middle ages fashion

8/3/2019 Middle Ages Fashion

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Middle Ages FashionLinda JanJonathan Chiao


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TrendThe clothing and fashion during theMiddle Ages was dominated andhighly influenced by the Kings andQueensOnly the wealthy could dress in

fashionable clothes. Sumptuary Laws restricted peoplein their expenditure including

money spent on clothes.


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900 1000 influenced by the classical styles of the

Greek and Roman women

so tight as to display all the elegance oftheir form

made so high as completely to coverthe neck

consisted of two tunics, and of a veil ordrapery


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1100-1200 Men

shirt, braies, and chausses

Outer tunics or doublets

Headgear

Women


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shirt, braies, and chausses Underclothes consisted of an inner tunic (French

chainse) or shirt with long, tight sleeves, anddrawers or braies, usually of linen.

Tailored cloth leggings called chausses or hose,made as separate garments for each leg, wereoften worn with the tunic; striped hose werepopular.

Hose were long and fit, and they reached abovethe knees. They were wide enough at the top toallow the drawers to be tucked into them. Theywere held up in place by being attached to thegirdle of the drawers.


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Outer tunics or doublets Over the undertunic and hose, men wore an outertunic that reached to the knees or ankles, and that

was fastened at the waist with a belt. Fitted bliauts,of wool or, increasingly, silk, had sleeves that werecut wide at the wrist and gored skirts. Men wore

bliauts open to the waist front and back or at theside seams.

Newly fashionable were short, fitted garments forthe upper body, worn under the tunic: the doublet,

made of two layers of linen, and an early form ofquilted and padded jupe or gipon. Rectangular and circular cloaks were worn over the

tunic. These fastened on the right shoulder or at thecenter front.


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Headgear Men of the upper classes often went

hatless. The chaperon in the form of hoodand attached shoulder-length cape was

worn during this period, especially by therural lower classes, and the fitted linen coiftied under the chin appeared very late in

the century. Small round or slightly conicalcaps with rolled brims were worn, and strawhats were worn for outdoor work in summer.


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WomenA cap was worn made of linen with

lappets hanging down over the shoulders

The surcoat was at first worn only byfemales, but it was soon adopted by bothgenders

a broad band, which was tied under thechin, and gave the appearance of a kindof frame for the face


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1200 - 1300 Men

Higher class [People who were richer]

Working men

Women


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Men Men wore a tunic, cote or cotte with a surcoat over a linen shirt.

One of these surcoats was the cyclas, which began as arectangular piece of cloth with a hole in it for the head. Overtime the sides were sewn together to make a long, sleeveless

tunic. When sleeves and sometimes a hood were added, thecyclas became a ganache (a cap-sleeved surcoat, usuallyshown with hood of matching color) or a gardcorps (a long,generous-sleeved traveling robe, somewhat resembling amodern academic robe). A mantle was worn as a formal wrap.

Men also wore hose, shoes, and headdress. The clothing ofroyalty was set apart by its rich fabric and luxurious furs. Hairand beard were moderate in length, and men generally woretheir hair in a "pageboy" style, curling under at necklength.Shoes were slightly pointed, and embroidered for royalty and

higher clergy.


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Working Men short cotte, or tunic, with a belt. slit up the center of the front long braies or leggings with legs of varying length, often visible as

they worked with their cotte tucked into their belt. Hose could be worn over, attached to the drawstring or belt at the

waist. Hats included a round cap with a slight brim, the beret (just like

modern French ones, complete with a little tab at the top), the coif (alittle tight white hood with strings that tied under the chin), the strawhat (in widespread use among farmworkers), and the chaperon, thenstill a hood that came round the neck and over the shoulders.

Apart from aprons for trades like smithing, and crude clothes tiedround the neck to hold seed for sowing, special clothes were notworn for working.


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Women Luxury was at its height when gold and

silver, pearls and precious stones werelavished on clothes

Gowns with tight bodices were generallyadopted

a tight jacket, reaching to a little belowthe hips, often trimmed with fur


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1300 - 1400 Mens fashion


Tunic and coteheardie

Headgear

Womens Fashion


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shirt, braies, and chausses The innermost layer of clothing were the braies or breeches, a

loose undergarment, usually made of linen, which was held upby a belt. Next came the shirt, which was generally also madeof linen, and which was considered an undergarment, like thebreeches.

Hose or chausses made out of wool were used to cover thelegs, and were generally brightly colored, and often had leathersoles, so that they did not have to be worn with shoes. Theshorter clothes of the second half of the century required theseto be a single garment like modern tights, whereas otherwise

they were two separate pieces covering the full length of eachleg. Hose were generally tied to the breech belt, or to thebreeches themselves, or to a double

A doublet was a buttoned jacket that was generally of hiplength. Similar garments were called cotehardie, pourpoint,

jaqueta or jubn. These garments were worn over the shirt andthe hose.


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Tunic and coteheardie A gown, tunic, or kirtle was usually worn over the shirt or doublet. As withother outer garments, it was generally made of wool. Over this, a man might

also wear an over-kirtle, cloak, or a hood. Servants and working men woretheir kirtles at various lengths, including as low as the knee or calf. Howeverthe trend during the century was for hem-lengths to shorten for all classes.

