apj vol 18 2013
DESCRIPTION
Aesthetics Practitioners Journal Volume 18 Spring 2013 - The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network (APAN)TRANSCRIPT
Created By Nature Perfected By Science
YOUTHFUL RESULTS AT ANY AGE
Quality Assured throughISO 9001-2008 Certification
International Quality Standard
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Spring Issue Volume 18. 2013
PRACTITIONERSPRACTITIONERSAESTHETICS AESTHETICS
The official publication of the Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd ISSN: 1836-9812 JournalJournal
INDUSTRY REPORTS, NEWS AND PRODUCTS
REGULATIONS, EDUCATION AND TRAINING
SCIENTIFIC RESEARCH, TREATMENTS AND
TECHNOLOGY
BUSINESS, PERSONAL AND PROFESSIONAL
DEVELOPMENT
SEMINARS, EXPOS AND CONFERENCES
8-9 CEO’s Heart-2-Heart Report
18-21 Business News
50-56 Update on Industry Changes and the power of Strategic Intent in helping you be the winner
76-77 Skin Inspiration – A successful fusion of Aesthetics and Cosmetic Medicine
89-93 Product Innovations
108-111 Aesthetic Industry Bulletin
114-117 Scientific News
26-27 ATO Launches new program aimed at the Beauty Industry
62-64 The Research findings on The role of the Skin’s pH
70-72 The Science behind the use of Plant Stem Cells in Cosmetic Formulations
94-95 The Constantly changing Skin and the Value of Assessment and Review
100-102 Treatment Strategies for the Diabetic Client
118-119 Individual Flexible Arrangements –What they can offer your business
32-35 Nutrigenomics or Epigenetics –The must-know buzzwords stof 21 Century Healthcare
36-38 An Interview with the King of Hormones – Dr Thierry Hertoghe, MD
40-44 The Clinical Application of LED Light for Healing and Skin Rejuvenation
58-60 The Tenacity of Bacteria
80-81 New findings on Vitamin D and its role in Health and Immunity
84-97 The Gentle Current and its ability to achieve Skin Rejuvenation and Improved Facial Contour
98-99 Bay Laurel and its role in immune support in Aesthetics
22 Ask the Expert
66-69 The New Face of Public Relations and how it can Transform a Brand
78-79 How to navigate through the traps and pitfalls of the Start-up Business
112-113 The best-kept Secret to improving your Sales Figures and Growing your Business
23 Australian Aesthetics Conference – GOLD COAST
24-25 Building Expertise and Reputation –Australian Aesthetic Conference Speakers
th74-75 9 National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference
104-106 APAN's Adelaide Australian Aesthetic Conference – A great success
APJ 4
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EDITOR’S OTEN
A August has definitely been the
month for learning. The Sydney
International Beauty Expo staged
several educational programs,
APAN's Australian Aesthetics
Conference, also in Sydney on the th ,26 August and the AustralAsian
Academy of Anti-ageing Medicine
(A5M) staged their medical and aesthetic conference also at
the end of August. Choices were numerous and I trust your
excuses were none. While we will be reporting on all of
these events in the next issue of APJ you will not be
disappointed with this issue as we have some amazing
articles and further events we will be promoting.
thOn Sunday 27 October APAN will be staging its last
conference event for the year on the Gold Coast. We have
an amazing program and trust as many of you as possible
will attend. We have some excellent new and not so new
speakers who will be delivering an exciting and highly
informative educational program, so please check it out in
this journal and we encourage you to prioritise to attend this
event.
th thOn the 16-17 November the 9 National Laser and
Cosmetic Medicine Conference will be held in Sydney.
This event is always highly resourceful with an excellent
conference program for both medical and paramedical
practitioners.
As new research is validating the benefits of various
currents we are featuring several in-depth articles on
technology, in this issue. As hand-held devices start to
flood the market its time that we stepped up our knowledge
and confidently communicated to our clients why our
devices can deliver more serious results and how they are
able to achieve this, but to communicate convincingly will require that you possibly need to update your knowledge on the physics that govern the
technologies that you use. That is why we plan to run several articles over the course of the next 12 months on the science behind various
technologies.
We have had the honour to also feature some incredible experts. Dr Hertoghe, world hormone expert gives us some insight into metabolic
syndrome. Professor Holick, world expert on Vitamin D reveals new scientific information on this amazing nutrient. The article on Plant Stem
Cells by Michael Pugliese is a much-read as he brings some clarity as to how plant stem cells work in the skin, as this is quite a disputed area. Dr
Christine Houghton clarifies the difference between nutrigenomics and epigenetics – terms that hopefully will soon be very familiar to all of us as
these discoveries start to enter the field of cosmetic formulations. Terry Everitt presents some great information of the skin’s pH that identifies
new revelations and Matoyla Kollaras talks about how to treat the diabetic skin as well as reviews the amazing life of Christina Zehavi, the
formulator of Christina Cosmeceuticals. If you want to learn about the very latest consumer trends check out my article on the update of industry
changes and the power of strategic intent.
Enjoy the process of learning and allow it to stimulate
you with new energy and propel you to pursue your own
dreams with confidence and make them a reality.
Tina Viney, Editor
APJ 6
http://www.facebook.com/APAN.page
Follow APAN on http://twitter.com/#!/apanetwork
@apanetwork
APAN Website: http://www.apanetwork.com
APAN Office Email: [email protected]
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APJ 7
Editor
Typesetting & Graphics
Advertising and Marketing
Publishers
Design & ProductionArtwork and Editorial
Printed for
Accounts Payable
Journal Advisory Board
National Advisory Council
ISSN: 1836-981
Circulation 6500
Tina VineyPhone: (07) 5593 0360
Fax: 07 5593 0367Email: [email protected]: www.apanetwork.com
Mark VineyKharis Enterprises Pty Ltd
Tina VineyPhone: 07 5593 0360
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory NetworkPO Box 5448
Q Super Centre Qld 4218Australia
Fax: 07 5593 0367Mobile: 0412 177 423
Email: [email protected]
Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd
Kharis Enterprises Pty Ltd8 Parkdale CourtRobina Q 4226
Phone: 07 5593 0360Fax: 07 5593 0367
Mobile: 0412 177 423Email: [email protected]
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd
ACN 136 987 169ABN 25 136 987 169
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory NetworkPO Box 5448
Q Super Centre Qld 4218 Australia
Terry Everitt – Education featuresWendy Neely – PR and Marketing
Dr Douglas Grose – Scientific contentCaroline Nelson – Business Features
John FergussonTerry EverittBill AntonGill Fish
Vanessa KirkhamMaureen Houssein-Mustafa
Print Post Approved [100000257]
Mila d’OpizDistributed by Boutique Monique
Phone: 1300 464 523
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.miladopizaustralia.com.au
See pages 12-14 for details
The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is the official publication of the Aesthetics
Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd, a network organisation established to service the
needs of the aesthetics industry in the area of professional development and business
networking. The Aesthetics Practitioners Journal is published quarterly for the benefit of
its members and subscribers and aims to inform and educate its members on better business
practices and industry advancements.
All editorials and articles that are submitted for publishing remain the property of
Aesthetics Practitioners Advisory Network Pty Ltd. Reproduction in part or in whole is
not permitted without prior written authorisation by the publishers. Every effort has been
made to ensure that all scientific and technical information presented is as accurate as
possible at the time of publishing. However, members and readers are highly
recommended to also seek external advice from their accountant, registered financial
adviser or healthcare professional for their recommendations.
Welcome to APJ
FRONT COVER
Dear colleagues and friends
I recently heard a statement that truly resonated in my heart – it said that in the absence of clearly
defined goals we become strangely loyal to performing daily acts of trivia. Indeed, when our work
becomes routine what we need is inspiration and new knowledge, or life will become boring as
our hearts sink into a state of just going through the motions. Boredom is a sign of either
aimlessness or that familiarity has taken the thrill out of discovering the unexpected. It is a sign
that we need to be challenged afresh with new ideas, knowledge and information.
I truly believe that while the past few years have been difficult and many are suffering from
“battle fatigue” we are finally starting to see some light at the end of the tunnel. Globally
there have been some amazing innovative new advances in cosmetic formulations and in
device technologies that have the potential to truly place the aesthetic industry in a much
better position worldwide. We now have the tools to be able to contribute significantly to the
anti-ageing market. Meanwhile, consumer demand for looking younger is gaining momentum
each year, with figures increasing annually as more individuals are becoming comfortable to pursue
avenues that offer them a more youthful end result.
To meet this challenge educational pathways in Australia are on the increase. Advanced Diplomas,
Vocational Graduate Certificates in various post-graduate subjects and degree qualifications are on the
rise. Dermal therapies and advanced aesthetics units are delivering training that allows the industry to
update their skills and knowledge to meet the new level of knowledge that is needed to implement and
deliver advanced anti-ageing results. I believe that if we look back in 10 year's time our industry will be
vastly different – we will be able to achieve substantially better results than what we are achieving now.
Aesthetics itself is undergoing its own transformation.
When APAN first launched APJ in June 2009, looking back just four years on our content was remarkably
different to the articles we are currently featuring. We have grown from 100 to 124 pages and our content is
becoming more in-depth and technical. This is because our objective has always been to challenge the
industry to grow through innovative new ideas, knowledge and information. The industry really didn't
need another publication or another organisation for that matter that would follow the status quo of what
was already out there – that has never been our intention. We wanted to introduce to the industry an
organisation that offered a point of difference – one that stood true to its word to deliver what its mission
statement stated and what it promised – to provide the industry with tangible support and initiatives that
would deliver true solutions to their problems and true value for their membership investment.
We also wanted to become a bridge between aesthetics and cosmetic and anti-ageing medicine. We are the
first organisation to establish alliances with various medical societies and attend as many conferences as
possible on a regular basis, establishing valuable collaborative relationships between medical societies
and our industry to enhance communication and mutual respect for the benefit of both parties.
Our alliances with various medial societies have also allowed us to bring across to you some information
through our journal that you may not have been familiar with. We wanted to make a difference and I
believe we have achieved that and we are continuing to grow in credibility and influence as the industry,
the government as well as medical societies recognise our commitment and hard work to being a credible
voice and working diligently for the progress of those we represent.
As for our journal APJ, our aim was to create a publication that could have a level of authority in its tone
and statements and not be afraid to discuss such issues as industry complacency and address deficiencies or
to challenge the industry when necessary.
To date we have established 12 Strategic Alliance Partners. I am also happy to report that all discounts that
we are able to negotiate are for the members' benefit. APAN does not receive any commissions from
finance or insurance companies for referring business to them. What we do is on behalf of the members
and for their benefit and those that use this services are saving thousands of dollars a year and are extremely
WHAT HAS APAN ACHIEVED?
STRATEGIC ALLIANCE PARTNERS
APJ 8
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CEO’s Heart-2-Heart REPORT
A good archer is known not by his arrows but
by his aim.
Thomas Fuller
grateful for this. Some businesses are able to save up to half an
annual salary just from the saving they can achieve from the
APAN Strategic Alliance Partners.
Part of our core values is that we recognise that progress has as its
foundation credible knowledge and education. While we are
involved and supporting the development of formal
qualifications, we have also grown our annual Conference
Program to three events in three different States as of this year.
This allows us to support the industry with a quality professional
development program with a generic content. These events also
allow us to support networking and to interface with the industry
so that we can better research and understand their needs.
Since May last year APAN was invited to represent the aesthetic In a bid to provide the industry with accurate information both on a industry and is part of the Working Group with the Australian global and local scale, APAN directors invest over three hours each Radiation Protection and Nuclear Safety Agency (ARPANSA) day on studying reports and attending webinars and conferences for together with other stakeholders (most of which are representing the the purpose of gathering accurate industry intelligence. This is an interest of medical groups) for the purpose of looking at the issue of area that we are highly committed to and consider it as an area of our legislation for IPL and Laser for cosmetic purposes. expertise.
APAN was also invited to take on the position of lead organisation as Also as part of membership all members receive vouchers for FREE part of the National Workforce Development Fund (NWDF). This business coaching. The objective of these consultations is to assist in program offered salons the opportunity to improve their staff's skills evaluating areas that require improvement and more modern and knowledge through formal qualification. We were required to strategies. We believe these consultations do not conflict with select four RTO to deliver training and to select a qualification. Our business coaches such as Caroline Nelson with whom we are choice was the accredited SIB701 Vocational Graduate Certificate in involved, but rather complement other coaching services. Our IPL and Laser Hair Reduction – a qualification that will substantial coaching also investigates technical issues such as what treatments assist salons to improve their productivity. At this point over 210 they are offering and what products they use, as we also look at how applications have been submitted to APAN and are awaiting best we can assist salons and clinics to increase value services to the consideration. consumer by better understanding technologies and how to integrate
them for best results. Through our various expertise and knowledge I am pleased to report that the first 20 applicants have been approved we can make a difference.by the government and they are currently commencing their training
with the RTO Beauty Therapy Training Australia on the Gold Coast. I With the support and services of Pointon Partners Lawyers we are able spoke recently with the principal, Angela Smith, who reported to me to provide expert legal advice to members with regards to Wage that all students were progressing well through their training and they Awards. This information is provided in writing, bringing a new level were very excited to be gaining this qualification as part of this of credibility to this communication process between employer and initiative. She also told me that she was quite concerned that several employee. This has been a highly successful service and has assisted who were currently offering IPL and Laser treatments we operating in relieving a great deal of pain from many business owners.with a very poor understanding of frequencies, wavelengths and the
necessary safety, as well as the efficacy perameters of this technology
so that they could achieve not only safe but also good results. It is
quite evident that there is a huge need for this training and we intend to Currently we have developed over 40 resource documents to assist pursue a formal outcome for not only regulations, but also for further members with business and compliance issues so that they can receive government funding for such an initiative. This has been an enormous the right support in streamlining their standard business procedures.task that we have undertaken without any government funding for our
contribution to this project. This report only briefly outlines what we have achieved in just four
years and by no means represents all our initiatives, but suffice to say APAN has also been contacted by several Health Departments for our that we work diligently and hard to support the progress of our input into the needs of regulations for activities such as Collagen industry and, specifically, to service our growing number of members. Induction Therapy, Cosmetic Tattoo, etc. If you are not already a member, I trust you will join us, after all,
whatever we develop is for your benefit. You can download an We were also the first “beauty industry” organisation that was application at www.apanetwork.com or phone 07 5593 0360 and ask contacted recently by the Australian Tax Office with a view of to speak to me – I will be delighted to help in any way I can.working with them for the purpose of supporting the industry in their
record keeping and meeting with their tax obligations. Over the next Committed to your progress12 to 24 months we will be working closely with the Australia Tax
Office to bring to the industry new information and updates that will Tina Vineysupport, and assist individuals and business with greater efficiency in Chief Executive Officercompliance to their tax obligations (a full report is available on pages
30-31.
CONFERENCES AND NETWORKING
INVOLVEMENT WITH GOVERNMENT AND GLOBAL RESEARCH AND INDUSTRIAL RELATIONS,
REGULATORY BODIESMENTORING AND COACHING
RESOURCE DOCUMENTS
APJ 9
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For sceptics
coverstory
APJ 12
In today's challenging and highly competitive market there is company and all its departments and operations. The committee
something to be said about longevity, and skincare company Mila assesses the way everything works in detail. They also examine how
d'Opiz, with a history of a recently celebrated 75 years, would the exact step-by-step operational procedures are performed on a daily
qualify as a leader. Enjoying a global reputation as a leading basis. Additionally they thoroughly scrutinise every department in the
professional skincare company, Mila d'Opiz is renowned for its organisation, while also examining the hygiene and safety standards
quality and cutting-edge innovations that meet the ever-growing within the laboratories and the assembly lines to ensure they meet with
demand of the modern-day consumer. immaculate conditions.
An ISO 9001 certificate is not a once-and-for-all award, but must be Combining well-researched naturally-derived marine and plant renewed at regular intervals recommended by the certification body, ingredients enhanced in their delivery to a cellular level through usually once every three years. There are no grades of competence cutting edge biotechnology, Mila d'Opiz's formulations continue within ISO 9001: either a company is certified (meaning that it is to break new ground in pushing the level of results to continuous committed to the method and model of quality management described higher levels. in the standard) or it is not. In this respect, ISO 9001 certification
contrasts with measurement-based quality systems.
Taking a closer look at what Mila d'Opiz has achieved over the past 12
months is a credit to the team of Mila d'Opiz Australia. Monique and
Ian Lambert have submerged their efforts to deliver structured You can have the best ingredients, but that does not automatically business development and business mentoring programs to assist their equate to the best end product. Various factors come into play to loyal business owners during this difficult economic downturn. achieve a quality end result product that can deliver what it promises.
These factors may include choice and quality of ingredients, the The support for Mila d'Opiz salons and clinics has seen numerous percentage of the active ingredients, the delivery system, the method advances. Since their launch just over 12 months ago Mila d'Opiz has of formulation, the hygiene standards, temperature and the right developed several initiatives, including a new website, social media processes, are all critical factors. This requires very precise standards tools, marketing and running competitions to support salons to gain and procedures and to achieve this specific systems and skills are and retain clientele. They have also offered in-salon promotions that needed, and this is where ISO 9001 International Certification can are supported with personalised graphic designs to strengthen the provide the quality assurance of the end product.salon's marketing campaigns.
The focus of Mila d'Opiz Australia over the past 12 months is to
empower businesses through training and education, equipping
therapists with advanced knowledge on biochemistry, microbiology
as well as how biotechnology is able to deliver cutting edge
formulations in a more precise and targeted way to achieve significant
skin improvement. Supported by monthly educational programs and In order to acquire the ISO 9001-2008 Certificate, an external webinars training programs, Mila d'Opiz believe that success lies in assessment committee of experts thoroughly examines the whole
WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF ISO 9001
CERTIFICATION? MILA D’OPIZ IN AUSTRALIASo why apply for ISO 9001-2008 Certificate and what does it
mean to the Mila d'Opiz products?
Mila d'Opiz stands for excellence and they have chosen to validate
this by being the first Swiss cosmetic company to qualify for
international certification for their quality standards. Mila-
d'Opiz's unsurpassed formulations are backed by ISO 9001
International Quality Standards since 1994.
The product phenomenon that is gaining global reputation and making its mark on the Australian Professional Market
APJ 13
imparting powerful knowledge that can assist salons achieve better and tooth enamel. The rest, described as mobile Ca2+, is found
treatment outcomes as well as business strategies to help boost throughout body fluids and takes part in various processes, including
productivity. muscle contraction, blood clotting, nerve excitability, intracellular
communication, membrane transport of molecules, hormonal
responses, exocytose, cell fusion adhesion, and growth.
As we age, fat distribution changes and so does bone density and At the heart of Mila d'Opiz’s success are their amazing innovative distribution of bone alters. This is why our features alter on our face formulations that continue to drive results to new levels, delivering and our body structure alters. In skin and other tissue and organ incredible skin improvement. Mila d'Opiz uses some of the world's systems, calcium is a basic mineral and universal messenger. The finest and most potent and nutrient-dense natural active ingredients unique gradient of calcium in the epidermis regulates homeostasis and delivered through the latest advances in biotechnology that has gained regeneration of functional skin barrier. A unique distribution of Mila d'Opiz the reputation as a global leader in the field of anti-ageing mineral concentration within the epidermis regulates skin barrier cosmetic innovations. With an array of specific formulation that regeneration. Extreme environments induce mineral concentration address numerous skin conditions Mila d'Opiz has developed several changes in the epidermis, which results in abnormal barrier formation. complete ranges to simplify targeted treatment delivery and achieve Calcium Red Algae-Complex found in the Mila d'Opiz Phyto-Deluxe advanced results from oily/problematic skin to hormonally Gold was added to prevent and eliminate an abnormal skin barrier, challenged ageing skin through the most advanced wrinkle-fighting which leads to dry, sensitive, scaly, and damaged skin.formulations.
There are now numerous studies that support the wrinkle relaxing
activity of peptides and in particular palmitoyl oligopeptide and
palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7 which is found in Matryxl 3000. These
peptides have been shown to stimulate the dermis to initiate laminins
involved in a healing and repair response that contributes to the
process for the development of collagen I, which is the most abundant
collagen in our dermis. It also supports the development of Collagen
III, produced by young fibroblasts, collagen IV which anchors the
proteins in the deepest layers of the skin, elastin and collagen IV
fibroblasts, XVII and Nidogen-I proteins which decrease as we age. Hormonal imbalance
As a result Matryxl 3000 has been shown to support the rejuvenation Dryness due to a decrease in sebaceous glandular activity
of the dermal structures. Lack of skin tone and elasticity due to deterioration of collagen
and elastic that leads to lines and wrinkles In addition the amino acid L-arginine has been added to this
formulation for its benefit in further supporting collagen synthesis. Included in the ingredient list are apple stem cells, lipids and essential
fatty acids, a variety of specific peptides that target lines and wrinkles Complementing the product is a host of botanical oils, essential fatty
and an array of botanicals. One of their leading actives in this acids and natural plant extracts carefully selected to provide valuable
formulation is Calcium Red Algae-Complex. vitamins, nutrients and antioxidants to optimise results. Also
included is the special complex Phyto 4.7 that comprises a well
balanced combination of unadulterated phytosterols, such as soy
beans, wild yams, cohosh, kudzu vine, pomegranate, angelica
So why is calcium important for the skin? In recent years sinensis extract and Japanese knotweed. This powerful
extensive research has been conducted on the role of combination of plant extracts has more than only
calcium in skin ageing and supporting evidence for its antioxidant benefits; it is an important component to
benefit has contributed to calcium being considered correct early signs of premature skin-ageing due to
as a valuable ingredient in skincare. hormonal changes. As a result of its advanced
formulation, Phyto-Deluxe Gold delivers optimal
results with an immediate change in firmness and Calcium ions in human skin especially in the vitality to the skin. epidermal layer, is important to support the
biological functions that are necessary for
healthy, youthful-looking skin. Calcium is
an essential element for living cells as it
r e g u l a t e s t h e g r o w t h a n d Mila d'Opiz has a professional solution differentiation of skin cells as well as
for every skin type and condition. the formation of the skin’s defence Their formulas make available to the barrier against premature ageing.
professional salon, spa and clinic
over 14 specialty ranges for you In the body, calcium, in the
t o c h o o s e f r o m t h a t form of the ion Ca2+, is the
comprehensively supports most abundant metal ion
professional skin therapists and fifth most abundant
to achieve the results their element in the body,
clients are looking for both on an atomic and
and beyond. weight basis. Over
90% of calcium
resides in bones
PRODUCTS OF UNSURPASSED QUALITY AND
PERFORMANCE
HERE IS JUST A GLIMPSE OF ONE OF MILA D'OPIZ'S
LEADING FORMULATIONS.
PHYTO-DELUXE GOLD RANGE WITH ASTOUNDING
ANTI-AGEING SILVER BULLET INGREDIENTSThe Phyto-Deluxe Gold range comprises superior ingredients to
address the three causes of skin ageing:
EPIDERMAL CALCIUM GRADIENT AND SKIN BARRIER
FUNCTION
SPECIALISTS IN TREATMENT
SOLUTIONS
WHITE SHADE –
MILA CLASSIC –
FINAL TOUCH –
SUNCARE –
MEN’S TREATMENT –
THE MILA D'OPIZ INNOVATIVE RANGES INCLUDE:PHYTO DELUXE GOLD –
LUXURY CAVIAR –
,
FORGING AHEADSKIN REFINE – ,
HYDRO BOOST –
SKIN VITAL –
SKIN CLEAR –
MILA NATURAL –
SWISS WELNESS –
MILA CONCENTRATE COLLECTION –
intensive serums and concentrates to
further fortify skin treatment results
both in the salon and for home use
a special skin
brightening range with the latest
clinically proven botanicals and skin
whitening innovations to reduce
p i g m e n t a t i o n d i s o r d e r s a n d
significantly whiten and brighten the
skin
a complete and
comprehensive niche skin range to
energise and restore skin to its optimum
vitality
the skincare makeup a
complete range of BB products to
hydrate, protect, calm, soothe, provide
anti-oxidant protection as well as
deliver xceptional
foundation colours
a complete
range of total spectrum
sun protection from
UVA/UVB rays as well
as pre-tanning and after
tanning lotions for
u l t i m a t e s k i n
protection
because men need their
own products designed
specifically for their
unique needs.
Additionally, Mila d'Opiz offers specialty innovative products such as the ultimate anti-ageing range for mature
their amazingly effective and extremely popular White Truffle Mask skins
to immediately plump and restore skin hydration for the most rich in oligopeptides and marine nutrients compromised skin conditions.
including caviar and Argan oil to restore skin hydration, vitality
and improve elasticity
to visibly brighten and refresh the skin containing Since the re-launch of Mila d'Opiz in Australia salons and clinics have peptides and Swiss Glacier Water to rebalance the skin and give it enthusiastically embraced the brand, recognising and enjoying its new clarity, smoothness and tone.superior results, affordability and its competitive advantage as a to optimise hydration levels in all skin types, product of choice and this is also due to its quality assured global containing UVA1 filters and UVA to further ensure sun protection reputation. enriched with vitamins A, C and E to replenish and nurture stressed skin and offer superior hydration
to refine, neutralise bacteria and re-balance oily and To find out how Mila d'Opiz can help you achieve both problematic skin
a totally botanical range to soothe and nurture treatment and business success please phone 1300 464 523 delicate and sensitive skin Email: [email protected]
to detoxify, re-mineralise and hydrate the body For more information on Mila d'Opiz empowerment training days a complete range of
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APJ 14
are targeting to achieve on a weekly basis.Currently we are experiencing a mass exit of many beauty businesses
3. Consider appropriate packages. While in a larger salon set packages as trying to sustain and grow a business now requires new business
may be designed, in a smaller business environment the need to design skills and the constant need for up-skilling and professional
specific packages for your individual client may be more practicable.development to remain competitive. Trying to cope with the many
4. Marketing and advertising strategies will need to be cost-effective changes has left many therapists feeling disillusioned, often coming to
and designed to promote your competitive advantage, so real thought the conclusion that their business has become a burden to them as
needs to be considered in how you word your advertising and what hope for the future diminishes. Experiencing such pressures many are
strategies and medium you will select to communicate to your new leaving the industry altogether, while others are downsizing to
target market.become a sole practitioner.
The most important consideration is that while currently being a sole The issue of staffing is also becoming more complex as Fair Work
trader or home-based business may suit you, it’s prudent to consider a requirement can sometimes be difficult to understand and navigate.
long-term plan. What happens when you wish to take a well-deserved Even with help to identify the correct rate of pay is only the beginning,
holiday, can you engage someone to take care of your clients? If the as generating the revenue to pay staff is also an ongoing challenge. As
economy picks up expanding may become a viable option, do you staff come and go, finding the right replacement with the correct
know how to best prepare for that? As a sole practitioner your qualifications, skills and experience is sometimes an almost
business should be a viable asset that you could later sell. Do you have impossible task.
the right infrastructure for this?
Skin Naturelle is a specialist franchise service that offers a full
franchise option for your business success package from day one. This model still has its special needs that are different to running a Also, our Beauty-in-a-Box coaching programs are designed business that you manage and motivate staff to achieve your goals. especially for sole practitioner or home-based business that needs
one-on-one business support, tools and up-skilling today’s standards. 1. With downsizing you will also lose the objective perspective from
They will remove risks and uncertainties and help you achieve a the feedback that you would have gained from staff and colleagues
successful and profitable business from the start. from which you were able to gain valuable insight for future planning.
2. Moving from managing your business and working on the business
to working again in the business is a sift that will restrict your
managerial focus and possibly limit you from being able to see the
business perspective as clearly.
3. Your operational procedures, policies and system will have to be
amended and may need to be rewritten to the needs of a smaller
enterprise.
4. As a sole practitioner or home-based business you may feel lonely
and find it more difficult to make quality decision in a disciplined and
consistent manner.
However, as a business, regardless of your size, you still need to have
the right systems so that you can operate profitably. You still need a
vision and a plan as to which direction you want the business to go.
One of the principle considerations of a sole practitioner or a home
based business is the understanding that what does not grow will
dwindle. Economies move and change and while things are a little
difficult right now it could be a different story in 12 or 24 months’
time. Every business model needs a plan that will support consistent
and steady growth to ensure a positive future. Even a home-based
business can still aspire to engaging staff support at some stage of the
growth cycle of the business, and this is quite reasonable and feasible
if it is planned correctly.
In fact,
successful sole practitioners usually offer the same level of service
that larger salons do, and while on a smaller scale they are of the same
quality standard.
1. Make sure your skills are up to date with all the services you are
providing.
2. As you will not possibly be accessing foot traffic consider the
profitability and financial return per treatment and determine what
services you will need to provide to ensure the necessary income you
THERE ARE TWO POINTS TO CONSIDER HERE:HELP IS AVAILABLE A. Downsizing is not just about cutting back – it's all about
changing the dynamics.
Here are some of the changes you may be experiencing:
Phone Lisa Chelsom
at Skin Naturelle on 07 3824 6406 today, to discuss your needs.
Here are some of the key considerations you
should ensure:
B. Downsizing is not about down-scaling your services –
THE SOLE PRACTITIONER – The challenges in sustaining & growing a businessBy Lisa Chelsom
What really is IPL?So what is SPL?
What really is IPL? Are all IPL devices using the same technology? And why is France Medical advertising that they offer you the best deal
on the market and claim that their range of professional IPL devices is revolutionising the IPL market for beauty salons and skin clinics in
Australia and New Zealand? Let’s have a close look.
1- IPL technology in general
An Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), emits a “polychromatic light, i.e. a multitude of wavelengths (Similar to the rainbow spectrum analogy in the illustration below). The wavelength varies from 580nm to 1200nm for hair removal (with E>O75). IPL technology targets the melanin of the hair, responsible for the hair colour. This pigment will vary from a person to another. Each type of hair requires a specific wavelength to be heated up. The heat is transmitted to everything in contact with the hair and especially the nourishing structure of the hair. Once this structure is destroyed (blood vessel cauterised) this particular hair will not grow back.
Advantages• Easy to use.• Gentle on the skin (not invasive).• Works on more different hair colours (blond, brown and
black).• Suitable for skin phototypes I (very fair skin) to V (dark skin).• Cover a larger skin area per shot (7.5cm2 for E>O75).• Inconvenients• Does not work on red and white hair.• Not suitable for phototype VI.
2- E>075 Technology - SPL vs IPL
IndicationsE>O75 is a unique IPL hair removal device designed for the treatment of blond, brown and dark hair colour on skin phototype I (fair) to V (dark) and tanned skin. It is dedicated to beauty and health professionals only and can be used by trained beauticians who fully understand the use of the IPL technology.
Technology• E>O75 is using the 3rd and latest generation of Intense Pulsed Light technology (also known as SPL for Square Pulsed Light– See graphs below), a unique French technology patented by E-Swin.
• This technology is based on electronically controlled flash spread on a longer time period (called pulse width) at an optimised flash intensity (called fluence). It is more efficient and safer than traditional IPL technologies. E>O75 has a long pulse width (30 to 40 milliseconds), longer than all hair removal competitors.
• E>O75 has patented safety features that keep the flash intensity stable during the whole flash emission. This avoids peaks of energy and reduces the risks of redness, burn and scaring.
• There are no less than 12 safety features in the device to insure its reliability, the E>O75 is registered at the TGA and is certified by a Medical CE. And the manufacturer is also certified ISO 9001 and 13485.
• E>O75’s technology has been followed by a three-year clinical study in France under the control of independent dermatologists.
ProtocoleTo use the E>O75, clients have to shave before the session. In case of waxing, the client will have to wait 4 weeks before doing a treatment. 6 to 8 sessions every six to eight weeks to obtain optimum results. Then, only 1 or 2 touch ups a year for maintenance will be necessary.
ResultsThere are obvious results after the first treatment. The hair will fall out progressively 7 to 21 days after each session.
3- Different IPL technologies
Graph 1 - High energy (in joules per cm2). Very short flash (in milliseconds) - Very hard to adjust the safety settings of the device – 75% of salons still use this 20 years old technology in Australia. Higher risk to burn and be painful. Average results.
Flash intensity in joules per cm2
Pulse width in ms
5 to 10 ms
Graph1:20 year's old technology. About 75% of salons use
this technology (machine mainly made in China)
• Works on brown and dark hair
• Average results• Suitable for skin phototype I to III
• Painful
Flash intensity in joules per cm2
Pulse width in ms
3 to 5 ms
Graph 2:12 years old technology.
About 20% of the market.
• Works on brown and dark hair
• Suitable for skin phototype I to IV
• Moderatepain
Flash intensity in joules per cm2
Pulse width in ms
30 to 38 ms
Graph 3About 5% of the market.
Latest technology.
• Works on blond, brown and dark hair
• Suitable for skin phototype I to V
Graph 2 - Flash intensity better controlled, but no stabilisation (pulse interruption due to limited technology). 12 years old technology safer than previous technology. Average results.
Graph 3 - SPL (Square Pulsed Light) stable flash on longer period. This technology will work on blond hair (with less melanin). Can be used on phototypes IV and V as well as tanned skins, ideal for Asian, Indian and Middle Eastern skins.
More information visit www.programeo.com.au or call (07) 3151 1543
BUSINESS NEWSBUSINESS NEWSBusiness & Legislation, New Tools and Research Outcomes
For example, if you sent a text message this PHONE PHOBIA: THE can be effective only if it is very short. The
longer the text message, the more likely the LATEST GEN-Y DISEASE receiver will ignore it. But texts are great for
Every generation has its favourites when it comes quick appointment reminders. The bottom
to communication, but a recent survey revealed line is the Y-Gens feel more at home with
that Gen-Ys tend to avoid picking up a phone to electronic communication. They find this
make a call because they are far more comfortable more friendly, less confronting and
with other communication devices. Surely the intrusive. Let's face it, you don't need to
ability to make a phone call is a key requirement of worry about being rejected if you send a
any job apparently not if you're a twenty- quick text or email.
something.
However, there are times when a phone call
While certain generations think of the phone as a is still the most appropriate and even
source of friendly interaction, many Gen-Ys see an preferable way to get your message across,
old fashioned phone call as intrusive. versus texting or emailing. Especially when dealing with baby
boomers, they love the courtesy of a reminder call before an
“You're essentially charging into someone's home or office and appointment or even for someone to check up that their treatment
demanding they talk to you right now. Text is much cleaner. It's all appointment went well and they were happy with the results.
there in black and white and people can read it at their leisure,” they
argue. As with everything, when a system is overused it loses its novelty. A
recent study revealed that often less than 10% of emails are opened
It's also worth exploring the perspective of a Gen Xer, who straddles when sending out marketing information. This is because this method
the pre-digital and digital eras. Amber Daines, director of PR and of communication is now exploited and it has lost its novelty.
media training agency Bespoke Communications, says since she
began working in the media sector more than 16 years ago the You may be surprised to learn that “snail mail” invitations for clients
communication landscape has changed. She revealed her Gen Y staff to attend an event are gaining popularity again. It has now become the
won't pick up the phone to make calls. So what is happening? Are they best way to stand out over an e-invite and hope it gets read.
lazy? Timid? Or have things changed so much that the phone is now
obsolete? Indeed, although it can appear otherwise, ultimately it's often quicker
and simpler to ring someone up. In the end it's all about surveying
The common consensus is that the choice of communication method what your clients prefer and then use the mechanism that is the most
depends on the complexity of the information needed to be sent. popular. However, investigating is a worthwhile exercise because as
with everything, times are changing.
DOORS OPEN TO A STEADY
GROWTH IN SMALL BUSINESSAn Australian Bureau of Statistics publication, Counts of
Australian Businesses, including Entries and Exits, revealed
this week that the number of actively trading businesses
increased by 8868 (0.4 per cent) between 2010-11 and 2011-12.
It marks the third consecutive year of rises in the count of
Australian businesses. And the vast majority (96 per cent) of
Australian businesses in June 2012 were small businesses.
The publication also revealed that the entry rate (13.5 per cent)
of businesses was higher than the exit rate (13.1 per cent),
resulting in an increase in the overall number of businesses.
APJ 18
Karen Connaughton, ABS director of national tax data and business Cote also pointed out that 95.9 per cent of Australian businesses had
demography, said Australian Business Counts show there were fewer than 20 employees in 2011-12 and in terms of turnover, 93.9 per
2,141,280 actively trading businesses in Australia at June 2012. cent turned over less than $2 million. Small businesses often look to
“Growth was due to an increase in new business registrations, as well larger operators for a sign of things to come, and a new report reveals
as a decline in the exit rate of businesses,” she said. optimism among many.
The largest number of Australian businesses were in the construction One of the key areas that is hindering business growth has been slow
industry (16.2 per cent), followed by professional, scientific and payment of invoices. Many are waiting the average 60 days to have
technical services (11.7 per cent) and rental, hiring and real estate invoices paid, up three days on the previous quarter. Waiting on
services (10.5 per cent). payments weighs heavily on business confidence, Cote said.
“Of the States, the ACT, Victoria, Northern Territory and NSW all “Many businesses are delaying decisions to invest in their business or
recorded an increase in business numbers. Queensland, Tasmania and hire new staff, and that's why we expect a rise in the jobless rate, unless
Western Australia all recorded a decrease in business numbers, while we can breathe more life into the small business sector.
in South Australia they remained relatively steady,” Ms Connaughton
said. “Another cut in interest rates from the Reserve Bank would help boost
business and consumer sentiment and reduce credit costs for business,
Business survival rates were also recorded by the ABS. Of the which in turn may help to encourage small business sentiment.”
2,071,360 small businesses operating in June 2008, 84.6 per cent were
still around in June 2009, 75.1 per cent in June 2010, 67.9 per cent in In the beauty industry APAN's statistics indicate a slight increase in
June 2011 and 61.8 per cent in June 2012. business growth and profitability since 2011. The survey has revealed
the key factors for survival in the beauty industry has been better
ABS spokesman Warren Cote said business counts have increased for economic management, but more importantly, the introduction of new
three consecutive years. “The number of Australian businesses with innovative treatments, products and services. Statistics also
fewer than 20 employees that grew in 2011-12 in terms of confirmed that evolving and constantly improving salons have
employment size range increased by around 3.3 per cent, compared continued to experience steady growth, even in this economic climate.
with 2010-11. This has fuelled APAN's commitment to their conference and
educational program.
“Also, the number of Australian businesses with fewer than 20 Read more: http://www.smh.com.au/small-business/managing/doors-open-
to-confident-era-20130524-2k61j.html#ixzz2UY3KpGPAemployees that shrank [moved down the employment size range] in
2012 decreased by approximately 2.1 per cent compared with 2011.”
"The Government will also address other areas of concern, including
marketing funds and disclosure and will seek to provide certainty by
accepting in principle that once implemented, another review of the
sector will not occur for five more years.”
The Government appointed Alan Wein to review the Code in January
to make recommendations to ensure the franchising sector was
operating in the best interests of its participants as a whole.
It was important to clarify the obligations franchisors and franchisees
had under the Franchising Code of Conduct and to ensure the courts
and the Australian Competition and Consumer Commission had the
appropriate powers to deal with rogue operators who abused their
power in a franchising relationship.
Franchise Council of Australia general manager Kym De Britt said on
a whole the Federal Government was very supportive of the whole
process.
GOVERNMENT STRENGTHENING “It was an extremely consultative process and it included a lot of
stakeholders,” he said.FRANCHISING SECTOR WITH “One of the points made clear in the forward-looking paper was that NEW CODEhalf of the recommendations will be ongoing consultation, which is
The Federal Government plans on improving Australia's franchising what they have indicated to us in order to assess the full impact of any
sector in response to the 2013 Independent Review of the Franchising implantation. The Government will move to implement its response
Code of Conduct.through the Parliament as soon as practically possible.
Releasing the Government's response, the Minister for Small “Overall the FCA was happy with the process. We believe Alan Wein
Business, Gary Gray said the Code would deliver better outcomes and was very experienced and did a very thorough review. Not only did the
provide certainty for franchisers and franchisees.Government and a number of its departments get involved, but the
recommendations are a clear indication they listened to stakeholders "The Government will move to introduce into the Code an obligation
and we were pretty satisfied with the recommendations,” De Britt to act in good faith, and to include civil pecuniary penalties for
said.breaches of the Code," he said.
APJ 19
BUSINESS OWNER SPEAKS OUT
AFTER BEING TARGETED BY
FAIR WORK OMBUDSMAN FOR
ALLEGED UNDERPAYMENTS was in court yesterday and it was adjourned until November 18, 2013.
At the recent APAN conference in Adelaide Michael Bishop lawyer The FWO is seeking a court-ordered back-payment and says the and senior partner of Pointon Partner Lawyers presented a lecture on significant sum of money involved and the failure to rectify the Contracts versus Wages and several case studies where someone was underpayments led to the Ombudsman pursuing legal action. M+K paid as a contractor but in later years and as a result of a dispute the Lawyers partner Andrew Douglas stated if the Ombudsman is seeking Fair Work Ombudsman determined that the contractor in fact back-payment and not penalties, it generally means the business has qualified as an employee and the courts requested that the departing been cooperating with the investigation, but failure to rectify the employee be awarded thousands of dollar in compensation. Ensuring alleged underpayments means legal action was likely.correct status of employment and rate of pay is essential to avoid
complications down the track. APAN works closely with the support “You can almost always avoid penalties if you immediately agree to of Pointon Partners to ensure businesses are paying their staff the the back-payment, but if the FWO sees it as a course of deliberate correct pay as mistakes can prove very costly, as this article conduct or if you unreasonably declined to back-pay the employee, demonstrates.then they will pursue legal action,” he says. Douglas says in the past
few years there have been a number of security companies caught by The Fair Work Ombudsman has launched legal action against a the FWO.regional Queensland security business over an alleged $50,000
underpayment, but the employer says the security officer was “The security industry is an industry where there is high casualisation “overpaid”.and these industries have a huge risk of underpayment because the
nature of the work is transient. When there are transient people Rodney Harris, the owner-manager of Bundaberg-based security working, there are opportunities for people to pay workers in cash,” he business RPO Security, is facing court alongside his private business says.Bundaberg Security, for allegedly underpaying a casual employee a
total of $51,733 between 2007 and 2010. This is the fourth security Earlier this month Secom Australia was fined $66,000 for company to be targeted by FWO this year, as it continues its underpaying 19 employees $21,548, and the judge said ignorance of crackdown on the casualised industry.an employer's obligation was “no excuse” for underpaying an
employee. In May the FWO took action against North State Security The FWO alleges the employee, aged in his 30s, was paid a flat rate of in central Victoria, claiming it underpaid four former employees $900 a fortnight for work including security patrols, escorting people nearly $90,000 between 2006 and 2011.to cars and taking cash to a bank safe. This supposedly resulted in
underpayment of the employee's minimum hourly rates, casual Douglas says if an employer is unsure of their obligations they should loadings, night shift allowance and penalty rates for Sundays, public consult the FWO website or contact their local accountant or lawyer. holidays and overtime work.“Even with this information it's still a complex area to determine what
people are going to get paid. Organisations like VECCI have a wage Representing Harris, solicitor Geoff Ebert of Finemore Walters and hotline, but people can still get it wrong because it's just so complex. Story stated the FWO claims will be “defended strenuously”. “Mr “The legislation needs to be made simpler,” he says.Harris and RPO have filed a defence to the claim saying no money is http://www.smartcompany.com.auowed to the employee and, on the basis of the evidence, he was
actually overpaid $12,000 under the award rate,” he says. The case
company behind FORMER NEIGHBOURS STAR Neighbours, and
management for TO SUE FOR DISCRIMINATION Kym Valentine,
but both declined – A LESSON FOR SMALL to comment.
BUSINESS ON SICK LEAVE V a l e n t i n e ' s
m a n a g e m e n t Former Neighbours actress Kym Valentine is suing the referred to a story producers of the show for alleged "pain, hurt, suffering and in Fairfax which humiliation", as a result of sex and disability discrimination states Valentine and the case has plenty to teach SMEs.h a s a c c u s e d
Fremantle Media The controversy raises issues regarding the level of Australia, its legal responsibility employers have for sick employees, but legal
director, Steven Rosser, and former Neighbours producers Susan experts say employers are within their legal rights to terminate an Bower and Neil Kingston of failing to provide "a working employee on a fixed-term contract after three months if they can't environment that was safe".meet the requirements of their job.
She also claims they breached "the relationship of trust and SmartCompany contacted both Fremantle Media, the production
APJ 20
those in metropolitan areas. Overall, 40% of the women surveyed also
said they worked both Saturdays and Sundays, while 36% worked
seven days a week.
“It's always hard when you are a small business owner trying to bring
in an income as well as running the business, but because the majority
of women are in service-based industries they can't obtain grants,
contracts from industry and government, and furthermore, women by
nature tend to give out a lot more than they should, meaning they
always care about others before themselves,” an AWCCI spokesman
revealed.
Another survey revealed that many women start a business without an
exit plan and without enough funds. This is problematic for the
community and the economy, both in the short and long term, because
money changes everything.
Research from AWCCI shows the number of females running their
own business has increased by 8.9% in the past five years, while the
number of males running a business has dropped by 3.7% in the same WOMEN BUSINESS OWNERS NOT period.
PAYING THEMSELVES A WAGE, Only a very small percentage (37%) of respondents believed they
were paying themselves a market wage, when they actually paying RESEARCH REVEALSthemselves a wage at all.
