apj vol 23 2014
DESCRIPTION
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 23 Summer 2014 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)TRANSCRIPT
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Summer Issue Volume 23. 2014
PRACTITIONERSPRACTITIONERSAESTHETICS AESTHETICS
The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812 Journal
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INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS
REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND
TECHNOLOGY
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL
DEVELOPMENT
SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES
8-9 CEO's Heart-2-Heart Report
24-26 Major Global Shifts and How they will Impact the Future
46 Induction into the Hall of Fame – Achievement for the Betterment of Others
52-55 Scientific News
74-76 Courage at its Best – The story of Visible Changes
78-79 Fulfilling a life-long Dream
80-82 Update on Australian Skincare and Beauty Services Statistics
88-89 Product Innovations
96-99 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin
18-20 Taking a Fresh Look at Higher Education
51 Medical Cosmetic Tattooing Post-Graduate Workshop
56-58 Perfecting Facial Features
86-87 Stress and the Immune-Brain Connection
90-95 Effective Diagnosis of Skin Lesions and the Role of the Dermascope – Part 2
100-102 Improving Self-Esteem with Medical Cosmetic Tattooing
32-36 The Cosmeceutical Face
48-50 Committed to the Beautiful Face and Body
64-66 Skin Health and the Integrative Approach
83-85 The Health and Skin Benefits of Witch Hazel
207-109 Australian Obesity Rates Climbing Faster than anywhere else in the world studies show
114-118 The Cosmetic and Health Benefits of Bio-identical Hormones
119-112 Why Butter is no longer a Dirty Word
16-17 APAN’s Different Memberships
22-23 The Best Kept Secret to Client Retention and Growth
44 Ask the Expert
60-61 Star Performers – The team every business needs
103-106 Business News
123 APAN Membership
40-42 A5M Stages Another Successful Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medical Conference
47 APAN Conference Program – Bigger and Better in 2015
68-71 Winning the War on Change and Competition – APAN Conference, Sydney
110-113 Tasmania – A Great Success
APJ 4
In this issue of APJ we cover some amazing information on aesthetic treatments, business strategies, trends and internal wellbeing.
You will note that we are increasing the articles on inner health as this is a growing consumer expectation from our industry and if
you don't provide them with answers they will go elsewhere. Whether you have the qualifications to provide nutritional and
hormonal support matters not. What is important is that you learn to identify deficiencies so that they can be directed to the right
expert to address these needs, support your client's wellbeing and enhance the results on their skincare treatments. This integrative
approach is the way to the future and it is important that those who wish to be well positioned for these trends start moving in that
direction. However, to do so will require new knowledge on your behalf and APJ is committed to provide you with valuable articles
and insight into these areas.
In this issue you will also find reports on the A5M Conference as well as the last two APAN conferences – Sydney and Tasmania. If
you have never attended one of these events you don't know what you are missing out. I received an email from one of our members
today, Leslie Morgan-Wesson who is based in Sydney. She attended both the APAN Sydney Conference and the Hobart
Conference. These are some of the comments from her last correspondence.
“I just wanted to say a very sincere thank you for the whole Tasmanian experience, which, as always, was planned to perfection… I
also enjoyed the Saturday excursions and the opportunity to get to know some of you a little better. I think those who didn't make the
effort to attend only stood aside to let those of us who are more proactive steam ahead of the competition sufficiently to ensure we
continue to thrive in the future…”
These sentiments were also reflected by other members, so why not plan to attend one of our conferences next year to see what you
are missing out on? Check out page 47 for further dates and details.
May this year end on a high note for you and may 2015
greet you with joy and the promise of better things to
come.
My best wishes for a Merry Christmas to you and your
loved ones.
Follow Tina on
Welcome to the summer issue of APJ
Journal. As we approach the end of the
year the aesthetics industry is well
positioned to offer consumers what they
love best – to look and feel their best.
Preparing for what is considered as the busiest season for our industry
will require good planning to entice current and potentially new clients
to value your offerings through the level of benefits they will gain from
them.
Remember that the key consideration is to offer multiple benefits that
they cannot resist. This should include improving their appearance,
minimising their stress levels and enhancing their wellbeing. If you can
cover services that benefit these three areas you can potentially have a
client for life.
If you want your clients to stay loyal to you over another competitor,
give them more, service them better, treat them with greater care and
consideration and honour their needs through genuine solutions that
solve their concerns.
EDITOR’S OTEN
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APJ 6
http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page
Follow APAN on http://twitter.com/#!/apanetwork
@apanetwork
APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com
APAN Office Email: [email protected]
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APJ 7
Editor
Typesetting & Graphics
Advertising and Marketing
Publishers
Design & ProductionArtwork and Editorial
Printed for
Accounts Payable
Journal Advisory Board
National Advisory Council
ISSN: 1836-981
Circulation 6900
Tina VineyPhone: (07) 5593 0360
Fax: 07 5593 0367Email: [email protected]: www.apanetwork.com
Mark VineyKharis Enterprises Pty Ltd
Tina VineyPhone: 07 5593 0360
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory NetworkPO Box 5448
Q Super Centre Qld 4218Australia
Fax: 07 5593 0367Mobile: 0412 177 423
Email: [email protected]
Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd
Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd8 Parkdale CourtRobina Q 4226
Phone: 07 5593 0360Fax: 07 5593 0367
Mobile: 0412 177 423Email: [email protected]
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd
ACN 136 987 169ABN 25 136 987 169
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory NetworkPO Box 5448
Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia
Terry Everitt – Education featuresWendy Neely – PR and Marketing
Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific contentCaroline Nelson – Business Features
John FergussonTerry EverittBill AntonGill Fish
Vanessa KirkhamMaureen Houssein-Mustafa
Print Post Approved [100000257]
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics
Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service
the needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and
business networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for
the benefit of its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members
on better business practices and industry advancements.
All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole
is not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has
been made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as
accurate as possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are
highly recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered
financial adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
Welcome to APJ
FRONT COVER
Sormé Treatment Cosmetics
Distributed by DYNAMIC SKIN SOLUTIONS Australian and New Zealand Distributors
Phone: 02 9525 8368 or [email protected] further information see pages 12-14
As a representative industry body APAN takes its
mandate to protect the industry and fight for its
recognition seriously, however, in all truthfulness, we
would greatly appreciate if practitioners and
therapists took their own destiny more seriously.
While we have hundreds of therapists applying for
funding for the above qualification, over 38% decided
to drop out and not undertake the qualification even
though they had completing their application forms,
which were submitted and approved by the
Government with funding allocated towards their
application. This type of lackadaisical behaviour
does not reflect well for our industry and brings it to
disrepute, while putting us in the embarrassing
position to report these dropout numbers, not to
mention doubling our workload to replace these
individuals. Dear colleagues and friends
It must be noted that APAN does not receive any funding from the If you are receiving the APJ Journal, whether you are a
Government for such activities. The only revenue we receive is through member of APAN or not, I would urge you and would
our membership fees. Part of our members' fees goes towards these all-appreciate if you took a few moments to read this report
important, but often very time-consuming activities. as it contains some crucial information that could be
very valuable to you. As a professional, it is important
that you gain in-depth insight into what drives your The NWDF is an initiative that has been instrumental in helping to create industry and the role that APAN is playing in protecting awareness within the beauty and aesthetics industry of the importance of you and supporting your needs.undertaking formal qualifications in the use of Laser and IPL. These
graduates are giving APAN ammunition to fight in their favour with
potential regulations.
We are delighted to report that finally 120 therapists have And talking of regulations, after almost three years working with the undertaken and completed the government-funded Vocational ARPANSA-instigated Working Group (on which APAN is also a Graduate Certificate for IPL and Laser Hair Reduction as part of the member), the Working Group has put forward their recommendations NWDF. This project has kept us busy for over 18 months and with for national regulations for the use of IPLs and Lasers for cosmetic its successful completion APAN plans to approach the Government purposes. The Draft Proposal Consultation Regulation Impact for further funding, as requests are constantly coming from eager Statement (RIS) was submitted to the Department of the Prime Minister therapists who wish to undertake this qualification. While some and Cabinet Office of Best Practice Regulation (OBPR) with two providers are offering VET FEE Help this assistance will need to be proposed recommendations. These were reviewed and the OBPR has repaid. However, the government-funded project is not a loan as responded with further requirements of evidence, so the battle towards the Government covers 67% of the costs of your training for which regulations continues.you don't need to repay them – how good it that?
FIGHTING FOR YOUR BENEFIT
UPDATE ON REGULATIONS
NATIONAL WORKFORCE DEVELOPMENT FUND
(NWDF)
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The CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT
The Power of Working TogetherCOMBINED INTELLIGENCE
Membership ClassificationsWHO IS APAN AND WHO DO THEY REPRESENT?APAN offers several levels of Membership to suit each and every need.
These include:
Gold Membership
Gold Membership (Degree)
Gold Membership (Medical)
Gold Membership (Cosmetic Tattoo)
Corporate Platinum Membership
Corporate Platinum Plus Membership
Industry Representation
IS APAN AN ASSOCIATION OR A SOCIETY?
WHAT ELSE DOES APAN DO?
Professional Collaboration
WHY DO YOU NEED TO JOIN?These include:
A5M –
COSMETEX –
ASAPS –
NLCMC –
APAN Conferences
Industry Journal
As this is the last issue of APJ Journal for 2014 I would like to take
the opportunity to set the record straight about who is APAN, as
there seems to be many misconceptions about who we are and what for individuals and smaller enterpriseswe do. also has a classification for Degree
qualified Nurses and Dermal TherapistsAPAN is in the unique position to be the only professional industry is also available to cosmetic medical member-based body that solely represents the top end of the practitionersaesthetics industry, which includes aestheticians, clinical is available to Cosmetic Tattoo aesthetic therapists, IPL and Laser therapists, dermal practitionerstherapists, cosmetic nurses as well as cosmetic medical for three or more staffprofessionals. We also represent Cosmetic Tattooists and – this category offers a full Medical Cosmetic Tattooists. We have professional members in marketing package that includes a fully designed mobile website, all these categories. Our services include in-depth consultation and monthly progress reports on your activities as well as a thorough professional advice on a one-on-one basis. We look at and support comprehensive coaching and marketing service. We work with you our members' individual, business and professional needs at an to develop your marketing strategy through a comprehensive EXPERT LEVEL. We also provide them support on all their legal marketing plan aimed at helping businesses increase their profits and regulatory matters, often saving them thousands of dollars in and grow.penalty fees, not to mention the stress and pressures from error of
non-compliance to regulatory requirements. This also includes
wages and staffing concerns.APAN is the only aesthetics body that is fully represented on various
regulatory consultative groups, including the Working Group for
IPL/Laser regulations. It is consulted by the Australian Tax Office, APAN is a professional member-based body that is both a network Queensland Health Department and is constantly liaising with various as well as operating with the same mandates and responsibilities Health Regulatory bodies in all States. It is also constantly approached that a society or an association would do. It has a more modern by several insurance companies for advance on safety guidelines for structure that seems to support and better facilitate the decision- various modalities and activities performed in salons, clinics and spas. making process that is needed in today's fast-paced world of APAN also consults on a weekly basis with its lawyers, Pointon Partner constant change. The evidence of its successful governance is that it Lawyers, on industrial relation matters for the benefit of its members. has launched numerous initiatives and achieved an incredible APAN is in the Curriculum Advisory Committee for the Bachelor of amount in just five years since its inception. Applied Health Science (Aesthetics Therapies). Vigilant about global
trends APAN is recognised as the industry watchdog for global trends,
new advances in technologies for equipment and skincare, as well as
APAN is highly committed in bringing credible information and consumer changes to their expectations and buying behaviour. This is
education for the benefit of its members. Here is just a snapshot of just one of APAN's unique areas of expertise. To ensure their members
its activities: are kept up to date on changes in a timely manner they commit to over
three hours per day on research in this area. We believe this information
is highly valuable in guiding our members on their best possible options
in staying ahead of change and maintaining a successful business that is APAN supports other Associations and Medical Societies. Each relevant to the modern-day consumer. year we attend several medical conferences and present full reports
on them in APJ Journal.
As a professional you need expert advice on a regular basis. You need
specialist professionals whose commitment is to offer you reliable, AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic
professional advice for your protection. As a professional you need an Medicine and the A5M Conference
industry Code of Ethics and you need business advice and support. You Staged by The Australasian College of Cosmetic also need a corporate voice to represent you with government and for the Surgery (ACCS) development of education. By joining APAN you are not only Australasian Society of Aesthetic Plastic Surgeryprotecting yourself, but also supporting your industry to maintain a National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference strong voice with government and the decision-makers. approved by the Australian College of Aesthetic Medicine
As we come to the end of another year I want to take the opportunity to The purpose for these alliances lies in APAN’s belief that aesthetics wish you a Merry Christmas and I trust you will be taking some time to is moving towards a more collaborative, integrative model, and we relax and enjoy the Christmas break. I also hope you will see the value of foster this direction through good relationships, professional allowing us to support you as a professional member in 2015 as you face alliances and through the promotion of education, both formal as a new year with its challenges and opportunities. We are here to help well as through credible conference programs.you. Please contact us for further details on 07 5593 0360 or download
an application form on www.apanetwork.com
APAN is the only Aesthetics body that stages three conference each Committed to your progressyear and in three different States.
APAN's official publication APJ is committed to quality scientific Tina Vineyand educational articles that can support the industry's progress. Chief Executive Officer
APJ 9
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APJ 12
The trend for multi-functionality in skincare and makeup Recently Dynamic Skin Solutions launched in Australia Sormé
products is now well established. Since 2012 research on Treatment Cosmetics. We caught up with the director, Jacqui
consumer trends have clearly identified their gravitation Guinane, to discuss what she identified in this range that made
towards, not just performance products, but also products that her decide to introduce it to the Australian professional skincare
deliver multiple benefits. This led to the advent of the BB and market.
later, the CC makeup creams that are rapidly gaining popularity.
APJ 1: JACQUI, WHY DID YOU CHOOSE SORMÉ In the professional arena multi-functionality is considered an TREATMENT COSMETICS?essential element if a salon that is offering skin treatments is to JACQUI:also provide makeup products. This is becoming increasingly
essential for several reasons. First, the continued advancement
of new technologies and their multiple
uses within a treatment protocol
means the skin is often activated to
become more receptive to absorption.
This often continues several hours
after a treatment is completed. While
in the past makeup was not
encouraged, for obvious reasons
directly after a facial treatment, this is
no longer a problem. With the
introduction of “skincare makeup”
w h e r e c o l o u r c o s m e t i c s a r e
formulated with herbs, vitamins and
botanicals, and even peptides, and
hyaluronic acid, the issue of continued
absorption is no longer disruptive or
counter-productive to the objectives
of a facial treatment. Skincare
makeup can therefore be confidently
used not just to further enhance the
appearance of the skin, but also to
support the treatment and even
continue enhancing the results.
I discovered Sormé Treatment Cosmetics when I was
visiting Cosmoprof in Las Vegas, while on my honeymoon in July this
year. Our stockists from our other two brands – Sranrom Body Care
Colour Me Beautiful and Treatment Me Well
Award-Winning Professional Treatment Cosmetics launches in Australia
and D'Vine Skin Care – have been begging us to bring in a makeup
line for over two years, to complement these two ranges. Our
objective is to offer top-quality products and service so that we
could be the “preferred supplier” to our partner salons, and it was
essential that we offer them all the products they needed to succeed.
However, we did not have a makeup range. Sormé stood out to me
in the first instance because of their eye-catching displays. They
were hard to miss even in a sea of other brands that we saw – they
really jumped out and made me take notice!
I therefore met with their international sales manager to examine
the quality further and the company's standing. He confirmed to me
that Sormé have been making “Skin Care Makeup” for over 25
years, so even before the mineral makeup boom, Sormé recognised
the need for makeup to be an extension of skincare. He showed me
their “hero” products, their unique square lip and eye liners, which
make application a breeze and are also smudge-proof. Sormé
Undereye Shadow is a wonderful product that makes blending
colours easier and helps anchor eye shadow for a smooth and long-
lasting effect.
What I loved about Sormé Treatment Cosmetics is that they have
Traditional Makeup as well as Mineral Makeup, so we can cater
for clients who need performance products for photographic and
bridal, as well as mineral products for those who prefer natural
based products.
We have many great makeup brands in Australia, but most of
the professional brands are just becoming so expensive! Sormé
Treatment Cosmetics offer high-quality Professional Makeup at really
affordable prices. As a launch special we are offering free display stands
and testers with our package options. Stockists also benefit from 100%
mark-up on retail products. Retail prices start from just $17.95, up to
$57.95 for a trio product, so Sormé pricing is going to allow salons to
compete against the big consumer brands and win back clients who
might be purchasing from the chemist or supermarket! Having the
beautiful countertop displays really showcase the products and
encourage clients to pick up and try products – the displays act as a silent
salesman. Sormé Cosmetics really do sell themselves.
Sormé LipTHICK Plumping Glosses contain a peptide ®
called Maxi-Lip , which helps to stimulate natural collagen to increase
lip fullness up to 40% in 30 days. Mineral Botanicals Lip Sticks contain
Vitamins A, C and E to protect against environment damage. ™EXTABROW Brow Enhancing Serum contains clinically proven
™Panax Peptide , which stimulates natural brow growth and extends the
life cycle for fuller brows. Sormé Mineral Botanical Eye Shadows and
Blushers contain Vitamin E and Pomegranate for antioxidant protection. ®Fresh Start Anti-Ageing Primer contains Dermaxyl Peptide, which is
considered as one of the most potent anti-ageing ingredients today.
The comments we get from clients and makeup artists is that this makeup
offers a wonderful non-drying satin finish with the eye shadows and
blushes that deliver a much more flattering finish than many of the
traditional makeup lines. The excessive sparkle may look glamorous in
the palettes, but on the face they can look fake and actually ageing –
unless you have a flawless, very young complexion. On the other hand,
super matt finishes can look floury and dull. With our formulas the soft,
dewy satin finish offers a perfect balance that gives off a nice glow
without looking fake or ageing.
APJ 2: WHAT GIVES SORMÉ A COMPETITIVE
ADVANTAGE?
JACQUI:
APJ 3: TELL US SOME OF THE SKINCARE INGREDIENTS
USED IN SORMÉ TREATMENT COSMETICS?
JACQUI:
APJ 13
Superb makeup must be both glamorous and beneficial to your skin
– the living canvas for every colour. For over 25 years, Sormé has
teamed with professional makeup artists and the finest formulators
around the world to bring you an exceptional blend of traditional
beauty wisdom and advanced antiageing technology in every
product.
Active plant botanicals, natural minerals, healing vitamins and
clinically proven, age-reversing peptides help protect and improve
your skin as rich colour pigments enhance your natural beauty.
Today, Sormé is the makeup of choice for top Hollywood film
studios and celebrities, their “secret weapon” to create their vision of
glowing skin, pouting lips and captivating eyes. Carrie Underwood's
Make-up Artist calls Sormé Brow Highlighter the “push-up bra for
your eyes”. Now Australian salons and clinics can discover why
Sormé has a reputation as an exceptional makeup for all ages.
Sormé is the Egyptian name for the natural black Kohl, the substance
used by queens and princesses to enhance their eyes. Dating back to
the fourth millennium, it was Cleopatra who made this intensely
pigmented black powder a sensation with her exotic eye makeup.
Kohl is still used today to create the mysterious allure that is truly
timeless.
The Sormé Professional difference is not only in choosing the finest
ingredients, but also unique packaging that has the professional user
in mind. All Sormé Professional products have been thoroughly
tested and perfected to meet the high standards required by
professional makeup artists to accommodate their growing demand
for perfection in a highly competitive market.
Sormé Professional Skincare cosmetics constantly researches and
consults with leading makeup artists and skincare therapists to
identify specific professional needs to ensure that Sormé provide
them with solutions as the leading innovative products available.
Thanks to our relationships with US-based laboratories and
packaging companies, we are able to produce and bring to market
innovations in the cosmetics and skincare categories much faster
than the conglomerates.
Sormé also has amazing, innovative lash and brow grow products,
seasonal display stands and great value seasonal gift packs!
Discover the Professional Make-up Collections LipTHICK
Plumping Lip Gloss, Anti-ageing Primer, Bronzers, Lipliners,
Eyeliner Pencils & Liquids, Brow Style Compacts, Brow Gels,
Liquid Foundations, BB Creams, Wet/Dry Foundations and MUCH
MORE! Phone today and take advantage of the Special
Introductory Offer.
TREAT AND PROTECT YOUR SKIN
SORMÉ ORIGINS
PACKAGING
INNOVATION
For a limited time – various retail packages will be
available with FREE Display Unit and FREE
Testers! 100% Mark-up.
Sormé Treatment Cosmetics are proudly distributed in
Australia & New Zealand by Dynamic Skin Solutions
02 9525 8368 or [email protected]
WHAT DOES SORMÉ SKINCARE COSMETICS OFFER YOU?
ACCESS TO LEADING INDUSTRY EXPERTSIndustrial RelationsWage RatesBest Business SolutionsCoaching & MentoringLegal AdviceDiscounted ServicesMarketing Strategies
WHY DO PROFESSIONALS AND BUSINESSES JOIN APAN?
THE PREMIER BODY THAT ASTUTE PROFESSIONALS & BUSINESSES CHOOSE
GOLD MEMBERSHIP CLASSIFICATIONSAPAN offers several Membership Levels to suit your individual needs. You choose what suits you best.
Gold Membership for Individuals and
Smaller Enterprises
Gold Membership (Degree) also has a
classification for Degree-qualified Nurses and Dermal Therapists
Gold Membership (Medical) is also
available to Cosmetic Medical Practitioners
APAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCESEducation Consumer Trends Industry innovations Strategic thinking| | |
“APAN is the professional body I turn to when I am in need of
guidance and advice. It’s simple, they save me time, money
and minimise my stress. Why go anywhere else when I can
go to LEADING EXPERTS at no additional fees.”Jane Boyle, W.A, Salon owner
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THE STRONG VOICE REPRESENTING YOU WITH GOVERNMENT
SERVING AND SHAPING THE NEXT GENERATION OF INDUSTRY LEADERS
CORPORATE PLATINUM CLASSIFICATIONS
Corporate Platinum Membership
for five or more staff
Corporate Platinum Plus Membership for those who want a full
business and marketing package and in-depth consultation.
This category includes a fully designed and optimised mobile website, monthly progress reports on your activities as well as a complete coaching and marketing service. We work with you to develop your marketing strategy through a comprehensive marketing plan aimed at helping businesses increase their profits and grow.
DOING BUSINESS BETTERRegulatory compliance issuesBest Code of EthicsRisk Management StrategiesLatest Consumer TrendsStrategies for Better Money ManagementSuccessful Strategies for Profit Growth
“When I need expert advice on industry intelligence, trends
and regulatory issues that could affect my business I go to
APAN as the preferred experts. Their information is always
up-to-date and accurate.” John Jackson, NSW Practice Manager
THE ONE-STOP-SHOP FOR INDUSTRY-SPECIFIC GUIDANCE, ADVICE AND SERVICE
APAN – AESTHETICS PRACTITIONERS ADVISORY NETWORK Please contact us for further details Ph: 07 5593 0360 Email: [email protected] to download an Application Form
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highereducation
APJ 18
an industry. How
do you believe
that the Bachelor
of Applied Health
Science (Clinical
Aesthetics) will
benefit the
aesthetics
industry?
Professor Hayek:
A degree program may appear not to be a possibility for you, but
are you aware of how the learning environment has changed? In
this article Professor Hayek discusses with us the opportunities
that the new Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical
Aesthetics) will bring to the graduates, what strengths it will
bring to the evolving aesthetics industry and how new tools are
changing learning models to better allow for flexible learning for
the modern student who may be juggling business and family
responsibilities.
APJ 1: Professor Hayek, as an academic you have
experience on how higher-learning programs can shape
Any procedure or
practice that can have
health implications
must be grounded on
s o u n d a c a d e m i c
knowledge. The new
aesthetic procedures
are moving towards
clinical practices as
i n g r e d i e n t s a n d
technology can now
be more far-reaching
into the body to
achieve better and
m o r e a d v a n c e d
outcomes. Observing
these changes, it is my
understanding and
belief that it is no
longer adequate to
learn these practices
j u s t a s a t r a d e
(predominantly as a
practical exercise) –
t hey need to be
underpinned with
credible science if
t h e y a r e t o b e
respected as evidence-
based practice both by
the consumer and the
regulators.
This premise is well
s u p p o r t e d b y
consumer studies. We
a r e s e e i n g t h i s
expectation driven by
consumer demand, as
they will not hesitate to go to a medical practitioner for even
microdermabrasion and skin needling if they feel that the practitioner
is more qualified. There is now strong evidence that this is happening
in growing numbers. I believe both from a consumer point of view, as
well as with regulators, the only way the aesthetics industry can
protect its future and continue to confidently offer and perform
advanced procedures is by understanding and embracing the need for
credible educational qualifications. As an example today's practising
registered nurses are required to have a tertiary qualification. This is
as a result of advances within the medical field. The same is happening
to aesthetics.
Unless these practices are entrenched in academic standards they will
be derailed. It is therefore important for the industry to take a closer
Taking a Fresh Look at HIGHER EDUCATION
look at where they are, who they are and where they want to be in the contexturalised with respect to a deeper understanding of the ageing
future. process and its implications on skin health.
The Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) Finally, our program is specifically engineered so that the graduate not
provides individuals and the industry as a whole the means by which only gains theoretical and practical skills, but the practical
they can redefine their perimeters. The program offers an academic components will be delivered in a simulated environment where they
structure, which envelops what currently exists and delivers it in a can perform all skin-management procedures to the tune of 720 hours
health and medical structure so that the practicum and the academic of hands-on practice. We believe that there is no other program that
constructs are well rounded in the same manner that health practices remotely matches the depth of knowledge and the comprehensive
are traditionally underpinned. skills development that this degree offers. In fact, we believe that we
offer 3-4-fold more practicum hours compared to other programs.
Our graduate attributes are clearly directed to develop a new aesthetic Graduates will be competent and skilled at a new level in all areas of
graduate with core skills that are now required of any healthcare clinical work, as well as advanced technologies and protocols. This
worker. This is a new level of standards that will benefit both the will allow them to move into clinical practice, not just with a higher
practitioner and the aesthetics industry to gain greater credibility, level of knowledge, but also competence on how to confidently apply
status and recognition, as graduates will be enable to deliver treatment their new skills into practice immediately at a level that will give them
outcomes to a much higher level. the recognition as leaders in their field.
This degree is unique in several areas.
First, our Human Biosciences are targeting more advanced My view of learning is that there should be no
knowledge in Anatomy and Physiology as well as pathophysiology separation, as previously, between the different styles. Learning is
presentations largely as manifested on the skin, so that the aesthetic learning and it is my philosophy and belief that learning has many
practitioner becomes well-grounded in normal body function so that facets on-line, access, face-to-face, self directed, group learning, they can identify what is abnormal. practicum as well as virtual live-classrooms. Technology now
provides us an array of opportunities to make learning available to Second, several units are developed with an in-depth perspective and anyone where historically, this was only possible for the privileged approach to health and wellness so that the graduate is well-versed and the few. Now new technology opens up learning to all walks of also in preventative management of skin conditions.life. The notion that learning is a by-product of a closed classroom
environment is diminishing rapidly and in fact in most cases, long Third, our program also includes the latest knowledge pairing in key gone.areas of anti-ageing principles so that skin conditions are
APJ 3: How do you view learning styles e.g. on-line, APJ 2: What is this degree's point of difference
face-to-face etc? What is the emerging contemporary compared to other programs?
learning model and why does it better support learners Professor Hayek:
to more successfully achieve their desired qualification?
Professor Hayek:
-
,
APJ 19
This new flexibility in accessing education now provides learners over more than a medical practitioner. It is also acknowledged that this is
so many more opportunities to assess learning pathways and also one or the fastest-growing industries. For this reason it is essential
undertake programs and courses that were not previously that a consolidated national approach takes place to govern the industry.
accessible. Effectively a modern learner can study, while still This should be the task of a national body to determine standard
having a diverse lifestyle – running a salon or clinic as well as guidelines that will redefine this industry.
managing a home and family. If they have the desire to expand their
education they will now have new tools to allow them to be able to
do so, which were not previously available. This flexibility has the
potential to rapidly change an industry, and those who are astute
will take advantage of these new opportunities.
The first two are required to buttress and support a Scope of Practice
through a positional document so that current and future clients of this
industry have an understanding what a practitioner can responsibly
deliver.
These can be in the form of self-regulations that are embedded in sound I believe that many that are coming from a education and training and will provide a good recipe for the industry to
practice-based background may question as to the value and need move forward, improve its credibility and recognition and interface for further formal education. This may cause a dilemma for them if better with healthcare practitioners.they have this perception. They need to understand that the speed of
new knowledge in technology as well as the speed of new scientific
knowledge is changing many industries, including this industry.
These factors are now propagating and pushing your industry to
improve its knowledge as a matter of necessity.
It is my view that any practitioner who offers services on skin
improvement and anti-ageing has the ethical, moral, as well as the
legal obligation as a duty of care, to upgrade their knowledge and
skills. It is no longer optional to stay true to the past principles and
practices. This is where evidence-based practice should be and
must be considered in everything we do with our clients.
Editor's Note: APAN is currently commencing proceedings in drafting
industry Codes. If you are interested in being part of this process or would like to
contribute to this process please contact the CEO, Tina Viney, on As I underlined earlier, I think the opportunity [email protected] or phone 07 5593 0360. We would love to hear from you
for the industry to really make something of itself and position itself as this needs to be an industry initiative where stakeholders can have input in the more prominently as part of the whole healthcare delivery system is shaping of their industry.very much due. After all, beauty therapists or aestheticians deal on
a daily basis with the largest organ in the body – the skin. It’s true
that clients will see their beauty therapist of aesthetician many times
These should include three key conduct-defining structures:
A Code of Ethics
A Code of Conduct
A Scope of Practice.
APJ 4: When it comes to having the right mindset how
can a potential student that has to juggle study with
numerous other obligations such as work and family
overcome obstacles when undertaking a degree
program?
Professor Hayek:
Professor Ray Hayek is the Executive Dean at the Australasian College of
Health and Wellness the institution that is delivering the new degree
program, the Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics) in
Sydney.
APJ 5: Do you see a need for the aesthetics industry to
established formalised standards, why, and how will
they help redefine the industry and protect its future?
Professor Hayek:
For further information about this degree please contact
Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali on
02 8587 8888 | [email protected]
www.tac.edu.au/highereducation
Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)
The Degree boasts a rigorous academic program built around health science supported by extensive clinical practice skills. It aims to deliver the latest in skills and knowledge to equip graduates for the exciting and rapidly changing aesthetics industry.
Reaching a new level of
PROFESSIONAL EXCELLENCEBachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical Aesthetics)
Take it to the next levelTake it to the next level
For further information about the degree please contact Head of Faculty Associate Professor Sinan Ali on 02 8587 8888. [email protected] | www.tac.edu.au/highereducation
Studying for a degree is now more attainable than you think
New PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT PROGRAMThe Australian College of Health and Wellness is now also offering PROFESSIONAL DEVELOPMENT COURSES for those who aspire for higher learning in skin science. If you would like to grow your knowledge on skin to a higher academic level why not consider undertaking comprehensive unit in:
Anatomy and Physiology of the SkinPathophysiology of the SkinSkin Differential Diagnosis and Clinical aesthetics and Dermal Therapy scope of practiceAesthetics Management of Common Skin Disorders
ENROL NOW! Limited places available for Semester 1
To register or for further information on these units contact [email protected] or call 1800 999 963
These units offered as a seminar series will give graduates an opportunity to gain the benefit of knowledge on the skin at a higher academic level as well as experiencing a learning environment that will open the door to a potential university degree. Should you wish to pursue a degree qualification with the Australasian College of Health and Wellness these units will provide the benefit credit points towards their degree.
businesssuccess
APJ 22
Having regular interaction with the beauty and aesthetics industry, it is which appropriate behaviour is its expression.
sad but also very true that we have so much to be desired when it comes
Julie Hyne is a salon and image etiquette trainer and we believe that her to manners and etiquette. This is an area that is sadly lacking in our
message and information is extremely valuable and often the missing industry. Several decades ago Beauty Therapy training included a
link to the improved success of a business. In this article she covers Finishing School that incorporated manners and etiquette, including
some of her five top strategies for client growth and retention.the correct way to greet someone, introduce them to someone else, as
well as posture, poise, body language, answering the phone and how to
write a courteous letter. We were even trained in table manners and
etiquette.
It would appear that etiquette is a lost discipline in the new “Facebook
era” when one can get away with poor grammar and even a lack of
courtesy.
I cannot tell you the amount of mail I receive with “Hi there” when people
know my name and signed off with just their first name. We deal with
over 6500 individuals in every State and Territory. It makes it somewhat
difficult to figure out who some individuals are when all they give us is
their first name. We have to go hunting email addresses to try and locate
their address and hopefully from there determine who they are.
When it comes to phone calls it is amazing how often messages do not
even receive a courtesy return call, and the sloppy way that some
individuals answer the phone with a tone of voice that suggests that you
are a nuisance and disturbed their peace. This should not happen
under any circumstance. Courtesy, first and foremost, is an attitude to
Do you “wow” your clients so much that they would never consider
leaving you? Many salons think they are creating a fabulous
experience for their clients, until they check their records and see who
hasn't been in for a few months, and find there are actually several
familiar names on that list. The worrying thing is when as the salon
owner you haven't even noticed!
Client attraction and retention is the key to maintaining a sustainable
business, and for making it grow. Clients who feel valued by attending
your salon will rebook and refer without thinking about it, so it's worth
you thinking about what you can do to keep them.
I read an interesting quote that went along the lines of People will sit
up and take notice of you if you will sit up and take notice of what
makes them sit up and take notice. Sound easy, so why don't we do it?
Impressing your clients is not always about telling them how
wonderful you are. It's about paying attention to them, wholly, solely
and completely when they come to see you. First impressions can
easily be manufactured as they only last for a few moments, but it's the
The best-kept SECRETS to CLIENT RETENTION AND GROWTH
By Julie Hyne
impressions you make while they are with you and when they leave present the technology and communicate the message of what it can
that you want to be mindful of. do in a way that motivates the client that create the impact and the
results.
I can’t tell you how many times I have walked past a treatment room
in my own salon to hear a staff member relaying everything that 5. Adjust your client information forms to include small pieces of
happened on the weekend, or about personal matters that really information that are unique and special to your client. Make sure these
shouldn't be brought up at all while at work. A client confined to a are reviewed each time the client is attending so that you can impress
treatment room is not there to be a sounding board for solving personal with your caring , thoughtful and targeted conversation.
issues.
Impression management needs to be something that you monitor all
Attention to detail costs nothing, and can go a long way to a client the time. Evaluate your team and how well they are creating strong
feeling like she is really important, a VIP to your business. It's the and lasting impressions with your clients. Are they presenting well,
golden rule of etiquette to be able to treat another person as you would practising positive body language and gestures when greeting and
want to be treated yourself. farewelling clients, how is their telephone manner when taking calls?
Do you have a policy for returning calls in a timely fashion? Are you a
Go out of your way to demonstrate respect, courtesy for clients of salon that actually phones to confirm bookings, or do you rely on a text
different ages and cultural backgrounds. They will return their message as confirmation? Texting eliminates the opportunity to
appreciation in kind. reconnect with your client and confirm small details if necessary that
makes her feel like she is special.
Listen to what your clients are telling you. If you are asking the right
questions, then there will be no end of valuable information you can Remember, the little things that provide that extra positive experience
use for not just prescribing and recommending other treatments and to the client that make them feel like a VIP can be the one thing that
products, but as a means to really impress your client next time she keeps them repeatedly coming to you.
does visit you. For example, what is her favourite drink, perfume,
what's happening in her own life that can give you an opportunity to
show care and interest? Does she prefer a certain room for her
treatment, an extra hand massage, what are the little things that allow
her to think WOW!
