the anti-style-guide issue

THE ANTI STYLE GUIDE ISSUE DECEMBER 2011 U+MAG 1

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true to yourself

2 U+MAG DECEMBER 2011 THE ANTI STYLE GUIDE ISSUE THE ANTI STYLE GUIDE ISSUE DECEMBER 2011 U+MAG 3


WORDS by ANDRÉ RODRIGUES


ARTICLE by RAFAEL CARVALHO


miuccia’s desperate

housewives

in one of his many visionary works during the 60’s, philosopher Marshall McLuhan once wrote that humor would be one of the most emphatic and powerful ways of critical thinking in the year to come. And if we consider this true (as we do), we could affirm with quite assurance that Miuccia Pra-da is not only one of fashion’s greats social critic and thinker, but also a damn good joker.

Her SS12 collection, one of the most symbolic of the season, was a big laugh in the face of the luxury and fashion elite. If we were to pick an essential characteristic about Miuccia Prada’s work, I’d probably say it is irony. The capacity to empty, subvert and re-shape the meaning

ARTICLE by LUIGI TORRE


miuccia’s desperate

housewives

of certain symbols has been pivotal in the way she approaches any given theme, message or question.

Just as a reminder, we are talking about the woman who made a whole statement about ugliness, making it not, well, pretty, but also desirable and hip. She was one of the responsible for propagating the nerd--cool esthetic of the early 2000s, has just the thing for making anything tacky, fashionable and is very well known for playing with opposites as if both sides were meant to be together

At her SS12 collection, the first message revolved around the concept for sweetness: whether it is something imposed upon women, or a natural thing or even choice? Why do men expect that from the opposite sex? And by doing that are they objectifying female counterparts just as they do with cars?

All these questions resulted in a 40’s / 50’s inspired collection, filled with pastel tone colors, feminine pleated dresses, bustier with slim high waist skirts (almost fetish gear turned sweet), some delicate floral, flower-shaped jewels necklaces and earrings and flamed car prints, with a kind of childish feel of them. And all that complete with a kind of American housewives realness. The very same common Ameri-can housewives that were expected to treat their car loving husbands with feminine tender and kindness. And by doing just that, Mrs. Prada opened room for a lot more interpretation and, well, some witty fun.

If I were to pick an essential characteristic about Miuccia Prada’s work, I’d probably say it is irony. It is with this quality that she now approaches the 50’s scenario. A period infused with Elvis rock’n’roll ener-gy and the upbeat optimism of the (then promising) American Dream. A dream that soon started to prove hard to come true, leaving that typical American Way of Life (and way of dressing) in a sort of hermetic sub-culture, trapped in realms of places like Midwest USA and Florida.

It is this suburban middle class look, once considered by (fashion) elite as tacky or tasteless that now sets the tone for Prada’s SS12 collection. And since we are talking about one of the most influential brands of present times, we can assure that it is this same su-burban Americana look that will make a lot of luxury consumers desperate to adopt this… Well, desperate housewife look.

This is not the first season Miuccia taps into the banal or the common to make it ironically desirable and luxury appro-priate. But what makes this even more interesting and relevant is the economic and social context Mrs. Prada has inser-ted it. In other words, making the 99% style trendy.


INTERVIEW by RAFAEL CARVALHO


Vestido usado como top B.LUXO Saia PURAMANIA Guarda chuva ACERVO DO STYLIST


HenriqueBlazer CAVALERACamisa COLCCIChapeu MAURICE PLAS


Blazer, colete e bermuda JOAO PIMENTACamisa TRITONSapatos TNGMeias TRIFILChapeu MAURICE PLAS

46 U+MAG DECEMBER 2011 THE ANTI STYLE GUIDE ISSUE THE ANTI STYLE GUIDE ISSUE DECEMBER 2011 U+MAG 47 Blazer COLCCI Camisa TRITON Chapeu MAURICE PLAS

THE ANTI STYLE GUIDE ISSUE DECEMBER 2011 U+MAG 47 Blazer COLCCI Camisa TRITON Chapeu MAURICE PLAS

Macacao RESERVACamisa VRChapeu MAURICE PLASSapatos TNG


MONIQUEVestido HUIS CLOSMeia calça TRIFILSapatos TNG

HENRIQUEMacacao RESERVACamisa VRChapeu MAURICE PLAS


Vestido HUIS CLOS


Supreme velvet cap


Animal mash One Piece + Converse shoes


Linear Stone Stamp Fixed Tri


Floral Landscape Rundown Pants


Love Addict Top


Mix ‘n Match Summer Brights bikini set


Inca Stripe Tri


Pepa Rose Knit Shorto q


Xale Jefferson de Assis (acervo), calça Dolce & Gabanna e broche Brechó Volta ao Mundo


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Tudo Renata Buzzo


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Chapeu B.Luxo, gravata Brechó Volta ao Mundo, tailleur Thierry M

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Jaqueta acervo, cinto B.Luxo e saia Samuel Cirnansck