Research by the Australian Women Chamber of Commerce and
Industry has revealed the majority of women small business owners "It's harming everybody,” the researchers said. “If you look at the big
do not pay themselves a wage.picture, women have the power of the purse and between 80-90% of
consumer decisions are being made by women. If we continue to see The survey results released yesterday from an AWCCI study of 3000
this trend of women leaving the corporate environment and female respondents showed 50% of the businesses required more
continuing to not pay themselves a wage, they won't be able to spend.”capital to grow.
It was also revealed that women who are not paying themselves a It also found a large majority of women start a business with under
wage are also not receiving super, and this will have implications upon $5000, with just under 70% using personal savings, and 51% of
their ability to retire comfortably.women did not pay themselves a wage.
The survey also found that women are not valuing their work as much Women in rural areas were less likely to pay themselves a wage than
as they should.
confidence". Near the end of her time at Neighbours Valentine Douglas says it's "critical" for employers to diligently ensure all
reportedly suffered a variety of health problems tracing back to 2008 workers are fit to attend work each day, or else they should be sent
when she contracted pneumonia. As a result of the pneumonia, home at risk of a law suit. If work was found to be a substantial cause
Valentine suffered a collapsed lung. of injury or stress to the employee, for example if the worker turned up
to work depressed and their condition got worse, then this would be
The show's producer, Bower, then insisted she take a one-month break grounds for a possible compensable injury claim. If you're not fit
from the show and Michala Banas was cast in her absence. enough to work, you can't attend. Legally, this is what an employer
must enforce, he says.
In March 2011, Valentine took indefinite leave to treat what was
believed to be depression. In Valentine’s position, where her contract was not ongoing, as it had
an expiration date, legally she could have been terminated after three
Throughout this time Bower had publicly supported Valentine, telling months of not being able to adequately perform her role.
the Herald Sun in April 2011 the network wished her "all the best with
her recovery" and said they'd "continue to provide support where If there is no contract which requires the continuity of work, then after
appropriate". three months an employer can terminate the employment if they've
appropriately tried to support the employee and they can't do the
Valentine's contract had expired at the end of 2011 and it was not inherent requirements.
renewed. Now, the report claims Valentine is seeking to be rehired in
the role. Bower tells Fairfax he was restricted in his actions. "Kymmy "There are some complications which sit around this in anti-
was just too ill to return to do the workload required to finish the discrimination law, but if the employer has offered all reasonable
episode in time for our contracted delivery date." adjustments and there is no continued requirement of work, then their
contract can be ceased," he says.
M+K Lawyers partner Andrew Douglas stated employers have a
responsibility to look after the health of their employees. "If Kym Douglas says the situation is different if the employee is on an ongoing
Valentine, being a normal employee, reported to work and was not fit contract, and the laws vary State-by-State.http://www.smartcompany.com.au and healthy enough to perform her role, the employer could refuse to
accept that offer to work," he says.
APJ 21
APJ 22
I AM ALWAYS WORKING ON MOTIVATING MY STAFF AND
TAKING CARE OF OTHERS, BUT HOW CAN I MOTIVATE
MYSELF AND HOW CAN I MEASURE HOW I AM DOING AS A
LEADER. CAN YOU GIVE ME ANY RECOMMENDATIONS?
DO A SIX-MONTH SELF-APPRAISALMeanwhile here are some brand-building tips that can help you,
especially when you have a low budget:
1. BE AUTHENTIC IN DEVELOPING YOUR IDENTIFY –
2. CREATE MULTIPLE CHANNELS FOR COMMUNICATIONS –
First, draw up these five lists. Ask yourself and document down:
3. BUILD RELATIONSHIPS –
4. PARTNER WITH YOUR SUPPLIER –
5. MAKE SURE YOUR MARKETING ACTIVITIES ARE MEASURABLE –
I AM STARTING MY OWN BUSINESS AND WANT SOME
SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO GAIN NEW CLIENTS AS THAT IS
PERHAPS THE MOST DAUNTING ISSUE THAT I AM FACED
WITH. DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS?
I hear you loud and clear. As they say, it can be lonely at the top! When you are an unknown entity, brand building is your main focus and However, psychologist Eva Ash has some great advice that the best way to advertising is essential and will help you attract clients to you for the first motivate yourself is through a self-appraisal of the past six months versus time, but it won't help you to keep getting them back. Once you get them the next six months. in, your aim should be to offer them the kind of service they will value and
want to come back to. Trust that's earnt through quality results and There is a lot of discussion in psychology about extrinsic and intrinsic exceptional service, followed by word-of-mouth, is what will take your motivators, and most of us tend to look outside of ourselves for validation business to the next level, so planning what your point of difference will be of what we do as we would with our employees – we reward them. So as is worth every minute.managers and people striving to do our best, how do we manage to shift
our focus away from those sometimes distracting extrinsic rewards and This is something that I can speak on from experience. Initially it takes enhance the effect of the intrinsic ones? hard work, but once you build a reputation, referrals with be one of the key
ways that your business will grow.
Like most things – the first step is to increase awareness. The aim is to
increase your self-awareness of accomplishments and progress over six Develop a logo that months, which can really be lost in a world of to-dos (instead of have-
reflects who you are and what you are offering. Put some thought into this dones). The constant drive towards improving and fixing often causes us and interact with an experienced designer who can create something you to lose sight of what we have actually managed to achieve. This is where can be proud of and that can instantly identify you from your competition.the six-month self-appraisal can work wonders.
Create
platforms for potential clients to engage with you. Purchase a database and
design e-newsletters that you can send out. With your website you can start 1. What did I plan to achieve in the past six months?with a single landing page until you can afford something more elaborate. 2. What did I actually achieve in the past six months?Create a Facebook page, look at gift vouchers that you can network with 3. What did I learn in the past six months?neighboring businesses, hairdressers, florist, restaurants, coffee shops. 4. What do I want to achieve in the next six months?And speak at fundraising events, go to business breakfasts and sponsor a 5. What rewards do I give myself for what I have achieved now and also gift or ask to be included as a speaker. Look at the whole issue of at the end of the next six months?community and engage with them in a positive way.
When you do get clients gain from their We usually forget a very important step of planning: celebration. Far too feedback. Check what is important to them and make the necessary often people use hard work as a reward. Although achieving job adjustment to ensure you meet their needs.satisfaction and having a strong work ethic are great attributes, it's so
Seek the help of your product important to stop occasionally and to pat yourself on the back – away from supplier and engage them as much as possible in the process of promotions work. Find something you really enjoy, congratulate yourself and give and client rewards.yourself a treat that you really deserve.
Keep
tabs on where your traffic is coming from and utilise that tactic to your full Build habits that give you personal perspective as well as the motivation to advantage. That will mean that when you gain new clients you always ask create self-directed change in your life. It's a simple process – it shouldn't them where they have heard about you. There is nothing worse than take more than a few minutes to go through this listing process, but it is spending money where there is no return.powerful in that it gives you a platform to grow and achieve.
However, my ultimate advice for success is “never stop learning”. New
ideas, motivation and innovation are birthed from seeds of knowledge and
information.
If you require any business advice please phone APAN on 07 5593 0360 or Obviously, advertising is a key and necessary ingredient in all businesses
marketing strategies, however, it shouldn't be relied upon as the main email: [email protected] to discuss your needs with an expert. NOTE:
These services are available for free ONLY TO APAN FINANCIAL MEMBERS. reason why clients chose to come to you, because clients would be drawn
to return to you because of your reputation and not because of your mass Non-members can choose to either join or receive this service at a marketing, and keeping clients is where business growth will happen for consultancy fee.you.
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AUSTRALIAN AESTHETICS
CONFERENCES
APAN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCEBuilding Expertise and Reputation
thSunday 27 October. 8am – 5pmRACV Royal Pines Resort I Ross Street I Benowa Gold Coast QLDGOLD COAST
Register today: Members $149 Non-members $169 | Phone 07 55930360 or to register on-line visit www.apanetwork.com
If you are NRMA or RACV Member additional discounts will apply. To book your accommodation phone Reservations at the Royal Pines Resort 1800 886 880 and quote your APAN Code 2467505.
Gain the competitive advantage and see your profits growThis conference program will introduce new business experts and topics never before presented. It guarantees to give you powerful knowledge and skills to help you reach
your peak as a professional and as a successful business owner.
SIX OUTSTANDING SEMINAR PROGRAMS
“I have attended many conference events, but the calibre of information presented at APAN's Conferences offered me the best industry insight, serious education and business strategies. Their programs offer the perfect balance of topics to help me set my direction on a more focused course to reach my goals with greater conference. This program was the best value for money.”
Jane Taylor, Qld
This is a fully catered and Certified Professional Development Program
APJ 24
Each APAN conference has its own theme and focus and our third
The latest industry statistics that will influence your futureevent for 2013 is no different. The APAN Australian Aesthetic Learn how to communicate in a way that will gain you clientsConference will be held at the Royal Pines Resort, Gold Coast
th Identify ways to secure your business's futureQueensland on Sunday 27 October and will feature the theme Learn the most effective way to establish a professional network
As we approach the end of 2013 we will be entering one of the
busiest periods of the year. This conference program promises to
deliver great education and business strategies to help you 10-10.45amincrease your confidence and gain the tools to ensure your reach
How Does Skincare Change The and exceed your targets in the coming months. Speakers have
been carefully selected to ensure you receive a balanced, cross Inner Workings Of Skin Cells?section of topics from technical, professional as well as business Terry Everitt – Master Aesthetics educational information. EducatorWe guarantee you will gain amazing information and leave The cell wall is an effective barrier yet there are ways energised and motivated to implement new cutting-edge strategies through it – it just depends what you are using to get that will help you reach your goals with greater ease. the job done. Ingredients need to be in a particular form to accomplish
our goals of intercellular travel. Stem cells and peptides are the current
buzz, but is it is all buzz and no action?
In this intriguing seminar, Terry will relate the science behind many of
the marketing claims made about products. Do we really get products
into the cell or are they working around the cell? Terry is a master
educator coming from a scientific viewpoint and if you have had the
pleasure of attending one of his lectures, you know how much 8.30-9.30am
information he has to impart. From a Bachelor Degree in Health Science How to develop recognition and (Aesthetics) to a Master's Degree in Education and a whole lot more;
Terry takes learning to a higher level each time. We are delighted that he reputation and become a magnet for has agreed to speak at the Gold Coast event so you can have the benefit of consumersover 20 years of experience and a totally non-biased viewpoint.
Tina Viney – APAN CEO While business and sales strategies aim to help
Understanding the transport mechanisms of ingredients through the you grow your profits and increase your
epidermisrevenue, much of your success will also hinge on what it is you are
Discover how some ingredients manage to cross the cell wallactually trying to sell to your clients. Global advances in Define and discern words like syndets, combars, cathelicidins, technology and new innovations that are reaching our shores are deferins and how they work on and in the skinshaping the aesthetic industry landscape, allowing it now to offer Know what you need to get the fibroblast cells working for effective products and services that can deliver significantly better results dermal healththan previously thought possible through skilled and well-qualified
practitioners. Meanwhile, social media and the Internet are
educating consumers on the numerous options available to them, so
we now have more sophisticated buyers who are more discerning
and specific in their expectations. Are you well positioned to meet 11.15-12.00 noon
these expectations and have you identified your niche as a The Top Secrets Of Highly Successful practitioner to secure your position in this multi-billion-dollar
industry? Salons And ClinicsIn this lecture Tina Viney will present the latest industry statistics on Caroline Nelson – Director of what consumers are looking for and how they are changing in their
Nelson Beauty Business Managementexpectations. She will also discuss the most in-demand treatments
If you are serious about growing your bottom line and how our communication language regarding how we present
then this seminar will give you all the answers you these treatments needs to change if we are to capture and retain
are looking for. Caroline is a highly successful business coach who those clients that are truly seeking the best.
understands what it takes to improve profitability, triple sales figures,
achieve financial security, and ultimately gain the life you have always
At this seminar you will learn:
Building Expertise and Reputation.
Time:
Topic:
Speaker:
Time:
Topic:
SPEAKER: At this seminar you will learn:
Time:
Topic:
Speaker:
Networking break 9.30 – 10.00am
CONFERENCE PROGRAM AND
SPEAKERSREGISTRATION 8.00AM
Morning tea and Networking break 10.45 – 11.15am
APAN AUSTRALIAN AESTHETIC CONFERENCEBuilding Expertise and Reputation
th Sunday 27 October. 8am – 5pmRACV Royal Pines Resort Ross Street Benowa I Gold Coast Qld
GOLD COAST
wanted. She has helped hundreds of clinics, salons and spas that are manage with greater confidence in these economic times and, most
committed to achieving outstanding success to reach amazing importantly, how to become more profitable in business.
growth even during difficult economic times. In her characteristic,
no-nonsense approach, Caroline will step you through the process Learn what KPIs are and how to use them in your business, saving of how to achieve business growth and increased profitability. you time and money
The secrets of marketing in this new business world and how to The most effective ways of planning and executing better maximise your invested dollarsbusiness management How to understand your financial reports and what they are telling How to achieve triple figures through winning strategies in you about your businesscross-selling and retail conversion How to measure your staff and reward them for improved sales and What some of the most successful salons are doing to achieve results achieved winning results
The best ways to get your staff to improve their sales
productivity
3.30pm-4.15pm
Using Your Team's Personality
Traits To Drive Your Business Further12.30-1.15pmJayne Jennings and Valerie Employing Staff And The Law
McDougall – Directors of the Pink Shoe Michael Bishop – Director of Power Time Management SystemPointon Partners LawyersNo, it's not about being Miss Congeniality! This Employing staff has many regulatory session introduces a breakthrough approach to get the requirements and obligations under the best out of you and your team, and consequently your FairWork Act. Understanding these business. Jayne and Val will reveal a unique way for requirements and implementing the appropriate documentation you to tap into your personality traits and habits, will safeguard you from the stress and disruptions of future allowing you to work smarter, not harder.misunderstandings and potential unfair dismissal claims. Pointon Their system is based on international and national Partner Lawyers is considered one of the most credible law firms in research into women business owners and work/life Australia and specialise in business law, industrial relations and
balance. Be prepared to challenge your current thinking about time trademarks. Michael Bishop is a senior lawyer with Pointon management and gain greater insight about yourself. You will learn Partners Lawyers and has extensive experience with unfair practical strategies to improve your performance, productivity and avoid dismissal claims. In this lecture he will demystify the law and offer overwhelm and stress that undermines many business owners. This some valuable recommendations on how a business can ensure they session takes the often-dry “time management” subject and makes it fun meet with the necessary requirements and achieve peace of mind. and relevant to you at an individual level.
The law simplifiedHow to understand your strengths and how to use them to improve How to safeguard your business from unfair dismissal claimsyour productivityWhen and how to establish clear communication with your staffIdentify 'time demons' that sabotage your successUnderstanding your options and obligationsPractical strategies you can start tomorrow to save time and achieve
more
Discover how to increase your team's effectiveness and productivity
2.15pm-3.00pm
Why Business Success is a The Royal Pines Resort is a magnificent 5-star resort located just 12
minutes drive from the beaches of Surfers Paradise, and five minutes Formula and how To use it in your from the Gold Coast/Brisbane freeway. It is well known for its
businessspectacular golf course, which is home to the ANZ Ladies Masters golf
Ian McManus – Managing tournament.Accommodation at the resort comprises of 330 rooms and
Director of My Business Manager suites, which are furnished with luxury decor and offer panoramic views
to the gardens, hinterland or Gold Coast CBD. The resort offers a great Business is changing dramatically, yet the choice of dining venues, where you can enjoy a wide variety of delicious principles remain the same. Ian MacManus has over 30 years Japanese and Asian cuisine. It also features Tennis and Health Club business experience and knows firsthand that building a successful along with a newly appointed Day Spa. Previously managed by Crowne and profitable business is about following a basic formula. A Plaza the resort is now managed by the RACV. formula that if you are willing to follow will have your business
skyrocketing. We are delighted that Ian has accepted to sharing this
formula and other key strategies that have allowed him to win in the
game of business.
From IT Manager of Pfizer Pharmaceuticals, to multiple business
owner, retired at 40, and now building a global business, Ian has
experienced both Corporate and the SME world in all its glories. Ian
founded the Gold Coast Small Business Network and has 250+
business owners helping each other to be successful. Ian also runs
Business Workshops to show people how to build their cashflow,
At this seminar you will learn:
At this seminar you will learn:
Time:
Topic:
Time: Speakers: Topic:
Speaker:
At this seminar you will learn:At this seminar you will learn:
Time:
Topic:
Speaker:
3.00 – 3.30pm Networking break
Networking break 12.00– 12.30pm
Lunch Break and Networking 1.15-2.15pm
To book your accommodation phone Reservations at the
Royal Pines Resort 1800 886 880 and quote your APAN Code
2467505. If you are an NRMA or RACV Member additional
discounts will apply. To book for the Conference Phone 07
5593 0360 or visit www.apanetwork.com and complete an
application on-line (see page 23 for further details).
ABOUT THE ROYAL PINES RESORT
APJ 25
APJ 26
Recently representatives of the Australian Tax Office in Canberra met 2. Compliance
with APAN to discuss a new program developed exclusively to assist
businesses and individuals in the Hair and Beauty Industry to meet The ATO will start with a range of initiatives that will provide help and
their tax obligations. During the meeting statistics were presented by assistance to get businesses that have not lodged a tax return to do so.
the Tax Office that indicated their concerns with a growing number of During this phase they will work closely with industry bodies such as
businesses in relations to their taxation obligations. As a result the APAN, tax practitioners and businesses to understand how the
beauty industry is considered as one of their targeted industries. industry works and how they can be supported through a level playing
field. They will provide tailored information and tools to help
In 2013-2014 the Australian Tax Office has started a program where businesses self-assess and report their tax and superannuation
they will be working with industry bodies to gain their assistance in obligations and with small businesses that are struggling to meet their
helping educate the industry in ways to ensure they meet with their tax obligations, taking into account their specific circumstances.
obligations.
During the first year some businesses may be selected for review as
part of the ATO normal risk modelling. In the second and subsequent
years their “compliance” activities will focus on those who have been From the ATO risk profiling of a range of industries the hair and
given the opportunity to change their behaviour. Administrative beauty industry ranked among the top 10 industries of having a high
penalties and prosecutions may result from these reviews.risk of cash-economy participation and therefore businesses in the
industry are at a higher risk of a tax audit review. The industry was
also identified as having high rates of non-lodgement behaviour and As of August 2013 a first letter will be sent out to members of the hair tax-evasion reports received from the community in regard to omitted and beauty industry letting them know of a new website created for cash income.them to help make it easier to do their taxes.
A program will be conducted over two to three years that will be Stressing the importance of proper record keeping to make it comprised of two parts:easier to determine tax obligations1. Help and education
WHY THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY?
WHEN WILL THE PROGRAM START?
WHAT'S INVOLVED WITH THE PROGRAMThe key areas of support will be to assist in:
Australian Tax Office launches new program
Aimed at the Beauty Industry By Tina Viney
taxmatters
APJ 27
KEY HAIR & BEAUTY
INDUSTRY FIGURES
201142,566 businesses within the
industry
– of those 40,203 have
active ABN registration
– of these 17,432 with active
GST registration (42%)
BUSINESS BY STATEWA: 4,242
NT: 234
SA: 3,237
QLD: 8,862
NSW: 14,236
ACT: 573
VIC: 10,708
TAS: 841
WA 4,242 businesses,
2,206 (52%) GST registered
NT 232 businesses,
130 (56%) GST registered
SA 3,237 businesses,
1,629 (50%) GST registered
QLD 8,862 businesses,
4,579 (52%) GST registered
NSW 14,236 businesses,
8,039 (56%) GST registered
ACT 573 businesses,
356 (62%) GST registered
VIC 10,778 businesses,
5,600 (52%) GST registered
TAS 841 businesses,
435 (52%) GST registered
INDUSTRY
PERFORMANCE 2,140 businesses have
three or more income tax
returns outstanding
27,158 taxpayers within
this industry lodged their
2012 income tax return
27% of these reported
income greater than
$75,000
3 4 , 6 8 9 b u s i n e s s e s
appear to be getting their
tax right, however,
18.5% of businesses
within the industry are
ra ted as h igh r i sk
according to the ATO
omitted income models
2 , 2 6 4 b u s i n e s s e s
reporting >4% outside
key benchmark ratio.
WHAT DOES ALL THIS MEAN TO YOU?
APAN'S POSITION
Know when to register for GST and how to manage it
Understand why you need to lodge your activity statement and income tax return
Know the difference between an employee and a contractor and what that means to your business
Compare your business to others using the small business benchmarks
To assist the industry this new dedicated website will be developed that will provide information and advice
to assist businesses with compliance issues. The website, which will be developed exclusively for the hair
and beauty industry will offer a variety of tools to help businesses. Additionally, a phone line, 13 28 66, will
allow you to access any advice between 8.00am and 6.00pm Monday to Friday.
If we were to simplify all this and determine what it means it would be this:
The ATO is aware that there are a lot of discrepancies and non-compliance in the hair and beauty industry
and they are attempting to put forward tools and recommendations as well as liaise with industry bodies and
associations to gain the support in getting the word out there. As I have said, the first letter will go out in
August and the second early next year. The objective of these letters is to inform the industry of their
obligations and direct them to where they can gain the right tools to further understand what is required of
them. However, as indicated above, the second phase will be the “compliance” phase – in essence what that
means is that they will then crack-down on businesses and implement penalties with those who have not
complied, as they will no longer have any excuse of not knowing.
Our role in all of this is to assist the ATO to better understand the pressures and dynamics of our industry.
Many therapists work long hours and then come home to pick up duties as mothers, wives or partners.
Becoming familiar with the ATO's website would probably be the last priority on their mind. While this
may be the case, responsibilities are still responsibilities, and our best recommendation for those in such a
predicament is to employ a competent bookkeeper a couple of hours a week to ensure that their record
keeping is kept up-to-date in order to eliminate the chances of nasty surprises and more stress further down
the track.
In the next issue of APJ we will look at financial benchmarking as determined by the ATO, however, suffice
to say that this is a serious strategic plan to which the ATO is committed, so when you receive their letter
please take their advice seriously. We will continue to keep you informed of developments, meanwhile
please take a look at State by State statistics below that have led to the reason for this strategy, as our industry
has been identified as having a high rate of non-lodgement of tax returns. As I always say about
professional ethics – a bad reputation does not just affect the individual, but also has a ripple effect on the
industry as a whole.
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productperformers
APJ 28
Often the success of a product formulation has as its driving force not and symposiums around the world, as well as is regularly interviewed
just a company, but also a passionate individual who would not stop on television programs.
short of what they considered still needed improvement. This is the
story of Christina Miriam Zehavi, president and founder of Christina Regardless of her busy schedule, her passion still lies in personally
Cosmeceuticals. treating skin conditions, and so she also remains active in her role as a
hands-on aesthetician as well as a sought after educator. To add to her
Heralded as a pioneer in her field, she has travelled the globe working already remarkable résumé, Christina has for the past 21 years been
with some of the most prominent dermatologists and product the Editor in Chief of the Israeli Edition of Les Nouvelles Esthetiques.
formulators. She was one of the first aestheticians to work with Christina Zehavi's energy seems to know no bounds and is recognised
chemical peels and retinoic acid and went on to successfully create globally as a positive influence throughout all her endeavours.
and develop her own signature range of treatments and products,
Christina Cosmeceuticals, that have now enjoyed success for over 30 In a recent interview conducted by Matoyla Kollaras, we were
years. delighted to gain some insight into her amazing professional life and
achievements.
As a paramedical aesthetician Christina Miriam Zehavi had extensive
experience in the treatment of the most challenging skin conditions
and disorders such as severe burns, war-trauma victims and acne
scarring. She has and continues to work with leaders in the field of
anti-ageing medicine and plastic surgery.
With this vast knowledge behind her, Christina understood the need
for products that provided visible and measurable results, without
compromising or damaging the skin's health.
In the 1960s I was privileged to work in hospitals in Eager to bring her vision to life, Christina started developing and Buenos Aires (Argentina), USA and Tel Aviv (Israel) with some of the manufacturing unique products that provided professional solutions most respected doctors in the field of gerontology, plus plastic and for a wide range of skin conditions and problems due to both internal reconstructive surgery. We were working on patients with severe post- and external/environmental causes. acne scarring, and war injuries such as serious burns and shrapnel
damage. As you would be aware Israel was in protracted conflicts at That was over 30 years ago, and today as a result of her personal vision that time with neighbouring States. Treatments mainly involved the Christina Cosmeceuticals enjoy a global reputation in over 52 use of Phenol peels, CO2, nitrogen and dermabrasion. At the time, countries. these treatments were strictly for skin trauma patients (not anti-
ageing), however, we began to notice an interesting phenomenon. Christina Miriam Zehavi is a highly inspirational woman who is now Although the initial purpose of these treatments was to peel the skin, considered as one of the world's foremost leaders in the field of with time and the progressive use of the treatments, we began to see professional and paramedical skincare. She conducts workshops and profound anti-ageing effects, including skin rejuvenation, is invited as a keynote speaker at numerous conferences, including improvement in wrinkles and sun damage, and also a tightening and anti-ageing medicine, non-cosmetic and plastic surgery congresses firming of the skin. As a result it wasn't long before these treatments
Q1. Christina, in your early career you worked in
hospitals treating severely disfigured skin from various
traumas. Can you tell us a little about this period in your
life and how this came about. What were some of the
treatments you were involved with and what were your
experiences?
Christina:
CHRISTINA MIRIAM ZEHAVI
SKIN SCIENCE COSMECEUTICAL FORMULATIONS
A life of dedication to and the pursuit of
By Matoyla Kollaras
internationalexpert
APJ 29
began to make their way into the clinics of doctors and dermatologists experience with peels and the effect they had on skin rejuvenation, so I
for the purpose of treating ageing skin. This was also the time that was quick to understand that this new discovery could completely
TCA peels started to enter the market being used by qualified aesthetic change the whole spectrum of the cosmetic field, which it most
therapists. As you can appreciate, being able to take part in a hands-on- certainly did. Today vitamin A is still the gold standard in anti-ageing,
approach to these treatments from the very beginning meant that I was even with so many new ingredients that have become available.
able to accumulate vast knowledge and experience in the field of peels
and their effects on the skin.
Our company pioneered the use of coral for healing and I was first exposed to glycolic acid in the United States peeling that has been incorporated in our ROSE DE MER treatment
through a very good acquaintance of mine, Dr Alex Levenberg. Dr system. Our researched confirmed that corals not only possess Alex Levenberg is a plastic surgeon and respected member of the therapeutic properties, but that this ingredient also can deliver American International Society for Aesthetic Plastic
Surgery (ASAPS). I was working with Dr Levenberg in
his clinic at the time and together we were the first to
bring glycolic acid into Israel and begin working with it
on patients. This was a very steep learning curve
because this acid did not behave like anything we knew
and we thought we had seen and worked with all of
them. However, glycolic acid was a very big surprise to
us; on one hand it was non-toxic and yet we were faced
with many unexpected and often unwanted side-effects
when using it, from mild reactions to severe
complications.
We slowly started to become aware of several important
issues when working with this acid: the significance of
the pH, the duration that the acid was left on the skin and
even the way that it was applied also mattered. Most
importantly, we also worked out that if we changed the
base of the formulas we could also change the skin's
reaction and its response to the peel. Above all, we also
realised how imperative it was to analyse the skin
correctly and never, ever do any peels on dehydrated
skin. This knowledge has shaped the way we formulate
the peels and all our treatments in my own systems.
As for the retinoic acid (vitamin A in its purest form), I was first Extremely valuable skin-renewing properties through its effective exposed to this ingredient through the respected Dermatologist peeling capabilities, which is also one of its unique characteristics. Professor Albert Kligman in the USA. Shortly afterwards I was The coral silicate particles combined with plant and marine extracts fortunate enough to give a lecture with Professor Kligman at a stimulate the skin through a unique mechanism that heats the skin and conference held in Brazil, thus getting to know him personally. stimulates microcirculation. Over the next five days the various Professor Kligman (who invented the cream Retin A (Tretinoin) for layers of the epidermis are lifted, stimulating amazing skin renewal acne and wrinkles among other achievements) was the first person to and regeneration. This is a completely different method that works confirm the effect retinoic acid had on skin rejuvenation. Up until this from the inside out and is a different mechanism to chemical peels. time retinoic acid was only used to treat acne. At the time of meeting This system is also 100% natural, offering an extremely effective and working with Professor Kligman, I already had extensive
Q3. There is no doubt from what you have told us so far
that you certainly were at the cutting edge of some of the Q2. I also understand that you were one of the very first
most significant advances in the cosmetic world. Can aestheticians to work with glycolic acid and retinoic
you tell us of any recent new developments in acid. Can you please elaborate on the lessons learnt
technologies or formulations? when working with these ingredients?
Christina:Christina:
skin-renewal treatment for clients looking
for a natural alternative to skin peeling and
rejuvenation. We were the first company to
harness and launch this peel on the market
worldwide.
I have been fortunate to meet
and work with many prominent doctors,
dermatologists and scientists across the
globe that have all had a strong, positive
professional impact on me as well as on the
products that were born out of my
interaction with them. I would like to also
acknowledge:
P r o f e s s o r I v o P i t a n g u y , a
philanthropist, plastic surgeon and
educator, began working at a Brazilian
hospital. On December 17, 1961, a
burning circus tent fell on 2,500
spectators in the Brazilian city of health. So I started developing and manufacturing unique products
Niterói. He treated burn victims for weeks on an emergency basis. that provided solutions for a large variation of skin problems at a time
He later referred to the event as life changing, as it taught him that when the vast majority of skincare companies were only creating
for many, physical appearance was as critical to them as life itself.products for skin types, rather than skin conditions. To this day this is
the legendary founder of the French still a revolutionary approach, with only a handful of cosmetic
publication Les Nouvelles Esthetiques, which was launched in companies developing products specifically for skin problems. Our
1952 in Paris. LNE has now grown into an international trade solutions focus on the internal causes without neglecting the external
publication with a definitive worldwide reputation in virtually and environmental factors that led to the specific skin condition.
every continent and translated in various languages.
My first product was BIOPHYTO – my signature treatment. Because I have been the Editor-in-Chief of the Israeli edition of Les Nouvelles
of its highly advanced formula and use of ingredients such as salicylic Esthetiques for the past 20 years, which has been an enormous
acid, I was told by many that I was quite mad creating as my first responsibility, but also invaluable experience.
skincare range something so active for aestheticians to use – surely
this was setting myself up for failure? However, not only did I prove
the sceptics wrong, but to this day this treatment remains as popular,
effective and as relevant as ever.
Our company also changed the way that hyaluronic acid was used in First, thank you for the compliments, I am very humbled. formulas. We created 'THERASKIN' in response to the way HA was
I started travelling to Brazil some 20 years ago as a guest of Les used in Europe at the time, which we thought was not active enough or Nouvelles Eesthetiques and I have since then been repeatedly invited completely bio-available to the skin. We were determined to make our to give lectures and educate both aestheticians and doctors. But Brazil own HA formula, a formula that would work on the skin inside and
, out. We wanted to ensure that clients could see and feel the results. is just one of many destinations that I travel to each year including
USA, Russia, Baltic States, etc. Actually 80% of those treating the After all this is an incredible ingredient that needed to be the star of the
formula. I can tell you it took much research and development to skin with Christina Cosmeceuticals in Russia are in fact doctors. We perfect this product and it wasn't an easy task 30 years ago, especially do have slightly more active protocols for the Russian market, with the limited information and ingredients at our disposal. The however. formula has since been improved and we see some incredible results.
Christina Cosmeceuticals was launched over 30 years
ago and is the result of my professional experience in the skincare
industry. I was and still am a hands-on practitioner and I have never
stopped working on skin. It is this knowledge of constantly exploring
the needs of the skin that allows me to pursue and develop effective
solutions. The reason why massage and the hands-on approach are
important from a therapist's perspective is that it is a key component in I understood that there was a great market need for products that relaxing the client. However, there are other more important reasons provided visible and measurable results, and my goal was to design as well.such products without endangering or damaging the skin's overall
Q4. Christina, who else has had an
influential factor in your career?
Christina:
Professor Ivo Pitanguy and his
daughter, Dr. Gisela Pitanguy.
Mr H. Pierantoni –
Q5. We hear that you have a 'superstar' status in Brazil
with public recognition and when there you are often
asked for your autograph!
Christina:
Q6. Christina, what was the first treatment range that you Q7. What is unique about your systems is that they are
developed and why?very hands-on, including massage techniques, an art
Christina:form that seems to have been lost in the new world of
advanced technologies and equipment. Why was it
important for you to combine the traditional arts of
aesthetics with scientific treatments and formulations?
Christina:
APJ 30
without altering the underlying DNA, so non-genetic factors such as First, your hands are your best tools in feeling and detecting issues that
the environment, diet, stress and behaviour and other factors can sometimes your eyes cannot detect or see. Second, the power of
activate chemical switches that can alter the way our genes are massage is indisputable, with science now positively confirming our
expressed. long-held belief of its amazing benefits.
Regardless of our genetic makeup, I strongly believe that we do have Psycho-dermatology is a new field of medicine that recognises that
control of the genetic ageing of our skin. We can control oxidative the skin and mind are connected on many levels. Many nerve endings
stress, UV damage and toxication, which have an impact on the are connected to the skin, so as emotions are played out
progression of skin ageing, pigmentation and acne, among other skin neurologically, they can contribute to various manifestations through
conditions. This also means that with the right tools such as lifestyle the skin. At least 30% of dermatology patients have some underlying
changes, diet and, of course, good skincare and treatments, we can psychological issue.
affect the genetic expression positively, even if your parents did not
pass down genetically perfect skin to you. Studies at The Touch Research Institute of the University of Miami
have shown that anxiety, mood levels and all parameters of skin
We must remember that we are the guardians of our genome – this disease manifestation such as redness, inflammation and itchiness are
certainly is a profound thought and one that we are just starting to significantly improved after massage therapies.
come to terms with and one that will also forever change the way we
can have control over our health – mind, body and skin, and how the Facial massage must never be overlooked because it offers many
health industry, including aesthetics will evolve. important benefits to the skin, for example, three key benefits are:
1. It helps to relax tight and stressed facial muscles, thus reducing the
outward expression of fine lines and wrinkles
2. Massage aids in the relief of sinuses and allergic symptoms
3. Massage also facilitates the elimination of toxins in the face and
I have been involved in the creation and development of neck by stimulating blood circulation and lymphatic flow.
Furthermore, by being 'in touch' with your client, you can better create scientific skincare for over 30 years now. Even so, the joy, optimism a trusting long-term relationship that can lead to greater trust in your and the drive to continue in this pursuit remains with me and I feel recommendations. extremely positive about the future of this company. Our
manufacturing facilities are expanding and our R&D team is also
growing with exciting and innovative treatments and products
currently being developed. I have to say I have been extremely blessed
and humbled on this journey. I have worked with many influential
people, gained invaluable experience and I have had the opportunity
to share my knowledge with aestheticians throughout the world.
Indeed it has been an amazing life and I look forward to the future with I have been lecturing on the topic of genetic factors that
continued amazement and expectations for even better things ahead. impact our skin for over three years now, and the science to back this
up is found in a relatively new field of genetic medicine known as
Epigenetics.
The science of Epigenetics says that gene expression can be altered
Q9. Christina, in closing would you like to have a final
word about your life and the future of your company?
Christina:
Q8. There is no doubt that you possess a wealth of
knowledge and incredible experience, what are the latest
new development that you consider exciting for the
future of skincare?
Christina:
Christina Cosmeceuticals is distributed in Australia by
Skin Factors Ph: 1800 824 282
APJ 31
applieddna
APJ 32
seems boundless. The fascination has
been fostered by the remarkable work
of a group of scientists who, just 10
years ago, finished mapping the entire
human genome, an enormous
undertaking which has led to a far
deeper understanding of how our
genes affect our health.
If we were to unravel the entire DNA
in every cell in the human body, it
would stretch from earth to the sun
and back 70 times! This enormous
library of information stores every
little characteristic that makes you
unique!
The Human Genome Project
succeeded in cataloguing each of the
30,000 genes which reside in each cell
of every human being; some of these
30,000 genes we share with other
species on this planet but our
particular combination of genes
define us as uniquely human. So why
should we care?
Interesting as it is to know these facts
about our DNA, what is more useful is
the knowledge that can influence our
genomes in ways that can improve our
health. It is not so very long ago that
we thought that the genes we were
born with were 'cast in concrete',
never to be altered. So, if we saw that
a long line of our older relatives all
developed the same disease (for
example heart disease), we would have assumed that we would be The terms nutrigenomics and epigenetics are often used powerless to stop it developing in ourselves as well. What's been interchangeably, however they have different meanings and it is unfolding over the past decade is the exciting fact that we DO have important that we understand their difference as these are terms that significant control over our genome in ways we never thought
are currently also entering the world of skincare formulations and possible. And this can translate to much better health for us all.
behavioural science as neuroscientists have identified how we think
and speak can also affect our gene
expression. In this article Dr Houghton
demystifies these terms and explains
the role of nutr igenomics and
epigenetics in health and longevity.
We've always held a fascination with our
DNA, the huge library of genetic
information stored in every one of the 50
trillion or so cells which make up the
human body. The almost magical
secrets stored in our DNA find
themselves woven into television
dramas and murder mysteries. It seems
that a single hair or a lipstick smudge on
a glass can be enough to accurately
identify an individual! But can we
utilise information about DNA to
enhance our health?
Away from the screen and back to the
real world, our fascination with DNA
Nutrigenomics or EpigeneticsstThe must-know buzzwords of 21 century healthcare
By Christine Houghton B.Sc.(Biochem.),Grad.Dip.Hum.Nutr.,R.Nutr.,Ph.D. Cand. Nutritional Biochemist
Nutrigenomics or EpigeneticsstThe must-know buzzwords of 21 century healthcare
By Christine Houghton B.Sc.(Biochem.),Grad.Dip.Hum.Nutr.,R.Nutr.,Ph.D. Cand. Nutritional Biochemist
Figure 1 Lenghts of coiled DNA are grouped into genes. Each gene carries the code that the cell uses to make a
specific protein. Each of these proteins are essential for normal cell function.
APJ 33
WORKING WITH DNA 'SPELLING MISTAKES'
GENOME PROFILING OUTDATED AND FLAWED 'ANTIOXIDANT' THEORIES
NUTRIGENOMICALLY ACTIVE
FOODS AND SUPPLEMENTS
Every time a human cell divides to produce two new
cells it has to copy the exact DNA from its 'library
blueprint' into the two new cells. This should result in a
perfect DNA copy in the new cells but, for a variety of
reasons, it may not be. In short, the copy process
sometimes produces spelling mistakes – or typos!
When a spelling mistake occurs in a gene, it may not
make the gene worthless; more likely the DNA code
produces a protein (usually an enzyme) that doesn't
work as well as it should. So the job gets done but
perhaps only at 70% of the expected efficiency.
Geneticists call these faulty genes 'SNPs', pronounced
'snips' (single nucleotide polymorphisms). We all have
numerous SNPs and in part, this is what makes us each
uniquely different. Some of these SNPs, such as
toenail shape, don't affect one's health or wellbeing.
On the other hand, if you have a SNP which prevents
your blood vessels from relaxing as they should, you
may develop high blood pressure and other
cardiovascular abnormalities. This can be perplexing
because you might be careful to eat well, exercise regularly and get abnormal gene SNPs. The advantage of a 100% whole broccoli enough rest but still your blood pressure tends to be higher than sprout supplement over eating broccoli as a food is that a consumer normal. can be certain of obtaining a predictable amount of sulforaphane
which is easily destroyed by inappropriate handling.
New information about the human genome now makes it possible to
have a sample of your DNA taken and selected genes tested for the For 60 years, vitamin supplements such as vitamins C, E and others presence of SNPs. One of the genes which, is associated with the have been promoted as a way of activating the cell's defences. It was elasticity of the blood vessels is a gene known as eNOS (endothelial thought that disease and premature ageing were caused by exposure to nitric oxide synthase). If you have an abnormal variant in the eNOS free radicals in the environment. The simplistic notion that 'all free gene, you may be one of those whose blood pressure seems to defy all radicals are bad and all antioxidants are good' has turned out to be attempts to control it using a sensible lifestyle. The eNOS gene is also quite simply wrong, and yet this theory has driven mega-consumption associated with the way blood clots in the vessels. So how does it help of synthetic vitamin supplements without there being adequate me? evidence for their benefit, unless a frank deficiency exists.
The rapidly-growing field of Nutrigenomics may provide solutions to Research over the past decade has clearly shown that 'free radicals' in help you to optimise the function of the variant genes. Certain foods fact act as signals to tell the cell to 'switch on' its own defence systems. are known to influence many common gene SNPs and so it is possible What excessive amounts of antioxidant vitamins do is to mask these to select particular foods and/or nutrigenomically active supplements signals; as a result, the cell doesn't know that it should be switching on to increase the expression of the abnormal genes towards normal. its defences and therefore remains unprotected from the threat of
environmental damage.
The word 'nutrigenomics' is derived
from 'nutri' meaning food and
'genomics' referring to your genes, in
other words, 'your food talking to your
genes'. One of the most bioactive
nutrigenomic food chemicals is a
compound known as 'sulforaphane'
which is released in abundance from
certain forms of broccoli sprouts.
Sulforaphane (pr. Sul-4-a-fane) is
capable of activating a molecular
'switch' in human cells and this switch
influences literally hundreds of genes,
each of which is associated with the
way human cells protect themselves. In
fact, Australian scientists have
developed special sulforaphane-
yielding supplements which can be
used to counter the effects of many
Figure 2 Young broccoli sprouts as the highest source of nutrigenomically-active Sulforaphane.
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one carbon and three hydrogen atoms. Such 'paper clips' can switch Without a doubt, our new understanding of the power of
on certain genes and switch off others. In some cases, epigenetic Nutrigenomics opens doors to personalised healthcare we only
changes are harmful as when Nature's protective Tumour Suppressor dreamt about a decade ago. This is because we can activate our cells'
gene is switched off, a situation which occurs early in the development own defence systems using particular food molecules in exactly the
of most cancers. At other times, epigenetic changes can be beneficial same way as Mother Nature does.
and can be associated with our need to adapt to a changing
environment. Even though we may have inherited some defective
genes from our parents, the expression of many
abnormal gene variants can be improved by
choosing certain foods that can restore more normal The most remarkable example of epigenetics at function of that gene. So, even if all the members of work is demonstrated in the way that a Queen Bee your family appear to have suffered the same illness, is 'created' by feeding a worker bee differently presumably due to inheriting one or more abnormal from the rest of the bees.gene SNPs, our newer understanding of
nutrigenomics enables us avoid developing that The bees make highly nutritious Royal Jelly same disease by choosing foods or supplements which is fed to just one bee who subsequently known to improve the expression of the defective develops into a Queen Bee; such an extraordinary gene(s). transformation simply as a result of the
composition of the Royal Jelly.
'nutrigenomics' Every one of the bees in the same hive carries Often used interchangeably with ,
'epigenetics' genetically identical DNA. However, different the word is also associated with the way
bees in the hive have different roles as drones, nurses, workers and of our genes are expressed, although different in its action.
course the one selected to be Queen. Even with identical DNA
structure, the bees develop differently just because they are fed As we saw earlier, SNPs occur when DNA makes the equivalent of
differently. It seems incredible that Royal Jelly can effect such 'spelling mistakes' in copying the code. In this way, the expression of
epigenetic changes that a worker bee can not only become larger, but the gene changes, so that the proteins produced from the defective
also adopt a different role within the social hierarchy of the hive.code don't work as efficiently as they should if the error had not
occurred.
Epigenetic changes also modify the way in which a gene is expressed Epigenetics can have numerous effects, some desirable and others but in a different way. Let's imagine that certain small molecular unwanted. Poor lifestyle choices such as smoking and excessive groups are like paper clips and that we can pin a paper clip on to part of alcohol consumption can activate epigenetic changes in certain genes; the DNA; we can also remove it later without damaging the basic disease becomes more likely and health and longevity less likely. structure of the DNA.
Most alarming is the fact that we can pass these epigenetic tags onto The most common form of 'paper clip' is a methyl group made up of our offspring, so that our children and grand-children can be born with
BOTTOM LINE ON NUTRIGENOMICS
THE MAKING OF A QUEEN BEE
EPIGENETICS VISIBLY AT WORK
EPIGENETICS “BUZZWORD” NUMBER 2
EPIGENETICS – THE GOOD AND THE BAD
APJ 34
Figure 3 Methyl groups are like
paper clips which can attach to
the DNA and switch the gene
'on' or 'off'.
the same disease-promoting tendencies
that we acquired in our younger years;
this adds another dimension to the
expression, “the sins of the father…”
Epigenetics is also visibly at work when
individuals survive famine. There have
been several great famines in recorded
history during which pregnant women
survived and gave birth to apparently
healthy offspring.
Because the surviving mothers were
forced to adapt to lowered food intake,
they carried epigenetic tags on their
genes, the means by which they were
able to adapt to their dire circumstances.
When the children of those women were
born with the same epigenetic markers,
they quickly became overweight once
they started to eat a normal diet; the
epigenetic 'memory' of their cells
behaved as though they were living in an
environment of famine, behaving to
conserve energy. Some scientists think
that this carry-over effect from
adaptation to past famines may be an
added contributor to today's obesity
epidemic.