It's not good enough to be that busy you can’t take note of what makes
your clients sit up and take notice. This is your secret weapon for
continuing to impress, generate new business and solidify
relationships. It does all come down to being able to communicate
well, be good at listening and asking questions, so if that is something
that needs extra training on, then invest in it and your business will
thank you for it.
1. Treat your client as if she is the most important person in the
world. Surprise her with a gift, remember her favourite tea. Ask her
about her most treasured topic of conversation. Make her feel like she
can trust you and that you have her interests at heart.
2. Think about the little things you can do to make visiting your salon
a fabulous experience. Does your client need coins for parking
meters? Is there a carwash nearby that you can book her car into while
she is visiting you? What can you do to make her feel that you are the
most thoughtful person she knows?
3. Always use your client's name and be personal with her. Send out
birthday greetings with heart-felt messages. Sign them personally.
APAN has some excellent birthday cards that you can purchase.
Check them out on www.apanetwork.com under merchandising. I can
guarantee that they will keep your card on their bench for longer than
they keep a regurgitated letter that's the same as last year’s. Include a
small gift, bottle of her favourite wine, whatever will impress her and
make her feel like you have taken notice of what she likes.
4. Be courteous and kind. Manners and respect are not old fashioned.
They are very much in the now, and especially with technology
moving so fast. You can never anticipate the way a person feels, thinks
and acts when presented with new technology. It's the people who
Julie Hyne is the founder of Business4Beauty and offers Salon Image
and Etiquette training for salon owners and staff. She is the author of
Invaluable: what every salon owner wanting success needs to know.
You can contact Julie for a 30-minute free salon business appraisal and
get your salon in shape and achieving success. Julie can be contacted
on T: 0433 114 841, E: [email protected], W:
www.business4beauty.com
My five top strategies to building your business do include some very
tried and proven ways of keeping clients and attracting new ones,
because they are what business and people of good character have
been doing for years.
APJ 23
APJ 24
In a fast-evolving world a bird's-eye view can often help us identify
how the landscape is changing and the shifting dynamics that, when Today, many millions of beauty consumers around the world are examined, can alter our understanding and change our definition of talking to each other using a different language and terminology. what the world now wants from us and our services. Consumers are not interested in how we “classify” them, they
conceptualise beauty in terms of their needs. They are only interested The global economic downturn has shifted values and priorities in in the end result of what we can offer them. Can we make their skin consumers, and gaining an understanding of these changes should be looks younger, fairer or clearer? In fact, the universal starting point central to how we conceptualise our services in the beauty industry to for everyone today is me and my problem. This is quite a different meet with consumer expectations. lens to that used in the past, both by formulators and practitioners.
Beauty consumers are far less concerned with how we categorise In this article I would like to share some of these trends, and my them, the “wrapping”, the classification, the technology, the channel understanding of these are not based just on professional observation, or the segment we position them in. They are more concerned with but also on solid and credible research. what we can achieve with what we do. Traditionally, this has not been
the focus for the beauty industry as its prime objective was to “classify I was not at all surprised when I read a recent statement presented by the client” and then ensure they had a wonderful “experience” and the Diagonal Reports that the beauty industry and consumers are out “let-us-see” what outcomes and results can be achieved. This is no of sync. In fact, several other researchers have concluded the same. longer good enough – consumers want to know measurable outcomes, They stated that many beauty “professionals” are less informed on “what will my end result be”. This is because we are also now new developments that are happening in their industry, not to mention competing with the instant change that can be achieved by injectables. what consumers are now looking for. This should not be so, for as
such information is now presented through social media consumers To become more proficient with these more personalised consumer are less likely to trust our recommendation, as they will come to demands our theoretical knowledge and education needs to be stepped believe that our knowledge is out of date. up. We need to constantly update and develop new skills, determine
how to strategically combine technologies, utilise innovative I have to say that as I interact with the industry on a daily basis I can techniques, and even work with other professionals and disciplines as attest to the reality of that fact, and my mission is to support business a team in order to achieve the new consumer expectations and desired owners and therapists to not be part of these statistics. So here are just outcomes.some of the issues we need to take a closer look at on how our world is
changing. Let's start with consumer needs.
CONSUMER PERSPECTIVES
Major Global Shifts and How They Will Impact The Future By Tina Viney
globaltrends
THE WELLNESS INDUSTRY
THE LONELINESS EPIDEMIC
Another shift we are seeing is the growing
need of consumers to engage in practices
and procedures that minimise the
possibility of disease. Relaxation, anti-
stress treatments and wellness therapies
were traditionally found at the spa, but
this is no longer the case. The boundaries
between spa, skin clinic and medical
cosmetic clinic are becoming more and
more blurring. Peels, microdermabrasion
are no longer in the domain of the
traditional skin-therapy salon, nutritional
advice, wellness treatments are no longer
in the domain of spas.
Our clients want us to help them outsmart
their genes, and to achieve this we need
predictive, personalised, preventative
healthcare. According to Nasim Ashraf, spoke with a well-known and respected cosmetic doctor who told me
MD, of DNA Health Corp, this demand will transform the landscape how he was achieving amazing results with acne because he was
of healthcare over the next decade. working collaboratively with a nutritionist. He confessed to me that
when he was first told that “diet and gut health played a key role in Epigenetic testing is essentially the science of outsmarting your
acne,” he laughed in disbelief. But when he saw the results he was genes. Asraf points out that much of our wellbeing is not destiny and
amazed. “Even as doctors, if we want to achieve excellent skin can be influenced by environment. As personalised genetic testing
results, we can no longer work on our own,” he told me. This is an continues to get not only more sophisticated, but also more affordable,
amazing shift that is redefining aesthetics and skin therapy. it's possible to identify what the exact deficiencies are and mitigate
them through nutrition, lifestyle and wellness strategies. With this
knowledge we can substantially minimise and prevent the expression We use to die of old age, however, experts are warning that we'll be of potential diseases such as cancer, heart disease, Alzheimer's and dying of loneliness. Technology and demographic shifts are driving diabetes. an overarching sense of “aloneness” that wellbeing centres, salons
and spas will help to abate. Thirty years from now, 60% of households Epigenetic testing is already being performed in salons and spas. In will be single. In Stockholm, 64% of households are already single fact, at the past two APAN Conferences we conducted in Sydney and and in Amsterdam it is 60%. As an industry of touch we can combat Tasmania this year, epigenetic hair analysis was conducted on this trend, delivering connectedness in a world that has created a delegates, and there was so much excitement about the potential of dependence on screens for company. My massage therapist told me this modality with a salon, clinic or spa environment. This is now an just last week that she is amazed at the amount of lonely individuals uncomplicated and inexpensive treatment. that come to her because they crave a caring, non-sexual touch as more
and more are deprived of it. We need to remember that, and ensure Before the economic downturn there was a lot of talk of spa real estate, that the human touch is not totally replaced by technology within our but many of these projects crashed and burnt right along with the services, as this is very much a growing consumer need.economy. Now whole communities are being designed and branded
with wellness at their core.
This is the future and it has
arrived. Research released
at the 2014 Spa Summit
showed that this market is
now valued at over $100
b i l l ion . Mixed-use
p r o p e r t i e s , t h e
combination of wellness
centres/spas or skin clinics
p a r t n e r i n g w i t h
regenerat ive medical
p r a c t i t i o n e r s a n d
nutritionists are starting to
emerge as a potential,
viable, financial model in
this sector, although one
that still requires careful
p l a n n i n g a n d
understanding of i ts
nuances.
At a recent cocktail party I
APJ 25
THE EXPERIENCE
A MODERN SOLUTION
TECHNOLOGY ON FAST FORWARD
The benefits of optimisation of your existing website or having
a new one built are that they can help your business in the
following way:
IN CONCLUSION
your clients are doing the same. Today's consumer accesses between
70 - 80% of their information from the mobile devices. Just having a So what about the need for an “experience” – is that a dying trend? standard website is no longer enough as this may be too bulky when it No, it hasn't died, but it is re-emerging with a need for it to be truly connects to a mobile device. authentic. Developing an authentic, meaningful experience is a
rallying cry in unique salons and spas through wellness treatments,
but consumers are bored with duplication – they now seek the “can't
get anywhere else” experience, so more thought and planning needs to For this reason, recently APAN launched a new Corporate Platinum be put into your “experience” if it is going to be a drawcard. Indeed, Plus membership classification that offers our members the most your “experience” should have your own trademark on it, and this advanced tools, including a specifically designed mobile website that does not mean it has to be complicated, but it has to demonstrate deliver unprecedented results. These tools are modern and designed thought and authenticity. For example, my massage therapist after my for flexibility and speedy communication and are helping salons and treatment served me with a deliciously chilled coconut water, while businesses achieve fast and efficient client interaction that is helping emphasising the health benefits of the drink. It was a welcoming them grow their database and business through cost-effective surprise to the traditional water or herb tea that was much appreciated promotions. This Client Acquisition Program also includes a month-and left a memorable impression on me. by-month comprehensive report that measures your outcomes. Additionally, this membership includes two comprehensive business
coaching sessions to ensure you are utilising the most up-to-date
According to Paul Price, a retail and marketing expert, good and bad promotional strategies.
technology will not only remain at the forefront of our world, but it
will embed itself even deeper, altering the way we do everything, from The changing on-line environment now offers enormous
how we shop to how companies market to us. Price warns that we opportunities for businesses to capture new consumer attention, but as
should not be seduced by bright and shiny objects. He stressed that we Paul Price stated, it is not an issue of flashy devices. On their own, they
should not let the technology drive our decisions. Instead, consider could turn out to be costly mistakes, so it is important that you have
your technical department should be driven by your marketing your performance measured to determine how successfully it is
department so your IT people are driven by your marketing planners, running.
not the other way around.
APAN's technicians have expertise in measuring your performance
While emails were the most common medium for communicating and offer a report on the performance of your system. If it is working
during the past decade, we now know that the most effective way to well for you then we would recommend you continue with it. What
communicate is through mobile devices. Just think, how many emails we can still offer you is business coaching on how you can create value
do you receive each day and how many do you leave unread? Perhaps for your client, how to identify and develop your unique brand of
services and product and ways to optimise your “unique
experience”. We also have over 45 documents that have been
professionally written that are available for purchase so that you
can streamline your operations with the minimum of fuss and
expense.
On the other hand, if your system is not performing well, we can
redevelop your website and offer you a modern, proven and
efficient mobile website that is guaranteed to increase traffic to
your business.
Capture consumer attention quickly
Elicit client interaction e.g. calls, bookings
Maintain performance information
Makes the most of your information
Turbo-charge a good site to provide you with better results
A good program should be both highly effective and cost efficient
and can lead to some amazing business success.
Change should not be considered as a threat, as with it, it brings
amazing new opportunities.
A survey that was conducted on the world's top 500 companies to
determine winning attributes the number one common
denominator that all successful businesses had was an expectation
for success. This attitude is so powerful. A positive mindset that
focuses on the new possibilities rather than the limitations will
always identify winning strategies to overcome every obstacle.
APJ 26
APJ 28
attributed to its high mineral salts, which contain more than 25 Close to the Atlantic coast in Southern France you will find the region
essential trace elements as of Bearn, which is famous for its mineral-rich waters renowned for
their medicinal properties. These waters nourish the springs of Salies-
de-Bearn, a health centre that has been established since 1857.
and have an amazing regulating effect on skin-barrier
t function. The therapeutic effect of the Salies-de-Bearn hermal spring waters is
These extraordinary spring waters contain the original rich mineral
composition of primitive oceans, when they were pure and free from
pollution. This is only possible because the spring feeds from
subterraneous waters that run under the Pyrenees through mineral
layers formed by the slow evaporation of the oceans thousands of
years ago. The waters have passed through a pure and clean layer that
contains all the richness of the sea where life originated.
ions (sodium, potassium, calcium,
magnesium, manganese, selenium, silica, zinc, iron and copper).
These minerals are perfect in proportion (especially in the case of
magnesium)
The Power of Healing WatersRestoring and Balancing Sensitive Skin
The Power of Healing WatersRestoring and Balancing Sensitive Skin
AQUATHERM CAPTURING THE
MINERAL GOODNESSNurturing sensitive, reactive and ageing
skin conditions
PRE-BIOTIC SUGARS
CERAMIDES
LIFT-COLLAGEN THERAMAL
FACTORAQUATHERM PROFESSIONAL
SYSTEM
A Q U A T H E R M ' S H I G H
TOLERANCE REVITALISING The professional range consists of a CREAMspecial kit – the Aquatherm Recovery O 2
Pack and includes:
ANTI-REDNESS FACTOR
Capturing and harnessing these amazing
mineral properties, Skeyndor formulated their
incredible AQUATHERM Skincare range that
is especially suited for sensitive, reactive and
ageing skin. Soothing, cooling and nurturing
all forms of irritation and inflammation,
Aquatherm offers immediate relief while
supporting and regulating the skin's barrier
function that is usually disturbed in sensitive,
mature and menopausal skin.
It is a well-established fact that low-level
inflammation is part of the ageing process and
this is particularly prevalent with menopausal
skin. AQUATHERM treatments are formulated
to deliver immediate calming and soothing
properties, which strengthens the skin's
defence barrier and improves hydration levels.
The mineral-rich formulations rebalance the
skin's pH, improving its immunity and
protecting it from external irritations.
Natural pre-biotic sugars that stimulate the
proliferation of beneficial cutaneous flora
further support the skin's immunity,
rebalancing its pH and protecting it for the
invasion of damaging micro-organisms.
In sensitive skin the main lipids of the extra-
cellular matrix that hold the cells together are
often depleted. This deficit or imbalance is a
common problem with sensitive skin. As if this
protective mechanism is disturbed it renders
the skin vulnerable to external pollution and
environment toxins.
Formulated with pure marine
collagen (99%), this product Skeyndor Aquatherm professional system improves sens i t iv i ty and provides the perfect targeted solution for salons firmness. Collagen and trace and clinics to address stubborn skincare elements are combined to concerns that manifest irritation, inflammation improve and protect the skin's and sensitivities such as couperose, eczema and defence barrier and restore skin psoriasis. Even the most challenging tone to achieve a cosmetic conditions can receive benefit from “lifting” effect on skin with Aquatherm, which comes in a professional wrinkles and flaccidity.system, as well as effective homecare products
to further support the skin.
This amazing treatment cream
will rebalance and improve
hydration levels in all skin types An amazingly soothing re-mineralising and immediately soothe and cool complex. It contains a high concentration of irritated skin. Formulated with a plant extracts with a regulating effect on tissue unique blend of synergistically permeability, soothing and calming irritation c o m b i n e d i n g r e d i e n t s t o and sensitivity.
APJ 29
TRY-BEFORE-YOU-BUY SPECIAL OFFER
The successful applicants, however, must meet
with specific criteria. If you would like your business to be
considered please complete the details below and email to [email protected] or post to: Entries close by 31 January 2015.
Due to popular demand, Vogue Image Group have
extended this special offer until the end of January
2015.
The success of Skeyndor Mesoscience is so profound that
Vogue Image Group, the Australian distributors – are providing two salons/clinics with a unique opportunity to a
TRY-BEFORE-YOU-BUY SPECIAL OFFER to experience this technology and see how it can help them increase their business profits from day one.
Vogue Image Group
68 Milton Parade
MALVERN VIC 3144
strengthen and rebalance reactive and irritated skin conditions. The Aquatherm products leave the skin soothed, refreshed and supple,
main active ingredients include Q10 – a co-enzyme with significant making them ideal for drier skin types. At the same time, the
anti-oxidant properties that biologically protects cells against free- Skeyndor Aquatherm professional and homecare products target the
radical damage and soothes skin with persistence redness. Also signs of premature ageing.
includes mineral-rich spring waters, pre-biotic oligosaccharides to
defend the skin's immunity, ceramides, pumpkin extract and dermo-
saccharides.
Rebalancing Gentle Cream Fl
Deep Moisturising Cream FII This delightful cream mask is formulated with perfluorocarbons to
Revitalising Anti-Ageing Creamimprove absorption of oxygen in the skin and revitalise the tissues
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APJ 66
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cosmeceuticaltheory
APJ 32
When it comes to skincare the study of Cosmeceuticals and how CONSIDERATIONS AND QUESTIONS TO ASKthey work on the skin is a relatively new area that progressively
is starting to attract objective evidence-based research.
Meanwhile, as aesthetic therapists, we are now required to make
choices based on ingredients, so determining how they actually
work on the skin is critical, both for enhanced treatment results
and for client recommendations.
Following from a seminar delivered in August at the recent APAN
Aesthetics Conference in Sydney, we asked Terry Everitt to
provide us with a more detailed article based on his lecture at the
conference. As always, Terry gave an impressive download of
information titled The Cosmeceutical Face, where he presented
scientific-based underpinning knowledge to understand what
needs to be overcome for ingredients to penetrate the skin. This
was provided along with a little chemistry to think through in
making your own decision on effectiveness and mostly to ask
questions as to 'how does this product work?'
There is simply no way you can have an encyclopaedic knowledge of
skincare ingredients and their specific efficacy of action. Even if you
did have such knowledge, this is not the only area you need to know
about. It is not just the individual ingredient and action. You need to be
concerned with how this ingredient works with other ingredients in
the total product – how much of the ingredient is in the product and is it
all used on the skin or in the product itself? What of the molecular size
of the ingredient – is it actually too big to get into the skin? Is the
ingredient in the correct chemical structure for the skin? What about
the concentration of the ingredient and what happens to it when it is
included in the formula – is it diluted in the total product? Will it get to
the right site for action, or will it just be held in any of the natural skin
defence barriers?
Does the ingredient need a certain pH to be effective? If so, how does
this happen, given the differences in pH within the skin, let alone the
pH differences in the total product?
There are many individual questions you need to consider regarding
the ingredient in question and then the biggest questions begin
regarding the skin you are applying the product to skin condition, age, Skincare products have come a long way from the initial cold cream-
thickness? How does the multitude of individual differences of skin type formulations that sufficed for both cleansing and moisturising.
effect the viability of the product and its ingredients?Today there is an amazing array of ingredients available for use in
skincare products and the advertising and marketing of such would How informed are you with the skincare products you are using and
lead you to believe that everything in a product will do absolute recommending to your clients? Do you blindly believe everything you
wonders. How much of this is true? Many scientific claims are made are told – do you question to find answers? Perhaps part of the
about products, but often there is very little scientific proof of the problem may be that you are not even sure what questions to ask.
product's effect.
The COSMECEUTICAL FACEBy Terry Everitt BHSc, M.Ed
APJ 67
Actually, you probably already know some of the answers, but
perhaps you do not 'connect the dots' of information silos. To achieve It is not an easy task to bypass all of the innate protective functions of this you will need to think about the skin structure and the barriers it the epidermis. There are of course only three ways:provides and think about how skincare ingredients get around these (through the cell membrane)barriers. You are already aware that the skin is great at keeping water
(between the cells) and follicular, or out, otherwise you would never survive having a shower, bath or a
(more technically) through the hair follicle swim. So if the skin is so great at keeping water out, how do your and pores products manage to get in?
Here we must think of the purpose of the ingredient – what is it
supposed to do and where is it needed to perform its action? From this Does your product penetrate or absorb into the skin – is there a
difference? Let's look at that.
Skin penetration represents the amount of a topically applied product
that exists between the stratum corneum and the stratum basale (or
germinativum), thus effecting only the epidermis. On the other hand
skin absorption occurs when the topically applied product breaks
through the skin layers to reach the bloodstream. That means the
product gets to the dermis. Whether the product ingredient becomes a
risk is determined by what occurs after absorption (i.e. does it remain
in the dermis, or filter through into the bloodstream). In that instance
we should be speaking about product penetration and not product
absorption.
This very small depth of skin is approx. 20% of skin volume, yet
contains 80% of total skin barrier function along with being
biologically active.
How many individual functions does the skin have? Sure you can
recite the list from your original studies, but this is only the beginning. comes the mode of delivery – is it needed inside the cell (intracellular) At the moment I can think of at least 15 and all functions of the stratum and if we can get it inside the cell wall, what of all the other cells under corneum alone; such as antimicrobial, antioxidant storage, biosensor the top layer. The ingredient will have to get through the cell of meteorological conditions, psycho-sensory, social communication, membrane, through the cell, out the other side to get to the next cell. water and chemical storage and filter, chemical mediator, cohesion Otherwise only the top layer of cells would be affected. Very little force, desquamative, mechanical, inflammation initiator and penetration of lower layers occurs with this transport method.controller, regulator of innate and adaptive immunity, permeability
fluxuator, protective defence against carcinogenesis, photo-ageing A more plausible way is to have the ingredient go around the cell and electromagnetic radiation.membrane in the interstitial, or extracellular space. This space is also
part of the barrier function and is primarily a lipid structure with Then we have the other layers of the epidermis to contend with and all multiple laminar layers, made of long and short chains of various the biochemistry going on in the different layers.ceramides, free fatty acids and cholesterol.
MAJOR PATHWAYS OF PENETRATION
1. Intracelluar
2. Intercellular
3. Transappendageal
PENETRATION OR ABSORPTION
STRATUM CORNEUM
If you have a water-based ingredient it simply will not work here – Is the ingredient in question in the correct configuration? This has
you already know that water and oil do not mix well unless helped. been another confusing area by the marketers in trying to push a
What help does your water-based ingredient need to be transported particular product. Is it a 'cis' or a 'trans' isomerisation?
along these lipid pathways? It will need to be either, encapsulated and
protected, or somehow become attached to lipids. This you need to This relates to the atom structural placement of the molecule or its
know about and ask questions of. 'chirality' (mirror image).
Finally,what about the hair follicle – this is a nice big hole in the skin
so bigger molecules can get in this way, right? Actually, no – this is
not correct as the lining of the follicle is the same epithelia as the
'outside' skin surface. Added to this, the sebaceous gland is attached
being the sebum producer, so possibly even more lipids will be present
here than in the intercellular space of the upper epidermal layers.
If that is the answer then what was the question? It is the base question
you need to ask of your supplier as to how the product works. What
chemistry is used to allow the ingredient into the skin, to overcome all
of the skin's barrier functions and be transported to where it needs to be
to do its work, without being changed or diluted in the bottle or in the
skin?
While the marketing material may say 'contains 10% of the active,
which may be true in terms of how much was put into the bottle; This actually does make a difference. A nice example is Retinoic Acid, however how much of this comes out of the bottle and then how much the trans is used topically, while the 'cis' is used internally – that is to of that is actually used in the skin? The dilution factor may be a great say the difference between Retinoic Acid and 13 cis isotretinoin, one as the individual ingredient mixes with all the other ingredients in better known in Australia by the trade name Roaccutaine. Now there the total product. One other point to note here is, how do all the other is a difference in effect. ingredients affect the ingredient you are thinking about? The active
concentration of the end product is important – more so than the What of the pH? The skin will try to neutralise the product to bring it concentration that was put in to begin with. back to pH balance. This pH balance changes in the various layers of
Here this is a 'cis' configuration meaning same
side. If you bend the molecule in half
lengthways, both halves be 'even'. Notice at the
top, both sides have three Hydrogens and one
Carbon and the bottom both having one
Hydrogen each.
PURE CHEMISTRY IS THE ANSWER This example indicates a 'trans' configuration
(meaning other side). If you bend the molecule
in half lengthways, the two sides are uneven.
Here the top part has only one Hydrogen on one
side with three Hydrogens and a Carbon on the
other. The bottom part of the molecule is also
'uneven', with three Hydrogens and a Carbon on one side and only one
Hydrogen on the other.
APJ 34
the epidermis with the stratum corneum being approx. 5.5 pH, with the shape of a cube with a surfactant liquid crystaline phase that the
stratum spinosum and germinativum layers being at 7 pH. Does the epidermal lipids dissolve, releasing the contents. Solid lipid matrix
ingredient need to be at a particular pH to be effective and how does (SLN) is an encapsulation of liquid lipids that remain solid at body
the skin attempt to modify the pH affect on the efficacy of the temperature – these have an occlusive capacity with the capacity of a
ingredient? gradual breakdown.
Another thought to consider has to do with the molecular weight Fullerenes, on the other hand, are small ball structures composed of
(MW) or size of the ingredient. It was thought that anything over a only an even number of carbon atoms. Dependent on where the
MW of 500 D (measured in Daltons) was too big to penetrate. This ingredient needs to go, the carrier encapsulation can be made to break
come about from incorrect reading of a report by Bos & Meinardi down in the various skin layers to effect the target. Is this true of your
(2000). This myth was proved incorrect by the work of Roberts et al product, or is the ingredient encapsulated so it is too solid to break
(2013) who showed that larger MW molecules can penetrate the skin. down where you need it to be, or is it too fluid so it simply stays on the
Luckily, however, most individual ingredients are less than the 500D stratum corneum surface.
anyhow. You don't really have to worry too much about MW, although
it is a factor as many ingredients (once combined to other multiple
molecules) may be too big for skin penetration. What is now a common technique in serious skincare is the use of
precursor molecules that have an effect downstream to the target. This
allows bigger molecule materials to form in the skin. A classic The use of nanotechnology has helped the advance of skincare example of this is the end result of wanting to get collagen into the efficacy and while there is no universally accepted definition of what skin. We cannot get collagen into a bottle so that we can put it into the
is 'nano' it is generally accepted that it denotes something smaller than skin for the obvious reason of size (and a host of other concerns). So to -9 100 nanometres (nm – 10 – one billionth), not to be confused with get collagen production going, we start downstream of the pathway
-6micrometre (µm 10 one millionth). and put in ascorbic acid, which is required to provide hydroxylation of
lysine and proline, which in turn help to make procollagen strands. Microemulsions have been incredibly successful, with an array of There are then a number of other processes needed to finally produce structures now available to encapsulate ingredient molecules. collagen. Without the ascorbic acid at the beginning, collagen Liposomes perhaps are the most well-known and are made from production would not be possible. We know that while ascorbic acid is phospholipids, with Phosphatidylcholine being a favourite as it is required, this poses problems of stability, acidity in the product and found naturally in the skin so is bio-identical. irritations on the skin, so we go a few more steps downstream in the
process. We use a stabilised form of ascorbic acid such as the ascorbyl Transfersomes are made with a deformable membrane that allows for phosphate salts such as Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate or Magnesium a more flexible transport of active ingredients. Cubosomes are in the Ascorbyl Phosphate. We know these are not as effective as using pure
DOWNSTREAM ADAPTATION
MICRO NANO
APJ 35
ascorbyl acid, yet we also know that the body will break away the two Another exciting array of enzymes are used as Tissue Inhibitors of
minerals either side of the ascorbyl molecule releasing the active, Metalloproteinases (TIMPs) that inhibit other enzymes known as
which then does what we wanted without the issues normally Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs), which are enzymes that break
encountered with ascorbic acid. This is down streaming. down proteins.
While there are approx. 28 known MMPs, the main three concerned
with in skincare are MMP1 (collagenase), MMP 3 (Stromelysin) and Another classic example is with proteins. Proteins are too big to get MMP 9 (Gelatinase). These are responsible for the breakdown of into the skin via a skin product, so we use the smaller molecules – collagen, elastin and glycosaminoglycans. peptides that build into proteins. The peptide itself at times is also too
big so we go 'backwards' again in size to amino acids. Using a When you think this through, you can see that while we need MMPs, combination of amino acids we can then create the peptide, which in we don't need too much of them as they will do what they do – reduce turn creates the protein. collagen, elastin, etc. If we need to build up these structural fibres then
we can inhibit them, but just how much is enough? No one really As you are aware, there are many peptides being used in current knows. This differs greatly in wound healing as opposed to normal skincare formulations. Some have scientific evidence of effectiveness homeostatic dermal functioning.and some do not. Generally speaking, however, peptides can be
grouped into four major classifications of action signal,
neurotransmitter (excitation or inhibitory), carrier or enzyme
inhibitors. I hope this article, while perhaps a bit confusing for you here and there,
actually has helped in getting you thinking more about the products
is a synthetic signal peptide made of the amino acids lysine- you use. Do you really know much about them – do you know them
from a scientific point of reference or just from a marketing point of threonine-threonine-lysine-serine, which has multiple effects as it view? If a client asked 'how exactly does this product work?' can you stimulates collagen I, III and VI, fibronectin, elastin and truly answer? glycosaminoglycan production. A variation of this peptide is Pal-
KTTKS, better known by its trade name Matrixyl – here KTTKS is If you are to be taken seriously, it is no longer sufficient to only have joined with palmitic acid. the answer as 'it gets down into the skin' type response. How does it get
down into the skin? What does it actually do – and how can it do what is a non-irritating, comparable alternative to
you say it does. Is it really possible to do what you claim it does and retinol in tricking the skin into thinking it is broken down too much
how do you know that anyhow? collagen during the catabolic process and thus triggers an increase in
collagen synthesis.As skincare products increasingly become more scientific and have
segmental efficacy, you will need to know much more about the is an inhibitor neuropeptide product to be able to answer the consumer's ever-increasing quest for
chain that mediates inflammation. knowledge as to what they are using. If you want clients to use your
products rather than what is cheaper down the road, then you need to
be the professional source of information, not just the purveyor of is another neuropeptide that blocks marketing, meaningless jargon. You face threats from the mass-the formation of the SNARE complex in the pre-synaptic membrane; market products sold from a suitcase, threats from the department ACh release is minimised, wrinkle contractions are lessened and store, supermarket and chemist with skin products. Mostly you will expression lines are softened (the active is so called 'Botox in a soon face threats to your market share by those in skincare with a bottle'). scientific basis of knowledge that truly can provide professional
skincare advice, based on objective analysis of client concern and skin increases Heat Shock Protein, in particular presentation, combined with understanding of product efficacy to HSP70. Heat Shock Proteins are those required for the efficient address those concerns. folding of protein strains which prevents unwanted aggregation that
then mutates. HSP also help in protein transport across the cell “It is often not the ingredients in a product, but the claims in labelling membrane. The number that appears after HSP is the molecular or advertising that determine whether a product will be classified as a weight of the peptide (which also gives indication of function).cosmetic or a drug – in effect you are what you claim you are.” Albert
Kligman 1998.
The use of enzymes is also big business in serious skincare. However
these need to be approached with caution as it is a fine balancing act Bos J.D. Meinardi M. H. 2000. 'The 500 Dalton rule for the skin between too little (therefore not having any real effect) and too much penetration of chemical compounds and drugs'. (having too much effect, which can be a bad thing). Experimental Dermatology, Vol. 9. pp: 165169.
Bolzinger. M. Briançon. S. Pelletier. J. Chevalier. Y 2012. 'Penetration of drugs through skin, a complex rate-controlling membrane'. Current is used to increase lipid structure, in particular it works in the Opinion in Colloid & Interface Science. Vol. 17. No. 3. pp. 156-165.enzymatic cascade converting lanosterol to cholesterol. Roberts, D. Mekenyan, O. Dimitrov, O. Dimitrova, G. 2013. 'What
determines skin sensitization potencymyths, maybes and realities. initiates the crosslinking of collagen and elastin Part 1. The 500 molecular weight cut-off' Contact Dermatitis. Vol. 68. strands. pp. 32-41.
on the other hand is required to form ceramides.
PEPTIDES AS DOWNSTREAM PRECURSORS
CONCLUSION
KTTYS
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide
,
Acetyl Hexapeptide -8 (Argireline)
Acetyl Octapeptide-3 SNAP 3
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-22 –
BIOLOGICAL CATALYSTS PRECURSORS
REFERENCES
β-hydroxymethylglutaryl- coenzyme A reductase (HMG-CoA reductase)
Lysyl oxidase
Serine palmitoyltransferase – (a condensation of serine and
palmitoyl CoA)
s
APJ 36
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APJ 38
Established as a reputable Cosmetic Medicine, Laser and Skin We interviewed Deb Farnworth-Wood, the brains behind the
Rejuvenation franchise clinic model, the Australian Skin Clinics brand and owner of the Australian Skin Clinics, and asked her for
are experiencing unprecedented growth with the constant information on the new training facility, what it offers and who
expansion of their network through various franchise clinics would be a good candidate to benefit from this training.
throughout Australia.
APJ 1: Deb, can you please share with us about the As new franchisees are coming on board the demand for exciting launch of the Australian Skin Clinics Academy qualified and competent staff is becoming a challenge, and so to and its goals over the next 12 months?ensure and maintain the necessary training standards the Deb: Australian Skin Clinics recently
launched their own training
facility.
thSeptember 11 saw the official
launch of the ASC Aesthetics
Academy at their newly appointed
premises in Bundall on the Gold
Coast with a well attended and
vibrant cocktail party. The new
facility boasts state-of-the art
equipment and training rooms,
and a variety of unique training
programs to sui t ex ist ing
professionals who wish to
i m p r o v e t h e i r s k i l l s a n d
knowledge to a more clinical level,
as well or for seasoned industry
professionals who have been out
of the workforce and wish to return
to a more excit ing career
opportunity.
We recognised early on as we grew that we had an opportunity
to change the way in which training
took place in the cosmetic and aesthetic
industry. We tell all our job applicants
that we retrain them regardless of their
skills and experience because there is
so much misinformation out there and
the quality of training currently
available is actually very variable, with
not enough emphasis placed on
supervised, practical training. As a
result, The Aesthetics Academy was
born.
We have been expanding so quickly
and the timing was right to be proactive
and fill a gap in the market by offering
practical experience to enable Beauty
Therapists who wish to take that extra
step into the world of laser technology.
Our academy provides us the added
advantage of being a natural
recruitment source for our own highly
t ra ined s tudents , wi th career
o p p o r t u n i t i e s f o r s u c c e s s f u l
candidates.
Australian Skin Clinics launches the
A modern approach to skills development in Cosmetic Medicine and Skin Rejuvenation
ASC AESTHETICS ACADEMY
many women may not feel confident in their skills at this point in their The team at Australian Skin Clinics have spent over 18 years honing
lives, or may feel that technology has moved on without them, we our systems, protocols and procedures and in doing so we have
believe we can set them back on track with their careers. developed a culture where team members are passionate and
dedicated in the delivery of high-quality treatments within our clinics.
As our society evolves, more and more Australian women are going We have developed the Australian Skin Clinics Standard, which has
back to work after having children and the nest being empty, and set the benchmark in the industry, and it is for this reason that we have
Australian Skin Clinics recognises the challenges that these women become an employer and trainer of choice.
face when rejoining the workforce, and we don't want a gap in their
work history to stop their chances of enjoying a professional career
with our industry.
The Australian Skin Clinic scholarships are offered through The We believe mums are great workers and we have a range of flexible
Aesthetics Academy and are available to candidates with a Diploma in positions to suit all types of experience and availability. Returning to
Beauty Therapy or a Certificate IV. The course is specifically for work after children or a career break should not prevent mums from
therapists who are ready to take that next step in their career, and who getting back into the work force.
are looking to have a new set of skills added to their portfolio. We are
also interested in mature age therapists returning to work post-
children.
The type of applicants we are looking for must be eager to learn,
possess excellent communications skills and truly believe in The Aesthetics Academy will be providing practical courses for delivering the ultimate customer service and achieving the best Dermal and Beauty Therapists who wish to move into higher-end results. Having confidence in the quality services we provide as a technologies and away from traditional beauty. We are offering clinic is essential, and this program has been designed to help concentrated training with highly experienced trainers in an candidates achieve this through advanced training to develop and environment that it is structured to reflect a real world clinic rather enhance their skills in understanding skin conditions and client than a training school. This is particularly important in Queensland desires. where there are steep practice requirements to obtain laser licensing
that cannot normally be achieved quickly in an everyday salon or
clinic.
Across Australia the laser industry governance varies, with
Queensland having the highest regulation requirements. Australian
Skin Clinics uses the knowledge and requirements outlined by the
Queensland regulations, and the advice and research conducted by our
very own medial team to develop the Australian Skin Clinics Standard
for training. In Queensland the laser industry is governed by strict
Radiation Health Guidelines, which require the completion of a Laser
Safety Course and an application to be made for a Laser Hair Training
Licence.
One day including application for Laser
Hair Training Licence (Dates currently available from October, 2014)
Six days. This course
begins in February 2015 (Note: Turn-around time for laser licences in
Queensland from Radiation Health is between 6-12 weeks).
Successful completion of competencies for this course will
result in you being qualified for a Full Laser Hair Removal License
and an opportunity to start your professional career at a suitable
Australian Skin Clinics location.