In the second half of the century, courtiers are often shown, if they have thefigure for it, wearing nothing over their closely tailored cotehardie. Thisfashion may well have derived from military clothing, where long loosegowns were naturally not worn in action. At this period, the most dignifiedfigures continue to wear long gownsalthough as the Royal Chamberlain,de Vaudetar was himself a person of very high rank. This abandonment ofthe gown to emphasize a tight top over the torso, with breeches or trousersbelow, was to become the distinctive feature of European men's fashion for

centuries to come. Men had carried purses up to this time because tunicsdid not provide pockets.


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Headgear and Accessories During this century, the chaperon made a transformation

from being a utilitarian hood with a small cape tobecoming a complicated and fashionable hat worn by thewealthy in town settings.

Belts were worn below waist at all times, and very low onthe hips with the tightly fitted fashions of the latter half ofthe century. Belt pouches or purses were used, and longdaggers, usually hanging diagonally to the front.

In armor, the century saw increases in the amount of

plate armor worn, and by the end of the century the fullsuit had been developed, although mixtures of chain mailand plate remained more common.


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Women The hair was kept back by a silkennet

The fashion of wearing false haircontinued in great favor

Women's clothing, the coats andsurcoats, often trailed on the ground

Hats consisted of a frame of

wirework covered over with stuffwhich was embroidered with lace


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1400 - 1500 Mens fashion


Outer tunics or doublets

Headgear

Women


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shirt, braies, and chausses The basic costume of men in this period consisted of a shirt, doublet, and hose, with

some sort of overgown. Linen shirts were worn next to the skin. Toward the end of the period, shirts (French

chemise, Italian camicia, Spanish camisa) began to be full through the body andsleeves with wide, low necklines; the sleeves were pulled through the slashings orpiecing of the doublet sleeves to make puffs, especially at the elbow and the back ofthe arm. As the cut of doublets revealed more fabric, wealthy men's shirts were oftendecorated with embroidery or applied braid.

Over the shirt was worn a doublet. From around the mid-century very tight-fittingdoublets, belted or tailored to be tight at the waist, giving in effect a short skirt below,were fashionable, at least for the young. Sleeves were generally full, even puffy, andwhen worn with a large chaperon, the look was extremely stylish, but very top-heavy.Very tight hose, and long pointed shoes or thigh-boots gave a long attenuatedappearance below the waist, and a chunky, solid one above. The doublet was often

elaborately pleated, especially at the back, the pleats being achieved by variousmeans.

Men of all classes wore short braies or breeches, a loose undergarment, usuallymade of linen, which was held up by a belt.

The hose exposed by short tops were, especially in Italy late in the century, oftenstrikingly patterned, parti-colo

red (different colors for each leg, or vertically divided), or embroidered. Hose werecut on the cross-grain or bias for stretch.


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Outer tunics or doublets The Houppelande, in Italy called the cioppa, is the characteristic overgarment of the

wealthy in the first half of the 15th century. It was essentially a gown with fullnessfalling from the shoulders in organ pleats and very full sleeves often reaching to thefloor with, at the start of the century, a high collar. The houppelande could be lined infur, and the hem and sleeves might be dagged or cut into scallops. It was initiallyoften worn belted, but later mostly hanging straight. The length of the garmentshortened from around the ankle to above the knee over this period. The floor-lengthsleeves were later wrist-length but very full, forming a bag or sack sleeve, or wereworn off the arm, hanging ornamentally behind.

A sideless overgown or tabard, called a giornea in Italy and a journade in France,was popular. It was usually pleated and was worn hanging loose or belted. Youngmen wore them short and older men wore them calf- or ankle-length.

The middle of the century in Burgundy saw what seems to have been the earliest

occurrence of the male fashion for dressing all in black, which was to reappear sostrongly in the "Spanish" style of the mid-16th17th century and again in the 19th20th centuries.

In the last decades of the century, a new style of gown appeared; this was of variouslengths, generally worn unbelted, and featured wide turned back revers and collar.


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Headgear Early in the century, the hood remained a common component of

dress for all classes, although it was frequently worn around theneck as a cowl or twisted into the fantastical shapes of the chaperon.Hats of various stylestall-crowned with small brims or no brims atall, or low-crowned with wider brims pulled to a point in frontbeganto compete with the draped chaperon, especially in Italy. A brimless

scarlet cap became nearly universal for young Florentines inparticular, and was widely worn by older men and those in othercities.

In mid-century, a bowl haircut with the hair shaved at the back of theneck was stylish. In Germany, and briefly in Venice, a wide shock offrizzy blond hair was often seen on images of lovers (and angels) in

the later part of the century

less often in portraits. By the end of thecentury, shoulder-length hair became fashionable, a trend thatwould continue into the early 16th century.


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Women Women wore long trains to their

dresses, but were shortened.

They began to uncover the neck andto wear necklaces

The head-dresses of womenconsisted of very large rolls,surmounted by a high conical bonnet


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