The growing popularity of this paradigm
is such that in January, 2010, TIME
magazine featured it on its front cover.
The Special Article entitled “Why Your
DNA Isn't Your Destiny” sought to
capture the enormous importance of this
new concept in personalised healthcare.
Its message was to convey the fact that
no longer are we as individuals dealt a
rigid genetic hand of cards at birth;
instead, by modifying our environment
and lifestyle choices, we can maximise Nutrigenomics teaches us that food is so much more than a means of the expression of our genes.satisfying appetite; food is a library of complex chemical compounds
continuously interacting with our DNA. Nutrigenomically active What is so profound is that every mouthful of food we consume substances are like the conductors of an orchestra, sending continuous contains compounds which engage in complex and intricate subtle signals to the musicians so that the finished performance is 'conversations' with our genes, modifying their expression for perfectly synchronised. Such is the magnificent and complex function better… or for worse, depending on the foods we eat and the lifestyle of human cells. We are really only just beginning to comprehend their choices we make.intricacies as we sit on the cusp of this exciting new paradigm in
personalised health care.From the very first contact a new baby has with its mother's milk or
colostrum, signals are being sent to the baby's genome. There can be
lifetime consequences to infants (and their offspring) who are fed
over-processed foods early in life; changes to the child's epigenome
acquired during its lifetime can be passed down to subsequent
generations.
Each of us in our pre-reproductive years has a huge responsibility to
take care of the genome our children and grandchildren will inherit.
Rather sobering, isn't it, especially when our youthful pre-
reproductive years are often spent abusing our body in ways that are
pushing our cells to the absolute limit?
HOW DOES KNOWLEDGE OF
NUTRIGENOMICS AND
EPIGENETICS AFFECT ME?
Christine Houghton BSc (Biochem) Grad.Dip Hum.Nutr.PhD.Cand. is a
Nutritional Biochemist with over 30 years' experience as a private
practice clinician in Nutritional Medicine. Her particular interest is
focused on Nutrigenomics, a strategy for identifying natural
compounds capable of up-regulating the genes that cells use to prevent
disease-promoting processes. Christine is also the author of
“Switched On Harnessing the Power of Nutrigenomics to Enhance
Health”. For more information visit www.cell-logic.com.au
APJ 35
Figure 4 Front cover of TIME magazine January 18, 2010.
APJ 36
Dr Thierry Hertoghe, MD is a world-renowned leading endocrine Dr Hertoghe: expert and practising physician from Brussels, Belgium. He is
internationally recognised as a leading specialist in Adult
Hormone Deficiency Therapy and is the President of the There are several nutrients that can offer effective support in International Hormone Society. He travels the world lecturing on appetite suppression – some of the most effective are the the latest scientific findings and effective treatments for a variety following:of health issues that can be addressed with correct hormonal Chromium: and nutritional protocols.
thIn 2013 Dr Hertoghe was hosted at the 7 A5M Annual thConference in Melbourne on the 24-25 August with the theme
Obesity & Metabolic Syndrome. Dr Hertoghe also presented a
workshop for physicians in which he discussed an array of
techniques, successfully used by endocrine experts across
Europe and the US. His methods and protocols are cutting-edge
and have earnt him a global reputation as a leading authority in 5-HTP (5-Hydroxytryptophan):
the area of hormones.
It was our privilege to have Dr Hertoghe accept to be interviewed
by APJ to share with us some of the latest information of obesity
and effective weight-loss approaches.
APJ 1: Dr Hertoghe, can you please share with us some
of the latest scientific information on the subject of
obesity and metabolic syndrome?
What we now understand is that in order to lose weight
and maintain it, the most important issue of consideration is to
determine ways to control appetite.
Chromium is a mineral that humans require in trace
amounts. Chromium is important because it enhances the action of
insulin, a hormone critical to the metabolism and storage of
carbohydrate, fat and protein in the body and helps maintain normal
levels of sugar (glucose) in the blood. When sugar levels are out of
balance they contribute to hypoglycemia and this can trigger
compulsive eating. In the 1960s, chromium was found to correct
glucose intolerance and insulin resistance, the two indicators that the
body is failing to properly control blood-sugar levels and that are
precursors of type 2 diabetes.
This is a compound produced in the
body from the amino acid tryptophan. It is a precursor to the
neurotransmitter serotonin and the hormone melatonin. 5-HTP
supplements have become popular because they have been proven to
boost the body's serotonin levels, similar to the antidepressants that
are thought to increase the amount of serotonin available to the brain.
For this reason 5-HTP has been used for depression, anxiety,
insomnia, fibromyalgia, migraine and weight loss because it can calm
the body, lowering the frustration from pressure and stress that often
leads to random and compulsive eating for the purpose of comfort. 5-
HTP has also been proven to be an excellent appetite reducer.
An interview with the King of HormonesDR THIERRY HERTOGHE, MD
anti-ageingresearch
APJ 37
Oxytocin:
APJ 3: Can you give us some valuable tips for a
successful weight-loss program?
Dr Hertoghe:
APJ 4: There are many different weight-loss theories. Do
you believe that the hormonal status of the individual
will determine how effective their weight-loss will be and APJ 2: Can you suggest successful activities and can you give us some examples?hormone therapies that can assist in effectively reducing Dr Hertoghe:weight?
Dr Hertoghe:
APJ 5: Can you give us a general overview of factors
that have been proven to help support weight-loss and
reduce weight gain?
Dr Hertoghe:
thyroid hormones are well balanced can also help to achieve a firmer This is the warm-heartedness and sociability hormone that body with more energy. is released during childbirth facilitating birth and maternal bonding.
Oxytocin is a neurohypophysial hormone that acts primarily as a
neuromodulator in the brain. Recent studies have begun to investigate
oxytocin's role in various behaviours, including orgasm, social
recognition, pair bonding, anxiety and maternal behaviours. For this One of the most important factors in assisting the body reason it is sometimes referred to as the "love hormone". Studies have
with weigh-loss is getting sufficient sleep. Ideally you should get also found that oxytocin can help to regulate food intake and energy seven to eight hours of sleep a night. This is because insufficient sleep metabolism. These findings reveal the novel anti-obese and anti-can affect two hormones. Ghrelin is a hormone associated with metabolic-syndrome effects of oxytocin.increased appetite and addictive behaviour and has been also linked to
compulsive eating via neurotransmitter and hormonal pathways of the The role of hormones has now been proven to help reduce fat. Male reward system. hormones are helpful in strengthening muscles and prevent droopy
muscles during weight loss. Low-calorie diets require support to Insufficient sleep also suppresses leptin. Leptin is manufactured protect against muscle loss. A lean, firm body is youthful, but a lean primarily in the adipocytes of white adipose tissue, and the level of body with weak, droopy muscles is ageing. circulating leptin is proportional to the total amount of fat in the body.
Leptin plays a key role in regulating energy intake and expenditure, Also, certain amino acids and nutrients used in conjunction with including appetite and hunger, metabolism and behaviour. It is one of weight loss have been proven important. These are recommended to the most important adipose-derived hormones. This hormone is be taken in capsule form or in powder form (without sugar). These associated with increased appetite that can lead to eating up to 40% include Chromatin, a complex structure composed of DNA and more food, mainly sweets.proteins, Glutamine, which is one of 20 amino acids formed by the
human body. Glutamine improves mental function controls blood Another valuable tip is to drink plenty of clean, pure water. Tests have sugar levels as well as muscle mass among other things. shown that drinking half a litre of water before each meal can lead to a
decrease of up to 200 calories per day. Such a decrease can amount to Another amino acid is Carnitine, also known as L-Carnitine – a quite a few calories in a 12-month period and can prevent weight gain. naturally occurring nutrient that is produced in the kidneys and liver Often we confuse thirst with hunger, so when we drink sufficient and manufactured in the body from the essential amino acids lysine water it can have a suppressive effect on our appetite.and methionine. Carnitine helps carry fatty acids into the
mitochondria in cells so that they can convert these acids into energy. Another tip is to chew your food well and as much as possible, It is therefore considered a viable supplement for weight loss and consciously select your food choices and eat slowly. For example, exercise enhancement. Other amino acids are creatine and tyrosine. eating while watching TV can lead to you eating without
consideration of what you are actually eating or the quantity that you Additionally, omega-3 and omega-6 essential fatty acids have been are eating. Your food should be nutritionally well-balanced.shown to have weight-loss benefits. Omega-3 is often found in fish
oil, while omega-6 is found in flaxseed oil. Studies confirm that
consuming omega-3 fatty acid supplements can help burn fat at a 26%
higher rate than if not taken.
It is important to ensure that you have well-balanced
hormones as these issues are critical to losing weight and keeping it
off. It is also important to examine and know your genetic pre- There is no doubt that physical exercise burns calories dispositions. What are your genes saying about your tendency for – the more physically active you are the more you lose weight. weight gain? Check your appetite genes, as these will indicated if you Studies confirm that 95% of people who do not exercise will put their will be inclined to put on more fat.weight back on, so it is important to ensure that when you lose weight
you keep it off. The type of exercise you need will depend on your It is also important that you look at not only your hormonal status and body type. If you are muscular, weights will only add bulk. With nutritional status, but also your lifestyle habits and your eating choices extra muscles your weight will not change. Those body types will as a whole and take responsibility for all these areas. need to do more aerobic exercises, such as jogging, swimming or
cycling, but not body-building exercise if they wish to achieve global
weight-loss.
In terms of hormones, certain bio-identical hormones can help reduce
fat while supporting lean muscles. These are more effective when As I mentioned before Chromium is an important their root of administration is transdermal such as
nutrient to help suppress sugar graving – 800 mgs per day can assist Oestrogel/Estradiol, while synthetic hormones that are administered with that. 5-HTP 25mgs at one time, or 10-15mgs several times a day, orally can increase fat mass. This is because synthetic hormones can help cravings due to stress. metabolise in the liver and certain liver metabolic reactions are not
good for weight loss. Another important nutrient is Omega-3 fatty acid from fish oil.
Omega-3 is rich is ALA (alpha-linolenic acid), DHA Hormones are critical in supporting weight-loss and for this reason (docosahexaenoic acid) and EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid). Taking must be well balanced. For example, a female that has too much 3gms per day will help protect against regaining weight. In terms of oestrogen can develop extra weight in the breasts. Ensuring that your diet the Paleolithic diet of fresh fruit, vegetables (not canned),
sprouted grains, low temperature cooked protein-rich foods (meat,
fish and poultry), preferably organic, is advised that can improve
energy levels.
Cooking fat at low temperatures is important to avoid conversion to
trans fatty acids, which we know are no good as they increase the
risks of coronary heart disease by raising levels of LDL cholesterol
and lowering levels of "good" HDL cholesterol. Maintaining correct hormone levels, getting adequate sleep and drinking sufficient water
are key. Another area that needs to be monitored is stress. Too much
stress or the desire to do too much can contribute to weight gain. This
is because stress decreases testosterone, thyroid hormones and
growth hormones.
There are three hormones that in excess can
contribute to weight gain. These are:
as this can contribute to converting fat to cellulite and a
tendency for a fatty belly.
due to stress. An excess of cortisol can contribute to
extra weight in the upper back and neck as well as ballooning or
swollen face. To counteract this remove sugar from the diet and
support the body with hormones such as melatonin or growth
hormones.
excess can contribute to too much fat in the breasts,
belly and pelvis. This can be counteracted with the appropriate
doses of progesterone and male hormones.
There are now several hormone modulators that can be prescribed to
block excessive conversion.
There are still misconceptions against bio-identical
hormones, which are outdated and unjustifiable as there are now
numerous studies that support their benefits. The concept that
growth hormones are dangerous is also incorrect. Growth hormones
are essential to health and there are studies that show that deficiencies
can lead to a decreased lifespan – woman can live up to 30-40 years
less when deficient.
We are pursuing to achieve the legal right of way for patients to
benefit from anti-ageing medicine. The best way to achieve this is to
get the general public educated and interested. There are now many,
many studies to back up and support the effective prevention of pre-
mature ageing and even reversing ageing. The regenerative
approach doesn't just treat disease, it also supports the person who is
healthy to get stronger and healthier.
There is now genetic testing and numerous new technologies to test
and determine the global picture of one's health to determine
deficiencies and restore optimum health. We are slowly starting to
see anti-ageing medicine included in the curriculum of some
universities worldwide, which is encouraging – these include
universities in Spain, France, Germany and in the US. However,
some countries are regressing, while others are making progress.
APJ 6: In your opinion what hormonal excesses
contribute to overweight problems?
Dr Hertoghe:
Insulin –
Cortisol –
Oestrogen –
APJ 7: Is there still a battle about the acceptance of
bio-identical hormones?
Dr Hertoghe:
For further information on Dr Thierry Hertoghe visit
http://www.hertoghe.eu/patients/
APJ 38
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APJ 40
While there is much information available about IPL and lasers
on what they can achieve, less appears to be known about LED
light and the physics that govern its capabilities in healing and
skin rejuvenation. As LED is currently experiencing renewed
interest, new research that has come to light reveals the power of
this amazing technology. Sarah McGrath is a master trainer in
LED and microcurrent. Here she presents some interesting
research findings that unveil the potential of this amazing
technology and how it can be used more successfully.
*
WHAT IS PHOTOTHERAPY?
surrounding tissue. A wonderful side-effect, he noticed, was that the
lamp was not only improving cancer lesions, but also rejuvenating the
surrounding skin.
Dr Whitehurst went on to spent five years developing the Paterson
lamp (designed at the Paterson Institute in Manchester), which has
morphed into the modern Omnilux.
Last year I was at a seminar in Melbourne of Dr Robert Glen
Caulderhead, who has a long and distinguished career in laser
medicine. In the past 25 years he has delivered more than 150 invited and special guest lectures at national and international congresses, and After years in the corporate manufacturing world, I decided on a “sea-more than 200 free papers. The co-author of two books on laser change” so that my husband and I could start a family. I have always therapy, he has also collaborated on several others and has had more been interested in natural health remedies, and was introduced to the than 110 papers published in peer-reviewed journals. He is also the world of IPL and LED by my good friend and mentor Bonnie Sleep. author and co-author of more than 130 scientific papers on
biomedicine and phototherapy, and has been the author and During my training and clinical experience I have seen and treated collaborator of 10 books on laser therapy, laser surgery and simulation many people for skin issues completely unrelated to skin rejuvenation, surgery. See below his extensive credentials.such as cuts, burns, psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis, and some pretty
nasty open wounds caused by manufacturing accidents, and it's the The following studies quoted below use various Omnilux LED Light healing mechanism of light therapy that has really ignited my interest Therapy Lamps, because they are considered to be the quintessential to learn more. technology in LED.
In the beauty clinic I currently work in, we operate an Omnilux Light
Therapy, which was developed by Dr Colin Whitehurst of the Christie Phototherapy comes from the Greek terms “phos, photos” meaning Hospital in Manchester, who while researching alternatives to laser in “light” and “therapoeia” meaning “I treat or heal”. In its broadest the treatment of skin cancer created a PDT (photodynamic therapy) - meaning, phototherapy is any kind of treatment where a form of light a lamp that was able to kill cancer cells without damaging any of the
* Dr Robert Glen Caulderhead is the International Research Co- World Anti-Aging Medical Association (WAMA) and the of Laser Therapy and was educated at the University of Glasgow,
ordinator at the Instituto Médico Vilafortuny, Cambrils, Spain and International Society for Simulation Surgery (ISSIS). He is Past Scotland, has an Honorary Research Fellow in Guy's Hospital
the Japan Phototherapy Laboratory, Tokyo, and a Visiting Secretary General of the World Association for Laser Therapy Campus of the School of Medicine, University of London, at the
Professor in laser biomedicine at the School of Odontology, (WALT), a Charter Executive Member of the newly formed Medical Faculty, Trinity University, Malaga in Spain and at the
Department of Anatomy, Carmen Castilo Branco Campus, São International Phototherapy Association (IPA) and a member and School of Medicine, Rochville University, MD. The protocols we
Paulo University, Brazil. He is Secretary General of the international research fellow of the Royal Society of Medicine, now employ are those that he has developed with his 25 years of
International Society for Laser and Sports Medicine (ISLMS), the London. Dr Caulderhead is a former Executive Managing Editor experience. (Bio courtesy of Touch Dermatology.com)
The Clinical Application of LED Light for Healing and Skin RejuvenationBy Sarah McGrath
The Clinical Application of LED Light for Healing and Skin RejuvenationBy Sarah McGrath
APJ 41
is used. In the modern era, it has come to mean the use of non-invasive Blue, green and yellow light wavelengths penetrate poorly because of
levels of light (photon energy) to achieve a non-surgical but clinical their absorbance, while deep penetration happens with red (633nm),
effect, in an atraumatic and athermal manner (cf 'photosurgery'). and the deepest penetration occurs at near-infrared (830nm.)
LED (Light Emitting Diode) Light Therapy is the application of a very Of course, the primary targets in phototherapy are skin cells. Our skin
specific frequency of light to the skin. The various colours are is the largest organ of the body that protects our body from the external
determined by their wavelength. This produces a biological response environment. The skin has an ideal water content measurement and
called photo-biostimulation, whereby reactions take place in the cells most importantly, contains all of the target cells for LED therapy. At
and skin tissue in response to the wavelength of light. Both visible and any given time, the skin contains more than 20% of the body's blood.
near-infrared wavelengths stimulate changes in the body's cells.
There are differences in how visible light and near-infrared light Flash-lamp technology (IPL) is non-coherent, polychromatic and
energy activate a cell. Visible light energy passes through the cell delivers thermal damage to the skin cells.
membrane and is absorbed by the intracellular organelles. The cell
becomes activated from the inside-out to the membrane. The near-Non-ablative skin rejuvenation laser systems are coherent in their
infrared energy is absorbed first in the membrane and then inwards, wavelengths, but also deliver thermal damage.
before returning back out to the membrane. The end result is the same
though – a photo-activated cell. The difference is that one is photo-LEDs are quasi-monochromatic (generally +/- 3-6 nm) and deliver
physical (visible red light) and one is photo-chemical (near-infrared.) photo-bioactivation, which is athermal and atraumatic. They work
change This is important though, because using both visible red light and with the body's own natural frequencies to induce , as opposed
damage near-infrared light concurrently confuses the cell due to the to delivering to induce change. There is no downtime, or
mechanisms of photo-activation. Therefore only one wavelength of side effects, no damage to sub-dermal tissue, and it's relaxing and
light should be used at a time. calming to the candidate. LED is compatible with existing skin
rejuvenation techniques such as Botox, IPLs, laser resurfacing and
The light energy recharges the mitochondria of skin cells (the “power cosmetic surgery.
generator or battery” of a cell), giving them energy to perform at their
maximum capacity. The light also opens up the communication
channels between cells, through increasing the production of calcium Light is the movement of photons, the fundamental particle of light. ions (inter-cell signalling), which is where the “Bystander Cell They have a unique property in that they are both a particle and a wave. Theory” comes into play. Not every single cell needs to be This is what gives them the unique properties of refraction and specifically targeted. Because of cell communication and signalling, diffusion both very important concepts in Phototherapy.
Photons are the most visible portion of the
electromagnetic spectrum. Because light is another
form of energy, it can be transferred or converted into
other types.
For example, when light hits the skin it is both reflected
from the stratum corneum and is transmitted through the
epidermis and dermis. In the dermis the light is scattered
and this is where a large volume of tissue can be targeted
from a comparatively small light source. In skin therapy
we want the light to be absorbed in the target tissue where
the most important interaction of energy exchange can
occur. If you don't get absorption of the light, then you
don't get a bio-stimulating reaction.
The different colours of LED (determined by their
wavelength) penetrate the skin to varying depths,
causing the skin to respond by undergoing the Wound
Healing Response.
With the different wavelengths, we want to target very
specific cells at specific depths. This is where intensity
is very important. Without enough intensity, the light
won't reach its target. If the light is matched to its target
with good penetration, then the photo-biostimulatory
response will occur.
If there is increased optical density (absorbance) then
there will be less penetration to target tissue – the higher
the optical density the less the penetration of the
wavelength of light.
DIFFERENCES IN THE WAYS CELLS ARE PHOTO-
ACTIVATEDPHOTOTHERAPY LIGHT SOURCES
HOW DOES LED LIGHT THERAPY WORK?
surrounding cells receive the same messages and the Wound Healing such as NASA get involved. NASA has found that human cells need
Process (WHP) begins indirectly. Damaged or compromised cells gravity to stimulate cell growth. Biologists have found that cells
begin to repair, cells perform their functions better and cellular exposed to near-infrared light from LEDs (just outside the visible
proliferation is increased. range) grow 150-200% faster than cells not stimulated by such light.
This has led to the development of the NASA light emitting diode.
The body is a very intelligent system, and LED Light Therapy has a
“Systemic Effect” in this regard. For example, you may be treating
dermatitis, eczema or psoriasis on an arm, and if the condition exists An appropriate wavelengthelsewhere that will also improve, due to the body’s ability to signal, Be able to treat a large area uniformly
2communicate and exchange information. Have a high photon intensity (mW/cm ) at an appropriately high 2dose (J/cm ).
For example, ideally red LED at 633nm should have around 2 2 105mW/cm & 126 J/cm , with near-infrared at 830nm to have an Remember that the intensity and the wavelength are very important,
2 2 intensity of 55mW/cm and a standard dose of 66 J/cm ,while the blue and that when there is a high optical density, penetration is poor. 2wavelength at 415nm should have an intensity of 40mW/cm with a Because photons are little packets of energy, each wavelength has a
2different photon energy level. The light (photons) give the cell dose of 48 J/cm .information, which is specific to its wavelength. If you give the cell conflicting information (as when combining different wavelengths or The NASA diode is considered the epitome of LEDs for aesthetics colours) you confuse the cell. If the cell is told to “go left” and “go because of its high photon intensity and high dose output. However, right” simultaneously, the result is that the cell goes nowhere, or even there must be a sufficient number of diodes precisely aligned in a worse, may shut down. reflective base to ensure that a zone of very high photon intensity is
created over the target tissue. As mentioned previously, the way a cell is photo-activated by a visible
frequency compared to a near-infrared frequency is completely Remember that the skin has light-scattering characteristics as well as different (photo-chemical versus photo-physical), so the cell again is being able to absorb the light, so the more LEDs you have aligned, confused when irradiated concurrently with different wavelengths, or closely together, the greater the intensity (penetration) and area you even within the same 48-hour period. are able to treat.
Scanning an area with a specific frequency of LED light gives poor
intensity, resulting in an under-active cellular process. The LED light When we use the term “red light” we are referring to the red source needs to be focused and targeted on the specific area for a wavelength of light in our visible light spectrum about 650 nm, specific level of time. Studies show that 20 minutes is the optimum although different LEDs may produce at slightly different time period (providing for intensity). There are no increased wavelengths. There are many documented cases of cells undergoing measurable benefits from a longer time period, however, below a 20- change when exposed to red light. Red light is selectively absorbed by minute period cellular activity is not maximised. respiratory components of isolated cells (Fubini et al) at 633nm.
Maesters found that it has excellent healing capabilities with slow-to-Many questions are asked of yellow light at 590nm. While it is heal and non-healing ulcers (due to vascular insufficiency), and broadly accepted that red and near-infrared wavelengths (633nm & accelerates angiogenesis (development of blood vessels). Red light is 830nm) provide the best outcomes for the Wound Healing Process and absorbed preferentially in the redox chain of the mitochondria Skin Rejuvenation, there is conflicting information about yellow respiratory system (Karu), it stimulates fibroblasts in vitro to form light. The latest research indicates that due to the poor penetration of mono-sheet faster with linear alignment (Trelles). Furthermore, it yellow light at 590nm, (high optical density of 7.8, therefore poor accelerates the recruitment and degranulation of mast cells (Trelles, penetration) through a human hand, in vivo, there is very little benefit Bolton, Dyson). Red light also increases the calcium ion production to be gained from a healing or skin rejuvenation perspective. In and inter-cell signalling in vitro and in vivo (Lubart). In a nutshell, contrast, the same studies show that the 633nm wavelength (red) red stimulates collage formation and is anti-inflammatory.penetrates much greater with an optical density of 4.5, with the 830nm
penetrating the furthest with an optical density of 3.1. Near-infrared light accelerates the degranulation of mast cells even
better than red light (Trelles, Bolton, Samoilova). It also stimulated
better chemotaxis phagocytosis and internalisation in pooled human
neutrophils (Shiroto, Dima). Additionally, it increases calcium ion
production and inter-cell signalling in vitro and in vivo better than red
(Lubart). Near-infrared stimulates collagen and promotes healing of 2Using an incident radiant flux (dose) of 2.25 joules/cm with an tissue.
incident power at 56mW (milliwatt one thousandth of a watt) and
measuring various pulsed beams (at 10Hz, 60Hz, 120Hz and 180Hz) The 830nm wavelength in near-infrared light relieves muscle spasms and a continuous wave (and using a control beam) measurements of and stiffness, relaxes muscle tissue and increases both the oxygen and fibroblast growth (counted by increase in fibroblast cells) over a time nutrients to stiff muscle tissues, thereby increasing lymphatic period of 0 to 6 days shows a lineal relationship over time. However, drainage. This wavelength acts on the hypertensive nerves with the continuous wave increasing fibroblast cells by 60,000, in (sympathetic system flight versus fight) to control and calm. This comparison to the pulsed light beams, which showed an increase of then assists random nerve firing, which controls spasms, decreasing between 22,000 (10Hz) to 48,000 (180Hz) over the same time period. stress hormones (para-sympathetic response). The 830nm
wavelength is excellent at assisting pain control (better than 633nm,
because of the depth of penetration), and is recommended to apply 2-3
times a week before the pain is removed. The type of LED used is very important, and this is where institutions
For the best outcomes, LED technology must have:
USING MORE THAN ONE WAVELENGTH AT THE SAME
TIME A NO-NO!
WHY ARE DIFFERENT WAVELENGTHS IMPORTANT?
SHOULD LIGHT THERAPY BE ADMINISTERED AS A
CONTINUOUS WAVE (CW) OR AS A PULSED LIGHT (PL)
FOR SKIN REJUVENATION?
ANY OLD “LED” WILL NOT DO
APJ 42
leukocytes and macrophages become active. The Mast cell releases The blue wavelength of light (415nm) is used mainly to treat moderate
cytokines and chemokines to attract other inflammatory cells. The inflammatory acne vulgaris, but has a much better outcome when used
leukocytes are the first line of defence against invading micro-in combination with red LED. A study undertaken by David Goldberg
organisms, and recruit T-cells. They are also responsible for the MD & Bruce Russell MD from the Skin Laser and Surgery Specialists
production of Transforming Growth Factor Alpha and Beta of New York/New Jersey, and department of Dermatology, Mount
Journal of (Fibroblast Growth Factor), which is required for fibroblast Sinai School of Medicine, New York, published in the
Cosmetic Laser Therapy proliferation. The macrophages remove the dead and dying cells, (2006, 8: 71-75) found that there was an
along with other detritus and synthesise growth factors.optimum reduction of 82% at 12 weeks post treatment, a marked
reduction in pore size, sebum production was reduced by over 50%
Following the Inflammation stage the Proliferation stage is activated. and there was no damage to the sebaceous gland.
This happens between 3-21 days. Here fibroblasts and
endotheliocytes go to work; the fibroblasts synthesise new collagen There were 22 subject with inflammatory or nodular acne (Burton
and elastin fibres, creating a new structural matrix and maintaining the grades II, 5; III, 4: IV, 8: and V, 5) treated with alternate blue/red light
structural homeostasis. The endotheliocytes form new blood vessels, therapy (twice a week, but with a minimum 48 hours apart for four
bringing nutrients and oxygen to feed the newly forming matrix.weeks). Another study undertaken by Seung Yoon Lee MD, Chung
Eui You MD and Mi Youn Park, MD PhD at the Department of
The third and longest stage is the Remodelling stage. This occurs Dermatology, National Medical Centre, Seoul, Korea and published
Lasers in Surgery and Medicine Journal between 18 days to six months. As in the previous stage, the cells drop in the 2007 39: 180-188,
back to their normal level. Some fibroblasts change into using the same treatment protocols (twice a week, sequentially with TM TM myofibroblasts, this, however, only occurs through photo-activation. the Omnilux blue and Omnilux Red, over four weeks) found a
final mean clearance percentage of 77.93% (reduction in – Myofibroblasts have “barbs” and “hook” into the collagen bundles to inflammatory lesions, papules, pustules, nodules and cysts, eight
pull them together into alignment, creating a compact, better linearly weeks after the final treatment) with significant skin lightening aligned matrix. Some fibroblasts de-differentiate into fibrocytes that highly desired in Asian societies.replenish the stem cell store for the future.
Studies show that at 633nm and 830nm (compared with wavelengths
at 590-595nm, 670nm, 790nm, 904nm and defocused beams of When using LED Light Therapy for skin rejuvenation, we initiate the 1064nm & 10600nm) the greatest activation of Mast cells, Wound Healing Process (WHP) which involves three stages macrophages and neutrophils occurs in the Inflammation Stage, Inflammation, Proliferation and Remodelling. however, a very high level of action occurs at the 830nm wavelength
across all three cell types compared to the 633nm wavelength, where Inflammation is important as if we don't have inflammation we cannot Mast cells rated high, macrophages rated moderate along with get Proliferation. (Steroids inhibit the immune response and neutrophils. (Action Potential of cells was measured using five inflammation.) At the Inflammation stage (0-3/4 days) Mast cells, different levels of action; very high, high, moderate, none and
HOW DOES LED LIGHT THERAPY WORK TO HEAL THE
SKIN AND ALLOW FOR REJUVENATION?
APJ 43
retardation.) This is due to the fact that
the 830nm of light is mostly absorbed
in the membrane and changes the
permeability of the cell, where the
sodium and potassium pumps are
engaged.
In the Mast cell, there is an increase in
the production of granules (histamine,
serotonin, heparin and tryptase) so
that pro-inflammatory and other
granules move from the Mast cell into
the surrounding normal tissue
through the increase in cell
permeability. This happens very
quickly, within minutes. Following
this, macrophage chemotactic factors,
neutrophil chemotactic factors and
fibroblast recruitment occurs within
hours, instead of within 2-3 days. red light alone (633nm group) and the satisfaction level was highest in
the group where the 830nm LED was used.At 830nm, LED induces “quasi-wounding”, where the WHP Inflammation response is started, without the inflammation, so that A similar study to determine the efficacy of combination LED therapy the Proliferation stage can begin far more quickly. (633nm & 830nm) in facial rejuvenation by Dr Bruce Russell and
published in the Journal of Cosmetic and Laser Therapy 2005, 7: 196-At the Proliferation stage, the 633nm wavelength reports the highest 200 also produced equivalent results, particularly in the reduction of increase (very high) in fibroblast and endotheliocyte action potential, lines and wrinkles. compared to all other wavelengths (as above), including the 830nm
wavelength. In comparison, at 830nm, fibroblast action potential is Considering that skin rejuvenation aims at wrinkle reduction and only moderate and endotheliocyte action potential is high. reversal of other signs of aged skin such as unhealthy and irregular
skin tone, the combination of the 830nm and 633nm LED light is the However it is at the Remodelling stage that we see significant change optimal protocol for this purpose and contributed to different again. For the 830nm wavelength, the highest level (very high) of therapeutic effects of each wavelength of light. action potential is seen with the myofibroblasts, compared to only
none to moderate increase seen with the 633nm wavelength. With the
use of the 830nm wavelength of light, overall the WHP Remodelling No single wavelength can attack all targets equally, so a combination stage sped up to occur from 10 days onwards, instead of 18 days to six of LED light therapies is required. However, because LED light months. therapy is non-invasive and non-ablative, and has such wonderful
healing benefits (633nm in particular), intelligent professionals can At the 633nm wavelength, fibroblasts, endotheliocytes, Mast cells and exploit the synergy between LED Light therapy and other approaches, blood vessel walls are targeted. This is perfect for healing, and red including conventional surgical procedures, IPL systems/fractional light is wonderful for using both pre and post-surgery and for technologies, epidermal powder pells/chemical peels, non-ablative increasing the healing time (and reduction in scar tissue) of wounds.skin rejuvenation, vitamin iontophoresis, mesotherapy and other
adjunctive epidermal treatments.At the 830nm wavelength keratinocytes, Mast cells, neutrophils,
macrophages, fibroblasts, blood vessel walls, lymphatic cells and sensory nerves are targeted. Because of the more targeted approach
and “quasi-healing” the Remodelling stage can occur between 12-15
days, instead of the 18 days to six months. The WHP time is cut
dramatically and there is a dramatic increase in collagen.
A randomised, placebo-controlled double-blind and split-face clinical
study on LED phototherapy for skin rejuvenation was conducted. It
used clinical, profilometric, histologic, ultrastructural and
biochemical evaluations and comparison of three different treatment
settings - 633nm only, 830nm only, combination 830nm, 630nm and
placebo red light. The study was conducted by Seung Yoon Lee, Ki-
Ho Park PhD, Jung Woo Choi MD, Jung-Kyun Kwon PhD et al and
published in the Journal of Photomedicine and Photobiology (2007)
88: 51-67. The clinical study used Omnilux Plus LED at 830nm and
Omnilux Revive LED at 633nm and found that a combination of using
first, the 830nm wavelength, then the 633nm wavelength, twice a
week, with 2-3 days apart, for 20 minutes per session and delivered
over four weeks delivered the greatest reduction in the severity of
wrinkles. The reduction rate of the melanin level was highest in the
IN CONCLUSION
Sarah McGrath graduated on scholarship from Bond University in 2002 with a
double degree in Commerce and
International Business. With a background
in accounting, marketing and management
she entered the mainstream business
SKIN REJUVENATION PROTOCOLS world before deciding on a career change in
2008. After studying both in Queensland
and London under the auspices of her
friend and mentor Bonnie Sleep, Sarah set
up her own clinic "Lumiere De Peau -
Skinlight", specialising in anti-ageing skin
treatments using Light Therapy (non-
contact IPL and LED) and Microcurrent.
Her experiences with the healing and skin
rejuvenation benefits of red LED drove her
to research other frequencies of LED
technology. Omnilux technology was on
the cutting edge of healing and anti-ageing protocols and used by some of the
world's most renowned and skilled surgeons. Sarah is a Master Trainer for CACI
Australia, incorporating LED and micro current technologies.
APJ 44
starperformer
APJ 46
Skeyndor's revolutionary Global Lift with ProGEN-in has created
a real impact with salons as well as with consumers since its
launch earlier this year. Targeting the skin at a cellular level, this
amazing formulation is recognised as a breakthrough in the
world of cellular anti-ageing. While excellent results can be
achieved with the use of the Global Lift skincare line unaided by
any technology, new studies have confirmed that results WHAT IS PHOTOPORATION? continue to improve when combined with various technologies
such as the amazing MESOSCIECE by Skeyndor or Sorisa
Photocare LED light technology and new-generation multi-
functional Sorisa Accura treatment platform.
WHAT IS ACCURA?
WHY FOUR DIFFERENT LED COLOURS?
WHY IS THE GEL MASK APPLIED DURING THE
SESSION?
WHAT IS PHOTOCARE AND WHAT IS IT USED FOR?
HOW LONG DOES A SESSION LAST?
Photocare uses the phototherapeutic effects of visible light from its
LEDs to significantly stimulate Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP),
which is the main energy molecule of the cell, improving the energy
capacity of the cell and greatly improving skin quality and
appearance. This process speeds up the metabolism, repairs cells and
improves overall skin condition.
Photoporation consists of temporarily opening micropores in the
outermost layer of the skin and cell membrane using LED light from
Photocare. These micropores enable the active ingredients in the
transparent gel masks applied to the skin to pass through to the deeper
layers of the skin where they can more effectively target cell
regeneration.
Accura is a multi-function device that combines several technologies
in one compact device delivering five treatment combinations, By utilising the option of four LED colours it is possible to offer more
including:selective treatments and to achieve greater accuracy with regard to the
High Frequency – Direct and Indirect electrodes depth where the effects are required. For example, by utilising blue Thermal High Frequency light with a wavelength of 470nm acne symptoms can be improved as Microcurrent Lifting this light wavelength acts on the bacteria responsible for acne and Electroporation stimulates the body's healing response.
This compact, yet highly effective unit offers unrivalled results at a
highly affordable price.
Sorisa has an innovative approach to applying active ingredients to the
skin. The gel-like mask is impregnated with active ingredients, Photocare by Sorisa is a unique device that delivers effective
making the cosmetic product easy to apply and remove. It is phototherapy LED light through various colour spectrums, but also disposable and therefore guarantees a personalised and hygienic combines photoporation techniques in conjunction with cosmetics. It treatment. These masks are transparent, so highly effective results are consists of a set of LED light screens (red, blue, green and white). The obtained with the application of photoporation and phototherapy with skin tissue exposed to the light with the appropriate wavelength uses Photocare. There are five different types of masks for an the light energy to increase the synthesis of collagen and elastic fibres, individualised treatment, as appropriate.obtaining a significant improvement in the quality and appearance of
the skin. Effective treatments can benefit conditions of flaccidity,
minimising wrinkles and expression lines, pigmentation, dehydration
and oily and blemished skin. Photocare sessions usually take around 50-60 minutes, including the
Anti-Ageing results never looked better
APJ 47
preparation time and all the steps involved in its different programs. Photocare can be pre-programmed and used as a treatment for a
On a FREE program, with 20 minutes for any single colour. variety of skin conditions, or as an add-on 20-minutes treatment with
any facial or treatment series to optimise cellular regeneration and
improve skin tone. Additionally, Photocare can deliver highly
effective tooth whitening at the same time as a facial-rejuvenation Significant results can be seen after the initial session, thanks to the treatment. Furthermore, it can be also used on any part of the body combined action of the abovementioned techniques. Treatments since the head is fully flexible. The head can deliver different colours comprising an average of 12 sessions are generally recommended, as on different parts of the face at the same time. Photocare is also these give highly satisfactory results. Depending on each case, six suitable for photodynamic therapy. maintenance sessions are recommended.
Photocare offers several treatment options that are supported by The treatment is not painful. The lights are fitted with fans that cool various masks and active ingredients to deliver specific treatment
outcomes. These masks work in conjunction with the five pre-set the skin, while providing a cool air that the client can breathe,
Photocare programs. Developed by Sorisa's medical research team, preventing them from feeling hot and confined.
the pre-set programs take the guesswork out of Photocare, enabling
you to attend to other clients while the treatment is in progress. Thanks The treatment is comfortable and relaxing, while achieving deep skin
to Photocare's highly flexible head, treatment can be localised to any penetration. Photocare emits LED light at specific wavelengths. It
part of the face or body. The pre-set programs include: combines exposure sequences and durations on different areas of the
face, delivering fast, long-lasting and comfortable treatments that can
improve most common facial problems. The deep penetrating This program utilises therapeutic effects of the LED light further complements and the stimulating and vasodilatory effects of near infrared light. This is enhances other treatment results such as laser or micro-needling.
HOW MANY SESSIONS ARE NEEDED?
TREATMENT OPTIONSIS THE TREATMENT PAINFUL?
Softening of expression lines and wrinkles: -
epidermolytic effects of glycolic acid. These encourage the
keratinocytes to detach, leading to skin peeling which, in turn,
promotes the growth of new skin.
The 470nm blue light emitted by
Photocare acts on the bacteria that cause acne, while helping to
stimulate the body's healing response. Photocare light
treatments ensure that sufficient light energy is emitted to
reach a depth of 2mm (dermis), where the bacteria responsible
for acne are found. This process activates collagen production,
generating a molecular variant of oxygen, which helps to
destroy these bacteria. Bacterial activity is reduced, acne
inflammation decreases and the general condition of the skin then combined and alternated with the toning, revitalising effects of improves as a result of this process. The oily skin treatment mode, yellow and green/magenta light that further stimulates the synthesis of when combined with the BlueCare cosmetic, contributes to decrease collagen. By applying the WrinkleCare mask, whose main ingredient the proliferation of the bacteria and the inflammation.is acetyl hexapeptide-3 (Argireline), neurotransmitter release is
significantly inhibited in the neuromuscular junction, which mimics Photocare combines red and yellow light emission, the effect of botulinum toxin and prevents the muscle contractions that which have vasodilatory and toning effects, with green/magenta, cause expression lines. which activates the enzymes, revitalises and repairs. A synergic
effect is triggered when it is used in combination with the
LiftCare mask, which contains elastin, a structural protein of the
extracellular matrix. Local application softens the rough texture
of the skin, increasing hydration and restoring elasticity to the
skin tissues.
Near-infrared light is
used for its stimulating, vasodilatory effects and is alternated
with yellow and green/magenta for a toning, decongestant and
revitalising effect. We complete the repair process by applying
the HydroCare mask, which contains vitamin A, C & E as well
as hyaluronic acid. Vitamin E is an antioxidant and yaluronic
acid has powerful skin moisturising properties that are
beneficial for preventing wrinkles.
Tooth whitening is also available as an added option.
PHOTOCARE improves all aspects of the skin, stimulates and
activates metabolic function in skin cells, activates fibroblast
cells to produce collagen and elastin, regenerates and stimulates Photocare collagen, decreases depth of lines and wrinkles, heals blemishes, combines the emission of green light for its enzyme activation effects improves skin tone, restores the skin's natural cellular collagen with the emission of yellow light for its toning effects. The revitalising activity, reduces sun-damage, increases moisture levels, intensifies effect of the light is enhanced with the LightCare mask, whose main circulation, fades pigmentation, promotes nutrition within the skin components include arbutin, vitamin A (retinol), vitamin C and and provides a healthier skin tone.glycolic acid. These vitamins have been combined with the
SKEYNDOR GLOBAL LIFT and SORISA's
Accura and Photocare offer unsurpassed ground-
breaking results and deliver on their promise.
Oily skin Treatment:
Facial firming:
Hydration and texture improvement:
Removal of blemishes and pigmentation lesions:
s
h
-
Phone VOGUE IMAGE GROUP
ON 1800 554 545, Ph: 03 9821 0033,
[email protected] or visit
www.vogueimage.com.au
APJ 48
Before After
Before After
By SKEYNDORBy SKEYNDOR
Contact Vogue Image Group 1800 554 545 | [email protected]
MORE FOCUSED, MORE TARGETED, NEW PROTOCOLS OUTSTANDING PROFESSIONAL RESULTS
MORE FOCUSED, MORE TARGETED, NEW PROTOCOLS OUTSTANDING PROFESSIONAL RESULTS
+
ACCURA - multifunctional technology
PHOTOCARE Advanced LED and Photoporation
By SORISA
+
ACCURA - multifunctional technology
PHOTOCARE Advanced LED and Photoporation
By SORISA
REVOLUTIONISE YOUR TREATMENTS with the power of synergy using the latest equipment technology, skincare and proven
protocols to achieve unbeatable, lasting treatment outcomes every time
Let Vogue Image show you how you can be the
BEST IN THE INDUSTRY
Let Vogue Image show you how you can be the
BEST IN THE INDUSTRY
APJ 50
of these tactics from a recent study I have
undertaken to share with the industry.
In this report I will present three key areas:
A brief overview on the aesthetic
industry and what is driving change
here in Australia
A brief summary of key global
predictions in skincare and technology
and discuss how these may affect you
and how to best prepare for these
changes
Strategy and what is strategic intent and
how to use these tools to navigate
through the challenges you may be
facing.
If we take a brief walk through the history
of the aesthetic industry we will note that in
its infancy it started with what was termed
“Cosmetology”. What that represented was
This is an industry report and I am basing some of the information the basic grooming tasks such as cleansing toning, moisturising and a from my lecture that I presented at the APAN conference in Adelaide mask once a week and, of course, the application of makeup. in May. As there were several lectures that presented technical
information, my lecture presented conceptual issues that pertained to From there it evolved over the past 40 years in activities that looked at our industry. correct cleansing and restoring the pH balance of the skin, supporting
the skin's lost moisture through hydrating products, sun protection, There is something very powerful in occasionally taking a back seat improving overall texture and the feel of the skin, providing a good and viewing the global perspective of the changes that are happening facial that will benefit the skin and relax the client, and also included around the world in order to gain insight on what is about to happen are other grooming services such as waxing, tinting, makeup and, of and more importantly, determining how will you position yourself to course, body massage manicures and pedicure.be best prepared as a leader in your field and as a well-positioned
business owner. In recent years skin therapy has moved to more advanced procedures
that are corrective in their intent and offer a more focused approach to Statistically, Australia does not have the budgets to assess in great anti-ageing. Education has played a great role in supporting these detail industry trends and consumer spending. As an organisation shifts, so let's look at what formal education offers:APAN does conduct its own surveys and researches and assesses
industry activities through our own various mechanisms and In the current Beauty Training Package key units cover basic anatomy observations as do other industry groups. However, there are large and physiology of the skin and body, histology of the skin, basic skin global research companies that invest millions of dollars in types and classification and basic skin disorders. Skin analysis at this determining consumer trends, as well as spending and changes to level looks at texture, colour, tone and lesions, but from a surface consumer preferences. They have the budgets to do this because they manifestation point of view and for the purpose of managing and advise large manufacturers and skincare companies. Much of these controlling these manifestations. Training does not include looking at statistical findings contribute to the development of new technologies the skin at an in-depth cellular level. A certificate IV or Diploma in and product formulations. Beauty Therapy, which were once at the peak of qualifications, are
now considered mid-level qualifications with the introduction of In my capacity as APAN's Chief Executive Officer I consider it my Advanced Diplomas that sit at Level 6 and Vocational Graduate responsibility to connect with the largest research companies in the Certificates, which are considered post-graduate qualifications at world in order to gain the global perspective of shifts and changes that levels 7 or 8.will ultimately affect us here in Australia. On a daily basis I spend
approximately three hours researching and reviewing reports, so to a With emerging new technologies we now have some amazing tools certain extent this is part of my expertise that allows me to confidently that allow us to address the skin and its needs at a much deeper level. advise the industry on what is about to happen and how to best prepare Whereas before a beauty therapist would identify broken capillaries for changes. Part of any effective strategic plan is to be correctly and try to soothe and calm the skin, the advanced aesthetic or dermal prepared, and much of strategy and strategic intent actually comes therapists would now ask the questions,“Why are the broken from military tactics. In fact, all wars have been won due to well capillaries there in the first place, what caused them? What is reallyexecuted plans based on strategic intent, and I have drawn from some
INDUSTRY OVERVIEW AND WHAT
IS HAPPENING IN AUSTRALIA
UPDATE ON INDUSTRY CHANGES
and the power of Strategic Intent in helping you be the WINNER By Tina Viney
industryreport
APJ 51
happening inside the cells and how did this
condition come about?” By getting answers to
these questions a therapist can now offer more This is a degree program that includes a more sustainable results and possibly address what in-depth and advanced level of knowledge and caused of the problem in the first place. The shift qualification. Briefly some of the units include: has now moved to “corrective” skin procedures Dermal Science, Nutrition for dermal care, that help to solve problems so that a higher level of Wound healing, Electrotherapy, Advanced result can be achieved. health research, Dermal professional practice,
Resurfacing science, Advanced laser and light, There is a growing number of aestheticians who Post-operative micropigmentation and trained many years ago who are allowing the Independent research.knowledge and experience to give them the
confidence to evolve their services to include the In the fourth year units includes such topics as more advanced treatments. However, they are Plastic and reconstructive procedures, Dermal now going to compete with the new breed of clinical practice, Advanced laser light and therapist who has been formally trained differently Independent research.to the way they were. As an example let's look at
what some advanced training programs are now
offering.