This is a very exciting program we are running at Australian
Skin Clinics! We know that there are a number of people out there
who have previously worked as Beauty Therapists – perhaps before
having children, or having time out of the industry for other reasons.
We place a lot of value in their experience and maturity, and while
APJ 2: Describe to us what you are looking for in
potential candidates for the ASC Scholarship?
Deb:
APJ 6: How will these programs benefit the industry,
while also meeting with Australian Skin Clinics’ staffing
needs?
Deb:
APJ 3: Explain to us the training program that these
candidates can expect to undertake and what skills will If you would like to contact the Australian Skin Clinics to discuss they gain from this program?franchising opportunities or training options with the ASC Deb:Aesthetics Academy please contact 1300 303 014 or visit
www.ozskin.com/franchise or www.ozskin.com
For successful candidates from the Aesthetics Academy we will
run the Australian Skin Clinics Laser Course over three stages:
1. Application and Interview
2. Laser Safety Course:
3. Laser Hair Removal Training Course:
APJ 4: What about career/job opportunities?
Deb:
APJ 5: Tell us also about the Return-to-Work program
and who is an ideal candidate for this program?
Deb:
APJ 39
medicalconference
from internal to appearance and, of course, the strong content of the This year's A5M Anti-Ageing and Aesthetics Conference held in
all-important preventative approach that brings much hope to a August in Melbourne was once again a great success. As world-class
growing ageing and ailing society. leaders presented an amazing conference program that comprised of
two streams – internal medicine that was based around the theme of
World-renowned Integrative Medical Practitioner and internationally Stress and Ageing – Taking Theory to Practice and the Aesthetic
recognised natural therapies expert Dr Heyman is Program Director of Stream, which covered numerous topics and techniques on the latest
Integrative and Metabolic Medicine at The George Washington in appearance-enhancement techniques from the latest bio-stimulant
University, USA. Dr Heyman shared advanced research and clinical injectables, threads and laser, LED and other technological
data on the Hypocortisol state and the long-term effects of stress on the advancements, and the scientific findings for the benefit of their use.
brain and immune system.
The event was facilitated by Dr Mark Donohoe and A5M President Dr
Dr Heyman revealed scientific updates on Rg3, Nicotinomide, Nathan Francis, who both in their own style added spice and their
Riboside and Tocotrienols as representing the cutting edge of herbal personal comments to some of the incredible topics that were
medicines and their use in stress-related treatment protocols. The presented. There is something very personable and welcoming about
issue of stress and stress management was addressed A5M Conference without taking away from the seriousness of the
comprehensively from new findings on the causative reasons such as scientific and evidence-based content, but I personally find that what
the dangers of accumulative stress and how our modern, fast-moving is unique about the A5M events is the diversity of topics they cover,
and changing world can contribute to
mental and emotional overwhelm and
the systemic impacts that it can have.
Dr James LaValle, internationally
recognised Clinical Pharmacist, Board
Certified Clinical Nutritionist and
Naturopath, discussed research
relating to the potential metabolic
impact of Nutrient Depletion through
P o l y P h a r m a c y o n M e t a b o l i c
Syndrome and Co-morbidities.
LaValle extended insights into
exercise, overtraining and hormonal
and immune dysregulation that can
occur with intense exercise. He spoke
about the “brain on fire” and the impact
of stress on the nervous system and the
brain, inflammation and how these can
alter the architecture of the brain.
A5M Stages Another Successful Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medical Conference
APJ 40
Dr Donohoe, Dr Francis, Dr Khattar, Helen Anton, Dr Heyman, & Dr Lavalle
Dr James Lavalle
APJ 41
Both speakers identified and presented biochemistry and
nutritional advances in mitigating the impact of stress in
cellular damage. They also identified the need for a more
detailed approach to diagnosis that looks beyond the
conventional and traditional parameters to more detailed
biochemical changes in the body.
Dr Mark Newman presented new research presentation
revealing a comprehensive model for measuring adrenal
hormones, relating to the HPA-axis puzzle, including
measurement of a diurnal-free cortisol pattern along with
cortisol metabolites.
World-renowned adrenal expert James Wilson PhD
Naturopath provided clinical updates on Toxicity of the
Adrenal Glands and why the unique structure of these
glands makes them more vulnerable to pharmaceutical and
non-pharmaceutical substances.
This would have to be one of the best conferences I have ever attended. Whether you are a medical practitioner, nurse, dermal clinician or aesthetic therapist, this event should be a
priority for you to attend. The diversity and amazing information presented will give you a new appreciation of where medicine is heading and how it can interface and also benefit
appearance medicine. The fusion of diverse disciplines has the power to achieve much more through the new, emerging regenerative and integrative health and medical model that is
providing answers to questions where the fragmented approach failed.
Dr Wilson also revealed the effect of stress on the drop in DHEA
relative to Cortisol termed Pregnenolone Steal and the
recommended clinical practices. Dr Wilson is recognised as
the world’s leading authority of adrenal fatigue
Australian Healthcare educator and Clinical Nutritionist
Warren Maginn revealed current research on the importance of
Methylation to our Stress Response as we age, with updates
indicating multiple avenues whereby adequate cellular
methylation capacity is required to maintain CRF, ACTH, and
ultimately Cortisol production. We were delighted that Warren
Maginn was also able to be a speaker at the APAN Conference
that followed in Sydney on August 26, directly after the Sydney
Spa and Beauty Expo.
Paul Taylor, who holds qualifications in nutrition and exercise
physiology demystifying the complex 'neuro-symphony' of
stress, presented a compelling lecture on the cascade of
autonomic, neuroendocrine, metabolic and immune system responses that lead to psychiatric disorders and physical
disorders such as Alzheimer's, depression, obesity and insulin
resistance.
Covering new advances in Aesthetic Medicine, stem cells, PRP
and injectable techniques included Dr Maria Agnelo-Khattar
(UAE), who is renowned as an expert worldwide in minimally
invasive aesthetic procedures. Dr Khattar shared updates on
advanced minimally invasive techniques for facial rejuvenation
using soft fillers and lipolysis for facial symmetry.
Cosmetic surgeons Dr Simon Rosenbaum and Dr Michael
Zacharia spoke on new techniques in improving the facial
contour through the new minimalistic global approach and
techniques, as well as thread lifting with demonstrations.
Comprehensive workshops followed delivering further skills in
the application of techniques in a clinical environment.
Dr Andrew Heyman
Tina Viney and Dr James Wilson
Sinan Ali, Dr Khattar, Terry Everitt, David Adamson and Maureen Houssein-Mustafa
APJ 42
IN CONCLUSIONthThe 9 Annual A5M Anti-Ageing and Aesthetic Medical
Conference will be held on the 1-2 August 2015, once again in
Melbourne. It pays to prioritise to attend. Here is the link for
further details http://www.a5m.net/events/event/9th-annual-
conference-2015
Why not register now and save on the super-early birds rate?
This would have to be one of the best conferences I have ever
attended. Whether you are a medical practitioner, nurse, dermal
clinician or aesthetic therapist, this event should be a priority for you
to attend. The diversity and amazing information presented will give
you a new appreciation of where medicine is heading and how it can
interface and also benefit appearance medicine. The fusion of diverse
disciplines has the power to achieve much more through the new,
emerging regenerative and integrative health and medical model that
is providing answers to questions where the fragmented approach
failed.
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APJ 44
I AM WORKING FROM HOME, HOW CAN I KEEP
THE TAX MAN HAPPY?
The other deductions you may be able to claim are:
Products you use and consumables for your services are all claimable
Product purchases for reselling
Cleaning expenses for the space you use only
Flowers, tea and coffee or refreshments you service your clients. For these you need to purchase separate from your home use
Being able to claim for these expenses you will need to have clear The way we work is changing. Increasingly we demand flexibility in sections in your home that are set aside for use for the business only.the way we run our businesses and it is now common for many
business owners to work from home. If because of financial pressures Effective record keeping will ensure that with the appropriate receipts you have relocated your business from your premises to home, please you can claim your entitled deductions. Make sure you claim every remember that the Tax Office will be also targeting you for audits. In thing you're entitled to, not a cent less and not a cent more, and make fact, recently several members working from home were visited by sure you can substantiate all these purchases through receipts.the Tax Office, so make sure you are compliant with your obligations.
As part of membership APAN offers Members Plus Card for The Tax office always keeps a close eye on deductions that taxpayers discounted shopping.claim for working from home and it is easy to make a mistake. So These discounts also apply to Coles and Woolworths. Some business what are the rules for claiming expenses when you work from home? purchased a vouch with this membership and save an additional 5%. First, if you use a computer, phone or other electronic devices for work They then use this card specifically for salon purchases e.g. tissues, purposes, you may be able to claim a deduction for your costs. toilet paper, cleaning products, tea, coffee, milk and sugar, cotton buds, room spray, disinfectants and gloves. Some also purchase a coffee maker, milk frother, cups and sauces as well as glasses that are used
Occupancy expenses such as rent, mortgage interest, rates, land exclusively for their clients and in their work space.
taxes and insurance premiums.
Running expenses such as computer, printing, phone, IPL or other With good record keeping it is amazing how much you can save.equipment you have purchased or leased. You can claim the full cost (for items costing up to $300) or the decline in value (depreciation) for items costing $300 or more.
Heating, cooling, lighting and power costs proportionate to your work.
Cost of repairs to your salon equipment
Bank fees and charges
Linen purchases and cleaning
Marketing and advertising materials
Association memberships (like APAN), journals and publications you have purchased or subscribe to
Conferences you attend that are specific to your work this includes travel and accommodation expenses and well as conference fees
Business networking meetings expenses
APAN offers numerous cost-benefits to help you run your business in a cost-effective manner. If you would like to explore how APAN can assist you please contact APAN on Ph: 07 55930360 or email: [email protected].
Full coaching and consulting services however are available for free ONLY TO APAN FINANCIAL MEMBERS.
Solutions, insight and advice
for problems that arise at work
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industryaward
APJ 46
In recent years new industry achievement “I guess when I was delivering my speech,
awards have been introduced to the beauty which is a bit of blur, I was overwhelmed at the
industry to help honour individuals and support and recognition that I was given. I
help celebrate achievement. mentioned you, Tina, as being a huge mentor in
my life, and very briefly and quickly reflected
Awards can be powerful because they back on my life in this industry. I recognised
allows us to take a break from what we are that an important element of achievement is to
doing and view how our activities and have people believe in you and help you along
achievements have impacted not just the way, and I am forever grateful for that and
ourselves, but also the wider professional will never forget the support I have been given
community that we belong to. over the years.”
One worthy advocate within the beauty Being a multi-award winner we asked Gay to
industry is Gay Wardle. Tirelessly tell us how she believes awards impact an
working to improve educational individual and a business. “One thing about
awareness and enhanced knowledge receiving awards is that they encourage both
within the industry, she travels from State- individuals and their teams towards progress
to-State (often to her financial detriment) and achievement, and they can fuel passion and
delivering training to eager therapists. drive to do so. Anything is possible if you give it
Her altruism is monumental and through your all and stay honest and true to yourself,
her knowledge, zeal and passion she is while also being supportive of others.
helping to impact and shape an industry
that is desperately in need of becoming “ I have felt that winning awards encouraged me
better equipped to meet the challenges of a to always strive to be better than yesterday – to
changing industry environment, not to set standards for both myself and for my staff.
mention consumer expectations. Setting higher standards for yourself is very rewarding and it
encourages others to do the same. You cannot be a winner and then
This is what she does and it is her own unique trademark for which she become sloppy at your work. The recognition is a reminder that your
is known within the industry, and so it was befitting that the industry efforts have been identified and rewarded and this motivates you, not
chose to honour her through two separate awards programs. only to maintain them, but also to continue along the path of self-
improvement.
“I love this industry and would love to see it have formalised standards On Saturday 23rd August, Reed Exhibitions conducted their own Gala
Australia-wide so that we are recognised as professionals. We are Awards at which they recognise achievement within the beauty
moving towards more advanced procedures, and in order to work industry. The event was held at Cockle Bay, Dockside, Darling
effectively with healthcare professionals to achieve better outcomes Harbour. Over 200 guests attended the event at a gala dinner. This
with our clients' skin and body needs we need standards that can help year the inductee to the Hall of Fame was given to a very surprised
consolidate our professional identity, respect and recognition, not just Gay and presented by Amanda Stevens.
with the broader healthcare professional community, but also with
consumers. If I can help someone lift the standards through education Following this event, Sunday night 24th August was the ABIA
and inspire therapists to continue to educate themselves then that will (Australian Beauty Industry Awards). Again the event was held at
be my greatest award ever,” Gay emphatically confirmed.Cockle Bay, Dockside, Darling Harbour. This event, which was
launched just four years ago, is progressively gaining momentum and
this year over 350 attended their awards gala dinner. Among their
various awards ABIA also include a Hall of Fame Award. Once again
Gay was honoured and inducted into the Hall of Fame of the ABIA Without hesitating, Gay enthusiastically stated, “My future goals awards. would be to fight towards higher standards across Australia and to
create awareness that education as the only way we can stop This award was presented by Lee Fran from Refectocil, which was ‘opportunistic pirates’ from infiltrating our industry and degrading also a sponsor of these awards. the reputation of the profession. I know this is a high ambition, but we
need to get behind this agenda. You would understand, Tina, as you We asked Gay how surprised she was in receiving the award. “I was have been an advocate of this for a long time now and are making completely surprised as I know there are peers of mine that are more inroads to this extent.”deserving of these awards. So it came as a complete surprise and shock
that I would be presented with such an award. After winning Saturday We wish Gay every success for the future and feel delighted and night I never even considered that I would have won Sunday night as honoured to celebrate and champion her achievements and well. I felt very honoured at the time. My daughter, Nickie, had been recognition. We trust that she will become a trailblazer for others to contacted by both organisations and had been the source of follow her example and recognise that while there is benefit in setting information to deliver photos and other information. She was very goals for our own success, investing in the reputation of our profession good at keeping it a secret from me”, Gay stated. through our knowledge and skills is also a worthwhile pursuit – it is
the stuff of legacies.
WINNER OF TWO AWARDS
SO WHAT LIES AHEAD FOR GAY AND WHAT ARE HER
ASPIRATIONS?
Induction into the Hall of Fame ACHIEVEMENTS FOR THE BETTERMENT OF OTHERS
Our world is rapidly changing. Clinical knowledge is 1doubling every 18 months . Are you still working on
yesterday's business ideas or today's realities?
APAN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS CONFERENCES
BIGGER AND BETTER IN 2015The Business of Skin Management Taking it from Theory into Practice
stBrisbane Sunday 31 May
st Sydney Sunday 21 June
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Register today and secure your place. Visit www.apanetwork.com
Ph: 07 5593 0360 Email: [email protected]
Each APAN Conference Program is individual. Each promises to lift the lid on the facts and deliver cutting-edge information and unveil new concepts and trends. These conference programs will leave you exhilarated and bursting with new ideas on how to create your own growth cycle.
Latest Anti-ageing techniques
New concepts and principles
Leadership Strategies for Better Staff Performance
Winning Business Growth Strategies
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cosmeticsurgery
APJ 48
One of the speakers at the A5M Conference this year, Dr Simon
Rosenbaum is one of Australia's leading practitioners in
Cosmetic Surgery, who has worked in the industry for over
25 years. He is a former President of the Cosmetic
Physicians Society of Australia (CPSA) and was one of the
pioneers of cosmetic surgery in Australia.
Renowned for his expertise in an extensive range of
cosmetic surgical procedures ranging from breast
augmentation, liposuction, thread lifting, facelifts and tummy
tucks Dr Rosenbaum has both skills and experience in just
about every possible cosmetic procedure and is passionately
committed to his work as well as training other doctors.
We were thrilled to catch up with him and discuss his work and
industry developments.
APJ 1: Dr Rosenbaum, tell us a how you got started in
cosmetic surgery?
Dr Rosenbaum:
APJ 3: How has the
concept of facial beauty
changed over the past
10 years?
Dr Rosenbaum:
APJ 2: What aspect of your work do you love the best?
Dr Rosenbaum:
the form, restoring the functions, and aesthetically enhancing the
nose. I consider breast implants as one of my areas of specialisation.
The best results that can be achieved are with the tear-shape breast
implant, and we get a very high success rate for these, with a re-
operation rate of 2% when the usual is 30%. With facelifts I can
achieve great results with minimal scars. We also get great results
with liposuction and we can achieve liposlender legs. We look at the
patient in 3D contour to ensure we get the best results with the overall I started in general practice back in 1982, but after appearance. We also achieve successful body sculpturing with
five years I changed my direction and went into a computer business, ultrasonic cavitation through my training with Dr Grant Stephens in but my interest was to get back into practice, this time as a cosmetic the US, who is renowned for his technique. surgeon. To pursue this area of specialisation I went overseas and
undertook t raining in
Liposuction and Laser
Surgery in the US and in
Europe. Since then I haven't
looked back. I currently
perform and have perfected I believe n u m e r o u s s u r g i c a l that today our understanding t e c h n i q u e s a n d h a v e of the ageing process has performed in excess of 2500 improved. The old way of b r e a s t a u g m e n t a t i o n looking at a facelift was to procedures. I am committed minimise the slackness of to enhancing the natural nasolabial fold. It was much beauty of my patients by more simplistic and we had offering them the best limited products to work with. treatment options available. Now we have a huge variety Helping them realise their of products at our disposal, potential is the best part of from injectables, threads, fat my role and I strive to do that transplants to PRP and stem in the most natural-looking cells. The techniques have way possible. also evolved that allow us to
address specific elements of ageing in a more individual way. With
this multidisciplinary approach we are able to maintain facial integrity
so the patient looks fresher and more youthful without appearing I do everything except Rhinoplasty, which as you altered in a noticeable way. This enhancement style has a broader know is a plastic surgery procedure for correcting and reconstructing appeal to a wider consumer sector. For this reason cosmetic
Committed to the
Beautiful Face and Body
procedures are constantly gaining popularity and the demand is
increasing by an estimated 20% each year.
Also, as procedures are becoming more refined we are starting to see
younger patients, even in their 20s, who are seeking minimal
enhancement as a preventative measure.
There have been major shifts in lip-enhancing
techniques. We recognise now that bigger is not necessarily better.
Some lips are very hard to fill as they are prone to get the duck effect if
the lips are too stiff. With the new techniques we can achieve a natural
soft lift on just the edges. So many people are obsessesed with full lips
when they see a particular look on another person with different
proportions to theirs. While the look may work for that individual it
will not necessarily work for them. What I like to do is request to see a
photo of my patients when they were younger. In that way my
objective is to model any enhancement on how they looked in their
younger years. I aim to reverse the effects of time by attempting to
make them look as youthful and natural as possible without altering
them so that they look different. If you can identify that something has
APJ 4: What about lip techniques?
Dr Rosenbaum:
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been done, as a surgeon I have failed. This requires skill but the end
result is always pleasing and will naturally enhance the patient's
natural beauty and their self-esteem.
When looking at improving the youthfulness of
the face it is important to also look at skin texture and other aspects of
skin tone and elasticity. You can achieve a much more attractive and
youthful affect if we look at the face globally and determine areas we
can tweak to achieve balance and harmony.
I feel the advancement in product innovations have now given us
greater tools to achieve the best possible results. When improving
someone's appearance it is often very much about the skin. Injections
or surgery are not necessarily the only option. There is so much that
can be achieved through improved protocols in the use of peels that
can deliver amazing benefits in improving the skin’s smoothness and
achieving a glowing skin texture.
We also now know that you don't necessarily need to use deep peels.
You can achieve some amazing results with repeated light peels that
are safe and can mimic a gentle facelift. I have been asked to speak
about peels at this conference and I was thrilled to present what can be
achieved with them through the appropriate protocols. It would
appear that with new advances, for some reason, peels have been
ignored, but the benefits of their use is coming back.
There are now also incredible new skincare technologies such as
peptides, more advanced hyaluronic acid formulations as well as
epidermal growth factors. We also have evolving new technology
that when combined can achieve a great deal. Threads have also
advanced. The new ones stimulate collagen and are dissolvable. In
the past we would use 4-6 threads and the results were often very
average, now with the new threads we can use 20-30 to achieve a
more natural, global effect with a greater end result. In fact, threads
can also be used for mildly sagging breasts without the need for
scarring.
Looking at supplements, we are now seeing supplements that can
improve collagen integrity from inside out. You can get liquid
collagen from the UK and the powdered form from Italy. I believe
that supplements that support age management is going to be a
growing market.
The integrative approach using equipment, cosmetic and skincare
protocols, internal nutrition supported with minimal injectables is
now able to deliver amazing youthful and natural results that will
appeal to a much wider consumer base. Without a doubt this market
sector will continue to grow.
APJ 5: What new advances are you excited about?
Dr Rosenbaum:
Dr Simon Rosenbaum is an internationally recognised cosmetic
doctor with more than 25 years of industry experience. He
specialises in facial cosmetic surgery, breast augmentation,
laser surgery, liposculpture and abdominoplasty.
Dr Rosenbaum gained fellowship of the Australian College of
Cosmeic Surgery in 1999 and is a former president of the
Cosmetic Physicians Society of Australia. You can contact Dr
Simon Rosenbaum at the Cosmetic Plastic Surgery Centre Ph:
03 9576 2000 or email: [email protected]
LEARN FROM THE EXPERT
3D NIPPLE AREOLA
CHRISTINE COMANS
Cosmetic Tattooists, do you want to advance your
knowledge and education to a higher level and
transition into medical tattooing? APAN is holding a
post-graduate workshop for the benefit of Cosmetic
Tattooists who wish to expand their scope of practice
to include Medical Cosmetic Tattooing, specifically in
gaining skills and knowledge in .
This is a very rewarding career that will allow you to
improve the quality of life of cancer victims who have
undergone a mastectomy by improving their morale
and self-esteem.
APAN is delighted to present
– a qualified
Cosmetic Tattooist/trainer and a
specialist in the 3D Nipple Areola
technique. Christine is currently
working with the Sir Charles
Gairdner Hospital (SCGH) in
Perth, W.A. on cancer patients.
SCGH has an international
reputation for ground-breaking medical research and
is considered as one of the leading teaching tertiary
hospitals. Christine is honoured to be part of their
team supporting the wellbeing of cancer patients who
have undergone a mastectomy.
MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOOING
3D Nipple AreolaPost-Graduate Workshop
Sponsored by the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory NetworkAPAN
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Learning objectives will include:Plastic and reconstructive surgeons and
hospitals, etiquette and formalities
Understanding the process of breast-
reconstruction surgery
Anatomy and aesthetics of nipple areola
complex tattooing
Advances in equipment, procedures and
technique
Design and perform nipple areola
complex tattooing
Review treatment and provide post
treatment advice
Join us for a one-day amazing workshop and learn from a highly respected expert.
WHEN:
WHERE: TIME:
WHO CAN ATTEND:
YOU WILL RECEIVE:
MEALS:
COST: APAN MEMBERS:
REGISTRATION:
stRegistration Forms must be submitted by 1 May 2015.
st Monday 1 June 2015 st(FOLLOWING APAN CONFERENCE Sunday 31 June 2015 Stamford Plaza Hotel).
Stamford Plaza Hotel, Brisbane 8.30am – 5pm.
Qualified Cosmetic Tattooists
Statement of Attainment in Medical Cosmetic Tattooing (3D
Nipple Areola)
Morning/Afternoon tea will be provided as well as buffet lunch
$1100, $990
There are limited spaces available for this workshop so please
register early to avoid disappointment. You can download an application form
from www.apanetwork.com. Go to the Conference Registration Brisbane and
select the Cosmetic Tattoo Workshop form.
For further information contact APAN Ph: 07 55930360 Email: [email protected].
the advertising and claims are protocols and strategies developed that when based on hypotheses and empiric combined can work on a cellular level and calculations. mitigate damage that can contribute to disease
and premature ageing. One space to look out Experts advise if you want to for is the area of epigenetics.become serious about age reversal, doing it on your own is a doomed project. The best choice is to consult a specialist and determine the course of action most suitable for your particular needs. We are all genetically unique we have a d i ffe ren t metabo l i sm and hormonal balance and as a result we will age differently some gracefully, some not. The most impor tan t par t o f age ing management is comprehensive medical care, thorough and regular evaluation, and diagnostic testing before attempting any serious anti-ageing therapy such as hormone therapy eg. Human Growing Indications Growth Hormone (HGH) . Leaving aside skin and hair care,
for Laser-Assisted which are topics widely covered in the media, regenerative medical
Drug Delivery practitioners focus on some more hidden “gems” becoming popular A new review of laser-assisted drug delivery and offered in offices of some of highlights the potential of laser technology to the best anti-ageing specialists. It increase efficacy and reduce side-effects of usually starts with saliva testing, a prescription medications. “Laser Assisted cheek swab for genetic analysis Drug Delivery: A Review of An Evolving and a blood test. This can diagnose Technology,” by Lindsay R. Sklar, MD, hormone and vitamin deficiencies Christopher T. Burnett, MD, FAAD, Jill S. and age-related imbalances of Waibel, MD, FAAD, Ronald L. Moy, MD, various systems. A one-size-fits- FAAD, and David M. Ozog, MD, FAAD, was all regimen of over-the-counter published in the April 2014 issue of Lasers in
supplements is extremely ineffective. Surgery and Medicine.The New Trends in The modern approach is a hand-tailored According to the authors, “The types of lasers Anti-Ageing and Detox rejuvenation treatment designed to deliver most commonly studied in regards to drug vitamin and antioxidant cocktail is directly delivery are the carbon dioxide (CO2) and Medicine into one's bloodstream. According to Dmitri erbium:yttrium-aluminum-garnet (Er:YAG)
The search for the “fountain of youth” has Alden, celebrities have been spotted in lasers.” The study summarised the usage of fascinated people and medical researchers for infusion offices getting the weekly vitamin both conventional ablative and fractional centuries. Today the anti-ageing industry is “detox”; although unproven, the practice has ablative modalities for the delivery of projected to reach close to $300 billion in come in and out of fashion for years and is phototherapy agents, opioids, lidocaine and a sales of various products and services again gaining popularity. Taking these variety of cosmeceutical ingredients.promising to make users younger. As the products is unlikely to reverse ageing but amount of interest and sheer number of could help overall health and are unlikely to The researchers found that laser-assisted products grows, consumers are desperately in be harmful. There is also no serious scientific delivery is potentially safer and faster than need of help navigating the treacherous backing that taking melatonin, human-growth oral delivery, has less adverse effects, because waters of vast choices in anti-ageing items hormone, DHEA and others delay ageing, but the physician can uniformly distribute the presented to them. Unfortunately, to date, they are believed to improve sleep, mood and drugs in microscopic channels directly to the there are no officially FDA approved wellbeing. Another supplement that shows desired level in cutaneous tissue, and is cost medica t ions or products tha t can promise is resveratrol, which is believed to effective for the healthcare system. comprehensively reverse ageing. This is limit the growth of cancer, act as a natural because anti-ageing needs so much time and inflammatory and improve cholesterol. With “We are just now at the forefront of long-term follow-up that it is prohibitive in these findings we will continue to see understanding the uses and methods of using price and practicality. Because of this, most of
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
APJ 52
lasers and other devices to disrupt our skin detailing the network of genetic interactions PhD, a former research scientist in Ideker's surfaces, allowing the penetration of various underlying the cellular response to ultraviolet lab and the study's first author. "In order for medications. It is conceivable that one day (UV) radiation. repair factors to fix DNA damage, they need your arthritis medication could come with a access to naked DNA. This is where small device that creates microscopic pores in The researchers say their study establishes a chromatin remodellers come in: In theory, your skin to allow an anti-inflammatory drug new method and resource for exploring in they can be recruited to the DNA, open it up applied topically over an arthritic joint to greater detail how cells are damaged by UV and allow repair factors to do their job." penetrate directly to the targeted area. By radiation and how they repair themselves. UV skipping the traditional routes such as oral damage is one route to malignancy, especially Rohith said that other scientists have delivery, many side effects may be avoided. in skin cancer, and understanding the previously identified complexes that perform These new methods may be combined with underlying repair pathways will better help this role following UV damage. "Our results nano-technology and delayed release drugs to scientists to understand what goes wrong in are novel because they show RSC is maximise effects,” said Dr. Ozog. such cancers. connected to both UV damage pathways:
transcription coupled repair – which acts on The majority of studies reviewed by the The findings were published in the December parts of DNA being expressed – and global researchers involved animal models, leading 26, 2013 issue of Cell Reports. genome repair, which acts everywhere. All the authors to highlight the need for further previous remodellers were linked only to studies to “validate the existing research and Principal investigator Trey Ideker, PhD, global genome repair." explore the many additional potential clinical division chief of genetics in the UC San Diego applications," said Dr. Burnett. Dr. Waibel School of Medicine and a professor in the UC The scientists noted that the degree of genetic shared some of the current research being San Diego Departments of Medicine and rewiring correlates with the dose of UV. conducted in this arena. “At the Miami Bioengineering, and colleagues mapped 89 Reparative interactions were observed at Dermatology and Laser Institute we have UV-induced functional interactions among 62 distinct low or high doses of UV, but not both. done laser-assisted delivery clinical studies protein complexes. The interactions were While genetic interactions at higher doses is on corticosteroids, 5-Fluorouracil, Poly-L- culled from a larger measurement of more not surprising, the authors said, the findings lactic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Bimatoprost, than 45,000 double mutants, the deletion of suggest low-dose UV radiation prompts Timolol and Antibiotics. At the University of two separate genes, before and after different specific interactions as well. Co-authors Miami my colleagues, Dr. Evangelos doses of UV radiation. inc lude Anne-Ruxandra Carvun i s , Badiavas and Professor Stephen Davis have a Department of Medicine, UCSD; Leiden Department of Defence grant studying the Specifically, they identified interactive links University Medical Center; Sovan Sarkar and basic science of laser-assisted delivery of to the cell's chromatin structure remodelling Peter J. McHugh, Weatherall Institute of stem cells on acute burns in a third-degree (RSC) complex, a grouping of protein Molecular Medicine, University of Oxford; burn porcine model. Our grant is “Scars subunits that remodel chromatin – the Thomas Costelloe, Erik Malta, Su Ming Sun, through Laser Assisted Delivery of Stem combination of DNA and proteins that make Marijke Pool and Haico van Attikum, Leiden Cells, Care for the Critically Injured Burn up a cell's nucleus – during cell mitosis or University Medical Center; Katherine Licon, Patient” and we are studying putting fat stem division. "We show that RSC is recruited to Department of Medicine, Institute for cells, autologous stem cells and allogeneic places on genes or DNA sequences where UV Genomic Medicine, UCSD; Tibor van stem cells down the laser channels to heal skin damage has occurred and that it helps Welsem and Fred van Leeuwen, Netherlands with very promising results. In addition, we facilitate efficient repair by promoting Cancer Institute. are studying techniques to optimise laser- nucleosome remodeling," said Ideker. assisted drug delivery by using accessories, such as the Impact Acoustic wave device, The process of repairing DNA damage matrices and occlusion,” said Dr. Waibel. caused by UV radiation and other sources,
such as chemicals and other mutagens, is both simple and complicated. DNA-distorting lesions are detected by a cellular mechanism called the nucleotide e x c i s i o n r e p a i r (NER) pathway. The lesion is excised; the gap filled with new genetic material copied from an intact DNA strand by special enzymes; Australian Doctors and the remaining n i c k s e a l e d b y Call for Ban on Teen another specialised enzyme. How cells remodel
Cosmetic Surgery However, NER does not work in isolation; after UV radiationThe Cosmetic Physicians Society of rather it coordinates with other biological
Researchers at the University of California, Australasia is calling for a national ban on mechanisms, including RSC. "DNA isn't free-San Diego School of Medicine, with teen cosmetic surgery. The proposed ban is a floating in the cell, but is packaged into a tight colleagues in The Netherlands and United reaction to media reports that a growing structure called chromatin, which is DNA Kingdom, have produced the first map number of adolescents and teens in Australia wound around proteins," said Rohith Srivas,
APJ 53
are receiving Botox, breast implants, and the with approximately 14.2 million ambulatory the results of cosmetic and reconstructive like from their parents as rewards. care visits every year and an annual procedures, new research suggests. The
associated medical cost of almost $24 billion study, which appears in the September 28 In 2009, Queensland introduced laws banning (equivalent to $76 for every American), says issue of The Lancet, is the first randomized some types of cosmetic surgery on children, Hamblin. human trial of stem-cell enriched fat grafts.including breast and nose surgery, liposuction and Botox. Doctors who perform such Treatment of skin and soft-tissue infections Researchers from Copenhagen University procedures without medical reason can face has been significantly complicated by the Hospital in Denmark recruited 10 healthy up to two years in prison. The proposed explosion of antibiotic resistance, which may volunteers who had liposuction. The fat was national ban would place all States is in line bring an end to what medical scientists refer then purified and injected into their upper with Queensland. Current guidelines in New to as the antibiotic era, says Hamblin. arms. In one arm, the fat was enriched with South Wales require that those under 18 who "Microbes replicate very rapidly, and a stem cells and the other arm received a are considering cosmetic surgery have a mutation that helps a microbe survive in the traditional fat transplant. After about four three-month cooling-off period, followed by presence of an antibiotic drug will quickly months, the researchers took MRI images of consultation with an internist and clinical predominate throughout the microbial the fat transplants and removed the grafts. The psychologist. population. Recently, a dangerous new grafts that were enriched with fat-derived
enzyme, NDM-1, that makes some bacteria stem cells retained 80.9% of their volume, resis tant to almost al l compared to the standard grafts which antibiotics available has been retained just 16.3% of their volume. Four found in the United States. months later, stem cell grafts also M a n y p h y s i c i a n s a r e demonstrated higher amounts of adipose concerned that several tissue and newly formed connective tissues. infections soon may be Moreover, there was less necrosis in the stem-untreatable." cell enriched fat grafts compared to the
standard grafts.Besides harming public health, antibiotic resistance Sam Rizk, MD, a New York City facial plastic boosts healthcare costs. surgeon reviewed the study for Plastic "Treating resistant skin and Surgery Practice. "The Lancet study on lipo-soft-tissue infections often filling is important to substantiate the work requires the use of more that many plastic surgeons are doing with fat expensive, or more toxic grafting in humans," he says. "I have been
drugs, and can result in longer hospital stays using fat combined with platelet-rich plasma Blue Light Destroys for infected patients," says Hamblin. as an adjunct with most of the facelifts I
A copy of the manuscript can be found online at perform for the past several years”.http://bit.ly/asmtip0113b. Skin, Soft Tissue
He adds: "In my e x p e r i e n c e w i t h Infectionshundreds of cases, the Blue light can selectively eradicate results have been Pseudomonas aeruginosa infections of the significant. There skin and soft tissues, while preserving the appears to be a outermost layer of skin, according to a proof-rejuvenative effect on of-principle study led by Michael R. Hamblin the skin that we can of the Massachusetts General Hospital, and a t t r i b u t e t o t h e the Harvard Medical School, Boston. The activity of growth research is published online ahead of print in f a c t o r s . " G o i n g the journal Antimicrobial Agents and f o r w a r d , " I a m Chemotherapy. optimistic that as more research is done "Blue light is a potential non-toxic, non-in this evolving area, antibiotic approach for treating skin and soft-we will be able to tissue infections, especially those caused by p r e d i c t m o r e antibiotic resistant pathogens," says Hamblin. accurately what fat grafting and stem In the study, animal models were infected cells can and cannot with P. aeruginosa. All of the animals in the do.”group treated with blue light survived, while Regenerative Medicine
in the control, 82 per cent (9 out of 11) of the In an editorial accompanying the new study, J animals died. Breakthrough: Peter Rubin,MD, and Kacey G Marra, PhD, of the University of Pittsburgh wrote that Skin and soft-tissue infections are the second Stem-Cell Enriched "these therapies could revolutionise breast most common bacter ia l infect ions r e c o n s t r u c t i o n a f t e r c a n c e r a n d encountered in clinical practice, and represent Fat Grafts Outperform reconstruction of deformities after trauma, for the most common infection presentation – example ".more than 3 percent – in patients visiting Traditional http://www.plasticsurgerypractice.comemergency departments, says Hamblin. The
prevalence of skin and soft-tissue infections Fat Grafts among hospitalised patients is 10 per cent,
Stem-cell enriched fat grafting may enhance
APJ 54
Study Supports Use of Autologous Fat
Grafting for Hard-to-Treat Scars Fat grafting may help treat hard, contracted scars resulting from burns, surgery, and other causes, a new study shows. The findings, which appear in the September issue of The Journal of Craniofacial Surgery, add to a growing body of evidence on the benefits of fat grafting.