Declan wears Stolen Girlfriends Club

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Tia wears Jeremy Scott for Adidas top, Ksubi Shorts and Lonely hearts bike shorts

CLYNE M

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Dress, R

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Purple Passion Shoes, Stylist’s own


Cardigan, Built by W

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Trench, Built by WendyBra, Cheap MondayScarves (as bra), VintageSkirt, Timo WeilandShoes, Billy ReidPearls, Stylist’s own


Top, Timo W

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intage Pearls, Stylist’s own


Top, Timo WeilandSkirt, VintageShoes, Billy ReidFur, VintagePearls, Stylist’s own


Shirtdress, Cheap MondayBrief, Hanky Panky

Fur, Vintage


Shirt- Tim Coppens Tank- Alternative Pants- TIM Socks- Uniqlo Shoes- Y-3


Shirt- Y-3Shorts- Richard ChaiSocks- UniqloShoes- Y-3

Jacket- Richard ChaiShorts- Tim Coppens

Briefs- Calvin KleinSocks- UniqloShoes- Y-3


Tee- Henrik Vibskov Hoodie- Y-3 Pullover- Richard Chai

Tee- Tim CoppensParka- Y-3

Shorts & Leggings- Y-3Socks- Uniqlo

Shoes- Y-3


Max wears Stolen Girlfriends Club hoodie and Ksubi top


Olivia wears Mania Mania choker, Jeremy Scott for Adidas top


Look 3Vestido Walerio Araujo


Look 3Vestido Walerio Araujo

Colar Opto Blusa Walerio Araujo Calça Balenciaga para Onassis vintage


Collant Walerio Araujo Legging Yohji Yamamoto para Onassis vintageSapatos Fernando Pires


Chapéu Eneas Neto Blusa Acervo Legging Yohji Yamamoto para Onassis vintageSapatos Fernando Pires


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Oculos B. LuxoVestido Alphorria Cult Sandálias Fernando Pires


Oculos B. LuxoVestido Alphorria Cult Sandálias Fernando Pires

Vestido B. Luxo Hot pants Ronaldo Fraga


Tank by Hussein ChalayanPants by PucciBelt by Kostas MurkudisBracelet and rings stylist’s own


Turtleneck by MarniTop by Miu MiuPants by Pucci

Shirt by Roberto CavalliTrousers by Dolce & GabbanaHat and bag stylist’s own vintageShoes by Marc Jacobs


Shirt by Roberto Cavalli Trousers by Dolce & Gabbana Hat and bag stylist’s own vintage Shoes by Marc Jacobs


Top by Miu MiuPants by A.F. VandevorstEarrings and rings stylist’s own


PHOTOGRAPHY by João Arraes, STYLING by Paula Lourenzo,

MODEL: Luana Dacherry, @ WayBeaty by Leila Turgante.

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PHOTOGRAPHY by João Arraes, STYLING by Paula Lourenzo,

MODEL: Luana Dacherry, @ WayBeaty by Leila Turgante.

Pants by Walerio Araujo


Necklace by Caio Vinicius


Hair piece by Melk Z-Da


Dress and head piece by Walerio Araujo


Daniela wears Jeremy Scott for Adidas romper, Vanishing Elephant socks, Julian Danger sweater


Masthead

DECEMEBER 2011

CREATIVE DIRECTOR & FOUNDER: Romeu Silveira / [email protected]: André Rodrigues / [email protected]

FASHION DIRECTOR: Luigi Torre / [email protected] ASSISTANT: Rafael Carvalho / [email protected]

ART DIRECTOR: Romeu SilveiraTYPEFACE: Pistilli, Didot and Times New Roman

FASHION PRODUCER: Brisa Issa

CONTRIBUTORSTete Almeida

Eduardo Sancinetti Ray Lee Nathan

Bruno IlogtiBreno VottoIgi Ayedun

Adelaide IvanovaHugo Toni

Henrique TankMarcio Banfi

Akila BerjaouiImogen Wilson

Sara OrmeJoão Arraes

Paula LourençoAlexandra Waespi

Lu Phillipe GuilmetteGeorge Krakowiak

Paula PerrierVitor PickersgillAgnes MamedeDavid Urbanke

Amanda Camenish

umagmag.com


true to yourself

TETE ALMEIDA EDUARDO SANCINETTI

RAY LEE NATHAN

BRUNO ILOGTIBRENO VOTTO

IGI AYEDUNHUGO TONI

HENRIQUE TANKMARCIO BANFI

AKILA BERJAOUIIMOGEN WILSON

SARA ORMEJOÃO ARRAES

PAULA LOURENÇOALEXANDRA WAESPI

LU PHILLIPE GUILMETTEGEORGE KRAKOWIAK

PAULA PERRIERVITOR PICKERSGILL

AGNES MAMEDEDAVID URBANKE

AMANDA CAMENISH

MAL

U B

ORT

OLI

NI @

JO

Y PH

OTO

GR

APH

ED B

Y IG

I AYE

DU

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the anti-style-guide issue

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anti style guide issue

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