A new degree will soon be available through the Advanced Diploma of Cosmetic Dermal Science MHM Institute of Higher Learning that will be (52320) as delivered by the Australasian Academy offering both an Associate Degree and a Degree of Cosmetic Dermal Science – let's look at some in Clinical Aesthetics. This program will build of the unit descriptions and what they offer in on existing formal qualifications offered by terms of skills and knowledge:other institutions with additional advanced
units, including Therapeutic Interventions 1
and 2, Pathophysiology, Wellness and Anti-Dermal Science Human Biology provides students
ageing and numerous units in Clinical Skin with an extension of their underpinning
Therapies.knowledge in human anatomy and physiology
while providing a foundation for further studies in
At a higher learning level or Degree dermal science. This unit explores each organ
Qualification the graduate is trained to look at system in relation to skin health and appearance
the skin more closely and better understand its enabling students to investigate the causative
deficiencies, what caused them and how they factors of physiological and pathological skin
can be corrected. This approach does not limit changes/diseases.
the client treatment outcomes to the services of
one practitioner, but also includes effective Throughout this unit there is a strong focus on how
interfacing with other healthcare practitioners environmental factors, genetics, intrinsic ageing
at a more professional level that is more and endocrine changes affect the histological and
interactive and not just confined to referrals.visual qualities of the skin.
Advanced aesthetics now requires that you ask
more questions – a lot more questions, but also Dermal Science Practical is a hands-on unit in look at the skin at a cellular level. For example, which students transfer their theoretical consider pigmentation. You are now required knowledge into clinical practice. 1. (case studies) to investigate at what cellular level is the in the 3 grades of microdermabrasion, AHA peels, pigmentation based, what caused it and how Jessner's Peels, superficial TCA peels, IPL photo severe it is before your can determine the rejuvenation and permanent hair reduction and appropriate treatment tools and options.skin needling. These competencies ensure
students develop a high standard of technique Additionally, to achieve the kind of results that while maintaining a strong focus on hygiene and consumers are looking for we are now required safety. to also look not just at the skin, but also more laterally at what therapies through adjourning
disciplines will be needed to contribute to the
best possible results. These may include a Cosmeceutical science will significantly enhance
regenerative medical practitioner who may the therapist's knowledge of over-the-counter
look at digestion, hormonal/endocrine issues or cosmeceuticals and prescription pharmaceuticals
inflammation that will need to be addressed. used in dermatology. This knowledge is beneficial
You may also need to work with a dermatologist in order to effectively treat common skin concerns
or other healthcare professionals. and complement cosmetic surgery and/or dermal
therapy procedures. This unit provides an
More and more dermal and aesthetics therapists ev idence -based app roach t o spec i f i c
are also attending medical conferences such as cosmeceutical ingredients as opposed to branded
the AustralAsian Academy of Anti-Ageing formulas.
Bachelor of Health Science Dermal
Therapies – Victoria University
Bachelor of Applied Health Science (Clinical
Aesthetics)
1.2 Dermal Science Human Biology
2.2 Dermal Science Practical Workshops
2.4 Cosmeceutical Science
DHEA (Dehydroepiandrosterone) is a natural
hormone synthesised by the adrenal glands from
cholesterol. By correcting deficiencies in this
hormone the skin discretely increases production
of sebaceous matter, improving skin hydration as
well as attenuating age spots. All my life I have
suffered from extremely dry skin. Having
identified a DHEA deficiency I now take the
recommended doses as prescribed by my
regenerative medical doctor and my skin has
substantially improved from the excessive dryness
I once suffered from.
Each hormone deficiency offers different skin
manifestations. By being able to identify these
you can direct that person to a physician who
specialises in regenerative medicine and assist
your client to gain not only better health,
but also improve your skincare results,
and at the very least support the
longevity of your treatments. Untreated
inflammation can speed up the ageing
process and wil l substant ial ly
undermine your skin treatment results.
The A5M conference presented lectures
based on scientific evidence-based
research on a whole spectrum of topics
from the latest in genetics, nutrition,
successful weight-loss strategies as well
as anti-ageing procedures. Why
wouldn't you attend?
What about Cosmetex, which is staged
by the Australian Society of Cosmetic
Surgeons. I attended this event and what
I learned was amazing. Incidentally I
did not attend any of the paramedical
lectures – I only attended lectures on
techniques in surgery, injectables and
new technologies, as I wanted to capture
changes in techniques and new concepts
in what constitutes a beautiful face. In Medicine (A5M), with whom APAN has a formal alliance. At the this area I observed a definite shift in appearance enhancement in recent Cosmetex there were over 80 lectures, as well as a paramedical favour of the natural look.lecture stream that was well attended. What these platforms offer you
is the global perspective, and as an aesthetic professional you will The new trends and techniques are now focusing with greater detail on need to network with other experts. measuring features and using much less injectable solutions, whether
muscle relaxants or fillers that create a fresh look. The focus is on So you might say why should I pay all this money and go to a medical balance rather than over-lifting or over-plumping that gives perhaps a conference? I am not a doctor and I most likely cannot practise what I little more glamour, but at the same time an obviously enhanced or learn? OK, so here are a few thoughts on how you can benefit. altered look to what that person originally looked like. The issue of
over-volumising was identified in the long-term to ultimately Let's look at the A5M Conference that looks at regenerative and anti- contribute to ageing the individual, whereas the very natural ageing medicine. We know that ageing is the result of low-level enhancement approach ensures that the patient still looks like them- inflammation? However, what causes inflammation in the body and self only fresher and more youthful without any evidence of how can this be minimised? Are there hormonal issues, toxicity or enhancement. The shift is now more about correction than it is about other systemic imbalances that may not be at present symptomatic as a enhancement. This was presented right across the board throughout disease, but are still speeding the ageing process and compromising most of the presentations.the individual's quality of life and ultimately their health?
So is this a threat to the aesthetic or dermal therapist? Not at all. With Do you know how hormones affect the skin? Did you know that as the advanced protocols, products, techniques and procedures the oestrogen levels drop collagen and elastin production decreases, aesthetic therapist has a chance of competing for such results. What causing the skin to get dry and lose its elasticity. Did you know that we couldn't compete is with is the over-plumped lips and exaggerated the loss of oestrogen impacts ageing skin far more quickly than even eyebrows or over-volumised cheeks.sun damage.
APJ 52
What did I get from this? I was greatly encouraged because I
realised that the role of the dermal therapist and aesthetician will
continue to be crucial in helping to improve skin texture,
enhancing elasticity, minimising dullness and pigmentation and
improving skin immunity and overall skin health and appearance.
While injectables have their place, a well-hydrated skin with
good lymphatic drainage and a well-nourished blood supply will
still remain within the aesthetician's domain and still offer great
value.
A healthy skin texture and tone, protocols that stimulate collagen
synthesis and support a pH balanced epidermis will continue to
remain vitally important to a more youthful end result. The new
multi-disciplinarian approach using various equipment
technologies, trans-epidermal delivery systems, stress
management, detoxification and nutritional protocols will
substantially not only support a more youthful appearance
through their own merits, but can be a valuable adjunct to the
longevity and overall improvement to injectable and surgical
procedures. Sue Carroll demonstrated this, in the article on her
salon pages 76-77.
We can, and should, work together for better client outcomes in Wardle's amazing knowledge on the integration of new science and this new era and the evolving definitions of what constitutes education to improve treatment parameters was also invaluable, appearance enhancement. But I would not have come to this particularly for those who perform IPL and Laser treatments.conclusion had I not attended this event or for that matter, the A5M
Conference. Both these conferences provided me with substantial I encourage everyone who wishes to implement the clinical approach information on how we can best network and interface our procedures to seriously consider investing in formal qualifications and training. with those of healthcare professionals and streamline them for the Other than those I have referenced above check out Fuss College in level of client/patient outcomes that consumers are now seeking. Sydney, which also offers advanced qualifications, Beauty Therapy
Training Australia on the Gold Coast, AKISS College in Brisbane. At our own APAN conference some amazing information on They all have distant learning tools for theory component to their nutrigenomics was presented from Dr Christine Houghton that can training.potentially change the way we support the skin's detoxification
process and enhance its nutritional profile. On a technical level Gay We are currently working with these colleges for the purpose of the
National Workforce Development Fund (NWDF), the government
funding co-contribution to assist for salons and their staff to upgrade
their qualifications in the Vocational Graduate Certificate in
IPL/Laser Hair Reduction.
So what is happening in the area of skincare formulations? Don't let
anyone fool you that your work is only about procedures. Skincare is
undoubtedly the most technologically advanced and fastest-moving
category in the beauty industry. According to global research
companies in 2011, the category had an estimated value of $86bn,
which is forecast to increase to a staggering $102bn by 2015. This is
being fuelled by breakneck growth in emerging markets, alongside
continuing demand for natural and anti-ageing products in developed
markets.
Big rewards await those who can capture the imagination of
consumers, and as professionals we have to understand that while our
treatments offer great results, consumable items such as innovative
skincare is what drives clients or patients to us in the first place. Let's
face it – it is the cosmetic user who looks in the mirror every time they
apply a cream and says, “Ah, I would like to get rid of this
pigmentation, these pimples or these lines or wrinkles,” and then
seeks solutions for them. While they come to us for results, they need
to also take home what will ultimately support the skin and the results
we are attempting to achieve for their benefit.
GLOBAL PREDICTIONS IN SKINCARE AND
TECHNOLOGY
SKINCARE
APJ 53
threpresenting 81% of the market. Consumers, it seems, do not want to On the 20 June I attended a webinar over several hours that presented
get old and they are starting much younger in this quest as early as the future direction of the cosmetic industry. Critical information of
their late 20s. this event will be presented at the APAN Sydney Conference on th Monday 26 August at the same time as the Sydney Beauty Expo.
is picking up with 16% growth as consumer demand of In a nutshell here are the shifts that consumer global surveys have quality performance products for toning, cellulite and slimming given us on market drivers. continues to grow.
consumers are now this category has experienced a 3% increase, however I gravitating to bio-technology. They want ingredients that are as believe that hand rejuvenation is going to be the ne t trend as we are natural as possible and are looking for key ingredients they can now seeing injectable volumising hand treatments.recognise as a preference to their choice of product.
is also seeing a steady growth with men seeking are still the their own ranges that offer multi-functional benefits, uncomplicated,
predominant leader with the highest growth in the skincare category but with serious ingredients to protect, hydrate and improve their skin
and wellbeing. Men are no long likely to settle for a female product
they want their own skincare.
consumers are seeking out products to cater to their
exclusive needs and desires. They now want the right and freedom to
choose as individuals – self-realisation is a growing trend. They are
also looking for Adaptive ingredients, all in the one concept. There is
a growing trends for products to be accessed that meet the individual's
needs made easy through multi-factional products such as BB
creams that are anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, lifting and toning,
sun-protective and even provide cover as a foundation. Consumers
are attracted to products that offer several benefits in the one product
rather than having lots of products. Ranges will decrease, but
functionality will increase.
Body care –
Naturally-derived performance ingredients – Hand care –
Men's skincare – ,Cosmeceuticals and Anti-ageing products –
NEW TERMINOLOGY
Individualism –
,
x ,
,
–
APJ 54
However, strategy is not about
mechanical manoeuvres.
Regardless of the area of
endeavour the key to any
successful strategy is an
overall sense of mission, what
experts call strategic intent.
Far from an empty exercise,
crafting a clear and meaningful
mission statement shapes the
entire strategic plan process.
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HAND-HELD DEVICES
STRATEGY AND STRATEGIC INTENT
we are going to see amazing new
formulations that provide much better functionality in improving and
optimising skin moisture levels that have the ability to maintain these
levels throughout the day. They will be able to regulate water-loss,
they will be temperature and humidity responsive to suit changes in
climate variations, visibly improving skin dryness and offering
protection and long-lasting hydration throughout the day.
this is another interesting emerging term.
Consumers want to also feel good when using a skincare, they now
want a multi-sensory experience with textural awareness that is hitting
all five senses and can bring enhanced pleasure through their use. The
surveys indicated that consumers are gravitating to products that
provide both results and pleasure the total experience. More and
more we are going to see product formulators introducing innovative
ways to make skincare feel amazing and pleasurable to use while
also not falling short on results.
We can expect to see a huge influx of hand-held devices as
manufacturers go neck-to-neck to compete with each other to gain the
consumer dollar. Many large retail skincare companies such as
Procter and Gamble who produce Olay are currently partnering with So how can strategy and strategic intent help us win the war of device manufacturers to introduce at-home electronic beauty devices competition and survival? Strategic thinking is about unraveling the as companions to their skincare. These devices will aim at ensuring mysteries of the chaotic world around us and harnessing powerful customers are guided to identify the right product to purchase from forces to our own end. It means utilising tools of analysis and tactics their range. This is also part of the “individualism” trend of giving the to take decisive and prudent action that gives us the best possible power of choice back to the consumer, which is what they are looking chance of achieving our objective – whether those objectives are for. These devices will include skin analysers to view skin condition professional or how to ensure our business will succeed. below visible levels, microcurrent and portable at home versions built
around light-based lasers and fractional technology to stimulate If you really want to study effective strategic manoeuvers you need to collagen product, target discolouration and improve skin texture. study some of the great wars. I have just complete a 26 week study on Some of these companies are touting that these devices will rival salon this subject and found it most fascinating. At the core of strategic results. One report stated that “The fact that individuals can carry thinking lies the ability to make timely decision and take appropriate out the treatment in the comfort of their home at a fraction of the price action to move forward. In order that our businesses are successful we it might cost them in a salon taps into the trend that more and more need to constantly evaluate the external and the internal environment consumers are switching from having expensive professional beauty and modify our strategy according to our arising needs. Effective treatments to carrying them out personally at home.”strategic intent is first about your purpose, and then what you need to
put in place to get to where you want to be.This trend is definitely a threat, but one that we cannot stop – it's called
progress. What we can do is increase our knowledge and expertise For example, take some of the global trends that we have just looked at and learn more about how the technologies we are using compare in and ask yourself – am I positioned correctly to deliver and meet on terms of strength and capabilities from the hand-held versions. As these consumer trends? Am I too focused on treatments and losing consumers become more educated you need to remain one step ahead
of them. Learn about the technology you are
using and provide your clients with credible
information on what your device can deliver over
the hand-held device. Incorporate various pre
and post-treatment protocols to enhance results
through a multi-disciplinarian approach using
various technologies to enhance results – micro-
needling, laser, LED, but gain the right education
to explain to your clients how this approach can
deliver deeper and longer-lasting treatment
results, while their home device can help support
those results.
Another consideration is that as consumers
become familiar with technologies they will
come to expect them also in the salon or clinic.
Equipment is therefore here to stay, so become
educated and familiar with your professional
options to ensure what you provide can rival
anything your client may be using at home.
–
their ,
APJ 55
potential income through appropriate skincare sales? Do my depends on the swift, bold and decisive execution of tactics. Change,
products suit the demands of my demographics? Can I confidently is at the core of moving forward as we are living in a constantly
promote my naturally derived performance ingredients. Are my changing world that does not allow us the luxury of standing still – for
products effective yet also pleasurable to use? Do they offer too long at least.
intelligent moisturisation? Are they multi-functional? Do I need to
change the way I speak about my products to reflect what research is And in closing let me leave you some thoughts that I think are very
saying consumers are looking for? Do I need to change my product important. You may be the best practitioner or even a great visionary,
because it no longer delivers what my clients are looking for and but in business you will not succeed until you learn to inspire others
willing to pay for? with your vision and transfer to others your passion in what you stand
for. While the right words are important in communicating, this takes
However, strategy is not about mechanical manoeuvres. Regardless more than a lovely statement on a piece of paper. Convincing others
of the area of endeavour the key to any successful strategy is an of the significance of your vision requires the reflection of credibility
overall sense of mission, what experts call strategic intent. Far from and conviction on your part. You need to live the inspiration before
an empty exercise, crafting a clear and meaningful mission statement you can effectively inspire and reflect it in others.
shapes the entire strategic plan process.
To do this you need to look after yourself and not burn yourself to the
However, the mission should be driving the strategy and only then ground where you are no long effective for your own good, let alone
will you achieve the outcome that reflects your most heartfelt for others. Psychologist and author Dr Larry Crabb puts it this way:
convictions. At the end of the day you have to believe in what you do “A vision that is delivered with passion and conviction allows other, to
and what you stand for so that you can gain the courage to persevere, realise what they can also become by embracing these values,
because success is more about passionate commitment, stickability especially when they echo what is also in their soul.”
and consistency and less about luck. Richard Branson recently said
on Linkedin at a university graduation ceremony. “The best advice I The power of such a vision can convince people to join you in the
could give any graduate is to spend your time working on whatever pursuit of what you believe in and what to achieve, and this will
you are passionate about in life. If your degree was focused upon one greatly enhance your chances for success. There is an interesting
particular area, don't let that stop you moving in another direction. If mathematical dynamic in the Bible that says “One can put a thousand
college hasn't worked out for you, don't let that put you off. Virgin's to flight, but two can put 10 thousand to flight”. This scripture teaches
expansion into so many different areas is borne out of my insatiable the power of synergy. When others get sold and involved in your
curiosity to enjoy new experiences and pursue fresh challenges that vision you will accomplish more than you ever dreamt of.
are driven by my sense of purpose and conviction.”
And another thing, good leaders don't achieve success on their own.
In today's competitive environment we need to be prudent by They usually succeed because of the people who are standing with
recognising what no longer works and have the courage to give it up them in support and contribution. So ask yourself, do I have a good
for new and better ways. Most of the failed businesses I see have a lot support structure that can offer me the kind of help and inspiration I
to do with procrastination and the fear of letting go what once worked need? If the answer is “I could do with some help then maybe APAN
for them but is no longer working today. can offer you valuable professional help and support. Don't forget, we
are also here to stand with you and help you achieve the success you
Successful strategy is dynamic, adaptive and opportunistic, and it are aiming for.
APJ 56
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APJ 58
DIFFERENT TYPES OF
BACTERIACOCCI BACTERIA –
BACILLI –
Bacteriology is the study of bacteria and is a subdivision of
microbiology – a branch of science dealing with the study of SPIROCHAETES, SPIRILLA AND VIBRIOS –microorganisms. These microorganisms include bacteria,
viruses and fungi. Understanding the fundamentals of ,bacteriology is becoming increasingly more important with the
rise in antibiotic resistance, emerging infectious disease, rapid
advances in biotechnology and environmental pollution.
Studying microbiology can be daunting because you must learn
many technical terms and become familiar with a huge variety of
microorganisms. However, gaining a basic understanding of the
various types of bacteria and their function is useful to the
aesthetics industry as it reinforces why infection-control
practices are so important for the health of the skin and indeed
the survival of the individual. Bacteria are invisible, yet powerful,
causing transmission of disease. In this article Gay Wardle lays
a foundation on the various types of bacteria, their physiology
and function.
MUREIN
GRAM-POSITIVE AND GRAM-NEGATIVE
Gram-positive –
Distribution of flagella may
cover the whole surface of
b a c t e r i a l c e l l s i n
distinguishing patterns,
although basically flagella
are either polar (where they
protrude from one or both
ends of the cell) or they are
peritrichous (where lateral
flagella is distributed over the
entire cell surface).
are
spherical or round in shape,
they can occur as a single cell
( c o c c u s ) , a s p a i r s
(diplococci), in clusters
(streptococci) or in chains
(staphylococci).
are rod-shaped or
shaped like a cylinder. Most
of the time these bacteria appear as single cells (bacillus).
are spiral bacteria that
have three different forms Spirochaetes, which look like a corkscrew,
Spirilla still in the shape of a corkscrew, but with a looser appearance,
and Vibrios, which are slightly curved rod-shaped cells.
Although most bacteria develop with characteristic shapes that help
with identification, the size of the cell depends on the source of
nutrients that is available.
The most characteristic structure of bacteria is the cell wall, which is
an essential structure for viability. The cell wall is one of the most
important sites for attack by antibiotics, as it provides ligands for
adherence and receptor sites for drugs and viruses. The cell wall also
provides immunological distinction and immunological variation
among strains of bacteria. Most bacteria have a cell wall that has a
rigid structure, which protects the cell protoplast from mechanical
damage and from osmotic rupture or lysis. Bacteria usually live in
dilute environments where the accumulation of solutes inside the cell
cytoplasm greatly exceeds the solute concentration in the outside environment. Most bacteria are able to survive and reproduce independently under a
wide range of environmental conditions. There are thousands of
species of bacteria, which can be differentiated on the basis of size,
shape morphology, staining characteristics, nutritional requirements, The osmotic pressure against the inside of the plasma membrane may biochemical activities, cell wall structure and the composition of their be the equivalent of 10-25 atmospheres. Bacterial murein is a unique RNA and DNA. type of peptidoglycan that is a polymer of sugars, which are cross-
linked by short chains of amino acids. All bacterial peptidoglycans A bacterial cell has essential structural components that are contain acetylmuramic acid, which is the definitive component of chromosome (DNA), ribosomes, cell membrane and the cell wall. murein. They vary significantly in their size and shape.
Bacteria cells that are capable of movement are called flagella. When looking at the composition of the cell wall, most bacteria can be Bacterial flagella are helically shaped structures containing the placed into two groups, which are Gram-negative or Gram-positive. protein flagellin, which are attached to the cells’ surface. The base of
the flagellum (the hook) near the cell surface is attached to the basal have a well-defined cell wall structure, which body enclosed in the cell envelope. The flagellum rotates in a
determines their reaction in the staining procedure. The Gram stain clockwise or counterclockwise direction, in a motion similar to that of procedure contains a distaining step where the cells are washed with a propeller that allows the cell to have a swimming movement.
THE TENACITY OF BACTERIA Understanding the anatomy and physiology of how bacteria are formed and surviveBy Gay Wardle
understandingbacteria
APJ 59
an acetone-alcohol mixture. The lipid content of the Gram-negative passage of substances into the cell and out of the cell. It controls the
wall affects the outcome of this step, so that Gram-positive cells retain life in the cytoplasm, separating it from the outside environment.
a primary stain where Gram-negative cells are destained.
A bacterial plasma membrane allows passage of water and smaller
uncharged molecules into the interior of the cell, but it does not allow retain a crystal violet colour in the Gram-stain passage of larger molecules or charged substances, except when procedure. They are bound by a single unit lipid membrane where monitored by proteins in the membrane called transport systems.they generally contain a thick layer of peptidoglycan, which is
responsible for retaining the Gram-stain.The presence of transport systems in the membranes allows the
bacteria to accumulate solutes and chemical precursors of cell has numerous different peptide material inside their cytoplasm at concentrations, which exceed the
arrangements among peptidoglycans where there is an occurrence of concentrations in the environment. Be mindful that environment
an interpeptide bridge of amino acids that connect nearby side chains bacteria live in a diluted environment, where the concentrations of
to one another. Teichoic acids which are polysaccharides attach molecules are greater inside the cell than it is outside the cell.
themselves to the peptidoglycan. This is the main component of Therefore bacteria cells must transport their nutrients from the
Gram-positive cell walls that create a negative charge that influences environment and maintain a higher concentration of solutes inside the
the passage of materials in and out of the cell.cell than outside the cell.
are more sensitive to penicillin because the The most important transport system of a bacteria cell is active
peptidoglycan is not protected by an outer membrane and it is a more transport, where there is a requirement for energy and concentrated
abundant molecule. substances inside of the cell. These active transport systems are
mediated by proteins in the membrane called carrier proteins, which have a more complex outer structure than that of are very specific for the substances that will be transported.
Gram-positive bacteria. The cell wall consists of a much thinner layer
of peptidoglycan, which is covered by an outer membrane. This outer Bacteria cells do not have intracellular organelles that produce energy, membrane contains lipopolysaccharide, which is toxic to animals. they are conducted through the cytoplasmic membrane, which is very This outer membrane is considered part of the cell wall in a Gram- different to other cells where organelles within the cell produces the negative bacteria. The peptidoglycan molecule can be cleaved by an energy.enzyme called lysozyme, which is present in tissues, secretions and
phagocyte granules. Lysozyme function is to rupture bacterial cells as
a defence against bacterial pathogens. An electron transport system operates by establishing a pH gradient
across the membrane by an accumulation of protons outside and Gram-positive bacteria are very sensitive to lysozyme and the enzyme hydroxyl ion inside. When this happens the outside is acidic and the is quite active at low concentrations, whereas Gram-negative are less inside is alkaline. Therefore the outer part of the membrane becomes vulnerable to attack by lysozyme because their peptidoglycan is charged positive, while the inner part becomes charge negative, shielded by the outer membrane.creating a membrane with a positive and a negative side just like a
battery. This creates active transport in and out of cell. Like the cell Because of this outer membrane in Gram-negative bacteria they have wall, the plasma membrane is a vital part of the cell life and is very a general resistance to antibiotics (the opposite to Gram-positive susceptible to becoming damaged. bacteria).
The structural integrity of bacterial cells is
reliant upon the cell wall remaining intact.
Any substance that can break the cell wall,
as in penicillin, will destroy the bacteria.
There are very few strains of bacteria that
can live without a cell wall.
Just underneath the cell wall is where we
find the plasma membrane. This plasma
membrane has a similar structure in all
cells, including bacterial cells, where it has
a double layer of phospholipid molecule
(phospholipid bilayer).
The difference with a bacterial plasma
membrane is that there are 60% proteins
and 40% phospholipid, whereas other cell
plasma membrane contain sterols and
carbohydrates as well as protein and lipids.
The plasma membranes is a very dynamic
structure within the cell. The primary
function of the plasma membrane is that it
is a permeability barrier that regulates the
Gram-positive –
A Gram-positive bacteria –
Gram-positive bacteria –
Gram-negative –
BACTERIA AND POLARITY
STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF
BACTERIA
, ,
In summary bacterial plasma membranes synthesise cell wall
components, regulate cellular respiration and synthesis of ATP and
secrete proteins and enzymes that are released from the cell itself.
The cytoplasm of bacterial cells consists of an aqueous solution with a
mixture of protein, lipids, carbohydrates and salts. The primary
structural components found in the cytoplasm are the nucleoid,
ribosomes and there could be some type of inclusion. The cytoplasm
is more of a gel substance than that of other cells.
The nucleoid is one large circular molecule of DNA and is free in the
cytoplasm, although it can be coiled and anchored by proteins. This is
the genetic control centre of the cell that determines all the properties
and functions of the bacteria cell and sometimes the cell will have
extra pieces of DNA called plasmids. Plasmids will replicate
independently of the main DNA, although replication of bacterial
DNA is coordinated by the plasma membrane and proteins in the
cytoplasm.
Ribosomes are composed of proteins and RNA and are responsible for
the granular appearance of bacteria cytoplasm. Ribosomes in
bacterial cells are smaller than ribosomes in other cells and they are
involved in the process of protein synthesis.
Inclusion granules are often contained in the cytoplasm of bacteria
cells and they are distinct granules that may occupy a substantial part
of the cytoplasm.
Inclusion granules are usually reserve materials and some inclusion
bodies are actually membranous vesicles or intrusions into the
cytoplasm, which contain photosynthetic pigments or enzymes.
When a bacterial structure sometimes observed as an inclusion is
actually a type of dormant cell called an endospore. Endospores
exhibit no signs of life and are described as being cryptobiotic. They
are usually Gram-positive bacilli, but not always. They are highly
resistant to environmental stresses such as high temperature (some
endospores can be boiled for hours and retain their viability),
irradiation, strong acids, disinfectants, etc. They are probably the
most durable cell produced in nature, retaining viability indefinitely
and under extreme environmental conditions can germinate back into
vegetative cells. They can germinate and become vegetative cells
when the environmental stress is relieved. Endospore formation is a
mechanism of survival rather than a mechanism of reproduction.
Classification of bacteria cells includes spore formation, cell wall
structure, Gram-stain, shape, motility and biochemical properties and
includes information obtained from the composition of the DNA and
ribosomal RNA.
It is very difficult to isolate because there are mixtures of normal flora,
invading pathogen, blood, sputum and pus in most samples. Agar
plates are used to grow and cultivate single colonies for easier
identification.
In reviewing the physiology of bacteria and how resistant they are in
their survival allows us to understand the importance of infection
control and prevention of disease throughout our practices.
rdLee G., & Bishop P., (2006) Microbiology 3 Edition
Todar K., Bacteriology
Dermatology (2004)
Rodriguez-Carmona E., (2010) Microbial Cell
Webster P., (2006) Cytoplasmic Bacteria
CONCLUSION
REFERENCES
APJ 60
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Gay Wardle has launched a new training MASTERCLASS
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APJ 62
You know about skin and pH, yet did you ever stop to think about
what makes this pH of the skin and where it comes from? Did you
know what you think you know about the subject may be
incorrect? In this article Terry Everitt gets down into the skin and
explains many points about pH and skin and contests the often
made claim that the skin is at pH 5.5.
WHAT NEW STUDIES REVEAL
The work by the above authors collectively showed a range between
4.1 and 7.5 (from the outer epidermis to the lower layers of the
epidermal layers). Thus a mean (average) was 5.5 over the entire
epidermal structure. This simply means an approximate between the
two extremes found. However, the biggest study that I am aware of
was published in 2007 with findings of a mean average of 4.9 pH.
What makes this more relevant and the findings more rigorous is that
it was a large study of 222 volunteers (147 female and 75 male healthy As you are aware, the skin has many functions, many of which are Caucasians) spread over seven different geographical testing centres from the role of the epidermis. One of these roles is protection from (Segger et al 2007). Previous studies had been on a small subject base chemical, microbial and climatic assault. Two of the main protection using various measurements and parameters. This study by Segger et measures are the physical and chemical state of the epidermal al (2007) puts the natural pH of the skin much lower that the stratums. Of the chemical, the most important is the so called 'acid previously accepted mean of 5.5 to a more acidic 4.9 pH. This of mantle'. course has implications as to the marketing claim 'pH balanced'.
Mind you, my question to that claim has always been “balanced to The acid mantle is composed of a number of individual components what?”collectively termed the NMF (natural moisturising factor); chemicals
such as urea, PCA, urocanic acid and lactate, which themselves come It is interesting in looking at various studies; those before 2007 relate from difference sources such as perspiration, keratinocyte breakdown the corneum pH at approx. 5.5 while those studies post 2008 tend to and sebum. articulate the corneal pH lower and in a range 4.5-5.5, while
concentrating on endogenous factors affecting skin pH. It has been
widely reported that the epidermal skin has a range of actual pH levels
with an alkaline Stratum Basalie (7.8) to the Stratum Corneum (4.5-Science has known of the skin’s acidic state since 1892, when Heuss 5.5). This implies that a change of more than 2 pH units occurs over a first published his work in a German dermatological publication. distance of only about 10 m in the epidermis (normal thickness of Since then a number of studies (Blank 1939, Ohman and Vahlquist human Stratum Corneum) and from optimal pH for both keratinocyte 1994, Zlotogorski 1995, Barel et al 2001, Boelsma et al 2003) have and fibroblast proliferation between pH 7.2 and 8.3 (Sharpe et al, been published (with multiple variables within the studies) on the 2009) to the corneum range of 4.2-5. This has a number of major skin’s pH and what it is as a metric on the pH scale. effects in terms of wound healing, but that is another story.
Many believe the pH of the (facial) skin is 5.5, which is still seen in An even greater variance is found on the skin in various parts of the current literature; a number given as an absolute, which is incorrect.
New Research findings on
The role of the SKIN'S pHBy Terry Everitt
New Research findings on
The role of the SKIN'S pHBy Terry Everitt
APJ 63
body – intertriginous areas as an example generally have higher pH There are many different syndets
readings. (Remember the higher the pH the more alkaline it is.) available and usually used in
conjunction with emulsifiers and
We know that the face has anatomical variation of pH, sebum and humectants, adding to the
hydration, which are related to differences in biophysical specificities positive effect of the product,
of the skin. A study by Marrakchi & Maibach (2007) in looking at which are very useful for dry,
various regions of the face concluded that “the chin pH was the most mature or compromised skin and
alkaline area in both age groups [mean ages were 29 and 74 age in dermatological conditions
groups]. The forehead and upper eyelid showed the lowest pH values from a study published in 2006
in both groups; however, the forehead, upper eyelid, neck and forearm which concluded “Syndet use
showed significantly higher pH values in the older group. In the r e d u c e d t h e s e v e r i t y o f
remaining areas studied, the pH was also higher in the older group, eczematous lesions, improved
although not statistically significant” (p 33). As other studies have skin condition and maintained
confirmed this, it is accepted that an older skin is less acidic than a hydration. Overall, the results of
younger one. These may account for the ease of tissue destruction in this study indicate that syndet
this age group. This chart I have constructed from the above study formulations are compatible with
indicates the different pH values of the areas of the study. t h e t h e r a p y o f A t o p i c
Dermatitis”. (Solodkin et al,
2006.)
Most of the currently available
effective cleansing products are
syndet based for the efficient
removal of surface impurities due
to the surfactant action. It is
therefore important to use an
a c i d i c - b a s e d c l e a n s e r t o
minimise the pH change of the
skin.
In simple terms, if the pH
increases (by an alkaline The stratum corneum pH regulates at least three epidermal functions:
application) the skin will try and the antimicrobial barrier, permeability barrier, homeostasis and
return to an acidic state, and barrier integrity/cohesion. We know that the skin's acidic properties
conversely, if the pH is lowered play critical roles in skin flora regulation, barrier homeostasis and
(by acidic application) the skin sensitising skin to cleansing products.
will try to return to normal acidic
values (in this case using an alkaline buffer). The pH (potential hydrogen) is actually a measurement of hydronium
ion concentration. The pH value expresses the negative logarithmic NHE1 [see side bar] plays a major role in this buffering. This protein
scale for the effective concentration of H+-ions in solution (pH = allows rapid exchange of Sodium and Hydrogen ions, generally
¡log[H+]). This is very changeable dependent on the skin biochemical exchanging a proton for an extracellular sodium ion.
fluctuations and what is applied to the skin. The skin tries to maintain a
balance in pH concentration with a lower than neutral acidic Actually, a lot of the skin’s pH comes from fatty acids (particularly
homeostatic balance, via a very effective buffering system. phospholipids breaking down to free fatty acids) and ceramides,
which has a delicate chemical feedback mechanism going on, as Interesting studies by Roth and James (1989) and repeated by Schid
increased pH results in defective lipid processing, effecting not only and Korting (1995) showed that when washing with 'natural' soap the
pH, yet more importantly the lipid bilayers of the cells and the propionibacteria (bacteria most effecting acne) levels increased, yet
intracellular spaces of the epidermis. decreased levels were found post washing with acidic synthetic
detergents. Studies showed post washing twice a day for four weeks Two of the enzymes that are responsible for this lipid processing, β-
with an alkaline soap that propionibacteria concentration on the glucocerebrosidase (hydrolyzes glucosylceramides to ceramides) and 2forehead increased from 9.00 to ~ 10.00/cm This contrasted with , acid sphingomyelinase, responsible for hydrolysing sphingomyelin to
2those using the acidic wash with a decrease from 8.6 to ~ 7.5 cm . ceramides, are most active at an acidic pH.
An important point to note here is not to use alkaline soap on an acneic An increased pH of the Stratum Corneum reduces the activity of these skin; exactly what your younger clients will be doing at home. two key lipid-processing enzymes, leading to a failure to form
functionally competent, lamellar bilayers. This results in the Aβmus et al (2013) showed the effects of pH change in the skin from incomplete lipid processing and defective lamellar membranes, cleansing – with a single cleanse with soap leading to an increase in which then provide many 'knock on effects' such as increased pH of 1.5 – 3 units (that is a 1.5 to 3 number increase from 4 pH to 5.5 transepidermal water loss (TEWL), leading to dehydrated epidermis. to 7 pH). In contrast a pH balanced product using syndets [see side
bar], elevated the pH 0.5. Water alone changed the pH level up 1.07 On the other hand some enzymes require higher pH level to be units. Remembering that each unit on the pH scale is 100 times effective. The serine protease group are examples – the two main ones different. being Stratum Corneum Chymotryptic Enzyme (SCCE) and Stratum
Corneum Trypsin Enzyme (SCTE). These are required as they
THE DANGERS OF ALKALINE PRODUCTS ON ACNEIC
SKIN
Buffer solutions contain a
weak acid and its conjugated
base where 50% of it is
dissociated. This is turn
relates to the pKa (the
negative of the logarithm of
the acid dissociation constant
[Ka]). This is the true measure
of acidic strength, not the pH.
+ +NHE1 (standing for Na /H
exchanger or a sodium/proton
pump and the first of seven
discovered) is a 500 amino
acid protein.
Syndets (stands for synthetic
detergents) are very effective
mild anionic surfactants
(sometimes referred to as
tensioactive agents) while the
initial ones did have irritancy
concerns with some people,
current chemistry has made
them to be non-irritating, even
the ones made with Sodium
Laureth Sulfate, a chemical
with undeserved bad press,
effectively used to treat
dermatological conditions.
The authors cite many other studies that also showed the same outcome.
dissolve peptide bonds of protein Use of acidic, not alkaline products on the
(keratin), allowing desquamation. skin will help maintain the appropriate skin
It is essential for these enzymes to pH l eve l s , t he reby ma in ta in ing
have a less acidic milieu to aid the homeostasis and integrity of the epidermal
shedding of corneocytes, which chemical barrier.
helps regulate the functions of the
deeper epidermal layers. This One simple way of getting the pH back into
extensive difference in pH occurs balance and keeping it there is the daily use
within the epidermal layers, which I of a vitamin that is common in skin
find is completely amazing. products and helps with pro-collagen
matrix. Have you guessed which one?
Disturbance of the barrier function Aligned to this is a preparation shown in
creates a host of concerns. Chief laboratory testing to be effective on
among these is the production of decreasing pH levels yet not too low is a
inflammatory cytokines, which mix of citric acid/ammonium citrate buffer,
inc rease in f lammat ion and while being non-reactive in terms of
consequent damage to the cellular irritation. I really think that this and other
functioning. Dermatoses such as pH buffering systems will become a
eczema, atopic dermatitis and mainstay in mature skincare.
seborrheic dermatitis are all related
to increased pH levels in the outer Keeping the skin in an acidic pH level is so
layers of the skin. important – as much as the corneocytes
provide a physical barrier, the chemical
Another pathway resulting in barrier relies so heavily on a bit of acidity,
homeostasis of the pH system is which in turn helps with the physical
from filaggrin breakdown to barrier. Acidic skin values help maintain
urocanic acid and such components. the milieu for enzyme action for correct
You may have heard of PCA, which lipid structure.
made its appearance in skincare in
the 1990s – PCA (pyrrolidone While it is possible during treatments to
carboxylic acid) is from the action have the skin in an alkaline state, it is
of histidase on the histidine amino critically important that you adjust the skin
acid as an outcome of keratohyalin to its natural acidic state at the end of a
granules breakdown in the Stratum treatment.
Granulosum.
Barel, A. Lambrecht, R. Clarys, P. Morrison, B. Payne,
M. 2001. 'A comparative study of the effects on the skin of a classical bar soap', 'Skin A major factor when working with mature skin is the slowdown of the Research and Technology, Vol. 7, pp. 98-104.epidermal turnover rate, which slows down the keratohyalin and other Blank, I. A. 1939. 'Measurement of pH of the skin surface', Journal of Investigative
functions of the normal skin epithelisation process, in part due to Dermatology, Vol. 2, pp. 75-79.
SCCE and SCTE. This in turn increases the pH levels (that is less Boelsma, E. Van der Vijer, L. Goldbohm, A. Klopping-Ketelaars, I. Hendricks, H. Rosza,
acidic) resulting from the decrease of PCA and ceramides availability. L. 2003. 'Human skin conditions and its associations with nutrient concentrations in This is in addition to the slowdown of NHE1expression as previously serum and diet' American Journal of Clinical Nutrition. Vol.77, pp. 348-355. mentioned. Heuss, E.1892. 'Die Reaktion des Schweisses beim gesunden Menschen'. Monatsschr
Prakt Dermatology, Vol 14, pp.343-501.
MarrakchI, S. and Maibach, H. 2007, 'Biophysical parameters of skin: map of human A common concern with mature skin is the ease of desquamation. This face, regional, and age-related differences', Contact Dermatitis. Vol .57, pp. 28-34.is due to activation of the pH dependent serine proteases (which do Ohman, H. and Vahlquist, A. 1994. 'In vivo studies concerning a pH gradient in human best in a neutral pH environment) that cause increased and premature stratum corneum and upper epidermis', Acta Dermatology and Venereology, Vol 74, destruction of corneodesmosomes, thus unstable connection between pp. 375-379.
the epidermal cells allowing a quicker desquamative removal. Schimd, M and Korting, H. 1995. 'The concept of the acid mantle of the skin: it relevance
for the choice of skin cleansers', Journal of Dermatology, Vol. 191, pp. 276-280.An increase in pH allows a greater colonisation of microbes as the Segger, D. Aβmus, U. Brock, M. Erasmy, J. Finkel, P. Fitzner, A. Heuss, H. Kortemeir, U. imbalance allows a greater variety of microbes to inhabit the skin. Munke, S. Rheinlander, T. Schmidt-Lewerkuhne, H. Schneider, W. and Weser, G. 2007. Additionally, the increasing pH levels result in lipid processing being 'Multicenter Study on Measurement of the Natural pH of the Skin', International
disrupted, particularly the lamellar membranes that are so important Federation of Societies of Cosmetic Chemists, Vol. 10, No. 2, pp 107-110.
Sharpe, J. Harris, K. Jubin, K. Bainbridge, N. and Jordan, N. 2009. 'The effect of pH in in formation of the multilamellar lipid composition of the intracellular modulating skin cell behaviour', British Journal of Dermatology, Vol. 161, pp. 671- 673.spaces; the 'mortar' of Elias's Brick and Mortar conceptualisation of Solodkin, G. Chaudhari, U. Subramanyan, K. Johnson, A.W. Yan, X. Gottlieb, A. 2006. the epidermal structure. An interesting side issue is that while the total 'Benefits of mild cleansing: synthetic surfactant based (syndet) bars for patients amount of lipids decrease, the relative proportions of the different with atopic dermatitis', Cutis, Vol. 77, No. 5, pp.17-24.
classes remain stable.Roth, R. and James, W. 1989. 'Microbiology of the skin: resident flora, ecology,
infections', Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology. Vol. 20, issue 3, pp. 367-As the acidic protection of the skin decreases with increasing pH, we 386.get permeability barrier disruption, decrease in skin integrity and Zlotogorski, A. Dikstein, S. 1995. '-Measurement in skin surface pH', in Serjup, J. and increased microbial infections. Additionally we see increased Jemec, G. (eds.), Handbook of Non-invasive Methods and the Skin, CRC Press, Boca
Raton. sensitivity to contact irritants – particularly, skincare products that are
not rich in emollients.
REFERENCES
OLDER SKIN NEEDS ACID
APJ 64
THE NEW FACE OF
PUBLIC RELATIONSand how it can TRANSFORM A BRAND
THE NEW FACE OF
PUBLIC RELATIONSand how it can TRANSFORM A BRAND
APJ 66
Gill Fish is the founder and Managing Director of Brand New
Solutions, Australia's leading Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing
and Beauty PR Agency, and a highly skilled, innovative and
astute PR professional and businesswoman. For her expertise
and wisdom we are delighted that she is also a valuable member
of APAN's National Advisory Council – an external independent
body that offers expert advice and recommendations to the
directors of APAN.