Marco Klinger, MD, and colleagues from the Università degli Studi di Milano in Italy, used autologous fat grafting to treat persistent scarring problems in nearly 700 patients over six years. All patients had abnormal, painful scars causing hardening or tightening of the skin, often with limitation of motion. The scars were refractory to other treatments.
Exactly how fat grafting exerts its benefits in scarred tissues is not understood, but the fat tissue includes stem cells, which can develop into many different types of cells active in the wound-healing and tissue-repair process.
Improvements Seen in Both Form and FunctionIn the study, the fat-grafting procedure began with liposuction, usually from the abdomen or hips. After processing, surgeons reinjected the fat cells under the skin in the area of scarring. Fat was distributed in different directions, with the goal of creating a "web" of support for scarred, damaged skin.
Fat grafting led to significant improvement "both from an aesthetic and functional point of view," according to study authors. The skin in the scarred area became "softer and more flexible and extensible, and very often color seem[ed] similar to the surrounding unharmed skin”.
After fat grafting, the patients had decreased pain and increased scar elasticity, the study showed. Improvement began within two weeks, continued through three months, and persisted through one year and beyond. In a subgroup of patients, objective testing of skin hardness and clinical ratings by doctors and patients provided further evidence of treatment benefits.
Treatment was associated with improved motion in areas where movement was limited because of tightness and stiffness of contracted scars. For example, in patients with scarring after burns to the face, fat grafting led to improved facial motion.
In one case, a breast-cancer patient was left with hard, painful scars after complications from breast reconstruction. Treatment with fat grafting allowed a successful second breast reconstruction to be performed.
Fat grafting is a "promising and effective therapeutic approach" to scars from various causes – not only burns and other forms of trauma but also after surgery or radiation therapy. "Treated areas regain characteristics similar to normal skin," leading not only to improved appearance but also improved function in patients with problematic scars that don't respond to other treatments, the study authors conclude.
facialrejuvenation
APJ 56
THThis year at the 8 AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing thMedicine Conference held on the 16 and 17 August at the
Sofitel, Melbourne we were able to interview several prominent
key-note speakers and presenters. In the area of Aesthetic
Medicine, Dr Maria Angelo-Khattar from Dubai presented both a
lecture and workshop on Enhancing Facial Shape: A Minimally
Invasive Approach, at which she demonstrated the latest filler
techniques.
Dr. Khattar is the Managing Director and Founder of Aesthetica
Clinic, a large clinical practice affiliated with leading clinical
practices in many countries of the region. She has trained over
100 medical practitioners at her teaching institute in Dubai,
Institute of Medical Aesthetics. Focusing on evidence-based,
minimally invasive aesthetic procedures, such as facial
injectables, laser treatments and body contouring, the program APJ 2: Is fat transfer to the face a stable option for boosts over 100 hours of individualised hands-on procedural volumising and is it a better option over synthetic fillers?learning on live patients, non-biased, evidence-based medical Dr Khattar:curriculum, mentoring from leading experts in Aesthetic
Medicine and practice development tools.
We caught up with Dr Khattar for her to share with us a little of her
knowledge of the new trends in this area of appearance
enhancement.
APJ 1: How have the concepts and metrics of facial
rejuvenation changed over the past five years and why?
Dr Khattar:
higher level is acceptable, while in others the more nature look is
preferred. The issue is to ensure that you achieve harmony and
balance, and the tools we now have are far more varied and
sophisticated than they used to be. We now have so many evidence-
based treatments in the form of injectables and numerous equipment
technologies and ingredients that work together to achieve
remarkable outcomes that are natural and create a wonderful, youthful
appearance. Biodegradable contour threads are another option, even
though I still have my reservations. They do have their place, but they
are not a panacea. The old threads were made of polypropoline and
were non-biodegradable. Today, threads are both biodegradable and
free floating. They have cogs that anchor on the tissue causing
collagen stimulation. In my opinion they achieve more of a tightening
effect than a lifting effect. However, with correct training the various
tools we have enable us to achieve amazing anti-ageing improvement
with a more natural and youthful end result.
There are now numerous techniques that allow us to
refine and customise the end result. For example mixing PRP (Platelet
Rich Plasma) with stem cells so that we can achieve a more natural and
controlled outcome. Previously, the outcomes were not as predictable
and often were not symmetrical. I personally prefer bio-stimulating
fillers rather than fat transfers that require liposuction, which can
depress another part of the body. When working with adipose tissue
there is a preparation procedure necessary where you have to prepare
the fat with stem cells. This it is quite involved. Furthermore, fat can
change when in the body. For example, if a person puts on weight their
fat cells increase. They will also increase where they have been placed
in the face. This could lead to an undesirable outcome. On the other The concept of beauty varies from country to country. hand the advantage of proprietary fillers is that you only need to use a
For example, in some countries the issue of volumising at a slightly small amount to achieve excellent results.
PERFECTING FACIAL FEATURESRevealing the latest techniques in facial rejuvenation
APJ 3: What is polycaprolactone and how is it used in
facial rejuvenation?
Dr Khattar:
APJ 4: What lessons have we learnt on rejuvenation
concepts and what new techniques are replacing old
ones?
Dr Khattar:APJ 7: What are the objectives of a beautiful face today
and why is intervention needed as we age? What needs
correcting and how is it achieved?
Dr Khattar:
AJP 5: How can an aesthetic therapist support a
cosmetic physician and how can they best prepare the
skin for more invasive procedures?
Dr Khattar:
APJ 6: In your opinion what dietary or nutritional support
will assist individuals in enhancing their anti-ageing
treatment outcomes? What advice would you give a
client from an internal nutritional perspective?
Dr Khattar:
This is a biopolymer, which is a new generation dermal
filler agent that stimulates the body's own collagen. A revolutionary
new filler product known as Ellans (AQTIS Medical, Netherlands)
boasts a tunable longevity, total bioresorbability and a sustained
performance. This filler is composed of polycaprolactone (PCL).
Current fillers are composed of hyaluronic acid (HA), calcium
hydroxylapatite or collagen. Ellans is composed of PCL, a well-
known, completely bioresorbable soft medical polymer that has been
used for decades in CE-marked and FDA-approved commercial
bioresorbable product applications.
The PCL contained in Ellans is the same material that you find in some
resorbable sutures and other devices in surgery. The experience with
PCL spans over 40 years in medicine, and it has a solid, proven safety
record in terms of biocompatibility. It is 100 per cent biodegradability
and has a decades-long excellent safety record. The other advantage
of this filler is that you can gain much quicker results than other bio-
stimulating fillers that may take months to show their effect.
A lot can now be achieved in rejuvenating the skin by
combining various approaches such as chemical peels in more
sophisticated ways, the use of skin-tightening devices such as laser,
and other new equipment technologies that when combined together
can deliver incredible results. Skincare technology has also advanced The characteristics of beauty in terms of the overall and we now have some novel preparation with peptides, hyaluronic
shape and geometry of the face have been very well defined in the acid in various weights and growth factors that when used in
literature. Ideally, a youthful and beautiful face should be a perfect conjunction with advanced technologies that can achieve levels of
improvement that were not previously possible. Adding to these
Platelet Rich Plasma and injectables and you have an array of amazing
tools to achieve improvement with greater precision.
An aesthetic therapist can greatly assist in improving
skin immunity, strength, clarity and flexibility in preparation for more
invasive procedures. A series of mild peels, the use of vitamin A and
vitamin C as well as growth factors can substantially boost the skin's
integrity. Technologies such as ultrasound and radiofrequency are
also highly beneficial in skin tightening and achieve a level of
improvement that can then be stepped up with minimal injectables to
fine tune the desired level of improvement.
This should be very much a professional collaborative relationship
between aesthetic therapist and cosmetic physician.
I am a strong believer in balancing hormones to improve
wellbeing and skin. An appropriate blood test to evaluate hormonal
levels is a good way to start as you cannot have proper perimeters to
physical anti-ageing without properly balanced hormones. It is also
important that a low-carbohydrate, low-sugar diet is recommended,
with supporting nutritional care such as priobiotics, fish oil and
various vitamins and minerals if deficiencies are identified.
APJ 57
oval that is well balanced and has both malar and zygomatic prominence. Recent studies
have elucidated the detailed anatomy of the facial fat pads and this has changed our
understanding of both the pathophysiology of facial ageing and the strategies that are
currently adopted in the rejuvenation of the face. In the majority of older patients, there is
a descent and/or dissipation of the facial fat pads which results in mid-face deflation,
which often contributes to an increase in lower-face volume as features drop. Moreover,
a decrease in vertical facial proportions as a result of dental wear may further contribute to
a distortion of facial shape. The restoration of facial beauty and symmetry is possible by
the use of evidence-based, minimally invasive procedures. A combined strategy using a
biostimulant soft-tissue filler for volume replacement and lipolysis for the slimming and
refining of the lower face is used to restore the ageing face. These techniques are also of
great value in the embellishment and enhancement of facial contours in young
individuals.
Dr. Maria Angelo-Khattar is a fellow of the Royal Society of Medicine UK. She is the
clinical director of the Aesthetic Anti Aging Fellowship program of the American Academy
of Anti Aging Medicine.
In addition to being a Fellow of the Royal Society of Medicine and the clinical director of
the fellowship program at the American Academy of Anti Aging Medicine, she is a member
of several professional organisations, which include the American Society for Lasers in
Medicine and Surgery (ASLMS), the British Anti Aging Society, Scientific Committee of
the Dubai Academy of Aging and Aesthetic Medicine.
Dr. Khattar has published more than 40 scientific and medical papers. In addition, Dr
Khattar has presented several papers, and delivered many lectures on a variety of
subjects in the field of anti-ageing and aesthetic medicine. She was the Associate
Professor of Pharmacology, Faculty of Medicine, Kuwait University. In addition, Dr.
Khattar holds a PhD in Pharmacology from the University of London.
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salonbusiness
APJ 60
Every business thrives on productive, positive, innovative and
co-operative staff personnel who are not afraid to excel in all
areas of their operations. However, the secret to gaining them in
the first place starts with the selection process, and then
nurturing them so that they can achieve the star qualities that will
benefit both them and the business. Here Caroline Nelson
shares some valuable tips on this subject.
THE STAR EMPLOYER
Just like any relationship, some work and some don't and often
through no-one's fault, but just because they are the wrong fit. So
choosing the right person for the position is critical for the employer,
but also accepting the right job is critical for the employee. In fact,
some business owners would be better not being in business, as would
some employees be best not to be beauty therapists. So if either is a
square peg trying to fit into a round hole there will be conflict and no
positive outcome.
Every business owner would like to have a team of star performers, Presuming the business owner is the right person to own and operate a
however, more and more frequently I hear salon owners complaining business and the employee is trained and keen to be part of this
about employees, their lack of skills, their lack of commitment and growing industry, how can star performers be developed? And when I
their poor attitudes, so clearly star performers are in short supply. Or say star performers, I mean both star employers and star employees,
are they? because one without the other does not make for excellence.
Yes, I will agree the majority of employees in this industry are from
the Gen Y group. And yes, we do hear what poor employees they can Yes, it's true. It does take two to tango. And it starts with the business
make, but is that a valid reason, or an excuse employers bandy around? owner wanting to be the best leader they can be. Great bosses have
Could there be other reasons we need to consider?many qualities that set them apart and make them a pleasure to work
with and for. But above all they value good team dynamics, so for that Possibly one reason is that some employers are just not skilled at
reason they spend quality time attracting the right people for the right choosing the right candidates in the first place, regardless of which
job. But they also make sure if the wrong people do happen to slip generation they belong too.
through that they quickly get identified and quickly removed.
Let's be fair. There are both bad employees as well as bad bosses. The Once the business owner has employed someone they feel is the right
thing is most do not start out with the intention of being either bad person the work begins to integrate them successfully into the team.
employee or bad boss, but lack of foresight, planning, and in some This starts by engaging the newbie into the Business Vision or the 'big
cases unforeseen circumstances and challenges, can soon turn the picture' so they clearly understand the organisational direction and
tables.purpose behind the vision and their place in it. They will understand
STAR PERFORMERS – The team every business needs!By Caroline Nelson
the unique strengths and culture which should engage their loyalty, commitment and
involvement.
One thing great bosses do well is to integrate learning and development into every job
description so that personal growth is encouraged, benchmarks and targets met and results
rewarded. They constantly inspire their employees through praise, knowing that we all
thrive in positivity and that star performers rise from fertile ground. While successes are met
with high praise and rewards, failures must be met with encouragement, the situation
discussed, solutions provided, and next-step plans implemented for improvement.
Offering training support and encouragement is necessary, however, at some point in some
cases it may be realised that regardless of the effort it is no longer reaping positive results.
Try to make it work, but be aware once this happens some employees may have reached their
'use-by' date when they will no longer contribute to or benefit the business, the team, and
even themselves. Often being terminated is not a bad thing, it can in fact encourage a
dissatisfied therapist no longer enjoying their work to try a new career that might better suit
their temperament and attitudes.
Managing a team is also about managing resources effectively and efficiently. By providing
the structure, techniques and systems to enable employees to perform at a high level of
consistency will not only reduce wastage, but will show employees that their time and skills
are valued. Good managers promote personal accountability by clear communication and
allowing personal and group initiatives that align with the team endeavour, creating tight
bonds of loyalty to the company and each other. These are qualities a star employer needs to
develop, but what of the star employee?
Occasionally a business will attract the type of natural beauty therapist who is a star from day
one, but this is very rare. Most stars are not born they are nurtured, but they will need to have
the essential traits to be groomed and encouraged into stardom. One thing we can be sure of
is that skills can be taught and learnt, but a good attitude must be there from the start.
Most employers would expect employees to display essential good traits such as a bright,
positive outlook, dependability, punctuality, honesty, integrity, and the ability to perform
assigned duties. However, in a personal industry such as ours and one that is undertaking
quick and vast changes, additional qualities are also required.
A star in the making would need to be self-motivated with a continuing desire and thirst for
knowledge and excellence. They would need a preparedness and openness to change and a
passion for aesthetics as a career and not just a job. In addition, these details need to be
consistent not only for the job, but also for their personal professional presentation and
grooming. Good communication skills, empathy and the ability to work in harmony would
also be necessary.
One thing both employer and employee need is the awareness of clear expectations of what
is required and what can and will be provided by each party. It starts from the very first
contact at the initial job interview and all the way through the relationship. A detailed job
description spelling out all duties, the level of competence and performance expected, as
well as listing what management will provide should all be presented at the interview. A
detailed discussion on the training the job provides and the attendance and commitment
necessary by the employee.
What is often missed or omitted is a full induction into the job. And this is something a star
employer would never do. They would provide an employee manual that outlines exactly the
policies, systems and procedures that must be adhered to by all. Following these guidelines
allows for the business image and high standards to be maintained.
It's easy to see that star performance doesn't happen by chance or accident. It happens by
design, commitment and follow-through by all participants. And while every business might
need, want or desire star performers, it may not always be a reality 100 per cent of the time.
But even if it is most of the time you, your business and your team will reap excellent
rewards.© Copyright Caroline Nelson 2014
THE STAR EMPLOYEE
CLEAR EXPECTATIONS
Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert who specialises in helping businesses develop their brand,
improve productivity, and increase bottom-line profit. For a free 30-minute business consultation register
at www.SalonSpaBusiness.com or phone 07 5528 9440.
APJ 62
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APJ 63
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are able to visit their Bioelements therapist more often and receive All of our pharmaceutically formulated peptides and complexes are professional treatments, while ensuring their home-use products have medically and clinically tested to evaluate efficacy, effectiveness and been customised to their exact needs.skin compatibility. The formula of each finished Bioelements product
is clinically tested to ensure stability, integrity, viscosity and correct
pH. Preservation systems and the percentage of active ingredients are
also clinically tested. All Bioelements products are TGA and FDA
compliant.
As a fusion of cosmeceutical science boosted with organic botanicals
advancedskinscience
APJ 64
can predispose the host to a number of cutaneous infectious and As history presents and science proves, we can accept that the
inflammatory conditions. This advancement in microbiology and digestive system is linked to all systemically-related biological issues
immunology has, however, failed to fully address the roles of that must include those presented on the external casing of the body
microbiota further and their functions.the largest organ of the body, the skin.
We know that our skin is a frequent site of immunopathological In light of the symbiotic relationships between microbial mutualism reactions and is commonly involved in systemic diseases. Science and commensalism (one organism benefiting without affecting the now has identified that the gut and liver have a direct correlation to other) it is now confirmed as being critical to human health in studies skin health. More specifically, the gut flora can directly impact the of gut microbiota. Science has in the past decade recognised that more skin's flora and therefore affect issues involving the skin. information is needed to expand research in skin microbiota and to
revise our understanding of Existing clinical studies molecular mechanisms.h a v e p r o v i d e d
invaluable information For example, it is known that about the abundance and the complex host microbe types of microbes on the and microbe interactions skin. that exist on the surface of
human skin illustrate that the Research studies related skin's microbiota has a to infectious disease beneficial role, much like have identified targets of microbial virulence factors aiming to that of the gut microflora. However, unlike the intestine, the role of eliminate harmful organisms of the skin and yet some of these same microbes on the skin's surface has not been comprehensively studied. microbes potentially play an opposite role in protecting the host.
Some participate in inflammatory disease, yet may not be the cause of Current information on bacterial skin flora, including infection. Staphylococcus, Corynebacterium, Propionibacterium,
Streptococcus and Pseudomonas, is specifically being reviewed and A Nizet and Galo study entitled Skin Microbiota recently proposed discussed to determine recent findings of cutaneous microbiota, as that the delicate balance of the skin's barrier and innate immunity well as shifting paradigms in the interpretation of the roles microbes combine to maintain healthy skin and that disturbance of this balance play in skin health and disease.
SKIN HEALTH and the Integrative ApproachUnderstanding Skin Microbiota is opening up New Horizons In Advanced Skin Therapy Protocols
By Lynette Rouse BHSc
Gut microbes may thus influence acne through a systemic effect on inflammation, oxidative stress, glycemic control, tissue lipid levels,
pathogenic bacteria, neuropeptides and mood regulating neurotransmitters.
IMPLICATIONS TO SKIN HEALTH
EVOLVING NEW HORIZONS
SYSTEMIC FUNCTIONS POTENTIALLY AFFECTING SKIN
FLORA
Dr. J. Wu, MD, stated that complete dermatological skincare is about
more than skin. It's about taking care of the whole person, and there are Advancement in this research will greatly benefit skin therapists’ and many pieces of the puzzle to place together from immunity, endocrine clinicians’ understanding of principles that guide appropriate system and the role of stress and emotions in GI barrier dysfunction, systemic and advances in topical therapies. This will advance the infection and good or chemical sensitivity.scope and possibilities of better treatment outcomes for the aesthetic
clinician. For example, how do we address the issues presented on the
skin when a client has an overuse issue of oral or topical antibiotics?
An example of this is the evidence suggesting that they have disrupted If we look back to the past two decades to the beginning of the 1990s the delicate balance of both the gut flora and the cutaneous microflora, the increase in knowledge that we now have on the skin is quite leaving the skin susceptible to pathogens previously kept at bay by the astounding. This new knowledge is now allowing us to view the skin existing resident and mutual microbiota. in aesthetics from different lenses. These advances have given us a
better understanding of what influences skin health and utilising this
knowledge will allow us to reach more advanced treatment outcomes
than previously possible, whether we are aestheticians, dermal
therapists of cosmetic physicians working with injectables. We now A previous article published in the Spring issue of APJ on pages 112- have both better knowledge and greater technologies to work with a 113 addressed the importance of having a healthy balance of gut flora. more integrative manner for enhanced results.We have already ascertained that the intestinal tract harbours a
complex microbiota. Disturbance in its composition has been At times this progress has grown so rapidly that it is bypassing current associated with several immune dysfunctions, such as inflammatory training standards in beauty therapy. A perfect example is the diseases. advances in equipment. How many operators have gained training in
these technologies while gaining the qualifications? These advances Gut microbes may thus influence acne through a systemic effect on now also require that we revisit our anatomy and physiology and gain inflammation, oxidative stress, glycemic control, tissue lipid levels, a higher level of understanding of biology principles that can underpin pathogenic bacteria, neuropeptides and mood-regulating a more clinical approach that is now needed for the efficacious use of neurotransmitters. currently available equipment and topical therapies.
Phenol metabolites of aromatic acids are produced by gut bacteria and For some the idea of practitioner protocols altering to incorporate can accumulate in the skin via blood circulation and disrupt some form of internal application seems at times beyond the scope of a keratinocyte differentiation. beauty/skin therapist, yet the industry's evolution appears to be
leaning for the need of taking this approach.IgE – an immunoglobulin that plays a role in atopic manifestations
such as asthma and eczema also appears to be substantially higher in Treating the whole person is not new. Some years back, Dr Perricone acne patients. A further clinical study resulted in evidence from World extolled the importance of food for healthy skin and stated that we Clinics Dermatology report that acne patients are more likely to must fix the gut after antibiotic use.experience constipation, halitosis, gastric reflux and abnormal
bloating, and often report GI distress. Progress in research, new evidence, commercialism and philosophies be that old or new, the scope of an aesthetic practitioner is rapidly A recent scholarly review has not only provided invaluable insight evolving in these modern times and these are necessitating a need for into this important phenomenon, but also drawn attention to published new approaches in dealing with skin. literature that actually links
acne with GI system and
o p e n s a w h o l e n e w
therapeutic front.
Research surveys have
proven that abnormal bowel
movements point to skin
problem associations, such
as a high frequency of dry
skin.
Further, insulin-like Growth
Factor IGF-1 hormone
drives acne and is present in
higher quantities in cows’
mi lk . Meln ik ' s s tudy
comparing the amino acid
leucine in animal-derived
food versus plant-derived
food confirmed that the
animal leucine was higher
and relayed its influences of
acne.
APJ 65
It is possible within the scope of a beauty therapist to treat the skin One product that comes to mind with over 5000 relevant research
from a whole-person perspective. It can be as simple as offering your papers with efficacy is colostrum. Colostrum is both a pre-biotic and a
clients further information that you can guide them that can make all pro-biotic, is highly rich in proline-rich peptides, hosts all necessary
the difference in your treatment outcomes. immune properties and has been coined to be the highest form of
nutritional food known, and therefore must also assist the skin.
So what is our bridge that links the known and proven therapies with Probiotics and/or prebiotics, or GOS, are expected to help maintain a our current and scientific revelations? The missing link is that internal healthy skin by decreasing phenol production by gut microbiota. and external approaches must work together in an integrative manner.These findings support the hypothesis that probiotics and prebiotics
provide health benefits to the skin as well as the gut.The idea of an aesthetic therapist combining oral and topical
treatments to address skin concerns treating the whole person is not A daily intake of the prebiotic galacto-oligosaccharides (GOS) new. However, it seems that we are still at the infancy stages as a new restored serum free p-cresol levels and skin conditions in adult female era takes shape once again. acne sufferers.
There are numerous therapies and products available with supporting Moreover, a double-blind placebo-controlled trial demonstrated that data that can be readily accessed. The important issue is to gain the the daily intake of the probiotic Bifidobacterium and prebiotic GOS necessary training as therapists on how to implement a structure reduced serum total phenol levels and prevented skin dryness and within a business model. However, it would appear that further disruption of keratinisation in healthy adult women. curricular is necessary and we are now seeing these emerging through
higher education an example being the Bachelor of Applied Health There is evidence enough to show that a therapeutic use of probiotics, Science (Clinical Aesthetics). This program has the foresight to particularly Lactobacillus acidophilus, in those suffering from acne include a rigorous biology and nutritional science program to equip related to small intestinal bacterial overgrowth (ISBO) was beneficial.the therapists and clinicians of the future.
Studies reviewing Lactobacillus paracasei offered data indicating
that certain strains of probiotic exerts its effects beyond the gut and
offers benefits at the skin level. It contributes to the reinforcement of
skin-barrier function, decreases skin sensitivity and modulates the
skin's immune system, leading to the preservation of skin homeostasis
and thus a balance of skin flora.
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SSB_SpaClinic_FP.indd 1 22/09/2014 12:27:31 PM
thMonday 25 August saw another successful conference
program help by APAN in Sydney directly after the Spa and
Beauty Expo. With the theme Winning the War on Change and
Competition, the program was comprehensive and delivered on
its promise.
Tim Green holds MBA qualifications and extensive experience and
accomplishments in marketing and business growth. He presented a
compelling lecture with statistical graphs that demonstrated the
rapidly changing mobile marketing space and how businesses need to
grow their database and retain their clients in a consistent and
measurable manner.
Starting the conference program, Tina Viney once again raised the lid On a more scientific level, Professor Ray Hayek presented an on new advances in both industry developments and presented new interesting lecture on pathophysiology, identifying skin statistics on the evolving changes in consumer trends. She also abnormalities, their causes and manifestations and the importance for challenged industry professionals on how the demands on future a skin therapist to correctly identify them prior to any treatment.developments will require that the industry to re-examine its position
and gain the necessary skills and qualifications to meet with future Following a buffet lunch, Warren Maginn, who is a Functional regulatory requirements and consumer demands. She clarified in Nutritional Medicine Practitioner and Educator, took skin detail the various areas and new disciplines that are shaping the manifestations one step further by discussing internal deficiencies industry. that contribute to various skin manifestations and effective nutrition
Winning the War on Change and CompetitionWinning the War on Change and Competition
apanconference
APJ 68
APJ 69
that can support health
and contribute towards
mitigating various skin
conditions through
improving health and
systemic homeostasis.
Bringing the concept of
the global changes to
the issue of business
p h i l o s o p h i e s a n d
perspective, Isabelle
Sennery presented
s o m e k e y
considerations that
every business needs to
examine to identify if
their whole philosophy
needs to be updated to
better fit the priorities
and beliefs of the
modern consumer. She
s p o k e o f t h e
i m p o r t a n c e o f
connecting with our
clients and patients at a
more fundamental
level of values, as when
we are aligned on this
level trust is built and
business decisions by
the consumer are more
e a s i l y m a d e a n d
comfortably made.
And leaving the best
until last, Terry Everitt
p r e s e n t e d a n
interesting lecture on
cosmeceuticals and
uncovered facts from
m y t h s a n d h o w
understanding skin
s t r u c t u r e a n d
ingredient chemistry
will better help us
u n d e r s t a n d h o w
products work or don't
work and why. He also
covered the relevance
of using precursor
i n g r e d i e n t s a n d
demys t i f i ed some
c o m m o n
m i s c o n c e p t i o n s
regarding ingredients
a n d t h e k i n d o f
q u e s t i o n s t h a t
therapists need to ask
their suppl iers to
validate how their
p roduc t s ac tua l ly
work. The purpose of
this lecture is to
support professionals
to gain confidence in
current use of cosmetic
chemistry for their
therapeutic purpose.
The day was supported
b y s o m e q u a l i t y
industry suppliers,
who were given the
opportunity to build
relationships and grow
the i r da tabase of
c l in ics , spas and
salons.
APAN thanks both
supp l i e r s , va lued
speakers as well as
delegates who took
time out of their busy
schedule to support
this event and gain
useful information for
their sustainability and
progress.
T h e f i n a l A PA N
Conference for the
year was held at
Hobart, Tasmania,
See page 110-113 for
r e p o r t o n t h i s
conference.
APJ 70
stIn 2015 Brisbane will host the first APAN Conference for the year on Sunday 31 May.
Put this date in your diary because we have an amazing program for you.
For further details visit www.apanetwork.com or contact APAN on 07 55930360 Email: [email protected]
APJ 71
companyprofile
APJ 72
Reaching a new milestone, Beauty
Therapy Training Australia (BTTA) – a
registered training organisation on the
Gold Coast, has just completed the
BTTA is currently offering training and second batch of government-funded
qualifications in the following areas:training with 25 very excited therapists
who have achieved their SIB70110
V O C A T I O N A L G R A D U A T E
CERTIFICATE IN IPL AND LASER HAIR
REDUCTION as well as their Laser
Licences.
RELOCATING TO NEW PREMISES
acupuncture, energy medicine and
biomesotherapy. She is renowned for her
integrative approached to health and healing.
Angie went on further to say, “We are
delighted with our new college environment
because it is aligned with our new approach
of integrative, regenerative aesthetics, and
while our training will be in skin-specific
units, we believe that placed within a holistic
medical environment it holds great
oppor tun i t i e s fo r fu tu re t r a in ing
collaborations so that we can offer units in
nutrition and other wellbeing modalities to
support skin health.”
Laser Tattoo Removal
Cosmetic Tattooing
LED Light Therapy
SIBBBSKS506A – Apply
Microderabrasion to improve skin
appearance
SIB70110 Vocational Graduate
Certificate in Intense Pulsed Light and We caught up with Angie Smith, principal Laser Hair Reductionof the college, who had some very exciting Micro Skin Needling
Paramedical Therapies
Chemical Peels
HLTN402B Maintain Infection Control
Standards in Office Practice Settings
In line with popular demand in 2015 they news to tell us. In line with the college's vision and philosophy, BTTA will also be launching Business Management qualification for Salons recently relocated to a new, innovative venue – the Beyond Good and Clinics, as well as educational seminars and workshops to help Health Clinic – a Holistic and Regenerative medical practice located salons gain skills and knowledge they need to grow their businesses at the Glades Golf Course in Robina, on the Gold Coast, Queensland. and practices.
“As a training facility the location is perfect,” Angie said, “as it is only The college offers training to qualification levels wherever applicable five minutes from the main highway so students can travel easily and applicants can learn on their own devices should they prefer this. either from Brisbane or from the airport if they are coming from However, through BTTA applicants have access also to quality another State or region and reach our destination with greater ease and equipment for purchase should they need to do so, “but we keep minimum traffic,” Angie Said. training separate to our equipment purchases,” Angie said.
Nested in the gardens at the Glades overlooking a beautiful lake, the “None of our students are pushed towards any purchases as BTTA as a new home for BTTA offers a serene, tranquil environment conducive Registered Training Organisation is strictly a training college and we to training and learning in an inspirational setting. The facility also pride ourselves in maintaining our focus and integrity on training,” offers treatments services to the general public, but students also have she stressed.the opportunity to experience some of the new concepts of integrative
treatment innovations that are redefining skin therapy.
Furthermore, the college will be operating alongside Beyond Good
Health Clinic. Dr Dzung Price, who is the principal medical
practitioner, has additional qualifications in nutritional and
environmental medicine, herbal medicine, anti-ageing medicine,
If you are considering upgrading your qualifications and would
like further information please do not hesitate to contact
BEAUTY THERAPY TRAINING AUSTRALIA on 07 55 590 889 or
email [email protected]
MEETING THE GROWING NEEDS FOR ADVANCED TECHNOLOGIES
memberprofile
APJ 74
Teresa Russo is a very gracious and
kind individual with an astute business
mind and a tenacity that would make
Rambo proud. She is indeed a survivor
who has overcome cancer, further
family tragedies, and due to many
pressures had to put her business
dream on hold for a period of time, only
to re-emerge even stronger and more
successful as the owner of three highly
successful clinics called Visible REINVENTING VISIBLE CHANGESChanges, located in Adelaide, South
Australia.
Teresa has been a member
o f A PA N s i n c e i t s
inception in June 2009 and
she is the member of
choice for this issue's
Member Profile. Because
we did not wish to miss
out on any details of her amazing journey we allowed her to write
her own story. Today, Teresa has sold two highly successful
clinics and is concentrating on just one Visible Changes clinic
and on the further expansion of her skincare formulations. We
trust her story will inspire you to achieve your own dreams.
ANOTHER CHALLENGE, BUT THE GIFT MAKES A WAY
collapse of a business that was turning over
$2 million a year.
Fortunately, I survived, but having been
out of action with my recovery I lost my
sight and vision for my business, but I can
honestly say that there is nothing more
motivating than the huge debts that were
mounting and the thought that this is what I
would leave my children if I should die.
This was not what I wanted.
The strength and resilience I gained
through my faith in God gave me the belief
and motivation to reinvent
Visible Changes by looking
at every little thing that we
did and making it even better
and new again – from the
way we offered a glass of
water to the way we did an
eyebrow wax or a facial
treatment.
However, this time around it was more difficult to regain our market
share as there were many more competitors, and finding the right staff
was also challenging. To emerge successfully I had to come up with
the Visible Changes point of difference. Once this plan was in place I
had to implement new systems and documented policies and
procedures to ensure uniformity of standards of service each and I began in the beauty industry back in 1974 working in all aspects of every time a client visited Visible Changes. I didn't realise it at the time beauty and aesthetics from lecturing, managing a successful chain of how successful these changes would be. Our new culture paid off and 14 hair and beauty salons with 240 staff, 70 of them beauty therapists, indeed it became our unique point of difference. Soon our clients were which were considered the diamonds of the business as their revenue talking about our services and that they came to us because they knew always surpassed the hairdressing side of business. I was also they would get a particular service delivered at the same standard, no involved for a period of time as a sales rep and was involved in matter which staff member delivered it. I didn't realise it at that time, exhibiting at expos both in Australia and overseas. At one stage I was but what emerged was not just a salon business, but a clear and strong principal at a Beauty College while studying and lecturing in cosmetic brand identity for which we gained a reputation.chemistry.
In terms of staff however, I realised I was dealing with a different Throughout those years and the various roles I was undertaking I was breed to what I had previously. Ten years before most of my in essence working for other people, and this was for a period of 18 employees had been previously employed in other industries. They years. To be perfectly honest, I really never had the desire to open my had an established work ethic before they studied and entered our own salon as I was always very well remunerated. industry. However, my current employees stayed at school longer and
entered work at a later age. They had never been trained to work However, in 1990 my third child (my son) was born with some serious unsupervised and therefore to establish uniform standards throughout health issues and this made me make the decision to open my own all our activities and treatments they needed in-depth and consistent business so that I could have the freedom to come and go as I needed in training, backed by very specific policies and procedures. This I set order to work around him and not let my employers down.out implementing.
As a result, I am now the owner of Visible Changes Clinics and While all of this was going on my marriage was failing and it did. Soon Skincare – a business model I launched in 1992 in Adelaide. Visible I found myself trying to reinvent Visible Changes, bring up and relate Changes has been a hugely successful business and at one point I had to my three children, run a house and deal with everyday living! three booming salons, which in the very conservative and small Where did I get the energy?Adelaide market has been very hard work.
To achieve this, I had to constantly evaluate my business strategies As we once again achieved success, a few years later we were hit with and regularly examine our business operations in order to remain another blow. This time it was the Tax Office. They decided to do an profitable and successful.audit and identified that there were errors in our accounting that left us
owing thousands of dollars. Another surprise for me was that I While Visible Changes was highly successful I did experience a major thought that because I was paying my accountant for compliance health challenge that virtually forced me to close the business down. advice that I was in safe hands. However, the law says otherwise. If As I was suffering from a life-threatening illness, 12 of my 18 staff left an error occurs in your accounting figures, even though it may have me within a six-month period believing that as I would not survive and been done by your accountant in the eyes of the law, they aren't die, so would their jobs and the business. This almost caused the
Courage at its BESTThe story of Visible Changes
By Tina Viney
APJ 75
responsible, you are. So again Visible Changes was under threat.
I was informed that we were targeted as our turnover was very high for
a beauty salon in Australia, let alone South Australia, so the Tax Office
decided to conduct an audit. Perhaps with a southern Italian surname
and a successful turnover they may have thought I was laundering
money, who knows. All I know was that I was the “chosen one”. Of
course the next challenge was the enormous tax bill with fees going
back five years. The amount I had to pay was huge and that alone was
going to be bigger than my house mortgage. As a result, I was in the
sad predicament of having to sell my beautiful home and uproot my
children and rent again. I felt I was going back in time 30 years and I
didn't know if I would survive the financial burden. Meanwhile, the
global financial crisis was upon us with its share of financial
challenges. The question I had was “would I survive?” But more
important, what did I have to do to ensure that I survived !
