the increase of age pH barrier, and doesn’t clog the pores. Perfluorocarbons provide an and depended on risk behaviour such as smoking. In their study, Stanzl instant refreshing effect to the skin due to its very emollient et al were able to point out a way of increasing the oxygen partial characteristics, creating a thin-film application and in some cases pressure of the skin by 100 per cent and of maintaining this increased providing even water-proofing properties. At relatively low status over a period of time. (28 days panel test). concentrations it boosts SPF. Perfluorocarbons do not absorb UV-light, but with even a small addition of say 0.4 per cent they give a positive Comparisons were also made of partial pressure of oxygen (PO2) in the effect to a sunscreen. It has been concluded that Perfluorodecalin skin after 28 days treatment with products containing 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 restructures the emulsion creating the third phase and improves the per cent Perfluorocarbons. The calculation of the correlation distribution of UV-filters. It also modifies the rheology and improves coefficient (r=0.978) shows a linear correlation between the amount of the application.oxygen applied and the increase of the partial pressure in the skin.

according to the publication in Luber Stryer At age 30, the loss of oxygen levels in the skin drops by 25%Biochemie, 1979. The oxygen supply to each cell of the body diffuses At age 40, the loss of oxygen levels in the skin drops by up to 50% over a distance of approximately 0.05mm.

In highly polluted environments the oxygen loss to the skin can be even higher.The uptake of oxygen in the cell is based on active transport

mechanism between the cells and intercellular space. The increase of oxygen supply results in a stronger diffusion gradient, which allows the cells of the epidermis to take up the optimal quantity of oxygen for their metabolic processes.

The moisture content of the skin was tested using an emulsion, which Perfluorocarbon Nanoemulsions for Quantitative Molecular Imaging contained 10 per cent Perfluorodecalin. Skin profile, change of depth and Targeted Therapeutics. Kaneda MM, Caruthers S, Lanza GM, of wrinkles and change of number of wrinkles after 14 days of Wickline SA.application were tested using the emulsion twice a day and the same 1. Flutec PP Fluorocarbon Liquids, ISC Chemicals Ltd, table E5-2/4product with Perfluorocarbons was analysed. Twenty women, aged 25-2. King, A. T., Mulligan, B. J., Lowe, K. C. Biotechnology, 7, 1989, 55 years were tested.p1037-1042.

GAS CARRYING MECHANISM

COSMETIC PROPERTIES

PERFLUORODECALIN AS A COSMETIC INGREDIENT

Perfluorodecalin is a unique gas carrier and as such allows cosmetic formulations to solve problems of carbon dioxide cleansing or oxygen enrichment of cells. The gas-carrying capacity of Perfluorodecalin is a physical phenomenon and totally reversible through gas diffusion.

OXYGEN AND THE SKIN

An optimal state of oxygen supply results in greater build-up of

STATISTICS TO CONSIDER:collagen production

MOISTURE CONTENT OF THE SKIN REFERENCES

If you are interested in a skin care line using Perfluorodecalin view 2B’s Bio Serum 02 and Bio

Oxygel on pages 75 and 77.

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There’s nothing that makes you feel less like donning your bathers and heading for the beach than an unsightly bikini line or depilatory damaged skin.

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in 1975, its advanced formulations have been perfected through continuous research and have evolved into three breakthrough products – Bikini Saver, In-Grown Gold Medi-Cream and In-Grown Gold Medi Lotion.

Dubbed ‘from Down Under for down under’, Hovan’s Bikini Saver is a highly effective yet gentle cream developed for in-grown hairs around the bikini line. The

natural active ingredients work on skin and hair at a cellular level, and whether you remove hair by waxing, shaving, laser or electrolysis it can work wonders.

In addition, the In-Grown Gold Medi Cream or Lotion treats and helps prevent in-grown hair, razor bumps and sensitivity to waxing, shaving, electrolysis and laser hair

removal. Suitable for all skin types and colours, the formulation includes Vitamin A (Retinol), bromelain, tea tree oil and the exfoliating ingredient Resorcinol.

It works by peeling away dead skin cells and helping to regulate the growth and activity of epithelial skin cells and promote new growth of healthy cells. Bromelain enzyme, derived

from pineapple, aids exfoliation and soothes irritation. The use of tea tree oil offers natural antibacterial qualities to curb bacteria and help control skin irritation.

Application takes around 30 seconds and, as it is concentrated, only a small amount applied in a thin layer is required. For optimal results, the leave-on formula should be

applied morning and night for two weeks, and once daily thereafter.

Hovan’s Group is a recognised name and is a regular exhibitor at beauty, spa and medical expos internationally. Principals Leslie Hovan and Val Glover-Hovan

are the driving forces behind the company and have been involved in the Australian cosmetic industry for over 30 years, offering treatments such as

corrective and makeup tattooing.

Leslie and Val have grown and diversified the business to an international enterprise with more than 40 distributors and an excess of 2,000 direct

customers in Australia, New Zealand, Singapore, the Middle East, United States, Canada and the Caribbean.

Prepping for bikini season is an intensive process, but with the range of in-grown hair treatment products from Hovan’s Group, becoming body beautiful and bump-free is a breeze.

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For further information phone +61 2 9938 2111 • 1300 88 66 55 email: sales@hovansgroup.com www.cosmetictattooaustralia.com

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