Gill embodies three key qualities – integrity, an amazing work APJ Q2. The traditional role of PR is changing with both ethic and a highly professional approach to all that she journalists and PR professionals struggling to survive. undertakes. She is fiercely loyal and committed to her clients, What are the changes you have observed and how are ensuring the companies that she represent receive the very
highest standard of service that will help them achieve you evolving to meet the needs of a changing world?prominence and success for their brand, regardless of how Gill:competitive the marketplace is for them.
Despite the GFC and while other PR agencies and journalists are
experiencing tough times, Brand New Solutions continues to
experience unprecedented growth. This has been as a result of
staying current to market trends and implementing cutting-edge
innovative strategies that has propelled Brand New Solutions as
leaders in their field of expertise.
In this interview we have attempted to capture the essence of
this incredible woman and to share with you her highly
inspirational story and amazing approach to life and work. This
article also unveils how the concept of PR is changing and how a
successful PR campaign can transform a business and give a
brand global recognition.
APJ Q1: Gill share with us a little about your background
and how you got involved in the world of media?
Gill:
restructuring ailing publications that had lost their way. The love of
media was truly in my veins.
When I arrived in Australia I joined a community newspaper that had
been losing money for years and, together with the team, we turned
that around in 18 months.
I then decided to start my own business, working with media from the
outside in. And so Brand New Solutions was born in 2002. To this day
I have never been inside another PR agency.
The advent of the Internet and social media coupled with the
GFC has changed the media landscape, and thus the PR industry
dramatically. Prior to these events, advertising revenue in traditional
media (print and TV) was abundant, with large 'book sizes) ie fat
magazines, robust newspapers, all with abundant space for editorial.
Now things have changed. The expansion of revenue and audience
attention to online websites and social media means that traditional
media has shrunk and in some instances closed. Newspaper
readership is shrinking, but the online versions are growing. Similarly,
magazines are suffering the same fate, with reduced staff numbers,
except in the field of health, which continues to see new launches. By
the same token, budgets were abundant and PR was seen as a nice
thing to have, adding an edge of status to a client. Now status doesn't
count – either the agency delivers tangible results, cost-effectively, or
they are out.
All this creates opportunities for PR practitioners who have adapted to
this change. These days, successful PR practitioners need to think like
journalists. We need to think smart and work fast and develop great
story ideas that achieve media cut-through. The days of doing a mass
sendout of product to media on one day are also numbered. To be
successful as a practitioner 1:1 tailored pitching is required in order to I was inspired to join the world of media by my mother, who be successful.
herself became a journalist at the age of 59. Zelda had had been an
accountant all her life, but always had the gift of the word, citing Take a skincare brand for example – a good PR practitioner Shakespeare, writing poetry and being interested in news and the understands the pathways of dermatopause and skin ageing; the wellbeing of her fellow mankind. In her late 50s, circumstances in her mechanisms of ingredients and delivery systems; who the key opinion life changed and an opportunity was presented to her to join leaders in the industry are to draw comment from. Cosmopolitan magazine as PA to the Editor (in those days the
magazine was quite different to what is now) – and the rest is history. With the growth in beauty opportunities through online news portals,
the turnaround needs to be lightning quick. Similarly, the advent of Within a short space of time Zelda had found her niche, winning natural, eco-friendly and sustainable products requires us to be up to several industry awards for outstanding journalism as a leading date with these trends, what they mean, enabling us to get cut-through financial and investigative writer, and this really inspired me. I used to for our clients in a highly competitive market. Our journalistic input visit her at the Cosmopolitan offices in Cape Town after uni a few days can help define and determine the fine detail of a story.a week and I was in awe of the buzz on the floor of the magazine. It was
fast, colourful, cutting edge and fun. From that point, I knew I wanted Social and online media has also provided a tangible and measurable to join a magazine. vehicle for clients to see growth. Traffic to websites can be measured
and community engagement is clear to see. This differs from the I completed a Bachelor of Social Science majoring in Psychology and traditional media of, say, six years ago, and provides clients with tools Languages (UCT, Cape Town), followed by an international Diploma that they value investing in. Social media is PR's biggest competitor in in Advertising (AAA, Cape Town) and the day after I completed my terms of dollar spend. Diploma I commenced my first job as a Fashion Assistant on
fortnightly FairLady Magazine, at the time South Africa's highest Most importantly, we need to understand our clients' needs and take circulating female/general interest magazine. the time to educate them about our needs in order to be effective. It is a
partnership that works in harmony.Over the next 12 years (with a break or two) I worked my way up to
Managing Editor of FairLady, finally leaving the magazine in 2000 to Traditional functions such as newsletter writing and annual report migrate to Australia with my husband. By that time I had specialised in writing among other standard PR practices still remains the same.
APJ 67
APJ Q3. In just one paragraph what is Brand New
Solutions' mission and purpose, and what do you aim to
achieve for your clients that is uniquely different in our
times? APJ Q7. What is the best business decision you ever Gill: made?
Gill:
APJ Q8. Give us an example of a phenomenal success
breakthrough for a client and how did you achieve it?
Gill:APJ Q4. How do you and your team conceptualise a new
creative and competitive idea or approach for your
clients?
Gill:
APJ Q5. What qualities do you look for in a
staff member and how do you choose team
players that will complete the dynamic mix that
constitutes the BNS Team?
Gill:
APJ Q6. What are your most effective work habits you
have recently adopted?
Gill:
industries, provides a powerful combination to help us to understand
our task at hand in a 360° way and thus ensures that we drive
successful campaigns.
As Australia's only specialist Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing
and Beauty PR Agency our aim is to continue to advance our in-depth The best business decision I have ever made was to attend a learning about Preventative Health and Beauty in order to help us
medical conference in Prevention to learn with doctors and generate best PR; share our vast industry knowledge and contacts with
practitioners about issues relating to health and beauty. This kick our clients to deliver successful PR campaigns that generate credible
started my now in-depth knowledge in this field and that has set us as newsworthy content to media that creates cut-through in a timely
the leader in the field of Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty fashion; leverage off our wide network of industry key opinion
PR. leaders; providing positive input to the profile building and growth of
our clients' brands and become an indispensable extension of their
businesses.
We have had many successful campaigns during our 10.5 years
in practice.
In 2003 we launched Jane Iredale – The Skincare Makeup to the media. This was the first-ever mineral makeup launched in Australia Upon briefing by a client, which must include more than
handover of product and brochures, but an in-depth verbal discussion, and at the time the media needed to be educated about the benefits of
we deconstruct the brand/product down to its very core, to define a set pure minerals (paraben and phthalate free, mineral rich). We
of angles that may not be obvious at first glance. We segment the commenced with a launch event that Jane Iredale attended and
media landscape into target markets that are relevant to that client and followed on with a campaign, which ran for close on five years. In the
for each segment define an approach that we believe that specific set beginning it took time and perseverance, educating the media about
of journalists will relate to. Our out of the box thinking as
well as understanding of the forces of online and offline
media and social media is what gives us the edge.
Our PR team works like a jigsaw puzzle, different
people with different interests – ranging from Anti-Ageing
Medicine to Preventative Health and Beauty. Some are
required to crossover from Health to Beauty and vice
versa. The common denominator through all is passion for
media and generating story ideas and media coverage;
attention to detail so that the journalist receives
information that is accurate and easy to understand; an
ability to work smart in a fast-paced (often short-lead
deadline news) environment; a value for honesty, integrity
and exceptional client service; an understanding and
respect for the commercial realities of our clients' and our
business and, as importantly, the ability to have fun along
the way.
the concept of mineral makeup, about each ingredient and their
function in skin health and beauty, and the media loved the brand. We
secured significant coverage with great outcomes and the company
I am an early riser – 5.30am each day – to read the news, local and experienced strong growth.
international, tap into any stories I think are relevant for our clients to Another client success story commenced in November 2008 when I tag on to; going out to consumer/community events on a regular basis was introduced to the Managing Director of The Rosehip gives one a perspective on what it is that drives consumers in Specialists™, distributing a product called Rose-Hip Vital with purchasing decisions, what their challenges, wants and wishes are; GOPO®. At the time it was a small company with a handful of touching base with our clients on a regular basis, not necessarily for a employees distributing a Danish natural anti-inflammatory averaging specific reason, but just to see how their business is tracking, enables a couple of – hundred bottles a month, supported by some sporadic us to be sensitive to their needs and to any issues that may be on the advertising that delivered little success. horizon regarding the campaign, spend or other business
developments. It also signals we are here to add value. All this Four and a half years later, with 16 TV stories (yes, 16!), countless information, combined with our in-depth knowledge of the media print and online coverage, some of the health leaders in the industry landscape as well as the Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty
APJ 68
happy to support the product claims, distribution through 4500+ water first, show them the results and then up-sell them later on when
stores, the campaign has been an outstanding success and has broken they are confident.
all PR records. The company has seen meteoric growth.
Three hundred and sixty degree thinking is key to our success. We
Off the back of that success, 2012 saw the launch of a new beauty have to show an understanding of their business needs and the media's
brand, RosehipPLUS (whose name we developed), as well as Rose- needs and combine both of those to produce value. Our client service ® skills are key to this in our meetings, phone conversations and emails. Hip Vital Canine, with Equine soon to follow.
It is critical to demonstrate value and engender trust.
The brand has been referred to by some of the powerhouses in the
industry as 'coming out of nowhere'. Our strategy was to deconstruct
the product concept and find the unique value and newsworthiness in
each case, engage advocates (user and KOL) and use our journalistic My business philosophy is 'I am only as good as my team'. Each ability to harness the power of media for significant success. To this
team member plays a vital role in the business. If I had to choose one day we have never had an official launch event!person though, I guess that would be me. I have the knowledge and the vision that gives us the edge in the industry and that guides the team
from day-to-day.
Today marketing is vastly different to days gone by. The advent
of digital enables short, sharp turnaround, costeffective campaigns
and the ability to measure success in a more tangible way. While the When I do get downtime, not often at this stage, I like to spend principles of marketing remain the same ie finding out what
time with my husband – we go into the country for a breath of fresh air, consumers want and then providing for them, these days tools are or to some of Sydney's fabulous organic markets, just enjoying the available to engage in a speedy manner. Qualitative and Quantitative pleasures of living in Australia. I enjoy people watching to get a feel research is still the norm. Now we can add online research to that mix for what makes people tick. I like to read about health and food trends eg Survey Monkey for short, sharp pieces of information. Marketing as well as property. I also like to travel, to see my family in South for the bottom line is still the final goal. However, the tools have Africa – it is a colourful, vibrant and energetic society that is like evolved. The integration of PR and Marketing has evolved and oxygen in my body.synergies are seen between both modalities of building a business.
I want Brand New Solutions to continue to stay ahead of the pack Take a detailed client brief, including an understanding of the as the leader in Preventative Health, Anti-Ageing and Beauty PR in product/service as well as their business goals (brand building vs Australia, and to be able to utilise all tools available to us to help our driving sales) for the short, medium and long termclients' grow their businesses – media, social media, activations, Deconstruct the concept down to its core and marry concepts to networking and associations. the different angles of the media
Have ongoing contact with the client to ensure that we know what As such I need to ensure that we keep abreast of industry and brand
is happening in their business trends and developments. I also want to ensure that we have our finger
on the pulse in terms of what is happening in media, as the landscape As the campaign evolves, so the sky is the limit. We are only limited by
changes each and every day. For that I need to continue to ensure I ourselves. I like to push the boundaries, think outside of the square,
have the right people on the team in order to harness the potential.break the mould of traditional PR thinking in order to achieve
exceptional results.We have exciting times ahead in an industry that is growing fast, in a
time of economic uncertainty. I need to nurture what I have and stay
ahead of the market in order to keep our edge and to secure new
business.
I am honoured to sit on the Advisory Board for APAN contributing to
the PR and Marketing needs of the industry. I have also been invited to
talk at the CHC (Complementary Healthcare Council) about the
power of media in CM (Complementary Medicine) and how to
harness it. I look forward to sharing some insights with the leaders in Post GFC budgets have tightened up, and while clients trust us, this industry.our knowledge in the industry and our recommendations, they all
want to know they are getting value for money. Some have been burnt PR is forever evolving – it is a landscape that shifts and slides each day in the past and others struggle to understand the benefits of PR. As – those who win understand their clients' needs and are able to marry such, in order to allay their concerns, we have to have short-term that with the needs of the media for potent success.measurement tools to show them we are getting results that matter to
their business.
For that reason we have a fortnightly WIP (work in progress) report
that enables them to see what we are doing. Sometimes, if we are
trialling a concept that is new to them, we have to dip our toe in the
APJ Q12. Who is the most important person in your
business?
Gill:
APJ Q9. How has marketing a brand changed over the
past five years?
Gill: APJ Q13. How do you relax, re-energise yourself and refuel
your creativity?
Gill:
APJ Q14. What is your growth strategy in the next two APJ Q10. Give us a typical outline of your fundamental
years and what do you want Brand New Solutions to approach in to build a brand's identity and profile?
achieve?Gill: Our initial approach to any campaign is similar:
Gill:
APJ Q11. Do you ever experience reservations from
companies to trust their brand to your professional
recommendations and expertise, and how skilful do you
need to be to assist a client through the transition of
change for the purpose of achieving growth and
progress?
Gill:
Gillian Fish can be contacted on
Ph: 0400 200 441 | 02 8356 9595 or
APJ 69
plant cellsstem
APJ 70
There is a lot of controversy as to whether plant stem cells work
in skincare and the good news is yes, they do work in the
epidermis, but in a very different way that human stem cells
work, and this has led to a lot of misinformation about what they
can and cannot do when it comes to skincare formulations. In
this article Michael Pugliese explains how human and plant cells
differ and identifies the capabilities of both. If you are using
skincare that is based on stem cell technology this article will
help you separate fact from fiction and allow you to gain the
scientific perspective on the subject.
separate cells; let us call them A and B. Cell A will remain an active
ectodermal stem cell with full capabilities to become any number of
other types of cells, while Cell B is now irreversibly programmed to
become a skin cell. At first it starts out as a keratinocytoblast in the
skin and resides forever in the bottom layer, also called the basal layer;
for short we call the keratinocytoblast a basal cell.
Cell B will now continue to differentiate, that is, make the necessary
internal changes physically and chemically to eventually become a
stratum corneum cell. Once the cell starts to differentiate, it can no
longer stop the process until it has finally achieved the end stage, that
is, a cornified cell.
Stem cells are special cells in the body that provide a continuous Endodermal cells can select from a variety of pathways but they are
source of new cells – they have two unique features: they are limited to the gastrointestinal tract and all its associated organs. The
unspecialised, which retains the ability of self-renewal by cell mesodermal cells are the lucky guys. They can choose to become a
division, almost without limit. They also have the ability to become variety of cells ranging from bone to blood, they can stay put in one
specific cells of a particular tissue or organ. For example, in the place or they can choose to wander about the body forever. For
intestine, they constantly replace wornout cells that line the intestinal instance, a mesodermal cell that chooses the pathway to be a blood cell
surface.has six different roadways to follow.
There are many types of stem cells, but the two basic kinds of stem First it must decide to be a red cell or a white blood cell. Now there is
cells are called embryonic stem cells and somatic stem cells.just one roadway for becoming a red cell, but five roadways for
becoming a white cell. It can become a neutrophile, a basophile, an The embryonic stem cells are more primitive, in that they have a
eosinophile, a monocyte or a lymphocyte. Whatever road, or pathway, greater capability of dividing into many different kinds of cells. At a
it chooses it must first irreversibly become a limited stem cell and is certain stage the embryo will undergo a change in which three
forever destined to travel that road. One of the characteristics of stem fundamental tissues are formed. These tissues are known as ectoderm,
cells is that the original stem cell stays the same after the first division endoderm and mesoderm. It is by selective and specific differentiation
on the pathway to differentiate, while the daughter cell will lose this that these three tissues will form all the organs and tissues of the body.
ability and continue to progress to an end cell, that is, a fully The ectoderm, for example, will form the hair, the skin, the teeth and
differential adult cell.the nervous system, including the brain.
These early embryonic stem cells are called totipotential cells, that is, Let us follow one of these cells as it selects a career pathway and goes
they can become any type of cell, but after they change into through the various stages. For example, an ectodermal stem cell
mesoderm, ectoderm or endoderm they are called pluripotential cells decides that he wants to be a skin cell. First, he will divide into two
since they have partially differentiated. Certain adult cells, known as
The SCIENCE behind the use of PLANT STEM CELLSIN COSMETIC FORMULATIONSBy Michael Pugliese
APJ 71
somatic cells, retain the ability to be altered and
reprogrammed to become stem cells. Scientists are
just beginning to work with these cells and they are
proving to be a source of possible use in medical
therapeutics. One application of stem cells is to
replace worn-out, damaged or non-viable body cells.
So what does stem cell mean for the aesthetician
faced with a plethora of new products claiming to
improve the skin? How to differentiate between the
hype and what can really help? Begin by
understanding that the focus for topical use is far
away from the media controversy over using human
stem cells to treat debilitating degenerative disease.
That is not our expertise, nor is it our fight. The
emerging cosmetic use focuses on plant stem cells.
So let us explore the differences between these
sources.
Plant stem cells are unlike many adult animal stem
cells in that they are totipotent, meaning they can give
rise to any plant tissue. They are also plentiful,
located in apical meristems of roots and shoots (buds
for example). In further contrast to animal cells, any
somatic plant cell can revert from its differentiated
state to become a totipotent stem cell. Thus, in order
to harvest stem cells, companies that produce stem
cells will often wound a plant so that some of its cells
around the wound will revert to stem cells. Once
harvested, plant stem cell tissue is grown in culture to
produce large quantities for industrial demand, a
process, which proves to be both a renewable and
eco-friendly resource.
To prepare stem cell cultures for use in a product, the
cultures are either dried down to a powder or
extracted. In either case, the live stem cell itself is
destroyed. When cultures are dried to a powder, stem
cells break apart in the process. Instead of drying,
stem cells may also be extracted for their important
components (much like making a juice or pressing
olives for their oil), and in this case extracts are also
usually dried a little and then resuspended in solvents
such as glycerin. Any claim or implication that a
product contains live stem cells is utterly false.
Perhaps as protection during or as a result of their
rapid division, stem cells are rich in potent
antioxidants, providing great advantages to human
skin. Each species of stem cell will also produce its
own special profile of secondary metabolites,
meaning molecules that are not needed for the cell's
growth and reproduction. Secondary metabolites
often coevolved with a plant's environment to deter
predators or attract other organisms for mutual
benefit. Regardless, it is the secondary metabolites
that are often of benefit to human skin, activating
protective pathways in human cells or stimulating
growth and division.
Grape stem cells provide an excellent example of
these actions; they produce a profile of metabolites
that are photo-protective for the human skin and
PLANT STEM CELLS AND THEIR
FUNCTION
PLANT STEM CELLS USED IN
COSMETIC FORMULATIONS
Grape Stem Cell Extract (PhytoCell
Tech Solar Vitis) – Protects against
oxidative and UV damage, shown to
delay cell senescence.
Edelweiss Stem Cell Extract ( L e o n t o p o d i u m A l p i n u m ) –
Preparation of Leontopodium
Alpinum meristem culture that
provides antioxidant activity, anti-
hyaluronidasic activity, and anti-
collagensaic activity. Thus it is shown
to reduce wrinkle depth by 15%
around the eye after only 20 days of
treatment.
Apple Stem Cell Extract (Malus
Domestica) – Liposomal preparation
from stem cells of a rare Swiss apple
known for its longevity. Increases
vitality, delays senescence and
combats chronological ageing in skin
cell. The extract has been shown to
help skin stem cells maintain their
characteristics and their capacity to
build new tissues. It also has been
shown to delay ageing and have an
anti-wrinkle effect.
L i l a c S t e m C e l l E x t r a c t
(Malodextrin and Syringa Vulgaris) – Rich in verbascoside with strong anti-
i n f l a m m a t o r y a c t i v i t y a n d
effectiveness against p. Acnes.
Gardenia stem cell extract
(Gardenia Jasminoides) – Rich in
moisturising phytosterols and
po lysacchar ides , a long wi th
antioxidative phenlypropanoids (e.g.
feruloyl-6-glucoside), protects the
skin's extra-cellular matrix from
degradation by MMPs and stimulates
collagen production.
Marrubium Stem Cell Extract (Marrubium vulgaremeristem) – Rich
i n p h e n y l p r o p a n o i d s ( i . e .
forsythoside B and verbacoside)
which are defensive molecules that
protect the skin against oxidants and
activate the skin's self-defence
systems.
Gardenia stem cells produce effective antioxidants, including
feruloyl-6-glucoside. Finally, Centella asiatica extracts contain
caffeoylquinic acid derivatives and other metabolites that provide
firming and restructuring actions as well as antioxidant activity.
To decide on the right stem cell for a product, the formulator should do
their own research into each stem cell's secondary metabolite profiles
and choose the best for the intended effect. Stem cells can be
incorporated into serums, creams or lotions and are best added at cold
stages to ensure the stability of all secondary metabolites.
As with any exciting new ingredient category, myth and
misinformation from marketers surrounds the use of stem cells in skin
care. The goal of this profession is to utilise scientific validity in the
selection and use of stem cells in functional, elegant skincare
formulation, and to educate clients with realistic expectations in using
stem cell-containing products.
delay cellular senescence. Many secondary metabolites also act as
anti-fungal or anti-bacterial compounds that provide further
protection for the skin. For example, lilac and Marrubium vulgare
contain verbascoside, a compound known for its antimicrobial
activity and anti-inflammatory activity.
The most well-known stem cells are currently derived from the Swiss
apple and the Edelweiss flower, with information readily available.
Some of the lesser-known stem cells with interesting secondary
metabolite profiles are derived from Marrubium vulgare, gardenia For more information and to access
and Centella asiatica. For example, Marrubium vulgare is not only Circadia by Dr Pugliese Skincare in Australia rich in antioxidants and verbascoside, it also contains Forsythoside B,
which among its other metabolites, activates protective and phone 1800 247 223 detoxification processes in human cells, thus preparing the skin for or Email [email protected] attacks from environmental aggressors.
Michael Q. Pugliese, BS, L.E. became the third-generation CEO of Circadia by Dr.
Pugliese, Inc. in 2006. Under Michael's leadership, the Circadia brand has grown
to achieve international recognition and distribution. He is a licensed
aesthetician, a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, and regularly
attends their education events to stay on the cutting edge of new product
development. Michael's compelling original lectures honor the tenets of modern
skin science discovered by his grandfather, and add today's application of that
information in an ever-changing business and scientific environment.
Benefits:Combats ageing in the skin
Strengthens the skin, improves firmness and elasticity
Rich in antioxidants
MeriStem SerumThe new-generation anti-ageing serum with plant stem cells enhanced with the latest peptides for firmer, younger-looking skin
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS Apple (Malus Domestica) stem cell extract:
Distinctive Phytostem Edelweissstem cell extract (Leontopodium alpinum
meristem cell culture extract):
Aloe Vera Gel-Eco (Aloe barbadensis) extract:
Cyclopeptide-5:
For more information and to access Circadia by Dr Pugliese Skincare in
Australia Phone 1800 247 223 or Email [email protected]
Liposomal preparation from stem cells of a rare
Swiss apple known for its longevity. Increases vitality, delayssenescence, and combats
chronological ageing in skin cell. The extract has been shown to help skin stem cells maintain their
characteristics and their capacity to build new tissues. It also has been shown to delay ageing and
have an anti-wrinkle effect.
Preparation of Leontopodium Alpinum meristem culture that
provides antioxidant activity, anti-hyaluronidasic and andanti-collagensaic activity. Is shown to
reduce wrinkle depth by 15% around the eye after only 20 days of treatment.
Rich in mucilaginous
polysaccharidesincluding acemannin(one of the active metabolites of Aloe); wound healing,
stimulates fibroblast growth, angiogenesis, and re-epithelialistion, reduces inflammation and
increases collagen synthesis.
A novel cyclopeptide binds integrins and increases signaling for extracellular
matrix production and crosstalk between skin cells. This results in increased tensil and compressive
strength, elasticity, and firmness to the skin. Wrinkles are reduced and the skin is smoothed.
APJ 72
Until recently the recovery potential of skin was determined by DNA and lifestyle. It was only during studies in the field of quantum phys-ics and in particular the influence of Static Magnetic Fields (SMF) on behaviour patterns in lipid bilayers that recently altered our view of skin. We now know that a Static Magnetic Field affects cell size, shape, orientation and membrane surface structure. Evidence supports that the physical manifestations of changes in blood perfusion, skin fibro-blasts, cell morphology and lipid rearrangement are interfaced with energy systems related to static magnetic fields. A view of skin within an SMF reveals a molecular world of energetic relationships, centrally connected and constantly signaling via somatosensory nerves. Understanding its biochemistry, microstructure and content, brings the realisation that its appearance is being controlled from within.
It is important to note from the outset that a SMF can extend to a depth of 6-20mm below the surface of the skin depending on strength and location of the fields. Also, the lipid bilayer which is known to be selectively permeable, is instantly responsive to a SMF. It is here that magnetic influence has its greatest effect, increasing hydration and blood flow and altering tissue permeability to strengthen the keratino-cyte cytoskeleton. Gauss (strength) and polarity of micro-magnets when used specifically, provide stimuli to the skin to provoke pathways and mediators to initiate adaptive or homeostatic responses leading to recovery from ageing influences such as toxic skin factors and the breakdown of healthy skin flora. Increased permeation of both hydro-philic and lipophilic substances triggers increased amino acid, enzyme and neuropeptide activity. This is seen within 15 to 20 minutes of application of a gauss specific SMF, as skin firms to touch and gains “bounce”.
Skin ageing is multi-factorial as skin loses elasticity with diminished epidermal hydration and slower turnover of cells and tissues. Fat cells in the subcutis slow down their metabolic activity leading to a loss of fatty tissue. Nutrient supply decreases while TCF proteins and natu-ral moisturising factor (NMF) in the Stratum Corneum are diminished. The process of epidermal renewal is ensured by antigen p63 and CD29 (integrin ß-1B), expressed in epidermal stem cells in the basal layer. These proliferative progenitor cells have the capacity for self-renewal and for generating the differentiated cells that create the stratified epithelium of terminally differentiating cells. A Static Magnetic Field which has the potential to extend to great depths offers a unique op-portunity for recovery and a lifetime of age control.
Recovery Potential of Skin
“The physical manifestations of changes in skin fibroblasts, blood profusion, cell morphology and lipid rearrangement, are interfaced with energy systems related to Static Magnetic Fields” -Kathy Pedersen, developer and trainer -Qi beauty Internaitonal
Tissue activity before SMF Tissue activity after SMF
Training Enquiries: 1300658804 [email protected] www.qibeauty.com.au
Tissue activity before SMF Tissue activity after SMF
As we age cellular activity diminishes and the nutrient support enjoyed by younger skin becomes compromised. Qi Beauty Practitioners are trained to personalise a treat-ment and construct a SMF ma-trix to change the landscape of the skin and stimulate volume and tone where needed. Train-ing in this modality as a Certi-fied Qi Beauty Practitioner will ensure you can deliver these unique anti-ageing benefits to your clients. Contact Qi Beauty International for further details [email protected]
advancedconference
APJ 74
of Skin Cancers. How to do a simple flap repair in the surgery.The Australasian College of Aesthetic Medicine (ACAM) and the
Australasian Society of Cosmetic Medicine (ASCM) are once again Dr Keng-Ee Thai (Dermatologist, Sydney) What are the best
options for treating non-melanoma skin cancer and solar proud to support the
keratoses?, being held in Sydney from 16 7
November 2013.
For a full program and more information on LCMC 2013, please visit:
www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2013.This important conference targets cosmetic physicians, cosmetic and
plastic surgeons, dermatologists as well as nurses and other aesthetic
The recent Inter-Jurisdictional Cosmetic Surgery Working Group practitioners from across Australia and the region.
emphasised the need to ensure that medical practitioners undertaking
cosmetic, medical and surgical procedures are part of a program of
peer review and ongoing education. To this end The conference program features new treatments and procedures,
including regenerative use of stem cells, non-surgical facelift,
liposculpture techniques and more familiar treatments such as anti-The conference will also feature an extensive industry exhibition with
wrinkle injections and dermal fillers. New areas of anti-ageing the latest equipment and products on display and for trial.
medicine will be introduced and the latest advances in non-surgical
and surgical management of skin cancer.Paramedical Workshop – IPL & Laser Treatment Techniques
Running concurrently with the conference is a course for nurses and ACAM President Dr Jass Narulla said; “New regenerative techniques
paramedical staff including aesthetic therapists on IPL (Intense such as stem-cell therapies and less-invasive procedures provides
Pulsed Light) and Laser Treatment Techniques. Anyone greater treatment choice with excellent results and minimum
considering pursuing a future in IPL or Laser applications will intervention. This conference is an ideal opportunity to learn from
understand the significance of education in relation to the practice and leading practitioners in the field of cosmetic medicine, surgery and
understanding of physiological interactions of these technologies. anti-aging medicine”.
Never before has it been so apparent that education in this area
provides quality outcomes, not only for the operator, but also for the
employer. This two-day course delivered by GrayClay Medical
Aesthetics Education is a solid entry point for any practitioner wanting
to commence in the industry with sound knowledge and Dr Michael Rich (Dermatologist, Melbourne) Advances in understanding in a number of treatment areas, including vascular, Liposculture Techniquepigmentation, rejuvenation, acne and hair removal.
Dr Robin Willcourt (expert in Anti-ageing Medicine, Melbourne)
Effective Anti-ageing treatment and ExerciseIn some Australian States this course is required as part of obtaining a
Dr Ralph Bright (Cosmetic Physician, Sydney) Stem Cells in laser Use Licence. In non-regulated States it is still strongly
Cosmetic Medicinerecommended as a way of understanding laser and IPL technology and
Dr Ehsan Jadoon (Cosmetic Physician, Sydney) Non-Surgical for guidelines on necessary standard operating procedures. Some
Facial Threadliftinsurance companies insist all staff using a laser or IPL show proof of
Dr Damien Foong (Skin Cancer, Brisbane) Surgical Management such Laser Safety certification before they will insure the clinic/salon.
th9 National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine
Conference (LCMC 2013)
CONFERENCE PROGRAMLCMC 2013 is
accredited with the RACGP QI and CPD program.
TOPICS AND KEYNOTE SPEAKERS AT LCMC 2013
INCLUDE:
– 1
th9 National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine ConferenceAdvances in surgical and non-surgical techniques for the cosmetic physicianSofitel Wentworth Hotel, Sydney | 16 - 17 November 2013
Additionally, the view of a number of experts in this profession is that
regulation and qualifications in relation to IPL and laser use will only
increase as the industry continues to review use requirements.
The opportunity to undertake the Australasian Academy of Cosmetic
Dermal Science IPL and Laser Safety Officer's course over two days
at the 9th National Laser and Cosmetic Medicine Conference in
Sydney Australia is one not to be missed. It will provide an
exceptional platform for anyone to commence the first step in
acquiring formal training in light-based therapies. The opportunity to
complete and achieve this qualification by undertaking the formal
assessments online only adds to the incredible value of attending the
conference and assisting you to secure your future in IPL and laser
practice.
Also available is a 3-day pre-conference
, being held from 13-15 November 2013 at
Rydges Hotel, North Sydney. This is an intensive theoretical and
practical workshop aimed at medical practitioners new to the field of
cosmetic medicine. The program covers chemical peels, Botulinum
Toxin, dermal fillers, lasers and sclerotherapy. The registration cost
includes attendance to LCMC 2013.
PRE-CONFERENCE WORKSHOP – INTRODUCTION TO
COSMETIC MEDICINEIntroduction to Cosmetic
Medicine Workshop
For further information on LCMC 2013 please contact
DC Conferences, the Conference Secretariat:
Phone: 02 9954 4400
Email: [email protected]
Web: www.dcconferences.com.au/lcmc2013Dr Jass Narulla National President of ASCM with Dr Doug Grose
salonprofile
APJ 76
improve their clinic results. At a recent training session it was brought Sue Carroll is an APAN member, the director and head para-medical
to our attention that results should be divided into 30/70. What we do aesthetician of Skin Inspiration Advanced Skin and Laser Clinic
in the salon or clinic should deliver 30% of the results, while what the situated in Mona Vale – a suburb of the Northern Beaches of Sydney.
client does should contribute 70% of the results. I use the analogy of a Sue has over 30 years experience, having qualified as a beauty
personal trainer – you pay them for their expertise and knowledge. therapist with ITEC, and as a para-medical aesthetician in the US,
They determine your needs and put together a program to help while constantly updating her skills and knowledge on an ongoing
strengthen and tone your body. You may see them for one hour a basis. This commitment has given her the reputation as a leader in her
week, but unless you follow their recommendations for the rest of the field and her bookings valid this. While other salons are struggling
week you can't expect to sustain the results, let alone experience Sue is constantly booked out never short of a new client seeking her
continued improvement. As therapists we take so much on board and services.
feel responsible to transform our clients' skin, while they expect us to
do all the work, but it doesn't work that way. Sustained and significant Behind every success story there is some nuggets of wisdom. We trust
skin improvement is as a result of a collaborative partnership between that as Sue shares her experiences with us this will assist others to pick
your client and you. You are there to guide them to do their part, while us, some great tips and benefit from her knowledge.
you do yours. We are expected to do more than just pampering and
relaxation consumers now look to us for noticeable and substantial
skin improvement and more serious results. This approach has
enabled me to achieve the results my clients are looking for, while
sustaining client loyalty as they see me not only as a therapist, but also
as a coach who is also interesting in keeping them accountable and
committed to their contribution to the process of not just improving The truth is that consumer spending has definitely decreased their skin, but also supporting their wellbeing.over recent years, meanwhile clients are still constantly seeking high
level results. To solve this dilemma we have restructured our
treatments so that they are shorter, intensive, yet more affordable for
the average client. The aim has been to continue to meet client
expectation and offer them great value, but still fit our services within
their budgetary restraints, while still maintaining our profitability.
Getting this right has been a challenge but we have managed to At this state 43% of my clients utilise both my services as well as achieve it. We have done this by combining technologies to deliver
fast, efficient treatments that are more hi-tech than hi-touch. cosmetic and integrative medicine – this is almost half of my clients
that are happy to be guided through the services of my complete Another strategy that has made a huge difference not only to results, network. For over 30 years I have been able to build a high calibre but also to client loyalty, has been to train our clients to commit to the professional network of like-minded experts that includes nurses, recommended homecare and lifestyle that will support and continue to doctors, plastic surgeons and regenerative medical practitioners. We
APJ Q1: Sue, what important changes have you
implemented in your practice during the past 2-3 years
as a result of consumer demand and how has this
worked out for you?
Sue:
APJ Q2: How have you been able to successfully
integrate cosmetic medicine with your services and what
percentage of your clients are looking to access both
services?
Sue:
SKIN INSPIRATION A successful fusion of
Aesthetics and Cosmetic Medicine
SKIN INSPIRATION A successful fusion of
Aesthetics and Cosmetic Medicine
APJ 77
have built a great professional relationship and we achieve this
through regular meetings where we exchange information and My goal is to incorporate strategies where I can continue to identify ways that we can better understand what each one can offer
educate my clients on the benefit of the integrative approach and the our client/patient so that we can achieve the best possible results. I
value of working with me collaboratively to achieve better outcomes. often invite my doctor or plastic surgeon to experience my treatments
For example, if there are digestive or hormonal issues that have not so that they can understand what I can achieve with the skin, which is
been correctly addressed and dealt with, this will disadvantage our primarily improving colour, texture and tone, while their focus is on
treatment results. It is best to get health issues corrected first then we structural issues and volume. On the other hand I request that they
can proceed to achieve results that the body can better support. I use include me in any training they deliver and allow me to experience
the analogy that if you have been kicked down, why would I kick you what they do so that I can gain a better understanding of their expertise
further in order to improve your skin?and how our services can best dovetail effectively for a better
client/patient outcome.I know with my own skin I could not achieve the results I wanted until
the internal issues were corrected through a qualified healthcare
professional. The integrative approach holds one of the main keys to
quality treatment outcomes as well as sustaining good results.
The best way to grow your network is to start by growing your
knowledge. Attend conferences, read journals, study techniques, do
your own research and gain understanding of what you wish to I am a perpetual lifelong learner. I constantly read, do my own introduce to your clients. Don't just jump on the bandwagon without research, attend conferences and network with like-minded fully understanding what you will be introducing to your clients. For professionals that can enhance my knowledge and understanding on example study what injectibles can offer your client so that you can changes and advances in our profession, as well as how to best bring guide them with your understanding and knowledge of the various them all together. procedures. Then select a practitioner that has the right aesthetic
approach. Appearance enhancement has now come into its own. It is
more subtle, more discreet and more natural. The new approach has
become more specialised and is based on the concept that “more is
less”. It's not about getting the 38 DDD size bust or the
overvolumised lips that scream “I've been enhanced” from a distance, As an organisation APAN advocates the integrative approach of it's about allowing the individual to still look themselves only fresher health, aesthetics and cosmetic medicine. It brings all these and more youthful. It's important that you educate your clients on disciplines together and delivers information to us through APJ what to look for as an end result even if you are not doing this Journal, conference programs and it is this professional approach procedure. that the organisation advocates and stands for. It is this kindred spirit
that resonates with me and this works for me. Having a professional I recently wrote an article for a magazine where I warned against body such as APAN for guidance and inspiration is invaluable.morphing into something you don't recognise anymore, and the
response from the public was amazing.
Ongoing education and growing your
understanding on what else you wish to
integrate into your salon or clinic is the key
to gaining confidence with medical
professionals as well as with consumers. I
attend numerous conferences and also do
training in other countries, and I have to say
that Australia is not behind the rest of the
world, in fact in some areas we are even
ahead of other countries.
I also have to say that I consider the APJ
Journal as a world-leading publication in
how it comprehensively presents the latest
scientific approaches to integrative internal
health and their relevance to achieving
optimal results with external techniques
and technologies. I believe that this
combined scientific approach with new
developments in technologies will define
aesthetics in future years and raise it to a
new level of recognition.
will impact your business?
Sue:
APJ Q3: What advice would you give someone who
wishes to extend their services to include cosmetic and
regenerative medicine? How should they go about it?APJ Q5: How do you stay up-to-date with your Sue: education?
Sue:
APJ Q6: How has the information you gain from APAN
help you gain greater clarity and shaped your direction
in your practice?
Sue:
APJ Q4: What are your goals for
the next 12 months and how do you
view the future in terms of how it
,
,
the
and
Skin Inspiration, 2/20 Bungan St, Mona Vale, NSW 2103
Phone:(02) 9979 8832
salonbusiness
APJ 78
APJ only be described as a challenging economy. So let's examine who is In the Winter issue I wrote an article relating to buying an existing
and who is not the ideal start-up business operator. salon, spa or clinic business. However, some who wish to go into
business don't necessarily want to
purchase an existing business,
instead they prefer to start a business
from scratch. This article looks at
who is the ideal person for a start-up
business and the potential traps or
pitfalls to avoid.
I guess the most important question
to consider is why would you want
to start a business rather than buying
an existing one? As discussed in my
previous article, an existing
business with good ongoing profit
potential and operating with high
performance systems is ideal as it is
the safer route to take. However,
even if you buy an existing business
with all systems in place it will still
take you time to learn how to
operate it and keep profits
constantly flowing. On the other
hand, if you are looking at investing
in a start-up business the question
you need to ask yourself is, are you a
person with a good chance of
succeeding, especially in what can
How to navigate through the Traps and Pitfalls of the Start-up Business
By Caroline Nelson
APJ 79
SUTABILITY CONSIDERATIONS
ATTRIBUTES FOR SUCCESS
These are:
Caroline Nelson is a beauty industry expert with over 40 years’
experience who specialises in beauty coaching for salons and
spas. Visit www.SalonSpaBusiness.com to see her full selection
of beauty industry business tools and upcoming Beauty
Development Seminars.
'drive' the performance of the business. Therefore having sufficient
funds for both launch and ongoing marketing is essential. The ideal person would be someone who has both business experience
as well as the appropriate qualifications for this profession with a Another key section is the financials to include an analysis of cash certain level of experience. They would be someone with sufficient flow and also include a cash forecast month-by-month for the first 12 funds behind them to not only set the business up in a good location months and then quarterly from there on. It would provide financial with sufficient equipment stock, and fit-out, but also to have funds for projections of capital expenditure, operating costs, cash flow, balance marketing their new venture. They also need to fully understand and sheet and expected profits and/or losses. Good financial planning is realise that it may be 12 months or more before they are showing a the 'blueprint' or road map of how to achieve financial goals, while profit. taking into account and consideration the business’s assets, liabilities
and credit standing. It will enable the business owner to be in control However, what we more often see is someone who can't afford to buy of their finances and to make wise decisions. an existing profitable business, in fact has insufficient funds to open in
a good location and does not have the funds to appropriately equip, While some new start-ups will decide to work on their own during the stock, advertise or market the new venture. But still they go ahead in early stages, if employing staff is a possibility either now or in the the mistaken belief they will start making a profit immediately and future, then developing effective people management skills will be then will have the money to start marketing the business. This is critical. To succeed in this they will need employees who not only putting the cart before the horse. have the required qualifications and skills, but who believe in the
vision of the business and where the business aims to go.
But let's say you do have sufficient funds to start your own business As the leader the business owner must have the strength of character to
along with additional funds to keep it going during the initial start-up set organisational direction and inspire employee loyalty,
phase. What else is an absolute necessity to give both you and the commitment and involvement.
business every chance of succeeding?
There is always risk to starting any business, but every effort should be You will need the exact same four traits we discussed in my previous
used to minimise these as much as possible. So apart from planning issue when I discussed purchasing an existing business. and choosing a good location to establish the business, you will need
Goal-Oriented to also make sure competition is minimal to ensure that the enterprise Passionate can be set on a strong path for growth.Adaptable, self-reliant and resilient
Driven Negotiating a fair and reasonable rental, with good lease conditions
and options, is also important. Another critical consideration is In addition, the self-starter needs boundless confidence and be selecting the right skincare and make-up ranges for the demographics disciplined in keeping focused on making the business work that provide not only high-level results, but high mark-ups and regardless of obstacles or challenges they may come up against. company support. Having not bought an existing business they will have to create all
their own systems as they do not have an operational blueprint for the I would also suggest that a start-up should not over-capitalise with too day-to-day running of the business. They need to keep an open mind to much equipment in the first 12 months until the business is well any or all opportunities that may come their way. The self-starter will established. Remember, the more equipment you have the more also need to have business management knowledge or be prepared to training will be needed, and in some circumstances this can put too seek the support and advice from someone who does possess the much pressure on both new employees and the owner. And never necessary skills. compromise the marketing budget by spending too excessively on an
overly lavish décor. Another necessity is a well-written business plan. Now while all
business owners need one it is particularly important for the start-up, In the initial stages some things will be a bit of a trial and error, this is and will help guide the business on an effective path towards reaching to be expected. That having been said, try to minimise mistakes and short, medium and long-term goals. The business plan is a wastage. And remember, if you give yourself and/or employees a clear navigational tool to guide the business owner's focus, to prepare for roadmap including priorities then there will be a higher chance of expanding the business, or to help implement new directions, success.
© Copyright Caroline Nelson 2013technologies or products. The plan must be flexible and be able to
adapt to shifting or changing circumstances.
A business plan is very important for a start-up because it requires the
new business owner to gather information on the treatments, products,
market and economic climate. The information is then analysed on
how it will affect or impact on the feasibility and success of the
business. This will allow the right operational systems to be developed
that will ensure their business fits the way they intend to provide
services and products to customers.
The vital part of the business plan covers marketing and promotions,
selling strategies, pricing and linking this to the results or goals of the
business plan. Developing the brand awareness of the business will
entail a high level of marketing in the launching stage of the business
to attract customers. Ongoing marketing and effective promotions
will continue to attract as well as retain customers and will ultimately
keyingredient
APJ 80
There is a great deal of research on the role of vitamin D as the
master nutrient and its amazing role in health and specifically, in
supporting the immune system both for the skin and body. At a
recent Research Symposium conducted by the highly respected ®nutritional company BioCeuticals with the theme Research,
Innovation, Reality held in Sydney, several world-renowned
scientists shared vital research findings, addressing how these
findings can contribute to transforming lives and optimising
health to Australians. Among the speakers was Professor
Michael F. Holick, who is renowned as a world leader in Vitamin D
for human nutrition. We are delighted that he accepted an
interview with us to discuss the latest scientific findings with
regards to vitamin D and how it can impact health and longevity.
APJ Q3: There is conflicting schools of thought about APJ Q1: Professor Holick, can you give us a brief
daily recommended doses. Being that Vitamin D is a fat- overview of the role of Vitamin D in heath and any new
soluble vitamin with some saying that 1000 IU is research findings?
sufficient, while others advocate that we need 8000 IU, Professor Holick
what are your thoughts? Also, should women take a
different dose to men?
Professor Holick:
APJ Q2: Can you tell us why you believe a high
percentage of Australian are Vitamin D deficient when we
have so much sun? What contributes to this deficiency?
Professor Holick:
:
exposure. A sunscreen within SPF of 30 reduces the ability to
produce vitamin D in the skin by as much as 95%. Other causes
include increased pigmentation, malabsorption syndromes and
using medications like glucocorticoids, anti-seizure
medications and AIDS medications can increase the
destruction of vitamin D, requiring more to satisfy the body’s
requirements.