Looking at our expenses, paying staff was the biggest financial
burden, so I made the decision to downsize and terminate some
positions, as well as also trim the number of product companies we
were supporting.
With tighter financial times ahead we decided to once again elevate
our point of difference. I therefore decided that every Wednesday
afternoons the clinic would be closed and the time would be used
towardS staff training. This was a wonderful move. Our staff loved it
as they built comradeship and enjoyed the time learning together and
improving their skill sets. Through this training we were able to
provide a more polished and uniform customer service and gain better
skills to reach our sales targets. Our clients immediately noticed the
difference in their confidence and appreciated the new standard that
our staff were able to deliver. Our clients also appreciated that we
were investing in perfecting our techniques so that we can provide a
more enhanced client experience and better treatment outcomes. That
in itself created a wow factor that negated the negative of not having
any income coming on Wednesday afternoons, so the negative
became a positive as our clients graining greater trust in us, and trust is
a very important factor for the success of any business, and in
particular a service-oriented business such as a salon or clinic.
The next step was to improve our product-sales strategy. We had to
raise our product sales from 45% of turnover to at least 60%. Our
decision in the end was made for us as our supplier with whom we
The confidence in our skincare has also gained us an amazing
reputation that has led to not just returned purchases, but also several
plastic surgeons were so impressed by their patients’ skin results that
they asked us for our products to be available to them under their own
label. We now have on-going growth as a “private label” brand,
which has been mainly through medical clinics as our product’s
reputation continues to enjoy on-going momentum.
After almost 40 years in this wonderful industry the key strategies for
success in business haven't changed.
Staff are the face of any business. If
you think about it, where would a football team be if they didn't
train their team continually? They already know how to play
football don't they? What training offers them is the competitive
edge to excel. It is the same with staff.
Becoming aware of consumer needs. It is important that our were spending on average $300,000 a year informed us that they
clients are constantly asked if we are meeting their needs. There is would not stop their on-line Internet sales and this started affecting our
no point in having 50 new clients a week if we are not meeting business. We were this company's second-largest account Australia-
their needs.wide and had held that position for five years running, but that no
First impressions and last impressions are longer mattered to them we were told. Furthermore, they opened a important. Everyone wants to be part of something successful new account with a salon just 500 metres from us, so the decision was and feel a level of belonging and exclusivity, where they are made to cease trading with that company, to the horror and panic of my treated with courtesy and exceptional service as if they belong to a accountant, not to mention it also put fear in me as I had now to make a very special club.quick decision about a new product line that would need to replace the
Do not be afraid to be challenged. In today’s old one.world if you stand still you are actually going backwards. Use
technology, but do not lose sight of core values. Actually, while this was a challenge, in essence it forced me into Be true to yourself, do not be making the best business decision of my career. For 10 years I had
afraid to strive to achieve the very best for yourself. Have the been working towards formulating my own product range, so I confidence in your ability to deliver the very best, pass on your decided to return to my chemistry and finish it. This was a huge knowledge and skills to others. But above all, maintain the gamble and to achieve this I had nothing on the shelves of my clinics
for three months. Once again there was no better motivator to move passion! me ahead than the mounting debts and the Tax Office debt that I had to
pay. I was once again given the strength and the ideas to innovate and
this led to the eventual launch of the Visible Changes Skincare brand.
These challenges gave me the courage to persevere and this launch In business it isn't just about the big picture – it is the delivery of the was highly successful. Sales went through the roof, achieving 80% of finer details that collectively make all the difference in establishing our turnover. The staff loved that they have a wonderful new product client trust and loyalty and ultimately reputation and business success. that was actually our brand and they got behind it to recommend it and For Visible Changes these principles have been the foundation of our our clients know that our brand of skincare was exclusively sold only success.through Visible Changes, so securing sales was easier.
Our clients also loved the quality and results of the products and kept
coming back to us for all their services and products. We also noted
that our clients felt that they were part of something more exclusive…
Almost like a cult following .
In my opinion, the key ones
are the following:
Continual Staff Training –
Constantly update yourself on your clients' needs –
First impressions –
Embrace change –
To my fellow practitioners I say –
Remember that every problem is like a pimple on the
skin of life and if you search enough you will always find a
solution.
Teresa Russo can be contacted at Visible Changes
Phone 08 8223 7633
Email: [email protected]
APJ 76
Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...
When you want the perfect fit you need an
INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER
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APJ 78
Julie Maxwell is the founder and owner of Maxwell’s Skin & Body APJ 2: Share with us how you started as a business and Clinic a well-appointed clinic in Main Beach, one of the most how your business model has changed over the years?trendy and socially happening suburbs on the Gold Coast. Julie Julie Maxwell: has been a committed therapist for many years and has always
been at the cutting edge of her field of expertise, which in her
case has always been the skin. We interviewed Julie, so here is
her story.
APJ 1: What attracted you to this industry and how did
you get started in this profession?
Julie Maxwell:
In 1993 I decided to step out and opened my own
business – Maxwell's Skin & Body Clinic in Main Beach on the Gold
Coast. I established what I believe was a new-style modern salon with
proper rooms, leaving behind curtains as the only screen between
rooms, which was the norm back in those days. The services I
provided included a cross-section of beauty therapy procedures that
included some spa treatments that were very much the trend in those
days. However, I soon realised that I wanted to shift the culture of the
business to become predominantly a skin therapy clinic and this led to
my interest to further my knowledge and education in ingredient From a child I have always had a great interest in chemistry.skin and really never saw myself doing anything else, so I guess I am lucky to have achieved what I really wanted as a career, and I guess In my search for a quality world-class brand I met a highly respected when you love something it is much easier to excel in this area.skincare biochemist and formulator in the US – Rebecca Gadberry
from YG laboratories.I originally trained in Maitland, NSW, but then moved to Queensland
in 1988 and worked in a salon and undertook a variety of industry Rebecca inspired me so much with her knowledge of the skin and roles. I then was hired by a cosmetic company and travelled around ingredient chemistry that I decided to use her formulations for my Australia lecturing and conducting workshops on the then new private-label skincare brand. This product met all my criteria for a glycolic acid treatments. quality product and furthermore, it helped me build a loyal clientele
who could trust me and return to me for all their skincare needs.Following that I was offered a position with the Golden Door at Willowvale in Queensland, which was considered one of Australia's In 2000 Rebecca Gadberry visited Australia and we exhibited at the leading lifestyle and spa retreats. However, it was this experience that Sydney Beauty Expo, but the industry was still not ready for the made me realise my niche. I found working on clients who came for a concept of private label as a salon brand. We were ahead of our time, one-off treatment and experience was not where my heart was. It left but it was proving very successful for me and my foresight into what me unfulfilled. I wanted something more meaningful – working to would happen with Internet sales in the future would pay off tenfold. resolve stubborn skin concerns and achieve breakthroughs solutions Being exclusive is the only way to go!was much more exhilarating. I realised I needed a career shift that
would allow me to focus on what gave me a sense of achievement, In March 2001 I attended a course at the University of California in its which was working mainly with the skin.Los Angeles UCLA extension. This course covered cosmetic
Fulfilling a lifelong DreamFulfilling a lifelong Dream
APJ 79
chemistry and cosmetic
ingredients. There was
no similar education in
Australia at the time and
the knowledge I gained
really pushed my career
and knowledge to the
next level and made me
thirsty to learn more.
I
would have to say that
my studies in cosmetic
chemistry at UCLA
would have to be the
highlight of my career,
and the turning point
t ha t gave me the
impetus and drive to
pursue skin therapy at a
more advanced level. It
h e l p e d m e b e t t e r
understand the skin and
identify more effective ways of working with ingredients and and businesses inherited quite extensive pressures. Unless they lift formulations and how they impact the skin. As a result, I am able to their game, it is no wonder that many are not surviving. Today, staff achieve more advanced, paramedical results in skin improvement and improvement must be on-going and a business needs to work on its anti-ageing outcomes. This also led me to step out and work with a unique brand identity and ensure they are kept up to date with cosmetic medical practitioner who now offers injectable procedures advances to remain competitive and to continue to be perceived as the within our clinic. expert for their clients. There is more work involved, but for those that
invest in these areas they can be successful.
I enjoy the variety of treatments that I can provide
my clients and being able to resolve more challenging skin problems,
such as acne, pigmentation and other skin-corrective procedures. There are many areas that I am excited about. I am
With the various technologies we now have and with IPL we are able thrilled that APAN is working towards the issue of industry to achieve amazing visible results that were not possible a few years regulations as this is very important for the industry, especially as new ago. advances enter the industry. We have so many more option now in
terms of ingredients and technology. Once we gain the appropriate
knowledge and education, what we can now achieve with our
treatments and for the benefit of our clients is quite incredible. Our
profession now offers a lot of job satisfaction knowing that you can
achieve so much more than previous years, and I believe these
advances will continue to grow over the next few years. It is quite
exciting really! To accommodate our growth Maxwell’s Skin and
Body Clinic expanded and we had to take larger premises, not far from
where we were previously. I am thrilled with our new clinic, it’s I found the course excellent and gained a great deal spacious, luxurious and allows for our growth and expansion.
also from the theoretical component, which was quite comprehensive
and established me with a stronger foundation. As I had only worked
with IPL before and not laser, it was wonderful to learn the differences
in capabilities between laser and IPL. Gaining this knowledge was
valuable, and achieving a formal qualification gave me greater It's important to belong to a professional industry
body that can support me as a business owner and help keep me confidence in my work and the ability to achieve more.
abreast of advances, regulations, new trends and industry
developments. It is through APAN that I was able to secure
government-funding to undertake my qualifications in laser and IPL.
I believe that the advent of Social Media changed the
whole communication platform for everyone. There are now many
voices that can influence our clients' decision to undertake treatments
and to purchase products. Add to this the global economic downturn
APJ 3: Tell us a
little about your
career highlights?
Julie Maxwell:
APJ 4: What do you love the most about your work?APJ 7: What industry changes excite you the most and Julie Maxwell: how do you view the future?
Julie Maxwell:
APJ 5. You recently participated in the Government-
Funded training and gained your Vocational Graduate
Certificate in IPL and Laser Hair Reduction through
Beauty Therapy Training Australia with Angela Smith.
How did you find the training and what did you gain from
it?
Julie Maxwell:
APJ 8: Why did you join APAN and how has it benefited
you?
Julie Maxwell:
APJ 6: What is a major challenge you have faced as a
business and how did you overcome it?
Julie Maxwell:Maxwells Skin and Body Clinic is located in Tedder
Avenue, Main Beach, Gold Coast Queensland
Ph: 07 5591 1744 | Email: [email protected]
industryreport
APJ 80
This report is an excerpt from the lecture I presented recently at the anyone fool you that you can get along with yesterday's knowledge
APAN Conference in Tasmania and should be read in conjunction and skills. While knowledge and experience are valuable and
with my previous article on pages 24-26 on the Major Global Shifts cumulatively they can contribute to an important issue – wisdom, you
and how they will Impact the future. can't afford to camp around yesterday's knowledge – you need to be
constantly reaching for new information and evolving your current
I had recently received a copy of the latest IBISWorld report on the abilities and capabilities so that can better meet the demands of a
2013-2014 activity of the hair and beauty industry and while it changing world and consumer expectations.
required some sorting out of what pertained to hair and what to beauty,
I was able to extrapolate some interesting data that pointed to the
current state of affairs and the immediate forecast for our industry as
far as Australia is concerned.Progress doesn't happen without putting in place an action plan and
strategies that you will act upon to propel your growth and
advancement.
IBISWorld is considered as Australia's largest provider of industry-Today, our industry has so much more to offer us. New technologies, based research, and since 1971 IBISWorld has been providing new ways at looking at the skin, new scientific discoveries are opening thoroughly researched, reliable and current business information that up the doors to a vast array of options with better outcomes than we is considered priceless to many industries. They employ a team of never dreamt of just 5-10 years ago. Tools to facilitate your success to dedicated expert analysts who research economic, demographic and a constantly growing and more robust business and practice, but government data so that businesses don't have to. This information is perhaps more importantly, change that will give you a greater sense of then provided at a fee (usually around $1300 to $1500) to interested fulfilment and pride in what you are doing as you move forward to parties. Currently they provide valuable insights on Australia's 500 achieve your goals.industries, its top 2,000 companies and its key business environment
indicators, so organisations and businesses can be guided to make Anthony Robbins once said “THE REAL PURPOSE OF A GOAL business decisions based on statistics now and into the future. IS WHAT IT MAKES OF YOU AS A HUMAN BEING, WHILE
As we come to the end of the year there is much that we can YOU PURSUE IT. WHO YOU BECOME AS A PERSON IS THE
contemplate on what we have achieved and where we have failed, as ULTIMATE REWARD”.
both realities are important. However, my principles for success are
quite simple. Success is the result of collaboration of three key areas: Let's consider the following: How do you feel when you have reached
a goal? Euphoric, confident, stronger, good about yourself – correct?
How long do these feelings last? Usually a few days, or months and Identify the negatives and then they dissipate. Why? Because the exhilaration comes not just as failures, but don't waste your time on them. Spend most of your a result of what you have achieved, but what also has happened in you energy seeking answers and identifying positive solutions on how you when you achieved your goal. If we camp around passed successes can expand your vision and move forward towards achievement. You we will slowly dwindle because we will stop growing. Goals are should only spend 10% of your time and energy identifying losses and about growth on personal, professional and business levels. Unless problems and 90% of your time and energy finding answers and you constantly challenge yourself to grow you will slowly stagnate.solutions to your challenges. Did you know that the one thing that the
world's top 500 companies have in common? They all had a positive This report will present the findings as identified by IBISWorld. expectation that their future would be a good one. Positive attitude However, as mentioned above, they do not represent the whole picture attracts answers and solutions to your needs like a magnet, so stay with regards to the Australian cosmetic and beauty industry, which is committed, focused and believing in positive expectations.presented in my report on pages 24-26 that cover the international trends that are now also starting to be reflected in the Australian
Don't let market.
3. Incremental consistent application of intended strategies of
where you are today and where you wish to be tomorrow:
WHO IS IBISWorld?
1. Positive Attitude and Vision:
2. On-going Skills Development and Improvement:
you
Update on Australian Skincare and Beauty Services Statistics
By Tina Viney
APJ 81
OVERHEADS:
RISING WAGES:
CHANGES THROUGH ADVANCES:
PRICE WARS:
FRANCHISES & COSMETIC MEDICAL CLINICS:
For the benefit of future planning I want to share with you a few
important issues:
1. AUSTRALIAN STATISTICS
2. INDUSTRY CHANGES –MAJOR MARKETS BY AGE BRACKET 3. WINNER'S MINDSET –In reviewing the age bracket of consumers that are visiting
beauty salons in Australia the following was reported:
AUSTRALIAN STATISTICS
BUSINESS FAILURE RATES
Market Share concentration
The latest ABS Counts of Australian Business Data reveals:
Low entry barrier and limited regulations:
Low profit margin:
THREATS AND THE COMPETITIVE LANDSCAPEAccording to IBISWorld there are six areas that are causing
threat to the industry. These are:
COMPETITION:
due to large number of businesses that will continue to enter the
market due to low barriers to enter the market
Rent costs represent a relatively high proportion
of revenue as salons and clinics need to be situated in areas with
high visibility and foot traffic.
Rising wage costs have put pressure on
profitability that is hindering business growth.
Industry is rapidly
diversifying with many traditional “beauty” procedures now also
offered in cosmetic medical clinics extending the competition.
Industry profitability has fallen over the past five
years as intensifying competition has forced operators to offer
lower prices to attract consumer growth.
The rise of
franchise operations that are able to benefit from economies of
scale and achieve higher returns offering excellent services at
affordable prices has also put pressure on many salons and clinics. and how they predict the future
so that you can get prepared for them
How to overcome obstacles to achieve on-
going success
15-35 years represent a smaller share of the market 29.5%Buckminster Fuller created the “Knowledge Doubling Curve”; he
35-54 years represent the largest market 39.7% noticed that until 1900 human knowledge doubled approximately
every century. By the end of World War II knowledge was doubling 55 years and over 30.8%every 25 years. Today things are not as simple as different types of
knowledge have different rates of growth. For example, In essence, over 70% are aged 35 or over. This category is more nanotechnology knowledge is doubling every two years and clinical financially secure. They are often employed or business owners. knowledge every 18 months. But on average human knowledge is This age group is also very concerned with their health and wellbeing doubling every 13 months. According to IBM, the build out of the as well as their appearance. This is the reason for the growing anti-Internet will lead to the doubling of knowledge every 12 hours. ageing phenomenon, which is experiencing the industry's primary
growth area. Due to this boom there is a growing need for mature
students and a greater opportunity for mums returning to work, as the
anti-ageing client does also look for empathy from a practitioner who According to IBISWorld the Australian beauty industry has exhibited
also has an understanding of their ageing needs through experience modest growth despite turbulent economic conditions. Over the past
and not just training.five years and during 2014-15 revenue is forecast to grow by 1.8% to
reach $3.9 billion. However, these figures do not show the whole
picture. They only reflect beauty as being basic beauty services –
they do not reflect skin management services and clinical aesthetics. According to IBISWorld hair and beauty service operators have a high
rate of business failure – between 6-8% of salons failing each year.
However, our estimation and our own research can confirm that those
figures are incorrect as they only reflect de-registration of ABN
Numbers. Our figures indicate a percentage that is closer to 60-80%. 27.4% of the business are sole traders Some of the reasons include;
71.1% employ 19 staff or less
63.3% of the industry generate less than $200,000 pa. Since barrier to entry is
low, some therapists establish their own salons, but lack the necessary Looking at these statistics, if you are a sole trader and have low business management skills to operate it properly. Furthermore, there overheads as a sole trader that may be OK, but if you consider yourself are no regulatory restrictions as to who can operate a beauty therapy as a business with staff, rent and numerous outgoings, earning a service and what qualifications are needed.turnover of $200,000 will definitely be problematic. No business
should be struggling with such low figures. As part of our APAN
member's coaching program we show you how to achieve this amount Intensive price-based competition has also through just two sales per week. Yet, many still consider membership created an environment of low profit margins. Wage growth has also as an expense instead of an investment. Those who are prudent gain placed downward pressure on profitability. As cosmetic procedures amazing value from their membership and use it wisely to learn how are also gaining greater acceptance in the community, this is driving to increase their revenue. It all comes back to reaching out and increased demand for these services and related treatments. However, gaining benefit from the services and coaching that is part of your the traditional business model of providing a little of this and a little of standard membership with APAN. that is no longer is profitable. There are many services that businesses
need to consider if it is worth continuing them, or if is it best to
advance to a more specialised and focused business model. The
industry is maturing and the demand for specialised services is now
becoming the norm rather than the exception.
Beauty services face a high level of competition
KEY EMERGING TRENDS REPORTED INCLUDED THE HEALTH AND WELLNESS REVOLUTION
FOLLOWING:
ORGANIC SALON SEGMENT
ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE MARKET
GROWING TREND FOR PERMANENT HAIR REDUCTION
PRODUCTS AND SERVICESNail Care:
Indoor tanning
THE WINNING MINDSET
SKIN SERVICES
Today, consumers think more, compare price, evaluate value for money
and look for evidence of results before they commit. This means that
the industry needs to provide independently validated, evidence-based
results to convince consumers on the reliability of their services and the
guaranteed results.
Another shift we are seeing is the growing need of consumers to
engage in practices and procedures that minimise the possibility of
disease. Relaxation, anti-stress treatments and wellness therapies The organic salon market is expected to grow quickly over the next
were traditionally found at the spa, but this is no longer the case. This five years. While it is still a niche market, the number of salons
is also reflected strongly in the international trends by the Kline offering organic-based products and treatments is experiencing
Report, which I mention in my previous article.growth. Consumers are becoming increasingly aware of the
environmental impact of chemical and other additives contained in
some skincare products, and many are selective and increasingly While information on the anti-ageing skincare market was only hinted seeking salons that offer more natural and healthier services. The in the ISBWorld Report however, a more complete picture is environmental movement is highly associated in health and wellness presented by global researchers in the Kline Report, and we are seeing and is a natural fit for the beauty industry. This is a consumer-driven similar trends reflected in the Australian skincare market. According trend and should be given due consideration when planning your to IBSWorld, clinical skincare practices – whether aesthetic therapies products and services.or medical, were not included in their report, as they defined beauty as
predominantly hair and basic beauty.
Revenue from depilatory hair removal has declined over the past five Meanwhile the Kline Report stated that the Professional Aesthetics
years as more effective hair-removal techniques have become Industry shows great opportunities for amazing growth in skincare
popular. IPL and Laser hair reduction have gained momentum and and in particular the “Premium” or anti-ageing product innovations.
although more expensive than waxing it is perceived as a more Their growth in demand promises to challenge the whole skincare
effective means of reducing hair growth. The growing popularity of landscape, with continued growth in preferred consumer choice
these services has contributed to the industry's overall revenue towards performance products.
growth. However, innovative technologies have now developed hand-
held devices that consumers can purchase directly from outlets such as Growing by almost 500% over the past 20 years, skin treatments and
the Shave Shop and Harvey Norman. This trend will continue to grow nonsurgical cosmetic procedures are mirroring consumers'
and salons and clinics will have to review if they wish to provide these preferences for minimally invasive treatments. And in line with the
as a home-based option.demand the robust growth continues.
In Australia we are saw a 20% growth in 2013, and 2014 so far is Nail care represents the second-largest share of industry showing similar figures, which is quite amazing compared to the
revenue and services vary from $20 to $100, even though the new conservative 1.8% predicted by IBISWorld.trend is towards gel and shellac gels that are considered a less risky
alternative. Key factors driving growth include greater consumer awareness of
options available to them, and their popularity is based on their is rapidly on the decline as State regulations follow benefits, less down time and discomfort, with a whole body of the lead of NSW and Victoria banning solariums that were introduced treatments and increased distribution similarly contributing to the in 2012 and that banned commercial solarium beds by the end of 2014. market's overall growth.Other States promptly passed similar laws as research has
accumulated links to skin cancer and solarium beds. According to
Better Health Channel, a provider of health and medical information,
the number of commercial sun beds is rapidly falling to over 62%, Changes at the rate that we will continue to experience can be with operators switching to spray tanning. However, media coverage challenging. However, while we can fatigue when we are constantly is also applying pressure to this segment by focusing on the potentially coming up against challenges, if we continue to persevere something harmful ingredients in sprays, including dihydroxyacetone. amazing happens. We develop strength to the point where we become
conditioned to pressure as a normal state of being and we find it easier
to keep standing. Just like building muscles when pressure is applied
to it, initially it hurts, but continued pressure results in muscle growth These represent 4.1% of industry revenue. As new technologies and and the muscles become stronger, so much so that they become advanced treatments enter the market the old concept of the traditional conditioned to the pressure of weight without feeling as fatigued any basic “facial category” is coming under threat, and over the past five more. The same thing happens to us as we continue to push through years is slowly declining. It is no longer considered as a good and look upon challenges as just something that we will overcome and investment to consumers unless it can deliver noticeable skin they are only a temporary issue.improvement and anti-ageing benefits. Cosmetic medical clinics are
rapidly leading as the preferred option in anti-ageing skin It's all a matter of attitude. There is no doubt we all have a story, about improvement treatments as they are perceived as the “experts” in this what we have had to overcome, and sometimes we even feel sorry for area. ourselves. However, to move forward we sometimes need to let go of
that story to make room for the new story that awaits us to unfold. Our Surprisingly in this economy the businesses that are surviving are life experiences have made us more wise and we can rise above any providing high-priced, value-added benefits that consumers perceive adversity we have experienced in the past. as an excellent investment.
In closing, another inspirational and wise quote from Anthony
Robbins is “THE ONLY IMPOSSIBLE JOURNEY IS THE ONE
YOU NEVER BEGIN”.
APJ 82
I was recently watching the Dr Oz show and he was interviewing
a dermatologist and was asking her of an effective solution for
under-eye puffiness. Without hesitation she responded – witch
hazel and went right ahead to explain why this simple, yet highly
active natural ingredient is so beneficial for puffy or
inflammatory conditions.
Back in 1969, when I undertook my initial beauty therapy training
witch hazel was considered one of the most reputable
astringents and a staple in our ingredient arsenal for skin
treatments. Amazingly enough it is still considered by
dermatologists as a credible skincare ingredient. I therefore
thought it warrants re-examination as a useful ingredient in any
salon or clinic.
WHERE DOES WITCH HAZEL COME FROM?
ACTIVE PROPERTIES OF WITCH HAZEL
ACTIVE CONSTITUENTS OF WITCH HAZEL
tannins,
bitters,
gallic acid,
catechins,
gallotannins,
hamamelitannins,
flavonoids (quercentin, kaempferol),
phenolic acids,
saponins, and
safrole
Some of these constituents are big contributors to Hamamelis
virginiana benefits.
The gallotannins are mainly found in witch hazel leaves. The
Hamamelis virginiana leaf extracts showed a high concentration of
not only gallotannins, but also procyanidins and catechins, these last
two active constituents in a less considerable proportion.
Witch hazel is a shrub, about six to eight metres tall and originally Octagalloyl hexose represents the major tannin from the active from North America. The witch hazel family is composed of more constituents found in Hamamelis virginiana.than 20 genera and about 100 species around the world [1]. The
flowers are bright yellow and the fruits encapsulated. This shrub It is interesting to note that witch hazel contains a very small blooms in autumn and winter. percentage of Safrole a known carcinogen, however, it seems as the
quantity of Safrole in witch hazel is so small, it does not constitute a It's botanical name is Hamamelidaceae and it comes from the health hazard.Hamamilis Genus. The name witch hazel derives from the similitude
of witch hazel leaves with those of the hazel nut.
Studies confirm that extracts from witch hazel Hamamelis virginiana,
as well as green tea (Camellia sinensis) contain antioxidant In order to gain an understanding of why witch hazel is effective and polyphenolic compounds that are known to protect the skin from how to use it we need to examine its active constituents. Among them sunburn and photo-ageing when administered topically or you will find the following: systemically[6].
keyingredient
The Health and Skin BENEFITS of Witch Hazel
(Hamamelis virginiana)By Tina Viney
APJ 83
Also some of the properties and characteristics that make witch hazel
a very interesting herb for skin therapists is its anti-inflammatory,
anti-microbial and antioxidant properties, and these are due to the
high contents of tannins that this herb possesses.
Because of its strong astringent properties witch hazel has been
effectively used for the treatment of hemorrhoids[9]. Traditionally,
hemorrhoids (swollen veins) are associated with chronic constipation,
straining during bowel movements and prolonged sitting on the toilet
all of which interfere with blood flow to and from the area, causing it
to pool and enlarge blood vessels. As a result, the veins around the
anus stretch under pressure and may bulge or swell. Witch hazel when
topically applied near the affected area can relieve pain and decrease
the dilation of blood vessels. Additionally, the anti-inflammatory
properties of witch hazel also help to reduce swelling.
The astringent and anti-inflammatory properties of witch hazel also
assists in toning the skin around the eyes and refining the appearance
of enlarged pores through its constricting action.
Furthermore, witch hazel possesses antibacterial properties. The
tannins are also very useful to protect the skin against bacterial
attacks. This is one of the reasons witch hazel is believed to be an
effective antibacterial agent and is beneficial for problematic skin
with skin blemishes and even acne. Witch hazel is therefore an
effective skin tonic that can assist in toning and tightening the
appearance of skin pores, preventing bacterial infections and helping
the skin to be better protected against external bacterial attack.
The astringent effects of tannins also help to stop bleeding in minor
wounds and bruises. However, due to the high amount of tannins this The use of astringents as witch hazel ointment for the treatment of herb contains, witch hazel is only recommended for external use.skin disorders and skin injuries in children aged 27 days to 11 years
was also documented in another clinical trial performed by the
University Hospital of Luebeck. In this clinical trial witch hazel There are many cosmetic herbal remedies that make use of ointment efficacy was compared and matched with that of astringent herbs such as witch hazel to achieve very good aesthetic dexpanthenol ointment. The results were similar in both cases but we results. You will therefore find witch hazel in many well-known have to highlight that the tolerability of Hamamelis virginiana was commercial after-shaves and facial and skincare products. Many considered as excellent [14]. cosmetic and anti-ageing herbal remedies make use of witch hazel
astringent properties as a key ingredients, including in their masks for
the purpose of refining and calming the skin.[7].One of the key benefits of witch hazel is its impressive anti-
inflammatory properties on conditions such as diaper rash, razor burn However, you can also purchase pure witch hazel from most
and bug bites. Inflammation is caused by free radicals in skin cells, pharmacies to use in your treatments. You can also use it mixed with
and scientists at Japan's Shiga Central Laboratory studied 65 plant aloe vera as a soothing gel, or mixed with clay masks to further refine
extracts for their potential anti-inflammatory applications as an anti-the skin.
ageing treatment for skin. Only two of the extracts exhibited active
oxygen-scavenging effects and protective activity against cell Another documented use of witch hazel refers to its power to treat
damage, with one being Hamamelis virginiana.varicose veins, mainly due again to the astringent power of tannins
contained in the witch hazel, able to constrict blood vessels and
minimise the effect of varicose veins.Tannins and volatile oils are the main active constituents in witch
hazel. These constituents contribute to the strong astringent effect of As part of after-sun lotions, data provided by studies on the subject witch hazel. Pharmacological studies have suggested that witch hazel suggests that witch hazel's anti-inflammatory action is useful in
16,17strengthens veins and is anti-inflammatory. Topical creams are protecting the skin against solar inflammation. A 10% lotion can be currently used in Europe to treat inflammatory skin conditions, such very effective in defending the skin against sun damage. Several as eczema. One double-blind trial found that a topical witch hazel studies on the subject report its use as part of liquid and dry extracts ointment (applied four times per day) was as effective as the topical where together with other herbs such as Matricaria recutita,
18anti-inflammatory drug bufexamac for people with eczema. Aesculus hippocastanum , Rhamnus purshiana and However, another trial found that witch hazel was no better than a Cinnamomum zeylanicum the extracts showed an intensification in
19placebo when compared to hydrocortisone for people with eczema. solar-protection factors, being able to contribute their emollient and Witch hazel is approved in Germany for relief of local mouth moistening properties of the after-sun creams and lotions [19].inflammations such as canker sores.
TREATMENT BENEFITS
WITCH HAZEL FOR WOUNDS AND BRUISESTHE EFFECTS OF WITCH HAZEL ON SKIN DISORDERS
AND SKIN INJURIES
WITCH HAZEL COSMETIC PROPERTIES
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
HOW IT WORKS
APJ 84
Texas: American Botanical Council, 1998, 1501.
16. Bernard P, Balansard P, Balansard G, Bovis A.
Venotonic pharmacodynamic value of galenic
preparations with a base of hamamelis leaves. J
Pharm Belg 1972;27:50512.
17. Korting HC, Schafer-Korting M, Hart H, et al.
Anti-inflammatory activity of Hamamelis distillate
applied topically to the skin. Eur J Clin Pharmacol
1993;44:3158.
18. Swoboda M, Meurer J. Treatment of atopic
dermatitis with Hamamelis ointment. Br J
Phytother 1991/2;2:12832.
19. Korting HC, Schafer-Korting M, Klovekorn W, et
al. Comparative efficacy of hamamelis distillate
and hydrocortisone cream in atopic eczema. Eur J
Clin Pharmacol 1995;48:4615.
20. Blumenthal M, Goldberg A, Brinckman J.
Herbal Medicine: Expanded Commission E
Monographs. Newton, MA: Integrative Medicine
Communications, 2000, 4138.
21. Blumenthal M, Busse WR, Goldberg A, et al.
(eds). The Complete Commission E Monographs: Therapeutic Guide to While new innovative ingredients enter the market, witch hazel is a
proven herbal remedy that can still hold its place in the professional Herbal Medicines. Boston, MA: Integrative Medicine Communications, 1998, skin therapy field. 231.
22. McGuffin M, Hobbs C, Upton R, Goldberg A. American Herbal Products
Association's Botanical Safety Handbook. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, 1997,
105.1. Duke JA. CRC Handbook of Medicinal Herbs. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press,
23. McGuffin M, Hobbs C, Upton R, Goldberg A (eds). American Herbal 1985, 221.
Products Association's Botanical Safety Handbook. Boca Raton, FL: CRC 2. Erdelmeier CA, Cinatl J Jr, Rabenau H, et al. Antiviral and antiphlogistic
Press, 1997, 5960.activities of Hamamelis virginiana bark. Planta Med 1996;62:2415.
3. Baumgärtner M, Köhler S, Moll I, et al. Localized treatment of herpes
labialis using hamamelis special extract: a placebo-controlled double-blind
study. Z Allerg Med 1998;74:15861.
4. Laux P, Oschmann R. Witch hazel Hamamelis virgincia L. Zeitschrift
Phytother 1993;14:15566.
5. Wichtl M. Herbal Drugs and Phytopharmaceuticals. Boca Raton, FL: CRC
Press, 1994, 26870.
6. Plein K, Burkard G, Hotz J. Treatment of chronic diarrhea in Crohn disease.
A pilot study of the clinical effect of tannin albuminate and ethacridine lactate.
Fortschr Med 1993;111:1148 [in German].
7. Leung AY, Foster S. Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients Used in
Foods,Drugs, and Cosmetics, 2d ed. New York: John Wiley & Sons, 1996,
16870.
8. Ellingwood F. American Materia Medica, Therapeutics and
Pharmacognosy. Sandy, OR: Eclectic Medical Publications, 1919, 1998, 354.
9. European Scientific Cooperative on Phytotherapy. Hamamelidis folium
(Hamamelis leaf). ESCOP Monographs on the Medicinal Uses of Plant
Drugs. Exeter, UK: ESCOP, 1997.
10. Blumenthal M, Busse WR, Goldberg A, et al. (eds). The Complete
German Commission E Monographs: Therapeutic Guide to Herbal
Medicines. Austin, TX: American Botanical Council and Boston: Integrative
Medicine Communications, 1998, 231.
11. Blumenthal M, Busse WR, Goldberg A, et al. The Complete German
Commission E Monographs. Therapeutic Guide to Herbal Medicines. Austin,
Texas: American Botanical Council, 1998, 1156.
12. Weiss R. Herbal Medicine. Gothenburg, Sweden: Ab Arcanum and
Beaconsfield, UK: Beaconsfield Publishers Ltd, 1988, 342.
13. Blumenthal M, Busse WR, Goldberg A, et al. The Complete German
Commission E Monographs. Therapeutic Guide to Herbal Medicines. Austin,
Texas: American Botanical Council, 1998, 231.
14. Duke JA. CRC Handbook of Medicinal Herbs. Boca Raton, FL: CRC
Press, 1985, 221.
15. Blumenthal M, Busse WR, Goldberg A, et al. The Complete German
Commission E Monographs. Therapeutic Guide to Herbal Medicines. Austin,
REFERENCES
APJ 85
holisticbeauty
APJ 86
This year's A5M Anti-Ageing Medicine and Aesthetics
Conference program held in August in Melbourne was focused
on the theme – Stress & Ageing: Taking Theory to Practice.
Featuring world-authorities on this subject offered delegates an
incredible array of the latest findings of evidence based
information on this all important subject that was beneficial for
practitioners across the board. It was encouraging to also see
several APAN Members – aesthetic therapists and dermal
therapists participate and take advantage of the wealth of
knowledge that was presented at this event.
One of the key-note speakers was Dr Andrew Heyman, world
renowned Integrative Medical Practitioner and internationally
recognised natural therapies expert. Dr Heyman revealed
scientific updates on Rg3, Nicotinomide, Riboside and
Tocotrienols as representing the cutting edge of herbal
medicines and their use in stress-related treatment protocols. APJ 2: What new information do we have on how stress His information was compelling in addressing the incredible affects the brain?ways that stress can compromise health and effective new ways Dr Heyman:of mitigating its impact on human health.
We were delighted that Dr Heyman accepted to speak to us for
the benefit of our members and readers. Here are some of the
highlights of his interview.
APJ 1: Dr Heyman from your findings what factors have
accelerated stress in our modern society?
Dr Heyman:
that can contribute and impact our personal sense of self worth and
identity. These can contribute to accelerated ageing and wellness.
Other less obvious considerations are the inability to cope when
continued stress can impact our resilience and contribute to
overwhelm and psychological issues.
We are now identifying the important role of a robust social support
group and the pursuit of spiritual meaning and purpose as these can
give us a positive sense of identity and give us the ability to
successfully building quality relationships, which is such an
important issue for our wellbeing. These elements in our lives are
worth investing in as they have the potential to strengthen our self
efficacy and give us the power to make changes. They give us the
ability to become better aware of our emotional terrain and helping us
develop resilience and identify ways to support ourselves both
physically and psychologically so that we can best respond to stress
and manage it better.
We now have sufficient scientific evidence that
highlights the potential for stress to cause injury and alter the stress
responses in the brain. While there is good science to identify what
happens to the adrenal glands, not enough attention is given to what is
happening in the brain. Some physicians look at addressing the impact
of stress as an adrenal fatigue issue and often give little consideration
to what is happening to the brain, which can present a different story.
Evidence-based approach is now pointing to the importance of also
considering the injury that stress can play on the brain and how it can
alter the brain's architecture, contribute to abnormal response and also I consider both the traditional points of view, as well as
cause injury. These findings are challenging the importance of some less obvious considerations that we are now discovering that can
looking at how the body is impacted by stress in greater detail, as impact the body and alter it temporarily and even permanently. The
stress matters. This is an issue that has been largely ignored in the past.key ones are major life events such as divorce, death and even job loss
STRESS AND THE IMMUNE-BRAIN CONNECTION
APJ 87
If we look at statistics in Australia, according to a 2008 report from work as anti-inflammatory agents in the brain, as does acupuncture,
Medibank Private, the cost of stress-related incidences is costing diet and counseling – both sides must be managed. You can not
Australia $14.81 billion. address the one at the exclusion of the other.
The endocrine system is responsible for many different
hormones. As far as stress is concerned cortisol, which is a hormone
made by the two adrenal glands (one on each side of the kidney) is
essential for life and is critical in helping us cope with stress. Cortisol There are some excellent Chinese herbs that have been helps maintain our blood pressure, supports the immune function and
clinically proven to modulate the immune system and balance it. In the body's anti-inflammatory processes. Located inside the brain, the fact, more and more natural compounds have now been found to be pituitary gland regulates the amount of cortisol released by the adrenal almost as active as pharmaceuticals and they are changing the glands. Cortisol needs to be in a constant state of flux responding and landscape of the market from a regulatory perspective. For example defending our body to better cope with stress.RG3 (20 ®-Ginsenoside Rg3) is a ginseng derived neuropeptide with
amazing anti-inflammatory properties. This special compound is However, with excessive and prolong stress abnormalities may occur available in a spray and it reduces neurological excitation and is also and cortisol can get stuck and not function correctly. Cortisol can also known to regenerate neuron cells.determine the individuality of other hormones e.g. how insulin and
cortisol may respond in acute stressful conditions their impact on the Another is NAD (nicotinamide) an amazing molecule – a close availability of good sugar to be readily available to the tissues. relative of the B-vitamin niacin, with similar vitamin activity that is
proven to play an important role in certain biochemical mechanisms The problem with chronic stress is that it does not allow the body that affect lifespan. Nicotinamide is a chemical precursor of a sufficient time to repair and rejuvenate and this can perpetuate molecule that definitely plays a role in various biochemical pathological issues that can be precipitated by long term altered mechanisms that support health and a vital cofactor in the silencing of insulin sensitivity. Also thyroid hormones and the conversion from genes that contribute to inflammation. Nicotinamide can actually T4 to T3 can contribute to issues of fatigue and weight gain. bring about a kind of rejuvenation of human fibroblast cells when they
are undergoing the ageing process – it is an excellent brain food.Cortisol abnormalities in men can contribute to low testosterone,
while in women it can alter the ratio of oestrogen/progesterone and Sterolins are plant sterols that are known immune system modulators cause oestrogen dominance that can contribute to infertility and and balance the immune system. They are also known to benefit in decline in progesterone in menopausal women. We know that stress conditions of inflammation. Sterolins are known to fine-tune immune can also contribute to cortisol-steal and this contributes to the decline system and turn on natural killer cells, which also benefit individuals in reproductive hormones. By using therapies and strategies to who suffer from allergies. Some of these are not currently available in balance and strengthen one's stress resilience will assist in getting Australia, but it is anticipated that they will be in the near future.their hormones into balance.
Cortisol is responsible for the body's anti-inflammatory
response. When high stress is present immunity will be suppressed
and this can precipitate potential infections. With low levels of In the US the introduction of integrative medicine is cortisol you lose that regulatory response of hormones in the body and growing slowly in recognition. I have a strong involvement with this contributes to inflammation and autoimmune conditions. The various academic centres and currently over 60 universities and more suppressed your immunity the more you will experience pain in academic institutions are including integrative medicine in the body. As a compensatory shift to the pain the body may turn conventional medical training. I am currently academically active and cortisol down to positively compensate an immune shift. We often retain a clinical appointment as an Adjunct Assistant Professor at the ignore the inflammatory response, but it is important that we University of Michigan and I am the National Clinical Chairperson for understand that the brain related shifts to stress may turn off cortisol the Consortium of Academic Health Centers for Integrative Medicine. levels. We are definitely seeing a growing recognition of integrative
medicine and this is quite exciting.
Any form of trauma such as emotional, physical,
surgery, major illness or infection can contribute to changes in your
endocrine and immune systems and this can result in your body losing
its ability to appropriately respond to stress. This does not necessarily
have to be a major injury, it may be as a the result of low-grade, but
persistent stressful events that eventually the body can't keep up with.
It is important that talk therapy is implemented to assist the individual,
but there must also be consideration of the physicality of the damage
to the brain and body. There are now some excellent herbs that can
APJ 3: How does stress effect hormone levels? APJ 6: You are an expert in nutrition, vitamins,
Dr Heyman: herbology and Chinese Medicine. In terms of minimising
the impact of stress what nutrients are the most proven
to support the body?
Dr Heyman:
APJ 7: Integrative medicine is a relatively new model of APJ 4: From the lens of the stress response, how does medicine that looks as not just disease, but also how to stress affect our immune system?improve the body's resistance to disease, are there any Dr Heyman:advances in it acceptance into mainstream medicine?
Dr Heyman:
APJ 5: You stated in your presentation that the immune Dr Andrew Heyman MD, MHSA (US) is Program Director of Integrative and the endocrine systems can become altered and and Metabolic Medicine at the George Washington University, USA. He damaged as a result of overwhelming stress, how do you holds qualifications in complementary and alternative medicine and
best define “overwhelming stress”?went on to receive his doctor of medicine and become the first
Dr Heyman: physician to complete an integrative medicine fellowship at the
University of Michigan. In addition to his formal training in family and
integrative medicine, Dr. Heyman's diverse clinical interests include: Functional Nutrition, Traditional Chinese Medicine, Medical
Acupuncture, Osteopathic Manipulative Medicine and Medical
Aesthetics. This broad range of therapies allows him to develop a
comprehensive treatment plan for both the acute and long-term health
goals of his patients.
APJ 88
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APJ 89
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APJ 90
The following is Part 2 of an article presented by Rita Massimo in
the spring issue of APJ. In Part 1 Rita
covered the history and role of skin-
analysing devices and their evolution
through today's technology. In this
article she discusses the assessment
of lesions and how the Dermascope
can assist a therapist or dermal
clinician to identify and determine
lesion abnormalities for safer
treatment outcomes.
light passes the stratum corneum and bounces off the structure to the
first filter, the angle of the light then diverts, which accounts for the
second filter to reflect the light and as a result reveals an image.
This form of dermoscopy is blind to the surface and only the deeper
structures are reflected, such as blood vessels in a highly vascular
melanoma, melanin inferior to the dermal junction and white
crystalline structures characteristic of dermatofibromas.
Both forms of dermascopes have a place in our clinics. When trained
in its use the dermascope can help us to recognise specific
morphological characteristics that may correlate with any nasty
lesion. As I stated earlier in Part 1 of this article, our role as skincare
professionals is not to establish a diagnosis on a potentially Modern dermatoscopes available have two light sources, Non-
concerning lesion, but to improve our skills of recognising when it is polarised and polarised light. Both reveal different images far beyond
warranted to refer a patient to a medical specialist before commencing the naked eye, and for this reason investing in a dermascope that
any treatment that may put the client at risk. switches between the two forms of light is recommended so no
structure is missed during the analysis. For the qualified dermal clinician who has been trained in the removal
of sub-cutaneous lesions such as skin tags, haemiangiomas and Non-polarised light(NPL), otherwise known as a standard-form
sebaceous keratosis warts, this device will not fail in helping and dermoscope, consists of a glass plate and a light source that travels
supporting the clinical evaluation. Generally, the clinical analysis beyond the stratum corneum (SC) with the addition of an ultrasound
gel/fluid placed on top of the lesion before viewing with the NPL
dermatoscope. This light form works by travelling beyond the stratum
corneum, and upon hitting a structure beneath it immediately bounces
back towards the surface, revealing to the naked eye an image with
specific morphological characteristics such as blood vessels and
pigment granules.
The benefits of NP dermoscopy is that you can see structures that sit
within the superficial layers of the skin, such as milia cysts, as well as
those that characterise sebaceous keratosis, comedo openings, the
blue-white veil covering specific to congenital nevus, or melanomas.
As with polarised dermoscopy these don't require a liquid/gel contact
as it works best with direct skin contact. In contrast, these devices
consist of two filters that reveal the final image. Once the standard
skinanalysis
Effective Diagnosis of Skin Lesions and the Role of the Dermascope – Part 2Effective Diagnosis of Skin Lesions and the Role of the Dermascope – Part 2 By Rita Massimo
APJ 91
with the naked eye may be obvious enough to confirm these lesions.
Melanin appears as different colours throughout the various levels of MD Natalia Jaimes and Ashfaq Marghoob along with 3Gen have the skin anatomy. Other colours can also be viewed via the helped design a chart for the dermascope user as a guide to evaluate dermascope image, which denotes a level of the skin the colour is the structures that can be seen. reflecting from.
This chart will guide the practitioner in recognising the type of lesion Indicates melanin in the superior layer of the epidermis or
according to the characteristics that can be seen toggling between the melanin throughout all layers of the epidermis to the stratum
non-polarised and polarised lights. The chart has been designed as a corneum.
two-step approach. The two-step algorithm based on an eight-level
criterion ladder is the foundation for dermoscopy evaluation of skin Indicates melanin within the epidermis and along the lesions.
epidermal junction; the darker the shade of brown the higher the
melanin concentration.The first step is intended to help the user differentiate melanocytic
lesions from the following non-melanocytic lesion, being Represents melanin in the melanophages or free melanin in dermatofibroma, basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma,
the upper dermis and papillary dermis. The grey shade is mainly upper seborrheic keratosis and haemangioma. papillary.
The second step is intended to help further split the melanocytic class
lesion into nevus, suspicious or melanoma categories, using the Free melanin that sits between the lower papillary and scoring system to assess the observed structures more clearly as being the upper reticular regions.melanoma specific structures or benign nevi patterns.
Represents melanin in the deep reticular dermis or inferior Once these have been identified a referral to a medical practitioner
papillary region.will allow for a further clinical diagnosis to determine whether to
perform a biopsy, maintain a visual monitoring of the lesion or advise When a squamous cell carcinoma shows a yellow colour it the therapist to continue with their proposed treatment plan as a lesion
is normally a characteristic feature of keratin in a keratinising tumour that is safe for the purpose of a skin treatment.lacking blood or melanin.
Over the surface of a raised and
palpable lesion, which is a whitish film
over an area of diffused blue pigment,
represents dermal melanin and
compact orthokeratosis.
Over a flat area. This
shade commonly appears on a
regressing lesion. The white represents
the scarring that occurred over the
lesion, and the blue is due to the
melanophage’s activity during the
regressing process.
Is obviously the colour of blood
vessels, however, in tumours it
represents increased vascularity due to
neo-vascularisation of cells during
tumour growth or bleeding within the
lesion. Obviously a concern.
Serous crusted ulcer,
shallow ulceration.The main focus of the training conducted in Montana was to cover in
detail the two-step algorithm. By the end of the training we became
familiar with the terminology that described the morphology standard Following are seven common structures that are highly likely to most users of dermoscopy. We were also taught the structures, associated with a melanocytic-class lesion. These are the relevant colours and distribution criteria for the lesions that correlated to the structures within the criteria that move the diagnosis from step 1 onto eight levels. The information presented was extensive and it is step 2. impossible to cover the extent or detail of the information that we
were taught within the scope of this article, however, we can start by
examining the principles of the many colours that can be seen on the The network of pigment occurs due to melanin that sits around the
skin.
COLOURS AND THEIR SIGNIFICANCE
BLACK:
BROWN:
GREY:
BLUE /GREY:
BLUE:
YELLOW:
BLUE-WHITE VEIL COVERING:
BLUE-WHITE or DISTINCTIVE
WHITE VEIL:
RED:
ORANGE:SCOPE OF TRAINING
THE SEVEN STRUCTURES OF MELANOCYTIC LESIONS
PIGMENT NETWORK
of the lesion. There are two types of
streaks, linear streaks and streaks with
pseudopods. The latter are linear
streaks with a bulb attached at the end
of the streak. Often the users get
confused as these structures don't
attach to the end bulb and hence there
is a gap. When the streaks are coming
from the centre and have a bulb
attached at the peripheral end it's
classified as a streak, if, however, a
space exists between the bulb and
streak it's called a globule. Sometimes
streaks and globules can be deceiving
when assessing both these features.
Streaks, like globules, simply
represent joining nests or clusters of
melanocytes at the EDJ, and it is
assumed that these melanocytes are
travelling along the rete ridges. These
are a significant structure to be aware
of as it signifies radial growth of the
lesion into the surrounding healthy
skin. Although steaks and globules
both represent radial growth they
represent different lesions, such as
characteristic common to melanoma,
reeds or spitz nevus. As an example, if
linear structures appear from the centre
of the lesion as an even distributed
starburst pattern presenting with
peripheral globules, it is highly likely
that as time progresses the globule may
begin to lighten and eventually
disappear, corresponding to a spitz
nevus.
Globules represent nests or clusters of
melanocytes. When there are between
3-5 or more aggregated oval globules
of various colours then the lesion falls
into step 2.
Brown is the most common colour
globule, black can be seen in Spitz
nevus or melanomas, red globules are a
bad s ign and represent neo-epidermal junction (EDJ). Think of an egg carton as resembling the angiogenesis occurring around a possible spreading tumour. EDJ. The valley where the egg sits is comparable to the elongated rete
ridge, and the top of the carton is comparable to the Supra papillary White globules represent dysplastic nevi with moderate atypical and plate. The pigment network exists as melanin granules that sit within balloon cells. When balloon cells are seen it is characteristic to the rete ridges and shows as the network line, and the empty spaces balloon cell nevus. between the network pattern is the papillary plate with no pigment
present. Blue globules represent congenital nevus and the veil can be seen
clearer with NPD.
This is an atypical appearance to the regular pigment network. It Blue nevus lesions have a distinctive even pigment colour to their appears as hypo-pigmented or white dominating network surrounding appearance because of the depth of dermal growth. Homogenous elongated linear and globular brown pigmented structures. Spitz nevus also has quite a depth to the lesion and hence the blue
white veil is also distinguishable. Network patterns that appear on the
facial area and nail beds, fingers, palms and soles have a different This feature of the lesion appears as hyper-pigmented linear melanin distribution due to the integumentary system.extensions branching out from the central area towards the periphery
GLOBULES
NEGATIVE NETWORKHOMEOGENOUS BLUE PIGMENT
STREAKS
APJ 92
PSEUDO-NETWORK PATTERN
PARALLEL PIGMENT PATTERN
(Acral)
COMMA VESSELS:
DOTTED VESSELS:
LEVEL 2: FEATURES COMMON TO BASAL CELL
CARCINOMASSERPENTINE VESSELS:
CORKSCREW VESSELS: LEAF-LIKE AREAS
POLYMORPHU/LOOSELY COILED VESSELS:
BLUE GREY OVOID NESTS:
MULTIPLE BLUE-GREY GLOBULES:
SPOKE-WHEEL-LIKE/CONCENTRIC STRUCTURES:
The pseudo network is a pattern
characteristic of polygonal lines,
resembling a reticular-type pattern of
slightly curved, straight, short or long,
fine lines. An annular pattern of non-
pigmented circles can also be seen as a
pattern for a lesion on the face. This
pattern is characteristic to tumours
such as solar lentigos, Clarke nevus,
Actinic keratosis and melanomas.
The parallel pattern resembles a
fingerprint image and is characteristic
of the acral regions such as the palms,
nail bed, fingers and soles of the feet. If
the pigment is distributed in the
furrows of the fingerprint image then it
is likely to be benign. For a melanoma
on these regions the pigment is usually
spread over the lesion because it sits
more over the ridge of the fingerprint
pattern. This is suspicion for an Acral
melanoma.
Although not directly associated in
Level 1 as a common melanocytic
structure, the morphology of some
vascular structures can still be
associated as characteristic features of
b o t h n o n - m e l a n o c y t i c a n d
melanocytic lesions. The following
vascular structures are vessels that
appear in various configuration with a
particular distribution pattern and are
identified as additional signs that
differentiate a lesion as a melanocytic
tumour.
are slightly vascular structures common to non-melanocytic tumours (level 7). curved vessels that are seen to be in the shape of a comma, commonly
associated under the nevus class of melanocytic tumours. The following points will once again briefly describe only some of the
structures that define these tumours into their types. are a predictive sign of a melanocytic tumour.
These red dots range from 0.01-0.02 mm in size.
appear as irregular linear pattern.
appear as vessels that are twisted like a : grey-bluish blobs that resemble a leaf like corkscrew pattern. pattern can vary in size. These consist of basal cell tumour islands
grouped closely. exist as linear with
loose loops and turns and lastly a shade of a milky-red covering over these appear as converging pigmented the entire lesion. ovoid areas, large and well defined.
If none of the melanocytic structures are recognised, then the these are similar to the above
approach is to observe structures relating to non-melanocytic lesions. structure, but much smaller in size. These also are composed of basal
This diagnosis is still approached in Step 1 of the algorithm. cell tumour islands.
Non-melanocytic lesions are defined as a dermatofibroma, Basal cell appear as carcinomas (level2), Squamous cell carcinomas (level3), sebaceous
well-defined radial linear projections coming from a central darker-keratosis (level4), haemangioma or angiokeratoma (level5), and
APJ 93
These
correspond to keratin-filled pockets
commonly seen in Seb Ks.
A structure observed in
Level 5 as red, maroon, blue, black
lagoons. Also seen as bulbous bodies
that histologically consist of vascular
haemangioma. If the lacunae body
appears black in any segment of the
tumour then it represents thrombosis,
such as in a thrombosed angioma.
When the tumour has a combination of
a black body with reddish shade then
it's likely to be an angio-keratoma.
These are only some of the main
common structures that differentiate a
non-melanocytic lesion. Vascular
structures in non-melanocytic lesions
are also significant to interpret,
however, differ to blood vessels in
melanocytic lesions. Analysing the
morphology, d is t r ibut ion and
arrangement of the blood vessels will
help to yield a diagnosis, along with
observing any additional structure will
assist in supporting the diagnosis that
determines one to the other.
These are
similar to branching vessels that we
know as telangiectasia. They are bright
red and vary between a fine capillary to
a larger diameter blood vessel
>0.2mm. They can be distributed
randomly within the lesion and are
commonly associated with basal cell
carcinoma.
These vessels
are shaped as a U. They are typically
predictive to seborrheic keratosis,
however, depending on distribution
and surrounding morphology it may brown area. They are brown to a grey/blue/brown mixed shade. These
suggest a keratinising tumour or melanoma.are actually a 100% predictive structure for Basal cell carcinomas.
They are a single structure and do not appear as aggregated clusters. Present as red dots identical to those associated Sometimes the spoke-wheel projections aren't individually defined,
with melanocytic tumours. Red dots in non-melanocytic tumours are however, you can still make out the central dark-brown core and a seen in Squamous cell carcinomas, porokeratosis, and occasionally light linear pattern. This variation is referred to as concentric are mistakenly assessed within an inflammed patch of psoriasis. As I structures or globules, but are actually the same thing. mentioned earlier, this is why it is still important to assess the
surrounding area of the lesion in question with the naked eye, as the
observation may suggest a different diagnosis.
Composed of tightly coiled blood These are best distinguished in non-polarised vessels and are commonly associated with Bowen's disease.
light. They are round whitish or yellowish structures. If they are
pigmented they can be mistaken for globules. Histologically they are These are similar to arborising vessels yet are
intra-epidermal keratin filled cysts. These structures are commonly thinner in diameter. Some are branched while others are non-
seen in seborrheic keratosis, but can also be seen in congenital nevi branching, nevertheless they radiate towards the centre, but never
and malignant melanoma.
COMEDO-LIKE OPENINGS:
LEVEL 5: HAEMANGIOMA-
RELATED LESIONS
LACUNAE:
ARBORISING VESSELS:
HAIRPIN VESSELS:
DOTTED VESSELS:
LEVEL 4: PREDICTIVE FEATURES FOR SEBORRHEIC
KERATOSIS
GLOMERULAR VESSELS:MILIA-LIKE CYSTS:
CROWN VESSELS:
APJ 94
cross the centre. The centre of the
lesion is generally consists of a
yellowish “popcorn” like globular
structure. This feature is commonly
a s s o c i a t e d w i t h S e b o r r h e i c
Hyperplasia.
T h e
morphology of this feature composes
dot ted or g lomerular vessels
distributed in a serpiginous pattern.
Most commonly associated with clear
cell acanthoma (CCA).
In a rare occurrence, if the lesion in
question is totally without structure,
that is there are no predictive structures
as discussed to differentiate the lesion
as non-melanocytic or melanocytic,
then the lesion is classed into level 8 as
an unclassifiable lesion. This criteria of
the chart guides the user to be on the
safe side and address it as a
melanocytic lesion. From this point
the doctor decides the immediate
course of action. More than likely the
doctor will treat it as suspicious and
biopsy the lesion to send it off to
pathology for a definite diagnosis, or if
confident enough decide to short-term
mole monitoring the tumour for any
changes, unless it is a raised lesion.
Pigment network, aggregated
globules, streaks, homogeneous blue
pigmentation and, in addition, the
network pattern on the facial region
termed as pseudo-network pattern and
on the volar regions is called a Parallel
pattern network. Keep in mind that the
presence of certain vessels also classes
the tumour as melanocytic.
experience required in order to learn all the skills in recognising these If any of the above melanocytic structures are recognised on the lesion structures. in question then the evaluation moves to step 2 where the tumour
needs to be further differentiated into a nevus, suspicious or If you would like to consider using a dermoscopy in your clinic and melanoma type. In order to reach this diagnosis the tumour in step furthering your skills in diagnostic accuracy, then I suggest you two is assessed further for melanoma-specific features, or if the investigate the many courses available that are run by professionals in features observed are in a benign nevi pattern (Attending training and the area.gaining experience with using the dermascopy is recommended to
understand the concept beyond this stage of the diagnosis). I recommend enquiring about courses run by The International
Dermoscopy Society or investing in a book titled Atlas of If no structures are recognised than the user continues the criteria for Dermoscopy edited by Marghoob, Malvehy and Braun. step 1 that differentiates a non-melanocytic lesion into a benign or
malignant tumour, which follows the pattern analysis between Level In addition, I also recommend you enquire about a dermoscopy device 2 and Level 6. that switches between non-polar lens (standard dermoscopy) and
polar lens and can take an image so that it can be referred on to a I hope you have found this basic information useful. Explaining all the medical practitioner as well as allow you to save a copy in the features and structures that relate to tumours within all eight levels of client/patient's history folder for any future reference.the chart is quite an in-depth amount of detailed information to write
about. As you can appreciate, there is so much knowledge and
S T R I N G O F P E A R L S :
IN SUMMARYIn summarising, the structures that
class a lesion as melanocytic are as
follow:
APJ 95
Woffles Lift is a procedure that can be performed under local anaesthetic
as no skin is actually excised.
8. Dr. Jose Juri, Buenos Aires – Founder and director of the Juri Clinic of
Plastic Surgery, he believes that cosmetic enhancement is an artistic
criteria and that the 'best surgeons are like concert performers' adapting
to the specific needs of the client.
9. Dr. Raj Kanodia, California – Is a specialist in rhinoplasty and believes
that the 'nose forms a constellation of character along with the eyes and
mouth'. He aims to refine rather than reshape the nose and, with over 27
years' experience, you shouldn't trust your nose with anyone else.
10. Dr. Ivo Pitanguy, Brazil – A pioneer in aesthetic and reconstructive
plastic surgery, the Ivo Pitanguy Clinic in Rio de Janeiro also specialises
in the wellbeing of both body and mind.More info: http://www.insignia.co/voice-of-luxury/insignia-top10/the-top-1o-plastic-surgeons/DR DES FERNANDES NAMED
AMONG THE WORLD'S TOP 10 PLASTIC SURGEONS
Margi Fox Distributors of Environ Skincare and Jane Iredale makeup are proud to announce that Dr Des Fernandes has been listed by the prestigious Insignia Magazine as among the World's Top 10 Plastic Surgeons for whom nips and tucks are nothing short of an art form. Dr Des Fernades is also renowned as the formulator of the innovative cosmeceutical skincare brand Environ. The top 10 winners included:
1. Dr. Olivier H. De Frahan, Paris and London – Specialises in plastic
and cosmetic surgery, including Botox, fillers and lipostructure.
Renowned for natural-looking techniques for eyelids and facelifts.
2. Dr. Sydney Coleman, New York – Is the inventor of lipostructure, a
miraculous fat-grafting technique designed to restore the youthful
bloom that so often goes AWOL with the onset of ageing.
3. Dr. Sherrell Aston, New York – Former president of the American
Society for Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, he is considered to be one of
the foremost international experts in the field and is particularly
renowned for his development of the FAME technique.
4. Dr. Michael Pfulg, Switzerland – Working from La Clinic in
Switzerland, Dr. Pfulg and his team are on hand to provide a full
range of innovative aesthetic medical treatments combining art and
science in every procedure.
5. Dr. Jorge Herrera, Buenos Aires – An expert reconstructive
surgeon, he assists patients of every age and background. From the
correction of birth defects to injuries incurred through accident
through reconstructive surgery.
6. Dr. Des Fernandes, Cape Town – One of the pioneers of the Suture
Suspension facelift technique, designed to minimise scarring and
restore dropped tissues back to their original place. Using discreet
nylon threads through tiny incisions, to lift and tighten all areas of
the face from brow to jaw-line.
7. Dr. Woffles Wu, Singapore – Is the inventor of the Woffles Lift.
Created to achieve facial rejuvenation with no downtime, the
APJ 96
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.
AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN
INTERNATIONAL AESTHETIC CALENDAR 2014Prepared by Terry Everitt
November 12-14 Cosmoprof ASIA Convention & Exhibition
Centre, Wanchai, Hong Kong T: +852-28276211 F: +852-3749 7345
E-mail: [email protected]
December 11-13 20th Annual World Congress on Anti-Aging
Medicine and Biomedical Technologies Venetian Resort Hotel
Casino, Las Vegas, Nevada T: + 1-561-997-0112
Email: [email protected]
The Global Beauty Group is thrilled to announce that they are now two-
time award winners Now their two-time award-winning device, bt-
accent LED has just been selected as LNE & Spa's 'Best Product 2014' in
the body equipment category. Previously it had also been named a
favourite in the renowned 2013-2014 Asia Grand Prix de la Beauté
awards. The simple, sleek and forward-thinking technology of the bt-
accent LED brilliantly delivers an array of skin corrective treatments
from acne to fine lines and wrinkles with just three powerful treatment
options red, blue and combination LED light. Combine portability, ease
of use and hands-free treatment and it's not hard to see why this breezy,
modern beauty solution is making its mark among aesthetics elite.
T h e G l o b a l B e a u t y G r o u p P h o n e 1 3 0 0 0 0 6 6 0 7
www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au
GLOBAL BEAUTY PICKS UP ANOTHER AWARD
GLOBAL BEAUTY PICKS UP ANOTHER AWARD
APJ 97
Australian Skin Clinics launches new innovation – the ASC
Aesthetics AcademyIdentifying a lack of adequately trained skin therapists in laser and IPL
as well as other anti-ageing procedures, the Australian Skin Clinics
decided to do something about it. In June 2014 they established their
own training facilities and launched the ASC Aesthetics Academy on
the Gold Coast.
The night continued with further celebrations, and dancing into the
late hours of the night.
“With our constantly growing franchised clinics we are in desperate
need of highly skilled staff,” stated Managing Director Deb
Farnworth-Wood.
“In fact, by the end of this year we need to position at least 100 skilled
therapists just in our Australian Skin Clinics. There is an amazing
opportunity for a wonderful career within our organisation for If you would like to contact the Australian Skin Clinics to discuss passionate, committed and well-trained therapists, however, they
have to meet with our stringent standards,” Deb stressed. franchising opportunities or training options with the ASC Aesthetics
A c a d e m y p l e a s e c o n t a c t 1 3 0 0 3 0 3 0 1 4 o r v i s i t The ASC Aesthetics Academy offers several training programs for www.ozskin.com/franchise or www.ozskin.comtherapists who wish to start a career in the exciting field of medical
aesthetics, or who would like to re-enter the workforce and need to
upgrade their skills.
ASC Aesthetics Academy offers state-of-the-art training facilities and
excellent training staff who will deliver the training and supervise
trainees until they reach the necessary standards to meet the growing
demand of the astute consumer who is seeking both excellent results
and exceptional service.
Celebrating the launch of the Academy, the Australian Skin Clinics
management was joined by clients, staff and friends over cocktail thdrinks on Thursday 11 September. In a heart-warming address Deb
thanked all in attendance and shared a little of her incredible journey in
establishing the Australian Skin Clinics into an amazing and
successful franchise model that it is today, while also acknowledging
the contribution of her faithful and committed staff.
APJ 98
USING AROMAS TO CREATE SALESWhen we step into a bakery and breathe the aroma of wonderful fresh bread, or the
delicious smell of cinnamon, butter or vanilla from fresh buns or pastries, our memory
banks are stimulated. Our mouth starts to water and we are drawn to purchase something,
if nothing else just to hold on to that wonderful memory of sheer pleasure. Or have you
ever walked into a florist shop and the smell of fresh-cut flowers took you back to a
childhood memory of a wonderful field in spring when life was less complicated and
blissfully carefree? Did this emotion made you reach out to buy some flowers to take home
just for the sheer pleasure of it? Neurologists link our sense of smell with the limbic
system, the centre of the brain where early, intense olfactory messages are stored and
linked with embedded memories. Real estate sales experts also have identified that on
walking into a home if there is a smell of freshly baked food this brings the potential buyer
into a positive mood and that house is not quickly forgotten when making a decision to buy.
This is why heating a drop or two of vanilla on your kitchen's hotplate can quickly
stimulate the emotions. In a salon environment adding aromatherapy to your treatment
menu and using essential oils to create ambience is once again recognised as a richly
rewarding way of attracting and keeping clients happy while improving a state of mind
towards purchases. Why not try adding this emotional appeal and monitor what happens?
EVIDENCE THAT EMOTIONAL STRESS MAY INFLUENCE CANCER RISKWhile mammograms are useful in determining the risk of
breast cancer, there are certain considerations that expert are
warning about. A false positive result occurs when a
mammogram suggests a woman has cancer when none
actually exists.
In the US, the risk of having a false-positive test
mammograms is a concerning 58 per cent to 77 per cent! When
a woman is told she may have breast cancer, it causes
considerable anxiety and psychological distress. Meanwhile, reported as positive, and 560, 333 mammogram screens were reported you will be subjected to more testing, such as biopsy or as normal (negative), and this is in WA alone.surgery, which carry their own set of risks, unnecessarily. However, even after taking these false-negatives into account, women Now, new research has found, however, that women who have with false-positive mammograms were still 27 per cent more likely to received a false-positive diagnosis via mammography may be more be diagnosed with breast cancer years later. As for what this means for likely to develop breast cancer years later, although no-one is quite women no-one really knows, but the researchers suggested their sure why.results favor some “biological susceptibility” as an explanation. Out of 58,000 Danish women who had had a mammogram, more than They suggested further research to determine the true excess risk of 4,700 were found to have false positives (the false-positive test rate in false positives, and future studies should definitely look into all of Denmark is about 16 per cent, much lower than it is in the US). About their related risks, like the increases in stress levels, unnecessary 1.5 per cent of those turned out to be false-negatives, meaning that the biopsy and perhaps additional mammograms, which all have the doctors missed the cancer the first time around. potential to impact breast-cancer risk.In Australia a total of 22,396 screening mammograms were falsely
look. Almost 37% of respondents reported these anxieties kicked in While traditionally we consider that Baby once they turned 30, while 10% were even anxious about appearing Boomers are the most older when still in their 20s.concerned with the
The research revealed that eight out of 10 women feel that being born need to look more
with good genes can have a major impact on keeping up youthful skin youthful, new studies appearance. Until the age of 45, 75% of those who participated in the r e v e a l a g r o w i n g survey who had good skin said they looked at least five years younger, number of younger
women are concerned and one in 10 said they looked and felt 10 years younger.with the appearance of Brands are now looking at formulating to cater also for the younger ageing. A recent study sector. Polls such as these are driving product innovations towards o f 2 0 0 0 w o m e n
formulation developments that offer cellular anti-ageing benefits for a between the ages of 30
wider age group than previously thought.and 60 conducted by Interestingly enough, a further survey indicated that men respond to a Lancome revealed that different approach. They prefer products that protect their skin from a woman as young as 45 is the new marker.the sun rather than “removing wrinkles”. In fact the term anti-ageing The study confirmed that 50% of the women stated they have for men's formulas was considered a turn-off.inhibitions about their ageing and have concerns about how old they
NEW RESEARCH DATA ON THE ANTI-AGEING PHENOMENON
APJ 99
of EF Chemical Consulting, a company that
specialises in cosmetic safety, confirmed
that parabens are absolutely safe. In his
opinion as a result of all the potential risks
there has been exhaustive research, which
has covered all angles without any evidence
of risks.
Following a study in 2004 that first ignited
the concerns by suggesting that parabens
can mimic oestrogen and thus cause
hormone disruptions, no evidence for any
link between parabens and health concerns
has been found.
As consumers continue to gravitate away
f r o m p r o d u c t s w i t h p a r a b e n s ,
manufacturers and packaging will be
affected by this trend. As a result beauty
brands such as Lush have just launched a
range of self-preserving systems for
products across their ranges. They
confirmed that they have found a way to
keep the amount of “free water”, which is the water that's left over PARABEN-FREE CLAIMS once the chemical reaction have taken place, to a minimum, meaning
that even their moisturisers can become entirely self-preserving.CONTINUE TO CHARM Meanwhile, Neopac, a packaging manufacturer, is set to launch its
new AirShield technology, which the company states “is particularly CONSUMERS suited to oxygen sensitive contents for beauty products and natural
cosmetics”. In that way cosmetics will be able to retain their Whatever your personal position may be towards preservatives, and in consistency and colour just as the cosmetic manufacturers intended particular parabens, research continues to conclude that paraben them, even after the packaging has been opened and in daily use.preservatives used widely in cosmetics do not pose any harm to human
health. However, consumers still gravitate more towards “paraben-REF: free” claims, and so we will see more and more brands will choose to http://www.cosmeticsbusiness.com/news/article_page/Neopac_AirSuse alternative options.hield_the_safe_solution_for_sensitive_beauty_products/98227 It is worth noting that many researchers continue to state that the
whole issue of parabens has been misinterpreted. Dr Edmund Fowler
participants assumed men would like the models with more makeup STUDY REVEALS CONCEPTS OF on than the women would, but that turned out to be untrue. Men and
women both preferred images of models wearing 40% less makeup ATTRACTIVENESS MIGHT BE than they initially put on. The research concluded that women are
putting on makeup for a perceived standard of beauty that may not MISUNDERSTOOD actually exist. Taken together these results suggest that women are
likely wearing cosmetics to appeal to a mistaken preference of others.A new study published in the Journal of Experimental Psychology According to Dr Alex Jones of the School of Psychology at the Wales-examined the role of makeup in perceived attractiveness. based Bangor University, the take-home message from this study is The research gave 44 women different types of foundation, lipstick, that our ideas about what the opposite sex find attractive are often blush and mascara and then told them to put the makeup on as they inaccurate, whether it relates to body size, weight or even something would for going on a night out.like makeup use.The women were then photographed before and after, with the
researchers then altering
the photographs so they
had a range of 21 images
of the women wearing
various amounts of
makeup. The photos
were then shown to 44
university students both
men and women who
were told to pick the
photo that they thought
the most attractive.