The recent release of an app dminder.info provides iPhone
users with the ability to determine when and how much vitamin
D is produced in the skin during sun exposure, and also alerts
them when they have been exposed to too much sunlight that
could damage skin.
There continues to be new revelations
about the benefits of vitamin D. Of note is our recent
observation that vitamin D supplementation has a direct effect We conducted a study demonstrating that on the immune system regulating 291 genes that control more
healthy adults receiving 1000 IUs of vitamin D daily during the than 80 metabolic processes, including immune function, DNA winter will not raise blood levels of 25-hydroxyvitamin D into repair, response to oxidative stress just to name a few. Our a healthy range, which is a 25-hydroxyvitamin D >75 nmol/l. I PLOS1 publication can be found on my website, personally take 3000 IUs of vitamin D daily throughout the DrHolick.com.year and I do the same for all my patients. My blood level of 25-
hydroxyvitamin D is 125 nmol/l. I don't believe 8000 IUs of
vitamin D daily is required unless the patient is obese, in which
case they often need 2-3 times more vitamin D to satisfy their
requirements. The major cause of vitamin D deficiency is
the lack of appreciation that there are very few dietary sources Men and women should take the same amount of vitamin D. I of vitamin D, including ultraviolet light exposed mushrooms recommend for all children 1000 IUs of vitamin D daily and for and oily fish. The major source of vitamin D is from sun adults 2000-3000 IUs daily.
NEW FINDINGS ON VITAMIN D and its role in Health and ImmunityAn interview with PROFESSOR MICHAEL HOLICK
APJ 81
APJ Q4: What bloodtest levels would indicate that one
was deficient and what readings would indicate that one
was deficient?
Professor Holick:
APJ Q5: In terms of immunity support how does Vitamin
D defend the body against cancer and does that also
include skin cancer?
Professor Holick:ABOUT BIOCEUTICALS
APJ Q6: How does Vitamin D work in the cells of the
body and should we be taking Vitamin D indefinitely. Is
there any concern for overdosing and toxicity?
Professor Holick:
For more information go to www.bioceuticals.com.au
APJ Q7: Can adequate Vitamin D levels be gained
from the diet and what foods should we eat for
that?
Professor Holick:
APJ Q8: When supplementing with Vitamin D,
which is the best source, and are tablet form,
capsules or liquid best in terms of bioavailability?
Professor Holick:
ABOUT PROFESSOR MICHAEL F. HOLICK, PHD,
MD
Bone Health Care Clinic and the Director of the
Vitamin D, Skin and Bone Research
Laboratory at Boston University Medical
Center. Prof. Holick has made numerous
contributions to the field of the biochemistry, The only blood test that determines the physiology, metabolism, and photobiology of person's vitamin D status is 25-hydroxyvitamin D. I vitamin D for human nutrition. He has recommend a minimum level of 75 nmol/l and a preferred established global recommendations advising range is 100-150 nmol/l. Vitamin D deficiency is defined as a sunlight exposure as an integral source of blood level of 25-hydroxyvitamin D <50 nmol/l and vitamin D vitamin D. He has also helped increase
insufficiency as 51-74 nmol/l.awareness in the paediatric and medical
communities regarding the vitamin D
deficiency pandemic, and its role causing not only metabolic bone
disease, and osteoporosis in adults, but increasing risk of children and
adults developing a range of conditions.
Vitamin D improves the immune system
and stimulates not only macrophages, but also activates T. and The Symposium was hosted by BioCeuticals - Australia's leading
B. lymphocytes, which can help in immune surveillance for provider of practitioner-only nutritional and therapeutic supplements. reducing cancer risk. BioCeuticals is at the forefront of evidence-based Integrative
Medicine, being a proud sponsor of 16 key clinical trials in primary
healthcare facilities. BioCeuticals is committed to helping educate
healthcare professionals on research and its practical application for
better outcomes for their patients.
Essentially every cell in the body has a Renowned for manufacturing and delivering premium quality
integrative medicines to healthcare practitioners, BioCeuticals aims vitamin D receptor, therefore everyone should be increasing to consistently raise the standards of natural-based therapies.their vitamin D intake from diet and supplements along with
getting some sensible sun exposure. Vitamin D toxicity is an
extremely rare condition caused by intentional or inadvertent
overdosing of vitamin D. An adult would need to take
tens of thousands of units of vitamin D daily for several
months. Vitamin D toxicity is associated with an
elevated serum calcium and can lead to soft-tissue
calcification.
It is next to impossible to obtain
enough vitamin D from the diet. The reason is that
throughout evolution humans have depended on the sun
for their vitamin D requirement and there was no need
for there to be dietary sources unless they lived in the far
northern and southern regions of the world, which is
why Eskimos used to eat polar-bear liver and seal
blubber that contains a high amount of vitamin D.
From my experience it does not
matter whether vitamin D is in a liquid, capsule or tablet
form, they all seem to be equally bioavailable if
formulated properly.
Professor of Medicine, Physiology and Biophysics; Director
of the General Clinical Research Unit; and Director of the
starperformer
Dr Horst Spiller pioneered topical
peptide technology back in 1973. This
innovation secured Spiller's position
as an international formulating icon,
inspiring and advancing the use of
peptide application in modern
cosmetic chemistry.
Such ingenuity continued in 2007
with launch of
. Containing a blend of double
peptide complex, HMC and protein
rich silk, the fusion of patented
t echno logy wi th b iomimet ic
replicates creates a synergistic
corrective solution.
is a lifting
and firming corrector designed to re-
contour and tone age aggressed eye
zones. Silk Eye Contour Cream re-
plumps and tightens the appearance of
fine and mimic lines, while reducing
dark circles and puffiness. A reviving
cream-gel, this active corrector is
amplified with biomimetic hyaluronic
acid and retinyl palmitate with barrier
function as well as fortifying squalene
and lecithin.
A peptide is a building block of a protein and consists of a combination The f inal patented
of amino acids. With 20 amino acids found in the human body, c o m p l e x i n t h i s
peptides and proteins are different combinations and sequences of innovative elixir is
these acids. A chain of amino acids over 50 is referred to as a protein
and a chain under 50 is a peptide. Silk is naturally rich in seresin and a synthetic fibroin proteins abundant in biomimetic serine and glycine amino complex designed to acids found naturally in NMF (Natural Moisture Factor) and collagen reduce blood f low for increased structure and form. t h r o u g h s u r f a c e
capillaries, reducing the Researched and developed by one of the world's largest appearance of dark pharmaceutical companies, was circles. A derivative of t h e f i r s t s y n t h e t i c a l l y c r e a t e d a m i n o a c i d c h a i n t h e f l a v o n o i d (glycine/glutamine/proline/arginine) that has been clinically proven hesperidin, this active to suppress excess interleukin production, reducing inflammation and complex in combination with double peptides forms a triple-action glycation. solution that actively targets lines, fatigue, darkness and puffiness.
Research as recent as early 2013 further indicated Matrixyl's ability to remains an unsurpassed innovator and assist in almost doubleing collagen production and enable improve forms a part of the award winning Silk range by Dr Spiller, which also skin elasticity. Puffiness and wrinkles cumulatively reduce with daily contains Silk Serum and Silk Complex.application.
based on an amino acid chain of valine and tryptophan Dr Spiller products can be purchased from designed to stimulate lymphatic drainage to reduce under-eye
OmniDerm 1300 301 007puffiness and to promote greater water-binding capabilities.
Hydration to the eye area increases reviving and refreshing the
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Silk Eye Contour
Cream
Silk Eye Contour Cream –
HOW DO THE PEPTIDES WORK?
Hesperidin Methyl
Chalcone –
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7 (Matrixyl)
Silk Eye Contour Cream –
Di-peptide 2 –
SILK EYE CONTOUR CREAMPatented Double Peptide Complex with HMC
Winning the fight against wrinkles
APJ 82
Biomimetic Skin Care
13-07-12_APJ_one page_outline.indd 1 12/07/13 3:04 PM
advancedtechnology
APJ 84
It has been over 20 years since microcurrent first made its entrance
into the Australian aesthetic industry, when it was considered as the Since the launch of microcurrent there are now numerous new ultimate non-surgical face-lifting treatment of choice. advances in their manufacture. Systems are smaller, with new
capabilities that offer fully integrated computerised treatment Since then new innovations have seen the launch of numerous devices programs that utilise sequencing technology. These are now able to with light-based technologies such as various lasers and IPL being the facilitate maximum lift and product penetration, giving more current favourite. While these devices offer great results in collagen significant long-lasting results in comparison to their predecessors.stimulation and skin rejuvenation, research is now suggesting that
photo-induced, heat-based trauma to stimulate collagen density if
used extensively does compromise certain cells in the body. The Originally developed in the U.S. in the late 1980s, microcurrent
question is are we going too far with just lasers and IPL as the only therapy was used to treat facial weakness in victims of Bell's Palsy and
mode of treatment modalities and should we be incorporating other strokes, muscular injuries (especially for athletes), and also used by
technologies that pose less or no risk to the skin as part of a mix of physiotherapists for pain relief (TENS machines).
technologies to achieve better treatment results?
Consisting of gentle waveforms that match the innate electrical One thing we do know is that every technology has its limits and
activity of the body, microcurrent technology works hand-in-hand therefore the skilful combination of various technologies often
with electrical activities i.e. GSR (skin), EEG (brain),EKG (heart) and delivers the most advantageous, long-lasting outcomes. However, the
EMG (muscles). It recognises the body as a self-healing organism key to determining the correct sequence and the best combinations has
and supports its many naturally occurring functions, achieving a great deal to do with understanding the physics that govern the
various results in many facets of youth, health and wellness.technology, and what the technology will deliver to the skin and
beyond.
Microcurrent uses a direct current that travels in a wave form. It has
very low amperage and generally the client feels next to nothing With such knowledge you can design unique treatment plans that
during a treatment. Microcurrent systems use a combination of combine lasers or IPL devices with LED, microcurrent,
different wave shapes, hertz and currents, which are simultaneously electroporation or even iontophoresis to deliver amazing skin
directed through single or dual-tipped probes into the muscle or skin improvement.
tissue.
For this reason we will be featuring in the next few issue of APJ a
series of articles that profile a variety of technologies with valuable
The human body is an electrical being and the health of it depends on information of their history, capabilities and new research findings.
the energy currents that run through the body. When the body suffers a
WHY MICROCURRENT?
WHAT IS MICROCURRENT AND HOW DOES IT WORK?
HEALING WITH MICROCURRENT
The Gentle Current and Its Ability To Achieve Skin Rejuvenation and Improved Facial Contour
The Gentle Current and Its Ability To Achieve Skin Rejuvenation and Improved Facial Contour
By Tina Viney
APJ 85
trauma (acne, cuts, sprains, etc) it encapsulates itself for
healing purposes (inflammation, swelling, spasm, etc.) During
a healing crisis such as those mentioned, normally free-flowing
currents will circumvent the area of trauma and travel around it.
This happens because electrical current always takes the path
of least resistance. As a result the flow of electricity in the
traumatised area is significantly reduced or possibly void. At
this point the body as a self-healing organism is not recovering
optimally.
Coupled with trauma and a healing crisis, the details of the
body's needs are now more severe. In order to return to a
homeostatic condition the body must regenerate and heal itself.
This process begins within the body at the cellular level. The
injured cells need increased oxygen, protein synthesis ion
exchange and adenosine triphosphate (ATP). The polarity of
the cells must be rebalanced, wastes and toxins must be
eliminated quickly and the absorption of nutrients is required to
restore homeostasis.
Microcurrent stimulates the production of ATP, which is stored Dr. Wing used this type of diagnostic feature along with lowering the cellular energy that allows a cell to function. This in turn triggers the voltage on his unit and current levels were adjusted to the micro-body's natural bio-chemical healing process, allowing intra-cellular amperage range. Then a wider range of very low frequencies was fluids to be restored, electrolyte levels to be replenished and the added. In 1975 Dr. Wing introduced what was known as the first absorption of nutrients. The stimulation of intra-cellular calcium comfortable US-made non-needle acupuncture (Surface Electrical further strengthens cellular balance and healing. Amino acid uptake is Acupuncture) instrument with diagnostics. Needles were replaced by increased as well as protein synthesis, which assists in tissue repair. pencil-looking items with brass tips and later converted to Q-Tip ends Blood circulation and lymphatic flow are increased. These vital to just touch the surface of the skin. He called this the Accu-O-Matic functions are increased fivefold with microcurrent technology to that stood for accurate and automatic. Dr. Wing’s instruments promote optimal healing and regeneration of cells and tissue.created quite a stir. Physicians flocked to learn about this method and
were so impressed with the results they were quick to incorporate
them in their practices.To fully appreciate microcurrent a little background history can be
useful, so here is a glimpse of how it all came about.Then in the USA in 1977 as a result of the Medical Device Act of May
28, 1976 the FDA (Food and Drug Administration) informed Dr. Wing
Thomas W. Wing, a fifth-generation Chinese doctor, is credited with he could not use ear point charts to treat because they were claiming to
introducing a microcurrent instrument in the late 1970s. According to cure conditions. In 1978 FDA agents visited again and said
Dr. Wing it all started when the doors opened to acupuncture after acupuncture had not been "proven safe and effective" in the
President Nixon's visit to China in 1972. Almost overnight thousands experimental use period of one year. However, the FDA told Dr. Wing
of doctors were interested in all forms of acupuncture. One of these he could reapply with his instrument under the 1976 Medical Device
methods was adding current to the acupuncture needles to create a and Cosmetology Act if he took the reading portion of the unit and
more potent application. This method was seldom comfortable now referred to it as an electrical acupuncture device.
because it induced intense stinging, so a few members of Dr.Wing’s
study group suggested they should find a better way to utilise This new model in 1980 became the My-O-Matic, which added a new
electrical acupuncture methods. wave form and was found beneficial in the treatments of muscles to
lengthen, shorten and strengthen. It was approved as a muscle Dr. Wing had a little background in electronics and felt competent to
stimulator. It also found new life in the cosmetology industry for facial take on the challenge. Diagnostics called galvanic skin differentials
toning and wrinkle reduction. By this time there were several other are accredited to Dr. Reinhold Voll, a West German physician. He
companies offering exact internal copies. For example: Accuscope/ introduced GSR (galvanic skin response) as a feature in his electro-
Myopluse, Alpha Stim and many others. All suffered from pressures acupuncture devices in 1958. Practioners believing in the Chinese
from the FDA for marketing issues. Many of these early companies system of 12 Meridians in the body believed that these differentials in
did not survive.readings related to energy imbalances.
Worldwide recognition began when athletes like Carl Lewis began Using an instrument by Dr. Voll became referred to as EAV (Electrical
using microcurrent, claiming it as the latest and greatest of physical Acupuncture by Voll). Dr. Voll also used the system of treating ear
therapy treatments. Many articles recognised the benefits of points used by ancient Egyptians and the Chinese, which related to
microcurrent and progressively the technology gained acceptance and specific parts in the body. New ear charts were developed by a French
popularity. Today it is a highly researched, modality particularly for phsycian, Dr. Paul Nogier, in 1951 along with experimentation with 4its healing properties. new frequencies for a form of electrical ear acupuncture called
Auriculotherapy. Dr. Nogier's ear charts reflect over 200 points, while
the Chinese ear charts use a simpler system of 130 points. The first Dr.
Voll EAV devices tried encompassing all possible points, which was For cosmetic purposes microcurrent is now used for its ability to approximately 850, thus the first diagnostic scales read from 0-1000. deliver the following benefits. These include: By the 70s most of these devices went to a simpler system by reducing
the scale from 0-100.
HISTORY OF THE MICROCURRENT INSTRUMENT
BENEFITS OF MICROCURRENT
1. Increases blood flow
As people age, the number and size of the capillaries supplying
oxygen and vital nutrients to the dermis decrease, causing the cells of This waveform, much like the sharp waveform, peaks almost the skin to gradually begin to diminish in size and function. By instantly, however, its peak is maintained for a much shorter time and stimulating blood flow the skin is re-energised. again decreases as instantly as it raised. This waveform is usually
used for product penetration, to increase blood circulation and to help
eliminate the toxins in the skin through lymphatic drainage.
Microcurrent stimulates and speeds up the rate at which the skin
produces its own connective tissue fibres, as well as collagen and
elastin, therefore increasing the supportive framework of the dermis. Hertz refers to the number of electrical impulses per second.
Understanding the frequency or hertz is the key to a successful non-
surgical facelift utilising microcurrent. The frequency is carried and It stimulates and speeds up the rate at which the body produces its controlled by the waveform to reach varied depths of penetration, and muscle protein, adenosine triphosphate synthesis, reducing the ageing the frequency will have a different effect on skin than muscle.effect on muscle tissue and muscle atrophy. As people progress in age
the skin starts to deteriorate due to a number of issues, including
gravity, genetics, poor skincare, sun exposure, poor nutrition and Refers to the flow of electrons along a conductor, in this case with stress. Additionally, the 30 facial muscles attached directly below the microcurrent that uses the probes to measure the amperage. skin's surface lose their elasticity, become weaker and over time begin Amperage is the number of electrons that pass a given point within to sag. This makes it more difficult for the muscles to support the skin one second. The longer you apply the current the further it will travel.covering them, and finally results in the appearance of wrinkles,
creases and folds. As we have already discussed, the high-end microcurrent equipment
usually offers fully computerised pre-programmed systems removing
these areas of doubt. If utilising a manual system it is imperative that Microcurrent re-sculpts and re-educates the muscle tissue by you have a full understanding of microcurrent, waveforms, frequency lengthening or shortening as necessary, utilising the Golgi Tendon and current, and that continued careful monitoring is maintained at all Organ Technique. Repeated expressions result in a strengthening and times.shortening of contractive muscles and a weakening and stretching of
the distended muscles, once again creating those ever-dreaded Many of us when thinking of non-surgical facelifts, conjure images of wrinkles and creases. electrodes or pads being placed on insertion and exertion points of the
face and neck muscles and the equipment being turned up to a point To assist you to further understand how microcurrent can achieve that it is 'bearable'. These systems are in effect classed as E.M.S. these benefits I will attempt to keep my information on a basic level (electro-muscle stimulation) machines. They use a higher level of and explain how this current penetrates deep into the skin and current (generally requiring a 240 volt supply) and the principal muscles, how long that penetration is maintained, and the effect it has technique that they work under is a strong current used to on the skin and muscles, which rely on three things – waveform, involuntarily force repeated muscular contraction and expansion. frequency/hertz and current (amperage). This leads to a shortening and thickening of the muscle tissue, which
gives a 'lifted' effect.
However, true microcurrent systems work on the Golgi Tendon Organ Electricity is like water – it travels in waves. The typical waveform Technique (which we touched on earlier when mentioning muscle re-used in microcurrent devices is called envelope waveform because it sculpting and re-educating). The Golgi Tendon Organ Technique re-has four distinguished sides and looks like and envelope. The educates the muscle by changing the brain’s perceived length of the waveforms vary in length of time that they allow the current to flow. muscle by either shortening or lengthening the muscle according to its Gentle has the longest duration that the current can flow and the pulse position. This technique is achieved by placing the probes (and waveform has the shortest duration of current flow. In general, therefore applying the current) to the nerve endings located at the microcurrent systems utilise four major waveforms:musclotendonous junction and either moving the probes away from
each other (lengthening the muscle) or bringing the probes towards With this waveform the current peaks slowly, is maintained at its peak
each other (shortening the muscle). This technique does not for a longer period of time than other waveforms, and slowly
therefore, create involuntarily force repeated muscular contraction decreases. This waveform is usually used to 're-sculpt' and 're-educate'
and expansion, and these treatments are comfortable without any pain.the deep muscle layer and generally works at a lower frequency.
To illustrate, let's say we are presented with a client that has lines in the
forehead and lower jowl sag. The lines in the forehead have appeared This waveform, as compared to the gentle waveform, rises to its peak because through continual facial expression the muscle has shortened. quicker, maintains its peak for a shorter duration of time and decreases Using the G.T.O. Technique we will lengthen this muscle, putting it quicker. This waveform is usually used to 're-sculpt' and 're-educate' back into its original position. The lower jowl sag has appeared due to the more superficial muscle layer, and works at a higher level of gravity and muscle atrophy. Using the G.T.O. Technique, we will current. shorten this muscle, thus creating a lifting effect.
This waveform peaks almost instantly, maintains its peak for the same
length of time as the mild waveform and decreases as instantly as it A significant reduction in fine lines and wrinkles
raised. This waveform is usually used to speed up the rate at which the A softening of the deeper lines
skin produces its own connective tissue, increases blood circulation A gentle firming of skin and muscle tissue
and helps eliminate the toxins in the skin through lymphatic drainage.
4. Pulse Waveform
2. Stimulates cellular activity
FREQUENCY/HERTZ
3. Stimulates ATP
CURRENT (AMPERAGE)
4. Re-educates muscles
WAVEFORM
1. Gentle Waveform
2. Mild Waveform
3. Sharp Waveform So, what are the results that can be expected from a microcurrent
treatment?
APJ 86
FREQUENCY OF TREATMENT
REFERENCES
RESEARCH FINDINGS
to include here, however, just a few papers I would like to name from A significant increase of oxygenated blood in the dermis, muscle recent studies on the benefits of microcurrent include research and skin tissuefindings on conditions such as in the healing of diabetes-related A significant increase in the production of collagen and elastin
1 2wounds , wound health after skin grafting and, transforming growth Increased skin smoothnessfactor-beta 1 secretion by human dermal fibroblasts and the U937 A significant increase in the skin’s hydration
3human monocytic cell line . However, the most prevalent studies are A gentle increase in muscle toneon muscular pain management. There is also a new interesting study
and treatment by Dr Edward Kondrot in the US who has developed a
novel treatment using a very low microcurrent frequency that assists It is important to understand that microcurrent gently works on the in improving eyesight in macular degeneration and other eye skin and muscles at a cellular level. In doing so it stimulates both disorders.blood and lymph that improve nutrients and oxygen to the skin, while
assisting to eliminate wastes. It also works on the nerves to assist with I am not aware of any substantial independent studies specifically for more efficient muscle contraction or expansion and tone. This is skin rejuvenation, however, the plethora of studies that support its achieved at a very slow and progressive rate similar to exercising– benefit for pain management and health improvement validate that it you will feel and see an immediate result from the first session or is a credible technology in offering numerous benefits to the human treatment, but more visible and long-lasting results will require a body – and in fact for effective pain management for animals. course of treatments. Meanwhile, for aesthetic purposes, there are thousands of successful
microcurrent practitioners who are achieving great results with Microcurrent is gentle, but when delivered incrementally at the specific techniques and the appropriate frequency of treatments appropriate proximity will deliver results. Treatment frequency delivered. You will also find interesting techniques shared on should commence as regular as 2-3 per week for the first four weeks YouTube for eye lifting, lips, neck and jaw and general facelifting. followed by one treatment per week until you reach the desired
outcome of lifting and toning. After that, one treatment every 4-6 As a technology microcurrent is experiencing a resurgence of interest. weeks will help in maintaining the results. To determine the best With new protocols and used in conjunction with other modalities, it is possible results, a full skin and facial analysis will need to be a valuable piece of equipment that offers credible results for facial conducted to establish the treatment objectives. toning and skin rejuvenation.
When combined with IPL and LED it is amazing what changes you
can achieve. The exact number of treatments required will depend
upon the muscle tone, skin type and condition and what other services 1. Use of wireless microcurrent stimulation for the treatment of diabetes-
are being conducted within the treatment package.related wounds: 2 case reports. Ramadhinara A, Poulas K.
2. Wound closure after split-thickness skin grafting is accelerated with the use Results will also depend on the client's commitment to the program,
of continuous direct anodal microcurrent applied to silver nylon wound maintaining a good skincare regime at home that you will prescribe, contact dressings. Huckfeldt R, Flick AB, Mikkelson D, Lowe C, Finley PJ.and the all-important factor of moderation in smoking, alcohol, sun 3. Electrical stimulation of transforming growth factor-beta 1 secretion by exposure, a healthy, well-balanced diet and adequate amounts of human dermal fibroblasts and the U937 human monocytic cell line. Todd I, sleep.Clothier RH, Huggins ML, Patel N, Searle KC, Jeyarajah S, Pradel L, Lacey
KL.
4.History of Microcurrent by Deborah Powell printed by permission.There are currently numerous research papers conducted that validate
the benefit of microcurrent for healing benefits – far too many for me
APJ 87
starperformers
Advance corrective procedures require a multi-disciplinary approach, not only to sustain change at a cellular level, but also to support continued
skin improvement for immediate and long-term results. As leaders in both clinical skincare and medical-grade equipment modalities
ClinicalPRO understands, the importance of cellular support to enhance corrective skin procedures delivered in a timely manner. Their leading
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ADVANCED SERUMS FOR A TARGETED CELLULAR APPROACH
Vitamin C Zesty Cellular
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ClinicalPRO Vitamin C Zesty
Cellular Repair Serum
This calming and repairing serum
contains a complex of hydrolysed
wheat and soy protein combined with
Tripeptide-1, which has proven UVB
protection of cells from photo-
damage, while selectively boosting
synthesis of Collagen 11 to help
reduce the appearance of ageing on the
skin.
is great for
reducing puffiness around the eyes,
improving the appearance of skin
structure, preventing free radical
damage, repairing and stabilising cell
membranes to help prevent future
damage. Other notable benefits
include plumping, hydrating and
extending longevity and healthy
appearance of the skin due to plant
stem cell extracts in the formula.
NEW De-Pigmentation
Creme
De-Pigmentation Crème,
ClinicalPRO has launched a new
pigmentation-fighting formulation,
using a
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Hinokitiol has been proven to inhibit
tyrosinase activity, a key enzyme in
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is the reduction of the transcription
factor that orchestrates melanin
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expression. This formulation is not
photo-sensitive, and the synergistic
action of its active ingredients
prevents and treats various types of
skin discolouration, working well on
melasma, solar lentigo and post-
inflammation hyper-pigmentation.
APJ 89
Vitamin A Advanced Repair Serum with Natural
Retinaldehyde
VITAMIN A
Advanced Repair Serum with
Natural Retinaldehyde
A new innovative non-irritating
topical treatment with amazing
benefits for a variety of skin
conditions has just been launched by
C l in i ca lPRO.
is a unique
fo rmula con ta in ing na tura l
Retinaldehyde, a stable form of
Retinoic Acid that produces
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of wrinkles and ageing skin, as well
as acne, rosacea, discolouration and
pigmentation. Its unique patented
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natural Cyclodextrin, resulting in a
product without topical irritation but
with enhanced benefits.
EGF-DNA Recovery
Concentrate & CrèmeEGF-DNA Recovery Concentrate
by ClinicalPRO
EGF-DNA
Recovery Concentrate
is a highly efficient
cell division factor with a variety of
biological activities. It can repair
epidermis, delay ageing, fade skin
discolouration, inhibit wrinkles and
hydrate the skin. The content of
Epidermal Growth Factor in the body
determines how old the skin is. To
improve the EGF content recommend
your clients to use
morning and
e v e n i n g o n c l e a n s k i n a n d
immediately after any peel treatments,
IPL/Laser treatments and micro-
needling, or prior to application of a
mask during professional treatments
to obtain amazing visible results.
productinnovations
APJ 90
LOOK YEARS YOUNGER
Organic Rosehip Ageless Facelift Pack
Phone Organic
Rosehip Skincare 1300 552 386 Email:
Six full-sized active skincare products are included in the Organic Rosehip
Ageless Facelift pack. Containing organic rosehip oil with 77% linoleic and
linolenic acids and rich in natural Vitamin C, these formulations are sure to
transform even the most mature, dry and dehydrated skins. Essential fatty
acids in their bioavailable form are known to soothe, calm
and restore skin tone and elasticity by improving
hydration levels and nutrition to the skin. The
Organic Rosehip Ageless Facelift Pack is
excellent for most skin types, including
sensitive and eczema skin conditions. The skin
will benefit from the purity and the effective
delivery of vital actives, leaving it healthy-
looking and more radiant.
Everyday Makeup that treats
your skin while you wear it!
Phone Skin O2 on 07 5593 4488.
SkinO2 offers a premium “cosmedical” makeup range
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contains the highest content of natural minerals,
combined with potent active vitamins and anti-ageing
peptides to help treat the skin, while you wear it! SkinO2
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technology so it looks and feels natural on all skin types,
including male clients, while providing exceptional
coverage. SkinO2 Cosmedical Makeup opening orders
start from $2,500 and APJ readers can get $400 credit this
month towards their salon makeup opening orders if you
mention this article.
Lead the way with anti-ageing skincare results with
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For enquiries Ph: SkinO2
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Do you want to be an anti-ageing skin therapist and provide the latest anti-ageing treatments at your clinic? Discover the total professional
package that will help you achieve amazing in-clinic Skin O2 treatments. With Dr Atia's leading treatment protocols, your clients or patients can
enjoy immediate visible skin improvement, while maintaining their results through high-
quality cosmedical homecare. Originally formulated for doctors and paramedical
professionals, Dr Atia's Skin O2 range is based on cutting-edge clinically proven
cosmedical ingredients known to regenerate, restore and renew the skin from deep within.
Discover the next generation anti-ageing peptides, advanced botanicals, high-dose
vitamins and transdermal formulations as well as fruit acid peels that restore skin
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Experience the difference and benefit from Dr Atia's world-
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S k i n O 2 S a l o n G e t
Professional start-up kits
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™Smooth Affair Facial Primer & Brightener
The Look radiant… The Feel uplifting!
Smooth Affair Facial Primer and Brightener
For more information or to find out how to become a
jane iredale stockist, call 1300 SKINCARE or visit www.margifox.com.au
To ensure a perfect finished makeup a makeup primer is a must! Formulated to smooth, brighten and
enhance your natural beauty! has anti-ageing properties that
even skin tone, minimise the appearance of pores and increase luminosity – a great primer to smooth
and nourish the skin. Use Smooth Affair under foundation to allow makeup to glide on more easily and
last longer. This product has a light, fresh fragrance that is uplifting. To apply use fingertips to spread
evenly until primer has been absorbed. This product can be used with or without your favourite
moisturiser for healthy-looking, radiant skin.
NEW: Super Hair Removal
IPL Technology The new system combines laser technology and the
benefits of pulsating light to remove hair at a faster, more
effective rate. Difficult hairs can be treated through In-
Motion IPL for operator speed, patient comfort and better
protection of the skin. It achieves this by providing a
gradual thermal rise to the target therapeutic temperature
without risk of injury. It eliminates the common problem
of missed or skipped areas with comprehensive coverage
to legs, arms and backs. Normal IPL with Multipulse
modes focuses energy on one pulse, so it is easy to burn
the client, however, SHR emits a single pulse mode for
safer treatments. The SHR filters violet light, while
infrared light will absorb water targeting the skin with no
side effects. SHR accelerates operation speed and
shortens the time for treatments with 1-10Hz. Moving
the head along the skin with a faster repetition rate of
shots fired per millisecond requires less time per
treatment. Call Bodilite Systems & Solutions on 07
5477 6738 Email: [email protected]
™ Vivid pigments blend with nourishing natural oils and superfruit extracts in the NEW PureMoist Lipstick from jane iredale THE SKIN CARE
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For more information or to find out how to
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Live in Full Bloom – NEW PureMoist™ Lipstick from jane iredale, in 24 moisturising shades
APJ 91
The formulated by Nancy Evans was developed due
to her son's skin eczema caused by harmful chemicals in the environment. This
inspired her to deliver 100% pure organic ingredients to nourish, rebalance and
restore hydration and calm to eczema skin conditions. The Organic Rosehip
Eczema Pack is formulated to relieve itchiness and inflammation from the skin,
offering one of the most effective treatment options available on the market today.
The pack includes four products:
to cleanse and moisturise without drying
excellent for drawing out toxins and impurities
is a natural source of nutrients and antioxidants, rich in
Vitamins C, E, B1, B2, B3, B6, B12, Magnesium, Calcium, Zinc, Iron, Copper,
Protein, Potassium and more
is rich in vitamin C and antioxidants to restore hydration
to the skin throughout the day.
Organic Rosehip Eczema Pack
1.The Organic Cleansing Bar –
2. Face & Body Peel –
3. Organic Noni Cream –
4. Rosehip Body Care oil –
Contact Organic Rosehip Skincare 1300 552 386
Email: [email protected]
The perfect solution for Eczema and Sensitive Skin
This amazing body cream provides deep nourishment, intense
hydration and acute care for dry, itchy, cracked and inflamed skin.
Recommend for psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis as well as during and
post radiation and chemotherapy. This product has also been
“Approved for Use by Diabetics” by several societies, as has the
entire AHAVA Dermud body care range. All AHAVA body and spa
care products are more than pampering. Each product has been
researched and developed with meticulous care in the same way as
their facial care products in order to impart true skin health benefits.
For further details contact Skin Factors Ph: 1800 824 282 or
visit www.ahava.com.au
Successful Body Sculpturing with
SLIMLUX V2
Contact The Global Beauty Group on 1300
660 687 or visit www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au
Ground-breaking design equips the Slimlux V2™ fat cavitation
machine with four different cellulite and fat reduction functions that
aim to blast away fat, reduce cellulite and tighten the skin. Other
benefits of this all-in-one body sculpting device includes technology
to smooth the appearance of scars and wrinkles, stimulate
production of new collagen and invigorate blood and lymphatic flow
to unveil over a course of treatments, a rejuvenated, toned and more
youthful appearance.
APJ 92
CHRISTINA COSMECEUTICALS UNSTRESS PROBIOTIC DAY CREAM
The effective solution for health-challenged skin
After a long wait, Mirabella Beauty
welcomes the arrival of its popular
Colour Luxe Lip Gloss in LUSTRE!
Phone
Absolute Spa 1300 262 275 or visit www.absolutespa.com.au
This sparkly hue applies clear, giving lips a glamorous
glow with three-dimensional, light-reflecting shimmer. In
addition to the high-shine finish, Colour Luxe contains a
patented anti-ageing peptide to restore lip tissue, boost
collagen and retain moisture. Monoi de Tahiti acts as a
natural barrier against dehydration, while jojoba oil conditions lips.
“The Colour Luxe formula is packed with good-for-you antioxidants,
such as Vitamins A, C and E, as well as pomegranate extract,” says
Amber Bowen, Mirabella Creative Director. “The combination of
iridescent and pearlescent pearls gives lips a star-like effect that's long-
lasting and transfer-resistant.
“Lustre applies clear, but the intense shimmer of the formula makes the
finish high-impact. Wearing this gloss over a bare lip really showcases
the sparkle, and extending the gloss line slightly outside the lip makes the
mouth appear fuller,” adds Jasmine Dashtizad, Mirabella National
Trainer. “The custom applicator combines the benefits of a brush and
flocked sponge, resulting in precise and controlled application. I
recommend using Lustre to complement bolder eye makeup, such as an
ombré effect using the new Colour Queen Daring Duos.”
AHAVA DERMUD NOURISHING BODY CREAM
A treatment cream for the body
Skin that is health-challenged needs special care and consideration. This
is particularly pertinent to skin that is inflamed, sensitive and damaged.
UNTRESS Probiotic Day Cream with SPF 12 is the ideal daycare for
skin with a compromised and disturbed barrier function. This soothing
cream protects and calms stressed skin from environmental damages and
internal influences. It is enriched with deep penetrating antioxidant
peptides that support DNA protection and cell function and prevent
c o l l a g e n d a m a g e . U N S T R E S S
diminishes the effects of inflammation
and soothes irritated skin, while restoring
moisture levels to the skin. UNSTRESS
is highly recommend for clients with
rosacea, diabetes, and various forms of
dermatitis. For further details contact
Skin Factors Ph: 1800 824 282 or visit www.ahava.com.au
LIQUID GOLD
The Gold
Standard for
Skin Renewal
For these and other effective
cel l - target ing products
phone ALPHA-H 1800 659 777
or 07 5529 4866.
This cult skin resurfacing
treatment essentially tricks the
skin into behaving like it is
years younger. It treats and
prepares the skin for further
treatment procedures such as
Photo Dynamic Therapy, Laser
and IPL. By starting the skin's
n a t u r a l w o u n d - h e a l i n g
response Liquid Gold triggers
the skin to produce its own
collagen and Hyaluronic Acid
to make its own moisture.
APJ 93
®NEW Skin Care by d'vine Internet protected, Chiral corrected
ingredients, paraben free, 100% markup
Contact: Dynamic Skin Solutions Phone: 02 9525 8368
Email: [email protected]
Launched at the recent Sydney International Spa and Beauty Expo ®d'vine skincare ranged distributed by Dynamic Skin Solutions brings a
new exciting concept to the incredible world of professional skincare. ®Made from the finest wine, grape and vine essences, skincare by d'vine
evokes the lushness of vineyards for spas, salons and medical spas
looking to set themselves apart. The world's most complete vine therapy
collection offers products for face, body, hand and foot treatments for ®women, and an exclusive line for men. d'vine includes both
professional products with signature treatments and retail products for ®continued results and benefits. d'vine products are loaded with
beneficial antioxidants, polyphenols, flavonoids, resveratrol and other ®nutrients that replenish and revitalise the skin. All d'vine products are
paraben free and encourage healthy skin cell rejuvenation through the introduction of safe and chirally correct ingredients. The concentration
®of natural antioxidants in the d'vine complex eliminate the need for
chemical preservatives. They offer a spa experience, with medical-grade
results!
FASTLUX combining bipolar
radio frequency and IPL
Contact The Global Beauty Group on 1300 660 687
or visit www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au
The Fastlux™ IPL machine now comes with advanced E-Light
Technology that combines bipolar radio frequency, intense pulse
light and skin contact cooling to deliver a variety of popular beauty
treatments, including permanent hair reduction, removal of skin
discolouration and blemishes, anti-ageing skin rejuvenation and
targeted treatment of acne and rosacea. The Fastlux™ IPL machine
works effectively on even soft, thin hair and discomfort during
treatment that is significantly lower than traditional IPL applications
thanks to the radio frequency and skin-cooling system technology.
VITAMIN A + E 50/50
Time release at its best Intensive skin repair and
rejuvenation
For these and other effective cell-
targeting products phone ALPHA-H
1800 659 777 or 07 5529 4866.
Alpha-H have launched an intensive night-
time restorative treatment targeting ageing,
thickened, pigmented and acne-scarred skins.
ALPHA-H VITAMIN A + E 50/50 is a
synergistic duo formula of Retinol and Retinyl
Propionate that is accepted into the skin
slowly, encouraging a gentle response
deep within the epidermis for super-
charged benefits. Ferulic Acid has the
ability to inhibit tyrosinase activity,
therefore allowing it to reduce skin ageing
and hyperpigmentation at its core. The
time-release delivery of these exceptional
i n g r e d i e n t s e n c o u r a g e s : t i s s u e
regeneration, collagen production, boosts
the immune system and accelerates cell
repair.
treatmentprocedures
appropriate solution to their problem. These three key steps (Problem, With changes in season most of us undertake a “wardrobe review”
Reason and Solution) are the vital points to ensuring you deliver a great to determine changes in our clothing that will best suit the changing
client experience and help your client's skin to continually improve.temperatures. For example, at the end of the summer months I
generally move out the clothing that I have been wearing in the
So let's look at an example of how we can put this into place. I was warmer weather and move in clothing more suitable for layering as
assessing a client recently who had quite deep lines, especially on her we transition into the cooler months ahead.
cheeks and mid-face area. She was only in her late 40s and I was
intrigued as to why her skin had aged prematurely. The more questions I With this in mind how many of us encourage our clients to do the
asked the more the pieces of the puzzle came together and we finely same with their skincare? I guess with the skin, I am not just
identified that these wrinkles had started to appear when her daughter referring to external (seasonal) changes, but also to possible
had been diagnosed with cancer. This was an extremely traumatic time internal changes due to other influencing factors, such as stress,
for her and the shock was too much for her system to bear and so her hormonal changes or even health issues.
body's ability to renew and repair was severely hindered – resulting in
her skin ageing extensively in just a few months. It is vital that we are constantly assessing our clients’ skin, as we can
never assume that what we prescribed during their last visit is what
She was a lady that had always looked after her skin, and I feel if her skin their skin needs now, as not only does the weather change, but often
therapist at the time has assessed her skin and her circumstances so do their stress levels or other systemic changes they may be
correctly and prescribed products to fight this extreme skin deterioration undergoing.
then her skin may not have suffered as badly.
I spoke to a client recently who had been having a few issues with
So now that I had identified the problem and the reason for the her skin and it turned out that she had, during the past three months,
deterioration my next step was to recommend a solution both for her developed a food intolerance. As we discussed her skin issues in
salon treatments and homecare. My solution for this type of more detail she brought this up and this was the missing link that I
deterioration included the use of the following ingredients: Peptides, was looking for. This was just another example of how there are so
Pro-collagestine-Fill, Plant Stem Cells and Retinol as these would many things that can affect our skin, and it highlights the
improve tone and elasticity as well as stimulate and support cell renewal. importance of a thorough review and questioning at the beginning
of each treatment to ensure every possible issue that is contributing
For my professional treatment I selected Germaine de Capuccini's to any changes in the skin are identified, in order that correct
Timexpert Rides treatment (better known in Australia as “Better Than treatment and skincare recommendations can be determined. So
Botox”). This treatment works with two peptides – Hexapeptide to that brings me back to where it all started – the client consultation.
minimise the messages from the neurosensor to the muscle and in turn
reducing movement in the area that will cause expression lines and skin SKIN ASSESSMENT AND REVIEWdeterioration. It also contains Pentapeptide that plums the skin and
To ensure that you have “all the pieces of the puzzle” you must ask reduces the length and depth of the wrinkles. To rebuild the extracellular
the correct questions to allow you to probe for all the relevant matrix the treatment also contains Pro-collagestine-Fill. The main
information so that you can identify the problem, discuss the components of this are alkylamides, which are capable of activating the
reasons why the client is experiencing this problem and suggest the
appropriate solution to their problem. These three key steps (Problem, With changes in season most of us undertake a “wardrobe review”
Reason and Solution) are the vital points to ensuring you deliver a great to determine changes in our clothing that will best suit the changing
client experience and help your client's skin to continually improve.temperatures. For example, at the end of the summer months I
generally move out the clothing that I have been wearing in the
So let's look at an example of how we can put this into place. I was warmer weather and move in clothing more suitable for layering as
assessing a client recently who had quite deep lines, especially on her we transition into the cooler months ahead.
cheeks and mid-face area. She was only in her late 40s and I was
intrigued as to why her skin had aged prematurely. The more questions I With this in mind how many of us encourage our clients to do the
asked the more the pieces of the puzzle came together and we finely same with their skincare? I guess with the skin, I am not just
identified that these wrinkles had started to appear when her daughter referring to external (seasonal) changes, but also to possible
had been diagnosed with cancer. This was an extremely traumatic time internal changes due to other influencing factors, such as stress,
for her and the shock was too much for her system to bear and so her hormonal changes or even health issues.
body's ability to renew and repair was severely hindered – resulting in
her skin ageing extensively in just a few months. It is vital that we are constantly assessing our clients’ skin, as we can
never assume that what we prescribed during their last visit is what
She was a lady that had always looked after her skin, and I feel if her skin their skin needs now, as not only does the weather change, but often
therapist at the time has assessed her skin and her circumstances so do their stress levels or other systemic changes they may be
correctly and prescribed products to fight this extreme skin deterioration undergoing.
then her skin may not have suffered as badly.
I spoke to a client recently who had been having a few issues with
So now that I had identified the problem and the reason for the her skin and it turned out that she had, during the past three months,
deterioration my next step was to recommend a solution both for her developed a food intolerance. As we discussed her skin issues in
salon treatments and homecare. My solution for this type of more detail she brought this up and this was the missing link that I
deterioration included the use of the following ingredients: Peptides, was looking for. This was just another example of how there are so
Pro-collagestine-Fill, Plant Stem Cells and Retinol as these would many things that can affect our skin, and it highlights the
improve tone and elasticity as well as stimulate and support cell renewal. importance of a thorough review and questioning at the beginning
of each treatment to ensure every possible issue that is contributing
For my professional treatment I selected Germaine de Capuccini's to any changes in the skin are identified, in order that correct
Timexpert Rides treatment (better known in Australia as “Better Than treatment and skincare recommendations can be determined. So
Botox”). This treatment works with two peptides – Hexapeptide to that brings me back to where it all started – the client consultation.
minimise the messages from the neurosensor to the muscle and in turn
reducing movement in the area that will cause expression lines and skin SKIN ASSESSMENT AND REVIEWdeterioration. It also contains Pentapeptide that plums the skin and
To ensure that you have “all the pieces of the puzzle” you must ask reduces the length and depth of the wrinkles. To rebuild the extracellular
the correct questions to allow you to probe for all the relevant matrix the treatment also contains Pro-collagestine-Fill. The main
information so that you can identify the problem, discuss the components of this are alkylamides, which are capable of activating the
reasons why the client is experiencing this problem and suggest the
The Constantly changing Skin and the Value of
ASSESSMENT AND REVIEW By Tess Walls
APJ 94
biomechanical functions of the fibroblasts, which recover the
contractile and synthesis capacity of the main components of the
dermis, repair the fibres of the extracellular matrix and rebuild the
“architecture” of the skin to repair damage that has occurred
previously. This treatment delivers great results after just one
treatment, and I have included some before and after photos of a
treatment that was performed on another client below.
Before and After Results achieved after one treatment
HOMECAREThe second and most essential part of the solution is in fact the
homecare prescription. This is important so that we can support and
intensify the result achieved in the salon with daily application of
these ingredients, otherwise the client is wasting their money. For
this client I would recommend the use of a skin-prepping cleanser
and lotion. I love to use ones with a high percentage hyaluronic acid.
I would then recommend the use of a serum containing all the
ingredients I have used in my in-salon treatment. A serum is a must
in any homecare prescription to regenerate the extracellular matrix
and stimulate cell renewal. I then follow the serum with a treatment
cream (again containing the ingredients I have used in my
professional treatment) and, of course, I always follow with an SPF
30 or 50 emulsion, as I prefer the use of a light-textured SPF. These
are hard to find, but once you find one and introduce it to your clients
they sell extremely well.
With the correct diagnosis to identify the problem and determine the
reason you are then able to select the right treatment that will deliver
the necessary solution. With these three simple steps you will be able
to achieve success each and every time with your treatments. The
skin will then need to be further supported with the appropriate
homecare ingredients to ensure you deliver the ultimate results.
If you believe you would like further help in achieving ongoing
success with your treatments please feel free to contact me.
Tess Walls is a qualified Beauty Therapist, Trainer and Director of ISPA
Group and the Australian Distributor of the skincare brand Germaine de
Capuccini. She has 20 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry
in Australia and has a passion for helping others build their business
step-by-step. Tess has also undertaken studies on the psychology of sales
and loves imparting her knowledge to others. She works extensively
within the aesthetic and spa industry teaching therapists how to offer
exceptional client services to their clients. Tess is no stranger to success.
She has owned her own salon and managed spas in exclusive
international resorts, including they Hyatt Regency Spa, Grand Cayman
Island, Caribbean and is an acknowledged expert in spa and salon
systems. If you believe that Tess can help you grow your business phone
1300 432 100 or mobile 0424 419 876.
HydraFacial is continuing its ongoing growth in Australia with its
unique technology that delivers the results of an advanced multi-stage
facial without the side-effects of more aggressive treatments.
Aesthetic clinics across Australia have achieved success with the
system and have clients excited with the results that HydraFacial
delivers for their skin.
The success in Australia has followed ongoing achievements in the
USA where HydraFacial recently was recently voted LNE & Spa's
Machine of the Year for the third year running. The secret to
HydraFacial's success is that it consistently delivers results for all skin
types and clients walk out feeling an immediate, undeniable
improvement in their skin. Importantly, they keep coming back for
more.
High Tech Laser's Matt Moncrieff said clinics preferred HydraFacial
because it provided instant results and increased client retention. “We
have seen HydraFacial used in diverse locations, but the theme is HydraFacial gives the therapist a variety of treatment options with the consistent. The HydraFacial is different and it instantly gives the ability to deliver anti-oxidants or glycolic acid peels simultaneously client skin that looks and feels great.” with dermabrasion. The system can improve the appearance of fine
lines, wrinkles, acne, hyperpigmentation, congested pores and uneven Rhiannon Nichols of Just Magic Skin Care Clinic in Queensland said skin tone with no surgery, no injections and no downtime. The ability the HydraFacial was the most popular treatment in her clinic and has to extract blackheads in seconds has added to the instant change that achieved great results from both a clinical and a business perspective. clients feel after a treatment. “HydraFacial is one treatment that all my clients love and repeatedly
keep coming back for. The results I have achieved with clients are The HydraFacial works well before and after advanced treatments beyond what I could have expected when I bought the machine.“ such as IPL, laser, micro-needling and certain types of fillers. Many
advanced treatments such as these create a wound-healing response, “The HydraFacial treatments can be tailored for almost any skin type and by having the skin healthy prior to treatment the skin is better and clients feel an instant, positive change in their skin. You don't placed to create the desired outcome. Irene Vassilakos, Director of need a sales pitch. You just perform a HydraFacial treatment and let Flinders Cosmetics & Consultancy, was one of the first to choose them feel their skin. They often can't stop touching their skin. The HydraFacial in Australia and has achieved a great response from her silky smooth feeling they experience for days sells the treatment for patients as a stand-alone treatment and in conjunction with other you and will keep them revisiting your clinic for more.” advanced treatments.
“Flinders Cosmetics & Consultancy have been using the
HydraFacial System from High Tech Laser and we have found it to be
most valuable, enhancing our laser treatments or as a stand-alone A key feature of HydraFacial's success in clinics is that the results
device to treat troublesome skin issues. Considering how effective it is clients can see and feel after each treatment drive word of mouth
in treating most skin types, while successfully addressing very referrals. Matt Moncrieff said these results, and the HydraFacial Skin
particular skin issues, I believe every client should be eager to try this Health For Life™ program, made the system easy to market.
treatment before any standard facial. In fact, we have found that
clients who receive the HydraFacial before and after our laser “The Skin Health For Life™ program is something clients relate to
treatments are seeing even more impressive results. After one and understand. The program educates clients that, in the same way
treatment, you'll notice softer, more hydrated skin, decreased pore they go to gym regularly to have a fit body, they need to have regular
size, and a more even skin tone. HydraFacial is the best value in treatments to maintain skin health for life. Skin Health For Life™
skincare we have introduced into our clinic,” Irene confirmed.focuses clients on moving beyond just improving the external
appearance of their skin and actually restoring youthful, healthy skin In addition to monthly HydraFacial treatments salons can also sell a
through a combination of monthly professional HydraFacial specially formulated, salon-only HydraFacial product range that
treatments and daily at-home products. When clients embrace this complements the treatment. While salons can continue to recommend
philosphy they realise that skin health is a necessity, not a choice, and any quality product range, consumers have responded well to the
they become more committed to the process of professional skin care.HydraFacial products because they understand it will maintain their
results in between treatments.
“Our Skin Health For Life™ philosophy is one advantage our owners
have over the competition. As clients keep coming back for their
regular treatment it provides the clinic with more opportunities to sell
extra products and services every few weeks.”
ENHANCING THE EFFECTS OF ADVANCED
TREATMENTS
SKIN HEALTH FOR LIFE™ PROGRAM RESONATES
WITH CLIENTS
The HydraFacial is available in Australia through High Tech
Laser. Call 1300 309 233 or visit www.HydraFacial.com.au for
more information.
starperformer
APJ 96
HydraFacial Voted “Machine of the Year” third year in a row
while its Success Continues To Grow In Australia
APJ 98
As part of several protocols to stimulate collagen density we often
use procedures that are to some degree invasive, such as collagen
induction therapy, laser and IPL procedures as well as Thermage,
just to name a few. These procedures stimulate the dermis to
achieve a level of skin tightening. They achieve this by creating
micro-trauma in an attempt to stimulate fibroblasts and growth
factors and stimulate cell turnover.
Without a healthy immune system healing in the body is impaired, Heating collagen breaks down hydrogen bonds in its chains, causing
skin repair may be compromised and the skin can also become its structure to shorten and thicken. So immediately after say a
susceptible to infections, and this is an area that should concern every Thermage procedure and for a few weeks, this shortening will lead to a
aesthetician.visible tightening effect. Think of how eggs look like when you
scramble them: Collagen, like eggs, is a protein that is affected When considering supporting the immune system in conjunction with
drastically by heat. However, as the body clears out the damaged lymphatic drainage, the use of essential oils can offer great tools to
collagen, this initial effect does not last. In the long term denaturing support the healing process. In this article I want to specifically draw
collagen signals skin fibroblasts to produce new, healthy collagen, attention to a less-known essential oil called Bay Laurel (Laurus
leading to skin tightening seen after a few months.nobilis).
On the other hand surgical procedures that aim at restructuring Most of us are familiar with the common Bay leaf used in cooking.
features are invasive, creating wounding that needs to heal.However, the essential oil of this plant offers amazing healing,
calming and immune stimulating properties that can be used to Our nature healing mechanism is directly associated to our immune
support a client pre and post-surgically, as well as less-invasive system and so treatments and techniques that support the lymphatic
treatments that aim at cell renewal.and immune system are useful when included as part of our protocols.
For example, lymphatic drainage is a very beneficial treatment both I first heard about Bay Laurel when undertaking a course with Dr. Kurt
pre and post-operatively as well as in conjunction with other skin-Schnaubelt on Aromatic Chemistry at Monash University. Dr
rejuvenating treatments, including microcurrent, LED, iontophoresis Schnaubelt is recognised as a leading world expert in the chemistry of
and all of the above procedures we have already mentioned.
BAY LAUREL and its role inImmune support in Aesthetics
By Tina Viney
BAY LAUREL and its role inImmune support in Aesthetics
By Tina Viney
keyingredientkeyingredient
APJ 99
essential oils. In his lecture he made special reference to some of the other people. The Bay Laurel essential oil will help keep your mind
wonderful healing constituents of Bay Laurel and its positive effects sharp and active, while acting as a disinfectant.
on the lymphatic system.
: Bay Laurel in high doses is a possible irritant
to sensitive skin so it must be diluted with massage oil prior to external
use. Do not use in large doses on lymph nodes; doing so can result in Aromatically Bay Laurel exhibits a fresh herbacous, fruity and
uncomfortable detoxification symptoms. Use also in moderation to camphorous characteristic which is a very pleasant, fresh and
avoid possible narcotic effects. Also, since the oil is emmenagogue welcoming essence to inhale, inducing almost immediate relaxation,
onstituents are also very interesting and and can bring on a delayed menstrual cycle, it should not be used while its chemical c
include: during pregnancy.a-pinene, B-pinene, myrcene, limonene, linalool, methyl
chavicol, neral, a-terpineol, geranyl acetate, eugenol and cavicol.
Essential oils should never be used undiluted unless Bay Laurel is recognised for its regenerating and antiseptic properties. you are formally trained to do so. They can be diluted in a ration of 1-A good infection-fighting agent and lymph stimulant, it is also 3% within a carrier, preferably a cold-pressed, organic oil such as particularly beneficial for its antiseptic properties for recurrent viral or hazelnut, almond or apricot oils.respiratory conditions, including colds, flu, tonsillitis and allergies,
especially when congestion and infection are involved. In several To gain extra benefit, Bay Laurel can also be inhaled and should be studies, Bay Laurel essential oil was found to counteract drug- used on both the face and body through appropriate massage and resistant strains of Campylobacter jejuni bacteria, which causes lymphatic drainage techniques. Utilising this modality with the use of diarrhoea. Bay Lauren can be a valuable catalyst in supporting the lymphatic and immune system, further enhancing treatment recovery as well as Bay Laurel is an excellent tonic for cleansing organs such as the improving the client experience. kidneys, liver, spleen as well as for the digestive system. Historically
it has also been used to aid indigestion, flatulence and diarrhoea, and
as an appetite stimulant. According to Dr Schnaubelt it is a superior
lymphatic cleanser, acting as a detoxifier and immune stimulant. In (Angelica archangelica or A. officinalis) Anti-fact, in his book, Medical Aromatherapy: Healing with essential oils,
infectious and strengthens the immune system but is Dr Schnaubelt states “its positive effects on the lymphatic system are photosensitising so do not use on areas of the skin that will be undeniable. Rubbing a few drops of Bay Laurel on swollen lymph exposed to sunlight. nodes will produce an immediately noticeable relieving effect.”
(Citrus bergamia) An antiseptic essential oil that not
only helps destroy infectious microbes, but also helps strengthen This is important as the lymphatic system is basically the body's sewer the immune system. Photosensitising. system and a component of our immune system. When the body is
processing a lot of waste the nodes or intersections of that system tend (Piper nigrum) A warming essential oil that acts to swell, clog up and become painful to the touch and waste processing against respiratory congestion, viruses and bacteria. slows down. By cleansing the lymphatic system in essence we are (Cinnamomum zeylanicum) An antiseptic essential oil strengthening the immune system, which is critical for wound healing that will irritate skin if applied topically. and cellular repair. (Eucalyptus globulus, E. radiata, E. citriodora) Helps clear respiratory congestion and kills bacteria as well as Bay Laurel is also a wonderful aid for relieving stress and anxiety. It is other germs. stimulating, invigorating and can clear the mind and help calm
(Pelargonium graveolens) Antiseptic, antiviral and stressful feelings, as well as assists in improving clarity and memory.
antibacterial as well as mixing well with other essential oils. Bay Laurel also helps in relieving headaches.
(Zingiber officinale) Shown to increase natural immune
defences at the cellular level and is strong against herpes colds, On an emotional level many experts consider Bay Laurel as a and other viruses. wonderful oil for promoting confidence and for helping maintain
(Juniperus communis) A disinfectant essential oil courage and focus when dealing with challenges or new ideas. Valerie traditionally used to ward off infectious diseases. Ann Worwood in her book Aromatherapy and the Soul says about Bay
(Ravensara aromatica; Cinnamomum camphora) Laurel essential oil “it will encourage confidence, fortitude, Strong against all viruses, even herpes and other viral infections. inspiration, protection, direction and creativity”.
(Rosmarinus officinalis) A very strong antiseptic,
rosemary is also useful for respiratory ailments, making it a logical choice for influenza outbreaks. Antibacterial, anticonvulsant, anti-infectious, antimicrobial,
antiseptic, digestive aid, expectorant, emmenagogue, (Melaleuca alternifolia) Better against fungi and immunostimulant, lymphatic cleanser, decongestant and nerve bacteria, tea tree is still effective against viral infections and relaxant. seems to also increase the speed with which the immune system
responds to threats of infections. Bay Laurel is also known to soothe muscular aches, pains, and strains (Thymus vulgaris) Strong antiseptic and antiviral – used following a workout it will prevent soreness and lactic acid essential oil.buildup. It is also a phenomenal hair and scalp tonic. Added to
shampoo or conditioner it will help fight hair loss and dandruff and
support scalp health. Advanced Aromatherapy: The Science of Essential Oil Therapy by Kurt
Schnaubelt, PhDAdded to a diffuser in a work space Bay Laurel offers excellent Herbal Antibiotics: Natural Alternatives for Treating Drug-Resistant Bacteria by protection when you are concerned about environmental germs from Stephen Harrod Buhner
Responsible CautionsTHERAPEUTIC AND CHEMICAL CONSTITUENTS
Method of use:
Other essential oils with antibacterial properties and to support
the immune system include:
Angelica
Bergamot
Black Pepper
Cinnamon
Eucalyptus
Geranium
Ginger
Juniper
Ravensara
RosemaryBay Laurel's predominant therapeutic properties are:
Tea Tree
Thyme
SOURCES:
specialityclients
APJ 100
Each and every day as aestheticians we encounter various skin through effective skin-improvement strategies. Diabetes is a chronic
conditions that we are required to address and provide solutions for. condition, which means that it's long-lasting, often for someone's
Some of these are topical, while others are systemic in their origin and whole life. For our body to work properly we need to convert glucose
the result of an underlying medical condition. (sugar) from food into energy. The hormone insulin is essential for the
conversion of glucose into energy.
As responsible practitioners we are required to conduct a thorough
and meticulous skin evaluation to determine any underlying health In people with diabetes, insulin is no longer produced or not produced
concerns that may have contributed to the manifestations that we are in sufficient amounts by the body. So when people with diabetes eat
observing on the skin. This is now expected of us if our clients are glucose, which is in foods such as breads, cereals, fruit and starchy
going to continue to trust our knowledge and expertise. vegetables, legumes, milk, yoghurt and sweets, it can't be converted
into energy. Instead of being turned into energy the glucose stays in
In this article I wish to address the needs of the diabetic client, as the blood. This is why blood glucose levels are higher in people with
diabetics can be more prone to skin issues than our other clients. In diabetes. Glucose is carried around in the body through the blood.
some cases you will be faced with multiple challenges as these clients Your blood glucose level is called glycaemia. There are two types of
often suffer from rosacea or hyperpigmentation. As a skincare diabetes – type 1 and type 2.
practitioner who treats various skin conditions, an understanding of
the underlying pathology can make an enormous difference to how
you select your treatment options and strategies, especially in this era In type 1 diabetes the pancreas, which is a large gland behind the of numerous advanced technologies. stomach, stops making insulin. Without insulin, the body's cells
cannot turn glucose (sugar) into energy. Without insulin the body
burns its own fats as a substitute. Unless treated with daily injections
of insulin, people with type 1 diabetes accumulate dangerous Let's look at what the statistics tell us about diabetes? Diabetes is the chemical substances in their blood from the burning of fat. This can world's fastest-growing chronic disease. An estimated 280 cause a condition known as ketoacidosis. This condition is potentially Australians develop diabetes every day, and approximately 1 million life threatening if not treated.Australians have diabetes, but for every person diagnosed it is
estimated that there is another person that is yet to be diagnosed. To stay alive, people with type 1 diabetes depend on up to four insulin
injections every day of their lives. They must test their blood glucose
levels several times daily. The onset of type 1 diabetes typically occurs Diabetes is a chronic condition in which the levels of glucose (sugar) in people under 30 years, but can occur at any age. About 10-15% of in the blood are too high and the body cannot metabolise sugar all cases of diabetes are type 1.efficiently. This condition affects almost every organ, including the
skin. Aestheticians must be attentive to the symptomatic
manifestations of diabetic skin and carefully work with their clients to Type 2 is the most common form of diabetes, affecting 85-90% of all
maintain good skin and body health. Your diabetic clients would people with diabetes. While it usually affects older adults, more and
definitely benefit from your understanding of their health-challenges more younger people, even children, are getting type 2 diabetes.
and from your expert knowledge on how you can support them
Type 1 Diabetes
DIABETES IN AUSTRALIA
WHAT IS DIABETES?
Type 2 Diabetes
Treatment Strategies for the Diabetic ClientTreatment Strategies for the Diabetic ClientBy Matoyla Kollaras
APJ 101
In type 2 diabetes, the pancreas makes some insulin, but it is not
produced in the amount your body needs and it does not work
effectively.
Type 2 diabetes results from a combination of genetic and
environmental factors. Although there is a strong genetic
predisposition, the risk is greatly increased when associated
with lifestyle factors such as high blood pressure, overweight or
obesity, insufficient physical activity, poor diet and the classic
‘apple shape' body where extra weight is carried around the
waist.
Type 2 diabetes can often initially be managed with healthy
eating and regular physical activity. However, over time most
people with type 2 diabetes will also need tablets and many will
also need insulin. It is important to note that this is just the
natural progression of the disease, and taking tablets or insulin
as soon as they are required can result in fewer complications in
the long-term.
Diabetes can affect every part of the body, including the skin.
Indeed, sometimes skin disorders are in fact the first sign that a
person has diabetes. It is estimated that as many as one-third of
diabetics will have a skin disorder. Perhaps the most common of
these problems is dry and itchy skin. This is due to a number of
factors. Some of these include:
Poor microcirculation due to vascular issues resulting in a
reduced availability of nutrition to reach the skin
Frequent urination (polyuria) results in reduced availability
of moisture to the skin
Damaged nerves that no longer tell the skin to sweat, thus
reducing the production of the skin’s natural oils
Diabetic neuropathy due to damaged nerves can result in
numbness, tingling, pain or even 'wasting' in the toes, feet,
legs, hands, arms and fingers. Another condition that you may observe in diabetic patients is
acanthosis nigricans. This is a condition that results in the darkening The dryness and accompanying itching can start small cracks in the and thickening of the skin in body folds and creases. Often areas of tan skin that can lead to the onslaught of bacterial or fungal infections. or brown skin, sometimes slightly raised, appear on the sides of the
neck, the armpits and groin. Acanthosis nigricans usually occurs in Recent scientific research has identified a set of compounds called people who are very overweight, and is most common in Indigenous "AGE" (Advanced Glycation Endproducts). When excess sugar and darker-skinned people. enters the blood-stream it binds to skin proteins such as collagen and
elastin. Once the sugars bind to the collagen and elastin, the proteins Most importantly you must keep in mind that diabetics suffer poor, mutate creating damaging new molecules known as A.G.Es, and as a slow or incomplete wound healing. result the proteins become cross-linked, more brittle and less elastic,
resulting in significantly prematurely aged skin. This glycation
condition cannot be reversed. A thorough medical history and a detailed and thorough skin and body
analysis that examines the cellular activity of the skin and its tolerance As a professional, you should remain vigilant for telltale signs on the levels is essential for every client, but even more importantly for your skin when delivering facial treatments, waxing, massage or during diabetic client before embarking on any treatments for face or body. manicure and pedicure procedures. Treatments should be carried out ONLY by qualified aestheticians
who have training and knowledge in advanced skin analysis, and Diabetic-related skin conditions such as diabetic dermopathy will always look out for the possibility of sensitivity and allergic reactions manifest as light-brown circular or round scaly patches, most often due to medications, infection and delayed wound healing. occurring on the front of both legs (often mistaken for age spots). You
may notice a thinning of the skin that causes shininess, cracked feet The other consideration with a diabetic client is to meticulously and and heels, painful infection of the nails and cuticles, or yellowish progressively monitor their skin's response to any treatment you plaque that forms over shins. undertake and when in doubt, tread slowly and cautiously. Always
employ best practice techniques taking into consideration the Diabetic clients are also more prone to folliculitis, boils, carbuncles, precautions necessary for this condition. By understanding the disease styes as well as thinning or loss of hair. Fungal infections are also from a mind/body and skin perspective you can make the correct conditions that frequently occur in diabetics and often occur in the recommendations and/or adjust treatments and homecare so that the moist folds of the skin such as under the breasts, around nails, between experience and the results are both safe and beneficial.fingers or toes, the groin and even under the armpits.
IDENTIFYING DIABETIC SYMPTOMS IN THE CLINIC
CONDUCTING SAFE AND BENEFICIAL TREATMENTS
Here are some useful recommendations for the diabetic client:
Reduce sugar and processed foods in their diet and increase the
intake of vegetables, especially dark green leafy vegetables.
Maintain adequate amounts of water – 6-8 glasses a day.
A routine exercise program is very important. Exercise that
promotes blood circulation is not just for cardiac health, but also
for healthy skin.
Keep the skin dry, especially in skin-fold areas such as between
the toes, armpits, groin area and under the breast or any place
where skin touches skin.
Avoid protracted hot baths and showers. If having a bath the
addition of Dead Sea or Epsom salts is recommended. Avoid
bubble bath.
Use mild soaps, or better still, moisturising body washes. Follow
with a nourishing body cream or lotion preferably rich in
minerals.
Prevent dry and itchy skin that can become chapped and cracked
by frequently applying a non-irritating body cream or lotion that
not only hydrates the skin, but also replaces the lost oils.
Recommend they carry a good hand cream in their bag.
Reduce risk of infections in the feet by drying the skin between
the toes carefully after a shower or bath. Moisturising lotions
should never be applied to skin between the toes. Clients should
also regularly check their feet for any sores or cuts.
Apply sunscreen to the tops of their feet and hands. This is
sometimes overlooked and can result in burns or sun damage.
Diabetics can very easily burn their feet and hands, especially if
they have nerve damage and cannot easily feel pain. Avoid being
in the sun during peak hours, which is 11am to 2pm.
TREATMENT CONSIDERATION FOR THE FACE3. Facial and Eyebrow Threading1. Facial treatments
4. IPL/Laser hair removal
5. Manicure and Pedicure
2. Acids and enzyme Peels
3. Microdermabrasion6. Hot and Cold Stone Therapy
4. Dermal Needling7. Paraffin Wax
PRODUCT INGREDIENTS BEST SUITED TO THE SKIN
NEEDS OF DIABETICS
5. IPL/Laser treatments
1. Anti-glycation agents –
2. Anti-inflammatory agents –
6. Electrolysis
7. Cosmetic Tattoo3. Anti-oxidants –
8. LED Light therapy
4. Water-binding agents –
BODY TREATMENTS5. Natural Moisturising Factors –
1. Massage
TAKE A WHOLISTIC APPROACH
2. Waxing
Matoyla Kollaras Director, Skin Factors Pty Ltd, Distributors of CHRISTINA
COSMECEUTICALS, AHAVA, and ANNA LOTAN.
diabetics and can lead to bacteria being trapped under the skin.
This is a more suitable hair-removal alternative, especially for the Insulin is usually injected in the morning. For clients on intermediate face.acting insulin, schedule treatments for mid to late afternoon. For
clients on rapid-acting insulin, schedule treatments 2-3 hours after As mentioned above this is considered a high risk for the type 1 injection. The timings of both are important in order to avoid peak diabetic, however, for milder conditions a full assessment is insulin activity. For advanced or poorly cared for diabetes, face imperative to determine suitability.treatments are contraindicated. Use only treatments and products that
contain ingredients that are beneficial for diabetic skin. Below I have
indicated some recommendations as well as identified some Treat with care and use only sterilised equipment when conducting a contraindications: manicure or pedicure. Do not cut cuticles, do not scrub feet with
pumice or metal files, monitor water temperature and keep it
lukewarm and ensure that you dry between toes and fingers It is recommended that you only use very mild acid or enzyme peels as thoroughly. Be aware that fungal infections, especially of the toenails, diabetic skins are usually very fragile.are common in diabetics.
As a rule microdermabrasion is contraindicated as diabetic skin is Hot stone therapy is contraindicated, especially in the extremities due often very thin and any abrasive action can pose a risk of tearing the to diabetic neuropathy. However, cold stones are indicated, but not skin.iced stones.
A thorough skin evaluation is needed to determine if the use of a This treatment is also contraindicated.dermal roller is safe to use for product penetration. This is with a
needle depth of 0.3mm or 0.5mm or less, which only reaches the
epidermal layers. Collagen Induction Therapy with needle lengths of
above 0.5mm that may create a trauma is contra-indicated due to the
body's poor healing capabilities and is contraindicated for type 1 Strong scientific evidence suggests that the following ingredients are diabetics.some of the most beneficial for the diabetic client – look for these in
treatments and homecare products:Before such treatments a thorough investigative skin analysis must be
We cannot reverse the existing glycation conducted to determine the client's healing capabilities. As a rule non-damage, but we can try and prevent future damage. Look for ablative lasers such as Alexandrite and ND YAG at the right ingredients such as Bilberry, Coffeeberry, L-Carnitine, Lycopene, wavelengths are usually beneficial, but meticulous care must be taken Niacinamide, Pomegranate, Pycnogenol.to ensure this. However, ablative lasers such as Co2 Urbian YAG
Your objective is to reduce cell lasers are definitely contraindicated. Either way, treatment parameters damage from inflammation, redness, swelling and pain as well as should be carefully considered when undergoing any laser treatments.soothe irritated skin, thus improving skin health and preventing
disease and premature ageing. Look for ingredients such as Aloe, Particularly for insulin-dependent diabetes this is definitely Centella Asiatica, Cinammon, Fenugreek, Ginseng, Omega 3, 6 and 9 contraindicated.fatty acids, Vitamin E, Sulphur and Zinc.
These are important in helping fight and reduce A thorough skin-healing assessment is needed to determine suitability free radical damage, fortify the entire skin and repair DNA damage. for this treatment, but as a rule insulin-dependent diabetes type 1 They also help restore the skin's defence barrier and support the skin's diabetics are contraindicated for this procedure.ability to heal. Ingredients to look for include Alpha-Lipoic-Acid
(ALA), B-Complex, Green Tea, Calcium, Chromium, Magnesium, Near-infrared LED light therapy has healing properties as well as
Selenium, Probiotics and Venuceane.Yellow LED, which is good for lymphatic drainage and improving
These are important to restore and blood circulation. Both these are beneficial for diabetic skin maintain the hydration levels of typically dry diabetic skin, and help conditions.prevent TEWL (Trans-epidermal water loss). Good ingredients
include Algae extract, Glycerine, Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium PCA.
One of the primary elements in With diabetic clients caution is also needed with body treatments. Due
keeping skin healthy is making sure the structure of the epidermis and to diabetic neuropathy, clients often have reduced or no feeling in the
in particular the stratum corneum is intact. The repairing components lower extremities of their arms and legs, therefore great caution is
that do this are often called natural moisturising factor (NMF) or needed when performing any treatments to hands or feet as the skin
ingredients that mimic the structure and function of healthy skin. The may easily tear, while they may not feel any sensation from heat or
include amino acids such as Arginine, Jojoba Oil, Olive Oil, Sesame cuts.
Oil, Seabuckthorn, Shea Butter.
This modality can actually increase insulin activity and thus reduce
blood glucose levels, as will the relaxing nature of massage. As a professional aesthetician, you play a vital role in taking care of Therefore, although this treatment is beneficial, keep an eye on your skin and dealing with clients that may manifest with different diseases client and ask questions intermittently during the treatment to check both of the skin and systemically. Making your diabetic clients aware that they are not going into a hypoglycaemic state. The treatment itself of their skin health through active self-monitoring should also be an should be gentle rather than vigorous and do not overwork the body.important part of your communication with them.
As a rule waxing is contraindicated in diabetics. The potential for
micro-tears due to fragile and dry skin gives bacteria the ability to
enter the body. Folliculitis is also an increased risk when waxing
APJ 102
Take the five point business check-up for busy salons...
When you want the perfect fit you need an
INDUSTRY SPECIALIST INSURER
True to its mission, APAN launched their first conference program for ththe year in Adelaide on Sunday 26 May with the theme
“Understanding the new Era of Aesthetics”.
The event was well supported from salons and clinics from the region as well as from other States as eager therapists participated, including WA, Darwin, Queensland, Sydney and Victoria. Industry professionals networked among themselves and also forged some good relationships with skincare and equipment companies, who were also represented through a small exhibition.
These niche conference programs were introduced by APAN in 2009 and have grown from one State per year to three in 2013 with the new name Australian Aesthetic Conference. APAN's objective for these events is to energise the industry through quality, education with a special focus on generic content that delegates can use to benchmark their professional and business decisions. All professional industries conduct generic conference programs, but the aesthetics industry predominantly offers supplier training events and, while these are valuable, their objective is focused on the products they have developed. This often leaves a gap in the area of broader information that is also important for any professional or business owner.
The APAN conference therefore provide the opportunity to present information of global changes, educational options, changes in industry legislation and technology as well as scientific developments that will effect our industry.
The testimonies and feedback were very positive, with many stating that the program helped them gain a greater understanding on the industry's direction that gave them greater clarity and a new perspective of their options and possibilities.
eventreport
APJ 104
APAN's Adelaide Australian Aesthetics
Conference
A Great Success!
“It is such testimonials that are so rewarding and make the hard work that goes into s t a g i n g t h e s e e v e n t s worthwhile,” Tina Viney confirmed. “If we can save businesses in this economic climate and re-energise them with new tools and passion, we would have achieved an impor t an t pa r t o f ou r mission.”
True to his form, Terry Everitt once again was the MC of the conference program, bringing a level of dignity and profess iona l i sm to the program and adding his expert knowledge when presenting the various topics and speakers.
Tina Viney was the first speaker. She presented global research data and an overview of key drivers that will bring changes to the industry. She shared global predictions in skincare and technology and discussed how these will i m p a c t t h e A u s t r a l i a n aesthetic industry.
Tina also defined strategy and discussed how strategic intent can be used as a tool to navigate through change and challenges (a brief outline of this lecture is presented in Tina industry report on pages 50-56).
C a r o l i n e N e l s o n t h e n challenged delegates on the importance of embracing change and moving with the times to implement business systems and strategies that will help them gain the competitive advantage and grow their client base and profitability. She stressed the importance of identifying what no longer works and present new approaches that businesses could immediately implement to turn things around.
Gay Wardle discussed why treatments with IPL/Laser and other technologies are not reaching the mark and the value and importance of proper training in gaining a comprehensive understanding, not only of the new technologies, but also how they effect the skin. She identified new areas of knowledge and training that the industry needs to invest in if they are to meet the growing demands of a changing consumer market.
APJ 105
database, fill in appointment Michael Bishop addressed the gaps and create a better highly contentious issue of the client/salon relationship and law and pitfalls to avoid with loyalty.Independent Contractors
w h e n d e t e r m i n i n g While the conference employment options. He program presented a great shared some amazing court deal of thought-provoking outcomes and fines that many information, delegates were businesses are facing because also recipients of several of a misunderstanding of the lucky door prizes and each law. This lecture brought delegate was able to select a home certain facts that wine of their choice from a allowed businesses to re-think c o l l e c t i o n o f s u p e r b their approach on this subject Willowglen wines from the and offered a great deal of local Barossa Valley and the food for thought.
vineyards of De Bortoli boutique wines.
Dr Chris t ine Houghton The next APAN Australian discussed how external ageing Aesthetic Conference will be can be influenced through
thheld in Sydney on 26 internal inflammation, and August. A full report will be how the new science of presented in the next issue of nutrigenomics utilises the APJ. power of food-der ived
biomolecules that are capable If you have never attended of “switching on” certain these events you will have the genes associated with cellular
rdopportunity to attend the 3 health, support disease conference for the year on the prevention and speed up Gold Coast. See pages 24-26 cellular recovery.for further details. These are fully certified Professional Mark Viney p r e sen t ed Development events. e m e rg i n g n e w a n d h i g h l y - e f f e c t i v e
communication technologies and demonstrated how they can be used to grow a business's
To register visit www.apanetwork.com
APJ 106
Magnesium Chloride: The king of minerals
MAGNESIUM FOR A HEALTHY BODY, MIND
AND RELAXATION
HELPS TO:Relieves StressReduces muscle fatigue and crampsIncreases skin elasticity and vibrancyAssist in having a better night sleepReduces menstrual painReduces hot flushes in menopause High in Vitamin D
Organic Rosehip Skincare1300 552 386
[email protected] | www.rosehipskincare.com
Are you magnesium deficient? Most people are! If you are a person who suffers from stress, depression, muscle spasms, or sore muscles you will feel the benefits of using our Magnesium Detox Gel and Scrub. What is unique about these products is that they contain no synthetic chemicals and are rich in vitamin C for fast absorption. They are specially formulated using the most powerful aromatherapy, herbs, essential oils and essential fatty acids to penetrate deeper into the skin for optimal results.
STAND OUT FROM THE CROWDSTAND OUT FROM THE CROWDCustom Built Smartphone AppsCustom Built Smartphone Apps
HAVE YOUR OWN MOBILE APP BUILT! APAN Strategic Alliance
Partner – Kharis Enterprises are professionally Smart Phone Apps developers. with over 20 years association with the Aesthetic and Beauty Industry.
SOME OF THE FEATURES AN APP CAN SUPPLYPUSH NOTIFICATION – Connect with customers for free. Use “PUSH” Notification to get clients to fill empty treatment slots.
PRODUCT INFORMATION – Include video clips, testimonials and detailed information. The more informed your clients are receiving from you the more likely they will want to purchase your products.
LOYALTY PROGRAM THROUGH GPS COUPONS – Use the Smart Phone built-in GPS to implement “GPS Coupons”.
USING QR CODE COUPONS – Smart Phones scan a digital barcode called a QR Code (see at top). This QR Code is read by the Smart Phone and contains information about anything you want.
Mobile Marketing is themost powerful mediaever invented– New York Times
To discuss your Business App or for further information contact Kharis Enterprises on
Mobile: 0412 177 423 or Email: [email protected]
As a Strategic Alliance Partner, Kharis offer APAN members a discount.
Bodilite provides quality systems and solutions for the Medical, Beauty and Spa industry. We are one of the largest
suppliers of ARTG registered equipment in Australia today. Our high quality equipment, service and training will
optimise your clinic's potential.
The new system combines laser technology and the benefits of pulsating light method achieving practically
painless results. Difficult hairs can be treated through In Motion IPL program for operator speed, patient comfort
and better protection of the skin. It provides a gradual thermal rise to the target therapeutic temperature without
risk of injury eliminating the common problem of missed or skipped areas with comprehensive coverage to legs,
arms and backs. Normal IPLs with Multipulse modes focus energy on one pulse, so it is easy to burn the client,
but SHR emits a single pulse mode for safer treatments. The SHR filtered violet light and infrared light absorbs
water targeting the skin with no side effects. SHR accelerates operation speed and shortens the time for
treatments with 1-10Hz moving the head along the skin with a faster repetition rate of shots fired per millisecond
requiring less time per treatment.
Nd Yag Q Switched Laser tattoo removal
removes all tattoo colours with no scarring or downtime.
Bodislim offers 40,000 HTZ of ultrasound to effectively
blast fat cells into liquid so the body can eliminate fatty
deposits. Results are amazing as you can target areas
that are normally not affected by diet and exercise alone.
The machine has RF skin tightening for the entire body, a
vacuum liposuction head for lymphatic drainage and
smaller ultrasound heads for the face and upper body.
SUPER SHR / SSR IPL - New IPL Technology
LASER TATTOO REMOVAL
BODISLIM
Microdermabrasion
Laser Safety CourseSIB 70110 Vocational Graduate Certificate in IPL / LaserCert III, IV, Diploma of BeautyLaser Tattoo Removal
Ultrasonic Fat Cavitation/RF Skin Tightening Funding also available to approved applicants
Grand Haven InternationalIncrease your qualification and gain recognition
Grand Haven International is a government accredited Registered Training Organisation
(RTO 32104) delivering courses in:
BODILITE – Quality Systems & SolutionsBODILITE systems are classified as Medical Devices with more efficient treatment parameters.
We Offer Great Service – Great Results GRAND HAVEN INTERNATIONAL | Ph: 07 5477 6738
www.grandhaven.com.au | www.bodilite.com.au | The Boulevard Centre, 12B / 68 Jessica Bvd, Minyama QLD
Our devices are tailor-made to our specifications.
APJ 108
This section presents the latest news, training dates and other Aesthetic Industry information.
AESTHETIC INDUSTRY BULLETIN
signify breathing Fiona Tuck of Skinstitut featured di ff i cu l t i e s . The
model then revealed on Channel 7 – The Morning Show she suffered from
rd sleep apnoea and Wednesday July 3 : Fiona Tuck, Managing Director of Skinstitut, was required a machine to featured on Channel 7 The Morning Show discussing how internal help her breathe at health impacts the skin. night.
Fiona discussed how, through Chinese face diagnosis, the face is To view the outcome viewed to be much like a mirror, with internal condition and wellness for models two and reflecting externally three, the segment is through various facets
available to view on The Morning Show website and of our faces. Fiona was the Skinstitut Facebook page. Skinstitut offers given three models to Chinese Face Diagnosis as part of its Advanced analyse. Model one had Holistic Skin Analysis class. a puffy, swollen face.
Fiona explained how
these symptoms are For more information please contact head office connected to the lung on (02) 9460 7559. function and could
after international lecturer, enlightened her audience
on treatments for more stubborn skin conditions such
as acne, scarring and pigmentation.
All guest received “gift bags”, discounted vouchers
and free treatments as part of promotional options,
while there were 21 lucky door prizes valued at $4000
and numerous specials only available on the night.
All staff members were given running sheets to ensure
the event ran smoothly. The evening generated over
$16,000 worth of sales, making it a great success.
Furthermore, the buzz that has been generated will
ensure that staff will be kept busy for several weeks.
Gay, being the generous person that she is, has Having recently upgraded her services to offer more comprehensive offered to assist anyone who would like further details on how to run anti-ageing treatments in her clinic Gay Wardle, one of Australia's their own successful VIP Promotion Event. If you would like to speak leading educators in the aesthetic industry, launched the new services
th with her phone: 07 3208 9255 and have a chat with Gay to gain some through a highly successful VIP night that was held on July 17 at valuable tips on what makes a successful VIP Promotion. Skinology, her salon, which is located in Springwood – a suburb of
Brisbane.
The event saw over 130 very eager consumers attending
to learn and benefit about new and exciting procedures.
Guests were greeted and served with platters of
delicious food and wine and the shopping centre
allowed the use of their floor space just outside the
salon.
Speakers included Dr Hung – a well-known Cosmetic
Physician, who was invited to speak about novel new
procedures including injectable fillers and Platelet Rich
Plasma (PRF) and the value they can offer in improving
skin rejuvenation and anti-ageing results.
Debbie Dickson, head of DMK Education and a sought
A SALON PROMOTION WITH A DIFFERENCE
APJ 109
International Aesthetic Show Calendar
Produced by Terry Everitt, Aesthetic Educators
Aug25-26 Sydney Int Spa Beauty ExpoSydney Convention and Exhibition Centre Darling HarbourT: 02 9422 2535 E:[email protected]
Aug26 APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference – SydneySydney Novotel CentralT: 07 55930360F: 07 55930367E: [email protected]
thAug24-25 7 Annual Anti-Aging & Aesthetic Medicine ConferenceSofitel Melbourne T: 03 98130439 F: 03 98130649E: [email protected]
Aug24-26 Face & Body Northern CaliforniaMcEnery Convention CenterSan Jose, CA T: +1-630-653-2155F: +1-630-653-2192E: [email protected]
Sep22-23 Int. Esthetics, Cosmetics & Spa ConferenceBoward County Convention Center Fort Lauderdale, FL, USAT: +1 203-383-0516F: +1 212-895-8209E: [email protected]
Sep29-30 International Congress of Esthetics & Spa Long Beach Convention CenterLong Beach, CaliforniaT: +1 305 443-2322 F: +1 305 443-1664E: [email protected]
Oct6-7 Esthetique SPA InternationalPalais des congrès de MontréalMontreal (QC) CanadaT: + 450 434-4738F: +450 435-2027E: [email protected]
Oct6-7 Professional Beauty DublinRDS DublinT: + 44 (0)844 557 0914E: [email protected]
Oct13-14 Professional Beauty North Manchester CentralT: + 44 (0)844 557 0914E: [email protected]
Oct21-23 Beauty World Japan WestIntex, 1-5-102, Nanko-Kita, Suminoe-ku, Nanko, Osaka T: + 49 69 75 75-0F: + 49 69 75 75-64 33E: [email protected]
COSMECEUTICALS TO EXPERIENCE
CONTINUED GROWTHWhile the interest in cosmetics that are based on biotechnology and plant-derived actives will
continue to grow the latest figures indicate that cosmeceuticals are still experiencing the greatest
global growth in demand as they demonstrate “drug-like” benefits.
Advancements in technology and emergence of new ingredients have further contributed to the
progress in the commercialisation of cosmeceutical products worldwide. In 2011, the market
was estimated to reach US$ 30.5 billion and is likely to augment at a rapid pace in the coming
years growing at a CAGR of around 7.7% during 2012-2016.
According to a new research report, “Global Cosmeceuticals Market Outlook 2016”, the
global cosmeceutical market offers huge potential.
In Australia, according to an IBIS report on cosmetics and toiletries 2013-14, the industry is
expected to post growth of 2.9% bringing industry revenue up to an estimated $3.6 billion. This
compares with revenue of $3.1 billion in 2008-09, equating to annualised growth of 3.2% over
the past five years. While no official figures are available specifically for cosmeceuticals,
according to APAN's figures most suppliers of professional products have experienced a small
but promising growth, with the best figures reflective of their more active or cosmeceutical
products.
The demand for more anti-ageing skincare results by consumers is on the rise. Within the
professional market these results are expected to be delivered through the effective use of
equipment technologies and appropriate advanced skincare formulations. In fact, according to
several suppliers, it is this sector that is leading the growth of the professional beauty industry.http://www.rncos.com/Market-Analysis-Reports/Global-Cosmeceuticals-Market-Outlook-2016-IM473.htm
CONSUMERS SEEKING MAKEUP WITH
SKINCARE BENEFITSAccording to global researchers one of the new
consumer trends is that they are looking for as
many benefits as possible in the one product.
The term that is currently used to describe this
is “multi-functionality” and this now also
includes makeup.
According to one researcher that conducted an
extensive survey, 86% of the women they
researched said that they use makeup with
skincare benefits similar to those that are
present in skincare products. The key benefits
that older women are looking for in makeup
are, added hydrating properties, sun protection
and anti-ageing ingredients to help tone and lift the skin, while younger women looked for
makeup that also help clear the skin of blemishes and pimples.
Makeup with skincare benefits is also driving the popularity of BB and CC creams as these are
identified as offering great value for money. Women are also concerned with toxicity when it
comes to the use of makeup, so ingredient consideration is now becoming more important the
researchers said.
APJ 110
BTTA launches first
government-funded
training program in IPL
and Laser Hair ReductionBeauty Therapy Training Australia (BTTA), a
Queensland-based RTO, was the first to be granted
government funding for the delivery of the Vocational
Graduate Certificate in IPL/Laser Hair Reduction as
part of the National Workplace Development Fund.
The NWDF is a government co-contribution funded
initiative to assist salon businesses gain greater
support through better qualified staff.
“This was a great achievement for our industry,” said
Tina Viney, CEO of APAN. APAN was appointed as
the lead organisation to select the qualification and
determine the RTO selection for this initiative.
“BTTA were the first RTO to be approved to deliver this training and they have worked diligently to
meet with all the extra necessary compliance requirements for this initiative. We are so thrilled to see
the first batch going through,” Tina stated.
BTTA principal Angie Smith commented that this was a very exciting time, both for the applicants and
the college. “ Most of the applicants were already IPL or Laser practitioners and it was a real privilege
for them to also gain formal qualification in these services.
“As a trainer, this was a very rewarding experience in ensuring all practitioners gain full qualification.
It was also alarming to see that several had gaps in the skills and knowledge, but they were thrilled to
finally be fully qualified,” Angie said.
With the introduction of new technologies as an RTO, BTTA has chosen to specialise in the delivery of
post-graduate training and qualifications as the need is becoming increasingly important.