I n t e r e s t i n g l y, t h e
women liked images of
the models wearing a bit
more makeup than the
men did. All the
The art of Cosmetic Tattooing is far-reaching – it goes beyond
improving features to improving self-esteem, particularly in the
case of changes to the body due to illness.
Christine Comans is a qualified cosmetic tattooist based in Perth
who specialises in medical cosmetic tattooing. Christine is
passionate about helping ease the trauma of changes or
deformities as a result of illness and restoring self-esteem to
men and woman who have been plagued with illnesses that have
left them with hair loss or scarring. In this article she shares
information on multitrepannic Collagen Actuation that can
improve scarring and key considerations when reviewing
client/patient suitability for cosmetic tattooing.
underwent plastic surgery to
correct that feature were more
positive about their outcome a
year after surgery than those
who were unhappy with a
particular physical feature and
chose not to undergo plastic
surgery. The results of this study revealed that those who underwent
plastic surgery generally had positive psychological effects across all
areas, including producing increased feelings of quality of life, life
satisfaction, attractiveness, self-esteem, and wellbeing.
The study concluded that for people who are dissatisfied with a
particular facial feature and are considering plastic surgery to improve
that feature, those who undergo plastic surgery appear to benefit
psychologically more than those who do not undergo plastic surgery.
When it comes to the topic of cosmetic procedures, controversy
strikes. Many people believe that patients who undergo cosmetic
procedures are putting themselves at risk, all in the name of beauty.
While that is true, there are always various risks and side-effects with
different procedures. Researchers have found that these cosmetic
procedures can provide numerous positive psychological effects.
In March 2013, European scientists published an article in Clinical
Psychological Science, a journal for the Association for Psychological
Science, regarding the psychological effects of plastic surgery. The
study compared a group of 544 people who had plastic surgery with a
group of 264 who were interested in plastic surgery, but had not
undergone any procedure.
The study followed these people for one year post surgery and found
that those who were unhappy with a particular physical feature and
cosmetictattoo
APJ 100
Improving Self-Esteem and the
By Christine Comans
MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOOIST
Medical Tattooing
APJ 101
SELF-ESTEEM AND COSMETIC TATTOOING
INTERESTING BACKGROUND INFORMATION ABOUT
MULTITREPANNIC COLLAGEN ACTUATION
WHAT IS MCA?
In this article I would like to discuss my experience as a cosmetic
tattooists with a few of my own patients that have shared their
emotional journey with me, and bring attention to a person's
disposition to determine if they are the right person to have cosmetic
tattooing.
A recent alopecia patient described to me how being given back the
eyebrows she lost transformed her life. She admits she was a recluse
for years after developing the condition and felt self-conscious, and
pencilling in new brows was no substitute for the real thing. This
patient felt increasingly embarrassed and uncomfortable talking to
people face to face.
After her procedure she said her friends and family couldn't believe
they were tattooed because it looked so realistic. “It's something we
take for granted until you don't have them,” I was told.
often be repigmented to better match the surrounding skin tones. In “I was so paranoid because when I drew them on I always ended up Cosmetic Tattooing it involves using very fine needles, but without rubbing them off as one was always higher, longer or thicker. It took implanting a product into the flesh. By causing trauma to the scar me so long in the mornings to pencil them in,” she said, “and it was too tissue, the raised skin is flattened and feels softer.hard to draw it right. My new brows make me feel wonderful.”
Performed correctly, MCA can even plump lip tissue and alleviate Many women have a secret tattoo and it's hidden beneath their clothes. small unsightly wrinkles around the lip area. MCA is a great It may be discreet, but the nipple areola cosmetic tattoo on my patients' alternative to injectable fillers such as collagen injections and muscle right breast changed her life. After being diagnosed with breast cancer, relaxants such as Botox. The results of MCA are much longer-lasting the nurse and mother of three underwent a unilateral mastectomy and and therefore more affordable. However, MCA is a specialised endured long, painful surgery through reconstruction. The nipple technique that requires correct training to achieve the best results.areola tattoo was the missing piece of the puzzle that helped her regain
her confidence. Before she had the tattoo there was a constant Cosmetic Tattooists use the MCA technique to stimulate the skin's reminder that something had changed. Losing a breast makes you feel natural collagen, allowing the tissue to repair itself. After the scar you have lost a part of yourself. Now when she looks in the mirror she tissue has been flattened the medical tattooist often camouflages the sees matching nipples and areolas and no longer notices the scars. “I area by implanting flesh-coloured pigments that perfectly match the feel like me again,” she said delightedly. patient's skin tone.
Advances in technology mean cosmetic tattoos can be quite realistic. Cosmetic tattooists who specialise in tattooing hair to cover baldness Digital machines have helped to refine the quality of the tattoo. One of (hair simulation) can even create facial stubble for male alopecia the most cutting-edge techniques is to create "3D" nipples for women patients. who have not had a full reconstruction. The illusion is created with
shading and highlighting, allowing the patient to avoid any more The emotional impact of providing a Cosmetic Tattooing procedure painful surgery. can be a double-edged sword. Getting it right can be very rewarding
and even life-changing for the client, however, sometimes even if you Medical tattooing is vital for patient recovery. It is not just a cosmetic get it right the client may not be happy with the procedure based on procedure, it is the icing on the cake, the final cherry on top that they their psychological disposition. need to make them feel whole again. This is such an important
procedure for cancer patients as it enables them to gain the
psychological boost they need that will allow them to move on with
their life after going through that horrendous journey.
Before we look at further information on how to determine the ideal
Cosmetic Tattooing skills are now being recognised by health client for cosmetic tattooing, l would like to share with you a little
professionals. Often referring patients that suffer burns, cleft lips and about the interesting background history of MCA.
surgical scars, these can be subtly disguised or corrected by carefully
needling matching flesh-coloured pigment into the affected area. But The first written works on MCA advocating the benefits of this
there is more to the treatment than just covering unsightly skin technique was Dr André Camirand, a surgeon from Montréal
conditions – medical tattoos are also helping to heal deeper (Québec) in Canada. Driven by the constant need to reach perfection,
psychological wounds. he developed and refined several avant-garde techniques, one of them
being the technique he called multitrepannic. He made his
observations in the late ‘80s and published them in 1992. Dr Camirand
discovered that scars of some clients that he had tattooed with pigment For scar victims, improving the appearance of their skin may not even
were in fact repigmenting naturally. require the use of pigment. A technique is called MCA.
(Multitrepannic Collagen Actuation), otherwise known as dry-skin Meanwhile, Dr Des Fernandes, the South African plastic surgeon and
needling. This is a non-surgical and entirely natural way of getting the inventor of Environ, read this article and also experienced that
body's own cells to regenerate and minimise both scars as well as abraded scars would plump up with this technique. This led to the
wrinkles. This process can be used to relax constricted scars, plump development of the first derma-roller, which Dr Fernandes introduced
the "valley" of wrinkles (causing them to fill in), and "white scars" can to the aesthetics industry.
Alopecia
In the US Dr Kristan Matzek, who is a leading micropigmentation
specialist and who is also the Vice-President of the American
Academy of Micropigmentation, also discovered that using dry-
needle technique to scars and wrinkles would give favourable
results to minimise these and other problems. Today, it is possible
for highly skilled and experienced practitioners to erase up to 10
years from the ageing face of men and women using this technique
without the use of injectables.
often require multiple procedures to be satisfied with the outcome.
Screening and understanding our client's or patient's disposition before a Just because a client wants to have Cosmetic Tattooing doesn't procedure is very important in achieving positive patient outcomes.mean they are an ideal candidate for this type of procedure.
Assessing your clients' disposition is important before you proceed
with any form of cosmetic tattooing. Conducting a thorough
consultation for cosmetic tattooing is extremely important.
Is or does the client present as highly stressed?
Do they appear to be indecisive?
Are they extremely sensitive to pain?
Do they have unrealistic expectations even when the procedural Christine Comans will also be conducting a training program in outcome is explained to them? medical cosmetic tattooing as part of the APAN Conference
st. Program in May 31 Medical Cosmetic Tattoo Training will be Generally if a client exhibits these characteristics they are most stconducted for a full day on 1 June 2015 in Brisbane. If you are likely not a suitable candidate for cosmetic tattooing, but if you
interested in further information please phone 07 5593 0360.decided to proceed to tattooing a client that presents with one or all
of these dispositions you may just want to allow more time for this
client pre and post-procedure, and be aware that this client will most
DETERMINING CLIENT/PATIENT SUITABILITY FOR
COSMETIC TATTTOOING
If you are a cosmetic tattooist APAN now have a membership
classification for you, visit www.apanetwork.com. If you are a
practising cosmetic tattooist, you can join as a Gold Member
(Cosmetic Tattoo). You will receive the same benefits as an APAN Among a multitude of other things it allows to screen for the Gold Member, with special support and training opportunities in following: Cosmetic Tattooing.
MEDICAL COSMETIC TATTOO TRAINING
APJ 102
Scan to see APAN’s complete range of cards for you to order.
APAN have designed a collection of some 14 cards and gift vouchers
that are niche, personalised and high-quality. Themed Gift Vouchers
include Mother's Day, Just for Him for Father's Day, Christmas Day,
Valentine's Day and a generic one that just says With Love. They are
attractive and enticing. We also have postcards for you to wish your
clients a Happy Birthday, Thank You for new clients and we also have
two cards for clients you have not seen for some time. Visit
www.apanetwork.com to see the full collection. Purchase 50 for just
$40 or 100 for $70 and we will send them to you free of postage and
handling. Phone 07 5593 0360 to place your order.
THE PERSONAL APPROACH IN MARKETING – POSTCARDS
BUSINESS NEWSBUSINESS NEWSBusiness & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes
Moroko says. "Ask them what they would like you to
do to fix the problem. They may have suggestions on
how to improve customer service.”
Lust – don't get over-ambitious: Lust for the
latest mod cons in the business world is a trap many
fall into. Elephant Property owner Kirsty Dunphey
says it's a sure-fire way to kill off cash reserves and
with it, the future of the business. "I've seen so many
small businesses go under because they were
insistent they had to have the $10,000 photocopier to
start, or the huge shiny office space, or the
important–looking cars," she says. "I'm a big
believer in bootstrapping at the beginning and
keeping an eye on costs all the time. It should be an
ongoing process regardless of the size of your company.”THE SEVEN DEADLY SINS OF
Envy – stay focused Green-eyed business owners who are envious of SMALL BUSINESStheir competition can easily sacrifice their own goals. No matter how
successful the competition appears Moroko says business leaders should Sins – every business owner is guilty of them now and again. But march to the beat of their own drum. "When you let envy of another which deadly sins could bring your business down? If there was a business set your strategy instead of setting your own goals, you lose small business bible, these would surely be the seven deadly sins to focus," she says.avoid.
"You're keeping too close an eye on the competition and losing track of Gluttony – Unrealistic wages: Dr Lara Moroko, a lecturer at
where you're going. And when that happens your resources are stretched the Macquarie Graduate School of Management, says business
too far and it's just a disaster."owners who take too much cash out of their business risk losing
everything. "Taking too much salary out of the business is like Sloth – don't avoid the upkeep of your responsibilities:
sucking the air out of the business," she says. "So many people don't This is perhaps the most common deadly sin of them all. Slothful budget and haven't got enough money to live off. Problem is, the business owners who fail to perform the difficult, yet important, tasks business needs cash to keep going."such as keeping their financial records up to date, face going under.
Nicole Jones, owner of marketing solutions business Market Me Pride – I'm better than anyone else: Those with an over- Marketing, says a basic but often ignored responsibility is keeping in inflated sense of skill may consider themselves above the business contact with clients through building an email database. "The rise of planning tasks that are essential to business growth and survival. social media took the focus off email marketing as a way of But such pride is a curse. Xero Australia managing director Chris communicating with potential customers and a way to keep people Ridd recommends developing a clear vision to steer a business in informed," she says. the right direction. "It's crucial for business owners to set goals,
because otherwise they'll just get caught up in the day-to-day Greed – taking your clients for granted: Greed can destroy
running of their business instead of taking control and driving small and big, new and old companies alike. It all starts to unravel when
growth," he says.greed dictates pricing and customer service, Moroko says. "Greed is
thinking you can charge or do what you want to loyal customers, Wrath – don't take it personally: Controlling your temper thinking they'll never leave you," she says. "The truth is there is always when it comes to irate and irrational clients is a difficult task for going to be another business out there who is hungrier than you, ready to even the most patient business owners. Before you commit this snatch your customers away.”deadly sin, remember that it takes years to cultivate a good
reputation and just one unsatisfied customer to ruin it. "Instead of
losing it and being snappy with complaining clients, hear them out,"
APJ 103
C o m m i s s i o n PENALTY RATES DEBATE recommendations
would delay action HEATS UP WITH ARA CALLING needed to combat
FOR ACTION ON WEEKENDS youth unemployment
numbers.AND PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
It is not good enough The Australian Retailers Association (ARA) has for the Government thrown its voice behind calls for immediate action
to look at penalty rates via a productivity inquiry later in the year, and to reduce penalty rates in the face of high youth unemployment then take their recommendations to the next election.figures.
ARA executive director Russell Zimmerman said reducing penalty The debate was reignited recently by Liberal backbencher Alex rates is a crucial step in creating higher levels of employment for Hawke, who called for weekend and public holiday penalty rates to be Australians.reduced, as reported by the ABC.
“There's no denying the fact that small businesses would employ more Prime Minister Tony Abbott has previously ruled out lowering or staff if they did not have to pay penalty rates. SME retailers in regional abolishing weekend penalty rates during his first term and has areas in particular, who do not currently open on Sundays, would promised to set up a Productivity Commission inquiry into industrial definitely consider their options if penalties were reduced.relations. As it currently stands, any recommendations the
Government supports from the inquiry will be taken to the next “Seeking to be the voice of reason, the ARA is not calling for penalty election. However business groups are calling for changes now. Last rates to be abolished but there is a strong need to get the balance right month the Australian Chamber of Commerce and Industry's (ACCI) so that retailers can operate competitively on weekends and offer praised Hawke's comments and said waiting for the Productivity increased employment opportunities,” Mr Zimmerman said.
comes to employee happiness. It THIS SHOULD KEEP doesn't have to be hard to make
your employees feel appreciated. YOU AWAKE AT NIGHT "It can be as simple as saying
Sarah Findlay says it is important clients fit thank you," says Mr. Buchanan
the culture of the business. If you run your who also heads Recognise Every
own business, you're probably no stranger to Day (RED), an employee
the occasional sleepless night. But will the recognition program to help other
problems you're stressing over really have an compan ies improve s t a ff
impact on your future success? You need to retention. "If you have a formal
talk to real people experts such as your program, you need to recognise
industry body or association, not just friends your employees with something
who politely tell you your idea is great. These that's meaningful to them,
are the five questions that should be keeping you awake at night, whether that's a handbag, or a handwritten card. Experts say the one
according to experts and business owners. size fits all approach doesn’t work.
1. Do I know what my clients really want? 4. Who is going to do all the work?Knowing what your clients want is not the same as offering them what Business owners worry about how they are going to wear every hat in
you have. You need to do some legwork at the beginning and show their business, Australian Businesswomen's Network CEO Suzi
people your idea and get feedback. If you get the concept wrong and Dafnis says. This is especially true for small business owners who
you don't hit the genuine needs of the market, you won't be able to don't have the resources to bring on staff right away. "The key is to do
grow your business. Before launching a new idea speak to experts and what you are best at and leverage as quickly as possible, the roles
pass it by them. They will guide you in making sure you have asked which do not produce income," she says. Your job is to plan and grow
the right questions that will make your innovation relevant to your the business, to provide leadership and head up systems, not to be
current and future clients. involved in every little detail. “Start by outsourcing small jobs and
gradually increase from there," she says.
2. What's my business model?5. How do I attract the right clients?The type of business model you choose could make or break your
business, particularly in that crucial first year. Especially if you are You need a good filtering system when it comes to taking on clients,
going to introduce packages, make sure you have payment-plan particularly if you are in an industry where long-term contracts are the
policies and place. It is also a good idea to look at companies who are norm. If you don't set expectations upfront, you could end up with
skilled in these services and can take pressure off you. These high-maintenance or difficult clients who are a drain on your time and
companies, however, need to be carefully screened. APAN specialise energy, Dawn til Dusk Publicity director Sarah Findlay says.
in screening for such companies. They can help make this work for Behaviours such as consistently making unreasonable demands or not
you. paying bills on time fall under the “high-maintenance” umbrella.
“People always talk about how important it is that your employees fit
the culture of your business, but it's also true of your clients,” Findlay 3. How do I hold on to my employees?says. What if you do get a client who is not a good fit? Fire them nicely, Salaries and bonuses are important, but if your employees don't feel she says. “Plant a seed in their mind that you're not the right person to appreciated and recognised, the chances are they'll move on. Experts help and let them decide for themselves, she says. “This way the advise that factors such as professional development, recognition and relationship can come to end without any hard feelings.”a flexible work environment are just as important as money when it
APJ 104
professional who can empathise with their concerns INDUSTRY SEEKS are very much preferred. Recently several clinics
across Australia have reached out to APAN asking M A T U R E - A G E D for advice on how to establish an incentive plan to
recruit the mature-aged therapist.THERAPISTS
“We want to encourage mothers who now have It does not take too much research to teenage children and are looking to re-enter the surmise that older female workers who workforce to take the step toward seeking positions, are over 45 according to demographics as they are out there,” Tina Viney, CEO of APAN, are not exactly high on recruiters' hit said. They will, however, need to update their skills lists. The reasons are well-documented; and there are numerous options in doing so either apart from age-old prejudices, many through a college nearby who offer post-graduate have had children and been out of the courses or through an industry leader like Gay workforce for extended periods. An
Wardle. unbroken career path counts in recruiters' eyes.
However, for the aesthetics and the cosmetic medical industry this is If you are interested in re-entering the workforce APAN would all changing. Anti-ageing treatments are attracting the more mature- love to hear from you and guide you in the right direction. Ph: 07 aged client or patient, treatments delivered by a more mature
5593 0360.
BECOME A VALUE CREATORManagers who adopt a mindset to create value hold the key
to becoming truly successful leaders, say Brian J Hall of
Harvard Business School.
Hall recalls an experience he had when he called on longtime
professor James Cash for a favour. Hall wanted to study the inner
workings of General Electric, and he needed Cash's help to get in
touch with top-level executives who could provide insights for his
research. Later, Hall asked how he could pay back the favour. Cash put
his arm around his colleague's shoulder and said, "You don't owe me
anything, Brian. This is the way we do things here. Just pay it
forward."
"I will never forget that," says Hall, now the Albert H. Gordon empower the team to be successful. You can do that by asking Professor of Business Administration. "That had such a huge your staff to share with the others their weekly highlights of influence on me." It's an example of what Hall calls "value-creating something positive that has happened to them through client behavior” doing a favour for the good of the business without feedback and results they have achieved.expecting anything in return. Hall argues that managers who adopt a
value-creating mindset hold the key to becoming truly successful Managers should actively choose to be a value creator, someone leaders. who always looks for the win-win outcome, leaving enough room
for both sides to benefit from a deal without feeling the need to "Business is a team effort. Nobody plays by themselves and wins in swipe every last cent in just their favour. They need to look at how business," Hall said during a seminar on value creation versus "value they can give back, ensuring they strengthen staff confidence, claiming". “You will never succeed until you become a good team morale and identify how staff performance is blossoming and player, somebody who thinks about other people and checks their offer praise for that. Sometimes you may have to give up motivations at the door." something you want, but if you make it your goal to be a value
creator, then it becomes an instinct, it becomes the lens you have
on things, and it becomes easier. If you focus on how everyone can Here are examples of this principle and the benefits you can benefit that is the way to win.expect:The purpose of business is simple and well-defined, Hall says: It's As a value creator work cooperatively with others to make the to make the world a better place, to create value. After all, corporate pie bigger for all, whereas value claimers focus on businesses that make their purpose just about profit often do taking more of the pie for themselveslike a thief steals for personal poorly because both their clients and their employees sense this gain. The business world is filled with value claimers, and this all-quest for the almighty dollar, which makes them feel as if they are for-me attitude becomes apparent in a variety of ways.being squeezed rather than served.For example, at a brand presentation to staff some managers focus It is hard to wake up in the morning and not be excited about only on their own needs without considering the requirements of shared values and benefits for you as well as for your work how the staff can also benefit from the plan that will move environment and the business you are working for. everyone forward.Engage your staff in creative ideas will make them feel valued and Then you have workers who hoard information like gold, important. How do we produce this at better costs, or how do we believing that guarding certain treatment know-how gives them make this more valuable for our clients? The profits follow from more power and so they keep information confidential. Encourage such interactions.staff to share their knowledge and experiences so that they can
APJ 105
THE CHANGING
PURPOSE OF THE
BUSINESS PLAN – DO
YOU REALLY NEED IT?
Many just sit in a drawer collecting
dust, and some business owners say
they are a waste of time.
Eve and Alex John's business has grown very
quickly. In the past 12 months their product,
Bent Over Silicone Nozzels, has gone from
being sold in 15 hardware stores in Victoria to
being distributed in 22 separate countries.
skill is not in writing pages of detail, but in developing the ability to Not only did they achieve this without a business plan, Eve John says get the real story across succinctly,” he says. “A one-page outline of not having a business plan was a key factor in the rapid growth. the business vision, values, objectives and how you will use your
competitive advantage to achieve them will ensure you have the best “A business plan would have slowed us down,” she says. “It just tool to communicate the business plan.”seemed a little bit too rigid.” Most business advisers and business
coaches recommend drawing up a business plan, but many SME James Eling, the owner of Marketing4Restaurants, says business owners opt to go without. planning brings clarity to his business. He draws up a five-year, one-
year and 90-days goals for his company, which then reveal the missing Put simply, a business plan is a formal statement of goals for a pieces in his strategy that are needed to meet those goals. “It raises a business, the reasons they are believed attainable, and the steps for whole heap of questions and those questions form part of your short-reaching those goals. Financial forecasts are usually included, as is term goals,” he says.background information about the organisation or team attempting to
reach those goals and the market they operate in. In his business plan, Eling also includes analysis of his industry, the
customers and competitors. That work revealed, for instance, that Proponents say a plan can help business owners focus their energy and distribution channels was the biggest hurdle the business faced, keep their company on track. But Eve John said that sticking to a allowing him to focus more effort there.business plan would have blinded them to opportunities, such as when
the chance to have their nozzles for applying silicone and other Eling says he also knows the costs of not having a business plan. plumbing sealants sold overseas arose, in a different way to that which Extreme Networks, an IT business founded by he and his wife was they'd been expecting. named a BRW Fast 100 company in 2004 and doubled its revenue in
2007, but soon after gave up on business plans. “At that point we “It just didn't seem right to limit ourselves, and we basically didn't thought we were really good at running an IT company and we just lost know what we were doing so it just ended up that we never initially focus and were going backwards,” James says. “Probably our biggest wrote up a plan,” she said, adding that she and her husband set goals regret in the 15 years that the company's been running was those five for the business nonetheless. years that were completely wasted.”
John, who used to teach business skills at TAFE, has seen a lot of Jacob Aldridge is an international Shirlaws business coach, and has people limit themselves to their business plan. “They limit themselves one simple piece of advice about business plans. “The greatest and if a new opportunity comes in they say 'oh, no, I've got to limit business plan, kept in the bottom drawer, is useless in business,” he myself to my business plan',” he says. says. “Bullet points on the back of a beer coaster, which are
implemented, can be worth millions.”However, Andrew Graham, national head of business solutions RSM
Bird Cameron, says that for new businesses, the analysis in of the What your business plan should include:
target market, their competitors and their customers is a valuable Business plans don't have to be long, but most experts say they should
exercise, but many fail to do this. “Implications of this approach for contain at least the following information:
longer term growth include capital being more difficult to obtain due A description of your businessto a lack of a well-documented plan for the lender and missing Your business goalsbreakthrough strategies if the time is not invested in examining the An analysis of your target customersmarket thoroughly and searching for real differentiation,” Graham An analysis of your competitorssays.Your strategy
Your business' financial statements and projections. “While dedicating time and energy to a business plan can be tedious
and challenging, the effort is well spent. Business owners should be In a rapidly changing world the key is to be more flexible to prepared to review, change and adjust the business plan to ensure the accommodated opportunities that may arise that are a perfect fit, but business goals continue to be attainable.” Business plans also don't were not part of the original plan.need to be many pages long to be effective, says Graham. “The real
APJ 106
scientificreport
hidden factors that are also contributing to Obesity rates in Australia are climbing faster
this epidemic. than anywhere else in the world, according to
a new study. The results of the global study
At the recent A5M Medical and Aesthetic into obesity rates, published in the medical
The Lancet, Conference the issue of Metabolic Syndrome journal show almost a quarter of
and what current studies are saying about this the country's children and 63 per cent of the
were also presented. One of the experts to adult population is overweight.
address this topic was Dr James LaValle.
According to the Australian Institute of
Dr LaValle is an internationally recognised Health and Welfare, three in five Australians
clinical pharmacist, author and certified are overweight or obese, which translates to
clinical nutritionist, naturopathic doctorate, 12 million people. Unmonitored weight gain
founder of LaValle Metabolic Institute, an can lead to impaired glucose tolerance that
interdisciplinary medicine facility in can lead to Type 2 diabetes and heart disease.
Cincinnati in the US where he has served
thousands of patients using his metabolic Australia's obesity levels are now on par with
model for health. We interviewed Dr the United States, but slightly less than New
LaValle to share with us some of his Zealand. The study has prompted health
knowledge for the benefit of our industry.experts to call on the Federal Government to
commit to a national anti-obesity strategy.
Obesity Policy Coalition spokeswoman Jane Martin says obesity is an
issue that governments can tackle in a number of ways. The
government is also appealing to healthcare professionals and
personal services professionals to establish strategies to support and There are many reasons why people gain weight that are assist individuals with their weight management. well known, but what is coming to light is the specific role that certain
micro-nutrients play in weight gain, and if these are depleted they In the aesthetics industry there is a huge growth in the demand for the contribute to making weight management and weight loss very treatment of cellulite and weight-loss. The percentage of ultrasonic difficult. These nutrients include magnesium, chromium, zinc and cavitation devices has doubled in the past five years as salons and vitamin D, which are all critical in supporting the body in this area. clinics attempt to assist the public to better manage this problem. When these are insufficient in our diet they can contribute to However, while these services are beneficial, to gain permanent metabolic syndrome. We now also have a better understanding of the benefit “we need more irons in the fire”, experts stress. While diet and enormous role that stress plays in weight gain and obesity. We are exercise are important to any weightloss strategy there are other finding that as our stress responses become less efficient in regulating
APJ 1: Dr LaValle, in your opinion
what are the key factors that contribute to weight gain
and metabolic syndrome?
Dr LaValle:
AUSTRALIAN OBESITY RATES CLIMBING FASTER THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD, STUDY SHOWS
AUSTRALIAN OBESITY RATES CLIMBING FASTER THAN ANYWHERE ELSE IN THE WORLD, STUDY SHOWS
APJ 107
our energy levels they can contribute to alterations in our hormonal
architecture.
Additionally, environmental toxins, organic pollutants, pesticides and
viral compound can all lead to insulin resistance. Chronic stress can
also disrupt thyroid and glucose metabolism. We often don't realise
that being constantly bombarded with on-going stress, even if it
simple everyday pressures like rushing to finished tasks, answering
emails, meeting deadlines, running to fit everything in and completing
tasks in our daily lives without appropriate breaks, can contribute to
poor sleep patterns, hyperactivity and an inability to switch off and
rest. Stress also leads to poor absorption of our nutrients and can
contribute to a leaky gut. As a result, less-efficient nutrient absorption
can contribute to chronic immunological suppression and this can lead
to a tendency towards inflammation. Unless this inflammation is
addressed you will not be able to lose weight.
Two important chemicals in the brain that also play a role in our
predisposition to food and eating are dopamine and serotonin, and
their activity can be influenced by chemical changes in the body, due
to stress or nutrient deficiencies. Both are a type of chemical known
as a neurotransmitter. If you are asking what is the function of
serotonin or dopamine, it depends on where in the brain they are being
released.
Dopamine is quite often tagged as the “reward” chemical, because it is
released in the “reward pathway”. It is not a coincidence that
recreational drugs also bind to the same receptor sites as dopamine!
When we are predisposed to dopamine we often crave things like
chocolate that we must have without knowing why.
The insulin resistance syndrome can result in The release of serotonin is thought to be often involved in appetite atherosclerosis (hardening of the arteries) and an increased risk of craving patterns and mood. The widely used anti-depressant Prozac, is blood clots.a serotonin re-uptake inhibitor. When you take this drug it slows down
the rate that serotonin is re-absorbed after being released into the A major factor in the development of insulin resistance
syndrome is obesity – especially belly fat and abdominal obesity. synapse. This means there is more serotonin floating around in the
Obesity promotes insulin resistance and negatively impacts synapse, and so it is more likely to bind to, and affect, the neurons
insulin responsiveness in a person. Weight loss can improve the involved in making us feel depressed.
body's ability to recognise and use insulin appropriately.
These imbalances can lead to insulin resistance and metabolic Protein in the urine is a sign that kidney damage syndrome. To help you understand how insulin resistance comes has occurred, although not everyone uses this component to about, consider the following. Normally, food is absorbed into the define insulin resistant syndrome.bloodstream in the form of sugars such as glucose and other basic
substances. The increase in sugar in the bloodstream signals the To address these issues we focus on getting the receptors to work pancreas (an organ located behind the stomach) to increase the normally again. This is achieved through appropriate nutrients and secretion of a hormone called insulin. This hormone attaches to cells, diet correction, as well as improving sleep patterns and balancing removing sugar from the bloodstream so that it can be used for energy. stress levels. Unless these areas are brought into balance it is very
difficult to lose weight.In insulin resistance, the body's cells have a diminished ability to
respond to the action of the insulin hormone. To compensate for the
insulin resistance, the pancreas secretes more insulin. People with this
syndrome have insulin resistance and high levels of insulin in the
blood as a marker of the disease rather than a cause. Over time people
with insulin resistance can develop high sugars or diabetes as the high We now know that certain drugs can actually steal insulin levels can no longer compensate for elevated sugars. nutrients from our body and these deficiencies can lead to further
health problems. For example, we know that the statin drugs used for
lowering high levels of cholesterol and to reduce the risk of a heart
attack, or stroke, can deplete nutrients in the body that can contribute
to side-effects and ultimately other health problems. By restoring
these nutrients we can reduce a doctor's liability and downstream The mechanism is unclear, but studies some of these side-effects. For example, we now know that statins suggest that the worse the blood pressure, the worse the insulin steal nutrients such as magnesium, Zinc, D3 and Co-Q10. resistance.
The typical cholesterol levels of a Statins often contribute to muscle person with insulin resistance are low HDL, or good cholesterol,
soreness and painand high levels of another blood fat called triglycerides.
Heart disease.
Obesity.
Kidney damage.
APJ 2: How do drugs contribute to nutrient depletion?
Can you give us some examples of perhaps cholesterol
or high blood pressure drugs?
Dr LaValle:
What Are The Signs of Insulin Resistance Syndrome?
Impaired fasting blood sugar, impaired glucose tolerance, or
type 2 diabetes
High blood pressure.
This
contributes to the well-known statin side-effects, which include: Abnormal cholesterol levels.Muscle damage and pain –
APJ 108
APJ 5: In closing, what are the metabolic effects
of chronic stress and cortisol elevation?
Dr LaValle:
These are:
GUT:
BRAIN:Liver damage –
IMMUNE:
Digestive problems –
More specifically, chronic stress and cortisol elevation can Rash or flushing –affect body function in the following ways:
Increased blood sugar or type 2 diabetes –
Neurological side effects –
APJ 3: How can we minimise the impact of stress on
ageing? What are your key strategies that you believe
practitioners and therapists should recommend?
Dr LaValle:Here are just some recommendations:
Develop mindfulness –
Improve sleep quality –
Managing over-commitment –
Emotional overload –
James B. LaValle R.Ph.,C.C.N is the founder of Integrative Health Resources,
which is focused as a natural products industry consulting company. He has 27 Stress responses – year’s experience integrating natural therapies into various medical and
business models. Dr LaValle is best known for his expertise in natural
therapeutics application and drug/nutrient depletion issues and uncovering the
underlying metabolic issues that keep people from feeling healthy and vital. He is APJ 4: Do stress responses change as we age and in the author of 16 e-books and 17 books and has writtened hundreds of articles for
what way? a variety of industry journals and publications, and has lectured for thousands of
healthcare professionals and consumer audiences globally on these topics. Dr Dr LaValle:LaValle also served as an adjunct associate professor at Cincinnati College of
Pharmacy for over 14 years and currently serves as Adjunct Professor in
Metabolic Medicine at the University of South Florida Medical School.
changes that can lead also to changes in the brain/body
structural architecture. We have evidence that the brain
has a level of plasticity that makes it possible in the right
environment and support to repair itself. This is great
news, because as we learn to manage stress, hormonal
integrity and our glucose levels we can live longer and
healthier lives. By learning how to cope better, maintain a
wonderful attitude to life, we can help keep our hormonal
reserves and age gracefully, while protecting ourselves
from many diseases.
There are multiple effects of stress and
cortisol elevation, but in summary there are three major
areas of the body that can be altered.
Compromising gut permeability and contributing
to IDO elevation
Cortisol elevation, NMDA excitation, reduced Occasionally, statin use can cause the liver to
neuroplasticity and SNS/PNS imbalanceincrease its production of enzymes that help digest food, drinks
Th1/Th2 imbalance, Microglial activation and IL-6, and medications TNFα
Some people taking a statin may develop
nausea, gas, diarrhoea or constipation after taking a statin
You could develop a rash or flushing after you
start taking a statin. If you take a statin and niacin, either in a Increased insulin secretion combination pill such as Simcor or as two separate medications, Increased fat depositionyou're more likely to have this side-effect Alteration in immune function It's possible your Muscle wastingblood sugar (blood glucose) level may increase when you take a Hypothyroidism (adrenal exhaustion)statin, which may lead to developing type 2 diabetes.Memory loss The FDA warns on statin labels that Alteration in sex hormones some people have developed memory loss or confusion while Mental and Emotional instabilitytaking statins.
Bone loss/mineral loss
Sodium and water retention
Elevated blood lipids
Loss of REM sleep
Increase plaque formation There are several simple, yet effective ways to minimise Increase in cardiovascular risk factors
stress levels. Receptor Site activation on Tumor cells It is important to review our thought
patterns and practise regular slow, deep, breathing techniques as The good news is that there is much we can do to improve health, an effective ways of lowering the harmful effects of stress. through lifestyle changes, nutrition, exercise, diet, relaxation
techniques and mindfulness. There also excellent adaptogen herbs Managing such issues as room that can further assist the body to overcome inflammation. These temperature, lighting, eliminating electro-magnetic devices in include Aswaganda, Eurycoma, Ginseng root and Rhodiola rosea. All your sleep zone and looking at ways to promote restful and these herbs are adaptogens, which means they have the capacity to adequate hours of sleep is very important.stabilise physiological processes in the body and the promotion of Chronic overload may require homeostasis, an example being by decreased cellular sensitivity to counselling so that individuals can address these issues and stress. identify ways to better manage their workload.