“We train doctors, nurses and beauty therapists in both Laser Safety Courses as well as offer
qualifications for a variety of practices, including IPL and Laser, tattoo removal and other technologies
and practices such as dermal needling, microdermabrasion and microcurrent. It's a very rewarding
experience to see eager therapists gaining formal training and approved qualifications in the services
they deliver, as this is not only great for their clients and businesses, but also for upholding the
reputation of our profession,” Angie said.
To contact Beauty Therapy Training Australia ph: 07 5599 5568.
operate. The flow and EXCITING NEW LAUNCH aspiration of the treatment The Global Beauty Group can be adjusted easily with is excited to announce the the touch of a button with l a u n c h o f t h e B i o - three intuitive settings– Hydroderm Trinity™ that high, medium and low providing a far more thorough service as has just been released on to opposed to the guesswork and estimating that comes along with knob the market as the new wave dial functions. i n h i - t e c h m i c r o -
dermabrasion equipment, Additionally, the Bio-Hydroderm Trinity™ boasts an advanced following the success of crystal-free exfoliation technology thanks to its ergonomic diamond t h e B i o - H y d r o d e r m tip handpiece – this fantastic feature eliminates the concern of crystal machine. debris remaining on the skin's surface. As well as providing deep
exfoliation, the handpiece also efficiently vacuums up all the cellular “Featuring an ultra-sleek design, digital control system and full debris and treatment product into a waste bottle for convenient digital display, it is now easier than ever to perform outstanding disposal. The device is used with specially formulated Aquafuse microdermabrasion services,” Kane Hammond, Managing Director solutions that deeply penetrate and hydrate the skin with powerful of the GBG stated. ingredients designed to address a range of skin concerns, from signs of
ageing and skin brightening to acne management. This is a new-generation device that functions on a fully computerised Contact: The Global Beauty Group on 1300 660 687system, is lightweight, quiet to run and requires very little energy to www.theglobalbeautygroup.com.au
ROYAL BABY AND
THE CHANGE IN
FRAGRANCE
PREFERENCESThe perfume industry in undergoing a
trend shift with a new and stronger
focus on healthy, fresh and food-based
aromas. According to UK fragrance
manufacturer Ungerer Limited we will
see a coming back to old values with
traditional habits such as afternoon tea
that will influence a new direction in
fragrances in 2014. It would appear
that the birth of the new royal baby has
also something to do with the trend for
more wholesome gourmand scents that
blend delicately with fruit and flowers.
The smell of freshly cut flowers, herb
tea and sparking fruit juices and fruity
jams will have a strong influence as
fragrances embrace food and beverage-
inspired scents. No doubt the growing
awareness of environment issues and a
focus away from harmful chemicals
has many looking for a more natural
approach, also to wholesome aromas
that reflect a nostalgic leaning to all
things natural and wholesome.
APJ 111
COSMETIC AND
DERMATOLOGY COMMUNITY
LOSES LEADER IN FIELD OF
ANTIOXIDANT TECHNOLOGY
& SKIN CANCER PREVENTIONDr. Sheldon Pinnell, an internationally eminent scientist,
dermatologist, leading scientist behind L'Oréal-owned
SkinCeuticals, and J. Lamar Callaway Professor Emeritus of
Dermatology and Chief Emeritus of the Division of
Dermatology at Duke University, passed away peacefully in
Durham, North Carolina on Thursday, July 4, 2013 just as the his passion for discovery,
fireworks began to sparkle in celebration of Independence will continue to live on daily
Day. He was aged 76. through all of us here at
SkinCeuticals. I personally Dr. Pinnell's investigative research has changed the way the
have grown and learnt an world uses topical antioxidants today. As the founding father
enormous amount from Dr. of topical antioxidants, he was the first to patent a stable form
Pinnell, and he will be dearly of vitamin C proven through peer-reviewed research to
missed,” said SkinCeuticals effectively penetrate skin, delivering eight times the skin's
Global General Manager, natural antioxidant protection.
Marc Toulemonde.
Before helping to shape the cosmeceutical industry, Dr. “Dr. Pinnell's philosophy
Sheldon Pinnell led major advances in the understanding of and dedication to advancing
skin biology and the pathogenesis of skin diseases. Early in science in the cosmeceutical
his career, he made seminal contributions to the landscape is unlike any we
understanding of Ehlers-Danlos Syndrome and the role of have ever seen, and he
vitamin C in collagen biosynthesis. Dr. Pinnell has been remains an inspiration for us
globally recognised for his contributions to science and today. It is our esteemed
skincare, most recently receiving an honorary membership to privilege to have had the
the Society for Investigative Dermatology. opportunity to learn from the
'Founding Father of Topical Over his lifetime, he also received numerous medical and
Antioxidants' and introduce scientific awards including The Best Doctors in America, The
a range of products that International Who's Who in Medicine, Who's Who in Science
changed the way we care for and Engineering, and Who's Who in America. Dr. Pinnell has
our skin globally,” said published more than 200 scientific articles in peer-reviewed
Brigitte Liberman, World journals on dermatology topics such as photoageing, collagen
Wide President, L'Oréal synthesis, UV protection, topical vitamin C, and other
Active Cosmetic Division.antioxidants. Dr. Pinnell also authored approximately 20
book chapters and holds 10 patents. “Dr. Pinnell had an energy
and enthusiasm for life and a “It is our greatest privilege to have been able to help Dr.
knowledge of dermatology Pinnell bring his discovery of topical antioxidants to life. Prior
that was second to none. He to the introduction of topical vitamin C in the early 1990s,
will be missed by his many colleagues and by dermatologists globally,” said skincare professionals were largely limited to sunscreens to
Jean Krutmann, M.D., Professor of Dermatology and Environmental protect against the deleterious effects of the sun. It was Dr.
Medicine at the Heinrich-Heine-Universität Düsseldorf.Pinnell who gave the medical community the confidence to
transform the approach to at-home skincare. We are fortunate Dr. Pinnell was accomplished in so many ways, but most particularly he would
to have known Dr. Pinnell as a scientist, a family man, and a like to be remembered as a loving husband, father, grandfather, and ardent
dear friend. His life lessons and infectious spirit will remain Duke Blue Devil fan. Dr. Pinnell is survived by his wife, Dr. Doren Madey
with us forever,” said SkinCeuticals Co-Founders, Alden Pinnell; three sons, Kevin, Alden and Tyson; and five grandchildren.
Pinnell and Russell Moon.
A small, private ceremony was held on Monday, July 8th, in Duke University “We are honored to have had the chance to know and work
gardens. Later this year, a celebration of his life will be held at the Duke with Dr. Pinnell over the years. It was his breakthrough
University Chapel, in conjunction with the dedication of the Pinnell Center for research that propelled the use of topical antioxidants within
Investigative Dermatology. In lieu of flowers, contributions in Dr. Pinnell's the skincare industry. Today, topical antioxidants are widely
honor may be made to Duke University (PO Box 90581, Durham, NC 27701). recognised as an essential component for maintaining and
Contributions may be designated for the Pinnell Center for Investigative protecting healthy skin. Most US dermatologists now
Dermatology, or for Duke Athletics, the Sarah P Duke Memorial Gardens, recommend that patients incorporate an antioxidant into their
and/or Nasher Museum of Art. daily skincare routine. Everything he has taught us, as well as
International Aesthetic Show Calendar
(Continued)
Oct20-21 Premier BirminghamBirmingham/Jefferson Convention Center Birmingham, AL USAT: +1 407.265.3131F: +1 407.265.3134
Royal Pines ResortT: 07 55930360F: 07 55930367E: [email protected]
Oct 27-28 International Congress of Esthetics & SpaPennsylvania Convention CenterPhiladelphia, Pennsylvania, USAT: + 1 305 443-2322 F: + 1 305 443-1664E: [email protected]
Oct31-Nov1 Anti-Aging Conference H Hotel 1 Sheikh Zayed Road Dubai, UAE T: +1 561 9970112 F: +1 561 9970287
Nov7-11 CIDESCO World Congress Wuhan International Conference & Exhibition Center Wuhan, China T: + 41 44 448 22 00F: + 41 44 448 22 01 E: [email protected]
Nov13-15 Cosmoprof ASIAConvention & Exhibition CentreHong KongT: +852-2827 6211 F: +852-3749 7345 E: [email protected]
Dec12-15 20th Annual World Congress on Anti-Aging Medicine and Biomedical TechnologiesVenetian Resort Hotel CasinoLas Vegas, NevadaT: + 1-561-997-0112
Oct 27 APAN Australian Aesthetics Conference – Gold Coast
sellingskills
successful sales outcome and experience? Here are some The most successful salespeople I have met have the following
recommendations for you to consider:attributes operating in their lives, they make people feel comfortable
and as such the sales experience is an enjoyable moment and not
something looked back upon with negative emotions.
These individuals have established certain attributes in their lives Sales! The word sends different thoughts and emotions to each person.
which make the sale process an extension of themselves and not We need to be honest and ask ourselves, what emotions do we
something added to their job description. Sales isn't something they experience when we think about our service or products?
do, it is who they are! In other words, they believe that what they do
brings assistance to the individuals they interact with, they have faith These emotions will tell us what we really believe at a heart level! Is it
in their service or product, and they believe that they can improve the joy or peace? If it is, it means that you are comfortable and have faith
client's quality of life. So what are good attributes that can support a in your services or product and therefore you can expand naturally by
incorporating the sale process
into your normal mode of
operation.
However, if the emotion you are
feeling when thinking of sales is
one of dread or fear then this is
the first issue we have to deal
with. The reason our heart has
these emotions attached to the
thought process of sales could
be from past experiences of
rejection or lack of success, or
due to a lack of adequate
information about your service
or product.
We must speak differently
about our sales routine. In
other words, we must start to
speak that what we have is
of benefit to our clients!
This might mean we have to
renew the way we think
about them to gain further
in-depth knowledge about
their benefits. You can also
expand on this conviction by
talking to people who have
experienced your service or
products and let them tell
you what benefits they have
gained, then immerse
yourself in those positive
thoughts and allow them to
alter the way you relate to
what it is you wish to
promote and sell.
We must take away the
financial pressure of a sale.
What this means is that we
KEYS TO DEVELOPING SUCCESSFUL ATTRIBUTES IN
SALES
SO HOW DO WE FIX
THIS?
The best-kept Secret to improving your
By Rodney Jones
SALES FIGURES AND GROWING YOUR BUSINESS
APJ 112
APJ 113
cannot be desperate, whether the sale is made or not is not and not our bottom line. The bottom line will come with happy clients.
important. The key focus should be on helping our client and not
the money. The money will flow when our clients' needs are being In today's commodity-driven world consumers are seeking those who
met. respect them for who they are and are looking to solve their problems,
enrich their life and make it better, whether this is through a product or Do not take a rejection as a personal issue, they are not rejecting a service. you, but through some reason they are not accepting your service
or product. It is a great life skill to be able to ask questions at this The era of achieving sales through slick sales talk no longer works as point in time to find out the reason for the rejection.the modern consumer can see straight through such approaches. The
non-verbal and verbal attitude and approach that reflects genuine care I have found that the most important tool in creating a great sales for the individual as the underlying reason why you are promoting a attitude is to see people differently. Most salespeople I meet see service or a product to them will ultimately be the key to a successful people as an obstacle to defeat in order to gain a sale. This is far from transaction. It will also lead to repeat business for your salon and you the truth. People are your sale's objective. When you start to see will benefit from the best advertising you can ever get – word of them as the sale then you will not only approach them in a different mouth!way, but begin to enjoy the process of sales, because as every person is
not the same so also be your sales approach.In summary, consider winning people as your sales objective, focus on
them and their needs as the priority and not the financial gain. When The key to this is seeing every person as your next best friend, be truly people are happy the finances will flow naturally.interested in them and what they have to say. As you develop this skill
you will forget about trying to parrot off features and start to know the
person and understand their needs! When people believe that you are
interested in them their barriers will start to fall and they will tell you
exactly what they want or need. I guarantee you will hardly even talk
about the product or service or the features associated with it, instead
the client will come into a position of trust with you and will naturally
have confidence and faith in what you recommend because of the
rapport you have built.
It is at this point that we continue to put first how we can solve our
client's concerns, pain or needs, making this the centre of our focus
Rodney Jones of QCL has extensive experience in the banking and finance
sector as well as a presenter in investment property
seminars. He is a fully licensed real estate agent and
a successful business owner who understands the
value of good sales strategies for business growth.
Rodney has extensive experience in staff
development and training, specialising in customer
service and sales success. He has formulated
successful training methods and delivered this
training to a staff workforce of over 40 to achieve
targets and build client loyalty.
located in Australia and importantly, results
are available to practitioners within a week.
“MyGene's association with BioCeuticals
reaffirms our commitment to delivering
solutions to practitioners that provide an in-
depth understanding of the vital role that ® genetic tests and use the results to accurately genetics plays in preventive healthcare BIOCEUTICALS
tailor a personalised health prescription, strategies.”which combines diet, exercise and, if ANNOUNCES GENETIC www.bioceuticals.com.au Ph: 02 9080 clinically indicated, the relevant nutritional 0900TESTING ALLIANCE FOR supplements.”
ADVANCED PERSONALISED MyGene Managing Director Nick Argyrou LASER LIPOLYSIS BOOSTS HEALTHCARE said MyGene works in partnership with
® healthcare professionals to deliver purposeful BioCeuticals and MyGene have announced COLLAGEN PRODUCTION and clinically relevant Nutrigenetic tests that an exclusive agreement that will give Laser lipolysis is effective for stimulating
help highlight patient-specific risks and the integrative healthcare practitioners a clearer collagen production and skin tightening with associated dietary changes required in order picture of how to treat their patients' potential less recovery time than surgery, according to to help decrease that risk.health risks using the latest evidence-based findings presented at the Society of
genetic testing. Interventional Radiology’s annual meeting.“Advances in genetic testing mean that it is
now faster and more affordable than ever The alliance between BioCeuticals, Abbas Chamsuddin, M.D., lead author of the before, providing practitioners with the tools Australia's leading provider of practitioner- study, reviewed outcomes of 2,183 patients to follow a truly preventive model of only nutritional and therapeutic supplements, ages 17 to 73 who underwent laser-assisted healthcare through a clear understanding of and MyGene, the Australian-owned world- lipolysis and liposuction between February potential causes of health issues. class laboratory for genetic testing, provide a 2009 and July 2012. The treatments were
synergy of services for healthcare performed on the patients' necks, love “MyGene tests are based on strong scientific p r a c t i t i o n e r s . N u t r i g e n o m i c s a n d handles, arms, abdomen, breasts, thighs and research using rigorous inclusion criteria to Nutrigenetics are the fastest-moving areas of calves, according to a news release. identify a patient's risk for a range of science and help healthcare professionals Researchers measured all patients' weight, conditions, which can then potentially be build the evidence base for a more targeted diameter of area treated and skin tightness reversed or even avoided with the right and personalised healthcare approach, which prior to treatment and at all follow-up intervention,” Mr Argyrou said. “Our state-leads to better health outcomes for patients. appointments.of-the-art laboratory and life science team is
BioCeuticals Managing Director Kerry Follow-up was daily for one week, then Cunningham said the alliance with MyGene at one, three and six months. All highlights the company's commitment to t r e a t m e n t a r e a s d e m o n s t r a t e d advancing a truly integrated health offering improvement in skin tightening and for practitioners, by providing diagnostic reduction of fat bulk.tools to better understand the underlying
cause of patients' health issues. “The laser uses targeted energy to ‘zero
in’ on the fat, without affecting the other “Understanding the mechanisms of health tissue, enabling a faster recovery,” issues using genetic testing further advances according to the news release.the knowledge and diagnostic capability of
our practitioners, and is core to BioCeuticals' “Combining traditional liposuction with strategy,” Ms Cunningham said. laser lipolysis has now been shown to
produce well-sculpted bodies with tight “Our association with MyGene offers skin,” said Dr. Chamsuddin. “We are accurate, affordable Nutrigenetic testing that able to give people things such as a uncovers a patient's risk for conditions that tighter abdomen without the need for can be countered with appropriate advice surgery.”from their healthcare practitioner. Clearly Ref:
this will yield significant benefits for patients. http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.co
m/dermatology-times/news/laser-lipolysis-
boosts-collagen-“Health practitioners can order MyGene production#sthash.bpKhMwIV.dpuf
SCIENTIFIC NEWS
APJ 114
o t h e r t o p i c s r e l e v a n t t o The human genome project finished three
practitioners whose aim is to help years early because researchers found far
improve their patients' health as fewer genetic sequences than anticipated,
well as stave off the onset of “And the information in the genetic code
degenerative diseases.” didn't tell everything about the individual.”
This is where epigenetics, the study of
While Australians enjoy one of heritable changes in genome function that
the highest life expectancies in the occur without a change in DNA sequence
world, not all Australians are applies.
necessarily the healthiest people
in the world. Compared to OECD GENETICS AND EPIGENETICScountries, Australia has one of the “Epigenetic changes allow the body to turn on highest rates of obesity, with 1 in 4 and turn off certain parts of the DNA code that Australian adults and 1 in 12 may be necessary at one point in time, but not children categorised as obese. necessarily at another. For example, a child in WORLD EXPERTS CALL FOR
utero makes fetal hemoglobin,” which is Chronic diseases take up more than 70 per necessary until the child is born. Turning off PREVENTION IN cent of Australia's total healthcare the genes that result in fetal hemoglobin
HEALTHCARE expenditure. The need to evolve to a production occurs partly through epigenetics, preventative healthcare model integrating Prevention was the pivotal topic discussed by Dr. Draelos says.evidence-based complementary medicine world leaders in Integrative Medicine and with traditional medicine is absolutely key.Healthcare at the BioCeuticals® Research One way that the body alters the genetic code
Symposium 2013 (May 10 & 11, 2013). involves adding methyl groups, which can The BioCeuticals Research Symposium come from folic acid, to DNA, she says. highlighted the potential for healthcare As over-burdened health systems struggle to “Prenatal vitamins are very high in folic acid practitioners to safely and effectively meet the demands of the baby boomer because pregnant women who don't get integrate complementary therapies into their generation as well as a population struggling enough folic acid could have a child born with patient protocols to help maintain optimal with the knock-on effects of obesity and other a neural tube defect.” Vitamin B12 also can health.lifestyle diseases, speakers called for the fuel methylation, she says.
evolution of the healthcare model with Renowned for manufacturing and delivering immediate effect. The theme of the inaugural Regarding dermatology, research has shown a premium quality integrative medicines to BioCeuticals® Research Symposium link between folic acid intake and hair colour. healthcare practitioners, BioCeuticals aims to 'Research, Innovation, Reality” showcased Specifically, brown-headed male and female consistently raise the standards of natural-this exciting area of healthcare, with clinical agouti mice produced strawberry blonde based therapies.updates on the latest advances in nutritional offspring when the mother was fed a folic-F o r m o r e i n f o r m a t i o n g o t o m e d i c i n e a n d e v i d e n c e - b a s e d acid-deficient diet (Cooney AC, Wolff GL: www.bioceuticals.com.aucomplementary therapies presented to over Patent Application 09/330771).
230 practitioners from around Australia.
“We've always learnt in dermatology that the MICRONUTRIENTS MAY The opening speech by Marcus Blackmore, dark genes are dominant. If you have a
PLAY ROLE IN SKINCARE Chairman of the Blackmores Group of brunette father and mother, the child will companies including BioCeuticals , probably be a brunette, if you follow AND DERMATOLOGIC highlighted the role that consumers are Mendelian genetics. Epigenetics totally playing in demanding a change in healthcare DISEASES changes that.”from a 'sickness' model to a 'wellness' model, Some of the hottest cosmeceutical and In the folic-acid-deficient agouti mouse one that aims to prevent the onset of health nutraceutical products incorporate trace scenario, “Not only does the baby have issues using evidence-based complementary minerals and other therapies as a key pillar, rather than treating micronutrients that play the symptoms of sickness with drugs. The a vital role in skin health growth in the use of supplements is testament and overall health, to that. according to an expert.
Facilitator, Dr Mark Donohoe, Integrative GP Diet and other factors and renowned expert in chronic fatigue that accumulate over a syndrome and toxicology, said, “The lifetime sometimes can BioCeuticals Research Symposium override genetic coding, highlighted the best in Preventative says Zoe Draelos, M.D., Healthcare that integrates evidence-based a dermatologist in complementary therapies ensuring optimum private practice in High health, for as long as possible, with little- P o i n t , N . C . , a n d known side-effects. consulting professor,
d e p a r t m e n t o f “The international speakers did not dermatology, Duke disappoint,” he said. “We heard from world University School of leaders in herbal medicine, vitamin D and Medicine.integrative cancer therapies among many
APJ 115
Nathan Cheong, Prof Michael Holick, Kerry Cunningham
APJ 116
strawberry blonde hair, but that genetic line is developments in the field of vascular lasers. revealed clearance of large vessels >20µm,
changed from that point forward,” Dr. but not smaller vessels typically present in
Draelos says. “The offspring of that mouse Roy Geronemus, M.D., and colleagues PWS resistant to PDL.
will also have a gene for strawberry blonde reported their experience with a novel 532 nm
hair, even though its grandparents had no such potassium titanyl phosphate (KTP) laser The authors noted that the parameters have
gene.” (Excel V, Cutera) for port wine stains (PWS) yet to be optimised, however, this
(Reddy KK, Brauer JA, J Drugs Dermatol. combination treatment was safe, well
2013;12(1):66-71). Five subjects were tolerated, and could represent a breakthrough ACCELERATED AGEINGenrolled with PWS of the body that had in the laser treatment of PWS.Moreover, Dr. Draelos says, the strawberry previously been treated with multiple pulsed blonde mouse born to the folic-acid-deficient dye laser (PDL) sessions with what they Vascular lasers have multiple applications mother also will suffer from obesity, type 2 termed mild or unsatisfactory response. beyond treating cutaneous vascular lesions, diabetes and an increased cancer risk.
including scars, striae and verrucae, among “Therefore, epigenetic changes impact not The investigators treated the PWS at four others. Two recent studies have bolstered the only melanin production and appearance, but different purpuric KTP laser settings with the evidence of the 595 nm PDL for the treatment also the ageing of that mouse, because
2 of nail psoriasis. Pulsed dye laser is thought to following parameter ranges: 4.8-9 J/cm , 6-10 diabetes and developing cancer at an early age improve psoriatic lesions by targeting their mm spot, 3 ms to 6 ms pulse duration, 5 are considered signs of accelerated ageing.”supporting vasculature, as well as by reducing degrees Celsius contact cooling, and left an the number of helper and cytotoxic T cells and adjacent control site untreated. After the In light of the worldwide rise in obesity and normalising epidermal turnover (Hern S, single treatment all sites exhibited at least 1 type 2 diabetes, she says, researchers are Stanton AWB, Mellor RH, et al. Br J grade of color improvement.carefully studying such epigenetic changes.Dermatol. 2005;152(1):60-65).See more at: Immediate post-treatment histology showed Along with type 2 diabetes and cancer, Dr. http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/dervascular injury up to 4 mm depth and one-Draelos adds, epigenetic changes have been matology-times/news/device-month follow-up histology revealed identified in dermatologic diseases such as evolution#sthash.7Q5AcTdP.dpufreduction in number of vessels and the following:
vessel diameter at all levels of the psoriasis (Zhang P, Su Y, Lu Q. J Eur Acad dermis. The authors state that the Dermatol Venereol. 2012;26(4):399-403)combination of large spot sizes and melanoma (Patino WD, Susa J. Adv short pulse durations allows for Dermatol. 2008;24:59-70. Review)considerable penetration of the KTP See more at: laser, and perhaps more effective http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/dertreatment of many different cutaneous matology-times/RC/tags/cosmeceuticals/anti-aging-
vascular lesions.discoveries-micronutrients-disease-
role#sthash.MfqWhNsi.dpuf
PDL RESISTANCE Approximately 20 per cent of
PWS are estimated to be resistant
to PDL (Renfro L, Geronemus
R G . A r c h D e r m a t o l .
1993;129(2):182-188). A group
from Germany recently reported
a unique approach to PWS laser
treatment (Klein A, Szeimies R-
M, Bäumler W, et al. Br J
Dermatol. 2012;167(2):333-
342). In a trial of 28 patients with sPWS, researchers ut i l i ed
intravenous indocyanine green
( I C G ) , a n e x o g e n o u s
chromophore with a maximum
absorption at approximately 810 UPDATES IN LASER nm, followed by an 805 nm diode laser
2VASCULAR LASER (20-50 J cm/ , 10-25 ms pulse), which affords THERAPY deeper penetration depth than PDL. Controls Several experts shared their techniques for RESEARCH REVEALS 2included PDL (6 J/cm , 0.45 ms pulse) and working with lasers to treat photoageing, diode without ICG.ADVANCED TREATMENT wrinkles, laser dermabrasion and other
therapeutic approaches during the 2013 Vegas OPTIONS Blinded investigators favoured the cosmetic C o s m e t i c S u rg e r y a n d A e s t h e t i c Vascular lasers and light sources have appearance and clearance of the diode plus Dermatology meeting in Las Vegas.evolved significantly since the theory of ICG group, although the results did not selective photothermolysis was published in achieve significance. Despite the greater level David J. Goldberg, M.D., J.D., director of the 1983 (Anderson RR, Parrish JA. Science. of discomfort of the combination treatment, a Skin Laser & Surgery Specialists of New 1983;220(4596):524-527). This month's significantly higher percentage of patients York and New Jersey, offered results of an column will review some interesting recent preferred diode plus ICG to PDL. Histology interesting split-face comparison between
APJ 117
fractional Er:YAG and fractional CO lasers. there's some crusting around the lips, by day notes where you can add some nice touches to 2
He pointed to the results of several studies five the patient's skin is nearly epitheliased, enhance the experience," she says. "Your
that ultimately supported his conclusion that and by day nine the skin is fully epitheliased, office should be a place that people look
all of the fractional ablative lasers are but may have some redness. By day 14, that forward to going to.”
effective. redness has faded.
Adding a company logo to a giveaway can be
Results indicated statistical improvement in Dr. Fezza notes about a 90 per cent wrinkle help build brand-awareness, but not if the
photoageing in all patients. No device was reduction with this technique and says the item is a label on something disposable like a
statistically significantly superior to another, results he gets have augmented his practice. water bottle, she says. "Consider the For more updates on laser techniques and other he found. And, no statistically significant longevity of the piece you're buying to put news presented at the conference, visit differences were found in the pain scores your logo on," Ms. Drumm says. Ms. Drumm http://www.dermatologytimes.com/VCS2013among the devices. And histologically, there suggested putting a company name and logo Read live updates and tips from conference were also no differences. on a tube of lip balm because it will last for a presenters by following our Twitter page while, and it's relatively inexpensive.@DermTimesNow.
“The bottom line is it's your experience and
comfort with using the system,” Dr. Goldberg If the décor of your practice is top-
says. “So when people come to your office notch and organised, the next thing
and try to sell you these systems, the reality is patients notice after walking in the
that the good systems all work and it's simply door is your staff . Building
a matter of getting comfortable and that leads re la t ionsh ips and t rus t wi th
to good results.” physicians, nurses and other staff
members is important. This can easily
John Fezza, M.D., who practises in Sarasota, be achieved by putting together a
Fla., discussed his technique for laserbrasion, welcome folder that contains short
which he described as the combination of the biographies of doctors as well as a
heavy ablative CO laser augmented with welcome letter and possibly the 2
doctor's CV, Ms. Drumm says.dermasanding. He finds that in his practice,
this technique is a safe and effective way to "What we want to remember is people treat heavy perioral wrinkles and he shared buy from people before brands," Ms. case studies that demonstrated the quality of Drumm says. In addition to physician results he feels are typical in his practice.profiles, having patient profiles and
success stories will speak louder than “Treatment of wrinkles with laser resurfacing simply showing before and after alone I think for moderate wrinkles does a photos. Practices can a packet of pretty good job, it reduces the lines and it patients that not only includes before works well,” Dr. Fezza says. He finds about a and after photos, but also a relaxed, 70 per cent wrinkle reduction around the fun photo of the patient and a few perioral area in patients with moderate sentences the patient wants to share wrinkles when treated with laser alone. BRANDING TIPS FOR about their life before and after the procedure.
However, Dr. Fezza notes that many of the BUILDING YOUR "Commodities compete on prices, brands patients he treats have a disproportional
DERMATOLOGY OR compete on intangible attributes," Ms. amount of heavy wrinkles around the Drumm says. When working on building your perioroal area, and these are challenging to COSMETIC SURGERY practice's brand, you should also think about treat because they're deeper set and more marketing campaigns and targeting specific resilient to other skin-tightening modalities, PRACTICEaudiences with varying media, says Grant he said. With medspas and new dermatology and Stevens, M.D., F.A.C.S.cosmetic surgery practices popping up all
over the place, standing out in the crowd can He shared his technique for laserbrasion, Dr. Stevens, owner of a plastic surgery prove difficult.which includes:practice in Marina Del Rey, Calif., has used
20 ccs of tumescent around the lips to emails, newsletters, his website, radio spots Building a brand is essential to maintaining
plump them out to deliver anesthetic. This and billboards to attract attention and build a patients and drawing in news ones, according
stretches the wrinkles, effaces the deep brand around the phrase "Freeze the Fat." The to presenters during a practice management
lines and, he feels, allows better efforts have led to a huge growth in the session at the 2013 Vegas Cosmetic Surgery
penetration of either the laser or the number of patients who come to his practice and Aesthetic Dermatology meeting recently.
sander.because they are interested in the Tracy Drumm, vice-president of aesthetic
Two to three passes of CO laser, after 2 CoolSculpting (Zeltiq) results from the practice marketing firm IF Marketing, has which he cleans the area and re-evaluates. "Freeze the Fat" campaign.boiled brand marketing down into three key If the patient is still in need of wrinkle points: experience, relationships and reduction, he proceeds to dermalsanding. See more at: outcome-based marketing.He uses Frigiderm on the upper lip to http://dermatologytimes.modernmedicine.com/der
matology-times/news/branding-tips-building-your-tighten and freeze and then proceeds. When patients enter your practice, they dermatology-or-cosmetic-surgery-
should have the most positive experience practice#sthash.PbDSPE4U.dpufDr. Fezza displayed images typical of the possible, Ms. Drumm says. "Have someone in
results he's seen demonstrating that at day one your staff walk around your office and make
legalmatters
APJ 118
Misunderstanding and conflicts arise between employees and
employers usually due to a lack of clarity about the terms of
employment, conditions and expectations. For this reason work
agreements are so important in any workplace setting and in particular
in salons and clinics where hours of employment may be flexible,
opening up the possibility of misunderstandings through a
misinterpretation of the agreement.
In accordance with the Fair Work Act 2009, Individual Flexible
Arrangements are recommended, but are set rules on how these need to
be set up. Pointon Partner Lawyers are experts in this field and the
official lawyers of APAN. In this article Sophie Ware explains what is
needed to implement an Individual Flexible Arrangement, the pitfalls
and areas you need to consider.
HOW DO YOU CREATE AN INDIVIDUAL FLEXIBILITY
ARRANGEMENT?
fairness and flexibility. Pursuant to this objective, the Act attempts to
improve flexibility by the implementation of Individual Flexibility
Arrangements ('IFAs'), allowing for necessary variations to Modern
Awards and Enterprise Agreements to facilitate the requirements of
employers and individual employees.
More recently there has been a push to increase the scope of IFAs and
their discretion to vary more than is currently allowed, for example,
implementing preferred hours and minimum engagement periods
within IFAs. To date much of this has been unsuccessful. However,
with the Full Bench decision, which considered some 15 applications
to vary the standard award flexibility provisions in 10 Modern
Awards, some relief for employers and employees has been realised,
with an increased notice period of 13 weeks required to terminate an
IFA. This development provides much needed stability for all
involved. Engaging in flexible work practices can prove to be beneficial for both
employees and employers. Section 3 of the Fair Work Act 2009 (Cth)
('the Act') lists its objective as being to ‘provide a balanced
framework for cooperative and productive workplace relations that
promotes national economic prosperity and social inclusion for all Most Modern Awards contain a standard flexibility provision, Australians’. A recent Full Bench of the Fair Work Commission allowing an employer and an individual employee to agree on an ('FWC') decision acknowledged that obtaining such balance required arrangement varying the effect of specified parts of the award. balancing the interests of business, unions, work, family through Section 144(4) of the Act provides that the standard flexibility term
INDIVIDUAL FLEXIBILITY ARRANGEMENTSWhat they can offer your business?
By Sophie Ware – LawyerPointon Partners
Lawyers & Trademark Attorneys
APJ 119
must specify which clauses of the Modern Award may be varied by
an IFA. Currently the only matters, which may be addressed and
varied by use of an IFA are:
1. When work is performed (for example, hours, rostering, breaks
and notice periods);
2. Overtime rates
3. Penalty rates
4. Allowances, and
5. Leave loading.
1. The employer must ensure that the employee has understood
and agrees to the IFA
2. The employer must have concern for the cultural differences
impacting the employees understanding of the IFA
3. An employee entering into an IFA must be an existing
employee of the employers’ (i.e. it cannot be offered to a
prospective employee)
4. Neither an individual employee nor the employer may be
coerced or forced to enter into an IFA; and
5. An employee cannot be treated adversely for refusing to enter
into an IFA.
For an IFA to be effective it must be in writing and signed by both
the employer and the employee. In the event the employee is under
the age of 18, it must also be signed be the employee's
parent/guardian. Further, both the employee and the employer
must receive a copy of the executed IFA.
In all circumstances it is the employer's responsibility to ensure
that the proposed IFA satisfies the BOOT test and meets all
requirements under the Act.
In order to be effective, entering into an IFA must result in the 1. Individual employers – $10,200; andemployee being better off overall than had the employee been if an 2. Body Corporate employers – $51,000IFA was not entered into. In order to establish that the BOOT test has
been passed employers will normally need to show what the employee
would have received financially had they not been under an IFA, and Under standard circumstances an IFA may be terminated unilaterally
what they would receive when engaged pursuant to an IFA. by either the employer or the employee with written notice. Following
the recent Full Bench decision an IFA may only be terminated with 13 Further, the Full Bench decision provided that the BOOT test is
weeks' notice. Prior to the Full Bench decision IFAs could be assessed at the time the IFA is entered into, and not throughout the
terminated upon four weeks' notice. term of employment.
There are clear benefits for both employers and employees when
entering into IFAs. They may assist not only by providing IFAs do not need to be registered or approved by the FWC, however, administrative ease to employers and allowing them to retain in the event an IFA is incorrectly drafted and implemented there are employees they otherwise may have lost, but allow employees penalties for the employer. flexibility while being assured that they are receiving the minimum
entitlements, and in fact are better off overall than had they not entered In the event an IFA is entered into incorrectly the terms of the IFA will into an IFA. While they appear simple to prepare, in reality there are continue to apply to the employment relationship as if the IFA was some pitfalls to their implementation and execution. Employers must entered into correctly. This is to ensure that while it is essentially tread carefully in this respect and ensure that all IFAs satisfy the invalid, the employee still enjoys the benefits and advantages BOOT test, follows legislative requirements and are entered into provided to them as a result of the IFA, had it been entered into correctly. There are significant penalties for employers should this not correctly. However, in the event the employee desires to terminate the be followed.IFA they may do so on the grounds that they are being disadvantaged.
Should this occur, the employee may take action against the respective Pointon Partners has extensive experience in advising on the employer for damages and penalties to the applicable circumstances.
above issues, including the preparation of IFAs.
If you have any queries or require any assistance in this area In the event an employer fails to ensure that an IFA is made correctly, please contact Michael Bishop or Sophie Ware.and entered into following correct procedure, monetary penalties will
apply as follows:
When entering into an IFA the following must be taken into
consideration at all times:
THE BOOT TEST
TERMINATION OF AN IFA
PENALTIES
If you have any queries in relation to this article or any other legal
issues affecting your business please feel free to contact Michael
Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners.
Pointon Partners is a client-focused commercial law firm based in
Melbourne, but which services clients nationally. Pointon Partners
is able to assist with:
advice on obligations under the Fair Work Act & the Hair and
Beauty Industry Award 2010;
preparation of employment contracts;
advice on termination of staff & defending of unfair dismissal
claims;
registration of trademarks;
trademark disputes;
preparation or review of commercial leases;
negotiation & preparation of commercial contracts;
franchising;
wills and estate planning; and
buying or selling a business.
APAN members receive an initial free consultation in relation
to any legal queries or issues they may have.
POINTON PARTNERS LAWYERS
Michael Bishop or Amelita Hensman of Pointon Partners
can be contacted on (03) 9614 7707 or by email
APJ 120
The demand for safe, effective products that will help depigment, Black-brown in colourbrighten and even-out skin tone for clients that are suffering from Yellow-red in colourhyperpigmentation from UV exposure, hormonally stimulated
pigment and Post Inflammatory Pigmentation (PIH) is definitely on No matter what nationality, we all have both types of pigment in our the rise. skin. The difference in the 'end result' of our skin colour is due to the
amount and type of these two chemicals found in every skin, based on Understanding how pigmentations is formed is critical in determining genetic makeup.how to deal with it and what to look for in your ingredient listing and
formulations.
There are several steps that need to occur in order for melanin pigment Bioelements has just lunched a new-generation formulation designed to be produced. This 'sequential pathway' is the same for all humans. to fight pigmentation where it is caused and help you achieve great The differences in the resulting skin colour are due to the quantity and results. But let's first start by having a look at the science behind how types of pigment chemicals that exist in the individual.pigmentation is formed:
Melanin is a pigmented biopolymer that gives our skin, hair and eyes The process of melanin formation in the epidermis in a normally their natural colour, and serves to protect the skin from UV exposure functioning skin that is not under cutaneous stress by UV, hormonal (it's a natural photo-protectant pigment). Think of it as your body's imbalances or injury needs to be understood first, before we can sunscreen that acts as a first responded when the immune system gets discuss the reasons why hyperpigmentation occurs and how to a signal that there is inflammation, or the skin has suffered any type of effectively target and treat problem of hyperpigmentation. Here is a injury. brief description of the process:
Melanin is produced by the melanocyte, a specialised cell found in the The process of melanin production begins within the melanocyte. stratum germanitivum (basal layer) of the Epidermis. Melanocytes This is an amino acid that is present in every melanocyte. This is the account for between 5% and 10% of the cellular content of the basal very beginning of the entire chain reaction that has to take place in cell layer of the epidermis and produce melanin to protect the skin order for melanin to be delivered to the keratinocyte.from UV radiation. Approximately 1 out of every 9 cells in this layer is
a melanocyte.
The next important link in the chain is KEY to the production of
melanin; the activation of an enzyme called Tyrosinase. This enzyme
is already present in the cell within membrane-bound organelles The colour of our skin and hair is determined mainly by the amount, termed 'melanosomes', and are responsible for mediating the first and distribution and type of melanin. This varies from person to person, rate limiting step of melanogensis. Through a series of oxidative but the end colour is largely determined by our genetic heritage. Every reactions, the enzyme becomes active and must be present in order individual has two types of melanin in their skin:melanin to form.
1. Uemelanin –
2. Phaomelanin –
HOW DOES MELANIN FORM?
WHAT IS MELANIN? THE MELANOGENIC PATHWAY
WHERE IS MELANIN PRODUCED? STEP 1: The Melanocyte and L-Tyrosine
STEP 2: The Enzyme Tyrosinase is activated
WHAT DETERMINES OUR NATURAL SKIN COLOUR?
Understanding PIGMENATION and how to successfully treat it
APJ 121
STEP 3: Copper and other metallic ions accelerate tyrosinase
function
STEP 4: Tyrosinase is now converted to L-Dopa and then to
pigments
Bioelements LightPlex GigaWatt Dark Spot Corrector
and MegaWatt Skin Brightener utilise scientifically
STEP 5: Melanin is now formed inside the Melanosome sacs proven systems
STEP 6: Dendrites transfer the melanin to the keratinocytes
STEP 7: Skin colour change is complete
KEY INGREDIENTSTHE THREE MAIN CAUSES OF HYPERPIGMENTATIONGigaWhite: A novel skin-brightener developed from Alpine
plants.
Gigawhite™ Blend:
1. UV Light Exposure
2. Hormonal Changes®3. Injury Chromabright :
WHAT HAPPENS TO THE MELANOGENSIS PROCESS AS
A RESULT OF THE ABOVE?
Alpha Arbutin:
1. LightPlex GigaWatt Dark Spot Corrector
2. LightPlex MegaWatt Skin Brightener
3. Bioelements LightPlex GigaWatt Facial
THE OBJECTIVE
damage that already exists.
Bioelements have developed a new formulation that targets tyrosine Natural metallic ion chemicals present and produced by the skin, are and slows down its ability to convert to tyrosinase. Since tyrosinase is an important component to melanogenesis. They serve to partner with a major key to melanin formation, inhibiting tyrosine is a safe and tyrosinase to speed up the entire synthesis of melanin. effective way to get the results we are looking for. Additionally, we
need to soothe the skin, in order to prevent its tendency to signal the
melanocyte to produce more pigment due to the injury response. If the
skin is calm, no signal to surge melanin from the skin's immune The reactionary process continues as tyrosinase is now ready to system will occur.convert again, this time to an amino acid called L-Dopa
(DOPAquinone). Once this conversion happens, then pigments begin
to form.
Now everything is ready. The next step in the 'chain' involves where Both formulas contain a unique and powerful blend of complex the finished 'melanin' pigment begins. Melanin is ready to form inside scientific lab-strength and natural ingredients to safely and effectively the melanosome sacs, which will become the delivery system of depigment the skin. Each key ingredient shares a common function to melanin pigment to keratinocyte cells. limit the melanogenisis surge, surface inflammation (no matter the
cause UV, hormonal stimuli or injury).
Each of these key ingredients focuses on slowing down the chain Now the melanocytes stretch out to deliver melanin to the destination reaction that has to occur in order for the melanocyte to produce site the keratinocytes. To keep this in scale, on average, every nine pigment (melanin). Although pigment production is necessary for cells in the basal layer is a melanocyte, and one melanocyte reaches normal skin function, each ingredient focuses on the damaged approximately 36 keratinocytes to transfer colour. melanocyte that is over-producing pigment in response to injury on
the surface of the skin. The part of the Melanogenesis Pathway
Process that we want to inhibit is tyrosinase function. This achieves The last step of melanogenesis occurs when the tip of the dendrite arm
skin hypopigmentation to reduce the abnormal accumulation of releases its cargo (melanin) to the surrounding cells. At this point, our
melanin and bring it back to a normal level to unify skin colour.skin colour changes.
Now that we know how melanin is formed under normal
circumstances, let's discuss what happens to the skin to cause our
natural skin tone to deviate through acceleration of pigment Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Leaf Extract, production. The three main causes are: Primula Veris Extract, Alchemilla Vulgaris Extract, Veronica
Officinalis Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Achillea
Millefolium Extract
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate
This patented molecule has significant brightening effects and shows
no cytotoxic effects on melanocytes, keratinocytes or fibroblasts; no
mutoinduces significant brightening, while fighting the signs of photo-ageing. Tests have shown that it can inhibit tyrosinase activity
The skin acts as an immune network and through its pigments, by 43%.provides a unique defense system against cutaneous stress (i.e. UV promotes skin brightening and evens out tone. radiation). Thus, melanocytes transfer melanosomes through their
dendrites to the keratinocytes, where they form the melanin caps that All key ingredients in both LightPlex GigaWatt and LightPlex
reduce UV-induced DNA damage in human epidermis. Anytime the MegaWatt formulas work together from different angles to target
skin's immune system senses a cutaneous inflammation response, it tyrosinase function. These tyrosinase inhibitors form a cohesive 'triple
springs into action to protect itself, by revving up the melanogensis threat to hyperpigmentation in all of its forms.
process. The more exposure to this 'stress', the more stimuli the skin
has to produce even more pigment it's a viscous cycle.
This surge of melanin is synthesised within melanosomes and then is
transported via the dendrites to adjacent keratinocytes, and
accumulate within keratinocytes and melanocytes in the top portion of work together to slow melanin production, decrease colour density,
the cell called a supranuclear "cap". The cap is thought to shield DNA brighten the complexion and help prevent the skin damaging effects of
from UV rays. So what can we do to break this cycle? UV radiation better than hydroquinone - with zero side effects.
To slow down melanogensis we need to cause a disruption in the chain
of steps mentioned above. By slowing down the melanogensis process
and causing a disruption on the chain reaction, this allows the
melanogenesis process to return to normal and fade the signs of past
Contact BIOELEMENTS and start winning the war
against pigmentation Ph: 1300 262 275
starperformer
APJ 122
SKINSTITUT Reverses, prevents and repairs the appearance of skin damage
Retinol – Chirally Correct
SKINSTITUT – Experts in Skin
Ph: 02 9460 7559 | skinstitut.com
Retinol is the most active and advanced product in the Skinstitut range.
For most types, especially aged skin, breakout-prone and pigmented skin conditions.
SYN-AKE, Peptides, Encapsulated Retinol, Olive extract
Skinstitut Vitamin C may be added to increase efficacy.
This is a corrective serum which uses encapsulation technology and penetration enhancers to effectively deliver the active ingredients deep within the skin to correct skin concerns such as sun damage, fine lines, uneven texture and acne.
Contins SYN-AKE and peptides
Encapsulated advanced delivery system
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that promotes cell renewal in the skin by increasing collagen and elastin production. Skin appears smoother with a clearer, lifted and more even skin tone.
Apply one pump every other evening, building up to every evening on clear, dry skin. Gently stroke outwards in a circular motion, slowly spreading on to the entire face, throat and chest.