Women in particular tend to take on too
much. They need to be nurtured and assisted in being less stressed
and anxious.
Look at stress response and invest in
improving coping mechanism.
We now know that with effective strategies we can
minimise the negative impact of ageing. Ageing no longer needs to be
feared. Much can be achieved by improving the efficiency of the
nervous system and protecting the body from harmful hormonal
APJ 109
apanconference
TASMANIA – A Great SuccessTASMANIA – A Great SuccessTasmania brought out the sunshine to greet us for the last APAN
thAesthetics Conference for 2014 on Sunday 12 October.
As planned, delegates were invited to join us for a fun day on Saturday th11 as we explored the renowned Salamanca Markets in Hobart,
which was just walking distance from the Grand Chancellor where the
conference was held. As most locals were working in their salons or
clinics a small group of us, including Leslie Morgan-Wesson who
came from Sydney to join us, our MC Terry Everitt also from Sydney
and Sandra Mole from Queensland joined us as we explored the
markets.
Greeting us at the beginning of the market was an antique car
exhibition, which was quite a spectacle, attracting motor enthusiasts
as colourful and time-honoured vehicles were lined up, some over a
century old.
From there we moved to the various stalls displaying a variety of
produce and unusually artefacts. Bursting with the abundance of
colour from local crafts to the amazing local flowers, aromas of fresh
coffee, fresh garden vegetables and an array of local produce made
meandering through the stalls so much fun.
Leather goods, including incredibly crafted handbags, and amazing
wood carvings from unique woods such as lemon myrtle or beech,
APJ 110
APJ 111
made for great shopping as
did meticulously crafted
hand-made jewellery from
genuine silver, rose gold
and gemstones, which were
a shopper’s delight for those
w h o w e r e s e e k i n g
something unique and
delicate.
From there we visited
Richmond for a leisurely
lunch at a wonderful
r e s t a u r a n t g a r d e n ,
discussing everything from
business to the gorgeous
native flora that surrounded
us. Following lunch we
disbursed to explore the
q u a i n t b o u t i q u e s o f
exquisitely crafted pottery,
jewellery, handcrafted,
unique lace and leather
goods. The day ended with
some cheese and wine
tasting and enjoying the
amazing scenery.
The following day the
temperatures rise to a lovely
22 degrees, which is
unusual for Tasmania at that
time of the year, but we
were thrilled because
several salon and clinic
owners were driving from
L a u n c e s t o n f o r t h e
conference, which is a two
to 2.5 hour drive.
The lecturers featured
Professor Ray Hayek, who
p r e s e n t e d a c l i n i c a l
perspective to assessing the
skin and determining not
just the symptoms, but also
questioning the potential
causative reasons for
lesions and abnormalities,
and the role the aesthetic
therapist and clinicians
have in alerting clients and
potential pathology.
Dr Stephen Newbery from
Tasman ian Rad ia t ion
Health explored the whole
reason for legislation, the
scope of its purpose and
o b j e c t i v e s a n d h o w
regulations fit into the
national framework in
determining practitioner
behaviour and minimising
risk to the consumer.
APJ 112
Dr Christine Houghton
e x p l o r e d t h e
antioxidant theory and
l o o k e d a t h o w
n u t r i g e n o m i c s
provides new answers
to optimising health for
both body and the skin.
She also introduced
how nutrigenomics is
now moving in to
skincare formulations
and their benefit and
objectives.
Tina Viney presented
s o m e i n t e r e s t i n g
research findings from
IBIS World Research
specifically as they
relate to the Australian
Beauty and Aesthetics
Industry, and compared
them with global trends
in consumer behaviour
a n d a d v a n c e s i n
technology. She also
presented the latest
f i n d i n g s o f t h e
“knowledge curve” as
d e t e r m i n e d b y
Buckminster Fuller
which demonstrated
the alarming speed by
which information is
doubling every 12
hours. Threats and
opportunities were
also identified and the
evolving changes to
the aesthetics industry.
APAN lawyer Michael
Bishop from Pointon
P a r t n e r L a w y e r s
p r e s e n t e d s o m e
compelling information on
commissions and the rules that
g o v e r n i m p l e m e n t i n g
c o m m i s s i o n - b a s e d
remuneration within a business.
He alerted businesses to areas
that non-compliance can cause
them grief and how to avoid
these situations.
To conclude the event Mark
Viney spoke on the advances in
communication technologies
and pitfalls to avoid. He
expounded on various tools and
their effective use such as
effective use, of QR Codes in
drawing consumers to your products and services. Mark also covered information on the
changing landscape of web extensions that are about to change the whole Internet space and
ways that consumers interact with business.
The event was supported by several
cosmetic and equipment companies who
provided delegates with an opportunity to
identify ways of enhancing their services to
their clients.
The event was very successful and
delegates who attended commented on the
high calibre of information they gained,
and also appreciated the opportunity to
meet quality suppliers in a more relaxed
and less rushed environment.
stThe next APAN Conference will be conducted in BRISBANE at the Stamford Plaza Hotel on Sunday 31 May, 2015 which
promises an amazing program for all industry professionals and business owners. For further details visit
www.apanetwork.com
Salamanca MarketsSalamanca Markets
Richmond Richmond
APJ 113
hormonereplacement
APJ 114
There is so much talk about the role of hormones in health and
wellbeing, but what about the skin? What role do hormones play
and why is it important that our hormones are correctly balanced
to support skin health and vitality?
New research points to some amazing new findings. As a BIO-IDENTICAL HORMONESskincare therapist understanding the role of hormones in skin
health has never been more important, especially if your
treatment goals aim to improve, correct and even reverse skin
damage.
Dr Julie Bradford is a Regenerative and Cosmetic Medical These include:Practitioner with over 30 years’ experience, and one of the first
Cosmetic Medical Doctors in Queensland and a leader in this
area of innovative medicine.
This article is an excerpt from a lecture she presented at
Cosmetex Conference this year entitled Cosmetic Benefits of
Bio-identical Hormones. While you may not be qualified to
prescribe hormone therapy, understanding their impact on the
body and skin will give an appreciation of the value of working
collaboratively with a regenerative medical practitioner for
better treatment outcomes.
When hormones are out of balance they accelerate the ageing of the
skin and the body. This is because hormones determine the skin and
body's biological age by controlling many physiological processes in
the skin, muscle and bone cells, and take care of circulation, collagen
formation, cell regeneration and skin moisture.
When we speak of hormone balancing we know that bio-identical
hormones can offer some amazing benefits and superior results to
synthetic hormones. This is because they have the same biochemical
structure as endogenous hormones. They are biochemically identical
and have the same effect on the body and, therefore, well tolerated.
Natural estrogens
Progesterone
DHEA
Testosterone
Melatonin
Thyroid hormones
Growth hormone
Let's look at these more closely.
THE COSMETIC AND HEALTH BENEFITS OF BIO-IDENTICAL HORMONES
By Dr. Julie Bradford
APJ 115
OESTROGEN – THE HORMONES OF BEAUTY
Oestrogen has an amazing 400 functions in the body.
These are too numerous to mention in this article,
however, here are some key functions:
ESTRONE 1
ESTRADIOL E2
NATURAL OESTROGEN
ESTRIOL E3
Oestrogen is typically responsible for the shape of the
female body, but it is also a key component of hormonal
health for men. In men it is responsible for bone
metabolism, prostate function, fertility and brain function.
Production of choline acetyltransferase, an enzyme that
prevents Alzheimer's disease
Increase metabolic rate
Improves insulin sensitivity
Regulates body temp
Helps prevent muscle damage and maintain muscles
Improves sleep, lower risk of cataracts and help
maintain the elasticity of arteries
In terms of the skin oestrogen helps maintain the amount of collagen Estrone 1 is the main oestrogen made by the body post-menopause.
in the skin, improve the water content of the skin and improve Many researchers believe high levels increase a woman's risk of breast
thickness and softness of the skin. Oestrogen also helps decrease cancer, so levels need to be monitored.
wrinkles.
Additionally, oestrogen helps to enhance energy, improve mood, This is the strongest oestrogen and is responsible for many functions, maintains bone density and has an anti-inflammatory effect.including helping maintain bone structure, supporting serotonin
levels, growth hormone and endorphins. It helps the absorption of Ca,
Mg + Zn and helps maintain Vitamin K levels, improves sleep, helps Not all oestrogen is equal. In fact there are three types of natural
maintain memory, minimises fatigue and works as an antioxidant.oestrogen with each one offering different benefits. This is why each
individual's needs are different and tests are needed to determine
where the deficiencies lie so that a customised compounded formula Large quantities of estriol E3 are made during pregnancy. can target to deliver the necessary benefits. Considerable evidence exists to show that it protects against breast
cancer, and it is used in Europe to treat breast cancer instead of The three oestrogens are: E1– estrone, E2– estradiol and E3– estriol. Tamoxifen. However, it does not have the bone, heart or brain Each one of these offers unique benefits that are slightly different.protection of estradiol.
DOES OESTROGEN PREVENT
SKIN AGEING?
SKIN BENEFITS OF OESTROGENAs far as skin is concerned studies have found the effects of
oestrogens on the skin include:
PROGESTERONE
Benefits of natural progesterone include:
OESTROGEN INCREASES COLLAGEN AND
HYALURONIC ACID
content in adults decreases by 1% every
year. Approx. 30% of skin collagen is lost
in the first five years after menopause.
Oestrogens reverse this trend and
increase skin collagen. Oestrogens also
enhance the synthesis of hyaluronic acid
and promote water retention.
A study using postmenopausal women
evaluated relationship between oestrogen
use and skin wrinkling, dryness and
atrophy. Oestrogen use was associated
with a statistically significant decrease in
the likelihood of senile dry skin. The
study confirms that wrinkling was
substantially lower in oestrogen users.
Oestrogen use was not associated with
skin atrophy. Results further suggest that
oestrogen use prevents dry skin and skin wrinkling, thus extending the
potential benefits of postmenopausal oestrogen therapy to include
protection against selected age and menopause-associated
dermatologic conditions.Greater epidermal and dermal thickness from increased collagen
production
'Filling-in' of wrinkles
Better structure and ordering of elastin fibres Pre-menopausal production of progesterone is mostly from the
ovaries, while post-menopausal sees some production of Greater vascularisationprogesterone from adrenals. Progesterone is the most common Higher levels of hyaluronic acid and mucopolysaccharides – hormone deficient in peri-menopausal women.increased dermal hydration
Inhibition of excessive sebum productionNatural progesterone is often needed after a hysterectomy and can be Diminished hyperpilosity and virilisation of facial hair (ie. less administered orally or through transdermal delivery as a nocturnal facial hair, less masculine in type – less coarse and dark) dose of 80-300mg daily. Antioxidant action, protecting the skin against free radical
damage Synthetic progesterone or progestins have a different chemical
structure to natural progesterone and therefore do not reproduce the There is now sufficient evidence to support that oestrogen promotes same actions of natural progesterone.youthful skin. Oestrogens prevent skin ageing. They increase skin
thickness and improve skin moisture. In fact, skin ageing can be The side effects of progestins is that it can increase appetite leading to significantly delayed by administration of oestrogen. A critical potential weight gain, fluid retention, irritability, depression, mechanism by which oestrogen maintains a youthful plump headache, low energy, bloating, breast tenderness and low libido. appearance is to increase synthesis of collagen. Collagen atrophy is a They can also contribute to acne and nausea in some individuals.major factor in skin ageing. Studies now confirm a strong correlation
between skin collagen loss and oestrogen deficiency at menopause.On the other hand, these symptoms are not found when using natural
progesterone. Skin ageing, especially in the face, is associated with progressive
increase in sagging tissues and reduction in elasticity. In menopausal
and post-menopausal women, oestrogen administration increases Helps balance oestrogencollagen content, dermal thickness and elasticity, while decreasing Natural calming effectsageing dry skin. Furthermore, oestrogens exert significant effects on
Aids use and elimination of fatsskin physiology by modulating the effects of key epidermal and
dermal cells. The skin is an important oestrogen-responsive endocrine Lowers cholesteroltissue. The very thin skin observed in the elderly can be directly May protect against breast cancercorrelated to lack of oestrogens needed to generate collagen and Increases scalp hairmaintain skin thickness. Normalises libido
Helps balance cellular fluid
Has anti-proliferative effect
Does not change positive effect of oestrogen on blood flow
Increases metabolic rateThe first signs women experience at onset of menopause is increasing Natural diureticskin dryness, followed by a loss of skin firmness and elasticity. These Natural anti-depressantsymptoms correspond to changes in collagen and elastic fibres, Helps sleepreported to be due to oestrogen deficiency. Both total collagen content
and ratio of type III and type I collagen decline with age. Skin collagen Lowers high blood pressure
APJ 116
TESTOSTERONE
DHEA
MELATONIN
THYROID HORMONE
GROWTH HORMONE
TRANSDERMAL FACIAL HORMONES
stimulated by exercise, especially anaerobic exercise. Growth
hormone is also stimulated by a high-protein diet as well as fasting. Testosterone is made by the adrenals and ovaries in females and Our levels of growth hormone are reduced by stress, alcohol, high decreases with age. In males it is mostly made by the testes.carbohydrate and sugar diets, ageing, sleep deprivation, smoking and
drugs such as marijuana.The key function of testosterone in woman is that it increases libido
and improves a sense of emotional wellbeing, self-confidence and The hormonal stimulators of growth hormone include testosterone, motivation. It also supports muscle mass and strength. Testosterone Estrogens (transdermal), Progesterone, Thyroid hormones, also helps maintain memory, improves muscle tone and down Melatonin, DHEA, Cortisol (physiological doses only). On the other regulates excessive body fat. It also protects against body hand, the hormonal inhibitors of growth hormone include cortisol and deterioration.other gluco-steroids in high doses, oral oestrogens and endogenous
insulin (insulin resistance).Symptoms of low testosterone include muscle wasting, dry, thin skin
with poor elasticity, thinning and dry hair, droopy eyelids and sagging Growth hormone is highly beneficial for skin integrity. It assists skin cheeks. thickness and elasticity, decreases sun damage-type wrinkling and
total body fat (14.4%). It increases lean muscle mass (8.8%). It also On the other hand, excessive testosterone can manifest symptoms of increases bone-mineral density, improves cholesterol profile and also anxiety, depression, fatigue, salt and sugar cravings, acne/oil skin, improved exercise capacity. Growth hormone also improves blood hirsuitism, irregular periods, weight gain (apple body shape), fluid flow to kidneys, general energy levels, allows for faster wound retention and even alopecia (male pattern).healing, it improves sleep, mood elevation, hair regrowth, exercise
performance and sharpens vision and hearing, as well as enhances
collagen synthesis and repair.DHEA is made by the adrenal glands. A small amount is also made in
the brain and skin. It is usually produced between 9pm and 1am. Symptoms of excessive growth hormone include carpal tunnel DHEA production declines with age, starting from late 20s. DHEA is syndrome, joint aches, muscle aches, oedema and increase in blood a precursor of other sex hormones such as oestrogen, progesterone sugar (temporary).and testosterone. Functions of
DHEA include, supports
immune system, helps the
body repair itself and maintain
tissue integrity, improves
sleep, helps the body deal with
stress, improves sense of well-
being, brain function and
memory. Causes of low
DHEA can be attributed to
menopause, stress, ageing,
smoking and OCPs. DHEA
replacement therapy can
improve insulin sensitivity,
improve damaging effects of
stress and improve muscle
strength and lean body mass.
DHEA also has a protective
effect against cancer, diabetes,
obesity, increased cholesterol
and auto-immune diseases.
Excessive DHEA symptoms
include sugar cravings,
restless sleep, irritability,
weight gain, acne, mood
changes, fatigue and anger.
Melatonin is a powerful anti-
oxidant and controls the diurnal rhythm. Melatonin improves sleep A well-balanced thyroid will increase energy and minimise fatigue, disorders, prevents jet lag, strengthens immune system and can slow improves tolerance to cold, improves dry skin, minimises down the ageing process. Symptoms of excessive melatonin include headaches/migraines, increases fertility, controls obesity, improve bad dreams, drowsiness and low oxytocin production.cholesterol profile, improves depression, improves foggy head and
improves constipation.
Growth hormone is made by the anterior pituitary gland. It is
produced in spikes, not continuously. Major production is during the The administration of medical hormone cosmetics can influence skin first hour of sleep (before midnight). Growth hormone is also
APJ 117
ageing at its roots and therefore are highly beneficial. Only when all
hormones are in balance can the skin cell physiology work perfectly A further study conducted with peri and postmenopausal women and the skin develops its natural beauty. Studies show that the use of using 2% progesterone cream confirmed a significant increase of hormone cosmetics can delay the skin's ageing process by up to 10 elastic skin properties in the treatment group was demonstrated. years and existing skin damage can be repaired. Clinical monitoring showed a reduction in wrinkle counts (29.10%),
wrinkle depth (9.72%) around the eyes, greater decrease in nasolabial
wrinkle depth (9.72%) and a significantly higher increase in skin
firmness (23.61%). Progesterone was well absorbed in the systemic Studies confirm the evaluated effect of topical E2 on the skin in circulation. Mean blood levels rose minimally. No serious side-effects improving collagen and elastin in postmenopausal women, aged 52 -of treatment were observed. Topical 2% progesterone increases 76, using topical E2 daily. Content of skin hydroxyproline; levels of elasticity and firmness in the skin of peri and postmenopausal women. carboxyterminal propeptide of human type I procollagen (PICP) and
aminoterminal propeptide of human type III procollagen (PIIINP)
were measured along with number and quality of collagen and elastic
microfibrils. The amount of hydroxyproline in the skin significantly A four-month study using topical DHEA confirmed a significant increased 38% during E2 treatment. Topical E2 treatment increases activation of sebaceous glands in mature skin, decreased eye the amount of skin collagen. The increase in the level of PICP and wrinkles, improved skin thickness, increased androgen receptors and PIIINP indicates that E2 treatment stimulates collagen synthesis. pro-collagen expression. It also improved skin brightness, Results show that topical E2 treatment has a greater influence on the counteracted papery appearance of skin and epidermal atrophy and amount than on the quality of skin collagen. decreased the product and cornification of keratinocytes that form
rough skin.
In numerous studies, melatonin produced in the skin has been found to 0.01% estradiol cream (0.1mg E2/g) and 0.3% estriol cream (3mg protect against the sequelae of UVB and UVA-induced oxidative E3/g) applied 1g of cream to the face once a day. Dramatic stress. In vitro studies involving UVB irradiation of keratinocytes, improvement on all measures in both E2 and E3 group were identified. fibroblasts and leukocytes, melatonin applied in both After only four months, both dermal and epidermal thickness was pharmacological and physiological doses decreased the fraction of enhanced, as well as dermal collagen levels. E3 group showed the damaged cells. Melatonin applied to the skin before UVB exposure improvement somewhat sooner – the chief advantage of E3 was lack protects against the development of cataract and erythema. Thus only of side-effects. Serum levels of E2 and E3 were unaffected by facial intracellular melatonin may protect cells against the effects of UVB treatment. exposure.
Another interesting study was conducted on women aged 48-59. with Estriol is a weak oestrogen when systemically administered, but it can moderate xerosis and photo-ageing. Subjects applied twice a day for induce potent anti-ageing effects as a topical treatment. Topical two months a nanocolloidal gel and/or took a supplement containing creams have been developed to nourish the skin with E3 without the ascorbic acid (Vit C), tocopherol (Vit E), alpha-lipoic acid, melatonin. potential dangers of therapies containing more potent forms of Oxidative stress and consequently lipid peroxidation decreased from oestrogen. There is evidence that E3 may inhibit some of the 30-40% in blood serum of all subjects treated with antioxidant unwanted effects of E2 by binding preferentially to the oestrogen compounds topically and by oral route. The study confirmed that the receptor-beta. compounds used play a role as topical and systemic photoprotectants.
These days we have a much better understanding of the role of Another study evaluated cytological vaginal smears of women aged
hormones in health and wellbeing as well as for skin health. As new 46-66 before and after three months of dermal oestrogen (1g of 0.01%
research continues to confirm their role and benefits we will see E2 ointment or 0.3% E3 ointment once daily), applied to the face for
hormone therapy continue to take centre stage as a valuable tool in dermatological indications. Both groups had gynaecological
both optimised health and for anti-ageing purposes.examinations, including cervical and vaginal smears before and after Editor’s Note: References available on request.treatment, and also monthly measurements of serum FSH, prolactin
and E2 levels. Serum hormone levels and the appearance of vaginal
smears showed no significant change during treatment.
Studies were conducted to determine if E2 and glycolic acid creams
produced a significant reversal of epidermal and dermal markers of
ageing and if the cumulative effect of the creams was greater than
either alone. Patients applied a cream containing 0.01% E2 or 15%
glycolic acid, alone or in combination, to one side of the face. E2
treatment produced a 23% increase in epidermal thickness; the
glycolic acid, a 27% increase; and the combination, a 38% increase.
All groups showed a statistically significant improvement in
reversing markers of skin ageing. A cumulative effect was seen when
E2 and glycolic acid creams were used in combination.
PROGESTERONE INCREASES ELASTICITY
OESTRADIOL E2 INCREASES COLLAGEN
TOPICAL DHEA
A RECENT STUDY COMPARED EFFECTS ON THE SKIN
MELATONIN AND ANTIOXIDANTSWOMEN AGED 44- 66
TRANSDERMAL ESTRIOL E3
MINIMAL SYSTEM IMPACT OF TRANSDERMAL IN CONCLUSION
OESTROGEN
Dr. Julie Bradford has over 30 years’ experience as a Medical Practitioner and
was one of the first Cosmetic Medicine Doctors in Queensland. She now trains
doctors nationwide in the art of cosmetic
injecting and thread lifting. She has a ESTRADIOL E2 AND GLYCOLIC ACID
Fellowship with the Australian College of
Cosmetic Surgery (Medical Faculty). Dr
Julie also has a Fellowship in Preventative
and Wellness medicine and is a leader in
this innovative area of medicine, and is one
of Queensland's only few Fellows of the
American Academy of Anti-Ageing
Medicine. It has taken more than two years
of study to attain this award. This latest
accolade is on top of Dr Julie's numerous
Australian medical qualifications.
The Bradford Clinic: [email protected]
Ph: (07) 4639 1250.
APJ 117
ingredientfocus
I grew up in an era when eating a diet
that was low in fat and high in
carbohydrates was advocated as the
way to good health. In my teenage
years the health pyramid placed fats
at the bottom of the triangle – fats
were considered the villains and we
were cautioned to eat them sparingly.
Dairy foods contain roughly 50 to 60 per cent saturated fat, and Now that I am well into my menopausal years and having gained a few conventional thinking is that saturated fat is bad for your heart. This kilos, I went on a medically supervised diet with literally no fat for a idea has been thoroughly refuted as false. It's a mistaken interpretation period of time. While I lost much of my fat and reached my ideal
1of the science. In a 2010 analysis, scientists said: weight, my doctor discovered that virtually all of my hormones were “There is no significant evidence for concluding that dietary also totally depleted. Interesting enough, good fats are essential in saturated fat is associated with an increased risk of coronary heart processing hormones. As a result I was advised to start increasing my disease or cardiovascular disease.”fats by eating abundant quantities of oily fish, organic butter, coconut
oil, olive oil, avocado and eggs. Within six weeks my hormones were
once again balanced and I did not gain any weight. In my case, what I
discovered was that I was gaining weight when I combined fats,
starches and sugars, with sugar being the main culprit for weight gain More recently, research presented at the European Association for the
and insulin resistance, which was also starting to give me diabetic Study of Diabetes (EASD) in Vienna, Austria, found that eating full-
symptoms.fat dairy products, such as whole milk, cream, cheese and butter
actually reduces your risk of developing diabetes. Today, you will still find that most mainstream dietary advice
recommends low-fat or non-fat dairy. But a growing number of The study included nearly 27,000 people between the ages of 45-74
experts argue that it's far healthier to eat and drink whole dairy who were followed for 14 years.
products with all the fat left in.
LOWERING RISK OF DIABETES THROUGH FULL-FAT
DAIRY
WHY BUTTER IS NO LONGER A DIRTY WORDNew Science Reveals Fat Isn't What's Hurting Our Health
By Tina Viney
WHY BUTTER IS NO LONGER A DIRTY WORDNew Science Reveals Fat Isn't What's Hurting Our Health
By Tina Viney
APJ 119
2The Telegraph over a nine-year period than women who ate only low-fat (or no) As reported in , those who ate eight portions of full-fat 6dairy products a day cut their risk of diabetes by nearly 25 per cent, dairy products.
compared to those who ate fewer portions. People who ate the most full-fat dairy were less
likely to die from cardiovascular disease, according to a 16-year 7study of Australian adults.
200 millilitres (ml) of milk or yoghurt
20 grams (g) of cheese
25 grams of cream More and more people are starting to realise the fallacy of the low-fat 7 grams of butter 8 myth. As noted by NPR, in 1992, 44 per cent of household cooks
surveyed reported being “concerned about the amount of cholesterol Also, consuming 30 ml of cream or 180 ml of high-fat yoghurt daily in their food”. Today, that number has dropped down to 27 per cent.
reduced the risk of diabetes by 15 per cent and 20 percent respectively,
compared to those who ate none. According to lead author Dr. Ulrika Other countries have also switched over from margarine to butter in 3Ericson of the Lund University Diabetes Center in Malmö, Sweden: ever-increasing numbers. According to dairy economist Brian Gould,
“Our observations may contribute to clarifying previous findings American butter export has grown from zero to just over 10 per cent of regarding dietary fats and their food sources in relation to type 2 the market since the early 2000s.diabetes.
The decreased risk at high intakes of high-fat dairy products, but not Keep in mind that butter's nutritional value depends on how the cows of low-fat dairy products, indicate that dairy fat, at least partly, are raised, as the fatty acid composition of butterfat varies according explains observed protective associations between dairy intake and to the animal's diet. The very best-quality butter is raw (unpasteurised) type 2 diabetes. from grass-pastured cows, preferably certified organic. (One option is Our findings suggest that in contrast to animal fats in general, fats 9to make your own butter from raw milk.) specific to dairy products may have a role in prevention of type 2
diabetes,” the study concluded. The next best is pasteurised butter from grass-fed or pastured organic
cows, followed by regular pasteurised butter common in 4In 2010, a study published in the Annals of Internal Medicine supermarkets. Even the latter two are healthier choices by orders of
proposed that it's the palmitoleic acid, which occurs naturally in full- magnitude than margarines or spreads. fat dairy products, that protects against insulin resistance and diabetes.
People who consumed full-fat dairy had higher levels of trans-
palmitoleate in their blood, and this translated to a two-thirds lower Other research backs up the suggestion that butter is a health food that risk of developing type 2 diabetes compared to people with lower offers both short-term and long-term benefits for your health. One levels.
0study found that fat levels in your blood are actually lower after eating
a meal rich in butter than after eating one rich in olive oil, canola oil or
flaxseed oil.
The scientists' main explanation is that about 20 per cent of butterfat Experts stress that if we want to gain the best nutritional value from consists of short- and medium-chain fatty acids, which are used right our dairy products we should avoid pasteurised foods if possible. away for quick energy and therefore don't contribute to fat levels in Unfortunately, research on raw dairy – which is always full-fat are few your blood. Other oils (canola, flax, etc.) contain only long-chain fatty and far between, so here are some studies using pasteurised dairy for acids, which are more readily stored as fat.the sake of showing that the full-fat versions are the better choice.
What this means is that a significant portion of the butter you consume
is used immediately for energy – similar to a carbohydrate. But, unlike
a carbohydrate, it doesn't adversely affect your insulin and leptin
levels. The primary nutrients found in butter are outlined in the table Conjugated linoleic acid (CLA), a type of fat found below.
naturally in cow's milk,
significantly lowers the
risk of cancer. In one 5study, those who ate at
least four servings of
high-fat dairy foods each
day had a 41 per cent
lower risk of bowel
cancer than those who ate
less than one. Each
i n c r e m e n t o f t w o
s e r v i n g s o f d a i r y
products reduced a
woman's colon cancer
risk by 13 per cent.
Women who ate
at least one serving of
full-fat dairy a day gained
30 percent less weight
Heart Disease:
One serving counted as:
BUTTER ACKNOWLEDGED AS A BETTER OPTION
THE MANY HEALTH BENEFITS OF GRASS-FED BUTTER
RESEARCH SHOWING FULL-FAT DAIRY HAS
EXCELLENT HEALTH BENEFITS
Besides lowering your risk for diabetes, previous studies have
also shown that consuming full-fat dairy may help reduce your
risk of:
Cancer:
Weight:
APJ 120
BUTTER IS RICH IN FAT-SOLUBLE VITAMINS
BUTTER AND SKIN BENEFITS
RAW DAIRY IS PREFERABLE OVER
PASTEURISED
result, drinking pasteurized milk can tax your
pancreas and promote disease – particularly
allergies.
A number of studies have also demonstrated
the superior safety of raw milk compared to
pasteurised. Contrary to popular belief, the
vast majority of foodborne illnesses are
actually linked to factory farmed and highly
p ro ces s ed f o o d s , n o t r aw f o o d s .
Unfortunately, despite overwhelming
evidence of safety and health benefits, in
Australia we can get some organic milk that is
non-homogenised, however, all raw milk
products including cream must be labelled
“for cosmetic use only”. That's in sharp
contrast to Europe, where some nations even
sell it in vending machines, but there's really
no need to fret about the safety of raw milk,
provided it comes from organically raised,
pastured cows.
14Research by Dr. Ted Beals, MD, featured in the summer 2011 issue There are a lot of fat-soluble vitamins in butter. This includes vitamins of Wise Traditions, shows that you are actually about 35,000 times A, E and K2.more likely to get sick from other foods (most of which are processed)
than you are from raw milk.I'm not going to make a big deal out of A and E. If you're eating a
healthy diet that includes animals and plants then you are probably You can easily ascertain the quality of grass-fed milk, butter, and getting enough of those already. But I do want to talk a bit about yoghurt by its colour. The carotenoids in the plants cows eat on pasture Vitamin K2, which is fairly rare in the modern diet and which many
people don't know about.
Vitamin K2 can have powerful effects on health. It is
intimately involved in calcium metabolism and a low
intake has been associated with many serious diseases,
including cardiovascular disease, cancer and osteoporosis.
Dairy from grass-fed cows is particularly rich in Vitamin
K2. The bottom line is that butter contains a lot of fat-
soluble vitamins. Grass-fed butter is particularly rich in
Vitamin K2, which can have powerful health benefits.
Looking at the above nutritional chart it is quite evident
why butter can also benefit and support a healthy skin.
Loaded with vitamins such as A, E, K2 and D as well as the
various mineral such as selenium, zinc and copper are all
important nutrients to improve skin health and flexibility.
In my case losing weight aged my face substantially.
However, once I reintroduced good fats in my diet, within
two weeks I saw a vast improvement in skin-tone and
elasticity, with many of my lines plumping up and even
disappearing. It was quite amazing.
While the featured research focused on the fat content of
the dairy, I also want to point out that the issue of
pasteurisation is another important consideration. Raw
milk from organically raised grass-fed cows is far superior
in terms of health benefits compared to pasteurised milk.
Pasteurisation destroys enzymes, diminishes vitamins,
denatures milk proteins, destroys vitamin B12 and vitamin
B6, kills beneficial bacteria and actually promotes the
growth of pathogens. Many of the enzymes that are
destroyed in this process are needed for digestion. As a
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gives grass-fed products a more yellow-orange cast. When cows are
raised on dried grass or hay, opposed to fresh-growing grass, you end
up with a whiter product, which is an indication of reduced carotenoid
and antioxidant content. Raw-milk yoghurt is also very thick and
creamy, compared to pasteurised commercial varieties. The same
goes for pastured eggs, which can be ascertained by their deep-orange
yolk. CAFO chickens, which never go outdoors, and are fed grains
rather than bugs and insects, produce eggs with pale-yellow yolks.
BENEFITS OF BUTTER AT A GLANCE1.Butter is rich in the most easily absorbable form of Vitamin A
necessary for thyroid and adrenal health.
2.Contains lauric acid, important in treating fungal infections and
candida.
3.Contains lecithin, essential for cholesterol metabolism.
4.Contains anti-oxidants that protect against free radical damage.
5.Has anti-oxidants that protect against weakening arteries.Margarine significantly increased the risk of cardiovascular disease, 6. Is a great source of Vitamins E and K.while butter had no effect.
7. Is a very rich source of the vital mineral selenium.
8.Saturated fats in butter have strong anti-tumor and anti-cancer Another study revealed that high-fat dairy consumption reduced the
properties. risk of heart disease by a whopping 69%, most likely due to increased 9.Butter contains conjugated linoleic acid, which is a potent anti- Vitamin K2 intake.
cancer agent, muscle builder and immunity boosterThe results of this study revealed that margarine raises heart-attack 10. Vitamin D found in butter is essential to absorption of calcium.risk, while natural butter does not. Grass-fed butter may even reduce 11. Protects against tooth decay.heart-attack risk due to the high Vitamin K2 content.12. Is your only source of an anti-stiffness factor, which protects
against calcification of the joints.
13. Anti-stiffness factor in butter also prevents hardening of the
arteries, cataracts and calcification of the pineal gland.The 4-carbon fatty acid butyrate is created by bacteria in the colon
14. Is a source of Activator X, which helps your body absorb when they are exposed to dietary fibre. This may be the main reason
minerals.fibre has health benefits for humans. But there is another good dietary
15. Is a source of iodine in highly absorbable form. source of butyrate fatty acid in butter, which is about 3-4% butyrate. In 916.May promote fertility in women. fact, butyr-ate derives its name from butter.
17. Is a source of quick energy, and is not stored in our body’s Studies confirm that butyrate supplementation prevents weight gain adipose tissue.on an unhealthy diet by increasing energy expenditure and reducing 18. Cholesterol found in butterfat is essential to children's brain and food intake. It also improves the function of mitochondria and lowers nervous system development.fasting triglycerides and insulin.
19. Contains Arachidonic Acid (AA), which plays a role in brain
function and is a vital component of cell membranes.
20. Protects against gastrointestinal infections in the very young or There are several sources that state that Australian margarine does not
the elderly.contain as many trans fats. However, there are now numerous studies
that confirm that butter is the best and safest option. Furthermore,
butter tastes so much better than any margarine. For me and my health
butter has proven to be the best option.
Mainstream nutrition guidelines tend to backfire and have the
opposite effect of what they were intended to do. A prime example of Full Fat Dairy May Reduce Your Risk of Diabetes and Other Health Problemsthat is the recommendation to replace butter with margarine. www.Mercola.com1 The American Journal of Clinical Nutrition March 2010: 91(3); 535-546However, margarine is totally different. It is a highly processed food 2 Telegraph September 16, 2014 that was invented to replace butter. The primary ingredient is 3 Telegraph September 16, 2014 vegetable oil along with emulsifiers, colorants and various artificial 4 Annals of Internal Medicine 2010 Dec 21;153(12):790-9
ingredients. 5 American Journal of Clinical Nutrition October 2005: 82(4); 894-900 6 American Journal of Clinical Nutrition December 2006: 84(6); 1481-1488
Vegetable oil is liquid at room temperature. This is why margarine is 7 European Journal of Clinical Nutrition June 2010:64, 569-577 8 9 often hydrogenated, which gives it a harder consistency and extends NPR September 6, 2014
shelf life. Hydrogenation also turns some of the vegetable oils into Positron Handmade Organic Cultured Butter trans fats. Science Daily February 10, 2010
Weston A. Price Foundation January 1, 2000 12 Medicinenet.com July 8, 2014 A study in the US, known as the Framingham heart study, examined 13 Modern Farmer March 25, 2014 the effects of butter and margarine on cardiovascular disease. The RealMilk.com following graph shows the results:
BUTTER IS A GOOD SOURCE OF THE FATTY ACID
BUTYRATE
CONCLUSION
BUTTER LOWERS HEART-ATTACK RISK COMPARED TO
MARGARINE
REFERENCE:
Butter
Margarine
Teaspoons per day
Ag
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ed C
HD
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den
ce ‘1
000
400
350
300
250
2000 1 to 4 5+
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